Diseases of plants in the garden and their treatment. How to prevent the development of diseases in the garden What diseases are in garden beds

The harvest on the site directly depends on the health of the plants. Most diseases in the plant world are fungal. Approximately 80% of all diseases. Fungal spores can be carried by animals and insects, wind, they are stored for a long time in the soil, on tools, containers, plant debris. Spores begin to grow while in plants, damaging and gradually killing them. At the same time, mushrooms are very tenacious, they are not even afraid of frost.

How to prevent the development of diseases in the garden

There are several basic rules, the observance of which will protect plants from fungal diseases.

• Plant fungus-resistant plants.
• Destroy weeds and all kinds of plant debris in time, do not put diseased plants in compost, but burn them.
• Carefully dig the soil after harvesting, rotate vegetables correctly.
• Reduce ambient humidity: Plants should be planted sparsely or thinned out periodically.
• Nitrogen fertilization should not be one-sided.
• Take good care of your plants. It was noted that, as a rule, only weak plants are affected by fungal diseases.

The most common fungal diseases

powdery mildew

It can affect the upper parts of almost any plant. At first, most often on the leaves, a white coating forms, over time it thickens and becomes brown or gray with many black dots. A favorable environment for powdery mildew is elevated temperature, excess nitrogen in the soil, high humidity and heavy pruning of the plant. Powdery mildew can affect squash, cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini, berries and blackcurrant and gooseberry leaves. Spraying with the following solution helps to fight it - for 10 liters of water, 50 grams of soda and 50 grams of soap. You need to spray during the growing season. Also, for the prevention and treatment of plants from powdery mildew, you can use the drug Thiovit Jet.

Rust

The main symptom is the appearance of small red-brown or yellowish-orange spots on the leaves, sometimes they are slightly convex. Over time, the spots increase in size and eventually the leaves and even the entire shoot dry out over time. Rust can attack peonies, clematis, daylilies, rhododendrons, honeysuckle, cherry blossoms, roses, junipers, and many conifers. It is necessary to fight rust by spraying. Two bars of soap are dissolved in a bucket of hot water, cooled and sprayed, trying to capture the lower leaves as well, twice a week, until the rust is completely gone.

downy mildew

Appears on the plant initially in the form of yellowish spots. After about a day, a grayish coating becomes visible on the leaves. Over time, spots begin to cover the entire leaf. At the same time, diseased leaves dry up, the stems begin to bend, and the fruits shrivel, turn brown and fall off. A favorable environment for downy mildew is a combination of high temperature and high humidity. It affects cucumbers, roses, celery crops, ornamental onions, grapes, all types of cabbage, and carrots. To combat this fungal disease, it is necessary to spray the plant with copper oxychloride.

spotting

Dry spots appear on stems, leaves, fruits, flowers. Which in turn can lead to early aging of the leaves. Plants in dense plantings and neglected, old trees are especially susceptible to spotting. The disease can affect cereals, legumes, sakura, almonds, ornamental apple trees, lilacs, hydrangeas, roses, rhododendrons, peonies, clematis, dahlias, primroses, gladioli, cloves, mallow, phlox, ornamental cabbage and others. It is necessary to deal with spotting as follows: in early spring or autumn, spray the plants with 3% Bordeaux mixture. In addition, after and before flowering and after 2 weeks, the plants are sprayed with 1% Bordeaux liquid.

Rotten

Plants begin to become covered with brown and yellow spots, bloom poorly, lag behind in growth, bear fruit poorly, rot and often die. Affected areas are covered with white, brownish or pink bloom. The development of rot can be facilitated by deep and thickened planting, excess nitrogen fertilizers, as well as high environmental humidity. The disease can affect ornamental cabbages, begonias, primroses, hyacinths, tulip bulbs, dahlias, clematis, roses, ornamental apple trees, sakuras, lilacs, and conifers. Spraying helps to fight rot - pour 50 g of soda ash with boiled water, boil for 30 minutes, add 40 g of soap, and dilute with 10 liters of water.

quila

First, small light swellings appear on the roots, then they increase, becoming brown in color. The plant begins to wither, often dies. In autumn, the growths decompose and the spores enter the soil, where they are able to remain viable for up to 5 years. This disease is the main enemy of cabbage, all cruciferous plants. This disease will be saved by neutralizing the acidity in the soil with the help of liming.

