Cut the plywood first

With the first ripping cut, separate a 305 mm wide strip from the edge of the plywood sheet, as shown in the “Nutting Diagram”.

A longitudinal slide is made from this strip, so make notes and set the workpiece aside. Cut the rest of the sheet across, separating the workpiece 686 mm long for the cross slide and a few small parts. After marking the 533mm piece for the tenoner and high stop, set it aside.

Cut the cross slide blank lengthwise to a width of 502 mm. From the trim of this workpiece, cut out three strips 51 mm wide. Make ten pieces of these strips with a length of 51 mm, three with a length of 76 mm, four with 102 mm and two with 305 mm. Glue eight square pieces in pairs, aligning the edges to make four blocks 38 mm thick. In the same way, glue two pieces 102 mm long. When the glue dries, you can start working on the first fixture.

Half a sheet of plywood is enough to make them, and they will help maximize the capabilities of your machine at minimal cost.

Make precise cross cuts, choose grooves, saw parts of the same length, form tight tenon joints, file straight edges of boards ...

The list of operations that can be performed with these devices will be long. With 19mm plywood and the necessary fittings, you can make all five fixtures in a couple of weekends that will help improve and diversify your work, and you will not have to regret the time spent.

1. Sled for accurate and safe cross cuts

Take a blank for the cross slide and saw off a longitudinal strip 79 mm wide from the edge for the stop (see "Cutting diagram").

Fixing the limiter on the stop drilling machine, make 6 mm holes at a distance of 38 mm from the ends of the stop workpiece (Fig. 1). Saw off a strip 19 mm wide from the workpiece and make counterbores for flange nuts on its edge. Insert the flange nuts and re-glue both parts of the stop by driving the bolts through the holes to align the parts.

When the glue is dry, cut the tongue along the bottom edge of the stop (fig. 1). Take a blank for the sled, make sure one end is exactly at right angles to the edge, and press that end against the longitudinal stop of your machine, with the perpendicular edge facing you. (The fixture will be accurate if the rip fence of the machine is parallel to the saw blade.)

Glue the stop to the base of the sled flush with the trailing edge and fix (photo A).

From hardwood trim (we took maple), make a slider, fitting it to the width of the groove in saw table. Temporarily attach the slide with double-sided tape, aligning the slide with the longitudinal stop (photo B), then finally secure with screws. To allow adjustment or replacement, do not glue the slider.

First, file the previously made workpiece for this device to the specified length (Fig. 2). To make T-slots, cut two slots 6mm wide and 10mm deep. Install the T-slot cutter in the router table and raise it to a height of 10 mm. Then make a pass along each groove (photo D).

For clamps, take the two remaining plywood blocks with dimensions of 51 × 51 mm. Drill a 6mm hole in the center of each square and counter holes in two 102mm blocks (Figure 2). Then make second holes in long blocks with counterbores for flange nuts at a distance of 19 mm from the opposite end. Install the flange nuts and assemble the fixture as shown.

To file an uneven edge with a jig, place it close to the blade, leaving a minimum gap. Move the longitudinal (parallel) stop to the opposite edge of the device and fix it. Remove the slide and place the workpiece on them so that the edge protrudes beyond the edge of the base, fixing with clamps.

To avoid damaging the clamps, do not overtighten their screws. If required, use additional square plywood spacers to compensate for the thickness of the workpiece. To make a taper on a leg, mark the start and end points of the cut on it. Align these marks with the edge of the sled. If necessary, add a spacer between the presser and leg to prevent damage to the presser by the disc teeth. Raise the disc 3 mm above the top edge of the stem and file the constriction.

3 and 4. Additions to the longitudinal stop will help you make bevels, folds, spikes and much more

Take the workpiece for the high stop and tenoning device. Both devices have a similar design, so it is advisable to cut out their parts at the same time. Measure the longitudinal stop of your machine and determine the dimensions of the side supports and jumpers (Fig. 3). Saw them and vertical stops in accordance with the required dimensions. Drill holes and insert flange nuts into the vertical stops of both fixtures, as well as the high stop side support. Assemble the fixtures by holding the parts together with glue and screws (photo G).

