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Interesting small toilet design. We do our own toilet renovation! Renovation in the toilet where to start: design, cost, important points Simple bathroom and toilet renovation

When it comes time to make repairs in the toilet, in most cases it is necessary to replace not only the design of the room and sanitary ware, but also to make a complete or partial replacement of plumbing and sewer pipes. This article will talk about how to make overhaul toilet with your own hands.

Tools needed to repair a toilet

To carry out the preparatory work and the repair itself, you will need:

for dismantling accessories in the toilet or assembling the frame for sheathing, you will need screwdriver, preferably accompanied by bit set;
if it is necessary to remove the old tile, it is necessary to prepare perforator. In the Repair process, it will also be required to drill holes in concrete or brick walls;
gas key. It is useful for unscrewing and securing the screw connections of the toilet bowl, sink or pipes;

for applying a waterproofing layer or primer, you will need brush or roller;
notched and regular spatula for applying tile adhesive;
welding device and special scissors for plastic pipes;
roulette;
building level. It is good if there is a small one, up to 60 cm long and long. This will make the job easier;
during work, tools such as a chisel, hammer, hacksaw, etc. may also be required.

Dismantling of old plumbing

If a do-it-yourself toilet repair is planned to be capital, then work begins with the removal of old plumbing (toilet, sink and bathroom, if the bathroom is combined).

Regardless of whether work is being done in an apartment in a multi-storey building or in a private house, first of all, cold and hot water must be completely shut off. After that, the sink and toilet are cleaned. It is advisable to remove the second one last and install it back at the end of the working day so that you can use it.
After making sure that water does not flow through the pipes (it is enough to open all the taps) from drain tank drain all the water. If this is not done, it will leak onto the floor.
Most often, sinks in the toilet are mounted on brackets that are attached to the wall. But sometimes they are made with decorative pedestals covering pipes and drains. In this case, you must first dismantle it by unscrewing the fasteners near the floor. Then a basin is placed under the sink and the siphon is unscrewed, as a rule, a certain amount of water is poured out of it. The resulting hole in the sewer pipe is recommended to be tightly plugged with a rag. This will protect against the appearance of an unpleasant smell in the room.
Via gas key unscrew the water supply hoses, through which water flows to the sink. And only now you can remove the sink itself with a mixer.
Dismantling the toilet begins with disconnecting it from the hose that supplies water to the tank. Then, depending on the installation, it is unscrewed from the base or removed from the brackets.
Remove the pipe that leads directly to the sewer drain. Even if the toilet is re-installed, it is better to throw out this element immediately and purchase a new one.
The toilet is unscrewed from the floor. If it was planted only on self-tapping screws and sealant, then it is enough to shake it slightly, after which it will easily separate from the floor and you can remove it. Often, in old houses, toilets were mounted on a concrete solution, here you can’t do without buying a new one, since you won’t be able to carefully remove it.

Preparing the walls and floor in the toilet for renovation

A number of modern finishing materials intended for the renovation of the toilet and bathroom involve the use of crates, and therefore, at first glance, there is no need to remove old coatings. But during the service they could absorb unpleasant odors and mold will appear in the cracks. If the cladding is planned with a material that is attached with glue, then high-quality preparation of the base is simply necessary.

Ceramic tiles It is convenient to remove with a perforator with a special nozzle. Or knock down with a hammer and a chisel, but this is a very long process.

painted walls preheat with a blow dryer until the paint begins to bubble, after which it is scraped off with a spatula. Or, without heating, they clean it with a grinder with an iron brush.
For removal plasters it must be well wetted with water from a spray bottle. When it gets wet enough, it is scraped off with a spatula.
Wallpaper removed in the same way as plaster. But you can wet them not just with water, but with a special compound that is sold at any hardware store. After it is absorbed, the old wallpaper easily moves away from the wall.

Having finished with the walls, proceed to cleaning the floor.

Floor tiles removed in the same way as from the walls, using a perforator or chisel. Then the surface is cleaned with a grinder from small pieces, achieving absolute smoothness.
If the concrete floor is very old and crumbled, then it is advisable to remove the top layer and refill.
To eliminate small irregularities, there is no need to make a full-fledged concrete screed, it is enough to make a thin layer of self-leveling floor.

At the end dismantling works all dust is cleaned with a construction vacuum cleaner.

