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How ventilation is constructed in the kitchen: rules and diagrams of the hood. Effective ventilation for the kitchen in an apartment and a private house How to properly make a hood in your home

Natural ventilation channels

For effective ventilation, Each room of the house must have two ventilation devices: one is for air supply, the other is for removing air from the room.

Every room in a house or apartment equipped with a supply and exhaust natural ventilation device according to one of three options:

Supply valve in a window or outside wall for air flow. Transfer hole into an adjacent room with an exhaust duct for air removal (hole in the door or internal wall, partition).
For air flow - overflow hole from an adjacent room with a supply valve, and exhaust duct
Inlet valve for inflow, And exhaust duct ventilation to remove air.

Check whether in the house or apartment where you currently live, whether all rooms have supply and exhaust ventilation devices?!

In which rooms should exhaust ventilation ducts be installed?

Exhaust ducts for natural ventilation must be provided from the following areas of the house:

Sanitary facilities - bathroom, toilet, laundry room.
Kitchens.
Dressing room, storage room - if the doors of the premises open into the living room. If the doors open onto a corridor (hall, kitchen), then you can do one of two things: arrange an exhaust duct from the premises or install a supply valve in a wall or window.
The boiler room must have both a ventilation duct and a supply valve.
From rooms separated from rooms with a ventilation duct by more than two doors.
On the floor above the first, if there are entrance doors from the stairs to the floor, ventilation ducts are made from the rooms indicated above, and/or from the corridor, hall.
On the floor above the first, in the absence of entrance doors from the stairs to the floor, a ventilation duct and a supply valve are installed in each room of the floor.

In other areas of the house that do not have natural ventilation exhaust ducts, be sure to install a supply valve in a window or wall and a flow hole into the adjacent room.

In addition, natural ventilation exhaust ducts are used for ventilation:

Sewer pipe riser.

Building rules (clause 6.5.8 SP 60.13330.2016) require that in residential buildings, for premises housing gas equipment (gas boilers, hot water heaters, kitchen stoves, etc.), provide mechanical forced exhaust ventilation and natural or mechanical forced ventilation.

Location and dimensions of ventilation ducts

The minimum side size of the natural ventilation channel is 10 cm., and the minimum cross-sectional area is 0.016 m 2., which approximately corresponds to the diameter of a standard ventilation duct pipe - 150 mm.

A channel of minimal size will provide air exhaust in a volume of 30 m 3 /hour with a vertical pipe length of more than 3 m. To increase the performance of the hood, the cross-sectional area of the channel or the length of the channel is increased. Channels less than 2 long m. do not provide the necessary intensity of natural ventilation.

In practice, the length of the ventilation duct on a floor is usually determined by design considerations - the number and height of the upper floors located above, the height of the attic, the length of the pipe above the roof. On the floor, the length of all channels must be the same. This is done so that the traction force in each channel on the floor is approximately the same.

The cross-sectional dimensions of the channels on the floor are often made the same, but for design reasons - it’s more convenient. The performance of the ventilation channel in a particular room on the floor is adjusted by choosing the size of the ventilation grille.

Ventilation ducts from the premises of the house on different floors are placed side by side, combining them into a block of ventilation ducts.

For design reasons, they try to lay several ventilation ducts from rooms on the same floor side by side, in one place - to create a block of ventilation ducts.

A block of ventilation ducts in stone houses is usually placed inside the load-bearing internal wall of the house or attached to the wall.

The block is laid out from masonry materials, for example, brick. In brickwork, it is convenient to make channels with a cross-section that is a multiple of the size of the brick, taking into account the thickness of the joints - 140x140 mm. (1/2 x 1/2 brick, 196 cm 2) or 140x270 mm. (1/2 x 1 brick, 378 cm 2)

Expanded clay concrete ventilation block, two-channel 390x190x188 mm. Flow area of one channel 168 cm 2
Concrete blocks for laying ventilation ducts in a private house. Block height 33 cm., width 25 cm., wall thickness 4 cm. The flow area of one channel is 12x17 cm. (204 cm 2)

They produce hollow concrete blocks specially designed for laying ventilation ducts.

A block of ventilation ducts made of masonry materials must be supported on a foundation or on a reinforced concrete floor.

In other cases, for example, in wooden or frame houses, a block of ventilation ducts is assembled from plastic or galvanized steel pipes. The block of pipes is covered with a box.

How to combine several channels into one channel

In a private house, the number of channels is small, so there is no need to combine air flows from several channels (rooms or floors) into one, as is often done in apartment buildings. Each natural ventilation channel in a private house must begin in the room and end at the head on the roof. Any combination of two or more channels impairs the performance of ventilation.

In some cases, there is still a need to combine several channels, to combine them into one common natural ventilation channel.

Read:

Ventilation channel performance

Performance of a single exhaust ventilation channel with a cross section of 12x17 cm.(204 cm 2) from concrete blocks depending on the channel height and room temperature:

Capacity of natural ventilation channels with a cross section of 12 x 17 cm.(204 cm 2) depending on the channel height and room temperature (at an outside air temperature of 12 o C)

To determine performance for intermediate channel heights, plot the channel height versus performance graph.

Similar tables can be found for ventilation ducts that are made of other materials.

However, for ventilation ducts of the same cross-section (204 cm 2), but made from other materials, the performance will differ slightly from that indicated in the table.

For a channel of a different cross-section, the performance value from the table can be proportionally increased or decreased.

To increase the performance of a ventilation channel of the same height, it is necessary proportionally increase the cross-sectional area of the channel. To do this, for example, choose a concrete block with a larger hole, or use two or three channels of the above size to ventilate one room.