So, there are a lot of diseases in our garden. And it is very disappointing when, due to an outbreak of a disease, all our work is lost. Therefore, it is desirable to treat plants before the onset of the disease, or at least at the first signs of it.

Flower plants are often affected by diseases, which, depending on the causes that cause them, can be divided into infectious and non-infectious.

infectious diseases plants are caused by the smallest organisms: fungi, bacteria, viruses. They are able, in the presence of favorable conditions, to quickly move from one plant to another and form large foci of infection.

Noncommunicable diseases most often occur due to improper care of flowers.
Diseases on flowers can manifest themselves in the form of wilting on plants, dying off of sections or individual organs, rot, spots, various plaques, deformations, growths, etc.

List of infectious diseases

• vascular wilt
• Gray rot
• powdery mildew
• Rust
• spotting
• Infectious burn
• bacterial cancer
• Root and root rot
• Planting material diseases
• Viral diseases.

I have listed almost all infectious diseases that affect flowers in our dachas. Armed with knowledge, you can prevent plant diseases in your garden plots and effectively deal with their manifestations.

Let us dwell in detail on the description of infectious diseases of flowering plants.

Black leg of flower plants

Seedlings of flowering plants are susceptible to this disease. The disease manifests itself in the blackening and decay of the roots of the neck of young plants. Later, the stem in the place of blackening becomes thinner, and the plant fades.

Most often, this disease manifests itself in flowers that are grown in greenhouses. And why? Because it is in greenhouses that there is high humidity, poor ventilation, high temperature, heavy soil.

Control measures.
- Agrotechnics for growing seedlings should be strictly observed.
- Remove and destroy diseased plants. Pour the remaining seedlings with 0.2% potassium permanganate or daily onion infusion (300 g of onion per 10 liters of water).

- Folk elimination method "".

Vascular wilts of plants

The disease manifests itself in the defeat of the vascular system. Pathogens penetrate the plant from the soil, colonize the conductive vessels and cause changes in the form of yellowing and drying of the lower leaves and withering of the entire plant. Then the lower part of the stem near the root collar darkens and a fungus bloom appears on the affected area.

Fusarium wilt affects many plants, especially gladioli, asters, carnations. Plants get sick at any age, but more often in the stage of budding and flowering. Hot weather favors the spread and development of the disease.

vascular wilt affects about 150 plant species. Among flowers, wilting is common on asters, carnations, chrysanthemums, dahlias, peonies, sweet peas, snapdragons, etc.

Control measures.
- It is necessary to observe the agrotechnics of growing plants.
- Strictly alternate cultures, returning to their original place no earlier than after 4 years.
– Apply a balanced plant nutrition, avoiding nitrogen overfeeding.
- Regularly destroy weeds, avoid dense plantings.
– In autumn, collect and burn plant residues - places of possible infection.
- Carefully prepare the soil for planting plants. Use healthy planting material.

Gray rot flowers

It affects a lot of flower plants, including gladioli, tulips, peonies, roses, dahlias. The affected areas turn brown, turn brown, soften. In wet weather, a gray mold appears on them. The pathogen develops on all organs - leaves, buds, stems, bulbs, corms.

Round or oval reddish-brown spots appear on leaves, stems and flowers, which later become light with a darker rim. The spots increase, merge and the leaves die off. From the leaves, the disease passes to the stems, buds, flowers. Severely infected plants will not bloom.

The development of the disease contributes to high humidity. To a large extent, they suffer from gray rot. If, when examining the bulbs, you find that the core fails when pressed, then this is heart-shaped rot. Naturally, such planting material must be discarded.

Tulips infect fungus

All organs of the plant are affected. The disease develops during the growing season and during storage. Small light or brown spots appear on the leaves, first rounded, then indefinite, with a dark watery edge of the spot.

In wet cold weather, the spots grow and cover the entire leaf. The same spots are formed on the stems, peduncles and petals. When the base of the stem is damaged, the plant breaks off and dies.

Affected bulbs can be identified by slightly depressed yellow spots with a protruding dark brown edge. The tissues of the affected bulb darken, soften, the bulb shrinks, and small black sclerotia of the fungus appear on its surface. The source of infection are the bulbs and sclerotia of the fungus.

