Purple vanda. Orchid Vanda: features of planting, reproduction and care. How to grow roots on a Vanda orchid

Attention: Wanda is an unusually beautiful epiphytic plant belonging to the genus Orchid, considered the queen of orchids. She has bright big flowers and a whole bunch of powerful roots. In nature, it grows on trees, it can grow on rocks, but not on land.

The evergreen Vanda orchid does not have a distinct dormant period., and therefore, not so long ago, this species began to land at home, but he immediately fell in love, because he blooms several times a year, however, requires care.

Vandas are monopodial orchids. They do not naturally produce pseudobulbs, as they grow in height rather than expanding at the same time in width. The stem reaches medium length, and the leaves that grow old simply die off gradually.

Vanda has a cylindrical stem that is densely covered with lap or sluggish bright green leathery leaves. The roots are aerial, greenish-gray in color, usually strongly developed. Inflorescences of Vanda are somewhat flowered and multicolored. It all depends on the species, as well as on the plant individually. They can be either oblique or straight, axillary or cruciform.

Peduncles grow from the sinuses that are between the leaves. They usually carry 2 to 15 flowers. According to the rules, at the same time, the color can reach a maximum of 1 to 4 peduncles. This group of orchids is distinguished by the peculiarity of flower development - from the very beginning, as the flowers bloom, they are pale, and their size is rather small, but do not worry, after 2-3 days all the flowers will acquire a healthy rich color and become larger.

The size of the flowers is very different, for some species it can reach 15 cm in diameter. The range of colors is quite large: from purple and blue to yellow or red. They can also be pink, blue, brown, or white. Flowers can be monochrome or colorful. As for the aroma, not all species have it, but, nevertheless, some of them have wonderful aromas, it all depends on the species.

History of occurrence

Wanda was officially registered in 1795 by the Englishman William Jones., first described this orchid during a trip to Asia. In translation, "Wanda" means "whisper of the wind", by the way, earlier its leaves were used for medicinal purposes from bronchitis.

What is the difference from other types?

In addition to its amazing exotic beauty, Vanda is distinguished by the presence of long, powerful, intertwined, gray-green hanging roots. Their surface is a porous structure and is able to absorb moisture not only from grass and tree trunks, but also from the atmosphere.

sub-variety

As for the question of which orchids are Vandas, then you will find exactly what you like.

blue

An orchid with an upright stem and numerous roots. The plant itself can reach 1 meter in height. Dense leaves are arranged in two rows. The length of the stem is 50-60 cm, the brush is multicolored. Blue Vanda has large flowers known for their fragrance., their average size is 10 cm in diameter. The color is lavender blue, which often has a darker mesh pattern.

White (Rhynchostylis coelestis white)

Highly sought after because of its color. This species is characterized by its compactness, since it is not so large, its leaves take up to 35 cm "in scope". However, this species is completely unpretentious. Compared to other Vandas, there is not much sun. At the end of the peduncle there is a brush of flowers, small in size, which compensate for this by their number (there are many of them), as well as by the presence of a pleasant aroma.

Sandera (Vanda sanderiana)

This beautiful large orchid boasts long, elastic leaves up to 40 cm long. Flowers are located at the end of the stem, forming an erect inflorescence, the number of which usually reaches 10 pieces. The color of the flowers is pink, and they have a white frame and a yellowish-red lip. Their size is 10-12 cm (diameter).

Valkovaya

This is an epiphytic large orchid that has a highly branched long stem with numerous roots. The leaves of this species are waxy, from which the name of the species actually appears. Their length is 15-20 cm, and their diameter is 0.5 cm. This Vanda is also characterized by a long peduncle, which usually has 3 to 6 large flowers, their color is usually pink or red.

Bloom

When and how does it happen?

There is no clearly defined rest period for Wanda and it can bloom all year round., especially during the spring and summer period, since it is a long day of light at that time. On average, flowering lasts 6-8 weeks, but sometimes it can last up to three months. The Wanda flower is an amazing creation of nature, and if you see it once, you will want to see it again.

Care before and after flowering

By following all the agrotechnical requirements for flower care, you can expect Vanda to bloom annually and even more than once. If you're worried that the Vanda isn't blooming, it might not be getting enough light, or the difference between day and night temperatures is less than eight degrees, or you might be overfeeding the orchid with nitrogen.

When the Vanda orchid has finished blooming, cut off the flower stalks and keep the roots less moist., once a week, soak the roots in a container of warm water. Spraying for a while also needs to be stopped. If you have the opportunity, take Wanda out into the garden, hang her from a tree, or place her on a balcony or terrace where the conditions are right, and take care of her as before flowering. Fresh air will certainly benefit her.

What to do if the bud does not open?

How to make your Wanda bloom? If she does not want to bloom for a long time, this means that she does not like something, there may be little light or the difference in temperature between day and night does not persist, there is only one way to make this bloom - you need to provide Venda comfortable conditions, and she will thank you.

Step by step instructions for care and maintenance

As already mentioned, Vanda is a very picky plant.. Therefore, taking care of them requires knowledge, attention and a little experience.

Step by step, we will tell you all the features of caring for a Vanda orchid - what temperature is best for these flowers, what lighting is best for them, how to water Vanda and how to make her bloom longer and longer. In what substrate and pot is it better to transplant it.

