Is it possible to plaster in winter in a heated house. Optimum temperature for plastering walls. Plastering of wooden facades

As you know, plastering the facade in frost is not an easy task, because the process of building a building often continues in winter. In this regard, the question arises at what temperature the surface of the structure can be plastered and what rules should be followed.

Plastering the walls, if necessary, in winter is possible with the use of heated mortars and at a temperature not exceeding -15 ° C. If it is necessary to carry out the plastering process at the lowest temperatures, then it will be necessary to thoroughly warm up the surfaces of the walls and other partitions.

The main requirements for the process of plastering facades in frost include:

1. Compliance with the humidity of walls and other partitions, which should not exceed 8%.
2. Maintaining the solution during the work of plastering slopes (door and window), niches and other structural elements of the structure, subjected to the fastest cooling, with a temperature of more than +8 ... + 10 ° С. At the same time, if possible, it is still recommended to carry out these manipulations with the above elements before the onset of cold weather. Because to maintain the temperature level from + 10 ° C in the premises, additional enhanced insulation will be required.
3. Plaster (at an average temperature in the room) at the external floors of the building in frost at a height of 500 mm from the floor level should be at least + 8 ° C; at the same time, at the ceiling, it should not exceed + 25 ... + 30 ° С, because at higher temperatures, the mortar can quickly dry out and crack, losing its strength.
4. Outdoor plaster work at a temperature environment below 5°C can only be carried out with a solution containing chemical modifiers that can make it susceptible to frost hardening and help achieve the design strength. It is also possible to plaster in winter with a mortar containing ground quicklime.
5. It is possible to plaster external walls, built by the method of freezing and having a thawed wall to a depth of at least half of it from the side of the manipulations with the plaster of the facade. At the same time, the use of warm water to accelerate the process of warming up the facade walls and eliminating, thus, frost from them is strictly prohibited.

Frost-resistant plaster mixture, its advantages and specificity

Plaster in winter (especially when compared with an ordinary summer plaster mortar) has an abundance of advantages and differences, of which the key ones are:

1. A large number of defrosting cycles, allowing to ensure an impeccable appearance of the facade of the building even after 15-20 years of operation. At the same time, ordinary plaster is guaranteed to last only a few years, after which it will gradually crack, fall off and require local ceiling repairs.
2. Wide range of temperatures. Frost-resistant plaster successfully withstands cold down to -50 ° C, and also feels good at + 70 ° C; this makes it extremely reliable for use in any regional zones of the country.
3. The excellent "elasticity" of the finishing consistency prevents the appearance of cracks during regime temperature fluctuations, which entails a reduction in monetary waste for repair and construction work of the building.
4. Fast drying time. Due to the special texture, the frost-resistant plaster mixture begins to harden after only 2-3 hours after application, while it will take only a day until it dries completely.
5. Increased degree of water resistance. According to its moisture-proof characteristics, the frost-resistant mortar is considered almost a surrogate for water-repellent plaster mixtures, which makes it a universally suitable facing material for exterior facade work.

Preliminary preparation of the surface of the facade walls for plastering the facade in frost

Before plastering the walls of a room that require such manipulation, it is necessary to prepare everything in advance. For this you need to:

• caulk all gaps between window, door frames and walls;
• plaster slopes in advance during a warmer period;
• glaze windows;
• doorways must be installed ahead of time with a tight cover;
• insulate interfloor and attic floors.

An acceptable alternative is to arrange a special unit at the construction site, where the solutions will be heated, however, it is more profitable to prepare mixtures directly on the territory of the manufacturer and deliver them to the construction site packaged in packs, i.e. dosed.

In local conditions, fine sand is used to create a solution, which, after sieving, is heated in a container on a fire or other heating surface. Without a doubt, plastering in winter is a very serious matter, so lime should be taken ground and freshly slaked, otherwise it will carbonize during transportation; Or use lime paste.

The complexity of the operation, which lies in the dilemma at what temperature it is possible to plaster, when using slaked lime, is a large release of heat during operation, entailing, accordingly, an increase in humidity in the room. The use of antifreeze additives will help to overwinter the plaster mortar on the wall with the least losses.

By consistency, the main composition of the finishing mixture includes cement, lime and sand (in a ratio of 1: 1: 4). The use of salts when plastering the facade in frost is dangerous, since efflorescence may occur after drying.

In winter, plastering of the facade, both wooden and concrete (or brick), can be carried out using special technologies that will not allow the mixture to freeze during finishing and facade work.

"Nature has no bad weather", I want to say the same about various repair work. AT modern times there are a lot of technologies and tools that will help make repairs at any time of the year, and plastering in winter is no exception.

Is it possible to plaster in the winter?

Plastering walls allows you to provide adhesion to finishing materials and improve the quality of surfaces, level them and give the room a finished look. This is labor intensive work, but it is very important for those who strive to improve the quality of life.

Often, construction / repair manipulations occur in the winter. Thanks to the proper organization of future work, you can always plaster. The only thing to consider is some conditions for preparing the compositions and drying.

In this case, the permissible norms for winter work should be taken into account. There are few of them, but each of them is required to be accounted for. Permissible humidity and air temperature must be taken into account. The humidity level should not exceed 8 percent, and the composition should not be colder +8 degrees. Thawing must occur to a depth of more than half of the wall. You should also level the plaster of all slopes in the room. It is forbidden to use hot water to remove ice from the walls or to accelerate the heating of frozen walls.

Features of work at sub-zero temperatures

Work outside must be carried out at a temperature above -5 degrees. But it is possible to work at significantly low temperatures if you use a solution with chemicals, which are added to the composition during preparation.