Irises are attacked by a fungus

The rhizomes are mainly affected, on which rot and sclerotia appear in the form of folded heaps. In the spring, leaves of infected plants grow poorly, which later dry out. In wet weather, they are covered with a gray fluffy coating at ground level.

Control measures.
– Avoid lower areas with heavy soils.
- Observe proper watering, carry out regular loosening.
- Resistance to the disease is increased by feeding with phosphorus and potassium, as well as microelements.
- Dry planting material before storing
– Discard and burn diseased bulbs and corms during storage.
- When replanting irises and peonies, cut off the affected rhizomes, followed by pickling in a 1% solution of copper sulphate.

Powdery mildew

A white powdery coating appears on the leaves, shoots, buds of plants. Sometimes black dots form here - these are fruiting bodies.
Many flower plants are susceptible to the disease: roses, peonies, phloxes, aquilegia, perennial asters, lupins, sweet peas, etc.

Powdery mildew is caused by a fungus. Leaves, stems, shoots, buds are covered with white bloom. Infected leaves dry out and fall off, plants are stunted and may die. Humidity in the development of the disease does not play a big role.

In phlox, white spots appear on the leaves in early June, which quickly spread throughout the plate, affecting the upper leaves and stems. By the end of July, and sometimes even earlier, the plant becomes untidy and dies prematurely.

In recent years, the disease has become widespread and is the most harmful of phlox diseases.

Control measures.
- During the growing season, fertilize with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
- Plants are treated with copper-soapy liquid (20 g of copper sulphate are dissolved in 0.5 liters of hot water, then 200 g of green soap are dissolved in 9.5 liters of water. A solution of copper sulphate is added to the soap solution with stirring, the total is 10 l liquid.)
Treatment with such a liquid should be carried out at least 2-3 times with an interval of 14 days.
– Three times a day treatment with slurry is quite effective. Well-rotted cow dung should be poured with water 1:3, infused for 3-5 days, diluted three times and sprayed.

Rust

It affects many flower plants: mallows, chrysanthemums, irises, peonies, roses, primroses, snapdragons and other flowers.
On leaves, stems and shoots appear orange in spring, brown in summer, brown-black raised pads in autumn - the so-called pustules of the fungus. The development of rust fungi is facilitated by waterlogging, excess nitrogen and a lack of potassium and phosphorus. The fungus overwinters on fallen leaves and in the plants themselves.

Control measures.
- Destroy weeds - possible hosts of the fungus.
– During the growing season, treat plants with 1% Bordeaux mixture.
- Late autumn or early spring treat perennials with 1% nitrofen.

spotting

The disease is expressed in the appearance of spots of various shapes, colors and sizes on the leaves and stems of flowering plants. As the disease progresses, they grow, merge and cause the death of not only the leaves, but even the entire plant.

Rose diseases called black spot and infectious burn are very dangerous. Black spot is caused by a fungus. Usually, by the end of summer, black spots of various sizes appear, which cause their premature fall. With a strong development of the disease, the leaves fall off in August, the dormant buds start to grow, the bushes leave weakened before winter.

Infectious burn

This disease manifests itself immediately after removing the winter shelter. The stems are covered with brown spots with a red-brown border. In the future, these spots merge and ring the stem. The part of it above the lesion remains green for some time. Leaves appear on it, but then dry up.

Plants weakened after wintering are damaged by an infectious burn. To a strong extent, the disease develops in a rose that has been under cover for a long time at a positive temperature.

Red-purple spots on phlox leaves

Painful spots appear first on the lower, then on the upper leaves of phlox. Soon they become white in the middle. Infected leaves dry up and die. The fungus causes spotting on the annual aster. Angular yellow-brown spots form between the veins of the leaves. Leaves dry up.

Control measures.
- To avoid an infectious burn, shelters should be partially removed from roses in early spring.
- Carry out early spring or late autumn treatment of plantations with a 2% solution of nitrofen or 0.6-0.8% copper oxychloride.

bacterial cancer

With this disease, growths, such as tumors, form on the roots, root collar, sometimes on the lower part of the stem. At first, these growths are white, then darken and decompose. The disease is caused by bacteria. Dahlias and roses get sick with cancer. In gladioli, carnations, nasturtiums, petunias, outgrowths form on the root collar, from which many shortened weak shoots grow. This form is called growth.
Bacteria can survive in the soil for many years.