Selecting a landing site

The best place to plant a Vanda orchid is, of course, a greenhouse or a mini-greenhouse, but you can also plant this exotic orchid in a window in your apartment and only care for where there is plenty of space.

Soil and pot preparation

If you decide to plant the plant in a substrate, then it must be very light and breathable., it may include:

• large pine bark;
• coarse sand;
• perlite;
• charcoal.

Advice: In general, you can do without a substrate - just hang Wanda in a basket or in a special pot - similar to a sieve due to the large number of holes.

Temperature

It is enough that the temperature regime is within 25 degrees, if it is a little higher, do not be afraid, the main thing is that at night it does not fall below 12 degrees. And you need to remember that Wanda can't stand drafts.

Humidity

The recommended humidity for this flower is 60-80% and the humidity index should be slightly lower during the day than at night. To increase the level of humidity, it is forbidden to use room spraying or placing the pot on a pallet with wet expanded clay.

Lighting

In winter, it is best for Wanda to be on the south window., of course, there will not be enough natural light, so you need to organize additional lighting, and in the summer you will need to shade it - protect it from burns or rearrange it to the west window.

Watering

In autumn and winter, it should be watered once a week (if the days are sunny) or once every ten days (on cloudy days). In the summer, water is watered about once every 3-4 days, soaking the roots in a bath (20 minutes) or under a warm shower.

All water procedures should be done only in the morning, and the orchid should be dried in the bathroom, it should be placed in its place without any trace of water. Water for watering orchids should be at room temperature.

top dressing

Wanda needs a lot of nutrients. Therefore, it is necessary to feed it once a week with mineral fertilizer (only for orchids).

Transfer

Before transplanting an orchid, you need to carefully inspect the root system and remove its rotten parts. Transplanting is done when there are many new roots and the container it is placed in becomes too small.

reproduction

Vandu, despite all its exoticism, you can also try to propagate at home. Over time, roots appear in the axils of the leaves of these orchids, it will be necessary to divide the bush - cut the upper part along with the roots. Immediately treat the cut with charcoal, let it dry a little and put it in a special substrate for orchids.

Care must be taken very carefully, you can only water with a sprayer once a week, and the normal watering regimen is introduced only when our plant begins to grow.

Diseases and pests

Most often, Wandas become infected with fusarium. This is a fungal disease, the infection of which occurs when the roots and leaves are damaged.

The disease enters the active phase in case of improper care, primarily with watering, in which the green part of the orchid is exposed to moisture, as well as poor lighting. The most vulnerable plants in autumn and winter with low temperatures and lack of light.

For prevention, it is necessary to remove dry, severely damaged and darkened roots., severely damaged leaves. If a cut appears on the green part of the plant, it should be sprinkled with crushed coal and treated with herbs.

Important: If the leaves start to turn yellow and brown at the base and fall off one by one, the plant is sick. At the same time, the damaged part of the stem must be immediately removed, the incision must be made 6-7 cm above the upper affected leaf.

The crown with the rest of the stem can be saved if it is able to form roots, i.e. the lower part of the stem above the cut is already sufficiently developed and strengthened. The incision is sprinkled with coal, treated with green and fungicides. and protect from getting wet.

Conclusion

Orchids are now incredibly popular and in demand, everyone loves them! Designers constantly use them in floral decorations, flower growers gradually bring out the most exotic species and look for new forms, manufacturers work tirelessly, constantly creating new hybrids. Orchids beautifully decorate and color our whole life, and not just our apartments. Now you know everything about these flowers!

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The Vanda orchid has recently become one of the most popular home grown epiphytes.

By type of growth, the Vanda orchid is a monopodial orchid: it has one vertically growing stem and one apical growth point. The plant surprises with numerous powerful, well-developed aerial roots that can grow to a length of about 1 m. The Vanda orchid is grown in glass vases, flasks, hanging baskets - a bunch of bare roots is an interesting sight.

The stem of this orchid is cylindrical in shape, reaches a height of just over 1 m, it is completely covered with leaves located in the same plane. The leaf plates are cylindrical (rolled) or belt-like, leathery, 0.7-1 m long, 25-30 cm wide, they are green, there may be a bluish tint. With proper care, the Wanda orchid grows one leaf for 1.5-2 months.

When does the Vanda orchid bloom?

Depending on the variety, the Vanda orchid blooms in the autumn or winter months.

Flower buds are laid in the axils of the leaves, the flower-bearing stem can be straight or drooping, the length is 30-60 cm. The racemose inflorescence bears 2-15 flowers up to 10 cm in diameter. , but also acquiring a brighter shade. Blue, red-violet or pinkish hue lays down in a mosaic pattern, which gives originality and special appeal.

The lifespan of the Vanda orchid is about 30 years. It is notable for the fact that it does not have a dormant period, the growth rate of leaves stops only during flowering.

The plant was discovered and described by William Johnson in 1795 while traveling in India. The natural habitat of the Vanda orchid is India, China, Thailand. There are about 53 plant species that have served as the basis for breeding many varieties. Representatives of the genus Wanda successfully interbreed with ascocentrums (they have a more compact size), many interspecific hybrids have been bred, and work is underway to create a miniature orchid.