Calculation of natural ventilation of a private house

The building regulations specify the minimum required capacity of natural ventilation ducts. Typically, people feel better when more fresh air is supplied to the room than specified in the standards. The performance of the natural ventilation channel very much depends on atmospheric and other variable factors (air temperature inside and outside, wind pressure and direction, resistance to air flow into the room). All this suggests that for a private house there is no point in carefully performing calculations accurately. I recommend rounding the calculation results towards greater productivity of natural ventilation channels. During operation, if necessary, the channel capacity can be easily reduced.

Calculation of natural ventilation is carried out in order to determine the size of ventilation channels based on the volume of air removed.

When determining the volume of air removed through natural ventilation ducts, it is taken into account that air enters rooms with supply valves from the street, then this air flows into rooms with exhaust ducts, and is removed through the ducts again to the street.

The calculation is being carried out for each floor at home in the following order:

Guided by the standards (see), determine the amount of the minimum volume of air that should come from the street for ventilation all rooms with supply valves - Q p, m 3 /hour.
According to the standards, the amount of the minimum volume of air that must be go outside for ventilation all rooms equipped with an exhaust ventilation duct - Q in, m 3 /hour.
Compare the calculated minimum values of air flow from the street (Q p, m 3 /hour) and going outside (Q in, m 3 /hour). Usually one of the quantities turns out to be greater than the other. The larger of the two quantities is taken as the minimum design capacity of all exhaust ventilation channels on the floor— Q r, m 3 /hour.
Based on the vertical dimensions of the house, the height of the natural ventilation channel on the floor is determined.
Knowing the height of the ventilation channel, and the overall estimated minimum performance of all channels on the floor (Q p, m 3 /hour), According to the table (see above), the total number of standard channels made of concrete blocks is selected. The total performance of the selected number of standard channels must be no less than the value of Q p, m 3 / hour.
The selected number of standard ducts are distributed between the rooms of the house, which must be equipped with exhaust ventilation ducts. When distributing, take into account the need to ensure standard air exchange in each individual room with a ventilation duct.

An example of calculating the natural ventilation of a private house

For example, let’s calculate natural ventilation in a one-story house with a total floor area of 120 m 2. The house has five living rooms with a total area of 90 m 2, kitchen, bathroom and toilet, as well as a dressing room (storage room) with an area of 4.5 m 2. Room height - 3 m. The house is designed with natural ventilation of the underground space through a ventilation duct. Height of ventilated space under the floor 0.3 m. We use concrete blocks to install ventilation channels - see above.

Fan at the entrance to the natural ventilation channel

Continuation: for the next one

A properly installed ventilation system is the key to comfortable living in a home. Fresh air, optimal humidity and the absence of unpleasant odors are its main tasks. Today we will talk about how to install the system yourself. , a diagram that is optimally suited for each room, and recommendations from professionals - all this is in our material.

Read in the article:

Why are ventilation systems needed in a private home?

For those who still doubt whether installing ventilation in a private house is necessary, we will give a simple example. Breathable air contains about 60 percent oxygen. The remaining 40 are gases that either have no effect on the body or cause harm to it. Our body consumes oxygen from the air and returns carbon dioxide to the atmosphere.

In addition, in a room with insufficient air circulation, harmful bacteria and viruses actively multiply.

Many parents, who wrap up their children too zealously and close all the windows and vents, cannot understand why their child, nevertheless, is constantly sick. The answer is simple - in the stuffy atmosphere of a sealed room, pathogenic organisms feel excellent and successfully attack their prey. They take as their allies the smallest particles of dust, which freely enter the tissues of the lungs and nasopharynx and settle there, causing a cough and a constant runny nose.

Sometimes diseases take a chronic form. But a ventilation device in a private home will help solve all these problems, and the entire structure will cost much less than a full set of medications for treating family members.

In addition to harm to humans, the tightness of premises also causes damage to the structure itself. The lack of normal air exchange leads to the growth of mold and mildew, the destruction of all natural finishing materials and walls. Excessive moisture affects the plaster, which cracks and peels off from the base. Ventilation projects for private houses provide for the specific purpose of each room and create the necessary microclimate in the bathroom, kitchen, boiler room and living rooms.

Types of ventilation systems

According to the basic principle of operation, ventilation systems can be divided into three types:

View	Description
Active	This system works using electrical appliances - fans. The flow of air flows is carried out naturally through channels protected from dust, insects and rodents. The waste streams are removed by exhaust fans. All ventilation ducts are combined into one common pipe. This design is not difficult to install, but does require energy costs.
Passive	This version of the ventilation system does not need to be connected to the mains and works due to the natural movement of air flow. Such a system will require the installation of several ventilation ducts in each room of the building.
Supply and exhaust	A system that combines the advantages of natural and active ventilation. The incoming air duct is equipped with a filter and a fan that draws in air from the street, and the outgoing air duct is equipped with an exhaust device. This is an economical system; it is enough to install one such device in a room.

Let's take a closer look at the design principles of each of these systems.

Natural ventilation device in a private house

Installing natural ventilation in a private house with your own hands should be considered at the stage of designing the house. During the construction of walls, ventilation shafts are laid or pipes are fixed if the house is not made of brick. The system works effectively due to the difference in air pressure and temperature inside and outside the building. Advantages and disadvantages of the system:

For natural air exchange, the diameter of the air duct must be at least 13 centimeters. The installation holes are located under the ceiling.

An approximate diagram of natural ventilation in a private house:

The optimal option is one in which a common air duct is located inside the central wall, to which ventilation ducts from all rooms are connected.

Ask a specialist

“The fewer horizontal bends in the system, the more efficient it works.”

Another important point is that the exhaust pipe must be sufficiently insulated. If it is made of brick, then the recommended thickness of the masonry is two and a half bricks. Metal and plastic hoods are insulated with mineral wool. This is necessary so that on frosty days the air duct does not cool down and continues to operate effectively.