For the back stop of the tenoning device, glue together two plywood strips measuring 51 x 305 mm. Brief advice! Make a few back stops from leftover pieces of plywood to quickly replace worn ones.

When the glue is dry, align the trailing edges of the back gauge and the vertical stop of the tenoner. Through the holes in the flange nuts, mark the centers with a 5mm drill and drill 7mm holes at these points. (Oversized holes allow you to adjust the position of the backgauge.) Attach the backgauge and make sure it is at a right angle to the saw table.

5. Safely grooving and sawing short parts with one tool

Make this simple L-shaped fixture from the two remaining 51x76mm blanks. It is useful for two cases. Firstly, it helps to cut grooves without a groove disc. To do this, adjust the distance from the screw head to the lower projection, which should be equal to the width of the groove, reduced by the thickness of the saw blade.

For example, to cut a groove 13 mm wide with a regular 3 mm thick disc, set the distance of 10 mm from the head of the screw to the end of the lug. Touching the end of the workpiece to the ledge, make the first cut, forming one wall of the groove. Then touch the head of the screw with the workpiece and form the opposite wall. Remove material between cuts in several additional passes.

Secondly, such a device allows you to file short parts of the same length. Attach it with a clamp to the longitudinal stop in front of the disk, touch the ledge with the end of the workpiece and saw off the part (bottom photo). Due to the wide gap between the blade and the longitudinal stop, sawn-off parts do not get stuck.

Additionally: Thai handwheels MB; flange nuts Mb; threaded stud Mb; screws Mbx 38 (semi-round head; screws M6xS0 and Mb’ 100 with hexagonal head; washers b mm; nuts Mb.

Cutting tools: twist drills with a diameter of 2.4, S, 6.7 and 8 mm; Forstner drill with a diameter of 19 mm.

1 PC. Buttons on Adjustable Bias Binder Presser Leg for…

This article looks at some simple but useful attachments that the craftsman made for his hand saw. At the end of the publication, for clarity, there is a video tutorial by the author of the “Do-it-yourself joinery” channel.

In this Chinese store expanse for carpenters. Browser plugin for saving in it: 7% -15% from purchases.

Used saw Boch GKS 165 CE. This is, first of all, the traditional regular parallel stop, which is included in the kit of almost any hand-held circular saw. The rest of the devices are various guides. This is a device for perpendicular cross cutting and banding of workpieces. This is a guide rail for cutting sheet material. Two bars - probably the most useful auxiliary devices at work - installation bars, which allow you to accurately place any guides, which are a straight edge rail, paint rules, any straight pipe or profile, or the factory edge of any sheet material. And finally, an adjustable guide for sawing at a given angle.
I made all these devices with my own hands a long time ago, when with the help of a hand-held circular saw and an electric planer I learned the basics of carpentry and carpentry during dacha construction. And they still serve faithfully to this day.

Especially useful for working with large-sized long-length material. That is, with long boards and large sheets that are inconvenient to process on a circular machine or miter saw. In the first part about the first three devices, as the most popular. The other two will be covered in the second part.

So, the simplest and most common device for a hand-held circular saw is a standard stop designed for longitudinal cutting of workpieces to a given width. But this stop has one drawback - to ensure safety, it is designed so as not to interfere with the operation of the protective casing of the saw. As a result, the stop does not allow cutting with a width less than a certain specified value. AT different models circular saws it is different. For a saw, this is 22 mm. That is, with the help of this stop it will not be possible to cut rails with a thickness of less than 22 mm. Somehow it took a quick saw a large number of rails, 10-15 mm thick for spacers between boards in a stack. Of the tools available was only a circular saw. It turned out that with the help of a standard stop it is impossible to do this. Therefore, he took the first bar with parallel edges that came to hand and temporarily attached it to the stop with self-tapping screws. Since then, I have been enjoying it!