Compared to other epiphytes, the Vanda orchid is less whimsical to care for.

Ways to grow Vanda orchids

The plant leads an epiphytic lifestyle, it can be grown in three ways:

With the use of the substrate - growing in a pot

Take a plastic pot that is large enough so that the roots are not crowded. It is desirable that the container is transparent. Make plenty of holes for ventilation. The substrate for growing orchids can be purchased at a flower shop or you can make your own. To do this, take 2 parts of pine bark, 1 part of perlite and foam plastic crumbs, ½ part of peat, add pieces of charcoal.

Growing a Vanda Orchid in a Glass Vase

You will need a stable, but not too high vase or flask. Only the rhizome should fit in the container, and the green part should be outside (the plant needs bright lighting, and glass delays the access of sunlight, plus there is a risk of leaf rotting). The shape of the vase can be varied: oblong, spherical, goblet, etc. It looks very impressive, the Vanda orchid in a glass vessel is a chic gift idea.

Watering Wanda in a glass vase is very simple: carefully pour water along the walls so that the roots are in the water, and after half an hour gently tilt the vase and drain all the water, be sure to make sure that no moisture remains. In summer, in the heat, it is watered like this 2 times a week; on cool days, one watering per week is enough.

This method of growing has its drawbacks: the glass gradually becomes cloudy and dirty, the vase needs to be constantly washed, it is inconvenient to take out the orchid, especially if the roots are tightly “grown” to the wall of the vase and are damaged when trying to remove them.

Tricks of growing a Vanda orchid in a glass vase

The Vanda orchid grown in a glass vase is a stylish interior decoration.

Take care of the comfort of the plant:

• choose a container with a wide base;
• the plant will live longer if the green part is outside the glass container;
• when growing in a glass container, the substrate is not needed;
• keep the roots dry in a container. To water or feed the plant, it is better to take out the orchid, immerse it in ordinary water or a fertilizer solution, let the water drain well and dry the roots, then return it to the vase. This method is better because the vase stays clean and is easier to clean than if you water the plant in the vase and then drain the water.

Growing Vanda orchids in hanging baskets with a bare root system

You can grow vanda in hanging baskets or pots with large side holes through which the roots will freely penetrate outside. Water such plants under a warm shower, letting them dry and carefully blotting the excess water in the axils of the leaves. You can replace watering with conventional spraying from a spray bottle. On hot days, you need to spray daily, on cool days - once every 2-4 days.

Growing conditions for Vanda orchids

Orchid Wanda is light and heat-loving, the most suitable place for its placement will be windows of east and west orientation.

Air temperature

During the spring-summer period, maintain the air temperature at 22-25 ° C (tolerates the plant and the temperature rises to + 28 ° C). To stimulate flowering at night, lower the air temperature by about 10 ° C. In winter, dry content will be required with an air temperature of 14-16 ° C. With irreproachable observance of the rules of care (watering, humidification, airing), the Vanda orchid grows and develops beautifully. When airing, do not allow a draft, for the summer season you can move it to fresh air (to a balcony, garden, gazebo).

Lighting

The plant is demanding: all year round the daylight hours should be 12 hours a day. Lighting must be diffused, direct sunlight leaves burns on the leaf plates. In the autumn-winter period, additional artificial lighting will be required. Use regular fluorescent lamps.

The level of illumination is indicated by the size and shade of the leaves. They should be normally green, almost the same size. If the shade of the leaf plates is dark green - the lighting is not enough, if it is pale green, yellowish - the lighting is intense. If the last pair of leaves grows longer than the penultimate one, the lighting level needs to be increased, and when the opposite is true (the penultimate pair is longer), the lighting level should be reduced.

How to care for a Vanda orchid

Orchid Vanda is sensitive to water conditions. During the period of active growth (spring-summer), the substrate should be constantly in a slightly damp state. In winter, water sparingly, when kept cold, watering is minimal (water when the substrate is completely dry).

Alternate between wet and dry cycles to avoid causing root rot. In summer, with extreme heat, water almost daily, in winter with a warm content - every 2 days (it is better to water before lunch).

There are several ways to water Vanda orchids:

A warm shower is the most suitable option for Wanda. Place the plant in a bath, pour very warm water from the shower until the roots turn green. Then leave the plant for 30 minutes to let the water drain. After an hour, wipe the sheet plates with a soft cloth.

Immersion - a pot with a plant is placed in a container filled with water for 30 seconds. Let the liquid drain. Thus, only completely healthy plants are watered.

Soaking - Orchid roots are immersed in a container of water and left to "drink" from half an hour to several hours. So water 2 times a week.

Watering can - bring water, moving along the edge of the pot. Pour water until it begins to show in the pan, drain excess water.

The optimal indicator of air humidity when growing Wanda is 70%. Spray the aerial roots of the plant regularly, do not allow water to enter the leaf axils.

An interesting video about caring for Vanda orchids:

How to feed Wanda

Orchid Wanda loves top dressing very much, and you need to feed it throughout the active growing season. Use special formulations for orchids, but dilute them more strongly with water, 2-3 times the recommended dose. You can feed by mixing fertilizer into the water for irrigation or spraying the leaves with a solution. Feed every week while the orchid's roots are growing. During the dormant period, feeding is stopped.

