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Retractable gates. How to make a sliding gate with your own hands? Fabrication and installation of canvas

Sliding gates, which until recently were a luxury item and cost a lot of money, are gradually entering the market for the average consumer. Ease of use and space saving fully justify the investment. There are a huge number of offers of finished structures from various domestic and foreign manufacturers. Many companies provide services for the manufacture and installation of such gates.

But if you have even a little experience with a welding machine and minimal skills in construction, then it will not be difficult to make such a structure with your own hands, thereby saving a decent amount of money.

Peculiarities

Sliding gates began to be actively used more than 50 years ago. At first, they could be seen mainly at the entrance to large industrial and storage areas. Over time, the design and fittings improved and became more accessible and easier to install. Gradually, various options for sliding gates began to be installed in private areas, and today they are not uncommon for a summer cottage.

Sliding gates have many more advantages than lift and swing gates:

Compactness. This is especially true in cases where travel between neighboring plots and space in the yard are limited. Also, sliding gates practically exclude the possibility of damage to the car by the wings.
Wear resistance. The main disadvantage of swing gates is the presence of hinges that are prone to sagging under the weight of the wings. Sliding gates do not have such problems due to the uniform distribution of the weight of the structure over the roller bearings.
Burglary resistance. A properly designed and built system can withstand a heavy traffic ram.

Sail protection. Even heavy gusts of wind do not cause damage to such structures.
Availability of automatic drives. The motor and components of automatic sliding gates are cheaper than equipment that is installed on swing and lifting structures.
In winter, snow removal is not required before opening the sash.

Despite all these advantages, before proceeding with the manufacture and installation of gates, many other factors must be taken into account.

First you need to calculate the width of the span for the entry of the car. Usually, for the private sector, an opening equal to 4 meters is recommended: both cars and trucks can freely enter it. If necessary, the width of the entrance can be reduced to 3 or increased to 6 meters or more.

The free space along the fence on the rollback side of the sash must correspond to:

for suspended and wheeled types of structures - the width of the web,
for cantilever gates - 40-50% more than the leaf width.

Deep into the site at a distance of 40-50 cm from the fence, the space must be left free. The relief of the soil should be as even as possible, without strong drops, so that there are no obstacles along the way of the lower beam.

If you study the instructions in detail, prepare high-quality materials and tools, you can make strong and beautiful gates with an individual design in a short time.

Construction types

The main difference between the types of sliding structures lies in the way the rollers move when opening and closing the gate. Each of the varieties uses special roller mechanisms, but they are installed in different ways.

Suspended construction type

The gate leaf moves on roller trolleys located on a support beam, which is mounted on poles in the upper part of the passage. This is the most durable and wear-resistant option. The beam can withstand quite a lot of weight, so any materials can be used for facing the gate, and the width of the leaf is practically unlimited. The disadvantage is that the passage of a tall vehicle can be limited by a carrier beam.

Suspended structures are most often installed in production areas. To increase the space for passage, the beam is mounted on high support pillars. This greatly increases the metal consumption and cost of the entire structure, so this option is rarely considered for the private sector.

The photo shows an example of hanging sliding gates at the entrance to the production.

But if the height of the entrance to the territory of a private house is initially limited by decorative or other structural elements, hanging gates will do just fine.

Rail type construction

This type of sliding gate is the easiest to manufacture and install. The supporting part is the so-called rail, along which the sash moves on a special roller. A rail is installed along the gate movement line at the same level with the roadway so as not to interfere with the passage of vehicles. The maximum span between the fence posts can be 6 meters.

Snow can clog into the rail and ice can form, preventing the entire structure from working properly. In addition, it requires constant cleaning from sand and dirt.

The foundation holding the main rail must be stable, without chips and cracks, otherwise the gate can be deformed and quickly become unusable. The rail type of gate is usually used in cottages and houses that are visited only in the summer.

Cantilever type of construction

This type is the most common version of sliding gates, which is a leaf with a counterweight mounted on cantilever blocks. The absence of contact of the lower bearing beam with the roadway is the main advantage of this design. Thanks to this, problems due to bad weather are almost completely eliminated.

Among the shortcomings, one can single out the long process of pouring the foundation for the mortgage and the complexity of installing the console. The total length of the structure is 50% longer than the gate leaf, which makes it impossible to install it with a large opening and insufficient width of the site.

Such gates can be made with a built-in gate, but this is not always convenient. Since the canvas is raised from the ground by about 8-10 cm, the threshold of such a gate can be difficult for small children and the elderly to pass.

More convenient to use and more aesthetic in appearance will be a separate gate, which is arranged close to the gate - in a place where the sash rollback is not provided.

All three types of roll-out structures can be made mechanical or automatic. Mechanical gates open and close manually, while automatic gates are controlled by a remote control and set in motion with the help of a special motor. If desired, automation can be installed a little later, during the operation period, using the services of specialists.

The main labor costs fall on the manufacture and installation of the door leaf. Sheathing is one-sided and two-sided. The view from the entrance is no different.

Principle of operation

Cantilever doors are best suited for regions with changing weather conditions. Their production, installation and maintenance do not require excessive financial costs. For self-production of the structure, first of all, you need to figure out on what principle it works.

The device of cantilever retractable gates is quite simple:

Gate cloth. The main frame with the internal frame welded to it and the counterweight are mounted on the lower carrier beam. Fence cladding, which is most often done using corrugated sheets, is fixed to the frame on one or both sides.
Mortgage. Channel, firmly welded to the reinforcing cage and poured with a foundation at ground level. This is one of the most important parts of the structure, on which console units and automation are installed. The durability of the entire fence structure depends on the quality of the foundation.
console blocks. Special roller support mechanisms, which are welded to the channel and installed in the lower load-bearing beam. The cantilever part is the main component of the entire structure, which bears all the loads. It depends on it how smoothly and freely the canvas will move, so you need to approach the setting of the console blocks very carefully.

Catchers. The lower and upper catchers are mounted on a support post located opposite the foundation for the roller bearings. When the gate is closed, the end roller, which is located at the end of the carrier beam, drives into the lower catcher. The canvas is raised by 5 mm, due to this, the load on the console blocks is removed. The upper catcher is needed in order to tightly fix the gate and prevent windage - swinging of the gate in strong winds.
Upper fixing holder with rollers. Mounted on a support post above the cantilever blocks and prevents swinging and distortion of the gate during movement.
Automatic drive. The choice of drive mainly depends on the weight of the structure and the weather conditions in the region. Installation is carried out according to the instructions that come with the equipment.

Automation

The retractable design is already convenient in itself, but if it is equipped with an electric drive, there is no need to get out of the car each time to open or close the gate. Experts advise installing special drives, but at your own peril and risk, you can make such a mechanism yourself.

To do this, use a suitable power motor and gearbox. There are precedents when a screwdriver was used as an engine. Also, if the leaf weight is small, it is possible to install a cheaper drive for garage doors.

Special drives must be selected based primarily on the weight of the structure:

For gates weighing 250-300 kg, a drive with a power of 200-250 watts is suitable.
For a weight of 500-600 kg, a suitable power is 350-400 watts.
For 800-1000 kg - 500-600 W.

