How to make a compact multifunctional machine. Tools and fixtures for the home workshop How to make a woodworking machine with your own hands drawings

Everyone brain artisans Good day! For those of you who don't have large workshops or small tool shelving, this will come in handy. homemade this article, which compactly fits all the useful tools and which can be easily moved to other work sites.

When creating this brain crafts I tried to make it as compact as possible so that it can be conveniently used even in a small space, and moved even if you don’t have a car. To do this, she has transport wheels, and move under the tree you can do it alone, but if you still use a car for this, you will only need a little help with loading.

This compact machine homemade includes: circular table, router table and jigsaw. And it also has a large cabinet in which you can store your other tools.

To show under the tree in action, I'll make a couple of boxes out of cheap pine boards.
The video shows how I cut the boards for the boxes on the circular table using a slide, to get the required dimensions I use an additional bar with a clamp.

Then I make a groove for the base.
The desired angle can be obtained using the corner stop with a guide.
By removing the pad, you can set the angle of the disc, in this case 45 degrees.
The guide of the jigsaw is adjustable in three axes, thus it is possible to use blades of different sizes - from 100 to 180mm, thereby obtaining a maximum cutting height of 70mm.

Next, I make a drawer handle, and for this I use a milling cutter, with which I make a rounded chamfer. There is also a guide for the corner stop, and an outboard bearing will be useful for milling curved lines. The router itself can be tilted at an angle of 45°.
The box is ready, and it takes its place.

The tongue-and-groove connection is possible on this braintable do it in two ways. Firstly, with the help of a jigsaw, an additional bar and an angle stop. And secondly, on a circular table, using a special jig.

With the largest disk that can be installed on homemade(235mm), you can get a maximum cut of 70mm. There are small adjustment bolts on the rail to reduce the tilt and even lock if needed.

To connect the parts, I chose the second method, for this some parts should be placed on one side of the jig, and others on the other.

And that's what happened, go to the router, this time we are already using a clamping device to make a groove in the base. To do this, raise the circular saw and set the router at an angle of 45 °.

Step 1: Cutting the Parts

The creation of a multifunctional table begins - homemade with cutting all the details and their numbering.
Further, to obtain a slot for the handle, 4 corner holes are drilled and “finished” with a jigsaw. Holes are then drilled the same size as the diameter and thickness of the washer of the opening system. The holes are countersinking.

After that, a place is prepared for installing the power and emergency shutdown buttons. Then, with the help of dowels and 50mm self-tapping screws, the body is assembled braintable. On request, body parts are varnished, so craft will look better and last longer.

Having prepared the body, 3 upper parts are assembled. To do this, the details of the folding frames are cut and the necessary holes are drilled in them. The hole for the tube is drilled with such a diameter that this tube rotates freely in it, since it is the axis of rotation of the hinged covers.

Then a cavity is selected for a circular saw. I did this with my 3D router, in the absence of a similar one, this can be done with a regular router using the appropriate jig and guides.

On the front side of the cover of the circular table, a cavity is selected for a quick-detachable panel, by removing which it will be possible to change the angle of inclination of the disk. The panel itself can be used to set the cavity milling depth.

Having installed the circular saw in the intended cavity, holes are marked for its fastening. A 3D router is well suited for this, because these holes cannot be drilled on a drilling machine due to its limited working surface.

Step 2: Beginning the Assembly

At this stage, the gradual assembly of the portable multi-functional machine for the workshop begins. do-it-yourselfer.

The groove for the guide is marked and selected using a circular table. Two additional plywood will give the necessary depth for a solid fastening of the rail bar. Next, a bar is attached to the lid with a self-adhesive tape measure applied to it.

After that, a hole for the router is drilled. Then the tubes for the axes of rotation are cut off and the frames of the hinged covers are mounted on the body. In accordance with the drawings, fixing props are manufactured and installed.

A router cover is applied to the frame, aligned and fastened with screws through holes in the guide channel.

Then the cover of the jigsaw is prepared, a groove is selected in it for this same jigsaw. If a non-slip material, such as melamine, is used for the lid, the surface of the lid should be varnished, alternating with sanding.

Having done this, the details of the mechanism of the vertical lift of the milling cutter are cut out and assembled, with the help of which the depth of milling will be adjusted.

Next, two plywood are glued together to make the holder of the router itself out of them. A hole is drilled in them of the same diameter, or suitable, as when creating the router cover. This holder brain-milling machine can be made on a CNC machine or even ordered online.

The finished router holder is attached to the vertical lift, and now you can try it in action.

To mark the radius of the tilt grooves, ordinary loops are temporarily attached to the vertical lift, and plywood scraps are used to make turntable handles.

Step 3: Completing the Build

This assembly step homemade I will start with those details that I forgot about earlier. They will give stability to the lifting system.

To begin with, the base parts are cut, I did this on my circular table, then they are assembled into a frame that is attached to the bottom of the multifunctional case braintable. The height of this frame should be the same as the height of the existing wheels.

A latch is attached to the flaps of one of the hinged covers, and a lock is attached to the flaps of the other. This may be useful when transporting crafts and act as a preventive measure against the theft of your instrument.

Next, a 4-socket electric extension cord is prepared, the two connectors of which will include a jigsaw and a milling cutter, and an additional power tool will be included in the remaining two. The socket for the circular saw is connected through the power button and the emergency shutdown button. The extension cord is wound on special handles made for this purpose.

The quick release panels are made from opal methacrylate. They are placed in their places, and the slot in the panel of the circular saw is carefully made by the saw itself. As a guide bearing, I used an accessory from the kit of an old router. This fixture will be useful when milling curved lines.

After that, the level checks the plane of the entire upper part crafts if they do not lie in the plane of the central part, then this is easily corrected by adjusting the inclination of the fixing supports.

Next, the perpendicularity of the working parts of the tools and the plane of the table is checked. To check the router, a tube is fixed in it, along which the perpendicularity of the axis of the router and the plane of the table looks, and the parallelism of the channel of the guide and the circular disk is also checked. And finally, the perpendicularity of the jigsaw blade is checked.

After that, the table tops are folded up to check if they are in the way. braintools each other.

Step 4: Useful Tools

This step is about making some useful accessories for the table - homemade.

First of all, the details of the sled are cut, then a groove is selected for the slider of the guide. After that, two plywood parts are fastened together with self-tapping screws, while the positions of the screws should be chosen so that they do not interfere with the subsequent refinement of this part. Then a measuring tape is glued onto it in a specially prepared groove, and this accessory for braintable varnished, alternating with grinding, thereby creating the necessary smooth surface on this device.

Slides are assembled, placed on the multifunctional homemade and the excess is cut off from them and the middle cut is cut, and then the measuring tape is also glued.

The guide slider is unscrewed from the sleigh and a groove is made for the tenon-groove conductor. Same as my other circular table.

The channel slider is adjusted so that the roll between the bolts disappears. The slider itself can, if necessary, be stopped by simply twisting the bot to the maximum.

Next, the parts for the rack are cut, it is assembled, and varnished and polished. After assembling the rack, a fixing system for it is made. Dowels glued into this fixing system are used as guiding axles. At the end of the assembly of the rack, the handle of the fixing system is made, and then the entire rack is tested in action.

Additionally, a dust collector for the router is installed on the rack, and on the side brain-resistant at the dust collector, threaded bushings for the pressure panel are screwed.

Having done this, the parallelism of the rack and the circular disk is checked, then a measuring tape is glued into the groove of the side wall.

Having finished with this, the details of the tenon-groove conductor are cut, which are then glued and cleaned.

Step 5: Some More Useful Tools

This is the last video of this brainguide, and its first part shows how to make a corner stop (to create it, you can stick a printed template or use a ruler). The stop blank can already be cut on the multifunctional machine itself.

The thread in the guide slider is inch, but if metric is needed, then you will have to use a tap.

Be sure to temporarily screw the stop blank to the guide to make sure that the turning radius is done correctly.

Then, the details of the spiked conductor are cut, while it is necessary to slightly increase the thickness of the conductor fastening to reduce friction.

To make a pressure panel, a template is glued onto a plywood blank, the adjustment grooves for this panel are selected using a milling cutter brain machine. In the right places of the cover with a milling cutter, threaded bushings are mounted.

First, the bearing adjustment system is assembled, a metal plate is used to avoid wear on the plywood. One of the holes is made large in order to adjust the bearings through this.

The same is done with plywood.

After that, the height adjustment system is mechanized, and now the structure can move in three axes, thereby obtaining the desired position.

Finally, the finished guide for sawing can be tested in action, while it is important to hold the sawn board with two hands so that it fits firmly enough to the plane of the table.

About the compact multifunctional homemade Anyway, good luck with your work!

Any workshop owner, even if it does not have a separate room and is simply organized in a garage, strives to equip it with everything necessary for comfortable, productive and, most importantly, high-quality work. That's just on a hand tool in our time, you can’t “leave” far. A great variety of power tools, various multifunctional or narrow-profile machines, and auxiliary equipment come to the rescue. There are no problems with the offer - the main difficulty is that high-quality products cost a lot of money, and not everyone can afford it.

But craftsmen find a way out by making such machines and devices on their own, some of which may well compete with factory models. Moreover, to create such equipment, quite affordable materials are used, often just gathering dust in the barn. And as drives, running power tools are widely used, usually available in any workshop.

In this publication, only some home-made machines and fixtures for the home workshop will be considered. It should be correctly understood that it is simply impossible to cover all the available variety of such equipment within the framework of one article. Here it is just right to allot such a topic in general a separate site. So basically a general overview will be given. But the manufacture of two models, which are very important, probably, for any workshop - a pendulum saw and a sharpening machine for cutting tools, we will consider step by step, with all the nuances, from the first sketches to testing.

The basis of the basics is a convenient workbench and organized storage of tools and accessories

The comfort of working in the workshop depends on many important conditions. If we take out the issues of heating, ventilation and lighting (these are topics for separate consideration), then the rational, convenient organization of the main workplace always comes to the fore.

We are talking about a workbench and a well-thought-out storage system for the tools, accessories, consumables and other small things necessary for work.

The workbench is selected or manufactured independently, depending on the main direction of work in the workshop.

Joiner's workbench "classic" execution

If the owner is more focused on woodworking, then he will need a carpentry workbench. There is a long used and comprehensively tested general concept of such a workplace. Probably, it makes sense to stick to it when making a workbench on your own.

The workbench is based on powerful wooden legs (pos. 1), which from below, at the base, are usually connected in pairs with lintel supports (pos. 2). There is a lid on top - a workbench (pos. 3). As a rule, a recessed area is provided - the so-called tray (pos. 4), so that during the work the tools or components necessary at hand do not fall to the floor.