Lack of nutrients leads to weakness. But do not be too zealous with top dressing: the plant will become elongated, the top will soften, will bend under the weight of the inflorescences. Pay attention to young leaves: on their surface there is a strip of a pale green hue, normally its width is centimeter. If the strip is narrower - there is not enough fertilizer, if it is wider (up to 2 cm) - there is an excess of nutrients.

How and how to feed orchids for abundant flowering, look at the video:

A simple way to feed with ashes will allow you to always get beautiful flowering of your favorite orchids.

As it turned out, ash has become an effective remedy against such malicious pests as thrips.

When to transplant a Vanda orchid

It is carried out immediately after the purchase, and also as needed, when the roots no longer fit in the pot or the growth rate of the Orchid slows down. In general, transplantation has to be carried out 1 time in 3-4 years.

Cases of emergency transplant:

• The substrate was caked (poorly passes air and water, dries out for a long time);
• The plant was originally planted in an unsuitable substrate;
• The roots are too deep into the substrate;
• Decay of the root system.

Reproduction of the Wanda orchid by children

Seed propagation of the Vanda orchid is used mainly by breeders.

In home floriculture, Wanda is propagated vegetatively.

At the base of the stem are formed. Also, lateral processes appear in the axils of the leaves. They can be separated when they reach a height of at least 5 cm and have at least one root. Carefully separate the sprout, treat the cut site with a fungicide. For rooting, plant in a small pot with a universal substrate for growing orchids, cover with a jar or a cut plastic bottle on top - it is important to maintain air humidity of at least 85%. After 14-20 days, gradually accustom to room conditions. When the plant reaches a height of 20 cm, it can be transplanted into a container for permanent growth.

When the orchid becomes very long (tall), its top can be used for rooting. Cut off the top, treat with a growth stimulator and plant in the soil for rooting to create a greenhouse effect.

Over time, the lower part will also give "babies".

Diseases and pests of Vanda orchids

The Vanda orchid is susceptible to various diseases, the causes and signs of damage, the methods of control are described below.

Fungal lesions

From fungal (as in the photo above), the treatment of plants with Physan according to the instructions helps well.

Spotting - spots similar to warts form on the underside of the leaf plates. This happens from waterlogging of the soil or high humidity.

Fusarium - black rounded spots appear at the base of the leaves. The reason is too warm and humid environment.

How to treat spots on a Vanda orchid

Treat the leaves and roots with a fungicide, provide shade, do not spray the orchid on the leaves, reduce air humidity, avoid too high and too low temperatures (preferably maintain 24 ° C).

Bacterial rot

From waterlogging of the substrate (especially in combination with low air temperature), rotting of the root system and stem occurs. The roots of the plant soften and turn black, the stem turns yellow, without intervention the plant will die. Perform an emergency transplant: cut off the affected areas, treat the entire plant and cuts with a fungicide (phytosporin, Bordeaux mixture), replace the substrate with a new one, also disinfect the container, keep the orchid in shade until it shows signs of growth. Treatment with an antibiotic helps well against bacterial rot (1 g of tetracycline is dissolved per liter of water).

In extreme cases, you have to cut off the rhizome completely. It takes some effort to grow the root system again. Be sure to treat the cut with crushed charcoal. An ideal option for resuscitation is placement in a basket made of natural raw materials with a large weave. Maintain a high level of humidity, irrigate by spraying. Under these conditions, young roots will appear after 7-10 days.

Viral lesions

Especially dangerous with various viruses. Viruses do not spread as quickly as bacterial or fungal rots, but they are almost impossible to cure. If you decide, it is better to get rid of the diseased plant so as not to infect all orchids. The virus can be kept dormant: cut off all affected parts, treat the orchid with a fungicide. Avoid high temperatures and excessive humidity. Remember that in the warm season, viruses are most aggressive.

How to treat an orchid from thrips and a tick video:

Among pests, trouble can be delivered by:

1. thrips

Light dots and strokes appear on the surface of the leaf plates, over time they become covered with a whitish coating, then turn brown and die. Thrips and flowers are affected: they become stained and deformed.

1. Shchitovki

Yellowish dots appear on the leaves and stem, which eventually take on the appearance of warty growths. Scale insects suck the juices from the plant, as a result of which the orchid dries up.

1. Mealybug

Small insects gather on the reverse side of the leaf, they can be recognized by the presence of a coating similar to cotton rolls. The growth rate of the orchid slows down, the leaf plates die off.

1. spider mite

How to deal with mealybug video:

The pest infects the plant when the air is dry in the room. On the plant you can find thin whitish cobwebs. The pest settles on the reverse side of the leaf plates. Leaf blades turn yellow and dry out.

If any of the pests are found, they must be removed mechanically. To do this, moisten a cotton pad with soapy water and wipe the leaf plates on both sides, then treat with an insecticidal preparation.

Vanda Orchid Varieties

Among the variety of species and varieties in room conditions, only a few are grown. Let's consider the best of them.

Vanda blue Vanda coerulea

Discovered in 1837 in the tropics at an altitude of 1000 m above sea level. The length of a strong erect stem is 0.8-1 m, often the base of the stem is bare. The leaf plates are hard, dark green in color, 12-18 cm long, about 3 cm wide. The leaves are arranged oppositely. Lateral inflorescences 30-60 cm long bear 14-20 large corollas. The color scheme is lavender blue, the shade can be lighter or darker. Most often, the first buds bloom in August, the flowering period ends in December-November.