The usual solution in frost is not applicable, since it does not freeze, but freezes. This will cause the plaster to fall off with the onset of heat. Plaster compositions with modifiers harden in the cold, so they do not lose performance characteristics even when applied in winter.

The object where plastering is planned is prepared without fail. Slopes and boxes of doors, windows are plastered in advance. The draft negatively affects the quality of the plaster in the future, so it is necessary to glaze the windows and close the entrances tightly. Attics and spaces between floors should be insulated.

The usual plaster composition indoors in winter is used if the average heat temperature is 8 degrees. The temperature is measured next to the outer wall, half a meter from the floor level. The ceiling should not be more than 30 degrees, as the solution will dry out too quickly. This will lead to cracks and loss of strength.

Most suitable option is the presence of DSP. In this situation, the performer may not worry about work in the winter season, since all possible restrictions are excluded. It is comfortable and allows you to quickly, efficiently and efficiently perform plastering.

Drying plaster in winter

Depending on the type of plaster, the duration of its drying, as well as the method of drying, also depend.

1. Lime plaster requires a minimum of carbon dioxide. Drying of the accelerated type is prohibited in this situation, as the composition will lose strength and crack.
2. The gypsum-based solution dries for about 7 days. For gypsum plaster, it is necessary to ventilate the room, but the main thing is not to create drafts. That is, in winter, a small crack in the window is enough.
3. Compositions with cement and lime-cement dry out for about 14 days, while additional ventilation is not required. This is due to the fact that the solution needs moist air.

The optimal heating for any type of plaster is central heating. In its absence, you need to think about the temporary. This way you can ensure comfortable conditions work and surface drying.

A large amount of work requires the use of air heaters. These devices allow you not to think about the question of whether it is possible to perform plastering inside the building in winter. Such devices heat the air to a comfortable temperature even in rooms with a large area. Their use allows you to dry the plaster in 7 days at temperatures above 30 degrees.

At the moment of drying, the wall dries up to a moisture content of 8%. It is necessary to set the temperature regime at 8 degrees Celsius so that the walls do not cool down and do not become stained. Plaster with the addition of lime dries for about 10-15 days, and this is provided that the room is ventilated 2-3 times per hour!

Compositions for plaster in winter

gypsum plaster Forman 12: the minimum temperature of the base of the mixture is from +5 degrees

Premises without heating and outdoor work at low temperatures are carried out using special plaster compositions.

1. Chlorine water is added to the mixture, which allows you to work at -25˚C. Moreover, you do not need to be interested in the technique of plastering brick walls with this composition. The technology is the same as in the case of conventional solutions. Only one feature - you should not apply large layers.
2. Potash does not form efflorescence and does not corrode metals. So it is an ideal way to plaster reinforced structures. It provides maximum protection against the environment and other factors. On the basis of potash, mortars containing cement, cement with clay and cement with lime can be made. You should buy cement of low grades. The amount of potash introduction is calculated depending on the air temperature. At -5˚, 1% is enough. At lower temperatures, it is recommended to introduce more than 1.5%. AT this case, you need to take an interest in the air temperature in order to make a suitable plaster mortar.
3. Ammonia water is a homemade modifier. It should be added to the finished mixture. In this case, it is necessary to introduce ammonia and ordinary water with a temperature not higher than 5 degrees Celsius, since ammonia evaporates at a higher temperature. If the concentration of ammonia in water is 25%, then 3.15 liters of ordinary water is added to 1 liter of plaster mortar to reach a working additive, and 6%. If ammonia is 15%, then 1.5 liters of cool water will be required for 1 liter. The modifier is stored in sealed containers. For this, glass containers with stoppers are suitable. This will protect the product from the loss of ammonia, as it will evaporate. When preparing for plastering walls for laying tiles or other finishing material, you need to understand that ammonia water is suitable for various types solutions containing cement, except for cement-clay. With their help, you can prepare surfaces for cladding in the winter season. Lime-gypsum compositions should not be used.
4. Ammonia solutions are suitable for work at -30˚, but without special need one should not try to work in such conditions. These are too extreme conditions for the performance of work, since the performer will not be comfortable plastering and working with mortar.

When grouting concrete surfaces, a plaster mortar with cement is used in proportions of 1/2 or 1/4. In the case of cinder block, brick and wood, it is better to use cement-lime-sand mortars prepared in a ratio of 1/1/6 or 1/1/9.

Lime is diluted with ammonia water with a temperature of more than 5 degrees Celsius. When the outside air temperature is below -15˚, the solution should be between 2 and 3 degrees Celsius. At frost -25, the solution should not be cooler than 5 degrees Celsius. Plastering at lower temperatures is not worth it because of the extreme conditions.

Working with plaster in winter using an ammonia modifier is great option, since after freezing the plaster will retain its strength and will not peel off. After the onset of a thaw, the layer will dry out without losing strength.

In winter time work can be done, but it should be understood that the procedure will require a lot of money and time, unlike plaster in the summer. But with the right attitude to work, you can do quality work. The very same technology of work does not differ from plaster in the summer, only the solution changes.

Given the norms for preparing winter mortars, drying and maintaining the coating in the first days after applying the plaster, the surface will remain smooth and beautiful for many years.