When choosing automation, you should always take a small margin of power. And in regions with severe winters, it needs to be increased by at least 20-30% so that the motor runs without interruption during sudden temperature changes. You can install the drive only when all the work on the manufacture and installation of the structure has been completed. The gate leaf should move easily, without jumps and swaying. An incorrectly installed blade can damage and ruin the automation.

Automatic drives can be selected from a variety of proposals from domestic and foreign manufacturers. You need to pay attention to such details as gears in the gearbox.

They can be plastic or metal. Metal gears are more expensive but much more durable, so it's best to prefer them.

You should also carefully consider the selection of the limit switch. Its magnetic version costs a little more, but unlike the metal one, it does not jam in winter and works smoothly. For ease of use, there are various additional functions: temperature control of the electric drive, adjustment of the speed of movement of the leaf, backup power, photocells for entry and exit, gate mode.

Among the manufacturers of drives for withdrawable structures, the following can be noted: Russian Doorhan, Belarusian An-Motors, Italian BFT, Faac and Nice, French Came, Chinese PS-IZ and Miller, as well as other manufacturers. Their range of offers is quite large, it remains only to choose the right equipment and you can proceed with the installation.

Consider the automation kit using the example of the diagram above:

drive unit;
photocells for departure;
photocells at the entrance;
signal lamp;
radio control antenna;
key-button;
rail;
limit switch plates;
remote control.

For work, you will need an inverter welding machine with electrodes and a drill with metal drills. Initially, on the channel between the carriages, it is necessary to prepare and mark the area for mounting the electric drive. The equipment is attached to the base, which comes with the automation, and a gear rack is installed in the center of the motor gear.

After the working position has been recreated, it is necessary to weld the base to the channel. If the actuator needs to be raised, then a profile pipe of a suitable size can be additionally welded between the base and the channel.

After the drive is bolted to the base, you need to re-install the gear rack on the motor gear, mark its correct position on the profile or beam with a marker and carefully grab it by welding. Before fully welding the seam between the rail and the beam, you need to check once again that it is installed correctly.

The gate must be fully open while working on the welding machine. At the end of all actions, limit switches are screwed to the rail with the help of bolts and nuts with flanges. Further, according to the instructions, the installation of photocells, a signal lamp, an antenna and a key-button is carried out.

The electric drive can be installed not only in the lower, but also in the middle or upper parts of the gate.

This method of summing up the automation is somewhat more complicated, but in cases of heavy snowfalls, it will not be necessary to clear the foundation site from precipitation daily.

In this case, it will be necessary to adjust the drawing to the desired design.

The profile to which the gear rack will be attached will be located on the middle or upper level of the sliding gate, respectively. To mount the automation, it will be necessary to build on an additional structure made of a metal profile of a rectangular section 60x40 mm.

Instead of a special electric drive, you can install a home-made drive from improvised materials. Taking into account the mains voltage, a three-phase or single-phase motor is installed on the site. The three-phase drive is more powerful and virtually eliminates problems when starting the movement. Depending on the weight of the door leaf, a motor with a power of 1.5 to 2.5 kW is required. At the same time, a low engine speed gives less load on the drive shaft.

It is better to choose a drive with 12 poles and 500 rpm or 6 poles and 1000 rpm. The drive can be purchased at specialized stores, or you can use spare parts from an old car or washing machine.

The input torque of the gearbox must match the speed of the drive. The output torque frequency of the drive wheel should be between 80-100 rpm. It will be more convenient to use a single-stage gearbox. Its connection to the motor shaft is made using a rigid or semi-rigid coupling.

Features of calculations

Before proceeding with the design of the drawing, you need to make all the necessary calculations. First of all, the height and width of the gate are calculated. If the height of the fence on the site is known, then the height of the future canvas can be determined as follows: the upper part should be on the same level as the fence, and the lower part should be 8-10 cm higher than the roadway. The width of the gate is equal to the distance between the support beams, the recommended value is 4 meters.

Calculating the counterweight is also quite simple - its length should be equal to 50% of the length of the opening. This value can be reduced to 40% only in cases where there is not enough space for the fence to fully open the sash and the canvas is sheathed with lightweight materials.

The length of the counterweight profile connecting the top of the web and the edge of the bottom profile should be enough to form a triangle.

The value is calculated according to the dimensions using the following formula:

sqrt( func a^(2) + func b^(2) )

Or in a more familiar form, familiar from school

Where a is the length of the counterweight, b is the height of the web, c is the desired length.

The calculation of the weight of the structure is necessary for the correct selection of the guide beam, fittings and automation. Basically, the weight depends on the material with which the sheathing will be made, on the weight of the frame, frame and supporting beam, and on the wind load.

If 1 sq. m profile sheet weighs 4 kg, then a steel sheet 2 mm thick weighs 17 kg. The weight of forged, wooden and other skins is calculated individually. On average, a gate with a 4x2 m leaf, sheathed with a profile, will weigh about 200 kg.

For gates weighing up to 300 kg, a supporting beam with dimensions of 9x5 cm and a metal thickness of 3.5 mm is suitable. The hardware must be able to support the full weight of the structure. It can be purchased as a complete set or purchased separately. When buying, it is advisable to have a drawing with all the calculations so that you can consult with a specialist.

Drawing design

A diagram or drawing of a sliding gate is made after all measurements have been taken. A drawing with all calculations is ordered from specialized companies. You can find ready-made sketches on the Internet, make them yourself or use the ones below. For structures with a span of 4 meters, you can choose one of the two drawings presented.

In the first case, the power frame is 10% larger than the opening, which increases the consumption of facing material. At the same time, the cost of the entire structure does not increase much, however, it is most often not expedient in such an increase in spending. Therefore, consider the second drawing, all calculations will be made on the basis of it.

The drawing must clearly indicate all dimensions, places of welding and fastenings. Fastening of the toothed rack is possible both to the bearing beam and to the bottom profile of the frame.

For light gates sheathed with a profile 4 meters wide and 2 meters high, you will need:

Bearing beam, which is a rail, the upper part of which is solid, and in the lower part there is a longitudinal cut. It is better to choose a design made of cold rolled steel. The beam is mounted on cantilever blocks and moves on bearing rollers. The size of the rail in this case is 60x70 mm, the required length is 6 meters.

For the power frame, you need a rectangular profile of 60x40 mm and a metal thickness of 2 mm in segments:

1 piece 4 meters long;
1 segment - 6 meters;
2 segments - approximately 2 meters each;
1 piece - about 2.8 meters.

In total, almost 17 meters of such a profile will be needed.

For the frame, a rectangular profile of 20x20 mm or 30x20 mm with a metal thickness of 2 mm is suitable. In total, you need about 24 meters of profile.

For a mortgage, you will need a channel 20-40 cm wide and a length equal to ½ of the gate opening: in this case, 2 meters. The thickness of the metal must be at least 3 mm. Cantilever blocks, an electric drive mechanism will be installed on the channel, fastened by welding.

For the foundation frame, at least 15-20 meters of reinforcement with a cross section of 12-16 mm are required.

The thickness and dimensions of each part of the drawing directly depend on the material that will be used to sheath the sash.

If the cladding is made with a profiled sheet or polycarbonate, the accessories indicated above are sufficient.