With the help of a blank, you can saw off slats of any width, up to several millimeters. When working with such an upgraded stop, especially when sawing less than 15 millimeters, increased safety precautions should be observed. For small cutting widths protective cover rests against the bar and does not cover the rotating disk. Therefore, when handling a saw, in order not to get injured, you need to be extremely careful and attentive.
Using the device is simple: set the stop to the required cutting width, fix the workpiece, firmly press the bar to the edge of the board and drive the saw along the workpiece. Since such an emphasis can be installed almost close to the disk, replacing the overlay with a longer one, about 40-50 cm, the saw can be used as an impromptu jointer for quickly leveling the edge edged board. The result is quite acceptable!

The next fixture is a guide for making perpendicular, transverse cuts.

It consists of the actual guide rail and a stop perpendicular to it. The cut line is defined by the edge. The author of the idea has been using it for about 4-5 years, so the edge is heavily worked out, and soon we will have to make a new one. The device is made for a specific saw blade, for memory I wrote the parameters of my disk. On the other hand, a guide was made for a manual router, with a 12 mm cutter, but it is rarely used.
This device was made to perform a specific job, namely for the manufacture of carved columns for the terrace of his house. It was necessary to make many shallow perpendicular cuts on each side of the timber.
Further from 5 minutes. And the continuation in the second part.

How to make a homemade circular table with your own hands according to the drawings

A hand-held circular saw is a powerful tool with high productivity. One of the main advantages of a circular saw is that maneuverability becomes a disadvantage when large volumes of wood need to be cut. To simplify the process, you can easily assemble a table for a circular saw with your own hands.

Table device

small tabletop circular stand

The design of the table for a manual circular saw is so simple that most craftsmen make it without preliminary drawings and diagrams. This is a sturdy workbench that is made from wood and plywood. The most reliable table bases are made of metal. They are the heaviest and require the skills of a welder. Therefore, more often coasters are made from lumber waste. A circular saw is attached under the tabletop, the disk protrudes above it through a specially made slot. Timber is moved along the countertop and sawn with a rotating disc. For convenience and accuracy of work, the table is equipped with additional devices: angular and longitudinal emphasis.

The tabletop "eats" part of the working surface of the disc, the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the tabletop. Therefore, it is desirable to select a circular saw with a maximum disc diameter, and a thin but rigid tabletop.

If the saw has not yet been purchased, select models with high power (from 1200 W). They can cut through large volumes of wood. Holes will be drilled in the sole for fastening: the molded base may crack. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a tool with a stamped sole.

Selection of materials

fixing a circular saw under the table top

To make a good stand for a hand-held circular saw, you should remember carpentry skills, be patient and a small amount of materials:

• laminated plywood 15 - 20 mm;
• timber 50 x 50;
• board;
• switch;
• external socket;
• piece of electrical cable;
• PVA glue;
• wood varnish (if the plywood is not laminated);
• self-tapping screws.

The size of the countertop will depend on the area of ​​​​the workshop. However, on a table that is too small, it will be inconvenient to cut long pieces. If the entire part fits on the work surface, the cut is smoother and more accurate. The height of the legs is selected depending on the height of the master.

For a small workshop, a desktop design with approximate dimensions of 50 x 50 x 25 cm is convenient.

Table making process

1. From a sheet of laminated plywood, we cut out the countertop of the required size. The marking is applied to the lower plane using a metal ruler and a pencil. We cut the plywood with an electric jigsaw, mill the edges if necessary. If the plywood is not laminated, we clean the surface of the table with sandpaper.
2. We turn over and from the bottom we make markings for attaching a manual circular. To do this, remove the disc from the tool and set it with the sole in the desired place. We make marks on the table top and on the sole for fasteners and a groove for the saw blade. We drill holes for the bolts. They will be screwed from above, through the countertop and from below held by nuts. Therefore, from the side of the working surface, we countersink the holes, and grind the bolt heads so that they do not protrude.
3. If you plan to cut the material at different angles, the slot for the saw blade is made in the form of an inverted trapezoid. For even sawing, a regular groove is made. Before cutting the slot and holes for fasteners, attach a saw, correct the marks, and only then cut.
4. Mark with a pencil the location of the stiffeners. They are made from a board and installed from below 8 - 9 cm from the edge of the countertop. We will attach the legs of the table to the ribs. The ribs are fixed with self-tapping screws at intervals of 15 - 25 centimeters, additionally glued with PVA. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from above, through the countertop, the heads are completely recessed. The ribs are fastened together with long self-tapping screws.
5. The legs of the table are made of a bar or board, their length will be from 100 to 113 cm. The legs, slightly diverging downwards, will give greater stability. They are fixed on large bolts, twisted from the outside, fastened with nuts from the inside. Screeds from a bar will additionally strengthen the frame.
6. To adjust the height of the table, nuts are attached from below, into which M14 bolts are screwed.
7. Now you can fix the saw from below by passing the disc into the prepared slot.
8. We attach to inner part table electrical outlet, skip from it electrical wire and install the switch in a convenient place (on the outer part of the stiffener). The outlet will be powered by the switch. From it we stretch the wire to the nearest power source in the workshop. Using a construction tie, we fix the ON-OFF button on the body of the circular saw in a recessed position.