Vanda sanderiana Vanda sanderiana

Native to warm, rainy tropics. The cystic inflorescence consists of flowers with a diameter of 10-15 cm. The sepals are greenish-yellow in color, chestnut veins may be present. The color of the petals is white, pinkish, yellow.

Vanda tricolor Vanda tricolor

The plant is able to reach a height of 1.5 m. The flower-bearing stem is short, carries about 10 corollas. Petals and calyx are egg-shaped with wavy edges, the nail is wide. The lip is three-lobed: the central lobe is larger, in the shape of a guitar, has a pink or purple hue, the rest of the lobes are spotted.

Wanda Rothschild Vanda rothschildiana

Less demanding in care. The color scheme of the inflorescences includes pinkish and blue shades. The flowering period falls on March-October.

Vanda valkovata Vanda teres

Oval-shaped petals with wavy edges. Coloring in soft colors. A prerequisite for care is regular ventilation.

Wanda: description

Vandas are found in the evergreen forests of Southeast Asia, South China, India, Australia, and South America. In nature, these epiphytes are attached to trees with long powerful aerial roots. In some species, for example, vanda tricolor, the flowers exude a pleasant aroma. But the most famous of the vandas is blue (Vanda coerulea), she became the parent of many hybrids. The best conditions for flowering occur in spring and summer, when the light intensity increases. Vandas bloom for 1-2 months. Garden centers usually sell not pure species (there are more than 50 of them), but interspecific, intergeneric hybrids and varieties. As a rule, they are already adapted to growing indoors. common Ascocenda (Ascocenda, or Askda), that is, a hybrid between vanda And ascocentrum (Vanda x Ascocentrum). Meet Isaoara- hybrid with parents from four different genera (Aerides x Ascocentrum x Phalaenopsis x Vanda). Wands are usually more expensive than others. This is due to the fact that they are growing slowly, and the cost of their production is higher than, for example,.

Buying a vanda

The first thing you need to pay attention to is where the vanda was brought from. The information must be on the label. If straight from home (mostly they are imported from Thailand), then the plant will acclimatize for a long time. If the vanda was grown for 2-3 years in European countries, then it will quickly adapt to our conditions. Also, the name should be written on the label (care for different varieties or hybrids may differ). You most likely will not find pure species, since their trade and export from their countries of growth is prohibited by law. Beginners should start with Ascocend. They are more compact thanks to one of the parents (Ascocentrum) and with proper care form dense inflorescences. Examine the plant. The leaves should be dense and green, without spots. Soft, wrinkled leaves folded along the central vein indicate that the plant is overdried. If there are no leaves on the shoot in the lower quarter, this is normal. If the naked half of the shoot is or more, then this specimen is better set aside - it will be more difficult for him to cope with stress. The absence of a large ball of roots is not a reason to refuse a purchase. The main thing is that they are elastic, not broken off, have a greenish or slightly silvery tint. Black spots indicate the presence of rot. It is better to buy plants in the warm season, so that when transporting home to avoid hypothermia.

Growing vanda

Wandas love rooms with good air circulation. There are several options for keeping these plants. The first is in a glass vase. The price of vanda in a vase is higher, but the purchase justifies itself: the plant does not require a transplant. You can do without a transplant when the plant is bought in a small plastic basket with a hook for hanging. If you are embarrassed by the open root system and the apartment is too dry, you can plant the plant in a basket of bamboo sticks, in clay or plastic pots with numerous holes on the sides. In both cases, pine bark of a fraction of 2-4 cm is used as a substrate. You can add a little charcoal. When planting a plant in a pot, the roots should not be cut, no matter how long they are. Gently roll them into a ring and place them in. Unlike phalaenopsis, vandas can do just fine without a substrate.

Wanda care

Temperature regime. Wanda is thermophilic, so the daytime temperature in the room should be at least +20 ... +22 °С, optimally +26 °С. At night +17...+19 °С. Such a difference stimulates flowering. Wanda can also withstand heat above +30 ° C, but only if there is a shade, ventilation increases and the humidity of the room increases. In winter, the night temperature should not fall below +14 ... +15 ° С. However vanda blue can withstand for some time up to +10 ° C, the main thing is that at this time it should not be wet.

Lighting. Wandas are photophilous, so the best option for keeping them is, then it will not be needed in winter. In spring and summer at noon, you will even have to shade the plants so that they do not get burned. If the apartment has only northern windows, then in winter the vandas are illuminated with phytolamps or ordinary fluorescent lamps (in total, lighting should be about 12 hours). Species with cylindrical leaves, slightly expanded at the top, require more light than flat-leaved ones. With a lack of lighting, vandas may not bloom. Poor lighting reduces the immunity of the plant, which can lead to decay.

