How to make a big eversion of the wheels. Inversion of wheels for drifting on a classic. The weakest point of the design

It is known that the angle of rotation of the wheels (eversion) on VAZ classic cars can be increased by simply raising money and buying a system like wisefab. After a difficult installation, Can be rotated up to 65 degrees. Similar devices are sold for other cars.

Master car enthusiasts have implemented many of their own ways to increase the steering angle on VAZ cars, ironically calling such methods custom tuning or “ collective farm tuning”, however, such mechanisms are not inferior in strength and manufacturability of installation to those purchased in the store.

Turning wheels for drifting on a classic do-it-yourself work process

The sequence of work to increase the angle of rotation of the wheels of VAZ cars is as follows. It is not difficult to perform it, understanding why each action is performed.

1. Cut off the limiters on the levers.
2. Cut off the limiters on the steering gearbox.
3. Buy elongated 4 bolts with washers for the VAZ G8 generator.
4. Install negative camber by replacing the bolts from the kit with purchased generator ones.
5. Bipod manufacturing.

The eversion axis is a straight line passing through the ball bearings. To this axis it is necessary to move the steering tip as much as possible.

To do this, carry out welding work on the bipod. You should know that the bipod is made of good metal, which can be welded by any welding.

When marking the bipod for trimming, it is necessary to combine the axis of rotation with the steering knuckle as much as possible, while the attachment point on the rod should be at the same level. Try to create a gap between the steering tip and the bipod lever at the maximum eversion.

In the case when the manufactured shortened bipod still comes into contact with the brake caliper, it can always be moved forward.

The easiest way is to swap the brake caliper mounting brackets from the left side to the right. So you can save a few centimeters of distance and leave the turner alone.

To install the hub, remove the edge, otherwise the hub will not go inside its seat. The tapered hub bearings remain in place, a cone sits on them and is secured with long bolts with washers.

It remains to install new elongated brake hoses, for this it is best to just buy Nivovsky brake hoses. The GAZelle has even longer brake hoses; they can also be used on the VAZ.

1. Install brake disc.

Buy ordinary spacers for a VAZ, you need 4 of them on each side - a total of 8 pieces. Spacers need to move the brake disc. The removal must be done, since the caliper is displaced by a centimeter by transferring the brackets and installing spacers.

It remains to fit the spacers in place, inside the brake disc, fix the spacers. The total height of the spacers, each equal to 5 mm, should compensate for the distance of the caliper offset.

1. Make extended tie rods using a standard tip. Position the bend of the tip so that there is no contact with the parts. The bottleneck is the possible contact with the spar.

It is possible that the new mechanism will touch the internal parts of the body. They can be cut with a grinder, as they will not spoil the outer surface of the body. Most often, trimming the body can not be avoided in the area of ​​​​the upper ball.

Testing the operation of the whole mechanism can result in the deformation of the overcooked bipod, so try to make "hard" tests, for example, do not go around the curb at full angle. A strong bipod is a guarantee of safety. Technical refinement of the car, this is on its own.

Hi all! Today we will talk about eversion, more precisely about the large angle of rotation of the wheels on Nissan Silvia. Silva was taken first not by chance, since this model is one of the most popular cars for drifting.

And the next one will be Sky, well, in general, we will go in the order of this section: Choosing a car for drifting.

As you know, for a good and high-quality skid, a large eversion is needed. On different drift cramps, this is achieved in different ways, but in fact there are only 2 options. This is either to buy a ready-made set of increased eversion or to collective farm. Option 1 is much more expensive than Option 2.

How does the Nissan Silvia do such a hell of a twist?

Eversion, theory!

If you want a hell of an eversion, then you need to do the following things:
1) Extend wheelbase wide wishbones, otherwise the wheels will rest against the spars. To do this, you can take levers from c14, c15 or Skyline r33 (they are wider), you can buy adjustable levers like megan. For drift cramps and you can zakolhozit lever on the SC and expand it as you like.

If you cheat a little, you can make part of this "work" a disc overhang or a spacer under the disc, but it compensates a little. But it will help a lot if the disk rests on the traction.