The height of the ventilation duct is selected relative to the height of the ridge. To determine the dimensions of the pipe, you need to draw a horizontal line from the ridge, and then another straight line with a rise of 10 degrees. The top point will be the desired value.

Important! The natural ventilation channel for a fireplace or gas boiler must be larger than usual, at least 13 by 26 centimeters. Its masonry is made as airtight as possible.

Features of forced ventilation in a private house

Equipment for forced air exchange is in most cases located in the attic. But there are cases when forced ventilation is installed in the basement of a private house. Usually one powerful device is installed, which will provide exhaust throughout the entire system or be placed in each duct. In this case, the influx of fresh atmosphere is carried out through windows and vents.

Advice! If doorways in rooms are equipped with baseboards, they should have grilles for unimpeded air penetration.

The system requires installation of additional equipment:

protective grilles and nets against insects and rodents;
filters that retain dust, pollen and other allergens;
cold air flow control valves;
exhaust fans;
material that absorbs vibration and sounds;
air heaters (work in winter);
air ducts;
automation units for system control.

To obtain the desired effect, you should choose a forced air exchange system that is most suitable for your home. Here are some possible options:

System	Description
Combined system	Combines natural and forced air supply. Does not require special maintenance and is easy to install.
Forced supply with cooling effect	Installed complete with air conditioner. It is quite expensive and requires regular maintenance.
Forced with heated air flow	The system components include recuperators. They use the heat of outgoing flows to warm up incoming air masses. Recuperators are not cheap devices, but they can be assembled with your own hands.
Recirculation system	Requires the installation of complex devices that mix outgoing exhaust air flows with the street atmosphere and return them to the house. Installation of such a device should only be carried out by qualified personnel.

Expert opinion

HVAC design engineer (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) ASP North-West LLC

Ask a specialist

“A large general ventilation unit should be located as far as possible from living rooms. Even very good insulation will not make it silent.”

The main requirement for arranging forced ventilation: air masses must move from residential premises (rooms) to non-residential premises (kitchen, bathroom).

Types of systems and their schemes

It is not easy to draw up a diagram of a ventilation system in a private house. This task requires special knowledge and understanding of the correct placement of air ducts, heat exchangers and fans. The efficiency of air exchange depends on the correct layout.

Ask a specialist

“If you do not have experience in designing such systems, entrust this task to professionals. You can carry out the installation on your own, but only a specialist can plan everything correctly.”

Basic rules to follow:

in the chain of ventilation ducts, non-residential premises should be the last;
the exhaust pipe must be higher than the roof ridge;
the dimensions of the air ducts are calculated using special formulas;
Air ducts must be carefully warmed and soundproofed, otherwise the wind will howl in the house.

Supply ventilation in a private house: operating principle and diagram

The supply air exchange system includes several components: an air duct, fittings and the supply chamber itself. The dimensions of the device are relatively small, and such ventilation will not spoil the external and internal appearance of the house.

Important aspect! Incoming air flows must have a temperature of at least 18 degrees. Such an air flow will not disturb the comfortable atmosphere in the room and will not cause colds or drafts. In the case of forced air supply, elements must be built into the system to heat it to the required temperature. Previously, such devices were installed, but in modern construction they have been replaced by recuperators. The principle of their operation is the heat exchange between incoming and outgoing flows through a system of filters and plates.

In a private house, the forced ventilation system has its own characteristics. Usually in a country house there are many household premises with special functions. Unlike a city apartment, it contains a boiler room, a basement, a residential attic, a swimming pool or bathhouse and other objects necessary for the owners. These rooms have different humidity and temperatures, and combining them with one air exchange system is not easy.

It is for this reason that special requirements are put forward in the house:

It must be powerful enough to serve the entire house.
An extensive system must provide for the characteristics of different rooms.
The home owner must have the ability to remotely or manually control air exchange.
The design must take into account seasonal temperature changes and heat the house in winter and cool in summer.

Related article:

In the article we will consider in detail the types of structures, the principle of operation, how to choose a place for installation, how to properly install the device with your own hands, useful tips and recommendations from specialists.

Principles of exhaust ventilation in a private home and video instructions for installing the hood

Hoods are used to remove exhaust air. It is especially important to install them in rooms where odors actively spread and an unhealthy atmosphere reigns - in the kitchen, in the boiler room, in the bathroom. To forcefully eliminate air masses, you will need a fairly powerful fan and an exhaust hood directed towards the street.

One hood can be installed on a maximum of two heating devices, but representatives of regulatory authorities have the right to require you to install separate chimneys for each device. It is better to do just that, because we are talking about your safety.

Important! If exhaust ventilation through the walls to the street is installed in the boiler room, it must have a sealed air duct so that combustion products do not penetrate into other ducts and rooms. All seams and joints are additionally treated with sealant. In places where the chimney comes into contact with the roofing material, fire-resistant gaskets are installed to prevent fire.

For forced ventilation of the chimney, a fan with a check valve and a fire-resistant asbestos-cement pipe are used. It is acceptable to use metal pipes.

Important! Under no circumstances should plastic pipes be used for exhaust hood in a boiler room or kitchen; they are not heat-resistant and burn easily, releasing toxic fumes.

Nuances of supply and exhaust ventilation in a private house

It is believed that this principle of organizing air exchange is the most productive. Removal of used air masses and injection of new ones occurs simultaneously.

There are two schemes for supply and exhaust ventilation. In the first case, two air ducts are simply installed in the room under the ceiling. Air comes in through one hole and out through the other. Both processes occur with the help of fans. In the second case, the supply flow is located at the bottom of the wall. The fan blows in fresh air, and the exhaust air is removed through the air duct by the ceiling naturally. This system works especially effectively in houses with unusually high ceilings.