Primer and waterproofing in the toilet

For areas such as a toilet or bathroom, it is recommended to use a deep penetration antiseptic primer. It will not only improve the adhesion of the tile adhesive to the surface, but also protect the walls from the formation of mold and mildew.
Apply it in 2 layers, with the complete drying of the previous one.
Even if the toilet is not combined with the bathroom, it is necessary to make high-quality waterproofing of the floor in it. This is due to the fact that sewer and water pipes pass through the premises, and in case emergency flooding is unavoidable.

For the floor in the toilet, it is most convenient to use liquid waterproofing, which is applied with a brush. It also needs to be done in 2-3 layers with a 10-15 cm approach to the walls. The joints of the floor and walls are the most vulnerable, in these places it is advisable to lay a special tape on the waterproofing composition that has not yet hardened.
When the waterproofing of the floor is finished and completely dry, they begin to change the pipes.

Replacing pipes when repairing a toilet

Metal pipes have long been replaced by plastic and metal-plastic counterparts. Therefore, if old pipes are still installed in the house, they must be replaced at the repair stage. So that in the event of an accident it would not be necessary to urgently dismantle a new lining to repair or replace the water supply.

In order to completely replace them, all pipes should be dismantled up to the place where the wiring for a particular apartment was made. It is not always easy to do it yourself, it is better to call a plumber.
AT further work not difficult, you just need to replace the old pipes with new ones in a similar way. It is more difficult if it is planned to introduce new devices, such as boilers or stationary cleaning modules.
plastic pipes easy to cut with special scissors. For their fastening to each other, fittings are used, the inner diameter of which is equal to the inner diameter of the pipes. First, the pipe is cut to the desired size, after which one end is inserted into a special soldering iron and a fitting is immediately strung on the other end of this soldering iron. He melts them from the inside, after which they must be very quickly pulled together and connected to each other.

After the pipes are routed, their fittings remain open; to prevent construction dirt from entering them, plugs are temporarily placed on all outlets.
Modern pipes are gray or white (the second option is almost twice as expensive). They look quite aesthetically pleasing, but still, it is recommended to make a decorative box for them, which can later serve as a convenient stand.

Installation of a pipe box in the toilet

The box is a frame covered with moisture-resistant plasterboard.
For the frame, wooden slats 2 cm thick or a metal profile are suitable. They are cut to size and immediately attached to the floor and walls. Even small items must be checked with a level.
For plumbing (for a sink or washing machine), such a box is placed along the bottom of the wall. For sewers, they make a vertical one in the corner of the room or right behind the toilet.

Repair of small toilets photo

Each box must have a special window that, in the event of an accident, will provide access to important nodes systems. It is convenient when, instead of sheathing with drywall and further tiling it with tiles, it is sewn right along the frame plastic panels. In this case, it can be quickly and easily completely disassembled.
Moisture-resistant drywall or plywood is suitable for sheathing the frame of the box. They are fixed with screws. When cutting, the edges must be even, so that as a result, the correct form of the corner joints is formed.
If it will be tiled, then it is enough just to process the finished box with a primer. If it is planned to apply plaster, paint or wallpaper, then it is necessary to putty the entire surface, while reinforcing each joint of the material with a sickle.

Facing materials for finishing the toilet

Despite the fact that the humidity in the toilet is much lower than in the bathroom or in the combined bathroom, it is still customary to choose moisture-resistant finishing materials for its decoration. This is mainly due to the fact that the walls absorb unpleasant odors over time and it should be possible to wash them periodically. This is especially true for small toilets, since in modern private houses these rooms have a large area and are often complemented by a window. The most popular types of finishing materials for repairing a toilet in a typical Khrushchev:

PVC panels;
washable paint;
ceramic tile;
washable wallpaper.

Plastic (PVC) panels

Plastic toilet panels are an economical and quick option for finishing a toilet. Until recently, their main disadvantage was their low aesthetic appeal, but today the choice of such materials is very wide. Modern panels not only imitate the pattern of materials, but also repeat the relief and structure. High-quality printing of the applied pattern allows you to achieve truly beautiful interiors.

Advantages:

panels are produced in lengths from 2.5 to 3 m. This is enough to pick up right size for the height of the ceiling in the toilet;
versatility lies in the possibility of their fastening, both on the walls and on the ceiling. But in the latter case, narrower models are offered, often with mirror inserts;
they are easy to install with a minimum set of tools. Do not require long-term surface preparation and rough work. After fastening, there is practically no debris left in the toilet;
the presence of the crate allows you to hide all the wiring and make additional sound insulation or insulation. What is especially important when repairing a combined bathroom in which it is located washing machine.