Usually on the right side there is a side or rear clamp (pos. 5). In fact, this is a screw vice, in which a wedge is provided (pos. 6) that extends upwards. Along the line of this wedge along the bench there is a row of sockets (pos. 7) for similar wedges (they can be hidden in these sockets or stored separately and inserted as needed). This allows you to rigidly fix the wooden workpiece for processing between the wedges of the table and the side vise.

To fix a long piece that cannot be secured between the end wedges, use the front clamp (pos. 8). This is also a screw vice that is able to clamp the workpiece between the front end of the workbench and a movable wooden sponge. And in order for the long part to have the necessary support points from below, the fingers hidden there in the grooves or retractable supports (pos. 9) extend from the end of the workbench.

The lower area of ​​the workbench is called the workbench (pos. 10). As a rule, powerful crossbeams (prolegs) are located here, connecting the legs in pairs, imposition in the longitudinal direction. On these crossbars, shelves are often organized for storing tools or workpieces, or even, as shown in the diagram shown, a closed cabinet.

Below is a drawing of a workbench. Anyone who can read diagrams and has carpentry skills will be able to make such a model on their own.

To begin with - a general wiring diagram of a carpentry workbench with dimensions.

Now - a series of drawings for individual parts and components of the structure.

As a rule, high-quality coniferous wood with a residual moisture content of not more than 12% is used for the manufacture of parts for the underlay (base).

The workbench (cover) is mainly made of hardwood - it can be beech or oak, ash or maple. To make such a massive overall panel on your own is an extremely difficult task, therefore, a ready-made glued shield is often ordered or purchased in a carpentry workshop. It is unlikely that this will seem like a too expensive solution, given both the cost of the material and the laboriousness of the process. So it is more profitable to purchase a finished product, and then modify it for a workbench.

By the way, when performing various processing operations, one way or another, the surface of the desktop will be damaged. To maximize the life of the workbench, the lid is often covered with a plywood or fiberboard sheet (of course, according to the size of the table and with all the necessary grooves and sockets). As such a coating wears out, it can be replaced with a new one - this is not so difficult and inexpensive.

Particular difficulty is usually attached to the installation of the front and rear (side) clamps. In order to get really workable and convenient devices, it is better to purchase the screw vice mechanism itself in a finished, assembled form. There are many models available for this purpose.

To assemble these clamping units, you can refer to the following drawing:

The vise jaws must be made exclusively from hardwood, the dimensions and location of the holes are shown on the drawing. (It should be correctly understood that the location and diameter of the holes must correspond to the purchased screw mechanism).

And finally, the last diagram shows how to attach the rear fixed jaws of both vices to the workbench cover.

Of course, an example is shown here, moreover, it can suit many in its “pure form”, that is, without changes. But if other dimensions are required (based, for example, on the available space), then you can draw up your own drawing by taking the demonstrated diagrams as a model for assembling certain nodes. The principle still remains the same. If necessary, no one bothers to make their own improvements, which, of course, should not adversely affect the strength of the structure.

Video: locksmith workbench with their farts

If the master plans to mainly engage in locksmith operations, then he will need a completely different workbench, designed specifically for such purposes. Here, in contrast to the carpentry "classics" - an innumerable number of possible options. as a rule, steel profiles (corners, channels, profile pipes) and sheets are used for manufacturing. One of the quite worthy options is shown in the video below:

An important component of working comfort in the workshop is always the optimized arrangement and storage of tools and accessories. But we will not dwell on this, since a separate article is devoted to this topic on the pages of our portal.

How to make the workshop as comfortable as possible for work?

It is convenient when you know where everything is and when the necessary tool is always at hand. So you should pay close attention to the system of cabinets, racks, cabinets, reasonably organized places for storing consumables. This is especially important in cases where the size of the room does not allow "roaming". Questions on our portal have a special publication.

Homemade machines and equipment

As already mentioned, the variety of home-made machines is extremely large, and it is simply impossible to tell about all of them. Therefore, in this section of the article, the reader will be offered several video reviews. And, in addition, in detail, the manufacture of two models of machine tools will be considered step by step.

Video - miniature wood lathe based on an electric drill

In the economy, it often becomes necessary to carve one or another wooden part of a circular cross section. If you do not do this professionally, then acquiring a real lathe is completely unprofitable. And yes, it will take up a lot of space. But to have at your disposal a miniature machine that can be stored in a closet and assembled as needed - never hurts. Moreover, its manufacture is not so difficult.

This can be seen by watching the proposed video. Despite the fact that the author speaks English, all his actions are shown in detail and are quite understandable. And such a machine, guided by this video hint, is within the power of everyone to do.

Video - circular machine based on a manual vertical electric saw

If it becomes necessary to harvest a considerable number of wooden parts of the same size, then nothing better than a stationary circular saw can be invented. And it is quite possible to make such a machine, and, again, in a collapsible version, which, out of uselessness, does not take up almost any space at all.

It will take only a sheet of plywood, a few bars and self-tapping screws. And the main element of the design becomes a hand-held vertical saw

In the plot shown, the master removes part of the protective fence of the manual circular. This is not always necessary. It is quite possible that the free exit of the saw will be enough if it is intended to cut not too thick workpieces.

Pendulum saw from the "Bulgarian" - self-production step by step

When cutting blanks or wood or metal, including shaped or round pipes, high accuracy is often required. Moreover, the accuracy is not only in linear dimensions, but also in the magnitude of the cut angle. A typical example is when it is necessary to accurately cut workpieces for a frame in which the joining of parts is either strictly perpendicular or at an angle of 45 degrees.

A pendulum saw allows you to perform such an operation. The diagram above shows in a simplified form the principle of its design and operation.

In any case, there is a reliable base (bed, frame) that ensures the stability of the machine (pos. 1). In many models, a desktop is organized on top of the bed with a system of guides, stops and clamps that allow you to accurately set the workpiece to be processed. There must be a slot (pos. 2), exactly into which the rotating circle or saw falls.

The support (pos. 3) of the oscillating part of the machine is rigidly attached to the bed. It is equipped with a block of bearings and an axle (pos. 4), relative to which the swinging rocker platform (pos. 5) rotates. An electric drive (pos. 6) is placed on this platform, which transmits rotation directly or through a transmission system (pos. 7) to a cutting tool - a cutting wheel or a circular saw (pos. 8). A lever (pos. 9) or a handle is provided, with which the master can smoothly lower the cutting disc down onto the workpiece fixed on the work table above the slot.

But the possibilities of this tool will become immeasurably wider if a special milling table is made for it. One of the options for such a home-made machine is in the proposed video.

Homemade machine for sharpening cutting tools - step by step

And in the workshop, and in the kitchen, and just around the house, a lot of cutting tools are used that need regular sharpening. Running disc sharpeners for knives give a very short effect of the sharpness of the cutting edge, as they remove metal along the edge of the blade, and according to all the canons it is required - perpendicular to it. When sharpening manually with the help of bars or on a rotating sharpener, it is very difficult to accurately maintain the optimal angle, especially if it is equal along the entire length of the blade. By the way, this full sharpening angle is different for different types of cutting tools - there are many separate publications on the Internet on this topic.

This means that in order to sharpen, for example, a knife, a device is required that would allow applying a force with the translational direction of the flat abrasive perpendicular to the cutting edge consistently along its entire length with a single, pre-inserted angle of inclination. And to provide visual control over the course of formation and sharpening of this cutting edge.