Let's start making auxiliary stops. For the longitudinal stop, you will need a #30 aluminum square tube and two screws with wing nuts.

1. We saw off a piece of pipe along the length of the countertop, cut holes for the screws 3 cm from the edge.
2. We cut out two clamps from pieces of plywood. The structure is ready.
3. For sawing across the table, we make a plywood sled. We align them relative to the edges of the table, press and move along the jagged circle. In the place where the circle passes in the sled, we cut a groove. Small parts can be stacked directly inside the sled and sawed.

Dust removal is organized from under the table, but most of At the same time, dust scatters from above, so it’s a good idea to supplement the device with an upper dust outlet.

Working with a circular saw is very dangerous, so care must be taken to protect your fingers. Cut out a pusher from a piece of board or furniture board.

Additions to the design

This design can be supplemented with a riving knife, which will be removed. Put on a disc protection on it, which cuts off the flow of chips flying directly into the carpenter.

Some masters, assembling a table according to unique drawings, completely remove the factory protective cover, and replace the factory platform with a home-made one. If you do not plan to cut at an angle, you can also remove all devices for adjusting the blade tilt. The saw is fixed directly on the new base, which allows you to gain a few millimeters of cutting depth.

Without an inner casing, it is easier to remove the blade, the saw does not clog with chips so much when working with wet boards. Dismantling requires extra time, but the engine resource is saved, overload is prevented.

The first video is about a stationary table for a circular saw, the second about a small portable design:

An example of drawings and improvised designs

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Do-it-yourself hand saw accessories.

These are simple and very useful gadgets for manual circular saw -

• parallel stop,
• device for perpendicular cross cutting and trimming of boards,
• guide bar for cutting sheet material,
• Alignment bars for precise placement of any guide and adjustable miter guide

With the help of these devices, your hand-held circular saw can successfully replace not only a circular machine and a miter saw, but also a jointer, and it will turn into a very convenient and accurate tool.

The first part of the video.

The second part of the video.

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There are a fairly large number of devices that you can make yourself for a circular saw.

How to make homemade accessories for a circular saw?

Materials and tools you will need:

1. Textolite or plywood.
2. Screws with countersunk heads.
3. Support bars.
4. Clamps.
5. Double-sided tape.
6. Hardboard.
7. Silicone spray.
8. Aluminum corners.
9. Paraffin.

Back to index

Guide manufacturing

A plywood sheet that has factory edges that are even in length can be used to make a guide rail. To do this, cut a strip from the sheet with a width equal to the maximum possible width of the circular saw. You need to add 20 cm to the resulting value. The length of this sheet should be slightly larger maximum length material.

First of all, you need to step back 6-7 cm from the factory edge on the prepared piece of plywood and cut off the strip. This strip will be the ruler along which the saw bed of this type will move. The part of the cut plywood sheet that remains will serve as the base on which the ruler will be fixed. The saw moves along the ruler during the cutting process.

It is important to take care that the height of the ruler is equal to the thickness of the saw bed.

The factory edge must necessarily be directed to the side where the cutting will be performed. The guide is glued to the base and additionally fastened with screws.

At the end, you need to remove the excess part of the base. This can be done using a circular saw. The made edge on the base will be the same lengthwise as the edge of the plywood sheet on the ruler.