Stages of installation of plastic panels on the walls

First of all, measure the area of \u200b\u200bthe walls of the toilet, minus the doorway. Also take into account the required amount of material for lining the boxes, if any.
In addition to the panels themselves, you will need to purchase additional elements (connecting profiles, corners, skirting boards, etc.).
On prepared walls, a crate is made of horizontally arranged rails or a metal profile. The more often they are placed, the more rigid the facing structure will turn out. At the same stage, if necessary, mortgages are made of board or metal in those places where wall cabinets, mirrors, etc. will be attached.
Often, apartments in old houses sin with uneven walls and ceilings, so it is recommended to measure the length of each panel. The excess is cut off with a construction knife or grinder. The first panel is attached starting from the corner. Fix it on small self-tapping screws with a press washer so that the panel is attached firmly, but it does not warp due to too deep twisting.
The next panel is simply inserted into the one already attached. Thanks to the groove / spike fastening, it turns out to achieve a seamless effect, of course, if the pattern allows it.

At the very end of the work, the corners are closed with special plastic extensions, and the junctions of the walls with the floor and ceiling with skirting boards.

Repair of the ceiling in the toilet with plastic panels

To attach PVC panels to the ceiling, you will need to create a fundamentally different frame than for walls. It is necessary to create a suspended structure.
Metal perforated suspensions along the ceiling are attached to the ceiling with a step of 50 cm. To them, in turn, are attached light bars measuring 2x2 cm.
Or, along the perimeter of the toilet, a profile is screwed with an indent from the ceiling of 3-5 cm and longitudinal guides are already attached to it.
All communications are located in the resulting subceiling space, they make wiring for future lighting and ventilation.
The installation of the panels themselves is no different, they also begin to be fixed from one of the edges, inserting each subsequent one using the provided connection.
When they reach the place where the lighting fixture will be located, the hole for the wire is carefully cut out with a sharp knife. In diameter, it should be slightly smaller than the decorative overlay of the lamp.

Ceramic tile

The most common type of finishing material in the toilet. Noble designs and excellent characteristics have made ceramic tiles indispensable in finishing rooms with expected high humidity.
You can buy it in different price categories and different sizes. Depending on the size of the toilet room, either large-format tiles or mosaics are chosen. A combination of different sizes, textures and colors will also look beautiful.
The disadvantages include only the difficulty of doing the work yourself, if there is no experience and a large number of dirt during repairs.

Technology for repairing a toilet with ceramic tiles

Since the tile is attached directly to the walls, channels are first ditched for all communications. Having laid the wires in them, they cover them with putty on top.
Next comes a layer of primer with antifungal additives. It dries quickly, but it is better to apply at least 2 layers.
If ceramic tiles are attached to a concrete base, then you can immediately begin to apply the adhesive. If drywall acts as a base, then adhesion with it should be improved using a special mixture - concrete contact. This is a thick primer, which contains coarse sand. As a result, after drying, a rough surface is formed. It is applied in 1 layer.
For the first row of tiles, you need to screw the starting metal profile around the perimeter of the entire room. Be sure to carefully verify it with a building or laser level.

Tile adhesive is sold in dry form, you need to stir it in small portions (so that you have time to use up the entire batch within half an hour). To do this, glue is poured into a container with water and continuously mixed with a drill or a screwdriver with a special nozzle. When the desired consistency is reached, it is left to reach literally for 5-10 minutes.
The finished glue is evenly distributed over a small area with a notched trowel, starting from the bottom, from the mortgage, and up. The first tile is fixed in the corner, immediately put the next one, measuring the evenness of the seam with a cross or a match. Crosses should be installed perpendicular to the wall, and not buried in the adhesive solution. Thus, the entire area is filled. Side tiles must be measured in advance and cut off the excess with a tile cutter. It is quite difficult to work with a manual unit, very often there are chips or uneven edges. Therefore, the supply of finishing material should be sufficient to compensate for such a marriage.
Corner joints are unlikely to be perfect if there is no experience with ceramic tiles. But they can be closed with special decorative corners.