There are many such devices on the market. But if there is a desire, then a similar machine can be made independently, using materials that may be found in a workshop or garage. Yes, if you buy what you need, it will come out quite inexpensively. An example is shown step by step in the table below.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The entire design of the machine, all its parts and assemblies will be somehow mounted on the base - the bed (frame). For its manufacture, a profile pipe of square section 20 × 20 mm is well suited ...
	... with a wall thickness of 2 mm. As it will be clear further, there are no strict proportions of sizes - they proceed from considerations of common sense, the strength of the structure being created, the presence of certain materials.
	Blanks for the frame are cut from the profile pipe with a grinder: two pieces 250 mm long, and two more - 130 mm.
	In this example, the master will adjust the joining sides of the frame at an angle of 45 degrees. This requires a precise cut, so it is best to do it with a cutting machine. If it is not there, nothing prevents making the frame simpler, that is, placing its sides end-to-end. Then, instead of 130 mm, small parts will be only 90 mm, as they will stand between large ones. This will not affect the functionality of the grinding machine in any way - the only thing is that there will be some loss of aesthetics.
	This is how the frame turned out after preparing the details.
	Cut edges can be slightly trimmed, deburred, cleaned with a small chamfer under the weld.
	Then the frame is assembled on one side and welded through with a continuous seam along short vertical joints. The seams are cleaned of slag and polished with a grinder.
	Welded frame corner after stripping. You can, of course, immediately boil on both sides, but the master simply decided to supplement the frame with height-adjustable legs-stands. The operation is optional - it is quite acceptable to install the machine just with the frame on a flat surface. But with coasters, of course, more interesting.
	This adjustable leg with a nut is easy to find in any furniture hardware store. The nuts will just be welded into the corners of the frame.
	Holes are drilled in the corners into which the nuts will be planted before they are scalded.
	The nuts are inserted into the holes - this operation is carried out on all four corners of the bed.
	Now, on one side of the bed (on its small side), it is required to weld nuts, where the vertical stand of the machine will be screwed. To do this, at an equal distance from the corners, at first thin (3 ÷ 4 mm) ...
	- and then - with a drill with a diameter of 10 mm, the upper wall of the frame is drilled.
	Here, stability is important, the stability of the fastening of the assembly, that is, several turns of thread - do not get off. Therefore, elongated M8 nuts will be welded into the holes made. It is advisable to pre-cut their lower edge under the cylinder, so that it fits snugly into the drilled holes.
	In fact, only one such socket is required to mount the machine. But it is better to provide two symmetrical ones - who knows, it may be more convenient for the user in some cases to rearrange the rack to another position. This will take no more than a couple of minutes.
	After that, all nuts are scalded. When tacking, it is necessary to ensure that the nuts do not move and stand evenly. To do this, they can be held by a temporarily screwed long pin, controlling its position perpendicular to the plane of the frame. In addition, this measure reliably protects the thread of the nut from splashing metal on it.
	Here's what happened: on the upper side of the frame - two welded nuts under the racks ...
	... from the bottom - four welded nuts in the corners for screwing in adjustable supports. By the way, if the master has threaded rivets of the required diameter at his disposal (M6 for the supports, and M8 for the rack), then you can get by with them, that is, get away from the operation of welding the nuts.
	The next step is to make a shelf on which the cutting tools will be fixed with a pressure plate. It can be made from a thick steel plate. But the master decided to give it a slight reverse slope, so he cuts it out of a corner with a 63 mm shelf. The length of the part is the width of the bed, that is, 130 mm.
	First, the desired fragment of the corner is cut off. Then he is clamped in a vise to evenly cut off one shelf with a grinder.
	This is how this platform will be welded to the bed.
	After welding, the seam is carefully cleaned.
	Knives and other cutting tools will be fixed on this platform with a pressure plate. And for this it is necessary to prepare two holes with an M8 thread. It is advisable to arrange them wider so that, for example, you can clamp knives from a planer and other cutting parts of a similar plan between them. First, holes are drilled with a small diameter drill - 3 or 4 mm.
	Then - with a drill for M8 thread, that is, with a diameter of 6.7 mm.
	After that, a thread is cut with a tap.
	The next operation is the manufacture of the pressure plate. For her, it is better to take a thick, 3 ÷ 4 mm, stainless steel. It is less prone to deformation than ordinary carbon steel. The size of the plate must correspond to the dimensions of the support platform.
	The edge that will face the cutting edge of the tool is ground on a bevel to prevent it from touching the abrasive during sharpening. Further, two holes for M8 screws are drilled on the plate - strictly coinciding along the axes with the threaded holes in the support platform. These screw holes can be reworked "under the sweat".
	The bed is completely ready, and after stripping and degreasing it can be coated with paint from an aerosol can. While the paint is drying, you can work on other components and parts of the machine.
	For the rack and working bar of the machine, a steel bar with a diameter of 8 mm will be used. First you need to thoroughly clean it - polish it with sandpaper. The master suggested this option - with clamping the rod into the drill chuck and holding the paper in hand. Let's be honest - not quite a safe way.
	Rod after polishing. It is divided into two segments - one with a length of 450 ÷ 500 mm, the second - 250 ÷ 300 mm.
	An M8 thread is cut from one end of each of the bars. On a short bar, a threaded section about 20 mm long is for screwing into a welded-in bed nut.
	On a long bar there is a thread 40÷50 mm long. It is necessary for winding the handle.
	The next step is the manufacture of clamps that will hold the abrasive bar on the rod. They are made from elongated M10 nuts. First you need to mark the center of the through hole with a core, with an indent of 12 mm from the edge.
	Then, very carefully, strictly perpendicular to the axis of the nut, a through hole with a diameter of 8 mm is drilled.
	A quarter must be cut off from the other end of the nut. This is done with a hacksaw in two steps. First, a transverse incision is made to the center ...
	... and then - longitudinal. You need to prepare two such nuts.
	Short M10 locking bolts are screwed into the nuts - and the latches are ready. This is how they will look.
	After that, the clamps are put on the bar. Between them, a whetstone is placed in the cut out quarters, and this entire assembly is fixed with clamping bolts. Everything, the bar is assembled, you can proceed to the next node of the machine.
	The rack should have a node that provides the upper point of support for the bar. In this case, the translational movement of the bar back and forth, and the degree of freedom to the left and right, should be ensured. In a word, this is a kind of hinge, the height of which on the stand will just set the angle of sharpening the cutting edge. This assembly will be made again on the basis of an elongated M10 nut. To begin with, a through hole with a diameter of 8 mm is drilled in it - just like on the nuts, which went to the clamps.
	Then a rather complicated operation follows. It is necessary to first drill a hole with a diameter of 6.7 mm through the head of the M10 bolt, and then cut the M8 thread in it. The bolt itself will be screwed into the nut, and the ring from the anchor will be screwed into the hole. This ring will just act as a hinge.
	This is what the assembly looks like. From the side of the through hole, an M10 bolt is screwed into the nut, with which the assembly will be fixed on a vertical rack.
	I must say that such a hinge in the “light version” is not the most successful, and only the availability of parts justifies it. But the working rod has a rather solid backlash, which can affect the accuracy of maintaining a single sharpening angle along the entire cutting edge of the knife. A more perfect solution would be to use a ready-made fisheye hinge - such parts are presented in a large assortment in online stores, and their cost is not so high. It is quite possible, probably, to do without the complex operation of drilling a hole in the bolt head with subsequent threading - if you are lucky to get a hinge with a suitable threaded part. Then for the connection it will be possible to do with a short hairpin. But for now, we are considering the way the master suggested.
	All parts are ready - you can proceed to the assembly of the machine.
	Support legs are screwed to the bottom of the bed. Their height is immediately adjusted so that the machine stands steadily - at all four points.
	The vertical stand is screwed in.
	A swivel assembly is put on the rack and fixed at a certain height with a clamping bolt.
	A pressure plate is placed on the base plate. Two screws are baited, which will fix the cutting tool in this clamp.
	It remains to thread the free end of the working rod into the hinge ring - and we can assume that the machine is ready.
	The master decided to immediately try it in his work. To begin with, sharpen this knife with a completely “killed” cutting edge.
	The knife is placed between the support platform and the pressure plate. The cutting edge is roughly parallel to the short side of the bed. Fixation is carried out by tightening two screws.
	The working bar is inserted into the hinge. The hinge itself is set in height to ensure the required sharpening angle. The sharpening process begins - first with the first, large bar. As you work, you can observe how a uniform cutting edge is formed along the entire length of the blade.
	Then the bar can be changed to another, with a fine abrasive, to bring the sharpening to the maximum sharpness of the cutting edge.
	The result of the work - first visually ...
	... and now with a demonstration of the degree of sharpening of the cutting edge. A loose sheet of paper is easily cut into strips.
	By changing the height of the hinge assembly, you can similarly sharpen the iron of the planer ...
	...or even the blade of an axe. The machine itself, when temporarily unnecessary, is easy to disassemble by removing the bar and unscrewing the rack. In this form, it will take up very little space in a closet or on a shelf.

It makes sense to add a few more touches.

• Many factory-made models are equipped with a scale that sets the required sharpening angle of the cutting edge. It is easy to come up with a similar device yourself, for example, such as shown in the illustration. A plate perpendicular to the plane of the supporting platform, and a removable ruler with a protractor screwed to it.

After clamping the knife in the clamp, it is enough to attach the ruler to the cutting edge and to the hinge point, combine the central risk of the protractor with the platinum, and take the angle readings using the same platinum, counting it from 90 degrees.

Important - the full sharpening angle is made up of angles on both sides of the blade. That is, if an angle of 30 is required°, then sharpening on one side should be carried out at an angle of 15°.

They act differently - instead of a protractor, you can fix a sector on which signed marks are made in advance, for example, “kitchen knife”, “table knife”, “chisel”, “”, etc. That is, it will be enough to choose the height of the hinge so that the bar coincides with the marked mark.

Another option is the marks on the vertical stand. True, in this case uniformity is required in the placement of knives in the clamp - so that the cutting edge always protrudes at the same distance from the edge. Not quite convenient.

And the easiest option is to make several templates from thick cardboard or thin plywood, signing them for which cutting tool this corner is intended.

In a word, having shown ingenuity, it is easy to significantly simplify bringing the machine to the desired working position.

• You can make a comment on the fastening of the bars. If they are supposed to be changed in the course of sharpening, then they must necessarily have the same thickness, otherwise the angle will change. Many masters advise other approaches. Instead of bars, they have prepared several steel plates of the same size. Abrasive paper is glued onto the plates. Two sides are already two different levels of grit. That is, you can prepare a kit for all stages of sharpening: from the rough formation of the cutting edge to its polishing.

Another interesting idea in this regard is not a plate, but a piece of a profiled square pipe 20 × 20 mm. The four sides are four different abrasives. In the course of work - just turn over the right side ...

• Another nuance: it does not hurt to ensure your own safety at work. It will be very unpleasant if, during forward movement, the hand breaks off - and exactly with your fingers along the cutting edge. So some kind of protective guard will not hurt here, which you can come up with to your taste.

A self-made machine for sharpening tools will certainly be very useful in any household.

* * * * * * *

We can say that in this article we only slightly “digged” the topic of home-made machines and devices. We will be glad if readers send their wishes: which of the tools they would like to see with details - we will try to satisfy their requests. And even better - if one of the amateur craftsmen shares their secrets on the pages of our portal. Published reviews from visitors - without fail paid.

Using such a machine, you can carve balusters for the porch and stairs to the attic, make turned parts for platbands, intricate elements of the exterior and interior decoration of the house, furniture details and much more.

The basis of a wood lathe is a single-phase electric motor with a power of about 1 kW or a three-phase electric motor with a power of about 1.5 kW, connected according to a capacitor circuit. It is better to choose an electric motor with a reduced number of revolutions per minute, no more than 1500 (preferably about 600-800).

It is necessary to tell more about capacitor circuits for connecting three-phase motors to a single-phase network.

There is a large selection of three-phase electric motors, but not all of them are suitable for inclusion in a single-phase network according to a capacitor circuit. So, for example, engines of the AO, A02, D, AOL, APN, UAD and some others series are good for these purposes. There are electric motors with a rated voltage of 127/220 V (the rated voltage of the electric motor is indicated on the passport-label on its body). Such electric motors are connected to a 220 V network through capacitors only according to the "star" scheme (e).

Electric motors with a rated voltage of 220/380 V - according to the "triangle" scheme (D).

To obtain the maximum possible power on the shaft, the electric motors are connected to a single-phase 220 V network according to the scheme shown in fig. 117, a. Switch SA2 allows you to reverse the motor rotor.

For an electric motor with a rated voltage of 220/380 V, made according to the "triangle" scheme, the capacitance of the working capacitor is determined by the formula:
Wed (d) \u003d 4800- (uF).

Starting capacitors (C) in both circuits are chosen with a capacity of 1.5-2.0 times more than the working ones. Capacitors for the above circuits must be paper-insulated (MBGO, MBGP, etc.) and rated for an operating voltage of at least 350 V.

If an electric motor with a rated voltage of 127/220 V, made according to the “star” scheme, has ends brought out to the terminal block (where it is possible to switch the windings), then the scheme (Fig. 1.6) is used, which gives the highest achievable power on the shaft.

The start of the motor is carried out as follows. Press the "Start" button and turn on the "Network" switch. As soon as the electric motor picks up speed, release the "Start" button. If, with the selected working capacitor, the engine becomes very hot during operation, select the best option, reducing or increasing the capacitance of the working capacitor.

A faceplate is installed on the axis of the machine engine (Fig. 2, a). It has a central cone and four adjustable ones. The workpiece is mounted on them and securely fixed. For small parts use a smaller faceplate.

The second end of the workpiece is fixed in the center (Fig. 2.6). It is a corner holder welded from steel 4-5 mm thick. A holder is welded to the holder, into which a ball bearing is inserted with an interference fit. A steel turned bushing with a thread for the center is pressed into the central hole of the ball bearing. The center is a steel pointed rod with a thickness of at least 16 mm with a continuous thread along the entire length and two flats at the end (for turning the center). With the help of three nuts, the center is attached to the sleeve.