We focus on each room - what is needed for ventilation?

As already mentioned, in a private house there are many rooms with different purposes. Their features should be taken into account when planning the ventilation system. Let's take a closer look at each case.

Ventilation in a private house in the kitchen: the main thing is the hood

The kitchen is a hot shop, in which there is always a lot of steam, heat, smoke and odors. If you are preparing a festive dinner for guests or the oven is running at full power, you literally can’t breathe.

Advice! You shouldn’t limit yourself to just a kitchen hood in a private home. It must be combined with a general ventilation system. This will prevent food odors from entering other rooms.

Setting up ventilation in the kitchen is not difficult. Here are some recommendations from practitioners:

It is better to choose a hood body made of aluminum.
The filters in the device above the stove must be cleaned at least two to three times a year.
It is best to choose a device with adjustable fan speed. This will allow you to use different methods of air purification depending on its pollution.
You should periodically check the efficiency of the ventilation duct using a burning match or piece of paper. If the flame draws in or paper sticks to the grill, the ventilation is working properly.
For large kitchens with an area of more than 15 square meters, several exhaust ducts are provided.

Video instructions on how to properly install a hood over the stove:

Installation of ventilation in the toilet and bathroom

The atmosphere of the bathroom and toilet is saturated with bacteria and microbes, which, accumulating in a small space, attack not only the human body, but also finishing materials. After taking a bath, the walls remain damp for a long time, and in the absence of a high-quality exhaust hood, the smell in the toilet is unbearable.

To install bathroom ventilation you will need:

ventilation shaft that goes to the roof. The ventilation duct must be straight and even; only this shape will allow air flow to move unhindered. Its optimal dimensions are from one to two meters;
external grille with inclined louvres, which protects the channel from atmospheric moisture;
internal grille with adjustable flap.

For your information! In the bathroom you can install a natural and forced ventilation system. Forced, of course, is more effective.

Important points in installing ventilation in the toilet of a private house:

For installation, low-noise devices with a maximum value of 30 decibels are used.
The ventilation duct is placed opposite the front door. This ensures maximum draft and proper distribution of fresh air.
All duct equipment is placed at a safe distance from heating devices. Ventilation materials cannot withstand temperatures above fifty degrees, unless it is a specialized device for baths and saunas.
The power of the ventilation device is selected depending on the intensity of use and the size of the room.
In the bathroom, it is justified to install motion and air humidity sensors and timers on the fans.

Advice! Before designing an air exchange system in a bathroom, read the requirements of SNiP 01/41/2003. This document describes all the requirements for ventilation in a bathroom in a private house.

Ventilation in the basement of a private house: important points

All owners of country houses are interested in the question: how to make ventilation in the basement of a private house? A workshop, laundry room, and boiler room can be located in the basement of a country house. In the basement, many housewives store homemade canned goods and vegetables for the winter.

Dampness provokes the development of mold and destruction of the walls of the basement and basement. In order to create a normal atmosphere in the basement, it is necessary to provide vents or vents even at the stage of pouring the foundation of the house. They are located on opposite sides of the base. If there are partitions inside the basement space, there should be vents in them too. The vents are located under the ceiling of the basement, at a distance of 20-30 centimeters from the ground level and must be equipped with rodent bars, otherwise your winter supplies will not be preserved until serving.

For your information! Another real threat to the basement is an explosion of heating equipment if the boiler room is located in this room. Only high-quality ventilation will prevent the accumulation of dangerous gases in the event of an emergency and prevent the fire from spreading throughout the entire house.

The area of the vents can be easily calculated by dividing the area of the basement by 400. The recommended diameter of one hole is 12 centimeters. And it is worth remembering that the effectiveness of their work will directly depend on the prevailing winds on the site, so they should be positioned accordingly. Among other things, when planning vents, one should take into account the characteristics of groundwater, seasonal temperature changes and the amount of precipitation.

Important! To prevent water from pouring into the vents during a rainstorm, install canopies on them and make an inclined blind area that removes moisture from the foundation.

Important information about boiler room ventilation

The main tasks of ventilation for a gas boiler in a private house:

regulation of carbon monoxide levels. Even if its percentage exceeds 0.2%, this threatens with serious consequences for the human body, including respiratory arrest;
preventing the occurrence of reverse draft, in which combustion products enter the room;
providing the room with the oxygen necessary for breathing. In addition, oxygen is also important for the operation of the boiler, because it is in its presence that combustion processes are possible.

An object with a high level of fire risk must be equipped only with a forced air exchange system. Natural ventilation is not suitable here due to its low efficiency.

In order for the heating device to operate normally, the atmosphere in the room needs to be changed three times per hour. Each chimney is equipped with two openings. The upper one is intended for removing gases, the lower one is for periodic cleaning of soot and soot.

Ask a specialist

“Before installing the ventilation duct, study the boiler data sheet. It specifies all the requirements for chimney installation. Calculate the boiler room ventilation taking into account all the recommendations.”

All chimney elements are made of fire-resistant materials. To increase the efficiency of the device, a coaxial chimney with two air ducts is installed on floor-standing boilers.

Proper organization of air ducts in the attic

Unobstructed air exchange will prevent the formation of condensation under the roof. This will extend its service life and save you from the need for constant repairs. In winter, the roof will not be covered with ice, and in summer, good ventilation will prevent it from overheating from the sun's rays.

To properly organize attic ventilation in a private home, use perforated soffits. They look neat and decorative, and in addition, they do not allow insects to pass through. In addition to these elements, roof aerators and ventilated ridges are used.

Advice! If soft roofing material is used for the covering, small gaps are made in the counter-lattice to allow air to penetrate.