PLASTERING IN WINTER

GENERAL INFORMATION. PREPARATION AND DRYING OF ROOMS AND SURFACES

General information. in winter plastering work comply with a number of additional requirements. Humidity of brick or stone walls to be plastered should not exceed 8%. The degree of humidity is determined by the laboratory. Those building structures (window and door slopes, niches) that are subject to rapid cooling should be finished before the onset of cold weather. If they are finished after the onset of cold weather, then measures are taken to protect the plaster from premature freezing: the plaster is insulated, heated. Preparation, storage, transportation of plaster solutions should be organized in such a way that the solution delivered to the place of work, at the time of its application, has a temperature of at least + 8 ° C. This can be achieved when the premises, bunkers, mortar pipelines are insulated and the temperature in the room is not lower than

10°C. Mortar pipelines located outdoors or in unheated rooms must be insulated. Performing outdoor plastering works at air temperatures below -5°C is allowed with solutions containing chemical additives that give the solutions the ability to harden in frost and achieve the required strength. It is also allowed to plaster with solutions with ground quicklime.

It is allowed to plaster stone and brick walls laid by the freezing method when the masonry has thawed from the side of the plastering to a depth of at least half the thickness of the wall. Application hot water to accelerate the heating of frozen walls or to remove frost from them is not allowed. Training. The building as a whole or its premises to be plastered are prepared in advance. First of all, they caulk the gaps between the walls, door and window frames and plaster the plugs and window slopes. Inserted window sashes are glazed. The doors are tightly closed. Attic and interfloor ceilings

insulate. According to the technical conditions, plastering work is allowed to be carried out in winter at a stable average indoor temperature near the outer walls at a height of 0.5 m from the floor level, not lower than +8°C. To speed up the drying of the plaster, it is recommended to increase the temperature to 4-10-16°C. At the same time, the temperature at the ceiling should not exceed +30°C. At higher temperatures, the plaster dries quickly, cracks, and loses strength. It is forbidden to work in rooms where the temperature is below +8 ° C, since the plaster dries for a long time and, in addition, applied to frozen walls, it can peel off in the spring, as the walls, when thawing, release moisture and it breaks the adhesion of the plaster to the wall. Wooden, fibrolite, reed and straw surfaces under these conditions are highly saturated with moisture, swell and increase in volume. When dry, they warp and tear the plaster. Before plastering, it is necessary to remove frost from the surfaces and then warm the room well. Heating and drying. Plasters on various binder materials are dried in different ways. For example, the normal process of drying and curing lime plasters requires some amount of carbon dioxide. Drying of lime plasters accelerated way does not give good results: the plaster is fragile and cracks badly. Lime and lime-gypsum plaster is dried on average for 10-15 days, airing the room two to three times an hour. Cement and cement-lime plasters are dried for 6-7 days without airing the premises, because moist air is required during their hardening. When drying plaster from a complex solution, it is necessary to focus on the main binder. Frozen wet plaster should be immediately thawed, loosened areas removed, repaired and then dried. The best heating when drying a piece ^ Turks - central. If there is no central or stove heating, a temporary one is arranged.

For large volumes of plastering work, air heaters are used. These installations dry the plaster for 6-8 days at an air temperature of +30°C. As soon as the plaster dries to the required humidity (8%), the drying is stopped and the room temperature is maintained at + 8 ° C so that the walls do not cool down and damp spots do not appear on them. Heaters are also used to dry large plastered surfaces. The installation includes a heater with a firebox, a blower installation with centrifugal fan, pumping hot gases through air ducts (pipes), a set of pipes and an additional fan that pumps air. Air ducts are passed into the building through window or door openings. If there are workers in the room, then only hot air is supplied to the building, and the exhaust carbon monoxide gases are removed outside. The electric heater has a cylindrical casing made of sheet steel, in which heating elements are placed on stands. Air is forced into the electric heater by a fan from the electric motor, where it is heated and supplied outside. Heat generator TG-150 is designed for use in areas with air temperature from - 35°C. It runs on liquid fuel. The infrared burner is designed for drying plaster in buildings under construction and renovation, subject to air exchange at least twice per hour, ensuring the timely removal of combustion products.

PLASTERING WITH SOLUTIONS WITH ANTI-FROST ADDITIVES

solutions in chlorinated water. In unheated rooms, in rooms with partial heating, as well as in cold weather, plastering work is carried out with solutions with chemical additives.

For external plastering work, chlorinated solutions are used (solutions mixed with chlorinated water). Such solutions can be used to plaster surfaces at temperatures down to -25°C without subsequent heating of the plaster. To prepare chlorinated water, water is poured into the boiler, heated to + 35 ° C, then bleach is put into it (12-15 hours of bleach per 100 liters of water). The solution is stirred until the lime is completely dissolved. The resulting chlorinated milk is put for 1-1.5 hours to settle, after which the sludge of chlorinated water is poured into a supply tank and used to prepare a solution. Chlorinated water should not be heated above +35°C, as the chlorine will evaporate and the water will lose its activity. It is strictly forbidden to use unsettled chlorinated water, because if silt or turbidity gets into the plaster, cracks appear in it.

On chlorinated water, you can prepare complex or cement mortars, which are used to plaster wooden, brick or concrete surfaces. Other types of solutions should not be prepared with chlorinated water.

The following compositions of chlorinated solutions are recommended - cement: lime dough: sand (1: 1: 6) or cement: a mixture of clay with ground slag: sand (1: 1.5: 6). These compositions of solutions are used for plastering brick, cinder block and wooden surfaces. Concrete surfaces are plastered with cement mortars of composition from 1:2.5 to 1:3. The temperature of chlorinated water for the preparation of solutions must be at least + 10°C, the temperature of the materials depends on the outside temperature (see page 138). The lower the air temperature, the higher the temperature of the solutions should be, and in windy weather it is higher than in quiet weather. The temperature of the plaster solution, regardless of the outside temperature, must be at least +5°C at the time of application and grouting. Chlorinated solutions are applied manually or mechanically. Each subsequent layer of the solution should lie on the thickened previously applied layer. After setting, the coverings are grouted. Insufficiently dried are common? plasters applied in winter are covered with frost, which reduces their strength. The strength of chlorinated plasters in the cold increases. Chlorinated solutions can be painted with alkali-resistant and light-resistant mineral paints (earthen), for example, mummy, ocher, iron minium. Workers who prepare chlorinated water or mortar and use chlorinated mortar directly on plastering work must be instructed in safety. To work with these solutions, they are required to wear canvas overalls, a rubberized apron and gloves; need to dress up rubber boots. Work with chlorinated solutions is possible only in a gas mask or respirator.