The limit washer fits snugly on the pointed end. When installing the machine on a workbench, it is necessary to ensure that the central cone of the faceplate and the center cone are on the same line, that is, they are coaxial. With any movement of the center, this alignment must be strictly observed.

On the workbench during the operation of the machine, handholds are installed (Fig. 2.8). They are usually made in three sizes: long, medium and small. The latter is made so that it can be attached to the workbench at different angles. The cutter rests on the handpiece during operation.

Cutters can be made from flat files (Fig. 2d). The rough (peeled) cutter has a semicircular shape. Its sharpening angle for hard wood is about 25 °, for soft wood - about 35°. Finishing cutters are oblique in plan (with an angle of 70-80°), their sharpening angle is 20-30°. Sometimes finishing cutters are made with one-sided sharpening. The total length of the cutter (with handle) is about 500 mm.

The machine must be equipped with two wooden bars with a section of 80X80 mm, the so-called chippers (Fig. 2, b). They are designed to throw the workpiece to the side if it breaks off the machine.

Before starting work on the machine, a workpiece is selected (preferably without knots, dry). For external parts, aspen is usually used; it withstands external influences well. For internal details, it is better to take linden - it is easily processed. Beech or oak are suitable for critical power parts. Softwoods are poorly processed on a lathe.

Consider, for example, the manufacture of balusters. First, a quadrangular beam is planed. At the ends, a circle is drawn and a rough cylindrical billet is planed with an ax.

The workpiece is attached to the faceplate of the machine so that the cone stands exactly in the center of the marked circle. Lightly hit with a hammer on the other end of the workpiece so that the recesses from all five cones of the faceplate are indicated. According to this marking, five holes are drilled with a drill with a diameter half that of the diameter of each cone at the base. Hole depth - three drill diameters. At the other end, a hole for the center is also drilled according to the marking.

Insert the workpiece into the machine. To do this, with a hammer blow, they put it on the cone of the faceplate until it stops and bring the center under the hole. A lock washer is placed and the center is wrapped so that the lock washer is slightly pressed into the end of the workpiece. Screw the left nut all the way into the sleeve (Fig. 2.6). On the other side of the holder, the first nut is also screwed all the way into the sleeve and the second nut is used to lock it.

Install a long handrail and chippers. Turn on the engine. With a peeling cutter, they begin to remove chips no thicker than 1-2 mm (depending on the hardness of the tree). The incisor is held firmly with both hands and they make sure that it rests on the handpiece all the time (Fig. 2, c). In order for the cutter blade to grind evenly, it is brought to the workpiece at different angles.

The workpiece is processed rough until its diameter is 1.5-2.0 mm larger than planned. Then the work is carried out with a finishing cutter. The cutter is brought to the workpiece as shown in Fig. 2e, and its blade is inclined with respect to the generatrix of the cylinder.

Having received the desired diameter, proceed to mark the balusters along the length using the prepared template. It is driven by the sharp end of the finishing cutter (Fig. 2, f). In the same way, all narrow transitions are machined (Fig. 2, g). The rest of the processing (roundings, conical parts, etc.) is performed with a finishing cutter, as usual (Fig. 2, e). The control is carried out by templates, applying them to the part and ensuring that the outline of the part exactly matches the contours of the template.

The finished part, without removing it from the machine, is polished with abrasive skins (the skin is folded into a narrow strip and, holding by the edges, is brought to the part). Finally, the part is polished with wood shavings: holding a handful of shavings in your hand, press it against the surface of the rotating part.

Yu.M. Isaev, Kanash, Chuvash Republic

This material is a translation of a magazine article Fine Wood Working #57″ Low-Cost Wooden Longbed. It describes the author's experience of building a simple homemade lathe for wood without the use of any welding or complex structures. We hope the material will be useful to you, comments and comments can be left at the end of the article.

I designed and built this machine with versatility in mind - you can turn everything from chess pieces and chair bars to high bedposts.

Glued together from yellow pine frame lumber, Lynch's lathe cost less than $200 in materials. The 10.5' bed can handle workpieces up to 8'. With a rail fixed in the slotted cutouts on the bed, you can turn the machine on and off from any part of the bed

Materials cost $179.25 including $30 for a used half horsepower engine, but not including some plywood and oak scraps left over from other work. The spindles are made from structural steel tubing that I threaded and counterbore to #2 Morse taper to accept standard Delta turning accessories.

Doubting that I could find sufficiently massive, inexpensive blanks, I decided to glue three-inch kiln-dried southern yellow pine wood pieces, two 2x10-inch boards, four 2x8-inch boards, and one 2x6-inch board, each 12 feet long. My local building material supplier let me search through their stock to find straight-grained, not too knotty pieces.

In addition to the availability of standard 2-inch lumber, laminated timber has other advantages over solid wood. Until the final gluing, most of my work was easier than if I were fiddling with a solid array - I was only lifting half of each piece at a time. Plus, multilayer parts are stronger and more dimensionally stable than solid wood products.

Each of the rails is made from two pieces of 2x8" board (1.5" x 7" when cut to size) as shown in the picture below. After temporarily screwing the rails together, I pressed the supports against each rail to make sure each one was perpendicular. I drilled the holes for the carriage bots in the rails with an electric drill with a long bit guided by the bolt holes in the uprights. I then glued, bolted and clamped the posts and rails together.

Machine drawing. All dimensions are in inches. To view in high resolution - open in a new window.
2 - one four-strand stepped pulley with a 1-inch hole with diameters of 3, 4, 5 and 6 inches and a pulley mounted on the motor shaft. (manufactured by Browning Mfg., Emerson Electric Co. , P.O. Box 687, Maysville, Ky. 4 1056)
2 - 1" bore flanged bearing (Fafnir RCJ, manufactured by Fafnir Bearing Div. of Textron Inc., 37 Booth St., New Britain, CT06050)
1 - 12" tool rest (Delta part no. 46-692; Delta lathe parts are available from local Delta dealers or can be ordered by calling Delta International, 1-800-223-7278.)
1 - 6" faceplate, 1-in.-8 threaded (Delta accessory P/N 46-937)
1 - Movable rotating center # 2 M.T. (Delta accessory cat. no. 46-933)
1 - Fixed Center #2 M.T. (accessory Delta cat. no. 46-439)
1 - Headstock spindle; 16 inches by l inch OD structural steel tubing
1 - Tailstock spindle; 15 inches by l inch outside diameter from structural steel tubing

The headstock tie-down was slip-fitted between the headstock legs and rails and attached to the headstock leg with two 0.5x5" capercaillie (tapered wrench screws) with washers.

Each leg is made from two pieces 2×6 (now 1.5×5 inches). I marked the blind slots for the spikes of the supports, unscrewed the pieces and cut slots in each half. The leg halves were then glued, screwed and clamped together, then cut to shape with a bandsaw after drying.

The tailstock consists of two vertical posts attached to the base with a dovetail joint. On a band saw, I cut 10° tails into the base. I cut the tongue and groove studs on a circular saw, setting the trim adjuster to 80° and placing the board on the butt. The remaining three parts of the tailstock shown in the drawing are glued to these three parts. On the bottom of the base, I screwed an oak guide block the same width as the gap between the guides, so that the tailstock moves smoothly on the guides without any distortion.

To find the position of the headstock spindle hole on its inner stand, I assembled the machine and leveled the bed in both planes using spacers under the legs.

I put the ruler on the guides and lowered the plumb bob, fixed over the post, to the center point between the guides, as shown in the picture on the previous page, and then marked the center. I dismantled the machine and drilled holes on the drill press for a 1" and 1/8" spindle on the inner post, 1" and 1/4" on the outer post.

To mount the spindle, I pressed one of the flange support bearings against the inner strut, inserted the spindle, and secured the outer bearing. I inserted the live center into the inner end of the spindle, and using a plumb bob, square and a short spirit level on the spindle, moved the inner flanged bearing until it aligned and centered the spindle in the headstock post. When this succeeded, I pressed the inner flange of the block into place.

A wooden lath pressed under the flanged bearing provided extra support while I drilled through one of the four mounting holes in the bearing to drill holes for the bolts. After securing the corner with a bolt, I drilled and installed the bolts in the corners diagonally opposite. I moved the rotating center to the outer end, centered and screwed the bearing into place. With the headstock spindle in place, I tightened the locking collars (supplied with the bearings) that hold the spindle in the bearings.

To mark the center for the tailstock spindle, I placed the live center on the headstock spindle and advanced the tailstock along the bed until it collided with the live center. Using the resulting dent as a center, I drilled an inch hole in the inner tailstock post and an inch and a quarter hole in the outer tailstock post on the drill press.

I screwed a steel plate with a threaded hole onto the threads of the tailstock spindle and inserted the spindle into the holes in the tailstock. After centering the tailstock spindle, I moved the tailstock towards the front to adjust the alignment. With the tailstock spindle aligned and level with the tailstock spindle, I clamped the steel plate in place and screwed two #8 self-tapping screws into diagonally opposite 11/64-inch diameter holes in the plate, rechecked the alignment, and installed the other two self-tapping screws.

Then, in two steps, I removed the self-tapping screws, drilled out the quarter-inch holes, and replaced the self-tapping screws with quarter-inch, 4-inch-long hex bolts. I made the tailstock spindle handle out of a piece of strip iron, but a flywheel would have been better.

0.5 HP engine rests on a plywood platform, fixed on the back of the bed with a piece of iron corner and a wooden brace. The weight of the motor provides tension to the belt. A 3/4" piece of webbing and an eccentric lever reduce the load on the belt to make speed changes easier, as shown in the photo above on the left.

A sofa spring under the engine acts as a damper to take away slight engine vibration. A twenty-amp, single-pole, single-throw toggle switch is installed on the front side of the bed. Cutouts in the 84" long 3/4" wooden rail allow the toggle switch to be operated from anywhere along the bed.

The picture shows a wooden base with a flange and a short piece of pipe that holds standard Delta tool rests. A 30-inch wooden hand rest can also be made for long workpieces.

High bedposts and Sheraton style table legs, often cane-shaped, fluted or carved, require a graduated ring, not shown in the drawing. The birch plywood ring is attached to the left side of the inner stud as shown in the photo on the top right. With the belt removed from the engine pulley, to prevent the lathe from accidentally turning on, a pointer was fixed to the headstock spindle so that an 8D nail could be inserted through any of the five holes in the pointer to connect it to one of the five concentric circles of holes . Counting from the outer circumference of the circle, the number of holes in each is 60, 11, 9, 7 and 8. The circles were scratched by holding a nail against the plywood circle and turning the spindle. With the help of a measuring compass, I found the correct interval by trial and error.