This guide is very easy to work with. The base with a ruler is fixed on the workpiece, for example, on chipboard. You can fix using several options. In the first method, the cut off part of the sheet will be located on the side of the saw blade, in the second method - under the base on which the guide ruler is fixed.

Along the length of the sheet, 2 marks are made from the side that corresponds to the specified cutting methods, at a distance where the cut is located. The distance between marks should be maximum. In this case, it is important to take into account the thickness of the disk. The base of the ruler is installed using two marks and secured with clamps. The depth of the jaws of the clamp should ensure their installation so that at the end of the cut the saw can freely go beyond the sheet.

If the guide ruler is long, then it is not very convenient to make a cross cut. Therefore, it is advisable to make a structure that will have a shorter length. For example, for cabinet cabinets that have a width of 60 cm, you will need to make a guide 1 m long.

Such devices are only suitable for working with materials that have a large width and length. It is impossible to cut the board into even bars of this design.

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Designs for a circular saw that will help you make an accurate cut

If a saw blade of this type will leave torn fibers and chips at the edges of the cut, then you can try to make a design to obtain a zero gap. You will need to cut a piece of hardboard, which has a thickness of 6 mm. Next, you need to take the disk away, raise the protective cover and glue the cut piece to the base. This can be done using double sided tape. Next, the saw is turned on and the disc is slowly immersed in hardboard so that it is possible to get a cut with zero clearance.

On the basis obtained, it will be necessary to cut with a small feed.

You can also make a custom template. If you make a template, you can make accurate cuts anywhere. The design is intended for boards 15 cm wide, but it is easy to fit the fixture to any size or angle.

The design is made with a small allowance, after which the saw is pressed against the stop and the edge of the base is removed to the final length. The remote edge of the structure determines the line along which this type of saw will cut. A mark is placed on the board in the place where it needs to be sawn off. Next, you need to press the bottom stop of the product to the edge of the material and align the edge of the base with the cut mark. By passing the tool through the structure, it will be possible to cut boards with high accuracy.

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How to make a simple guide and cutting device with your own hands?

It makes sense to make a simple guide. In order to cut with a portable circular saw, you can purchase an expensive guide at the hardware store or make a few homemade ones in the workshop if you need to cut a large number of sheets. However, you should know that there is a simpler solution - to make a device from scraps that are not used.

In order to make a guide for a saw with your own hands, you need to choose the factory edge of a strip of plywood or durable fiberboard 25-30 cm wide. The strip is fixed along the cutting line so that the base of the tool moves along a flat edge. If a foam backing is used to protect the saw blade, cutouts must be made in it for the jaws of the clamps.

You can also make a cutting device for a saw of this type. A clean and straight cross cut can sometimes be difficult to achieve with a circular saw. It is almost impossible to drive the tool perfectly evenly, and pieces of material most often fly off, leaving behind chips and uneven edges. Therefore, it makes sense to try to make a cross cut structure from several pieces of wood and an aluminum angle.

It is necessary to assemble the base, for which, to the upper side of a piece of wooden board or plywood measuring 1.8x30x122 cm, glue and tighten with screws several parallel planks measuring 2.5x5 cm. Using screws with countersunk heads, you need to attach aluminum corners to the planks at an angle of 90 ° . You need to fasten at a distance that is equal to the width of the base of a saw of this type. The plate will need to be adjusted so that it can cut through all the planks and make a shallow cut at the base.

The device is fixed with clamps on a workbench, a blank is inserted under the aluminum guides and a cut is made. It may be that the saw will slide poorly along the guides. To solve this problem, you will need to use silicone spray or paraffin.

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How to make a template for the guide with your own hands?

Tire guide for a circular saw - it can be made from improvised means by the method of filing a flat sheet of chipboard.

When it comes to making long cuts with a saw like this, it will take a fair amount of time to make all the measurements necessary to set the guide in relation to the marking line exactly according to the width of the base of the structure.

In order to simplify this procedure, you need to cut a template from fiberboard, which is equal in width to the distance from the extreme part of the base of the tool to the inner edge of the saw blade. Next, the template is cut to the length of the base of the tool. In order to use the template, it is necessary to align its edge with the cut mark in the product, and attach a straight guide to the other side and secure it with a clamp.