Control measures.
– Avoid excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers.
– Strictly check planting material.
- Treat wells from under diseased plants with bleach.

Root and root rot

Root rot affects many flower plants. Diseased roots rot and die, the ground part turns yellow and fades. Rots are caused by fungi and bacteria. Iris root rot is very harmful. The protruding roots freeze slightly, form a wet rot in the form of a mushy mass, which, when dried, turns into a light powder with an unpleasant odor.

Control measures.
– Do not use heavy waterlogged soils for irises
– Sick plants should be removed and destroyed.
- Irises for the winter must be covered in order to prevent freezing of the roots.
- When diseased rhizomes are found, they are freed from the ground, cleaned of rot and sprinkled with crushed coal mixed with sulfur 1: 1.

Non-infectious plant diseases

Non-infectious plant diseases are caused by unfavorable environmental conditions or errors in agricultural technology.
By external signs, they can sometimes resemble infectious diseases: spotting, vascular wilt, root diseases, etc.
Abnormal development of plants contributes to the excess or lack of nutrients.
Yes, at phosphorus starvation leaves become bluish-green, sometimes red-violet, plant growth is weakened, flowers and ovaries fall off.

Excess potassium retards plant growth and flower development. From a lack of potassium, the leaves become dome-shaped, at the edges they start off light yellow, then brown and die off. The same is observed with an excess of boron.

Magnesium starvation manifests itself in the lightening of the leaves, and the normal color remains only along the veins. Leaves become brittle and fall off prematurely.

nitrogen deficiency slows down the growth of plants, they acquire a chlorotic color. The lower leaves are drooping. Fruits are almost not formed. Drying of lilacs with cracking and dying of the bark at the root neck occurs with excessive nitrogen application.

At iron deficiency the leaves turn yellow, and the veins remain green. At lack of manganese on the contrary, the veins of the leaves, as well as the flowers, brighten.

Treatment of plants with pesticides may cause necrotic spotting of leaves, buds and flowers (burns).

on heavy soils and deep landing plants experience oxygen starvation, the so-called “suffocation” of the roots of gladioli, tulips and other bulbs is observed.

Tomatoes hurt last summerlate blight , Alternaria and, what is especially alarming is the flashbacterial cancer of tomatoes .

Three years ago I settled in a greenhousecladosporiosis , a very common disease.

In addition to these "gifts", you can list a lot of others: virosis, mycosis, bacteriosis, phytoplasmosis, wilting, nematodosis - and each of these areas has dozens of severe diseases that are caused by pathogenic microbes.

But, as they say, the Lord created "each creature in pairs." Scientists are looking forfind useful microbes capable of destroying the pathogen, or at least contain its spread.

I already wrote in last year's magazine a long article about the cabbage trouble of an all-Russian scale -vascular and mucous bacterioses . Cabbage is my favorite crop and I do my best to save itfrom pests (I cover the planted seedlings with spunbond) andfrom diseases using the bacteria present in the preparationplanriz . Try before sowing cabbage seeds, i.e. until mid-March to find this microbiological preparation.

Because the vascular and mucous bacterioses are transmitted throughseeds , then it is necessary to pickle them with Planriz before sowing. As soon as shoots appear, carefully inspect them. Cotyledon leaves should be wide, evenly colored without any spots and chlorosis.

Otherwise, immediately spray them with Planriz solution, which includes bacteria from the Pseudomonas family, they produce several types of antibiotics and growth stimulants, due to which the plants recover. Planriz do two sprayings with an interval of 20 days.

Planriz can be used for prevention not only from bacterial diseases, but also from fungal diseases (blackleg, wilting, root and fruit rot). I treated apples with these microbes a day before picking them from the tree so that they would not rot during storage. I treated strawberries with Planriz before harvesting for gray rot; cucumbers - from root rot; garlic cloves before planting them in the ground.

I want to draw special attention to the fact that this drugno waiting period , i.e. it is absolutely harmless and the fact that it has a short shelf life. So be sure to check it before buying.its expiration date .

Bacteria from the familypseudomonads are part of my favorite drugAgate - 25 . Whoever sprays them with all the plants 2 times a month will always have a harvest.planriz can be used together with poisons for pests. For example, withDecis .