If it is planned to be sheathed with steel sheets or forging, then stronger elements will be needed. After preparing the drawing and calculating the exact dimensions of all its components, you can proceed to the purchase of materials and the manufacture of the gate.

materials

To make a simple gate measuring 4x2 meters with corrugated board cladding, you need to purchase the following materials:

rectangular profile 60x40 mm for the power frame and 20x20 or 30x20 mm for the frame;
guide beam 60x70 mm;
corrugated board 8-10 sq. m;

rivets or self-tapping screws for fastening the skin in an amount of about 200 pieces;
channel 40x200 cm;
reinforcing bars 15 meters.

Forged elements themselves represent the inner frame of the gate and are attached to the power frame by welding. Such gates do not require additional sheathing, except perhaps as a design solution.

Accessories can be purchased separately or as a special ready-made kit. Well-established manufacturers of fittings for sliding gates, such as:

Italian - Combi Arialdo and Flatelli Comunello;
Russian - Rolltek and Doorhan;
Belarusian Alutech.

Self-manufacturing of roller components is impractical, as it requires special skills and tools. To mount a cantilever gate, you will need the following fittings:

Roller bearings - 2 pcs. They are also called cantilever blocks or carriages. It is recommended to use designs with bearings.
Upper catcher - 1 pc. It is better to use catchers with guide wheels. It is possible to manufacture homemade catchers.
Lower catcher - 1 pc.
Upper retainer - 1-2 pcs.
End roller - 1 pc.
Caps for the carrier beam - 2 pcs.

The wheels in the support and end rollers can be either metal or plastic. At the same time, the metal parts are more durable, but they make noise when the door leaf moves. Plastic will last a little less, and with proper operation the same amount, but such gates will move quietly.

For fastening the catchers and the upper latch, metal poles from a rectangular section profile 60x40 mm are needed. They are installed on a foundation reinforced with reinforcement to a depth greater than the freezing of the soil.

If the fastening is made on brick or reinforced concrete supports, then their size must be at least 20x20 cm.

Metal mortgages are attached to the pillars with anchor bolts, to which the upper retainer and the counter post from a profile pipe with a section of 30x20 mm will be welded. Instead of anchors, reinforcing bars can be removed from the pillars and mortgages can be attached to them.

Mounting of photocells at the entrance is carried out on pipes of rectangular or round section with a diameter of at least 30 mm. The height of the pipes should not exceed 1 meter. Their installation must also be carried out on the foundation, but without reinforcing with reinforcement. The exit photocells are mounted on support poles.

Manufacturing

In order to make your own sliding gates the following tools are required:

inverter welding machine and electrodes;
riveter or screwdriver;
grinder with interchangeable discs for cutting and grinding;

concrete mixer, shovel or rod for piercing concrete;
marker, tape measure, hammer, pliers, drill, building or laser level;
spray gun or air compressor for applying primer and paint. You can use brushes and rollers, but then the layer will turn out to be thicker and more heterogeneous;
protective equipment for eyes, respiratory tract and hands.

You will also need an anti-corrosion primer, acetone or other solvent, alkyd or acrylic paint for outdoor use.

The step-by-step instructions for the manufacture and installation of retractable gates provide information on how to do all the work yourself:

At the initial stage, a foundation should be made for the mortgage and, if necessary, for supporting pillars. Under the mortgage, a hole is marked and dug to the depth of soil freezing. Depending on the region, it can be - from 1 to 2 m. The length of the foundation is ½ of the width of the opening, in this case - 2 meters. The width of the pit is 40-50 cm. Depending on the depth of the pit, crushed stone and sand must be covered in layers of 10-30 cm and each layer carefully compacted.

The reinforcement frame is made by welding the rods together, and then the channel is welded to the finished frame. The resulting structure is installed in the pit exactly along the ground line close to the fence post. Horizontalness must be checked with a laser or building level. If you plan to install automatic gates, before pouring the foundation, it is necessary to conduct wiring to the channel in a plastic or metal pipe with a diameter of at least 2.5 cm.

Concrete for the foundation is mixed in a concrete mixer in the ratio:

1 part of cement M400 or M500;
3 parts sand;
3 pieces of gravel.

For a pit 1 meter high, 2 meters long and 50 cm wide, you will need about 1 cubic meter. m of concrete. During the pouring process, the solution must be periodically pierced with a shovel or reinforcement bar to release excess air.

The first 3-7 days, the flooded foundation must be watered with water to prevent the formation of cracks and chips.

Under the foundation for the support post, you need a hole measuring 50x50 cm. It is better to install the support post on the inside of the site so as not to reduce the gate opening. The preparation of the pit, mortar and reinforcing cage is carried out according to the example of a mortgage. The counter post and channel can also be installed on screw piles, but this design, depending on the soil, may be less durable.

The next stage is the manufacture of the door leaf. The metal profile for the frame and frame is cut with a grinder according to the dimensions indicated in the drawing. On a special stand, which should be larger than the finished structure, the components of the power frame are laid out and, if necessary, adjusted in size.

The joints must first be spot-welded, and then all seams must be completely welded. To exclude the possibility of water or snow entering the web structure, all holes must be welded.

The seams are carefully polished with a grinder or sandpaper to an acceptable appearance. The inside of the frame, which will be in contact with the frame, must be degreased with a solvent and coated with two layers of anti-corrosion primer.

The second primer coat can be applied only after the first has completely dried. The primer coating of the inside of the frame at this stage is carried out because after the connection with the frame, processing of the closed surface will no longer be possible.

After the power frame is ready, it is necessary to weld the frame in the same way. The processing of seams and priming of the surface is carried out according to the same principle, but the outer side of the frame is primed, which will be in contact with the power frame. After the coating has dried, the frame is installed inside the frame.

The centering of the inner frame relative to the frame is made depending on the method of door plating. If the cladding is carried out only from the outside, then the frame is welded close to the outer part of the frame. With double-sided cladding, the frame is installed exactly in the middle.

The welding of the frame with the frame is carried out very carefully so that the structure does not skew due to overheating of the metal.

First, fastening is done with small welding points at a distance of 50 cm from each other. Then the joints are welded in small segments of 1-2 cm from different sides, and only the remaining segments of 5-10 cm can be boiled immediately. Work must be performed on both sides of the canvas. The carrier beam is welded to the frame according to the same principle.

At the final stage of manufacturing the fabric, the welds are polished, the surface is degreased with a solvent, primed and painted. Priming and painting is best done in two or three layers, while the second layer is applied only after the first has completely dried. Coatings must be applied evenly so that there are no streaks and bumps. To do this, it is better to use a special compressor.

The corrugated board is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver or rivets using a special riveter. The first fastenings are made at the corners of the canvas, and then around the entire perimeter at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other. If one profiled sheet is not enough, then each next sheet is overlapped on the previous one.

Mounting

The installation of the door leaf occurs only after the foundation has completely solidified, which is possible 10-28 days after pouring. The drying rate depends on the composition of the solution, temperature and humidity of the environment.

First, with the help of a laser level or a lace, the trajectory of the movement of the gate leaf is outlined. At the maximum distance from each other, roller bearings are installed on the channel.

Sliding gates are placed on carriages with a guide rail so that the rollers are inside the carrier beam. During installation, you need to constantly maintain the fabric of the structure vertically, for this you will need the help of one or two people.