It is difficult to imagine a carpentry workshop without a circular saw, since the most basic and common operation is the longitudinal sawing of workpieces. How to make a homemade circular saw will be discussed in this article.

Introduction

The machine consists of three main structural elements:

• base;
• sawing table;
• parallel stop.

The base and the sawing table itself are not very complicated structural elements. Their design is obvious and not so complicated. Therefore, in this article we will consider the most complex element - the parallel emphasis.

So, the parallel stop is the movable part of the machine, which is the guide for the workpiece and it is along it that the workpiece moves. Accordingly, the quality of the cut depends on the parallel stop, because if the stop is not parallel, then either the workpiece or the saw curve may jam.

In addition, the rip fence of a circular saw must be of a fairly rigid construction, as the artisan exerts force by pressing the workpiece against the fence, and if the fence is allowed to move, this will lead to non-parallelism with the consequences indicated above.

There are various designs of parallel stops, depending on the methods of its attachment to circular table. Here is a table with the characteristics of these options.

Rip fence design	Advantages and disadvantages
Two-point attachment (front and back)	Advantages:· Pretty rigid construction · Allows you to place the stop in any place of the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); Does not require the massiveness of the guide itself Flaw:· For fastening, the master needs to clamp one end in front of the machine, and also go around the machine around and fix the opposite end of the stop. This is very inconvenient when selecting the required position of the stop and is a significant drawback with frequent readjustment.
Single point attachment (front)	Advantages:· Less rigid design than when fixing the fence in two points · Allows you to place the fence in any place of the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); · To change the position of the stop, it is enough to fix it on one side of the machine, where the master is located during the sawing process. Flaw:· The design of the stop must be massive in order to provide the necessary rigidity of the structure.
Fastening in the groove of the circular table	Advantages:· Fast changeover. Flaw: Sophisticated design, Weakened design of the circular table, Fixed position from the line of the saw blade, Quite a complicated design for self-manufacturing, especially from wood (made only from metal).

In this article, we will analyze the option of creating a design of a parallel stop for a circular with one attachment point.

Preparation for work

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the necessary set of tools and materials that will be needed in the process.

The following tools will be used for work:

1. Circular saw or can be used.
2. Screwdriver.
3. Bulgarian (Angle grinder).
4. Hand tools: hammer, pencil, square.

In the process, you will also need the following materials:

1. Plywood.
2. Massive pine.
3. Steel tube with an inner diameter of 6-10 mm.
4. Steel rod with an outer diameter of 6-10 mm.
5. Two washers with an increased area and an inner diameter of 6-10 mm.
6. Self-tapping screws.
7. Joiner's glue.

The design of the stop of the circular machine

The whole structure consists of two main parts - longitudinal and transverse (meaning - relative to the plane of the saw blade). Each of these parts is rigidly connected to the other and is a complex structure that includes a set of parts.

The pressing force is large enough to ensure structural strength and securely fix the entire rip fence.

From a different angle.

The general composition of all parts is as follows:

• The base of the transverse part;

1. Longitudinal part

, 2 pcs.);
• The base of the longitudinal part;

1. clamp

• Cam handle

Making a circular

Preparation of blanks

A couple of things to note:

• planar longitudinal elements are made from, and not from solid pine, like other parts.

At 22 mm, we drill a hole in the end for the handle.

It is better to do this with drilling, but you can just fill it with a nail.

In the circular saw used for work, a home-made movable carriage is used from (or alternatively, you can make it “on hastily"false table), which is not very a pity to deform or spoil. We drive a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the hat.

As a result, we get an even cylindrical workpiece, which must be processed with a belt or eccentric grinder.

We make the handle - this is a cylinder with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 120-200 mm. Then we glue it into the eccentric.

Cross section of the guide

We proceed to the manufacture of the transverse part of the guide. It consists, as mentioned above, of the following details:

• The base of the transverse part;
• Upper transverse clamping bar (with oblique end);
• Lower transverse clamping bar (with oblique end);
• End (fixing) bar of the transverse part.