Bacteria of this family are included in another biological product -Pseudobacterin - 2 . This is my wand - a lifesaver in the fight against a very bad, difficult to remove disease in tomatoes -cladosporiosis (olive, or brown spotting).

Pseudobacterin-2 is recommended for soaking cucumber and tomato seeds against root rot and for spraying these crops against olive blotch. I draw your attention: the shelf life of the drug is only 45 days, and the storage temperature is 4-5 about , i.e. store it in the refrigerator or cellar.

bacteria bacillus subtilis(hay stick) our summer residents know well. On its basis, the preparations Bactofit, Fitosporin, Alirin B, Gamair work.

- Fusarium wilt (root rot),

- fruit rot (cucumbers and tomatoes),

- powdery mildew, ascochitosis,

- late blight and alternariosis of tomatoes,

- cucumber anthracnose.

Plants three times spilled with a solution of drugs. The first time - after sowing seeds (soil). The second time - seedlings after landing in a permanent place. The third time - fruiting plants at the beginning of the laying of fruits.

These drugs are onlyhold back development of pathogens, so it is important to apply them several times and from the very beginning of the growing season. If you miss the deadline, it will be too late. If signs of the disease appear, it cannot be stopped by these means.

And what are the biological means of protecting tomatoes frombacterial cancer and stem necrosis ? These diseases last summer showed their incredible harmfulness. God forbid they appear in your greenhouse.

What are their symptoms?

A typical diagnostic sign of the disease is the darkening of the affected vessels. Cut off the shoot or leaf of the tomato closer to the petiole and look at the cut: is there a brown vascular ring on it, a yellow core, a void?

The first symptoms are manifested in unilateral wilting of the leaf lobes, while the fading leaf lobes turn yellow along the edge and twist slightly. Diseased leaves turn brown, dry up,but don't fall . Pay attention to the stems of the tomato, dark stripes become visible on them, which later break, and a liquid flows out of the cracks, which contains pathogenic bacteria, they lead to the further spread of this severe infection.

First, the lower leaves are affected, then, as bacteria-pathogens move up through the vessels, dark ulcers appear on the petioles, and then on the fruits of tomatoes.

Another, more common and more dangerous form of injuryfruits - internal, when infectious bacteria from the vessels penetrate into the fetus. Such fruits have an ugly shape, and the seeds in them are underdeveloped and unsimilar. Many fruits fall off.

If the defeat of tomatoes by bacterial cancer occurs later, i.e. somewhere in the month of August, the fruits may outwardly have a normal appearance, but the strands of vessels going to the seed chambers turn from white to yellow, and the fruits become tasteless. Here the main danger is that the seeds from such fruits remain viable. Summer residents can collect them for divorce and thus contribute to the spread of this disease.

Protective Measures . Tomato hybrids resistant to this disease are currently unknown. Therefore, try not to bring the infection into the greenhouse.

Ventilate it often! Even on cool May and June days.

What should be done when signs of damage appear?

- Reduce the concentration of nutrient solutions, do not water with a solution of weeds, do not add organic matter, i.e. take awaynitrogen from nutrient solution.

- To remove stepchildren, use garden shears, dip them more often in a solution of iodine. Do not break out stepchildren with your hands.

- You can not stepson plants in the morning when they are wet from condensation.

I am so afraid of the appearance of this disease in my greenhouses that I began to take a vial of brilliant green with me and lubricate the wounds after trimming the lower leaves. Most often, bacterial cancer enters our area with seeds. Therefore, be sure to disinfect them before sowing. How to do this correctly, we will tell in the next issue of our magazine.

If you didn’t disinfect the soil in the greenhouse in the fall, thennecessarily do it in the spring. Read about it in our spring magazines.

In the meantime, I want to give one more piece of advice: choose tomato seeds withgenerative type of growth , because they are less affected by bacteriosis, their leaves do not curl into a ram's horn in the heat. Carefully read the information on the back of the package, where seed producers must tell us what type of growth this variety or hybrid belongs to. Unfortunately, such information is provided to us only by reputable firms tradingprofessional seeds.

Hundreds of new small seed packaging companies have now appeared on the Russian seed market. They catch, as a rule, novice summer residents for bright packages and stupid promising texts - fairy tales on the back of the package.

Professionals don't behave like that. Their characteristics are reserved, they are given only in essence, they are aimed at helping us in growing this variety, or hybrid. Tomatoes are supposed to taste like tomatoes, not watermelons!