Passing the entire wall from the bottom up at a time is not recommended, due to heavy weight each tile. Therefore, having made 3-4 rows (depending on its size), it must be left for a day so that it dries out and grabs the wall.
After finishing with laying the tiles, they wait a couple of days for it to fully strengthen. Then all the crosses are removed, and the seams are filled with cement grout. It also dries very quickly, so it needs to be diluted little by little. You will need a rubber spatula to apply. To make the seams beautiful, after drying they are leveled with a slightly damp sponge. This work is completed.
Tiles are laid out on the floor in a similar way, with the only difference being that the entire amount of work can be done at once. For grouting, it is better to choose a mixture of dark or gray color, since white or light-colored seams quickly get dirty underfoot.

Toilet renovation wallpaper

More recently, wallpaper was glued in the toilets as if it were cheap option finishes. They quickly absorbed unpleasant odors, and did not look very nice. But modern materials have high technical specifications, which allow you to use a range of special wallpapers to decorate the toilet.

If there is high humidity in the bathroom or poor-quality ventilation is installed, then from the usual paper and vinyl wallpaper better to refuse. It is not recommended to use and natural materials, based on bamboo or reed.
But glass wallpapers, washable vinyl or non-woven models, as well as wallpapers with a durable waterproof coating made of polymer or synthetic materials are suitable. One of modern species- This stone wallpaper, they are made of real stone, but so thin that they can be easily rolled up and glued to the walls. At the same time, while maintaining all its strength and moisture-resistant qualities.

All these types are suitable for washing with a damp sponge using non-alkaline detergents(soap or dishwashing liquid). Since over time, house fungus forms on the walls in the toilet, which is a plaque that resembles dust, but cannot be washed off with a dry cloth. Or the usual blue mold.
Another type of wallpaper suitable for the toilet is called liquid.. On sale they are only in dry form, and before use must be mixed with water in the right proportions. They have a rather voluminous structure and look a bit like decorative plaster. But, despite this, they will not close the flaws and irregularities of the walls. Therefore, they also need to prepare the base carefully. As for other wallpapers. If repairs are needed, this is quite easy to do. It is enough just to soak the desired area with water and either clean and apply a new layer of the mixture, or simply level the existing one.

Dear forum users and undecided guests! Here I did a cosmetic renovation of the bathroom and toilet and filmed the whole process especially for you. I will be glad if my modest photo report will save some of you some time, money or nerves
We are talking about a separate bathroom in a typical three-room house of the I (209) A series.

with a huge bathroom (150x140) and a majestic toilet (110x70)
All this is enclosed in a box of asbestos-cement sheets with a height of 230.
I'll make a reservation right away - it was initially decided to make a modest redecoration without moving the walls and installing a jacuzzi. Just to make it nice to go there, nothing more.
So let's get started.
Here's what it was:

A terrible sight, isn't it?
To start, let's break old tiles.

The tile is easily knocked off, it was glued 20 years ago, no one knows what. But old glue remains on the wall and must be removed. Otherwise, a new tile is not normally put. The old glue is removed along with the paint on which it was applied with a heat gun (building hair dryer) and a spatula.

Removed easily. But the work is boring and not interesting. Along the way, the tiles on the floor are knocked off. In the toilet, I knocked her down, because. it did not hold well there, but in the bathroom it held firmly, so I left it there as a base for a new tile.
Along the way, replaced the eyeliner to the washbasin.

For adventures related to this, see the section "Learning from mistakes"
Also, in between cleaning the walls, I change the drain in the bathroom.

He, of course, is no longer unscrewed, so it remains only to cut.

Here's what's really going on inside your pipes
Nothing can break through this, so put 50 mm removable plastic pipes that can always be removed and cleaned. Which is what I did.
To be continued...
We continue to repair.
Drain-overflow was purchased like this:

The cast-iron pipe in the toilet also could not be removed, so it was smashed with a hammer (several neighbors hanged themselves)
And a flexible corrugation is inserted through a rubber gasket.

This further helped in that the toilet could be moved back and forth when laying tiles on the walls. Otherwise it would be inconvenient.
Since you can’t live without a toilet bowl for a long time, I immediately put the tiles on the floor and put in a new toilet bowl (with a guarantee I don’t remember which one is large), without screwing it to the floor yet.