Plastering with chlorinated solutions indoors is not allowed. As an exception, it is allowed to plaster niches under the radiator, provided that the windows are open.

After drying, chlorinated plasters are harmless, since chlorinated solutions completely set on the eighth day, and during this time chlorine evaporates from them. Solutions with the addition of potash. Solutions with the addition of potash do not give efflorescence, do not cause corrosion damage to the metal, so they can also be used when plastering mesh-reinforced structures. Cement-clay, cement-lime and cement mortars are prepared on an aqueous solution of potash. Colored solutions are prepared using alkali resistant pigments. For the preparation of the solution, Portland cement of low grades is used. The amount of potash is taken depending on the outside temperature. So, for example, at an outside temperature of up to -5 ° C, potash is taken 1% by weight of the dry mixture, at an outside temperature of -5 to - 15 ° C - 1.5%, at a temperature below - 15 ° C - 2% . Potash is added to the dry plaster mixture in the form of an aqueous solution. Cement-clay mortars are used in the following compositions: from 1:0.2:4 to 1:0.5:6 (cement:clay:sand). To prepare the solution, dried clay is mixed with cement and then closed with an aqueous solution of potash. Clay can be preformed into dough and then mixed with cement and sand.

Cement-lime mortars should contain no more than 20% lime by weight of cement. Prepare them in the usual way. Cement mortars should be low-fat, composition 1:3. Potash salt is dissolved in water, on which a solution is prepared from a cement-sand mixture or this water is added to thick solutions. For work it is recommended to use preheated solutions up to +5-M0°C. The solution must be used within an hour of its preparation. The solution is stored in an insulated container. Prior to plastering, the surfaces are cleaned of snow, ice and pollution. Stamps and lighthouses are made from a solution with which I plaster surfaces. Spraying during plastering at low temperatures is not applied to the surface, but a creamy solution is prepared and immediately applied to the base in layers 10-12 mm thick. The soil is leveled, scratched, and a coating 7-8 mm thick is applied over its thickened layer. The coating is leveled and rubbed without wetting with water. A worker preparing a solution with the addition of potash should be dressed in the same way as working with chlorinated solutions. solutions in ammonia water. Solutions prepared with ammonia water do not give efflorescence. Ammonia water is obtained from the plant, at workplaces in the solution units it is diluted to the required concentration. The temperature of ammonia and ordinary water for its dilution should not exceed + 5 ° C, since ammonia evaporates at a higher temperature. If ammonia water has a 25% concentration, then to obtain ammonia water of 6% concentration, 3.16 liters (rounded 3 liters) of ordinary water are added to each liter of it. If ammonia water of 15% concentration is imported, then 1.5 liters of water are added to 1 liter of it. Ammonia water, delivered from the factory or diluted at the workplace, is stored in hermetically sealed containers, preferably in glass bottles with ground stoppers. Cement and cement-lime mortars with sand are closed with ammonia water; lime, lime-gypsum and cement-clay mortars must not be mixed with ammonia water. When grouting concrete, it is recommended to use a cement mortar with a composition of 1: 2-1: 4 (cement: sand); for plastering brick, cinder-concrete and wooden surfaces - cement-lime-sand mortars of compositions 1: 1: 6-1: 1: 9 (cement: lime paste: sand). Lime dough is diluted with ammonia water, the temperature of which should not be lower than + 5 ° C. The temperature at the heating solution depends on the outside temperature. If the outside air temperature is up to -15°C, then the temperature of the solution at the workplace should be + 2-3°C. At an outside air temperature of up to -25°C, the solution temperature should not be lower than + 5°C. Plastering with ammonia water solutions is permissible at air temperatures down to -30°C. To obtain solutions of the specified temperature, the materials included in them are heated. After mixing, the temperature of the lime paste and ammonia water should not exceed + 5°C. Solutions must be supplied to workplaces in insulated boxes, closed with lids with soft rubber gaskets, which prevents ammonia from escaping and retains heat. Plaster on ammonia water after freezing has high strength, the surface film does not peel.

Very often, the process of building or repairing a building has to be continued even in the cold season. Therefore, the question of whether it is possible to plaster the walls in winter becomes very relevant. It is worth noting that you can work in almost any conditions, you just need to properly organize the work.
Permissible working conditions
If you are going to plaster in the winter, you need to follow a number of rules. So, the humidity of the walls should not exceed 8%. Plastering of doors and window slopes, niches and other structural elements of the building subject to rapid cooling should be made before the onset of winter. The temperature of the solution for work must be at least + 8 ° C. Such conditions become possible only when the mortar pipelines and bins (with machine plastering) are insulated, and the general temperature in the room is at least +10°C.
Features of plaster in frost
Outdoor plastering works at temperatures below -5°C are allowed only with the use of a solution containing chemical modifiers. You don't even have to think is it possible to plaster walls in winter in frost with an ordinary solution- it will not freeze, but freeze and simply fall off in the thaw. Modified mortars, on the other hand, have the ability to harden in the cold, due to which they reach the design strength even in winter conditions. You can also use solutions that contain ground quicklime.
The room to be plastered is prepared in advance. Be sure to caulk the gaps between the door and window frames, pre-plaster the slopes. Windows must be glazed, doors installed and tightly closed. Attic and interfloor floors must be insulated.