For my part, I try to invite stores selling quality seeds to my magazine.

Today, our guide to the world of professional seeds will be Sergey Yuryevich Tsarevsky (Biotechnologies Kinel LLC).

Do not use chemical plant protection products "just in case": they are all toxic to humans and animals to varying degrees.

If there are enough ladybugs, hover flies, riders, ground beetles and other beneficial insects in the garden, then you can not be afraid of the invasion of aphids, mealybugs, scoops, ticks and other pests. To attract insect friends, grow dill, cilantro, watercress, onion seedlings, carrots, parsley, celery, nectariferous plants on the site.

To attract tits, starlings, flycatchers, wagtails and other birds to the gardens, arrange artificial nests - birdhouses, nest boxes, and it is better to fence off neighbors not with a fence, but with a hedge of well-branched shrubs for bird hostels.

You can protect yourself from pests and diseases not only with decoctions and infusions, but also with a thoughtful placement of garden and horticultural crops: onions and carrots mutually protect each other, respectively, from onion and carrot flies; a raspberry planted next to an apple tree protects the tree from scab, and an apple tree protects raspberries from gray rot; onions and garlic in currant plantings repel bud mites; onions between rows of strawberries reduce the spread of gray rot; peas on a potato plot scare away the wireworm.

Jars of kefir, curdled milk or sour milk, hung after flowering in the crown of apple trees, will quickly "collect" apple codling moths.

Mullein infusion will protect currants and gooseberries from powdery mildew (leave 1 part of rotted manure for 3 hours in 9-10 parts of water).

Early spring (before bud break) treatment of currants and gooseberries with hot water (about 80 °) is an effective remedy against powdery mildew and bud mites.

It affects strawberries, raspberries, grapes, fruit and vegetable crops. Fruits and berries are covered with a grayish moldy coating. The causative agent of infection persists in the soil and on plant debris. Infection occurs by spores spread by rain and wind. The disease develops especially rapidly with high soil and air humidity.

Prevention measures are very important: good lighting, sparse planting, providing ventilation; moderate moisture (watering), especially during flowering and ripening of berries; soil mulching with loose materials - straw, needles, sawdust; timely collection and destruction of affected berries.

With a significant development of the disease, early spring spraying of plants before the leaves grow back with 2% nitrafen or 3% Bordeaux liquid is advisable.

A fungal disease that spreads especially strongly in years with wet and warm springs and summers. The causative agent of scab overwinters on fallen affected leaves, and in pear and on young shoots. In spring, the spores of the fungus germinate and olive-green velvety spots appear on the leaves; later, the leaves of the apple tree turn brown, and the leaves of the pear tree turn black and fall off. Cracks appear on fruits, especially pears.

From preventive control measures, autumn digging of tree trunks, collection and disposal of fallen leaves are advisable. With a strong spread of the disease, early spring (before bud break) spraying with nitrafen is carried out; Bordeaux liquid. After flowering, the plants are treated with 1% Bordeaux liquid, copper oxychloride 0.3%, colloidal sulfur. It is very important to select scab-resistant varieties.

Fungal disease, the spread of which is facilitated by hot weather with heavy rainfall. Black-brown concentric spots appear on the lower leaves of plants, and small oblong spots appear on the lower part of the stems; on the fruits - dark spots with black bloom and dents.

The infection persists in the soil and on plant debris, and can be seed-borne. At the beginning of the manifestation of the disease, spraying is carried out with 0.4% copper oxychloride or 1% Bordeaux liquid; taking into account the spread of the disease, the treatment is carried out 2-3 times before planting seedlings in the ground and in the field after the plants take root. It should not be placed next to the planting of tomatoes and potatoes; in greenhouse structures it is very important to maintain optimal humidity.

In warm, humid weather, the leaves turn brown and droop. The disease can spread very quickly, leading to the death of the bushes; the infection spreads to the tubers, causing brownish spots. The source of the disease is a fungus that persists for a long time in seed tubers, on plant debris.

The main control measures are agrotechnical: careful selection and storage of healthy tubers, without mechanical damage; timely cleaning from haulm areas.