Then he removed the old doors along with the box. And this is where it stalled.
Boxes for them used to be made specifically for this configuration of the bathroom, and in order to insert new doors, I had to pretty pervert with new jambs. The fact is that inserting a standard box into such an opening with thin walls, and even keeping the size under the door leaf, is quite problematic. opening:
I had to tighten the jambs with an additional beam (in the photo - white)

Then I hung the doors, cut in the handles and locks, and glued the trim on the outside.

Before that, I spread the electrics between the doors, replacing the wires with copper and cut out a place for a mortise switch.
To be continued...
I removed the flexible wiring in the riser and put the filters on the surges. The pipes were pressed with bars.

The metal-layer decided not to install. There is a lot of fuss to get him behind the wall, and we (I hope) will not have long to live in this apartment.
Now the towel warmer.
The wife wanted a ladder with a shelf instead of a curved pipe. No sooner said than done. The supply there is, of course, quite different. To begin with, he called the ZhEKovsky plumber, who turned off the water, welded in a jumper, cut off the old heated towel rail and installed taps. (For everything, about everything - 5 tyr.)

I hid the pipe between the walls, making cuts with a grinder

Everything, you can lay tiles ...
The tiles were bought 10x10 cm, slightly different in tone from each other and with jagged edges. Rough edges are very helpful for inexperienced tilers (like me). They forgive small shifts in the masonry - as if it were meant to be.

After a long study of the market (the chief technologist of Knauf was already ready to give me the chemical formula), the glue and primer were chosen by Lugato, these are:
Ideal for application on a flexible surface (asbestos-cement sheet). True, dear, contagion. For 12 sq.m. walls and 2 sq.m. floor took exactly 3 bags of 25 kg.
Without a tile cutter - nowhere, I had to buy
But even without a grinder - too. Cut-out for a recessed outlet for a hair dryer and a light switch above the bathroom mirror:
Glue can be applied both on the wall and on the tile, where it is more convenient. You can put it from top to bottom - it does not slip.
Since the bathroom itself and the sink are green, I bought some of the same tiles, but in a green tint. Its quantity was gradually reduced from bottom to top. The tiles in the bathroom on the floor are also greenish.

I bought a mirror almost in the entire wall - 120x60 and decided not to hang it on the tile, but to do it flush with the tile. To do this, I glued rubber of the desired thickness on the back of the 3M double-sided adhesive tape
I also glued the back surface with adhesive tape so that the fragments would not scatter if it suddenly breaks. And hung.

Now the ceiling.
Since the ceilings are already so low, and the task was set for me to make a suspended one with a built-in light, I screwed the bars only 2 cm thick, and cut holes for the lamps right in the asbestos-cement ceiling. There is 20 cm of empty space.

And he put plastic panels, pre-cutting holes in them for lamps and fans. Fans turn on simultaneously with the main lighting. The lamps are energy-saving, that is, they do not heat up at all, which is important for the bathroom.

Then grouting. This is where my best friend, my wife, came to the rescue.
Towel dryer installation:
And shells. Holes for the sink were drilled with a special drill:

Faucets bought "Damixa".
Skirting boards and sills in the bathroom and toilet made of tiles

Now you can glue the platbands from the inside:

Well, all kinds of baubles

Well, it went something like this:
Though it's not over yet..
I want to hide the sewer pipe from the bathroom and the sink in some plastic box. And still have not figured out how best to make the back wall and the door to the riser.

Sooner or later, all of us have to deal with such a problem as the repair of the toilet room. Unlike other rooms, for a quality repair, it may be necessary to replace the sanitary ware, water pipes, installation of counters. And the cost of finishing can vary significantly, depending on the material chosen. In this article, we will analyze how to do quality work at minimal cost and where to start repairing the toilet.

The entire toilet repair process can be divided into separate stages for convenience.

Before starting all work, it is necessary to work out the design and layout of the bathroom, select the expected type of finishing materials and plumbing, and draw up an estimate taking into account unforeseen expenses.