In the most difficult areas of the roof with a complex geometric shape, point aeration devices are used.

Some tips from roofing professionals:

attic ventilation should be protected from dust; it quickly absorbs moisture and adversely affects the insulation of the roof;
all attic vents must be equipped with protection against birds, insects and fallen leaves;
ventilation ducts must have the same size along their entire length. Any restriction will negatively affect the efficiency of the system;
When the roof length is over 10 meters, it is recommended to use forced ventilation of the space under the roof.

How to make ventilation ducts for sewers and cesspools

Many people believe that the main task of cesspool ventilation in a private house is simply to eliminate unpleasant odors. This is only partly true. Proper air exchange promotes rapid decomposition of waste and reduces pressure in the local sewerage pipeline. Excess methane, a product of organic matter decomposition, can lead to fire.

To remove exhaust gases, high risers are installed in the right place. They are installed not only in the country toilet, but also in an autonomous waste processing system - in septic tanks and closed tanks.

Important! The height of the sewer ventilation riser should exceed the height of the roof by at least 70 centimeters, and the riser itself should not be located near windows.

If it is not possible to install a riser above the roof, use ventilation valves that open as the atmosphere becomes thinner. The ventilation duct for the sewer can be made of plastic; ordinary sewer pipes are suitable for this.

Air exchange in the basement and foundation

We have already talked about how to improve air exchange in the basement. But what about foundation ventilation in a private house without a basement? In fact, in this case it is necessary to ensure normal air exchange. It will protect floor joists from rot and prevent the accumulation of harmful gases and dampness under the floor.

To ventilate the basement floor of a private house, the same vents with protective grilles are used. They are laid at the time of pouring the foundation on opposite sides. For this purpose, asbestos-cement or plastic pipes are used. At the time of pouring, they are filled with sand so that they do not deform and the solution does not get inside.

How to ventilate a pool

A swimming pool is a special room in which there will be high humidity and temperature. These conditions dictate special requirements for ventilation of a swimming pool in a private home. Only properly organized air exchange will prevent the growth of fungus, which will like the climate of this room. If its growth is not stopped, the spores will cause severe allergic reactions among home owners, and all finishing materials will be destroyed literally before our eyes.

For your information! Favorable air temperature in the pool is 28-32 degrees Celsius. Permissible humidity is 64 percent.

There should be no draft in the room with the pool; this is important for a comfortable stay in it. A swimming pool is one of the most difficult areas to design. For this reason, it is better to entrust the development of a ventilation scheme to specialists.

How to make ventilation in a private house: calculations and step-by-step installation

To calculate ventilation in private houses, you will need some basic values. These are the parameters of each room, its purpose and performance standards for natural and forced air exchange.

Ventilation ducts for passive air exchange are located vertically and go from each room to the roof. In a living space, the atmosphere must be completely renewed every hour.

Ask a specialist

“To calculate forced ventilation, you will need to sum up the required air exchange rates for each room, taking into account its area, and based on the resulting amount, select equipment that will cope with this task.”

For example: a house has three rooms, a kitchen, a bathroom and a boiler room. We calculate the productivity for each room in accordance with its purpose and area:

kitchen -90 cubic meters per hour;
bathroom – 50 cubic meters per hour;
boiler room - 70 cubic meters per hour;
children's room - 40 cubic meters per hour;
living room - 120 cubic meters per hour;
bedroom - 60 cubic meters per hour.

Total - 430 cubic meters per hour for the whole house. Therefore, for the successful operation of the ventilation system, an installation capable of handling such a volume of air will be required. You can install one unit or divide the power according to the needs of each room and install the units separately.

An example of how to properly make ventilation in a private house in the following video:

Before deciding how to make a hood in a private house, read the standards SNiP 02/31/2001 and ABOK 2/1/2008. They suggest using it to calculate the air exchange rate. The indicators in these documents differ slightly, so for independent calculations it is better to choose a larger value.

Features of do-it-yourself ventilation schemes in a private house, depending on the specifics of the building design

If the air exchange system is combined into one, the design of the ventilation system in a private house should provide for the movement of air from “clean” rooms to “dirty” ones. That is, from living rooms to the bathroom, boiler room and kitchen.
Supply valves are placed in every room where there is no hood.
If the building has two or more floors, ventilation ducts are placed according to the basic principles.
Natural ventilation through vents is installed for the basement, basement, and foundation.
Passive ventilation exhaust ducts are located strictly vertically.
For uniform draft, the exhaust channels must be the same length without narrowing or widening.

To minimize heat loss, ventilation shafts are carefully insulated, especially in places where they open onto the street.

Do-it-yourself ventilation installation in the house

Some difficulties may arise during the work. The main problem is the weight of the equipment for forced ventilation. Sometimes one craftsman is not able to lift and install the unit. That is why take care in advance of an assistant and a lifting mechanism that will make the task easier. You can assemble the unit step by step. The structural units are assembled on the ground and installed sequentially according to the diagram. Do-it-yourself supply and exhaust ventilation is installed using some special equipment.

In a frame house the task is greatly simplified. Installing fresh air ventilation with your own hands will only require the use of a stepladder, drill and jigsaw.

Features of installation work

If ventilation in a private house passes through brick walls, it is better to install ventilation ducts during the construction process, so as not to have to deal with labor-intensive and expensive drilling later. Use templates made of cardboard or wood during the laying process so that all air ducts have the same cross-section. Lay out the inside of the air duct with solid bricks, carefully sealing all joints.

To bring the ventilation outlet to the roof of a private house, you can use asbestos-cement pipes. They are connected to the ventilation duct in the wall and carefully secured, cementing the entire structure.

Important! Make sure that the cross-section at the joints of the ventilation duct does not change. To do this, remove excess solution and make sure that the inner surface of the air duct is smooth.