Upper cross clamp

Both clamping bars - upper and lower have one end not straight 90º, but inclined ("oblique") with an angle of 26.5º (to be precise, 63.5º). We have already observed these angles when sawing blanks.

The upper transverse clamping bar is used to move along the base and further fix the guide by pressing it against the lower transverse clamping bar. It is assembled from two blanks.

Both clamping bars are ready. It is necessary to check the smoothness of the move and remove all defects that prevent smooth sliding, in addition, it is necessary to check the tightness of the inclined edges; gaps and cracks should not be.

With a snug fit, the strength of the connection (fixing the guide) will be maximum.

Assembly of the transverse whole part

Longitudinal part of the guide

The entire longitudinal part consists of:

, 2 pcs.);
• The base of the longitudinal part.

This element is made from the fact that the surface is laminated and smoother - this reduces friction (improves sliding), as well as denser and stronger - more durable.

At the stage of forming the blanks, we have already sawed them to size, it remains only to ennoble the edges. This is done with edging tape.

The edging technology is simple (you can even glue it with an iron!) And understandable.

The base of the longitudinal part

And also additionally fix with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to observe the 90º angle between the longitudinal and vertical elements.

Assembly of the transverse and longitudinal parts.

Right here VERY!!! it is important to observe the angle of 90º, since the parallelism of the guide with the plane of the saw blade will depend on it.

Installation of the eccentric

Guide rail installation

It's time to fix our entire structure on a circular machine. To do this, you need to attach the bar of the transverse stop to the circular table. Fastening, as elsewhere, is carried out with glue and self-tapping screws.

... and we consider the work finished - the do-it-yourself circular saw is ready.

Video

The video on which this material was made.

When you have your own house or country cottage area, then a static circular saw will be an excellent assistant for you. With its help, you can quickly and efficiently carry out complex work on cutting various products. Such a tool can be purchased if the budget allows. Or you can create your own. It is also important to have necessary fixtures for him.

A circular saw. concept

A circular saw is a special tool that allows you to quickly and evenly cut wooden crafts, plywood, laminate and different boards.

There are household and professional models. The first can function with pauses. Their engine needs breaks of 15-20 minutes. They do not withstand significant loads.

The latter have more powerful engines. They can work intensively for a very long time. Therefore, they are usually used in production.

For use in personal households, household modifications are used. And keeping professional versions is unprofitable.

The level of work and their types are determined by the bed of this tool.

About bed elements

Devices for different. The main one is the bed. If the power of the saw is insignificant (no more than 1.2 kW), it is easy to build such a bed yourself. Its length is affected by the length of the material going to the cut.

The Bosch electric drill is suitable for the drive, its parameter is 0.85 kW. It is mounted under the stove with a special bracket.

The accuracy and evenness of the cut is better when the workpiece rests entirely on the table surface. And if the table has too large parameters, it will fill the entire working area. We need an average here. The height is selected according to your height, so that it is more convenient to work.

Materials and tools

Bakelite plywood with a minimum density of 5 cm is bought for the table.

In addition to it, you will need:

1. Board 5 x 10 cm.
2. Bars 5 x 5 cm.
3. Clamps.
4. A set of self-tapping screws.
5. Glue and varnishes.
6. Manual circular.
7. Electric jigsaw.
8. Manual cutter.
9. Drill.

Making a table

When you need to assemble fixtures, the first step is to create a bed. It consists of a base and a tabletop.

The design of the second element is influenced by the fastening structure of the working disk.

The process of creating a key attachment for a circular saw takes place in several stages. They are outlined below:

Creating legs

The assembly of a complete fixture for a circular saw is not limited to the indicated stages.

For the legs you will need a board 5 x 10 cm. Their height is 1-1.2 m.

The board is cut along the longitudinal vector. In this case, a slight angle is observed on one side.

The legs fit on the table top. During installation, they should be slightly apart.

They are attached outside the stiffeners. Fastening method - bolted. To strengthen their stability, you will need screeds. They need a 5 x 5 cm bar.

It is placed in the previously created groove from the bottom zone of the countertop. The sole is fixed with bolts. The disc is placed in the slot.

The table is varnished in 3-4 layers. This is a measure against moisture.