Room cleaning

A complete repair in Khrushchev means cleaning everything installed in the toilet. Only supply pipes, a riser and bare walls with a ceiling should remain. For convenience, it is better to carry out in the following sequence:

We beat off the old tiles from the walls with a puncher or a hammer with a chisel. Old plaster or wallpaper is also best removed by pre-soaking with water. If we finish on the old flooring, we will have to reduce the size of the room by 3-5 cm, which is undesirable for such a small space. In addition, it is unreliable and short-lived.
We are filming tile On the floor. We clean the resulting surfaces with a metal brush nozzle on a drill.
We wash the whitewash from the ceiling and wash off the dust and dirt from the walls.
Now you can start dismantling the plumbing. To do this, shut off the cold and hot water. If the combined bathroom is being repaired, then it will be necessary to disconnect the sink along with the faucet and drain. Usually, after old sinks, fastening brackets remain - they also need to be dismantled.
The toilet itself can be left until the last, so that it can be used. Before removing, we drain the water from the tank, unscrew the toilet bowl to the floor and beat off the drain into the riser, if it is cemented. We remove the drain pipe to the very riser, it will no longer be useful.

The better the cleaning of the premises on this stage, the easier it will be to do finishing work later, especially with tiles and wallpaper. The exception is pvc paneling, for which it is enough to make a frame over old walls.

Replacement and repair of communications

Having gained open access to the riser and the supply pipes of hot and cold water, you can begin to replace them, repair, and install meters. In old houses, the wear of all communications reaches the limit, so you should take care of replacing the riser and pipes in your apartment. by the most best material for the riser there will be reinforced polypropylene, and it is better to entrust all work on its replacement to specialists from the Housing Office. It will be faster and better than self-replacement. Responsibility for the work performed and possible accidents will lie with the installers and the management company.

Further intra-apartment wiring can be done on your own using metal-plastic pipe or corrugated stainless steel. Plastic pipes are well cut and easily connected to each other using fittings and a special soldering iron. Such a connection turns out to be very reliable and durable, and a wide range of pipes and fittings allows you to build wiring of any configuration in the bathroom.

The gray or white pipes themselves look quite aesthetically pleasing, but it would be more correct to put them in special boxes, which will then be covered with finishing materials.

For a small toilet, this is the best solution - the riser is closed with a vertical one, and the piping is closed with a horizontal box made of moisture-resistant drywall or plywood. Soundproofing can be additionally laid in a vertical box.

It is also possible to lay the pipe in a specially hollowed-out cavity in the wall. This option looks more aesthetic and takes up less space. It is only necessary to take care of the easy accessibility of the valves that shut off the water to the apartment.

Surface preparation and cladding

It is best to start with the walls and ceiling. So concrete walls simple enough, but brick or cinder block walls may be required. In general, planes in such small rooms are rarely with strong deviations, otherwise you will have to resort to plasterboard lining or PVC panels.

For puttying, we need two spatulas - a worker, 30 cm long and an auxiliary, 5 cm long, a cement-based putty mixture, for example, Vetonit. Preferably a drill with a special nozzle and a bucket. The finished mixture is applied with a short spatula to the main one, and then smeared from the bottom up along the wall. By changing the angle of inclination of the working tool, it is possible to fill deep cavities and level the already applied putty. After 3-4 hours, problem areas can be re-treated. The time for complete drying of the putty is 24 hours. Then the wall is sanded and primed.

After leaving the walls to dry, you can start leveling the floor. For this, a quick-drying screed is used. The mixture is prepared based on 1 m2 with a thickness of 1 cm, 12-13 kg of dry material will be required. The resulting solution is poured in a thin layer on the floor, and then leveled with a spatula, referring to the installed beacons and level. It is necessary to obtain a flat horizontal surface.

When all preparatory work done, it's time to realize the conceived toilet renovation ideas. It is also better to start fine finishing from the walls and ceiling.

Wall coverings

When choosing a material, you must be guided by the same principles as for a bathroom or a combined bathroom. In old houses, the toilet is a small unventilated room with high humidity in which wet cleaning will be carried out periodically.

Therefore, preference is given to moisture-resistant materials that do not absorb odors and are easy to clean.

PVC panel walls

Laying tiles is similar to the work done on the floor in the toilet, and the installation features of plastic panels should be considered in more detail.