The headstock spindle rotates in flanged bearings bolted to the headstock struts. The weight of the ½ horsepower electric motor provides belt tension. Pushing the lever forward pulls a strip of webbing to raise the motor and reduce the load on the belt to change speed. A sofa spring under the engine dampens vibration. A calibrated birch plywood ring (above) is screwed onto the inside of the headstock inner post. With the belt removed from the motor pulley, a pointer was attached to the headstock spindle so that an 8D nail could be inserted through any of the five holes in the pointer to connect it to one of the five concentric rows.

The long spindle needed to be protected from "beating" when rotating, so I made a stable steady, as shown in the figure. I carefully and slowly turned long pieces to a smooth cylinder a couple of inches in the middle before turning the whole piece. Then I set the hickory lunette against this smooth surface, turned on the machine, and touched with paraffin to lubricate the friction spot.

I finished the loom with shellac, the only finish that prevents resin from leaking out of defects and knots. The lathe was bolted to the floor with iron angles to reduce vibration.

Carlyle Lynch is a former lecturer, cabinetmaker, and designer in Broadway, Virginia.

Any real woodworker has or dreams of having a lathe at home. But, unfortunately, for most carpenters and turners, their own budget does not allow them to purchase a finished model and install it at home. In this case, you can make a machine on your own from quite affordable materials.

Manufacturing features

Do-it-yourself home-made wood lathes are made quite easily and simply, if you know in principle what a lathe is and what it consists of. A small unit with dimensions of about 80x40 centimeters in length and width with a height of 35 centimeters does not take up much space, but allows you to process workpieces with a diameter of up to 25 centimeters and a length of 20-40 centimeters.

The lathe gives unlimited possibilities in the manufacture of dishes, furniture, decor elements.

Thanks to him, you can make any product in the form of bodies of revolution for your own use or during construction and other works.

Machine elements

A do-it-yourself lathe has an extremely simple design and only important ingredients:

• electric motor - it is used as a machine drive, you can take the motor from the pump;
• the headstock, which is an outdated electric grinder for 2 stones;
• support for incisors to regulate and support them;
• tailstock, which is made from an old unnecessary drill.
• a frame made of a welded metal profile (welded so that a gap forms along the entire length before fixing with bolts).

To make your own machine, the simplest tools will be enough:

• electric drill;
• files;
• angle grinder (grinder) for cutting and stripping;
• electric welding with electrodes of 2 and 3 meters.

Materials needed for the machine:

• metal profile;
• metal corner;
• two pipes of different diameters for backup;
• drive belt (can be taken from an old car);
• fasteners.

Manufacturing features

The headstock must have an axis of rotation that is located at the optimum height, as well as thrust bearings to protect it.

Headstock homemade wood lathe

Included with the headstock should be washers for attaching disk abrasives. Two washers on the left will fasten discs with different diameters, which will allow you to adjust the speed. On the right, with the help of a washer, a faceplate for mounting the blank is attached.

Such a lathe has one drawback: the headstock does not move, since there is no corresponding mechanism. But it can be moved by fixing it with a nut.

The cartridge should be chosen so that it is convenient to use. A frame is made of metal channels, to which a support must be attached in the middle. To make it adjustable, two tubes of different diameters are used, one of which (narrower) is inserted into a wider one.

The scheme of the cartridge of a homemade lathe for wood.

In some cases, for work on a lathe, the motor is not used at all, then the disks can not be changed and the belt can not be used. The choice of disks for changing on the headstock must be made based on the optimal speed for different types of wood. For this, there are tables and graphs showing the dependence of the optimal diameter of the pulley (disk) and the speed of the headstock. At the same time, for different types of tree, the indicators will differ.

Pulleys should be made of plywood, it is better to take material 10 millimeters thick and knock it down in two layers. Thus, the pulley has an optimal thickness of 20 millimeters. It is attached to a rubberized chuck on an electric motor, which, when connected, act as a drive pulley. Before turning, the faceplate is wound onto the grinding axis after the blank has been installed.

The motor requires a separate mount, it is better to use a separate platform for it. It is also necessary to foresee the mechanism of movement of this platform, so that when replacing the pulley on the headstock, the length of the belt is enough for work.

To work with wooden blanks, cutters are used. They can be purchased in a ready-made set, where there are 5-10 incisors, and sometimes even more than 15 pieces. At times, scales are made independently, if the technology is known.

For different types of processing and different types of wood, specific types of cutters are used.
Almost any craftsman, even a beginner, can make a regular lathe for turning.

The main thing is to observe safety precautions and be careful in work.

Video: Lathe Making Guide

Wood is the most practical and natural material from which household items, furniture and even children's toys can be made. In addition, many residential and non-residential buildings are being built from wood. Therefore, many "homemade" are not averse to having woodworking machines for the home workshop. They can be purchased at a specialized store or made independently from improvised materials. Let's talk in more detail about the second method of arranging your own corner for work.

The variety of woodworking machines for the home workshop is wide. Each has its own purpose and ways to assemble a homemade version. Among all the options there are narrowly focused and with a large number of functions, but with a modest size:

• Universal household. These are mini devices for processing wood elements. Used at home or in the backyard. Such a small unit performs several functions at the same time, therefore it is very popular with "homemade" ones.

• Multifunctional for your own carpentry workshop. Can be used in small production.
• Turning machines are used to create wooden products by turning. There are compact options that do not take up much space in the garage.
• For the production of doors and windows, milling models are used.
• To plan the boards you will need a thicknessing machine.
• Copy-milling machines are used to create products of unusual shapes.
• Jointers can plan a blank on one side.

Many other options for do-it-yourself woodworking machines are made according to schemes. Among the popular fixtures that are very useful in the home workshop, there are:

• lathe;
• circular saw;
• milling equipment;
• thicknessing machine;
• grinding and jointing option.

Consider the features of each carpentry fixture and options for self-assembly of such equipment for your woodworking mini-workshop.

Features of a wood lathe for a home workshop

A lathe is an indispensable thing in the workshop of those who like to work with natural wood. Using it, you can make a corrugated surface or bore holes, as well as cut out real works of art of the most unusual shapes.

Structurally, the machine for wood differs from the turning version for metal in the absence of a cooling system. In this case, the rotation speed of the main element is less, but there is a power adjustment. Below are a few drawings with the dimensions of a do-it-yourself wood lathe:

Often, for their workshops, "homemade" make turning and copying machines for wood with their own hands. They are used to produce a large number of identical parts, such as fence posts or stair railings. Here are examples of finished machines in workshops:

A video about a homemade woodworking machine with your own hands will help you understand the assembly sequence and the selection of the tools necessary for work:

Ways to assemble homemade wood lathes with your own hands with photo examples

They make mini-turning machines for wood with their own hands, which take up little space in the garage or will be placed in a room in a city apartment. Here are some examples of ready-made devices from "homemade" ones:

Thinking about how to make wood lathes yourself, first, select the appropriate drawing. Then, prepare materials and fixtures to create your own unit. During the manufacturing process, the device will come in handy:

• bed;
• front and rear racks;
• electric motor;
• leading and managed centers;
• tool holder.

Important! For a homemade machine, a motor with a power of up to 250 W and a speed of up to 1500 is enough. For larger elements, choose another version of the “engine” with greater performance.

To assemble all the elements into one design, you will need a drill, a file, a small angle grinder and a welding machine. Below is the instruction for assembling the mini lathe:​

Illustration	Sequencing
	Choose a sharpener for wood or make it yourself, but so that you don’t have to change it later. Use a high axle position with sealed bearings and a washer to secure the discs. On one side of the axis, you install disks that control the speed of rotation, on the other, a faceplate for working with wood.
	The bed is made of two parallel channels, between which there is a guide. The length of the blanks directly depends on the dimensions of the guide. On one side of it, weld a channel in the form of the letter "P", and close the other end with a metal corner.
	The caliper can be assembled from several pipes inserted into each other so that the height can be adjusted. Fixing the desired position is carried out with the help of bolts. Use a horizontal bar as a stop. Observe all dimensions from the drawings.
	An old drill chuck acts as a pulley. The driven elements are assembled from plywood in two layers. The faceplate is also made from plywood. Install the metal base on the supports. At the location of the headstock, you collect the platform. It can also be made from plywood. On the site, fix the electric motor.
	You fix the motor on a small plate to change the belt tension. When all the elements are assembled according to the scheme, check the operability of the device and proceed to active use.

There are many ways to assemble homemade equipment. Choose the right one based on the availability of material and the required performance.

The specifics of cutters for a wood lathe

Cutters are one of the main elements of a lathe. The area and depth of the surface to be removed from the part depends on their choice. They consist of a cutting part and a section for fixing on the equipment.

The cutting edge has one or more surfaces. And the main indicator of the incisors is the width of the blade, its shape and the ability to adjust. All models are divided into two subgroups:

• radial, installed perpendicularly and aimed at removing a large surface;
• tangential: for tangent processing and the formation of complex patterns.

When making cutters for a wood lathe on your own, follow a few rules:

1. The length of the working surface should be within 20-30 cm. This size provides a secure grip on the tool and enough space to place it on the stop. And also you will provide a reserve for regular sharpening.
2. In order for the blade to be firmly attached to the handle, a tail of sufficient length should be left. If you are making a cutter from a file or rasp, then lengthen the tail by 1.5 - 2 p.
3. The thickness of the working case must be sufficient to withstand the shocks during the primary processing of parts.
4. The length of the handle made of wood or plastic is 25 cm. Otherwise, it is inconvenient to hold such a tool in your hands.

See the video for making a homemade cutter:

We make a stationary circular saw with our own hands

You can buy a finished stationary circular saw from 9 thousand rubles. It will ensure proper work safety and save time on sawing wood. But, you can not spend money and make your own machine according to drawings and blanks.

Despite the external complexity of the design, it is not so difficult to assemble it yourself at home. Any stationary saw model consists of several elements:

• table;
• disc with teeth;
• engine;
• side stop with the possibility of adjustment;
• shaft.

To assemble all the parts of a circular saw, prepare:

• metal sheet from 8 mm thick;
• metal corner 45 by 45 mm;
• electric motor;
• disk with teeth;
• ball bearing;
• apparatus for welding;
• a block of wood;
• a piece of plastic or the remains of a laminate.

In order to correctly make all the elements, it is worth choosing a drawing, which will indicate the dimensions of the table for a hand-held circular saw with your own hands, as well as all other dimensions and materials for work. Here are some examples of ready-made schemes:

The assembly of the structure itself will follow a certain plan, regardless of the chosen scheme:

Illustration	Sequence of work
	The tabletop must be made strong and stable. Use a sheet of metal according to your size. If you plan to install other devices on the table, then arrange a place for them with thick plywood.
	When making a guide for a circular saw with your own hands, pay attention to its height. It should protrude 12 cm above the table. So you will be able to process the boards in width and thickness. To make a guide, take two pieces of a corner and a clamp.
	Make the central saw with the possibility of height adjustment.
	For the motor, mount a separate platform on the same axis as the rocker arm. Fix it on a bolt with a diameter of 1.5 cm. Install a metal plate on the side of the saw, after making a hole in it through which a bolt with fixed handles passes.