It is important to correctly adjust the position of the cantilever blocks and check the horizontalness of the lower beam with a building level.

The block, which is closer to the opening, is located so that in the open state of the gate the distance from the span to the roller is 15-20 cm. The second carriage with the gate closed should be at a distance of 5-10 cm from the end of the rail. In this position, the roller mechanisms are slightly welded to the channel, the whole structure is once again checked for ease of walking on the rollers.

If all the mechanisms are working correctly, the canvas must be removed from the console blocks, the carriages from the lower platforms, and the platforms themselves must be completely welded to the channel.

It is not necessary to fasten the platforms to the channel using the bolts that come with the kit. If it turns out that even a small error occurred during installation, it will no longer be possible to unscrew such bolts. To reinstall, you will have to cut them off and do all the steps again.

Roller trolleys are again fixed on the platforms, the canvas is put on them and, with the gate closed, the final adjustment is made with a wrench. The upper fixing roller is attached by welding to a metal pole or a mortgage in a brick pole, which is located above the foundation.

The reciprocal pole must be installed on the foundation or fixed by welding on mortgages on a brick pole. The length of the post should be equal to the height of the gate leaf or slightly higher. The lower and upper catchers are welded to the counter post. The lower one is fixed by 5 mm. above the run-in level of the end roller: this reduces the load on the supporting cantilever blocks when the gate is closed. The top catcher must be fixed 5 cm below the top of the gate leaf.

The end roller must be installed inside the guide beam and clamped with bolts. For greater strength, the roller can be welded into the guide rail. And finally, plugs are attached to the carrier beam on both sides, which are necessary so that snow and dirt do not get into the rail, which impede the operation of the structure. Rubber plugs are simply inserted into the rail, while metal plugs are attached by welding.

Decor

Decorating sliding gates is possible in a variety of ways. The sheathing of the gate itself can serve as a decoration, which can be made from a variety of materials.

Additional cladding with metal strips makes the gate more strict and massive in appearance.

Quite often, forged elements are attached to wooden and metal gates.

Installing a lock on automatic gates is usually not required, as they are driven by a remote control or a button. It is simply impossible to open such gates by hand. But for mechanical structures, locking elements and locks are required without fail. Most often, simple constipation is installed, which can hardly be called decorative.

Beautiful examples

The vertical crate on the fence looks concise and strict.

It is possible to combine corrugated board with crate.

Combined cladding with forging elements will always look expensive and presentable.

Gates made of wood or sandwich panels are also often decorated with wrought iron.

Forged structures without additional cladding are often used.

Forged gates with additional sheathing in transparent polycarbonate look very good.

For cladding, you can use tempered glass, which can be left transparent, darkened with tinting, or tried in combination with metal.

How to make a sliding gate with your own hands, see the following video.

Sliding gates are just the perfect option for a country house or cottage. They are comfortable, durable and reliable in operation. Now on the building materials market there is a very large assortment that is required for accessories for gates, so you can easily make sliding gates with your own hands. To do this, you only need a drawing, and in order to fully understand the principle of operation and take into account all the features of a sliding gate, you can watch a video clip or photo, which shows in detail how to make a sliding gate.

Description and principle of operation

Still relatively not so long ago, sliding gates were very rarely set up and the most common fence was simple swing gates. it explained by the high cost accessories for sliding gates. To date, a set of accessories for automatic gates has become much more affordable, and more and more homeowners are interested in how to install this design with their own hands.

Sliding gates for a private house can be of two types:

Console;
Rail.

The last option is an outdated variety; such gates can often be seen in factories. The most popular is the first option, which is now ubiquitous. These gates are equipped with an additional console, which is a continuation of the leaf. The console is located behind the fence adjacent to the gate and is hidden behind it.

The principle of operation of sliding gates of the cantilever type is as follows. A guide (aka a console) is rigidly welded to the frame of the sliding gate, due to which the leaf moves. The guide moves on retractable trolleys attached to the foundation.

Each cart equipped with 8 bearings with pressed metal or polymer rollers. Retractable trolleys are located inside the guides, which additionally protects them from atmospheric influences and prolongs the operating time.

Under normal conditions, the operation of the sliding gate system must withstand at least 60 thousand cycles - this is approximately 20 years of average use.

The main advantages of sliding sliding gates include:

can be controlled mechanically or using automation;
the possibility of passage of cars of any height (there are no guides at the bottom and top of the opening);
ease of installation (you can mount sliding gates with your own hands);
do not require additional maintenance.

The main disadvantage of installing sliding gates is the use of a rather large area for opening them. Often, due to lack of space, people refuse sliding in favor of swing structures.

Accessories

To install sliding gates with your own hands, you need to buy special accessories for mounting a sliding system.

Accessories for cantilever gates must include the following elements:

If automation is planned, then you need additionally purchase this kit, it consists of the following elements:

Gear rack (it is desirable to choose a galvanized rack). For large (more than 5 m) and heavy gates, a toothed rack with a thickness of at least 9 mm is required.
Reducer.
Remote control.
Photo sensors or light elements - they synchronize the arrival of the IF beam between the receiver and transmitter, prevent closing when an object is located in the opening.
Base for mounting.
Signal lamp.

Automation, installed from components of Italian and German manufacturers, is the most reliable and suitable for operation in various climatic regions.

When installing sliding gates with your own hands, you need to make provision for opening in the event of an automatic failure.

Sliding gate manufacturing

Let's consider in more detail how to install cantilever sliding gates with corrugated board sheathing.

Materials and tools

Of the tools you will need:

The most expensive tools (grinder, welding machine) do not have to be purchased, they can be rented - it will be more cost-effective.

For the construction of sliding gates, it is necessary prepare the following materials:

profile sheets for cladding;
profile pipe for assembling the frame (65x44x2-3) and jumpers (45x25x1-2);
sealant;
primer and paint;
console equipment;
channel 15-25 mm;
reinforcement with a diameter of 12-16 mm;
wires for automation (cable size - distance from the foundation to the electrical panel);
cladding fasteners (tacks and self-tapping screws).

Getting started: site preparation and drawing development

One of the most important steps in installing a sliding gate with your own hands is drawing up a drawing with a description of all dimensions (length, width, height, rollback space and clearances). The weight of the gate and the further choice of the console set will depend on the size of the structure and the material of the frame.

The width of the opening must be sufficient for the normal arrival of vehicles. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the width of the street - in narrow lanes it is better to build wide gates for the normal passage of the car.

To determine if the opening is convenient, you can insert a few pegs into the ground along the width of the gate and try to enter the yard by car.

The size of the opening determines the space required for rolling back the canvas. As a rule, the height of the gate is taken into account 10 cm less than the fence itself.

After creating the drawing, you can begin preparing the site for mounting the sliding gate. The opening must be leveled and cleaned of dirt and debris.

Separately, it is necessary to prepare a place for cutting, welding and painting the canvas and metal pipes. For this work, you can collect and put a few "goats".

Foundation laying and construction of supporting pillars

Installation of sliding gates must begin with the installation of support pillars. As this material, you can choose: concrete or brick pillar, steel pipe, oak beam, channel. It is necessary to install a support column to a depth of at least a meter.

Post installation steps:

Make a hole more than a meter deep.
Level it up.
Fill the hole with concrete.