We measure the area of \u200b\u200ball walls minus windows and a doorway. This also includes the cost of lining technological boxes and make a small margin for trimming and fitting. All pvc panels are produced in lengths from 2.5 to 3 meters, the standard width is 30 cm. We calculate the integer number of planks and additional elements - corners, skirting boards, connecting profiles.
We attach a crate of wooden slats or a metal profile to the walls. They should be located horizontally and as often as possible for greater rigidity of the entire structure. Fastening is carried out using dowels. At this stage, we fasten the embedded tires for fastening hanging cabinets, mirrors and water heaters, lay wiring to sockets and switches.
Fasteners of the first panel start from the corner. We fix it with a self-tapping screw with a press washer or small nails, each subsequent one is inserted into the groove of the previous one. This is how the seamlessness of the coating is achieved, and it is impossible to make a mistake with such an assembly.
Excess material can be cut off with a knife or grinder. After completion of work, the corners are closed with additional elements, and the joints of the floor and ceiling with skirting boards.
ceiling lining pvc panels carried out in a similar way.

Wall and floor tiling

Ceramic tiles are found on sale in any size, color range and for any budget. This material is very durable and practical, which is why its popularity is so high. The disadvantages include only laboriousness and a large amount of dust and debris.

Consider how to make repairs in the toilet using tiles:

Walls and floors must be pre-prepared and primed. You can additionally apply an antifungal primer, and if laying is on top of drywall, then a special mixture such as concrete contact, for better adhesion. All communications and wiring are laid in cable channels.
We start laying tiles on the floor from the corner near front door. For walls, it is necessary to screw the base metal profile around the entire perimeter, carefully aligning it in level.
The glue is sold in dry form and is prepared in small portions immediately before laying in order to have time to use within 30 minutes. The kneading is carried out using a drill with a nozzle.
We apply glue with a notched trowel from the bottom up, the layer of glue should approximately correspond to the thickness of the tile. The first tile is placed in the corner, next next and so on. At intervals we fix plastic crosses to ensure the uniformity of the gaps.
Floor tiles can be laid at a time, and wall tiles, due to their heavy weight, are best not to stick more than 3-4 rows at a time. It will be right to take a break for a day so that the glue finally grabs the wall.
The tiles are cut with a special tile cutter, you can use a grinder with a special abrasive disc. During this procedure, marriage is possible, so the number of tiles should be purchased with a margin.
After the tiles have finally stuck, the crosses can be removed, and the joints can be filled with cement grout - a fugue. This is done with a rubber spatula, and the shade of the solution is selected according to color scheme toilet. It is better to choose a grout for the floor in a dark or gray color - it will not get so dirty underfoot.

Plumbing installation

When all the dirty finishing work is finished, you can proceed to the final stage of repairing the toilet. You should start with the installation of the toilet.

Having installed the toilet bowl on the floor, it is tried on and its location and attachment points are marked with a marker.
We remove the toilet bowl to the side and drill holes for the dowels with which it is attached to the floor.
We fasten the toilet bowl, close the bolt caps with decorative caps.
We connect the toilet pipe with a corrugated pipe with a pipe on the riser. We seal with special rings with cuffs so that the connection is tight.
From above, we install a flush tank on a special platform or fasten it to the wall. We collect the insides of the tank - a float, a valve, a flush lever and connect it to the cold water pipe according to the instructions.

If the dimensions of the room allow or the bathroom is combined, then it is necessary to install a sink and a faucet. For ease of installation, it is better to assemble and connect the mixer before attaching the sink to the wall. Having attached the washbasin to the wall with dowels or anchors, we proceed to connect the flexible hoses to the threaded fittings that were previously removed. Lastly, we install a siphon and drain into the sewerage system with a seal with a rubber cuff.

After installation is complete, it is necessary to flush the entire system with plenty of water. All identified leaks are repaired. Now you can close communications and drains with a decorative pedestal or cabinet. The joints between the floor and the toilet can be filled with silicone sealant.

With minimal tools and skills finishing works you can easily realize your creative ideas for repairing the toilet. You can do it yourself - quickly and inexpensively.

No matter how paradoxical it may sound, but repairs in the smallest room of an apartment - a bathroom can cost more than finishing a huge room. To a large extent, this is due to the relatively high price of high-quality plumbing. Yes, and the work of master tilers will be expensive. Do-it-yourself toilet repairs can significantly reduce costs. Of course, in this case, the already lengthy process will drag on even more, but the final amount in the estimate will greatly decrease.

Preparatory work

Where to begin? First of all, you need to remove the old plumbing and finishing materials. To do this, we need some tool:

Several screwdrivers of different sizes and sections;
Screwdriver;
Gas key No. 3 or No. 2;
Perforator;

You can get to work. First, we dismantle and take out the old plumbing - a washbasin, a bathtub, a toilet bowl. If a washing machine is installed in the bathroom, we start with it.