For more on making a stationary circular saw, see the video:

We make a circular saw from a grinder with our own hands: drawings and manufacturing videos

To create a circular with your own hands, you need to prepare an engine from a grinder, a shaped rectangular pipe and steel corners. To get a real comfortable saw, it is worth considering an emphasis, an axial handle and rods for adjustment.

Here are a few do-it-yourself stand drawings for a grinder. On them you can assemble an emphasis that ensures the sliding of the saw.

The order of assembly of the stop will be as follows:

1. Several metal corners are needed for the standard stop in the form of the letter "T". They are placed at a distance of 3-4 mm on each side of the disk.
2. The bottom edges must be rounded so that there are no scratches on the workpiece during operation.
3. Attach the corners with cross braces on the bolts and nuts in front and on the back side. The slots are fixed with washers.
4. Put a metal clamp on the body. Fasten the elements at the back so that the stop post and the collar become one.
5. Drill 2-4 mounting holes in the gearbox housing. It is more convenient to do this in the disassembled state of the element.

After assembling the stop, make an axial handle and an adjusting rod. Watch a video on how to make a frame for a grinder with your own hands according to the drawings:

After connecting all the elements, your homemade grinder circular will be ready. In addition to it, you can make various parts. Here are some photos of do-it-yourself circular saw fixtures:

We make a wood milling machine for a home workshop

Milling machines are necessary for working with shaped parts made of wood. They are used for flat milling and profile processing. Professional equipment is multifunctional and costs a lot of money, so more and more "homemade" assemble such equipment for workshops and garages on their own.

The package of homemade milling machines for wood includes:

1. Driving mechanism. This is an engine whose power ranges from 1-2 kW. With such a motor, you can use various tools for working with wood without fear that a failure will occur.
2. Elevator to adjust. It usually includes a body, sliding skids, carriages, a fixing screw and a threaded axle. During operation, the carriage moves up and down, and the screw is needed to fix it at the required level.
3. Support. The table is made from solid wood.

Before assembly, be sure to draw up a detailed drawing with all dimensions. For manual milling machines for wood, you need to think through everything in advance to the smallest detail.

The sequence of self-assembly of a convenient and practical wood milling machine for a home workshop is described in the video instruction:

If you are thinking about buying your own equipment, and not about self-assembly, then to understand how much a manual wood milling machine costs, look at the table with models and prices:

Model name	Specifications		Cost, rub.
Milling table Kraton MT-20-01	site size	64 by 36 cm	6 400
	possibility of vertical work	There is
	equipment weight	15.7 kg
Milling machine Corvette-83 90830	engine power	750 W	38 000
	transmission type	belt
	spindle speed	11,000 rpm
	vertical stroke	2.2 cm
	spindle diameter	12.7mm

Mikhail, Volgograd:“I purchased a table for the Kraton MT-20-01 machine. Inexpensive and convenient. Moreover, it is compatible with different models of equipment.

Dmitry, Moscow:“I bought myself a Corvette 83 90830 for my home. Attracted by the small size and engine power. It has been working well for over a year now.

In online stores and specialized departments, there are many models of wood milling machines, but the cost of a complete set rarely drops below 30 thousand rubles. That is why many "samdelkins" assemble equipment for their workshop on their own.

We make a CNC milling machine with our own hands

You can make your own CNC equipment with your own hands. To do this, select the appropriate CNC wood router drawings. With your own hands, you will need to assemble the model strictly according to them.

Simple and neat machine for the garage Professional equipment Variety of working tools

• Table with a frame for the machine. The tabletop must be perfectly flat and stable to withstand vibrations during operation.
• Knife shaft. The main part of the structure responsible for the processing of wood blanks. The pulley rotation speed should be 4000 - 7000 rpm.
• Adjustment bolts and workpiece feeder.

To properly manufacture equipment, use the thickness gauge drawings. It is necessary to assemble the structure with your own hands strictly according to them.

Video instruction on how to make do-it-yourself thicknessers from an electric planer

To assemble a thickness gauge from a plane with your own hands, prepare:

• electric planer, which is not a pity to remake into another tool;
• detailed drawing for work;
• plywood and bars for the body.

When the preparatory stage is completed, you can proceed to the direct assembly, which will take about an hour for a person who skillfully handles the tool:

Features of a do-it-yourself wood grinder

After sawing a tree, it must be sanded and only then proceed to the construction of buildings or the construction of other objects. In total, there are several varieties of grinding machines:

• Disk. The working surface is made in the form of a circle, on which sandpaper or other grinding device is fixed on top. You can adjust the processing speed without changing the number of revolutions.

• Tape. A continuous strip of sandpaper is stretched between two shafts. It is not difficult to make belt grinders with your own hands, it is enough to prepare a detailed drawing and read the instructions. It is important that the emery in the working surface does not sag under the weight of the workpiece.

• Drum grinders on wood are common among joiners. Used for horizontal alignment of planes according to the jointer method. The principle of operation is to fix the "sandpaper" on one or two drums, and under them there is a table with height adjustment. You can set the required calibration and make workpieces of the same thickness.

• Sanding and calibration machines for wood- universal machines that combine grinding and leveling workpieces. Two types of hardware are used: disk and tape. Such a device can be made independently, with the right choice of drawings.

To correctly assemble a suitable version of the machine for grinding and processing wood, select the appropriate drawing and all accessories. Below are a few examples of available and convenient equipment schemes:

Features of do-it-yourself planers for wood

The planer for working with wood is used at the final stage of working with elements. It is able to make the surface perfectly smooth and even. Most purchased models are equipped with a thickness gauge, which allows you to make the thickness of the entire workpiece the same length.

A wood planer for home, both home-made and purchased, includes several elements in the design:

• bed;
• planing shaft;
• table regulator;
• motor.

To assemble a jointer with your own hands, you first need to determine the dimensions and prepare a detailed drawing. Here are some examples from "homemade":

To create the simplest jointer, without additional functions, follow the following sequence of actions:

1. Prepare all the details and tools for work, as well as a traced drawing.
2. Make blanks to exact dimensions. Please note that the place for installing the bearings is prepared from several elements.
3. Prepare a place for installation for the selected motor. You can fix the unit on a skid.
4. Assemble the rotor with bearings, install in place according to the scheme. At the same time, immediately connect the engine using a belt drive. The rotor must rotate freely.
5. Assemble the work surface from two parts: the supply and the receiving. The second is slightly higher (by 2-5 mm). For arrangement, you can use multilayer plywood or metal sheets.

For a complete understanding of the work in progress, watch the video

There was a period in the history of Russia when doing something with one's own hands was a fashionable activity. In the houses-museums of many famous personalities, one can find furniture and other household items made by the owners in their free time from literary and state activities. As you know, Peter I was a great lover of tinkering, having mastered many crafts in his life (carpentry, weapons, soldering, watchmaking, printing). The Russian tsar was famous for his ability to turn wooden parts on a lathe. Under the leadership of Peter the Great, Russia was building a navy at an accelerated pace, and the ships of those times had an abundance of turned parts, so, probably, Peter I could not help but master this craft.

Unfortunately, in our time, standard angular furniture has replaced elegant chiseled products, leaving the latter a place in museums and collectors' apartments. However, the chiseled elements of platbands, cornices and stairs of wooden and stone houses built by our grandfathers and great-grandfathers are still pleasing to the eye. And the very process of manufacturing turned parts evokes a unique range of feelings when you watch how, against the background of a rough workpiece, the contours of graceful bodies of rotation begin to appear, the shape of which depends on the slightest movements of the cutter in the hand of the master, and the thin shavings coming out from under the cutter spread the delicate aroma of wood ( However, a lot of dust is also formed).

Here, to feel all these delights of turning, as well as to obtain the necessary parts, you will need a wood lathe. Of course, unlike the era of Peter the Great, the item will be set in motion not by the master's foot, but by an electric motor. All other elements of the machine remained basically without major changes. So, consider the device of the simplest machine for wood (Fig. 1).

Wood lathe

Its main parts are a drive with a leading center, as well as a driven center, mounted on the tailstock. The purpose of the leading center is to transfer rotation from the motor shaft to the workpiece being processed.

The driven center, pressing the workpiece against the leading center, holds it in the working position. The drive consists of an electric motor and a mechanism for transmitting rotation (belt, clutch, gearbox), however, it is possible to manufacture a machine without additional mechanisms for transmitting rotation from the engine to the workpiece. So, the tasks of the leading center are: to transfer rotation from the drive to the workpiece, to center the workpiece and fix it in this position until the end of processing. For “frontal” machines, that is, with one leading center, the latter provides both centering and fastening of the workpiece using a three- or four-jaw chuck or faceplate (Fig. 2).

The purpose of the center with a tailstock is to center the workpiece and clamp it in the axial direction. It is clear that the leading center and the center of the tailstock should be located on the same center line.

Rigid fastening of both centers is provided by the frame (bed) of the machine (see Fig. 1). It, in addition to rigid fixation of the centers, allows you to move the tailstock in the axial direction. An emphasis (handguard) for the cutter is also installed on the frame. It is necessary that the stop be easy to move both parallel and perpendicular to the axis of the machine and securely fasten it in the right place. The height of the handpiece is made such that the cutter, when cutting, is located in a horizontal plane passing through the axis between the centers, although the cutter may also be located above this axis. In this case, tangential turning will be carried out (Fig. 3).

Please note that the force to hold the cutter in the second case is slightly greater than in the first. I must make a reservation right away that the foregoing is the result of the experience I have gained in my home workshop, therefore deviations from the generally accepted provisions of theory and practice are possible. At this time, I have made four models of machine tools (for different purposes), three of them turned out to be successful, and one, alas, did not live up to expectations. Based on the results of this activity, some conclusions were drawn. I think that they will be useful to those who decide to make a machine for turning wood. The main motive for my further presentation will be the topic: “Making a wood lathe with your own hands with a minimum set of tools and with a minimum consumption of materials”.

When developing the design of the machine, it is necessary to determine the minimum and maximum dimensions of future products. If these are turned parts for various auto or aircraft models, then it is desirable to have a machine of one size, if interior and furniture elements, then others. The dimensions of the part are also decisive for the choice of drive power and machine design. The shape of the details also matters. For example, for turning parts whose diameter exceeds the length of the workpiece (plate), it is better to have a machine only with a leading center, on the spindle of which a chuck or faceplate is installed (see Fig. 2).