Turning on and off

The assembly of the main attachment for the circular saw is almost complete. It remains to establish the launch and shutdown of the tool. The simplest solution here is this - the start key is pulled together with a wire, and the saw is turned off by the mains wire.

A more complicated method - this key must be shunted. And the control buttons are displayed on the outer plane of the front stiffener.

The miter saw attachment is especially useful when you need good cross cuts.

Such a device can be made independently using the proposed technology:

1. The base is being assembled. Two parallel strips 2.5 x 5 cm are glued to the upper zone of plywood with parameters 1.8 x 30 x 122 cm. They are attracted with screws.
2. Corners are attached to them (their material is aluminum). Fixing method - countersunk head screws. Mounting angle - 90 degrees. Fastening occurs in parallel at a distance identical to the width of the saw base.
3. The tool is adjusted to cut the planks to a shallow depth at the base.
4. The device is fixed with clamps. The workpiece is placed under the corners. A cut is made.

If the saw does not go well, this area can be smeared with paraffin, but with a thin layer.

Long cut question

Creating a fixture for a hand-held circular saw that will help you make long cuts is relevant for many home craftsmen. It makes the job remarkably easy.

Its easy to make. DVP is taken. A sample is cut from this material. It is identical to the distance from the extreme side of the tool base to the extreme part of the disk from the inside.

When cutting, you need to rely on the length of the base of the tool.

The edge of the sample is aligned with the designation of the cut on the workpiece. A straight piece is applied to the second side. This is a guide. It is fixed with a clamp.

On the second marking, this operation is duplicated, but on the opposite side of the workpiece.

To create a template, it is best to use a router or a jigsaw.

If chips are obtained from the disc in work, you can not do without the following device for a hand-held circular saw, assembled by yourself.

Technology:

1. The hardboard element is cut out. Its density is 6 mm. When cutting, you need to focus on the width of the base of the tool.
2. The disk is removed. The protective cover is raised. The result of step 1 is attached to the base with double-sided tape. After that, the saw starts. The disc fits smoothly into the hardboard. It turns out zero clearance in work.

Sawing should be done with a slight return on the created base.

tenoning device

The tenoning device for a circular saw increases the efficiency and accuracy of the production of tenon-and-groove joints. They are involved in the assembly of various carpentry products: furniture, doors, frames, frames, etc.

With this device:

1. Workpieces are located without distortions.
2. Operations are repeated scrupulously.
3. The end result is of high quality.

Such a device can be purchased or made on your own. Experts recommend the first option. This is a full guarantee of achieving excellent results.

Often buy these models: Felisatti FTJ and Festool VS 600 GE.

This is a reliable and proven technique.

sharpening question

The circular saw should be sharpened when the following symptoms appear:

1. It becomes harder to work with her.
2. It leaves black marks on the material.
3. There is a foul odor and smoke.

Ideally, it should be sharpened on a professional machine. If not, you will need a tool for sharpening circular saws.

Necessary set for work:

1. Vice.
2. File with a flat functional side.
3. Bar.

You should work with gloves.

Sharpening steps:

1. Hard drive fixation. It is removed from the saw and fastened in a vise. In this case, wooden dies are used. You can leave it in the saw, but stick a bar between its teeth. The bar rests on some surface.
2. The initial clove is marked.
3. The back of the tooth is processed with a file. They need to swipe it several times. The effort is small. Each tooth is sharpened in turn. At the same time, the movements are uniform, the number of file passes is the same.
4. The anterior parts of the teeth are being processed. The principle is the same.

The points of the teeth should be perpendicular to the surface of the disc.

Then all the teeth are inspected for defects. Edges must not be shiny. If so, they are smoothly filed.

After that, the disk is checked in the case. It is placed in a saw. She turns on. A test block is used. If the saw is light, smooth and quiet, then the sharpening is of high quality.

Otherwise, you need to check the height of the teeth. To align them, you need to bring the marker to the working edge. Then the disk must go through the entire revolution in the opposite direction from rotation. All teeth are marked. On it you can align their height. The highest teeth are carefully processed with a file.

Conclusion

Circular saw - very useful tool in the economy. But it becomes even more effective if it is provided with the necessary devices.