It will take about a week for the concrete to completely harden. Therefore, in order not to waste time, you must first take care of the construction of support pillars.

Foundation laying is done like this:

The top of the channel must be located on the same level with the ground, forming a flat platform for the passage of the car. We leave the foundation to dry for another week, and during this time we are still making the frame of the gate and lining it with profile sheets.

Frame construction

According to the developed drawing, we cut pipes for jumpers and for the main structure. It is necessary to cut and measure the metal very carefully, controlling the accuracy of the inclination of the angles of the jumpers.

Before welding, all parts of the frame must be cleaned with a metal brush (scale removed from them), treated with an anti-corrosion agent for metal and degreased with a solvent.

Stages of welding the crate and frame:

To simplify the work, you can build a stand for welding: hammer stakes into the ground and lay out jumpers.
Pipes (transverse and longitudinal frames of the gate) are laid on the stand, they are seized with points, the diagonal of the frame is checked, and the joints are welded.
We lay the crate of the gate, grab it and determine its evenness. We weld the crate with small seams (one centimeter every 0.5 cm).
We clean the welding joints, degrease and paint the entire frame.

Frame installation and cladding

It is done in the following sequence:

After installation, you can begin the installation of automation. First you need to get acquainted with the instructions for the electric drive, watch the video and photo of the installation, since various automatic systems have certain differences and nuances of installation. But there are rules that apply without exception to all models:

DIY sliding gates will be much cheaper rather than ordering them from a specialized company. But still, to install them, you will have to purchase components and an automatic system. In addition, you need to be prepared that installing sliding gates with your own hands is a rather laborious process that requires accurate calculation, some skills and knowledge in construction.

More and more owners of private houses choose retractable gate. Production is quite a costly activity, so many people decide to make sliding gates with their own hands. This will also require certain costs, you will have to buy materials and deal with the availability of tools, but in the end you will get a wonderful high-quality gate at an affordable price.

It is worth considering that even independent work will cost more than another type of gate, but quality, durability and comfort are a great motivation to make a choice in their favor. To make sliding gates with your own hands, drawings and diagrams will come in handy. You can use ready-made schemes that you will find in this manual.

How to make a sliding gate with your own hands? First of all, you need to deal with the materials.

You will need painted corrugated board, rectangular pipes of different sizes, fittings, primer, self-tapping screws and automation. The most expensive on this list are accessories that you can buy as a set and automation, which includes a drive with a control unit, a rail and remotes. If you wish, you can take care of security.

Thus, you need to select a sufficient amount of material. To get started, you will need a drawing and dimensional information so as not to overpay for extra items. For example, if the gate is 3X2, then corrugated board will need 6 m2, and pipes a certain number of kilograms.

Having learned the dimensions, making sure that this drawing is suitable, you can start buying material. You can use the drawings from this manual, already proven schemes will not cause inconvenience. Next, you need to make sure that you have the tools necessary to build a sliding gate with your own hands.

Tool preparation

Prepare or borrow a grinder, grinder, concrete mixer, brick laying tool, screwdriver, stepladder, shovels, hammer, level, wrenches, crowbar and tape measure from friends.

The list turned out to be quite extensive, and if you have not acquired a particular instrument, you should not buy it right away, perhaps your friends have it or have the opportunity to rent it. Because with the purchase of equipment, you are unlikely to save on installing sliding gates with your own hands.

When everything is ready, it is worth starting directly to work.

Sliding gates with their own hands. Installation

We are preparing - an important stage

To get started, do some preliminary work. The vegetation layer of the earth will have to be removed, if there is another coating in this place, you still have to get rid of it. For convenience, you need the marking of future sliding gates.

Further, in the process of laying out, it is necessary to use four reinforcing elements of 1 meter each and electrodes - axes (permanent and temporary). Before hammering the rebar, make sure that the diagonals of the rectangle match. After that, score, leaving 20 centimeters on the surface. A fishing line is superimposed between the reinforcement. From the main axes, you can create temporary ones.

Advice. Do not forget that the hole for the post must be slightly wider than its size. For example, with a pillar size of 40X40 cm, the pit should be at least 42X42 cm. The foundation will be wider and it will become easier for you to lay bricks.

The embedded part also requires certain conditions from the foundation. The pit must be half the length of the gate opening.

Advice. Consider the climate of your area when creating holes. The depth must be large, greater than the freezing depth. If the foundation is too close to the top, the frozen soil will push it out, the structure will turn out to be unreliable. Sometimes the depth can be almost one and a half meters, you should not be dismissive at this stage.

When the walls crumble during the creation of the pit, formwork cannot be dispensed with. In this case, you can save money by choosing old material, the boards will be covered with soil.

Pour the finished pits with water to achieve tamping. If further work will continue later, be sure to cover them and protect them from rain, which can wash them out.

In order not to spoil the passage later, dig a trench in advance, where a sleeve with an electric cable will be laid, so that later you can connect the sliding gate automation easily and quickly. For this work, you will need a regular plastic water pipe, choose a diameter of about 20 mm. At the moment when the sleeve is laid, cover the ends of the pipe with polyethylene, which will protect against dirt and moisture. When the sleeve has been laid and backfilled, pour water over the place where the laying has taken place in order to achieve tamping of the soil.

So far, the sliding gate sketch has been little used, but in the future it will still be very useful.

Preparing the pillars

The function of the core will be performed by metal products, in this case, pipes. It is better to take rectangular products with dimensions of 80X80 mm or 100X100 mm. Round metal pipes are also suitable, we take a diameter of 80 mm.

The pipe above the ground (its upper part) should be slightly lower than the post, a couple of centimeters is enough. If, for example, a pillar is 2.5 m high, then the core must be 2.45 m. The part underground should not reach the bottom of the pit. 5 cm is also enough. If the pit is 90 cm deep, then the lower part of the pipe is 85 cm.

Advice. To achieve maximum strength of the core, so that the construction of sliding gates with your own hands is strong, you can make a kind of reinforcement by welding two reinforcing elements crosswise at the bottom. The length of the welded parts is 25 cm.

When the pipe is installed in the pit, protect it from moisture by covering it with something.

Do-it-yourself sliding gates: creating an embedded part

Your work as a whole will depend on the quality of this element, because the embedded part affects the movement of the gate and the electric drive.

For this element, a channel is quite suitable, the width of which is approximately 20 cm, but not less than 16. The length should correspond to half the width of the gate opening.

In order for the channel to hold securely and durably in concrete, it will be necessary to weld the reinforcement. Again, a welding machine will come in handy. For work, select 4 pieces of reinforcement, the length of which should be approximately 90 cm. Weld on both sides and tie with reinforcing jumpers, choosing a diameter of 10 mm.

Concrete foundation for sliding gates

The preparation of metal products is in principle completed, you can proceed to a new stage of work. It is necessary to pour the foundation for the sliding gate with your own hands. As a standard, it is better to take the brand of concrete M200. We prepare the mixture: 1 bucket of cement, sand - 3 in, crushed stone - 5 in. (fraction 5-20 or 20-40). Considering the total volume of the batch, use 20% water.

Wait until the temperature is normal, because in the cold you will have to use additional anti-freeze additives. If the temperature outside is normal plus, you can start the process of concreting.