Watering. Frequent during growth, but roots must be allowed to dry out between waterings or sprays. The frequency of watering depends on the method of maintenance. If the plant is in a high glass vase, it is watered less often, since moisture evaporates more slowly inside the vessel. Filtered water is used so that when the drops dry on the leaves, there are no white stains from salts. In order not to injure the roots and leaves, you should not remove the plant from the vase without urgent need. You can water along the wall, tilting the vase a little to one side so that water does not fall on the flowers. All the roots and even part of the shoot with leaves should be in the water. After 20 minutes, the water is poured out of the vase. Plants planted in a bark substrate, as well as specimens kept with a bare root system, are kept in the shower until the roots acquire a greenish tint, 2 times a week from spring to autumn and 1 time per week in winter. The water temperature should be several degrees above room temperature.

. Must be at least 70%. In an apartment environment, this is difficult to achieve. Can be installed. In extreme cases, you can do with additional spraying of the leaves. In this case, the drops should not fall on the roots. Wandas are responsive to daily spraying (in winter - no more than three times a week). You can not spray the vanda in the evening - she does not have time to dry before the night temperature drops.

Top dressing. Vandas are real "gluttons", so that they bloom regularly, they need to be fed with any complex fertilizer for orchids. In summer, it is better to add it every other time when watering, and reduce the concentration to a quarter of that indicated on the package. Also, fertilizer can be added to the water when spraying (in the same or slightly lower dosage). Top dressing on the sheet alternate with root.

Rest period. At home, vandas grow all year round, but in our conditions this is difficult to achieve. As soon as daylight hours are reduced in late autumn, growth slows down or stops altogether. The length of the upper leaves does not increase, the tips of the roots cease to stretch and become covered with a grayish skin. To prevent this from happening, you need to install additional lighting. If this is not possible, then the "sleeping" vanda should be watered less often so as not to provoke decay.

Moving to the cottage. In order not to burden relatives or friends with watering and feeding vandas, orchids can. Wandas love to take air and sunbaths, but they do not tolerate drafts. Therefore, in the garden they choose a place protected from the wind, ideally - a patio. On hot days, you should protect the plant from direct scorching sunlight by hanging it in a light shade on a tree branch in the garden. If the plant is contained in a glass vase, then you should not put it in the garden on the soil. There is a high probability that at night they will get to the succulent leaves of the orchid.

Wanda: breeding

Since vandas have a monopodial growth pattern, side shoots rarely appear. Old specimens do not look very aesthetically pleasing: the shoot is long - 1 m or more, and the lower leaves turn yellow and fall over time. You can cut off the upper part of the plant with aerial roots, process the cut with crushed coal or sulfur and plant it in the bark of a large fraction or place it in a new glass vase. At first, the plant is not watered, but only periodically sprayed. On the remaining "headless" shoot, lateral shoots will soon appear. Do not separate them from the mother plant until young roots appear on them. In cut side shoots, the cut is also treated with sulfur or crushed coal. New plants are planted in a well-drained bark substrate with the addition of sphagnum moss. Water only after a few days. It is advisable to place a pot with a plant in a transparent container or greenhouse, inside which there will be constant high humidity. Periodically, you need to open the container so that fresh air enters it. Within one to two months, watering should be rare. As soon as new leaves begin to appear, they begin to care for the young plant like an adult. If you do not want to wait until the plant reaches a large size, then simply remove the apical bud. From the dormant buds located in the axils of the leaves, new shoots will begin to grow, which can be cut.

Wanda: problems and solutions

• If on a plant roots begin to dry, then, most likely, the air in the room is dry. Alternating watering by completely immersing the roots in water and spraying will solve the problem.
• Rapid yellowing and dropping of leaves means that the plant is under stress. It could be caused by a draft if the plants stood next to the open window. Leaves may also turn yellow due to lack of nutrition or high temperature with poor air circulation. If the leaves began to fall off a newly purchased plant (there can be many reasons), then it is worth sacrificing the flowers. Flowering requires a lot of energy from the orchid, and to reduce the risk of plant loss, remove the inflorescence. Especially since vanda flowers.
• If small dark purple dots appeared on the upper leaves- "freckles" - the vanda has sunbathed and needs to be shaded.
• If the roots have begun to turn black, which means that rot began to develop inside them. It is necessary to remove the affected roots, process the sections Fundazol. Most likely you did not follow the watering regimen, and the roots did not have time to completely dry out. If the rot has already penetrated the stem, then you will have to cut off the top of the plant and process the cut Fundazol. The affected lower part is discarded. At first, you need to refrain from watering and spraying to avoid relapse.

About the magnificent one called Wanda, the first entry was made in the diary of William Jones, who in 1795 carefully studied Asia. This flower was so magnificent that the scientist compared it with the rustling of the wings of the smallest bird on earth, with the whisper of the wind heard among the huge ones.

Vanda is an epiphytic plant from the orchid family that can be found in the tropical Philippines, South China, India, Indonesia and Australia. In nature, there are about 20 thousand species of this plant.

Amazing beauty is not the main distinguishing feature of Wanda.

The orchid blooms for no more than a month and a half, but with proper cultivation, it blooms several times a year.

An orchid called “wanda” is an exotic plant that is not used to growing in our latitudes. Therefore, to make it feel comfortable, you need to make a lot of effort when leaving.

First you need to learn about some of the features of the vanda:

1. The orchid is evergreen and does not have a precise dormant period.
2. It is a demanding flower, the care of which must be at the highest level, otherwise it will not be possible to grow it.
3. Vanda is very different from other orchids due to the tangled long roots, and therefore requires being in a place with a controlled microclimate.