Now consider in more detail the design of the machine. The drive motor is designed to rotate the part, and the engine must provide enough force on the shaft to cut the wood fibers. In industrial machines, gearboxes are provided, with the help of which different speeds of rotation of workpieces are set. In a homemade simple machine, you can adjust the spindle speed using pulleys of different diameters in the transmission. However, this greatly complicates the design of the machine and increases the cost of materials and funds. By the way, the presence of several speeds on the machine is generally not necessary, because by spending a little more time on processing the part, it is usually possible to obtain the quality of the machined surface is almost the same as when turning on a multi-speed machine. Having decided not to complicate my life with pulleys and belts, I simply installed a leading center on the motor shaft, that is, the motor shaft became the support shaft (spindle) of the machine. I will talk about the installation of a leading center or faceplate on the motor shaft, as well as some refinement of the engine below. In the meantime, let's talk about the types of electric motors that are suitable for a lathe.

About electric motors for wood lathe

AC commutator motors for the machine are not entirely desirable, since without a load on the shaft at the rated supply voltage, they go into "spacing" (uncontrolled increase in speed). The fact is that with a weak impact of the cutter on the workpiece or in the absence of such an impact at all (when removing thin chips, for example), the workpiece gains such high speed that it can be pulled out of the centers of the machine by centrifugal forces, which, of course, is very dangerous for the worker. Therefore, commutator motors can only be installed with a gearbox or with an electronic speed controller. A variant of a lathe with a gearbox is a machine based on a household electric drill. An engine with an electronic speed controller is suitable, however, the "behavior" of the workpiece during turning does not allow in this case to obtain high-quality machining results. For a small modeler's lathe (the size of the part is larger than a match and smaller than a standard pencil), a DC collector motor is quite suitable. It can be a microelectric motor from a tape recorder or from children's toys. Only here you will have to add another power supply to the drive, which provides the voltage necessary for the electric motor.

For a wood lathe working with workpieces with a diameter of about 100 mm and a length of 700 ... 800 mm, it is better to choose an asynchronous AC motor with a power of 250 to 1000 watts. The power characteristics of such engines allow them to provide a stable shaft speed in a certain load range, and they do not allow an increase in speed above the nameplate in the absence of load. And the acoustic noise of asynchronous motors is less than that of collector motors. Some of their shortcomings (small starting torque, reduction in rotational speed under heavy load) for a simple lathe are not only not noticeable, but to some extent even useful. As you know, for most asynchronous AC motors, the shaft speed is usually from 1800 to 3000 rpm (specific figures depend on the type of motor), but more than 3000 rpm for structural reasons cannot be. It seems to me that such characteristics of asynchronous motors allow them to be used for lathes without complex gears, and the motor shaft is capable of performing the duties of a machine spindle. True, you will have to work a little on an asynchronous motor designed for a machine tool. The fact is that the bearings installed in the electric motor are mainly designed for radial loads, that is, acting on the motor shaft at a right angle (Fig. 4, a). In a lathe, a force directed along the axis of the shaft also acts on the shaft (this force occurs when the workpiece is fastened between the leading and rear centers). Under the influence of such a force, bearing wear is faster. There are two options for solving this problem: to have a pair of new similar bearings in stock or to slightly modify the engine by installing an additional support on it that would compensate for the force acting along the shaft axis. For this purpose, a support bearing (thrust bearing) is installed on the motor housing for the shaft, which consists of a steel ball suitable for the diameter of the technological hole, usually already present at the end of the shaft, a steel plate and a clamping screw with a lock nut (Fig. 4, b). The types of electric motors are different, so I don’t give the dimensions of the thrust bearing, but I will limit myself to only the main idea. I repeat, most often there is already a technological hole in the end of the shaft, so it remains only to choose a ball for it. The depth of the hole should be such that the ball enters it by 1/3 of its diameter. A similar hole is made at the end of the clamping screw. A bearing support is fixed on the engine housing - a plate made of steel 3 ... 5 mm thick. The plate has a threaded hole for the clamping screw. The alignment of the holes in the plate and the end of the shaft is carried out as accurately as possible. With a screw, the ball is pressed with some force to the hole in the shaft, and with the help of a lock nut, the screw is fixed in the desired position. There are other options for fixing the clamping screw, which depend on the type of electric motor. The only condition is the rigidity of the thrust bearing design. If there is no rigidity, there will be no benefit from this bearing.

About Leading Center of Wood Lathe

The shape and method of making the leading center is a matter of taste and the capabilities of the master, so we will limit ourselves to considering only three of its types.

The center is made of a steel thin-walled tube (Fig. 5, a). A steel tube is selected for it, which is put on the motor shaft with some effort. Before that, “teeth” in the shape of a triangle are formed at one end of the tube using a metal saw and a file. This center has only one plus - ease of manufacture, but there are several disadvantages: the impossibility of quick dismantling (although this issue is removed when installing the tube on the shaft using a thread); the impossibility of installing a workpiece whose diameter is smaller than the inner diameter of the tube; the operation of the machine in this case is possible only with two centers.

The center is a faceplate (Fig. 5, b). Screws with M4 or M5 thread sharpened on a cone are inserted into the radially located holes of the faceplate and locked with nuts. It is clear that the tips of the screws act as the teeth of the center of the tube. When working with one central screw, screws are passed through the remaining holes in the faceplate, which fasten the workpiece to the faceplate. An additional center from a tube for parts of small diameters is often installed in the central hole of the faceplate. The main disadvantage of the faceplate is that when machining parts with a diameter smaller than that of the faceplate, it is necessary to install a protective cover over the faceplate.

The center is the simplest cartridge (Fig. 5, c). The design of the center is clear from the figure. The main disadvantages: the complexity of manufacturing a cartridge and the need to process the end of the workpiece to fit the inner diameter of the cartridge.

It is desirable that all types of centers be interchangeable, provide sufficient rigidity for fixing the workpiece and do not have sharp protruding parts.

About wood lathe frame

The option of mounting the electric motor on the frame depends on the design of the engine. And when installing the electric motor on the frame, the following circumstances must be taken into account: the motor shaft is oriented parallel to the side (long) edges of the machine frame; the height of the shaft position above the frame (see Fig. 1), as well as the distance from the stop for the cutter to the workpiece, determine the maximum diameter of the workpiece; the engine mounting on the frame must be rigid, but at the same time allow a slight adjustment of the engine position; for processing short parts of large diameter, it is necessary to provide for fastening the stop for the cutter across the frame (see Fig. 2), organizing the so-called “frontal” turning; for an engine with an open design, it is necessary to make a casing from thin tin; on the motor shaft, a retainer should be provided (a through hole for the rod or a turnkey groove), which would allow holding the shaft when changing centers; the power switch is installed in an accessible, but safe zone of the machine, so that the hand, when turning on (off) the machine, does not fall into the zone of rotation of the center and the workpiece.

About the rear (slave) center of the lathe

To fasten a long workpiece in the machine, it is necessary to have, in addition to the leading center, also a clamping fixed (less often rotating) center, which is located on the tailstock of the machine (see Fig. 1). The tailstock is a rigid structure that can be moved along the frame. Usually the fixed center is made of a bolt, the threaded end of which is sharpened in the form of a cone. Accordingly, the tailstock has an internal thread for the bolt. Thus, by rotating the bolt - the center in the tailstock, it is possible to clamp the workpiece between both centers.

Of course, the center - the bolt must be on the same axis as the leading center. Taking into account the fact that the tailstock can be moved towards or away from the leading center, a 20 ... 30 mm stroke of the center-bolt is enough to clamp a workpiece of one or another length between the centers. The diameter and thread of the screw - the center are determined by the dimensions of the workpiece, but even for workpieces with a diameter of 100 mm, it is enough to have a screw with a diameter of 10 ... 12 mm. As already mentioned, the end of the screw is machined into a cone and then ground. When pressing the workpiece, it is advisable to lubricate the screw cone with any machine oil.

Of the main parts of the lathe, we did not talk only about the stop (handguard) for the cutter. We'll do that a little later. In the meantime, let's try to turn the above theory into a real machine. (On the transformation of theory into reality, see and).

A little about cutters and turning techniques

For processing wood, semicircular pass-through cutters are usually used (Fig. 6, a), and flat scoring cutters (Fig. 6, b). The sizes of cutters depend on the sizes of the received details. In addition to these two cutters, when working on a lathe, special cutters (cut-off, figured) are also used. Cutters are usually made from chisels and files. As a scoring cutter, a sharpened blade from a hacksaw is suitable.

Wood preparation for turning

The blanks must be dry, although the wood of the apple tree and similar hardwoods is better to sharpen wet, and then dry the finished product. When processing rare-layered wood, chips are possible, which hopelessly spoil the part.

Before turning, the workpieces must be given a shape close to cylindrical. Do this with an ax or a planer. Then, centers are marked along the ends of the workpiece and installed on the machine. (I, pressing the workpiece with the center bolt, put a small washer or nut under the last one, which prevents the workpiece from splitting. - Editor's note). To obtain several identical parts, the entire process must be divided into stages, a set of templates should be made of cardboard or tin, and with their help, control the size and shape of the workpieces to be processed at each stage. In the case of large batches of parts, the use of a simple copier will speed up the work (Fig. 7). The cutter in this case is complemented by an emphasis in the form of a short metal rod. Moreover, the smaller the diameter of the rod, the more accurately the device works. It is clear that the stop, resting against the template mounted on the hand rest, limits the movement of the cutter, which follows the bends of the template, transferring its shape to the workpiece. The template is usually made from 3mm plywood. To obtain overhead turned parts (for example, when finishing window trims), you can cut the finished part in half along the axial plane, or you can prepare a blank from two halves. Why do you have to firmly fasten the halves together with screws and turn them into a round part. After turning, the screws are unscrewed and two identical linings are obtained. All other tricks and raisins will come to the turner after the first turning experiments.

“There are never too many tools” - everyone who was engaged in construction or made something heard this phrase. The right tool is invaluable when you need to cut, weld, or join parts. The section on FORUMHOUSE about home-made machines and fixtures, which is called so, is constantly updated with new products that simplify and optimize the work of a builder or a “jack of all trades”.

We have already said, and. We continue the topic. Today we will talk about home-made turning, locksmith and even garden tools and fixtures for construction.

Cutting machine from grinder

Machine tools for the workshop are always in demand, but the angle grinder (angle grinder), popularly known as the "Bulgarian", is one of the favorites in the arsenal of any home master. But the tool requires a very attentive attitude, because. any neglect can result in serious injury. Therefore, with large volumes of metal sawing (when making a fence or cutting reinforcement), many people prefer to work with a cutting machine for metal.

You can buy a frame for angle grinders on the Internet, but in order to save money, you can make a cutting machine yourself, from an “unnecessary” or “extra” “grinder” on the farm, which almost every owner of a country house has. As we will see, it is not only suitable for sharpening garden equipment!

Ivici FORUMHOUSE User,
Moscow.