Before pouring the concrete foundation for sliding gates with your own hands, make sure once again that all metal structures in the pits have not shifted and are securely located. Under the weight of concrete, they can move, make sure that this does not happen. Using a level, check how level the installation is by checking horizontally and vertically.

Channel - exactly at the level of the horizon surface, if the passage is not ready, calculate the distance of the top. Ideally, there should be 7 cm between the leaf and the surface so that in snowy weather the gate does not stick snow when it moves.

Advice. Do-it-yourself sliding gate design must be durable, do not forget to constantly ram the concrete when pouring each portion of the mixture to avoid the formation of voids.

When the concreting is complete, you can start leveling to remove any unevenness. If it is very hot outside, the concrete should be protected from cracks by covering it. Water it a couple of times a day.

While the concrete is gaining its strength, you can rest for a week. This is a strong recommendation if your goal is a reliable and durable gate.

Brickwork pillars for sliding gates

Having coped with the foundations and after waiting until they become strong, you can start laying bricks, installing embedded elements for flashings. Use a 50x50 mm corner, which is approximately 8 cm long, and a reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm is equal to half the post. Weld it to the core.

The flashing requires three tabs of three parts: 1 at the bottom after laying 3 rows of bricks, then the middle one - in the middle, and 1 part at the top - knowing the top edge of the gate in the future, do the laying a little lower.

Do-it-yourself sliding gate frame

To make it more convenient for you to create a frame, use pipes with a section of a rectangle or square. To create a sliding gate with your own hands, drawings and diagrams will still have to be used. Drawing - a detailed diagram of your work, which was discussed at the beginning, will now be very important. If you have a sketch of a sliding gate, there will definitely be no problems. It also helps to save materials, using exactly as much as is required to make sliding gates with your own hands.

Remove rust from metal pipes, degrease and primer all other elements. In the standard version for sashes and load-bearing elements, a pipe 60X40 mm or 60X30 mm is used. The second inner frame is 30x20 mm.

The entire assembly begins with a guide rail, which means that at this stage it must be prepared in advance. When assembling the frame, ensure its stability in a vertical position, weld two parts of the pipes (square), they will act as supports.

In the supporting frame, weld the lower pipe to the rail using tacks. Use a seam length of 15-20 mm, a step of 600-700 mm, on both sides, the order is checkerboard.

Advice. Don't make a continuous seam. This is not only impractical and leads to excessive consumption of electrodes, but also threatens that the guide profile will lead, the gate will jam, the movement will become heavy.

After that, we can expose vertical pipes, grabbing them with one welding. Using a level, check the resulting vertical evenness, when you make sure that everything is in order, only then make a continuous welding.

Further inside, along the perimeter, it is worth welding the pipes of the second frame, not the main one, corrugated board will be welded to them later. The pipes must be in the center of the supporting frame so that the flooring, when it is already in the sash, drowns a little.

Welding work is over, you can clean the seams with a grinder, prime them and paint them.

Advice. Painting is best done in three layers.

To fix the corrugated board, use 19 mm special-purpose screws - for metal, to make it easier, you can attach it when the sash is already installed in the opening on the support. Each sheet must be adjusted separately, it must fit to the frame. Leave the part of the sash with the shape of a triangle without installing profiled sheets, because this part will not fall into the opening anyway.

Everything is on the sashes, but other equally important details remain.

There is very little left to complete the makeshift sliding gate.

From metal pipes 60X30 or 60X40 mm, flashings are created and mounted.

To create a sliding gate with your own hands, select fittings:

The guide rail is a good quality profile, the surface is smooth, no flaws, no roughness, no scale. The metal must be specific, the composition must contain more than usual carbon
Roller carriages - with metal rollers, polymers cannot be taken. Bearings with metal rubber anthers. Move without difficulty. Be sure to take care of corrosion protection.
The top plate with rollers, there should be 2 or 4 of them. It is better to take it with a rubber coating that will not scratch the canvas.
Bottom end roller - either polymer or metal is suitable.
Lower and upper catchers.
Rubber plugs, preferably with a corrugated part.
Roller mounting plates.

The device of sliding gates with your own hands will not be many difficulties. It remains to carry out the installation of the listed elements and start installing automation. The design of sliding gates seems complicated, but you can do it yourself, without third-party paid help, using our instructions and watching the video instructions below.

There is a lot of incomplete information on the Internet on the installation of sliding gates with your own hands, after reading it, the progress of work or the installation of sliding gates is not particularly clear.

In this manual, we will try to visually demonstrate the installation of cantilever sliding gates from and to, and help you calculate the height and width of the gate for you.

To proceed with the installation, you need drawings, there is no one drawing for all gates, it all depends on the width and height of the opening in the fence.

Sliding gate fittings

The first thing you can start assembling the gate with is the fittings, but only after calculating the weight and dimensions of the gate, the fittings can be purchased separately or made with your own hands from bearings, the fittings kit includes:

guide rail is usually 6 m long;
2 roller bearings
1 top roller bracket to avoid the swing of the gate;
1 end roller;
1 end roller catcher, so that the gate docks correctly during the wind and does not break the automation.

Additional accessories for fittings:

Mounting and adjusting support for roller bearings.
Mechanical lock.
Rack toothed.
Fastening element for toothed rack.

Now about the load. Kits are different, for different weights of the gate, see the table, it shows the dependence of the weight and width of the gate.

Opening width no more	Gate weight
4 m	300 kg.
4 m	400 kg.
4.5 m	500 kg.
6 m	600 kg.
10 m	1000 kg.
12 m	1200 kg.

These data will be useful to you when choosing accessories, but most craftsmen try to make all the details with their own hands, since the kit is not cheap.

To make the hardware yourself, you need to know where and why it is attached, read about it below.

How to choose quality fittings

The main part, the guide rail, the best choice would be the rail of the European manufacturer. A good quality item has a mirror-smooth surface and clear geometric shapes. The part must be galvanized, free of scale and rust on its surface. A quality guide has a metal thickness of 3.5 mm to 5 mm.

When choosing roller bearings, pay attention that they are made entirely of metal, plastic or rubberized ones will not last long. All geometric shapes of the metal must be correct, the slightest deviation indicates a poor-quality assembly.

As for the rest of the metal parts, they must be coated with zinc, the zinc shade must be uniform, the minimum thickness of the metal is 3-4 mm.

Sliding gate dimensions

The cost of fittings will depend on the size and weight of the sliding gate. The width is calculated in this way, another 50% of the width is added to the width of the opening in the fence. For example, you have an opening width of 4 meters, divide by 2, we get 2 meters + 4 meters opening width, the total length of the guide rail will be 6 meters.

To make it easier to understand and remember, I propose a formula and a diagram:

B - opening width;
A - counterweight length;
L is the length of the guide rail.

After you have decided on the size of the frame, you can begin to manufacture it, the frame is made of a profiled metal pipe 40x40x2 mm and 40x20x2 mm for the inner crate. For aluminum frames, a profile from 60 mm is used.

It is better to make the height of the gate frame equal to the length of the corrugated board. Decking is better to choose tougher. Before fixing the corrugated board to the frame, drill holes in the frame half the diameter of the roofing screw, since the self-tapping screw may not drill the profiled pipe of the frame, blind rivets can be used instead of self-tapping screws.