And, of course, do not forget about your own safety while working:

do not work on the roof in icy or rainy weather;
if the roof slope is more than 20 degrees, use insurance;
when drilling walls, use a hidden wiring sensor;
When using a jigsaw or drill, use protective glasses and gloves.

How to choose pipes for ventilation

When choosing pipes, the following basic requirements should be taken into account:

section size;
heat resistance;
tightness;
compliance with sanitary standards.

Round pipes are an easily available material with good aerodynamics. Most often, ventilation in a private house is made from sewer pipes. Air ducts with square and rectangular cross-sections are more difficult to find, but you can make them yourself from a stainless steel sheet. It is easier to install such pipes for ventilation in private houses in right angles and under the ceiling.

Now about the pipe material. Galvanized steel air ducts are resistant to corrosion and temperature changes. Stainless steel is suitable for hoods in “hot” rooms – boiler rooms and kitchens. A plastic ventilation pipe for hoods is the cheapest option and is ideal for wet areas.

Article

In order to have fresh and clean air in an apartment or house, the kitchen must have very good ventilation. Natural ventilation cannot cope with the task of timely removal of odors during cooking, so a special forced ventilation device is hung above the stove - a kitchen hood. How to install the hood correctly, how to secure it and connect it to the ventilation system - more on that later.

Installing a hood in the kitchen is a wise decision

How to hang a hood over the stove

With the correct size, it is equal in width to or even slightly larger than the width of the slab. To install the hood correctly, you need to place it correctly and secure it. The electric hood is located exactly above the stove. The installation height depends on the type of hob:

The minimum permissible height for hanging a hood above a gas stove is 75 cm.
Above the electric value is slightly less - 65 cm minimum.

You determine the exact height yourself - based on the height of the housewife who will cook. The bottom edge of the hood should be slightly higher than her head. You shouldn’t hang it lower than the minimum distance, but you can hang it higher. But if you need to hang equipment higher than 90 cm from the level of the stove, you need a unit with increased power so that contaminated air is removed effectively.

The hood is attached depending on the type. Built-in - to a specially ordered cabinet size. Wall hung (flat) and dome (fireplace) - to the wall. The fireplace hoods themselves can consist of two parts - a unit with a motor and filters and a dome. Both parts are attached independently of each other, but so that their outputs coincide.

It is worth mentioning separately about island hoods. They are attached to the ceiling. The kit includes a suspension system and clear instructions on what and how to do.

Installation stages

The entire installation and connection process can be divided into several stages:

If there is an outlet nearby, there will be no problems with connecting to electricity. The other steps are also not very complicated, but let’s look at them in more detail.

Attaching a wall or dome model to a wall

Although these two models differ in appearance, they are attached to the wall. They have four holes on the back wall of the case - two on the left, two on the right. Many manufacturers supply their products with a mounting template, which marks the location of the fasteners. All you need to do is lean the template against the wall and move the marks. If there is no template, measure the distance between the holes and transfer it to the wall. If you have an assistant, you can ask them to hold it at the selected height and make the marks yourself.

Then everything is simple: use a drill to make holes of the appropriate size, insert plastic plugs for the dowels, then hang the hood on the dowel-nails. Naturally, we check that the installed equipment is horizontal.

This method is good if the wall is smooth and nothing interferes. Often there is a gas pipe running next to the stove, which makes it impossible to hang the hood close to the wall. In this case, you can nail wooden blocks to the wall, and attach the hood to the bars. This is a simple option, but not a very good one - the bars become covered with soot and are difficult to wash.

The second option to install the hood behind the pipes is to use a hairpin screw (the second name is a plumbing pin). They have a thread for screwing into the wall, a smooth part, which makes it possible to carry the hood some distance from the wall, and a smaller thread with two nuts, which will be used to secure the body. There are these studs in different sizes, choose which one you need, but all the nuts are made for a bit or an octagonal wrench.

This option for mounting the hood is universal, simple to implement, and reliable. It is also more convenient to clean - the metal is usually stainless, and it is easy to clean it from deposits.

Installing a built-in hood in a cabinet

The built-in hood is almost completely hidden in the cabinet made for it. It is attached in exactly the same way as described above - with screws, only they are screwed into the walls. Only in advance it is necessary to make holes for the air duct in the shelves located above. This is done after the hood has been purchased, since the location of the air outlet depends on the company and model.

If the cabinet is hanging, it is better to remove it. In the removed cabinet, install the hood in place, mark the location of the air outlet on the bottom shelf, and cut it out. To do this, it is easier to use a jigsaw and a file with fine teeth. The laminate file leaves almost no chips. If desired, you can seal the cut area with a plastic C-shaped furniture profile. They are rigid and flexible. The flexible one is easy to use - it bends at any angle; the rigid ones will have to be heated with a hair dryer before installation. These profiles are “set” with glue; most often “liquid nails” are used. After installation in place, remove the remaining glue (with a damp, clean cloth) and secure it to the shelf with masking tape. We cut off the excess profile with a fine-tooth file, and clean the cut with fine-grain sandpaper.

We make holes in the other shelves in the same way. By the way, they may no longer be round, but rectangular - it depends on the cross-section of the air duct you have chosen.

After this, all the shelves are installed in place, the cabinet is hung and secured. A built-in hood is attached to it with screws through holes in the body. Next is the process of connecting the air duct.

How to connect the hood to electricity

Since the power consumption of kitchen hoods rarely exceeds 1 kW, they can be connected to regular sockets. It is desirable that they be grounded. This requirement must be met if you want the warranty to be valid.

If the wiring in the apartment is old, you can install the grounding or grounding wire yourself. Just don’t attach it to water supply or heating pipes. This threatens the possibility of electrical injury or even death for you, your members or neighbors.