Varieties

Wanda has several representatives of its species, which are especially popular with flower growers. These include:

Home care

Growing a beautiful plant called vanda is not an easy task.

All instructions provided must be followed very carefully. In addition, it will not work to take care of it as well as other plants. This requires an individual approach.

Temperature

Wanda loves warmth, so it is desirable that the air is always warmed up to at least 25 degrees. At temperatures below 20 degrees, the plant begins to feel bad and can be damaged by various diseases. The temperature rising above 25 degrees does not affect the growth and well-being of the orchid.

Lighting

If necessary, transplant the vanda into a wider container or change the ground, do not be afraid of damaging the roots. They are durable, but still need to be watered before the procedure to soften. In addition, the substrate, which is no longer suitable for moisture, will move away from the roots without damage.

There are times when a vanda needs an unplanned transplant. Eg:

• the substrate was compressed and air began to flow badly to the roots;
• the plant was planted from the very beginning in unsuitable soil;
• the roots are too deep;
• diseases associated with rotting of the root system.

Fertilizer

Wanda needs constant feeding, which is carried out every week. Fertilizers in the complex are diluted at the rate of 1 gram per liter of water.

There are times when the vanda does not bloom at all. This is directly related to the lack of light, low temperatures and overfeeding with nitrogen.

After flowering, vanda flower stalks are cut off and watering is carried out less often, but once making baths in warm water for the plant. Stop spraying.

If possible, it is advisable to take the plant outside, hanging it on a garden tree or on a balcony, and continue appropriate care. Fresh air during this period is very useful to her.

reproduction

Wanda reproduces by children, as its lateral processes are called. Their appearance is a rarity, even despite the correct care of the plant.

Children are separated after reaching a length of five centimeters. After separating the shoots, slices remain on the orchid, which it is advisable to sprinkle with charcoal. In the first days, the baby should grow in greenhouse conditions with a humidity of at least 85%.

Such indicators are achieved with the help of a humidifier. The sprout is planted in a narrow pot, which will prevent the root system from rotting in the future. The substrate should include coniferous bark and moss - sphagnum.

With proper care, the plant will easily reach 20 cm in length, it is during this period that I transplant it into a pot for permanent growth. Other types of vanda breeding at home are not possible.

Root growth

If the care of the vanda orchid was not done correctly, then the plant loses most of the roots. Fortunately, growing new roots is not difficult.

To begin with, the vanda is taken out of the pot, the roots are washed with a fungicide and dried well. Damaged roots must be removed, and the plant should be lowered for a few minutes in a solution that stimulates growth.

Then expanded clay is poured into a transparent pot, watered and covered with moss on top. An orchid is carefully placed in the finished hole in the center and sprinkled with the same moss. The pot with the plant should be in a warm room with good ventilation.

It does not need to be watered, just lightly spray the pot around the edges. If everything is done correctly, in a month the orchid will form new roots.

Diseases and pests

Pests such as whiteflies, aphids, thrips, mealybugs can damage the magnificent vanda. On closer examination, the plant can easily be seen that it is affected.

In this case, the following is carried out:

The most common diseases are:

• atrophy that occurs with a lack of moisture and severe overheating;
• damage to the leaves in the form of cracks obtained mechanically, when overfeeding the plant and sunburn;
• thermal burn arising from hot and dry air.

Vanda orchid is a plant that requires special breeding and care. Fulfilling all the necessary requirements, she will decorate the house with her exotic look for a long time.

Orchids Vanda (VANDA) - one of the most beautiful representatives of the orchid family. In indoor floriculture, flowers of these plants are used very widely due to the brightness and unusual color of the petals, as well as the length of flowering time. With skillful care, the Wanda orchid may not drop flowers for up to three months and delight the owners with new buds several times a year.

Below you will learn how to care for Vanda orchids, and what types of these plants are cultivated at home.

The genus unites about 70 species of epiphytic plants distributed in the tropics of Asia, India, China and the Philippines. In addition, the culture has a huge number of interspecific and intergeneric hybrids. This is due to the fact that Vanda orchid flowers easily interbreed both within the genus and with orchids of other genera.

All vandas are monopodial epiphytic and lithophytic orchids of warm and moderate content with powerful gray-green aerial roots and narrow belt-like leaves located on an upright shoot in two opposite rows. The flowers are large, beautifully colored, fragrant, in loose axillary racemes on long peduncles. The flowering of the brush lasts up to 3 months, while vandas can bloom several times a year.

Vanda's closest relatives include Doritis, Arachnis, Ascocentrum, Aerides, and Renanthera. All these orchids are epiphytes or lithophytes.

Blue orchid Vanda and her photo

Of the natural species, the most famous blue Vanda orchid (Vanda coerulea), a plant native to the rainforests of India, China, Burma and Thailand. This is an epiphytic growing orchid with belt-like leathery leaves, and thick aerial roots.

As can be seen in the photo, the Vanda blue orchid has an inflorescence up to 30-60 cm long with large (up to 10 cm in diameter) pale blue flowers with dark veins. Brought brightly colored blue and pink forms with a dark mesh and a rounder and flatter flower.