The width of the lower profiled tube must match the width of the guide rail.

If you have a gate width of more than 4 meters, then it is better to use rectangular pipes to assemble the base of the frame!

The photo below shows how to properly make a frame for different widths of the opening.

Gate foundation

It is quite easy to determine the size of the foundation, since it has a length equal to 1/2 of the width of the opening, according to the formula:

B - opening width;
L is the length of the foundation;

If everything is simple with the length of the foundation, then with the installation we have many options.

The foundation can be made of the following materials:

Monolithic U-shaped.
Monolithic solid.
From screw piles.

There are also small features in the installation of a monolithic foundation, you can use reinforcement welded to the channel, anchor bolts or long threaded studs.

Consider the option with a channel (power frame), it can be with one or two supporting pillars or without them, in both cases the power frame is attached flush to the existing fence posts. The height of the supporting posts corresponds to the height of the gate itself + the height of the roller bearings. The use of two supporting pillars near the power frame is advisable for wide gates that are strongly swayed by the wind. If support pillars are not provided, then metal mortgages are made into the stone fence instead.

In the photo, laying the foundation.

Scheme without metal racks.

Location of carrier rollers

In order to evenly set the power frame on the opposite side, where the support post with the end roller catcher is located, retreat 10 cm (post thickness) from the fence and pull the cord to the last corner of the channel, along its entire length, the edge of the channel should repeat the line of the cord.

Gate installation and adjustment

After the load frame is ready for use, level the roller bearings, install the upper roller bracket, the installation depends on the design of the bracket.

To determine in advance where to mount the lower trap, a guide rail without a gate is put on the roller bearings. The lower trap is designed not only to hold the gate horizontally, but also to remove the load from the roller bearings; for this, the end roller must roll into the trap so that the gate rises 3-5 mm.

If, after installing the frame, the end roller sags a lot, adjust the roller bearings.

If everything is done correctly, but you have not achieved the correct operation of the sliding gate, then most likely you do not have a high-quality set of fittings, it is designed for a different weight, or the frame is assembled incorrectly, because of this, the gate sags heavily and cannot fall into the lower trap.

After all the above mechanisms are adjusted, you can proceed with the installation of automation. The video below shows how you can make an electric drive with your own hands.

Let's start with the gear rack, they are metal and nylon, metal is naturally better and more reliable. Their thickness varies from 8 to 30 mm. The standard rail size is 1 meter. For fastening, use the number of rails equal to the width of the opening + 1 rail for automatic limit switches. The gap between the teeth of the drive gear and the rack should be 1-2 mm. The rack is attached to the bottom tube of the door frame using a fastener for the toothed rack. Holes in the rail allow it to be adjusted in height.

There are two options for fastening the toothed rack in the picture, we do not recommend attaching the rack to the guide rail, during welding, the guide may bend, if bolts are screwed into the guide, this can also cause difficulties during installation and during operation of the gate.

Fasteners are often welded, although there is a special C-profile for the rack for their fastening. Pictured below are both options.

If you buy an electric drive, then 4 meters of gear rack are included in the kit.

For those who do not want to spend money on a gear rack, it can be replaced with a bicycle chain or, as shown in one of the videos, a Zhiguli chain.

Gate automation

Both retractable and swing can open automatically. Their operation is controlled by a remote control and switches installed in the house, and possibly at the gate. One remote control can start not only the gate, but also the garage door, and even lighting. Automatic drives consist of an electric motor, a moving rack and a control device. They can be purchased as a separate device, although it is better to order them immediately with the gate. Then you will be sure that the drive was correctly selected and there will be no surprises during assembly.

Sliding gates require one motor to move the toothed rack attached to the bottom edge of the leaf. And for sliding gates, two cylinders are required, one is attached to each of the wings. The drive has a mechanism that allows you to open the gate in the event of a power failure. Modern drives can be powered by a battery charged from the mains or solar panels. The gates open automatically and require the installation of devices that ensure the safety of their use. Photocells are needed, thanks to which the leaves do not move when an obstacle appears in their path. A signal lamp installed in a conspicuous place will inform you that the gate is opening or closing.

Drive selection

When choosing a drive, it is important that the gears of the gearbox are made of steel or brass, but not plastic or silumin. The second important element is the limit switch, it controls the points to which the gate can be opened and closed, the limit switch can be mechanical and reed switch (magnetic), as practice has shown, the mechanical one can freeze in winter. As a rule, the quality of drive parts depends on its power, the higher the power of the drive, the better its assembly. As for the carrying capacity, it is indicated in the documentation.

Basic equipment of the drive:

4 meters of gear rack;
photocells;
signal lamp;
remote control and receiver;
mounting plate.

For those who do not know what photocells are for, they are 2 sensors that are mounted along the edges of the gate. When an obstacle appears between the photocells, the gate opens or closes, depending on how you program the automation.

Installation of automation

The first step is to weld or screw on the mounting plate for mounting the drive, it is supplied with the drive, it can be used to adjust the height and angle of the drive.

After mounting the drive, magnetic sensors, photocells and a signal lamp are mounted. As a rule, drives are connected to the network 220 and after software configuration they are immediately ready for operation.

Sliding gates will add presentability and status to the house. This pleasure is not cheap, but it has a pleasant feature - the design is made independently. It remains only to choose a model and evaluate your own strengths.

Advantages and disadvantages of sliding gates

Why choose retractable models? In addition to appearance and reliability, gates have a number of advantages that speak in their favor, unlike other fences. Namely:

Quiet operation. The creak will not disturb the household or neighbors.
They do not take up much space both in the open and closed state.
Clearing ice, snow, or clogged debris is generally not required.
Minimal maintenance requires only regular checks of the undercarriage.
Durability and reliability. They are associated with the use of metal, as opposed to wooden fences or other fencing materials.
Gates for convenience are equipped with automatic mechanisms that provide owners with comfort.

Of course, no design is without flaws. There are not many of them: you will have to make enough entry space if you have a large vehicle, therefore, you will have to spend money. And the second - the gate must be installed on a monolithic platform.

Types of sliding gates

In order to assess your own capabilities in terms of independent work, it is important to consider all gate options. Some of them are simple in design, others require meticulous drawing and hard work.

Console

The gate is a structure with a sliding leaf mounted on the lower rail. Experts recommend this option for manufacturing, since it has a lot of advantages in comparison with others: the height of the transport does not matter - there is no upper limiter, the minimum space along the fence, burglar resistance and windage are great. There are no barriers for self-construction - the model is simple.

Suspended

Gates are most often installed in hangars or warehouses with an upper limit or roof. Moving parts are located on the upper guides, which significantly reduces the possibility of large-sized transport. This feature should be taken into account by the owners of a personal plot, where construction work and the presence of special equipment occur quite often.

wheeled

Sliding gates are set in motion thanks to a rail laid on the ground or concrete. The canvas is equipped with wheels at the bottom. The disadvantage of the model is the high probability of clogging the path along which the gate will move. Despite the fact that the proximity to the ground is close, the rail becomes contaminated with fallen leaves, during floods or thawing, ice jams are not ruled out. This will cause problems - the inability to open and corrosion of metal parts.

After analyzing your own situation - the need for transport, the seasonality of visiting a country house, the frequency of operation - we can draw a conclusion for the acceptability of one or another option. In addition, they evaluate financial capabilities - all gates are heavy and, accordingly, require high-quality components.