2) The most productive issue that needs to be addressed is fists, or
We leave stock

We modernize it - we cut down the eversion limiter (under the tie rod mount, although we don’t have them rest, there are no stops on the lever, and somehow they go higher)
important point this is the transfer of the tie rod mount closer to the axis of the fist, the closer the mount is, the greater the angle the fist will turn, but you will have to give more effort ... who will scare you with this
options:
make adapter plates
and weld them to the fist, this will solve two problems at once

Drawings on them could not be found, but this is purely individual. They are welded to the knuckle on both sides, can be reinforced with scarves, a plate pin is inserted into the old hole for attaching the steering rod and everything turns out to be quite safe and usable. Along the way, the problem of understating the car is solved, more on that below.
For drift cramps, you can stupidly saw off and digest the fry on your fist.

The easiest option- buy tuned fists welded by professionals from thick sheet metal with all the necessary amplifiers
such

3) Steering rods and tips you need to select according to the length of your “config”, you can make adjustable rods from several. And as a result, the length turned out to be greater than necessary, but there is a margin for sawing off part of the thread from both the rod and the tip. So the question is open. This is the difference in the length of the steering rods and their diameter.

4) Steering rack if it remains standard, then you can put spacers like these in it

These spacers give the rail an additional 18mm of travel (or how much you make them and how much the rail allows), because as standard the rail rests not on the end of the thread on it, but on the steering rods, these spacers will allow the rail to go another 13mm on one side and 5mm on the other. A quick death of the rail seals is possible.
After all these procedures, there may be a bite due to the transfer of the fastening of the rods closer to the axis of the fist, for this it will be necessary to transfer the fastening of the rail on the subframe.

But you can grind such spacers, install them horizontally and you won’t have to transfer the rail.

5) to the arches of the wings far away and they should not interfere, therefore, whether to file them or not - this must be decided locally, depending on the size of the rubber, clearance, wishbones and the resulting eversion.

The whole theory. You can radically change the suspension and steering principle, if you are completely bored.

And so we buy a ready-made kit

Europe is fierce, here is such a set for eversion! It's Wisefab! Probably the most expensive way.

Collective farm with an eversion!

Compromise between price and angle. Let's start in order, the stock eversion rests on the limiters on the lower arm, which means we completely remove this limiter, the eversion is quite a bit but increases. Now we do not have enough rack travel, so we need to increase this travel with such spacers.

As you can see, one washer (placed on the right (driver's) side) increases the stroke by 5mm and one spacer (placed on the passenger side) increases the rack travel by 13mm and increases the length of the tie rod! It works like this:

Next, you need to move the ear mounts steering tip outward, you can either digest it yourself (as I did) or order ready-made such full on sale)) The picture below perfectly explains why this is necessary:

In practice it looks like this:

Next, the transfer of the axis of the steering rack. What is it for: when shortening the bipod, the tie rods become at a very large angle, which leads to bite of the rail, that is, alignment of a straight line: tie rod ball - steering tip ball - lever ball. As soon as such a straight line is built, the rack is not able to turn the wheel back, therefore, the car will continue to drive with the steering wheel turned ...
Solutions two:

Spacers with transfer of steering rods, but with such spacers the load on the rail increases
Rack transfer, steering rack mounts are sawn off and moved forward by 20mm

Well, then the tensions (when turning inward) and the langeron (when turning outward) interfere with turning the wheel, this is solved by lengthening the lower arm, that is, we increase the track, and, as it were, we separate the wheels from the tension rods. The lever is simply cut in half and a 30mm spacer is welded in, you can also replace the levers with longer ones, from 34 skye and put wheels with a good reach.

Collective farm set:

Well, something like this, the eversion turned out to be very masculine. He limited himself to the fact that the steering tips rested on the lower levers, we will solve with tyunenny tips.

Well friends, this is the end of the first article. Of course, large eversion angles can be achieved in other ways, this is just a general idea. Which option to use is up to you! You can see other information about the turn in other Nissan Silvia projects.

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Hello! Today we will consider ways of entraining the eversion angle on the classics.

Let's move on to our favorite topic of do-it-yourself tuning or custom tuning of vases.

To begin with, we cut the limiters on the levers, and on the steering gear.
On levers:

On the steering gear:

The goal is to move the steering tip closer to the eversion axis (upper and lower ball facing each other are the axis of rotation). And don’t be afraid to cook, the bipod is made of such a metal that it won’t fall apart, and the place of welding WILL NOT WHEN FALL OUT if it’s simply welded, all the levers will rather bend (checked) and the spars will go away before the bipod bursts.