It is possible to plaster with an ordinary mortar indoors in winter at an average temperature of at least + 8 ° C. The temperature should be taken for about outer wall, approximately 0.5 meters above floor level. It is worth noting that the room temperature near the ceiling should not exceed + 30 ° C, since the solution will dry out too quickly, which will crack and lose strength.
It is best if the room has central heating. Then you don’t have to think about whether it is possible to plaster the walls in winter, since there will be no restrictions on work.
Drying plaster
Different types of plaster need to be dried in different ways. Lime plasters require a minimum amount of carbon dioxide to cure. Accelerated drying is contraindicated here, since the plaster may become fragile and crack. Lime and lime-gypsum finishes should dry for about two weeks. In this case, the room must be ventilated at least twice a day. Cement and cement-lime mortars dry better - in about a week, and the room does not need to be ventilated, since the mortar requires moist air.
The optimal heating for the normal hardening of any plaster is central. When it is not there, you have to arrange a temporary one.
With a large amount of work, it is best to use air heaters. You don't have to think about these devices. Is it possible to plaster walls indoors in winter- they are able to catch up with the temperature even in the largest halls. With them, the plaster will dry for about a week at an average temperature of up to + 30 ° C. When the wall dries to a humidity of 8%, it is necessary to set the temperature in the room to + 8 ° C so that the walls do not cool down and become covered with wet spots.
You can also use heaters. The drying kit consists of the air heater itself, a blower unit with a powerful centrifugal fan that blows hot air through pipes, pipes and a second fan that blows air into the heater.
Special winter solutions
In unheated rooms and outdoors at sub-zero temperatures, plastering can be done with solutions with special chemical additives.
Chlorine water
Very often, for outdoor work, mixtures are used that are mixed with chlorinated water. With such solutions it is possible to plaster at temperatures up to 25 ° frost. In this case, you do not have to find out how to plaster brick walls
with the use of such a solution - the technology remains standard, except that it is not recommended to throw large layers.
To prepare the composition, you need to heat the water to + 35 ° C, after which bleach is placed in it (15 kg per 100 liters of water). The composition is mixed until the lime is completely dissolved and settled for an hour and a half. Further on this mixture, you can prepare a solution.

Potash
Solutions with the use of potash do not form efflorescence, and also do not provoke metal corrosion. Therefore, it is these mixtures that are recommended for plastering on mesh-reinforced structural elements.
Potash aqueous solutions can be used to make cement, cement-clay and cement-lime mixtures. Cement is better to take low grades, and the amount of added potash mainly depends on the current air temperature. If the work area is not more than -5 ° C, then 1% of potash from the total volume of the mixture is sufficient. With greater frost, you need to add at least 1.5%. In general, it is important here to at least approximately know at what temperature the walls are plastered in order to prepare the optimal solution.
ammonia water
This is no longer a home-made modifier, but a mixture produced in factories, which is only diluted at the construction site to the required concentration. Here it is important to ensure that the temperature of ammonia and ordinary water during dilution does not exceed + 5 ° C, since at high temperatures the ammonia will gradually evaporate.
With an ammonia concentration in water up to 25%, to obtain a working additive with a value of 6%, 3.15 liters of plain chilled water must be added to one liter of the factory solution. If ammonia water is purchased with a concentration of 15%, then only one and a half liters of water should be added per liter.
It is necessary to store this modifier in hermetically sealed containers. Glass bottles with well-ground stoppers are best suited for this.
When deciding how to plaster walls for tiles or other finishing materials, you need to know that ammonia water can be added to all types of cement and cement-lime-sand mortars, which will make it possible to prepare walls for cladding even in winter. Lime-gypsum and cement-clay mixtures are not recommended to be mixed with this additive.
When grouting concrete surfaces, it is recommended to use a cement mixture in a proportion of 1/2 or 1/4 shares. For plastering works on cinder concrete, brick and wooden surfaces cement-lime-sand mortars are more suitable in proportions of 1/1/6 or 1/1/9 shares.
Lime must be diluted with ammonia water at a temperature of at least +5°C. As for the heating temperature of the solution, it depends on the air temperature. If the outside air has a temperature of less than 15°C, the solution temperature should not exceed +2-3°C. If it is -25° outside, the temperature of the mortar mixture should be at least 5° heat. Well, how to plaster
house walls
in even greater frost, it makes no sense to clarify, since no one does this.
In principle, it is possible to work with solutions based on ammonia additives in frost down to -30 ° C, but plaster in such extreme conditions is already performed in the most extreme cases and is definitely not a common practice.
Winter plaster with solutions with ammonia modifier is considered the best option, since after freezing the plaster has high strength, its surface film does not begin to peel off. After thawing, the solution layer dries quickly, remaining even, durable and monolithic.
You can plaster in winter
In general, winter plastering is not something impossible. Undoubtedly, this is a more costly and complex procedure than plastering in the summer, but with the right approach, the final quality of the coating will be just as high.
As for the technology for performing work, it is similar summer version How to plaster wall corners
in summer, so it should be done in winter, only with the help of a modified solution or in a heated room.

It often happens that the process of building a building continues in the winter. Therefore, the question at what temperature it is possible to plaster becomes the most relevant.

But no less important is the question of how to properly plaster in such and what rules should be followed. We will try to answer all this below.

Conditions and preparatory work

In winter, it is necessary to plaster, observing a number of additional standards. Humidity should not be higher than 8%. Plastering of door and window slopes, niches and some others structural elements buildings subjected to rapid cooling must be plastered before the onset of winter. The solution while working with it must have a temperature of + 8 ° and above.