Main elements and accessories of sliding gates

In addition to the metal door leaf, you need to purchase the following accessories for them:

Guide rail. This is an iron beam with a section of 71 * 65 mm, a length of 6 meters or more. Wall thickness - 3.5 mm or more.
Carriages with rollers. They are needed for the free movement of the blade along the guide rail.
End rollers and traps for them, limiting the movement of the web. They will not let him fall out of the guides.
Limiters and caps. They will not allow the mechanism to become clogged with dirt, snow and ice.

All equipment is purchased according to the future weight of the gate. They are guided by the following - for an option not exceeding a length of 4 m, fittings are required that can withstand a load of up to 500 kg. Up to 5 m - 600 kg, etc.

Today, ready-made sets of sliding gates are offered for sale, which only need to be installed. Accessories can be bought separately if the cost of the finished version of the owners does not suit.

Drawings, diagrams, sketches and design of sliding gates

Any design requires careful calculations. Sliding gates are responsible for many issues - free movement, the admission of vehicles to the territory - therefore, any model is carefully planned on paper before construction.

Gate opening width

The parameter is calculated based on the dimensions of the transport - not only cars, but also trucks are taken into account. So, Gazelle is 2.5 m, and KAMAZ - 2.9 m. But at the same time, the angle of arrival should be taken into account - 45 degrees. Therefore, there must be a distance of at least 30 cm between the pillars holding the structure and the mirrors of the car. If we take into account the characteristics of the soil during the off-season - the car may deviate, stall or slide, then this parameter is increased to 50 cm. The final width will be 5 m.

Blade length

This is not at all like the length of the gate opening. This parameter is increased by at least 40% of the entire width. This is necessary in order to hide the gap between the fence canvas and the gate.

Gate height

It matters, despite the fact that it does not play a practical role. We argue from the point of view of aesthetics - the gate leaf should be calculated in such a way that it lies in the same plane with the fence, otherwise the height difference is inevitable and ugly.

For example, the body of a profiled sheet fence is 2 m. The height of the gate is calculated minus the parameters of all components - a guide rail, carriages with wheels, a holding frame and other fittings. Important - the gap between the ground and the edge of the gate is taken into account. It should be at least 10-15 cm.

Drawing

Schematically, the design of the gate is very simple. The basis is a power platform made of reinforced concrete. Further, between the pillars, a frame with traps of the welded gate frame is arranged. Well, a profiled sheet is attached to the latter. A handle is fixed on the canvas or the gate is supplied with an electric drive for actuation from home.

Do-it-yourself installation of sliding gates

Naturally, one cannot cope with the construction of a cantilever or other type of gate alone - at least a couple of assistants will be required. In addition to accessories for the model, tools and materials are purchased for concreting the section between the supporting pillars - this will be included in the cost of the gate, so an estimate for assessing one's own capabilities is made in advance.

Installation of support poles

You can reduce the cost and reduce your own efforts if you make separate concreting for the cantilever frame and the pole for the design of the traps. However, this has a pitfall associated with the characteristics of the soil - the two structures can change in different ways in the event of heaving, freezing or soil movements. These whims will certainly affect the design of the gate - the sash will no longer fall into the traps, the structure may skew. Operation will cease to be comfortable - sliding gates will have to be constantly adjusted.

There is a way out: power fillings are formed on one concrete base. Then even impressive changes will allow you to equally change the height level of the entire gate structure.

A ditch is dug equal to the width of the supporting pillars and the depth of the freezing of the area. They also take into account the shifts and vagaries of the soil - in the case of floating or sandy options, the foundation parameters are increased by 15–20% for each.

Cushioning layers of sand and gravel are poured onto the bottom. The height of each is at least 10-15 cm. They will not let moisture into the concrete, thereby prolonging its durability. In addition, the heavy construction of the gate will not affect the quality of the platform in any way.

The ditch is reinforced with a steel bar - it is simply stuck into the ground and tied together with wire. Do not weld, as high temperatures destroy the metal. It is not required to purchase a large cross-section rod - up to 6 mm is enough. It is better to use a special wire, processed by firing - its strength has long been known.

A steel mortgage is laid immediately on the rod. This is a channel installed shelves down. Subsequently, a movable carriage is attached to it. The position of the channel is checked exactly according to the level in order to prevent the gate from being skewed in the future.

Formwork is being set up. If it is decided to install the supporting pillars ready-made, then they are immediately placed in the right places. Otherwise, the formwork is designed in such a way as to also fill in the base under the console. To do this, use wooden boards, knocked down into shields and supports, so that when pouring, the mass does not break the structure.

Filling is carried out slowly, observing the exit of air from the thickness and preventing overflow onto the channel. The appearance of white "milk" on the surface indicates a dense filling of the ditch. For several days, it is recommended to spill the platform with cold water in order to avoid cracks on the surface.

After 2-3 weeks, on a frozen base, work can be continued.

gate welding

The design is a frame with reinforcements. For the manufacture of the supporting frame, as a rule, a rectangular profile is used - the section and wall thickness are described above. The inner "crate" is made of smaller pipes - 30–40 mm. First, according to the drawing, pipes of the required length are cut and laid on a flat surface for compilation - at this stage, discrepancies can still be corrected.

Then, welding of the main frame is started and after that, a reinforcing profile is welded inside the frame. It looks like a diagonal between parallel lines.

Welding is carried out with tack seams in increments of 30 cm. A rail is welded to the bottom of the frame. The finished structure is not sheathed immediately - the gate needs to be checked for normal operation. Welded seams are cleaned, beat off excess. Lay the first coat of primer.

Installation of accessories and frame

Carriages and traps are attached to the support pillars, constantly correlating with the level. Anchor bolts are used for fixing - only they are able to withstand the load of heavy gates. After checking the mobility of the chassis, you can install the gate.

They are put on a carriage profile and scalded around with tacks - this is how the gate gets stability. After the craftsmen are convinced of the coincidence of the levels of the two parts of the gate, the running parts are completely scalded.

Painting and upholstery

The finished structure is painted in a color that matches the profiled sheet. The coloring composition must necessarily have an anti-corrosion property. Minium is applied in several layers, paying attention to seams and joints.

After drying, proceed to the sheathing of the finished gate. If it is planned to make them double - profiled sheet on both sides - a uniform distribution of reinforcing profile pipes inside the frame is calculated in advance, otherwise frequent operation will lead to deformation of the gate.

Important - it is impossible to fasten the profiled sheet with self-tapping screws with heads for a screwdriver. For a heavy structure, they are weak. Fasteners with special wrench heads and rubber gaskets are used to protect the fixation site from moisture. The fastening step is individual - depending on the length and height of the canvas. Self-tapping screws are already painted, so they do not need decor.

Sliding gate accessories

Finished gates are equipped with handles, locking elements, deadbolt or electric drive. The power unit of the latter is located next to the carriage channel - if an automatic device is provided in advance, then two channels are immediately installed - one for the gate structure, the other for the electric drive.

You can install the machine with your own hands, if you have certain knowledge. Otherwise, experts are invited. Also, the gates are equipped with photocells, anti-vandal devices and other attributes that increase the comfort of use.