Vanda bluish (Vanda coerulescens)- a miniature view, the leaves of which are collected in a rosette. Blooms in late winter - spring. The inflorescence is many-flowered, consisting of long-lived fragrant blue flowers, 3-4 cm in diameter.

Pay attention to the photo of this Wanda orchid - her lip is decorated with purple-blue marks. The first specimens of this species were found in 1837 by the famous botanist Griffiths.

Types of orchids Vanda (with photo)

Wanda Suarez, or gentle (Vanda soaris)- stem 60-90 cm long bears dark green belt-like leaves. Flowering, which is usually abundant, begins in the spring. The racemose inflorescence consists of 10-12 fragrant flowers 5-7 cm in diameter. Petals and sepals are wavy, white, with purple dots. The lip is three-lobed, bright pink.

One of the popular types of Vanda orchids is var. tricolor - a large plant, up to a meter or more high. Peduncle with 5-10 fragrant star-shaped flowers, about 7 cm in diameter, white-cream, with red-brown spots and stripes.

Wanda comb (Vanda cristata)- a species characterized by large, up to 5 cm in diameter, fragrant flowers of yellow or red color.

wanda the great (Vanda insignis)- a large evergreen plant with a thick stem and stiff, elongated leaves. Blooms in summer. The peduncle bears a racemose inflorescence consisting of several brownish-yellow flowers, 4-5 cm in diameter. The lip is large, round, pink. At the end of the XX century. based on this species, many new hybrids have been obtained in Thailand.

At home, preference is given to hybrids with spectacular large flowers, the flowering period of which depends on the type and conditions of detention. This bright and exotic orchid is used to decorate warm flower beds in greenhouses and winter gardens.

Vanda Fuchs- the hybrid became popular at the end of the 20th century, officially registered in 1994, since then it has been widely used in the process of further hybridization. It and its derivatives are characterized by a peculiar spotting of the petals and lips of flowers. The background color can vary from blue-violet to pink-red.

Orchid Vanda Gordon Dillon- a hybrid characterized by a variety of colors of rounded flowers collected in a racemose inflorescence 15-25 cm long. The leaves are elongated, light green, 15-20 cm long.

Orchid Vanda Kultana- a vanda hybrid that blooms several times a year. The stem is straight, 45-60 cm high. The flowers are large, fragrant, purple with white stains, collected in racemose inflorescences of 20-25 pieces. The Vanda Kultana orchid blooms for several months. Plants require warm and humid conditions.

Vanda Roberts Delight- a light-loving hybrid with a racemose inflorescence containing from 15 to 25 fragrant bright pink flowers.

Vanda Rothschildiana- a hybrid obtained by crossing two species - V. sonderiana and V. coerulea. Light blue flowers with a diameter of 4-5 cm are collected in many-flowered inflorescences. Flowering begins at the end of September.

Vanda Sansai Blue- unpretentious hybrid with blue flowers. The multi-flowered inflorescence remains fresh and fragrant for up to 2 months. During flowering, the plant requires abundant moisture and intense artificial lighting.

vanda monster- a hybrid obtained by crossing the species V. tassellata and the vanda variety ‘Pranerm Ornete’. A large plant with a height of a meter or more. A tall peduncle bearing more than a dozen flowers is recommended to be tied up or attached to a support.

Vanda Reverend Masao Yamada- a brightly colored hybrid with a beautiful flower shape, inheriting these characteristics from Vanda sanderiana.

Vanda Trikim, a synonym for Holcoglossum Kimball (Holcoglossum kirnballianum) - a hybrid obtained by crossing the species V. suavis and V. kimballiana. Homeland - the territory of Thailand and Burma, where the plant is known as Nued-Pram-Lum-Dum. Unlike the parent species, the variety is characterized by slightly twisted petals and a more distinct division of the distal part of the lip into two lobes.

How to care for a Vanda orchid at home

For growing Vanda orchids, a bright sunny room is chosen (shaded southern windows, western and southwestern) with high humidity and a temperature of +24 ... + 26 ° C during the day and + 14 ... + 15 ° C at night. The exception is the blue vanda, which requires cooler conditions.

When caring for and growing Vanda orchids, plants can be placed on windows, in mini-greenhouses, greenhouses and winter gardens. They need more light than Phalaenopsis and Cattleyas. The most demanding and, accordingly, difficult in the culture of vandas with cylindrical leaves. They are placed as close to the light as possible.

Blue vanda in culture is demanding of coolness, as it comes from the mountainous regions of India. A pot culture is preferred, however, under conditions of daily spraying and constant high humidity, the orchid can be kept with completely open roots, i.e. in a block culture.

Watering and propagating Vanda orchids

For watering the Wanda orchid, warm water is used; in the summer, watering should be plentiful and uniform.

During active growth, top dressing is required every two weeks with a special fertilizer for orchids. Transplantation is carried out before the active decomposition of the substrate begins, best in the spring. Frequent transplantation is contraindicated. For new plants, a substrate for epiphytes is used.

Reproduction of the Wanda orchid is carried out by dividing the bush, while the adult plant is cut in half so that both halves have their own roots. Sometimes in flowering plants, dormant buds of flower stalks develop into vegetative "kids". They are planted after the formation of their own root system.