In the spring, before planting, seed treatment with a solution of potassium permanganate. When the first spots of late blight appear, you can use 1% Bordeaux liquid, medex (10-15 g per 1 liter of water), polycarbacin, 80% s. p. (4 g), copper oxychloride, 90% s. n. (4 g), etc.

SLUGS

They damage vegetable crops, potatoes, strawberries, eating round holes in fruits and leaves; harmfulness increases in years with wet summers and autumns. Slugs are active in the evening, at night and early in the morning, leaving traces on plants and the ground in the form of silvery stripes; go into hiding for the day.

These pests are very moisture-loving, if there is little water, they die. The greatest damage is caused in rainy years when growing plants on waterlogged heavy soils.

Preventive measures: cleanliness of plantings from weeds, their non-thickening, systematic loosening of the soil. Effectively catching pests under specially arranged shelters - wet burlap, laying out pieces of slate, boards on moist soil. In the evening, plants are pollinated with ash, fluffy lime, powdered superphosphate, and tobacco dust. The use of metaldehyde is very effective.

Large butterflies 5.5-6 cm in size with white wings: black corners are clearly defined on the front ones. Pupae hibernate on tree trunks and shrubs, fences, walls of buildings. Butterflies fly out in late April - early May. The eggs are laid on the underside of the leaves (yellowish, about 1.2 mm, ribbed). The caterpillars first stick together, gnawing the flesh from the underside of the leaves, then spread, often eating the leaves completely. Adult pests are yellow-green, with black spots and dots, up to 40 mm long.

Of the preventive measures, deep digging of the soil for planting is effective. Against caterpillars of younger ages, a double (in 7-8 days) treatment of plantings with preparations of dendrobacillin, lepidocide is practiced, the treatment of plants with tobacco dust in half with ashes, infusions and decoctions are widely used.

Sucking insects that damage currants, gooseberries, raspberries, strawberries, a number of ornamental crops, which leads to a decrease in yield, deterioration of winter hardiness of plants. The development of pests is facilitated by dry hot weather. Females, which become orange-red in autumn, overwinter under plant debris. Ticks live (larvae - greenish-yellow) on the underside of the leaves, braiding them with the thinnest cobwebs. In places of damage, light dots are formed, then discolored areas (leaf marbling).

Preventive control measures: autumn-spring digging of the soil under the bushes, removal of fallen leaves. In the spring, during bud break, they are treated with colloidal sulfur (except for gooseberries).

Small sucking insects damaging apple, pear, plum, blackthorn, hawthorn and many other fruit and indoor plants. They cause premature fall of leaves, a decrease in growth and ugliness of shoots, and with a strong spread, drying out and death of plants. Eggs hibernate under the shields of dead females on the bark. The larvae appear in the spring, at the end of the flowering of the apple tree, they are inactive.

Pest eggs are destroyed by early spring spraying with nitrafen; mobile larvae of the first instars are destroyed with organophosphorus preparations.

Scale insects often cover the bark with a continuous layer. In this case, it is necessary to abundantly moisten the surface of the plants with the working fluid. Before spraying, prune trees, remove dry branches and root shoots, clean boles and skeletal branches from particles of dead bark, mosses, lichens and lime residues.

Damages raspberries and strawberries, especially on old plantings. Pests hibernate under fallen leaves and lumps of earth. At first, the beetles feed on young leaves. By the beginning of strawberry flowering, the females lay their eggs inside the buds, while gnawing the pedicel. The hatched larvae live, feed and pupate inside the buds. Summer generations of pests feed on leaves, making holes in them.

Among the control measures, the main ones are agrotechnical: periodic change of planting sites for strawberries and raspberries; these cultures should not be placed side by side; cleaning plantings from old leaves and loosening the soil. With a limited distribution of pests, damaged buds should be collected and destroyed; in case of mass damage - during the budding period, 5-6 days before flowering and after harvesting - plantings are treated with INTA-VIR.

Damages most fruit and deciduous trees. The eggs of the pest overwinter in cracks in the bark, usually near the kidneys. Caterpillars hatch in spring before flowering. As an adult, they are yellowish green, 20 cm long with a dark longitudinal stripe on the back and three white stripes on the sides; eat buds, buds and young leaves; damaged parts of the plant are entwined with cobwebs. By the beginning of summer, the caterpillars go into the soil to a depth of 5-12 cm, where they pupate. In September - October, butterflies appear: males with well-developed yellow-gray wings with a span of about 30 mm, while females have underdeveloped wings.