This is possible only when the bunkers, mortar pipelines (with the machine method of plastering) are insulated, and the temperature in the rooms is kept at +10°.

The result of plastering in an unheated room

Outdoor plastering works at temperatures below -5 ° are allowed only with solutions that contain chemical modifiers that give them the ability to harden in the cold and reach the design strength. You can also work with solutions containing ground quicklime.

Freeze-built walls can be plastered if the wall on the side of the work has thawed to a depth of at least half of it. The use of heated water to speed up the process of heating the walls and removing ice from them is strictly prohibited.

The rooms to be plastered are prepared in advance. Be sure to caulk the gaps between the window, door frames and slopes are plastered with walls. The windows are glazed. Doors are installed and tightly closed. Interfloor and attic floors are insulated.

In winter, plastering can be done at an average temperature in rooms near external walls at a height of 50 cm from the floor level, not less than + 8 °.

The temperature should not exceed +30°. At higher temperatures, the solution quickly dries out, cracks and loses strength.

Heating and drying

Heater for drying plaster

Materials on different binders are dried in different ways. Lime plasters require a small amount of carbon dioxide to dry and harden. Drying them with an accelerated method is contraindicated: the plaster becomes fragile and cracks badly.

Lime, lime-gypsum finishing dries about 10/14 days. The room should be aired two or three times a day. Cement, cement-lime mortars are dried for 6/7 days.

The room is not ventilated, because the solution needs moist air. When drying plasters from complex mixtures, it is necessary to focus on the main binder.

The best heating for the normal hardening of the plaster is central. If it, as well as stove heating, is not available, a temporary one is arranged.

If the volume of work is large, air heaters are used. They dry the plaster for about 6/8 days at a temperature of +30°. As soon as it dries to a humidity of 8%, the temperature in the room is set at + 8 °, so the walls do not cool down and do not become covered with wet spots.

You can also use heaters. The installation kit includes the heater itself with a firebox, a blower assembly with a centrifugal fan that pumps hot gas through pipes, a set and another fan that pumps air.

Solutions with antifreeze additives

To the question: is it possible to plaster in the cold, the answer is simple.

In unheated rooms, as well as outside at sub-zero temperatures, plaster is made with solutions with chemical additives.

Chlorine water.

For outdoor work, mixtures are used that are closed with chlorinated water. They can work at temperatures up to -25 °.

To prepare the additive, pour water into the cauldron and heat up to +35°. Next, put bleach in it at the rate of 15 kg per 100 liters of water. Stir the composition until the lime is completely dissolved. The resulting milk should stand for 1/1.5 hours.

Next, drain the sludge into a disposable container and use as needed. The composition must not be heated above + 35 °, otherwise the chlorine will evaporate. It is forbidden to use chlorinated water that has not settled; if turbidity gets into the plaster, it will crack.

On such an additive, it is possible to make cement and complex mortars and plaster brick, concrete and wooden surfaces with them. Other plasters on it can not be done.

For cinder block, brick and walls, it is necessary to use the following chlorinated mixtures: cement + lime + sand in a ratio of 1/1/6 or cement + clay with slag + sand, in a ratio of 1/1.5/6. plastered with cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1/3.

Attention! When working with chlorine mixtures, wear a respirator, canvas overalls, rubberized gloves, an apron and boots. After drying, such solutions are harmless, because the chlorine from them gradually evaporates.

Potash

Potash-added solutions do not form efflorescence and do not contribute to metal corrosion. Therefore, they are recommended for plastering mesh-reinforced structural elements.

Cement, cement-clay and cement-lime mixtures are made on a potash aqueous solution. For the manufacture of plaster mortars, cement of low grades is taken. The amount of potash added depends on the air temperature.

If this indicator is not lower than -5 °, potash needs 1% of the volume of the mixture in a dry state. At an air temperature of -5 / -15 °, 1.5% of the additive is needed. If it is cold outside, below -15 °, 2% of the additive is added.

Cement-clay mortars filled with sand can be made in proportions from 1/0.2/4 to 1/0.5/6. For their preparation, dried clay is mixed with cement and sand, and then closed with an aqueous potash solution.

Cement-lime mixtures should contain no more than 20% lime by weight of cement.

Cement mortars should be made non-greasy, in a ratio of 1/3. Potash salt dissolves in water, on which the mixture is made. For work, it is necessary to use a solution that has a temperature above + 5 °.

Note! It must be used within an hour after it is prepared.

The solution must be stored in an insulated container. It is necessary to dress in the same way as when working with chlorinated solutions.

ammonia water

ammonia water

This is produced in factories, and diluted to the desired concentration at the construction site. It is necessary to ensure that the temperature of both ammonia and ordinary water, with which it is diluted, does not exceed + 5 °. At higher temperatures the ammonia will evaporate.

If the concentration of ammonia in water is 25%, then to obtain a finished additive with a concentration of 6%, 3.16 liters of ordinary water are added to each liter of the factory solution. If ammonia water with a concentration of 15% was purchased, then 1.5 liters of water is added to its 1 liter.

This modifier should be stored in hermetically sealed containers, glass bottles with ground stoppers are most suitable for this.

Ammonia water can be added to cement and cement-lime-sand mortars. Lime-gypsum, cement-clay and lime mixtures cannot be mixed with this additive.

When grouting concrete, it is necessary to use cement mixtures in proportions of 1/2-1/4. For plastering work on brick, cinder concrete and wooden surfaces - cement-lime-sand compositions, proportions 1/1/6-1/1/9.

Lime is diluted with ammonia water, the temperature regime of which should not be lower than +5 °. The heating temperature of the plaster solution is dependent on the same indicator of the outside air.