To reach the ground wire, on the shield, find a busbar with wires attached to it or a pipe to which a stranded wire is welded/screwed. You can also connect your own stranded wire to these devices (without discarding those that are already there). For it to work properly, the cross-section must be 2.5 mm, the conductor must be stranded copper, and a non-flammable sheath is desirable.

Some hoods come with a plug at the end. There are no problems with connecting such models - just plug into the outlet and that’s it. But there are models in which the cord ends with wires. This is not because of the greed of the manufacturer, but so that the consumer himself can decide how best to connect the equipment. If you want, you can connect a plug. This option is not suitable - take the terminal block and connect through it. Another option is Wago terminal blocks. You need to take three of them - according to the number of wires. In one terminal block, identical wires from the hood and from the panel are connected - phase to phase (the colors may be different here), zero (blue or dark blue) to zero, ground (yellow-green) to ground.

Air duct for kitchen hood

One of the stages of installing a hood is the selection and installation of air ducts. Air at room temperature is removed from the kitchen, so there are no special requirements for air ducts and any can be used. Three types are usually used:

There is also a difference between plastic and corrugated air duct - price. Polymer ones are more expensive. Despite this, if you have the opportunity to install a hood using PVC, install them. With an equal cross-section, they provide more efficient air removal and are also less noisy.

The cross-section of the pipes for the air duct is determined by the size of the outlet on the hood. In the case of rectangular pipes, an adapter is used.

Air duct sizes for hoods

Round ducts are available in three sizes: 100 mm, 125 mm and 150 mm. This is the diameter of plastic pipes and corrugated hoses. There are more sections of flat air ducts and they are presented in the table.

How to choose a size? In the case of round pipes, their diameter must match the diameter of the hood outlet. It is very undesirable to install an adapter at the outlet and then use an air duct of a smaller diameter - this will reduce the speed of air purification. And even if the hood is very powerful, it will not cope with air purification.

When choosing the cross-section of a rectangular air duct, its cross-sectional area should not be less than the cross-sectional area of the outlet pipe. And the connection occurs through a suitable adapter.

How to attach corrugation to the hood and ventilation

If you decide to install a hood and use aluminum corrugation for the air duct, you will need to think about how to attach it to the body and to the ventilation. To do this, you will need clamps of the appropriate size. They can be metal or plastic.

To connect the hood to the ventilation system, you will also need a special ventilation grille. It has a hole in the upper part for connecting the air duct pipe. There are holes in the lower part to remove air from the kitchen using natural circulation when the hood is not working.

A grate with a protrusion is suitable for attaching the corrugation - around the hole there is a side of several centimeters, onto which the corrugation is placed, after which it is secured using a clamp of a suitable size.

The corrugated air duct is attached to the hood using the same principle. It has a protrusion on which the corrugation is placed. The connection is tightened using a clamp.

How to attach an air duct to walls

For plastic air ducts there are special fastenings in the form of latches. They are first mounted on the wall using dowels. The installation step depends on the curvature of the route, but on average, 1 fastening per 50-60 cm is sufficient. Pipes are inserted into these latches during installation with little effort.

If the air duct needs to be fixed to the ceiling, you can use the same fasteners. But if you need to maintain a certain distance from the ceiling, this type of installation will not work. In such cases, take perforated plasterboard hangers, attach them to the ceiling, then use small PVC screws to attach an exhaust duct to them.

Corrugated air ducts are attached to the walls using clamps or large plastic ties. If necessary, they are also mounted to the ceiling using perforated aluminum hangers.

Where and how to remove the air duct

Most often, the air duct from the kitchen hood is connected to a ventilation hole through which natural ventilation occurs (due to draft). This is incorrect, since in this case most of the grille is closed by the air duct, and air exchange through the remaining accessible holes will be clearly insufficient.

Correctly connect the air duct to a separate ventilation duct. In this case, the same grille as in the photo above is installed on the hole.

If there is no separate ventilation duct, but there is an external wall nearby, you can take the pipe to the street by placing a grille outside. These are two ways to have normal ventilation and ensure normal operation of the hood.

How to take it outside

To install the hood and lead the air duct into the wall, you need to make a hole in it. And this is the only difficulty. Next, an air duct is inserted into this hole and sealed with mortar. From the outside, the hole is covered with a grill to prevent debris from getting in and birds and small animals from settling in.

To prevent outside air from blowing into the room, install a check valve (in the figure above it is indicated by an oblique line). By the way, it is advisable to install it when connecting the air duct to the ventilation system - so that odors from the pipes do not enter the room.

The check or anti-return air valve is a lightweight plastic or metal plate. It is movably attached in two places to the pipe - at the top and bottom, the petals are supported by a weak spring. While the hood is not working, the valve blocks access to air from outside. When the hood is turned on, the air flow bends the plate forward, pressing the spring. As soon as the hood is turned off, the plate returns to its place using springs. If you install a hood without this valve, it may be too cold in the kitchen in winter - outside air will enter the room without problems.

So that the hood does not interfere with natural ventilation in the kitchen

Using a tee and a check valve, by the way, you can install the hood so that it does not interfere with natural ventilation in the kitchen. You will need a special ventilation grille for connecting hoods, a check valve and a tee. A tee is attached to the ventilation grille, an air duct from the hood is connected to its lower entrance, and a check valve is installed on the free outlet, only so that the petals are locked when air passes from the pipe (pictured below).

How does such a system work? When the hood is turned off, the petals of the check valve are bent, air from the kitchen enters the ventilation duct through the grille and the open outlet of the tee. When the hood is turned on, the air flow from it unfolds the valve plate, and the air flows into the ventilation system. When the hood is turned off, the springs again open air access through the tee.