In autumn, trapping belts are effective, forcing females to lay eggs on the bark below the belt, where they are easy to collect and destroy; in spring, before bud break, the trees are sprayed with nitrafen (20-30 g per 1 liter of water), later, against hatching caterpillars, with lepidocide (2-3 g per 1 liter of water), INTA-VIR.

Damages plum, sloe, apricot, peach. Pest eggs overwinter in cracks in the bark near the kidneys. In early spring, white hairy insects 2-3 mm in size appear on the inside of the leaves. The leaves become spoon-shaped and dry; fruits become ugly, rot.

This pest reproduces in huge quantities: its colonies cover the underside of the leaves with a continuous dense layer. Soot fungus often develops on aphid secretions.

In the spring, before bud break, spraying with 2.5-3% nitrafen is carried out; at the beginning of bud break, a soap solution (20-30 g per 1 liter of water), tobacco infusion, INTA-VIR is used against hatching larvae.

Regular cutting and destruction of tops, fattening shoots, root shoots is necessary. Of great preventive importance is the autumn cleaning of boles and uterine branches from particles of dead bark and subsequent whitewashing with lime milk.

Damages mainly young leaves of red and white currants. In early spring, small golden or orange insects appear on the inside of the leaf blades. In places of damage, the leaf tissue grows in the form of dark red or yellow protrusions and swellings (galls). In autumn, females lay eggs on plants near the buds of young shoots.

Infected bushes are sprayed with nitrafen before bud break (about 30 g per 1 liter of solution); on blossoming leaves, you can apply feverfew, a solution of soap and tobacco infusion, or a combination of them; 1-2-fold treatment with INTA-VIR.

In autumn, clean the bark, immediately burn the cleaning, rake and destroy fallen leaves, dig up the tree trunks. After flowering, treatment with anometrin-N, 25% k.e. (1 g per 1 liter of water), karbofos, 10% a.e. and 10% s. n. (7.5-9 g), You need to spray the underside of the leaves, where the bugs and their larvae are located.

NON-CHEMICAL PROTECTION

TOBACCO. It is used against fleas, bedbugs, sawflies, caterpillars, scale insects, spider mites, aphids and other sucking pests.

Decoction; raw tobacco is poured with water in a ratio of 1:10 and boiled for 30 minutes, defended for a day, filtered; before spraying, dilute with water 1:3 and add 40 g of laundry soap per 10 liters of solution.

Infusion: raw materials are poured with water (1:10), infused at a temperature of 25-30 degrees for 24 hours with systematic stirring; before use, dilute with water in a ratio of 1:3.

A decoction of tobacco with onion peel: 200 g of raw tobacco and 200 g of onion peel are boiled for 30 minutes in 2-3 liters of water, cooled, diluted with water to 10 liters, soap is added, filtered.

A mixture of tobacco dust with ash or lime - in equal proportions; used for dusting at the rate of 30-40 g per 1 m2.

Tansy - an active insecticide, used to combat moths, aphids, glass, gooseberry moth, apple and pear codling moths.

Broth: 1 kg of dried green raw materials are boiled in 10 liters of water over low heat for 1-2 hours, defended, filtered, 40 g of laundry soap are added.

Infusion: 200 g of dry raw materials per 10 liters of water; boil for 30 minutes, followed by infusion for 1-2 days; before using for spraying, filter, add soap.

Tansy powder is used to pollinate affected plants. Freshly picked inflorescences and leaves are used to repel mosquitoes: bunches are laid out or hung indoors, open areas of the body are rubbed with greens.

PEPPER HOT. They are used against various types of aphids, bedbugs, white caterpillars, scoops, moths, raspberry and strawberry weevil, scale insects, sawflies, flea beetles.

Infusion: 100 g of dry pods or 250 g of fresh ones are poured into 2 liters of water, boiled for 1 hour and infused for 2 days, the pepper is rubbed, squeezed, the solution is filtered.

Before bud break, plants are treated with a solution with the addition of water 1:20 and laundry soap; after bud break, treatment is carried out with a weaker solution - 1:40 or 1:50.

When working with both fresh and dry raw materials, it must be borne in mind that getting it on the mucous membranes causes a very strong burning sensation.

Magazine "Homesteading"
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