If the air outside is cooled to -15°, then the temperature of the solution when working with it should be +2/3°. When the outside air mode is up to -25°, the temperature of the mixture must be maintained at a level of at least +5°.

It is possible to work with solutions with an ammonia additive at an ambient temperature of up to -30 ° and it is best to carry out plastering on beacons

Finishing on the ammonia modifier after freezing has a high strength, its surface film does not peel off. Such plasters continue to gain strength indicators, both in the cold and at positive temperatures, after they are thawed. The process of plastering works is the same as when finishing surfaces with mixtures with other antifreeze additives.

Plastering walls in winter - houses, cottages, summer cottages - construction

Plastering walls in winter- the task is not simple enough. In winter, plastering must be done at an average indoor temperature near the outer walls at a maximum height of half a meter from the floor not lower than 8 ° C. To speed up the drying of the plaster, you need to bring the air temperature to 10-16 C degrees, but not more than 30 C at the ceiling.

Before starting plastering work, it is necessary to get rid of icing on the surfaces and warm the room well.

Lime-gypsum, as well as lime plaster, is usually dried for about 10-15 days. During the drying process, the room is ventilated every half an hour. Slightly less need to dry cement plaster or cement-lime. About 6-7 days without airing the room is necessary to dry this plaster. Ventilation is excluded so that moist air, which is necessary during this period of plaster hardening, remains in the room.

When working with plaster, in order to temporarily heat a building or rooms to dry walls, different heating devices are used.

Solutions with potassium carbonate

For plastering facades and reinforced structures, solutions with the addition of potash (potassium carbonate) can be used. These solutions do not cause metal corrosion. On a solution with potassium carbonate, cement-lime mixtures and cement mortars are prepared. Potassium carbonate itself is added in an amount of 1% of the dry mixture if the air temperature is -5C. If the air temperature is -5 ... -15C, then the addition of potassium is 1.5%. And if the temperature is below -15C, then the additive is 2%.

For high-quality work, you need to use solutions that are prepared 1 hour before use. when applied, they must be preheated to + 5 .... + 10 C. Lighthouses are also made from a solution that is used for plastering surfaces. Under conditions of low temperature, spraying is not applied to the surface to be treated, but a liquid-like solution is prepared, which is immediately placed on the base with a layer with a thickness of about 10 ... 12 mm.

The primer is leveled, cuts are made and a coating of 7 ... 8 mm is applied over its hardened layer. Then it is overwritten, without wetting with water.

Solutions with sodium nitrite

Solutions where sodium nitrite is used as an antifreeze additive are used when the average daily temperature is -15 C. The percentage of sodium nitrite in the mixture depends on both the air temperature and the waterproof ratio.

Solutions with ammonia water

Solutions where ammonia water is used do not give efflorescence. This water is used in cement-lime, cement-sand mortars. Such solutions, where gypsum and clay are used and one pure lime, the addition of ammonia water is prohibited. Lime dough can be diluted with ammonia water at a temperature of at least 5 C. Ammonia water can also be used to prepare solutions with the addition of alkali-resistant pigments.

Plaster winter-spring - a forum of country residents. house and cottage.

I'll add my five cents. plastering in winter is not worth it. Moisture won't evaporate quickly. and if it freezes in the walls, then with the onset of heat, everything can be started anew - the plaster will fall off. even with fiber it is impossible to plaster at temperatures below +5, if according to the norms. in my opinion, even +7 is no longer worth it. means indoor temperature. if the room is heated, but it is cold outside, then you can plaster, but it will take longer to dry than in summer. so the layers should be thinner.

Facade plastering in winter

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Finishing facades with plaster

Our company offers its customers plastering work, which our specialists perform both in the construction of new buildings and in the production of capital and current repair facade. Finishing facades with plaster is one of the main activities of our company.

Textured facade plaster

Today, such a method of decorating walls in residential premises as applying textured plaster is very popular. Thanks to all sorts of reliefs and a varied palette with the help of textured plaster, a beautiful design of the room is created. For creating decorative coating used by specialists in embossed and textured plasters.

Plastering of house facades

Plastering of facades of houses - facades, often chosen in and areas for the facade. Facade plastering - traditional way devices and this is not accidental, since this method is distinguished by a relatively low price and good work results, confirmed over a long period of their use.

Estimate for facade plastering

The estimate for the plastering of the facade is provided to the customer upon completion of the work. The estimate for the plastering of the facade is a document that describes all types of work performed, their (including tax collection). The deadlines for the completion of work and an indication of the object at which finishing work is to be carried out are also indicated in this document.

Plastering of wooden facades

The facade is the front part of the building, it is on it that the first impression of the house is formed. It is necessary to take into account the fact that the facade protects the building from external influences. Usage modern materials, plastering of wooden facades allows not only to achieve high aesthetic performance, but also to solve a number of technological problems.

Plastering of the facades of houses made of foam concrete

Foam concrete must be protected from cracking and carbonization. Plastering the facades of foam concrete houses is an affordable measure to achieve this goal. The plastering of the facades of foam concrete houses must be done at a professional level, otherwise the properties of the walls may not improve their qualities, but, on the contrary, reduce frost resistance, vapor permeability, thermal conductivity, condensation, and other physical and chemical properties.

Facade plastering technology

Polymer-mineral compositions are manufactured in the factory and at the construction site, the compositions are brought to the finished state according to the manufacturer's instructions. Finishing work is produced at a temperature of wall surfaces not lower than +5 °С and not higher than +30 °С and at a relative air humidity of not more than 70%, while exposing these surfaces to direct sunlight is excluded, and it is also not allowed to do exterior finishing during or immediately after the rain.