I have an angle grinder, weighing 5.5 kg. Once I thought about how to simplify its use. After all, working with her, moving all the time, is inconvenient - hands get tired quickly. I decided to make a convenient cutting machine from what I have.

Looking ahead, let's say that the machine (more precisely, its second modification) was a success: it saws smoothly and without distortions.

Ivici I made it like this - I took a piece of channel No. 6.5 (65 mm wide and 36 mm high). This is the base of the machine.

It also required a steel strip 50x5 mm. With the help of it, the grinder is fixed. It also required a 4x2 cm profile and a 3 mm piece of steel. The figure-eight bolt serves as a rotary axis.

In the first version of the machine, a powerful door hinge was used as a rotary axis. But, due to welding, under the action of high temperature, all the lubricant burned out in the loop, and a backlash appeared in the assembly.

According to the user, the hardest part was precisely marking and drilling the three 14mm diameter holes to bolt the angle grinder to the threaded holes for the side handle.

To do this, I had to use a stepped (conical) drill for metal.

I also had to work with a round file. A small bore of the holes, due to the play, allows you to move the grinder a little during the assembly process and install it accurately. After all the details are ready, the user grabbed the “piece of iron” that fastens the grinder by welding, assembled the entire structure in draft, verified all the corners and, making sure that everything was mounted as it should, finally scalded the entire structure.

Ivici

The machine is attached to the support table (a piece of slate 1 cm thick) with six self-tapping screws. You can refuse the return spring, just tighten the axle bolt tighter. When cutting the workpiece, there are no backlashes, distortions. You can also cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

Another home-made machine from angle grinders was offered by a portal user with a nickname Bistok.

As usual, at first we start a small construction or alteration, then we understand that we need new construction tools and fixtures, and then the search for the most optimal solution begins. Well don't buy it!

Bistok FORUMHOUSE user

I decided to make a ladder out of metal. To avoid marriage, backlash, discrepancies, when cutting metal parts, maximum accuracy is required. Therefore, I decided, taking the angle grinder as a basis, to make a sawing machine.

Everything that is usually lying around in the home workshop (and it’s a pity to throw it away) of a zealous owner went into action in anticipation of his finest hour. As a bed for a cutting machine Bistok I used an overlock table.

The swivel assembly is made from a hub from the “nine”, because it has a bearing.

As in the above version, the most difficult thing was to "catch" the right angle between the cutting disc and the stop angle. After all, the accuracy of sawing metal depends on this node.

The end result clearly dismantles the photo below.

To turn on the grinder Bistok I made additional wiring - I brought out a regular switch and a socket, and an extension plug comes from this switch.
You can buy a home-made machine from a familiar craftsman, but it’s much more correct to upgrade to the creator of devices of this level!

Bistok

I have a portable machine. I welded a corner to the handle to get 3 angle grinder support points. Fastening on two bolts customized in place. I work only in goggles. I am very pleased with the result of the work done. For the manufacture of the machine did not buy anything extra. The cut goes exactly at 90°.

Budget drilling machines

In addition to cutting machines, various devices for drilling holes in metal are popular. Starting from stationary drilling machines and ending with fixtures in which an ordinary drill is fixed, like a “drill” by a FORUMHOUSE user with the nickname g8o8r8.

g8o8r8 Member FORUMHOUSE

While drilling many holes of the same type in thick metal, in order to relieve my hands, I made a simple device based on a clamp welded to a metal support and a pair of clamps for rigidly fixing the drill. Now drilling a corner or channel has become much easier.

According to the user, it takes no more than 30 seconds to drill 1 hole with a diameter of 4-5 mm. Having decided to repeat such a design, it should be remembered that the load on the drill increases significantly due to the increase in the amount of work. g8o8r8 I've rebuilt my drill twice.

Also, the user, based on an electric motor, made a small machine - a “vertical machine” for drilling holes with a diameter of up to 4 mm in printed circuit boards.

g8o8r8

The long spindle compensates for the inaccuracy of the bearing cage groove. For amateur use, such a machine is quite suitable. Drilling accuracy remains at an acceptable level.

In the absence of a welding machine, you can assemble the device you need on the farm on bolted connections.

Hand trowel for concrete

No less than home-made machines for the home workshop, fixtures for construction and repair are important. And we can easily make many building fixtures with our own hands.

Anyone who has ever dealt with concrete work knows how difficult it is to smooth a freshly laid mixture to perfect condition. If in small areas you can get by with the rule, then when pouring a site in front of a house or a parking lot for a car, you can’t do it with an ordinary tool. A concrete trowel comes to the rescue, which, due to the long handle (from 3 to 12 m), allows you to smooth concrete over a larger area without stepping on the surface being leveled.

The principle of operation of such a device, somewhat reminiscent of a mop, is simple. There is a working profile (it is also called a "wing"), fixed on a long handle. When moving away from the trowel, due to the gearbox, the edge opposite from the user rises. That is, due to the angle of inclination of the “wing”, the trowel slides over the concrete, and does not collect it in front of it. When moving towards you, on the contrary, the side facing the worker lifts up, and the smoother again smoothes the concrete.

ronik55 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I know from experience how difficult it is to smooth concrete perfectly. I did not want to go and buy for 10 thousand rubles. In the end, my father made a cheap concrete smoothing device, practically from garbage - all unnecessary things.

The following photos clearly demonstrate how such a smoothing iron is arranged. We take a metal profile (dimensions depend on the smoothed area), weld transverse stiffeners to it, on which, in turn, hinge joints made of pipes are fixed.

The most important element, due to which the angle of elevation of the “wing” changes, is a rotating gearbox with a chain.

When the handle was rotated, the chain was wound around the pipe, and one edge of the trowel was lifted.

After troweling to the end point, we rotate the handle in the opposite direction. The chain is wound again and the end of the trowel facing the user is raised.

We pull the ironing board towards ourselves and repeat all the steps until we finish the job.

ronik55

Due to the “pipe in pipe” connection and fixation with a cotter pin, you can increase the length of the handle at your discretion. This design is easy to assemble yourself.

See how to do it yourself (you will also find a drawing at the link).

Garden sprayer and wyma

It all started with Metamorph it was necessary to treat the area from ticks, and the old hand sprayer died a long time. It was necessary to urgently buy a new device or find a replacement for it. Preparing for processing and thinking about what can be done, the user of our portal stumbled upon an unnecessary fire extinguisher lying around on the farm.

Next, we act like this - carefully unwind the fire extinguisher, pour out the remnants of the powder and rinse the container with water. Instead of a socket, we screw in an adapter into which, depending on the need, you can screw a nipple (for pumping air) or a nozzle (for spraying the mixture).

Metamorf Member FORUMHOUSE

Using a homemade sprayer is very simple: fill the fire extinguisher halfway with a special spray liquid, then pump it with air, screw on the sprayer and go to poison the ticks.

DIY carpentry tool

QWEsad Member of FORUMHOUSE

Once I needed to glue a lot of wooden shields. I didn't have clamps. Therefore, I decided to hastily assemble a wyma from wooden bars with a section of 5x5 cm and metal plates with dozens of nuts welded on.

In total, the user made 3 such clamps, which was enough for gluing a wooden shield measuring 1.5x1.7 m and 18 mm thick. To prevent the bars from sticking to the workpiece, under those places where there is a seam, and glue can protrude, you can put a newspaper or shoot polyethylene with a stapler.

In order not to spoil the workpiece, a gasket must be placed under the plate against which the screw rests. The gluing width is adjusted by moving the stop bar.

The use of a milling machine is different. Some can perform one function, some - several. However, its purchase can be quite expensive for a simple man in the street. Therefore, if you want to save money, then the best option for you is to make it at home with your own hands. In this article, you will learn how to do it.

Usually the tree processes along a curved and straight contour. The main work is done by the metal head of the knife, which moves up and down at high speed.

Milling cutters can have various construction options (and each has both its pros and cons):

• Single-spindle (the spindle is installed in a vertical position)
• Single-spindle with a movable spindle (you can change the angle of inclination)
• Copy version of phraser (upper placement)
• Same as above, only placed horizontally

How to make a lathe for wood?

Much easier than you think. But not without certain complexities and nuances. You can make it from a drill or using an electric motor taken from another medium. Power, however, should not exceed 500 watts. A drill is perfect for making a drive.

Before starting work, create a detailed drawing of the product. Pay attention to all the small details - they must be carefully drawn. Be especially careful with scale.

Of the materials that you should have, you must have:

• metal frame
• handcuff
• Tailstock
• electric motor

Carefully connect all the parts together, as shown in the photo. That's all! Homemade machine is ready!

CNC machine manufacturing

The manufacture of a CNC machine is slightly different from the technology for creating a conventional machine in that there is a program that will control its operation. However, like many other machines, it is based on a beam with a rectangular section.

It is important to use bolts instead of welding for fastening, as this will provide greater strength (bolts are less affected by vibration than welds).

Try to provide for the possibility of moving the machine vertically. This will give you more room to experiment and use your imagination.

When assembling, it is best to start with the motors. They must run on electricity and be of the stepper type. They must be attached directly to the axis, vertically. One will move the router horizontally, the other up and down. After installing the engines, proceed to attach the remaining parts of the structure.

Rotational movements will be transmitted through a belt system. This will ensure the operation of the node system.

Check the functionality of the phraser. If everything is ready and there are no defects, then you can connect software to it.

What equipment do you need to have?

In order to make such a machine at home, you first need to have three stepper motors. They will determine the movements of your machine up, down and sideways. This is the basis of its functionality. You can take them from any dot matrix printer. In addition to them, it is imperative to have a pair of iron rods available.

Of course, it is not necessary to have exactly 3 engines - you can get by with the two available in a dot matrix printer. But if you want to adjust the angle of inclination, then you will definitely need a third motor.

In addition, the number of control wires greatly increases the number of operations that can be performed on the machine. It is also worth considering the degree of rotation at one step, the winding resistance and what voltage is supplied to the motors.

In addition to all of the above, there is another version of the machine that you can easily make at home. This is a grinder.

Usually they make a tape machine - for processing parts when they are almost ready. Any master can also make it. The main desire!

So, for starters, you will need an engine - you can remove it from an old washing machine. The bed can be made from a sheet of metal. Please note that the sides of the bed should be as even as possible.

Then you will need two shafts. You can also make lightness out of a piece of chipboard. One of them must have a direct connection to the electric motor, and the second must be mounted on an axle with bearing assemblies.

Then fix the tape on the shafts. They should be exactly in the middle. The most optimal material for its manufacture is an emery cloth. The material must be glued very close to each other.

You can learn more about how to make a grinding machine with your own hands in the video at the end of the article. Thus, if you want to make some wood products at home, but do not want to spend money on expensive equipment, you can easily make everything at home.

Photo of do-it-yourself woodworking machines