Externally, such a system does not look very attractive and will have to be disguised in some way. But this is the only way to connect the hood to the only existing ventilation outlet and not reduce air exchange.

1. Purpose of a kitchen hood.
2. What the system consists of and the necessary set of tools.
3. Preliminary work.
4. Installation of the exhaust system.
5. Testing a kitchen hood in winter.
A kitchen hood is placed above the stove and is designed to ventilate and purify contaminated air (soot, odors) or move it outside the room. Installing a kitchen hood is a labor-intensive process if you do not have a ventilation opening, requiring basic knowledge and skills in electrical engineering, if you need to move or reconnect the outlet. The rest of the work is not difficult to complete, the main thing is to have practical skills in construction.
What the system consists of, and the necessary set of tools and materials.
The provided built-in domestic exhaust system consists of:
- fan with grease catcher and local lighting;
- exhaust duct;
- transition elements;
- corrugations, diameter 115 mm;
- air duct, length 300 mm and diameter 130 mm;
- ventilation visor with a check valve with a diameter of 130 mm.
Power is supplied through a plug socket, which is located in the internal area of the hood duct.

Preliminary work.

Installing a kitchen hood begins with determining its location. After this, circles are drawn on the supporting wall for an air duct with a cross-section of 130 mm and a socket with a diameter of 65 mm. Using a hammer drill and a long drill, through holes are drilled along the contour of the future ventilation opening and in its center. Using a lance, an opening with a diameter of more than 130 mm is knocked out through the holes. Using a crown or drill (6 - 12 mm) and a pick, a place is prepared for the box for the socket. From the switching box, in compliance with the installation standards for electrical systems, a groove is punched or cut to the socket, and a copper two-core wire with a cross-section of two millimeters is laid, so that its ends hang from the listed boxes by 150 - 200 mm. Alabaster secures the box for the socket and wire. An air duct with a cross-section of 130 mm is installed on the cement mortar, at an inclination of 5 - 10 degrees to the street side.

After the solution has dried, the wall is leveled with starting and finishing putty.

Once the solution has hardened, finishing work is carried out. The ends of the embedded wire are stripped of insulation and connected to the phase, neutral and terminals of the socket, which is then installed in its regular place.

Installation of the exhaust system.

1. Installation of the visor. A canopy with a non-return valve is attached to the façade of the building at a level.

In case of strong deviation along the vertical axis, the valve will be in the slightly open position when the air removal system is idle.
2. Preparing the box. The built-in hood is mounted in a 305 mm deep box made of laminated chipboard (16 mm thick) and covered with an MDF facade. Other sizes are shown in the photo.

In the back wall and in the chipboard shelf, through elements are cut out with a jigsaw for a corrugation (140 mm cross-section) and a socket, the end of which is protected from moisture with silicone. On the inner shelf, closer to the corner, a hole with a diameter of 8 - 10 mm is drilled for inserting the electrical cable.

The hood box is connected to other wall kitchen cabinets.
3. Attaching hanging drawers to the wall. Adjustable canopies are attached to the boxes.

The strips for awnings are marked and fastened on the wall. The boxes are hung and leveled.
4. Installation of the transition. A transition from section 125 (outer size) to 115 mm (inner diameter) is inserted into the air duct from the inside of the duct.
5. Installation of a kitchen hood. A cable is threaded through the prepared shelf hole, and the exhaust device is immediately fixed to it. A plug is connected to the cable. One end of the 115 mm aluminum corrugation is inserted into the air duct, the other is clamped onto the device pipe.

The plug is inserted into the socket and all modes of operation of the device are checked.

Testing a kitchen hood in winter.

During the research, at -20 0C and the kitchen stove was idle (more than 12 hours), it turned out that if condensation does form, it does not get into the kitchen or onto the facade of the building, the valve always remains free and the system works without interruptions. Based on the data obtained, we can conclude: small exhaust systems up to 1.5 m with an air duct installed at an angle will not be covered with ice in the winter.

Quite often, when remodeling a kitchen, we are faced with a problem: the kitchen hood either does not fit the dimensions of our set, or does not fit into the design of the kitchen at all. The solution in such a situation could be a homemade kitchen hood - and even though its creation will require us much more time than installing a factory hood, but as a result we will get a device that ideally meets all our requirements!

In this article we will tell you how to make a hood in the kitchen yourself, and we will provide two fairly detailed instructions for making it yourself.

General information about kitchen hoods

Before moving on to considering the proposed options for manufacturing devices for removing “exhaust” air from the kitchen, it is necessary to understand the very principle of operation of the hood.

As the name implies, a kitchen hood forcefully “pulls” hot, polluted air from the kitchen—or rather, from the space above the stove—and then removes it from the room.

As a rule, the air is removed into the ventilation ducts of the building - which is why, when buying or making a hood, you must first of all take care of the proper state of the ventilation of the house. If there is no draft in the system (and this happens when the ventilation has not been cleaned for a long time), then the efficiency of the hood will be extremely low.

In order for air to be removed as efficiently as possible, it is necessary, along with proper ventilation, to ensure sufficient air flow into the room.

Note!
If you have metal-plastic windows with a high level of tightness installed, you may observe some problems in the operation of the hood - therefore experts recommend either using the micro-ventilation function or installing supply ventilation valves on the windows.

The modern market of household appliances offers us many models of hoods, but by and large they can be divided into two large groups:

Passive - dome-type hoods that remove air solely due to upward draft. There are no electric motors or fans inside these devices, but such a hood will only work if the ventilation ducts of the building or a high ventilation pipe are in good condition.
Active - hoods, the operation of which is ensured by an electric motor installed inside. Such devices operate more stably, but consume quite a lot of electricity.