Facade plaster repair

Repair of the plaster of the facade of the house can be carried out with improper settlement of the house, improper operation and other reasons due to which cracks appear on the surface of the plaster over time. From repeated painting with glue paints, a thick paint layer can form on the plaster, which will crack and crumble. All this requires repair of the plaster facade of the building.

Facade plastering prices

In Russia, in the construction markets, you can buy all kinds of plaster existing species both domestic and foreign production. The cost of plaster from different manufacturers can differ markedly, therefore, applying decorative plaster to the facade can have a different cost.

Wet facade plaster

About half of all heat loss occurs through walls, so in order to save precious heat, it is necessary to arrange a “wet” external insulation system.

Facade plastering for insulation

The device of a plaster facade for insulation is usually used in cases where: the design of the house requires finishing the facade with plaster; the walls of the house need additional insulation.

Decorative facade plaster

Decorative plaster - the final layer of the facade of the building. A layer of decorative plaster sometimes borders on a very aggressive environment, so it must have certain qualities, such as: moisture resistance, strength, good adhesion to the surface being trimmed.

Facade finishing decorative plaster

To date, one of the most popular types of wall decoration is the decoration of the facade with decorative plaster. One of the advantages of this type of lining is easy application, which will not be difficult, and the result will exceed any expectations. The construction market currently has a large number of shades of plaster.

Facade plaster work

There are several types of facade plaster: Mineral plasters. The advantages of this type of plaster are low cost, good vapor permeability, low water absorption and durability. Mineral plasters are very durable, resistant to cracking, do not attract dust and are maintainable. Minor scaffolding damage to the pavement can be repaired with little effort. But at the same time, mineral plasters require subsequent painting, which increases labor costs and the time required for the construction of the facade.

Sealing of interpanel seams

Our company offers a lot of high-altitude work using industrial mountaineering techniques, one of the areas that we actively practice is the sealing of interpanel seams. Sealing - complex construction works to protect premises from heat leakage and dampness and drafts. Our industrial climbers will seal the seams, both in new buildings and in residential buildings. This type of work is carried out both at the final stages of building construction (primary

Facade painting

Facade painting has been and remains one of the most common types of exterior decoration, despite the variety of facade materials on the modern construction market. Such popularity can be explained by the huge number of plastered facades in Moscow and the Moscow region, as well as by the fact that this type of work guarantees the protection of walls from environmental influences, and, of course, the variety of colors and shades make it possible to realize the most bold ideas for the design of the façade.

Facade plastering

Plaster coating (or facade plastering) is the method that is most often chosen in Moscow and the Moscow region of all options facade design. The popularity of plastered facades is such that at the moment almost 80% of buildings in Russia have plastered facades. Facade plastering is a traditional way of building a facade, which is relatively inexpensive and at the same time has shown good results over a long service life.

Capital repairs of the facade

The overhaul of the facade is not a banal painting of the walls with the elimination of cracks using cement mortar. Overhaul of the facade is, first of all, a rather laborious work that requires certain skills, dexterity and, of course, a high level of professionalism from the performer.

Not so long ago, the "Rules for the maintenance and repair of facades", approved by the government, came into force in the city of St. Petersburg.

Repair of ventilated facades

Hinged ventilated facade - includes a structure, which, in turn, from the cladding (protective and decorative coating), the cladding is mounted on the frame, due to this, the repair of ventilated facades is not so complicated. Since the cladding screen is arranged with special cladding panels, in case of damage, the repair of ventilated facades consists in replacing the damaged panels with new ones, while not affecting the rest of the surface of the curtain wall.

Facade repair and restoration

Repair and restoration of facades, such works are considered the most difficult types of construction work, since the performer requires extensive experience in the restoration of facades and the reproduction of the decorative elements of the building.

Redecoration of the facade

A significant part of high-altitude work is the redecoration of the facade and overhaul building facade. Redecoration of the facade includes painting, removing cracks and minor defects, as well as washing the facade.

Brick facade repair

The main reasons for the detection of deformations and the appearance of damage to brick facades are: errors, both constructive and in production, as well as a low level of design, so unsatisfactory operation can be the result, all these reasons inevitably lead to the repair of a brick facade.

How to dry plaster in the house in winter?

Tell me please! We plastered the walls in the house a month ago with lime plaster. The house is new, they built it only this summer, they also launched heating a month ago (batteries, a gas boiler on cylinders). Of course, we don’t live there ourselves, we stop by once every 3 days to change the cylinders, open the windows, ventilate, for an hour somewhere. The house has very high humidity, there are puddles on the windows (every time we wipe the windows and squeeze out the rags - we collect half a bucket of water and pour it out). We keep +15 in the house. The plaster dries in places, but drops still hang on some walls. They don't dry at all. Especially the north side of the house. And now it’s generally outside and the humidity is high and frosts are -15. We open the windows for half an hour in the whole house, so immediately in the house +3. We are drowning again ... It takes a cylinder a day ...

The fact is that we need to move in at the end of March to live in a house with 2 children (one newborn) Therefore, we want to have time to dry the plaster in February, putty the walls and so that by the end of March the whole thing will dry up with us so that we can live in house... Is it real? Tell me, how can we have time to dry the walls in a month in winter, or is this not possible? In March, we will have time to lay tiles in the bathroom, install plumbing, lay laminate in all rooms, etc. d. The only thing is, will there be such humidity in the house? Will the walls dry out?

oh, yes, a week ago we still poured a finishing screed - from the walls, in general, the moisture went again, even where the walls were more or less dry - along the perimeter of the rooms, moisture rises on the walls everywhere by 30-40 cm (so I'm afraid that in a month we we won’t make it in time (either give me some hope or let me down already? What are our chances? Or how to increase them?