Approximate cutting location:

What was and what should happen:

Most likely, having welded it, it will rest against the brake caliper. Treatment caliper moved forward, put the brake hoses Niva. When designing the bipod, try to hit the axis of rotation as much as possible. This is if you look from behind (in the direction of the car) at the steering knuckle, then the location of the attachment to the steering rod should be at the same level. BUT! DO NOT GROW CLOSER, OR THE STEERING TIP MAY RESIST ON THE LEVER WHEN REVERSING.

Preparation and removal of the caliper (to put a shortened bipod).

Steering knuckle with hub and bracket that holds the brake caliper. Pay attention to the bend (inward), take it and just turn it over (or rather, swap them from left to right). This will give a centimeter of offset without extra krailov. Of course, you can pervert and order from a turner ...

Not a big hemorrhoid! Remove the edge so that the hub goes inside (for those who don’t understand, make the hole just bigger, remove the edge of the smaller circle and make it one big one)

In this case, the hub will remain in its place and its tapered bearings do not move anywhere and are put on the cone. We take long bolts and washers and stick everything together.

We take spacers (ordinary VAZ) in the amount of 8 pieces (4 per side). They will give the offset directly to the brake disc itself (because we already removed the caliper by one centimeter by turning the bracket and another one by spacers) (it turned out 2 cm, math!), And the spacers are just about 5 mm each (sum them up and voila! the same two centimeters)

AND PILIM. MODE SHOVING SO THEY ENTER THE INSIDE OF THE BRAKE DISC

Taxiing. We make long steering rods. Here is such a standard tip (this difference is the eversion). The bend is very important, it helps to avoid contact with other parts, and most importantly with the spars.

THE WEAKEST POINT OF THE STRUCTURE

IN THIS PLACE TWISTS THE BODY, TIES IT INTO A KNOT EVEN AFTER A LIGHT TOUCH ON THE CURB

We put elongated hoses from Niva or Gazelle.

After transferring the upper ball, it began to touch the body, and then the grinder helped, cut out everything that interfered.

As a result, you should get something like this:

Making a twist on the classics

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Hello!
Today we will tell you about how to make an eversion on the classics yourself.

To begin with, we saw the limiters on the levers and on the steering gear.
On levers:

On the steering gear:

To make the desired negative camber, there will be few standard bolts, to replace the standard bolts you will need to buy bolts from the VAZ 2108 generator (4 pcs), we make a negative camber with washers so that it looks something like this:

We pass to the bipod.
The goal is simple, move the steering tip closer to the eversion axis (upper and lower ball facing each other - this is the axis of rotation). And do not be afraid to cook, the bipod is made of such metal that it will not fall apart, and the place of welding will not fall apart if it is just boiled, rather all the levers will bend and the spars will go away before the bipod bursts.

Approximate cutting location:

It should look something like this:

Most likely, when you weld it, it will rest against the brake caliper. This is treated by moving the caliper forward and installing Niva brake hoses. When designing the bipod, try to hit the axis of rotation as much as possible. If you look from behind (in the direction of the car) at the steering knuckle, then the location of the attachment to the steering rod should be on the same level. BUT do not get too close, otherwise the steering tip may rest against the lever when turning out.

Preparation and removal of the caliper.
We take a knuckle with a hub and a bracket that holds the brake caliper. Pay attention to the bend (inward), and simply swap them from left to right. This will give you a centimeter of stem without too much “krailov”. Of course, you can pervert and order from a turner ...
The next step is to remove the edge so that the hub goes inside (for those who don’t understand, make the hole just bigger, remove the edge of the smaller circle and make it one big one)

In this case, the hub will remain in its place and does not move anywhere, its tapered bearings are put on the cone. We take long bolts and washers and stick everything together.

We dress the brake disc and check that everything slows down.
We take spacers (ordinary VAZ) in the amount of 8 pieces (4 per side), they are just about 0.5 cm each, which will give the brake disc the extension.

Taxiing.
We make long steering rods. Here is such a standard tip (this difference in size is an eversion). The bend is very important, it helps to avoid contact with other parts, and most importantly with the spars.