Important! When planning to live in an apartment during renovation, take into account the fact that you can somehow manage without a bath and a washbasin, but you can’t do without a toilet. Try to dismantle it last. After replacing the pipes, it can be put back, but not fixed.

Washbasin dismantling

Whatever design of the washbasin you have, the principle of its dismantling is the same:

Shut off cold and hot water;
Open the faucet valves and let the water drain;
Using a wrench or gas wrench, disconnect the flexible hoses;

Important! When disconnecting flexible hoses, remember that water may remain in them. Take care of where it will flow.

Unscrew the fixing nuts of the mixer and remove it;
Place a container under the siphon to collect water and unscrew the siphon cup. Drain the water and replace the glass;
To disconnect from the sewage system, unscrew the nut under the bottom of the sink, while holding the siphon glass;
Unscrew the nut at the top of the siphon and disconnect the drain pipe;
Remove the wedge washer and nuts on both sides of the pipe and remove it;
If the siphon connection to the sewer is cemented, arm yourself with a chisel and hammer. Positioning the chisel at a right angle to the pipe, beat off and remove the solution;
Remove the siphon from the sewer hole and close it with a special cover. If there is no cover or the hole is non-standard, we plug it with a rag so as not to block the flow of water.

Now let's remove the shell. “Moydodyr” is simply taken out of the room, and the shell is screwed off, holding it so that it does not fall.

Dismantling the bath

Given the size of this piece of plumbing, it will take a little longer to tinker than with a washbasin:

Turn off and drain the water;
We unscrew the siphon nut and remove the drain grate;

Important! If the bath is very old and the nut “boiled”, you will have to break the drain grate. The easiest way to do this is from the inside of the tub with a hammer and a small chisel. We beat off the segment of the funnel and bend the rest so that it passes through the drain hole of the bath.

Disconnect the overflow;
We take out the outlet pipe from the sewer pipe;
Now it remains to disconnect the ground strip and you can take out the bath.

Dismantling the toilet

If you do not plan to use this plumbing item during the repair, you can remove it completely. If there is a need for it, postpone dismantling until the pipes are replaced.

So let's get started. As in previous cases, turn off the water and drain the remnants from the tank:

We unscrew the inlet hose on the water supply;
We remove the tank from the toilet, after unscrewing the nuts under the shelf. If you had a hanging cistern, simply disconnect the pipe from the toilet and remove the cistern from the fixtures;
We remove the toilet mounts: unscrew the dowels or unscrew the nuts from the studs;
We take out the rubber socket from the sewer pipe, after substituting a container for drains under the connector. If the toilet is installed on a cement mortar, we again take up the hammer and chisel;
We close the sewer hole with a lid or rags;

Flush the toilet and you're done.

Wall and floor cleaning

Of course, before you make repairs in the toilet, you must decide on the type of wall and floor covering. A combined bathroom is recommended to be finished with ceramic tiles, and a separate toilet can be pasted over with washable wallpaper or sheathed with plastic. Looks great in this room and lining.

Before laying ceramic tiles, walls and floors must be cleaned of old finishing materials. It all depends on what they were covered with.

If it's ceramic tile, knock it down. The easiest way to do this is as shown in the video.

If the walls were covered with wallpaper - remove them and check the strength of the walls. In places where the plaster has moved a little, you need to beat it off completely. If the layer of plaster is strong enough and even, it can be left.

Important! Quite often, in old houses, the plaster on the walls is applied unevenly. In this case, it is better to remove it. Otherwise, by leveling the walls, you will significantly reduce the already small area of \u200b\u200bthe toilet.

The whitewash needs to be washed off. If the layer is thick, use a spatula. Wet the surface with warm water using a rag or spray bottle, and then remove the entire layer of whitewash.

Painted oil paint walls need to be cleaned especially carefully. Paint residue can significantly reduce adhesion. This can be done with a special tool or manually. These videos will help you master both methods.

Do-it-yourself toilet repair - video of the wall preparation process.

We clean the walls from paint manually.

AT last years appeared on sale chemicals that corrode the paint. Although the reviews about them are contradictory - from enthusiastic to sharply negative - you can try.

Installation work and finishing

Waterproofing

If the toilet is combined with a bathroom, good waterproofing is essential. Yes, and in a separate toilet, where, as a rule, the central risers of the water supply and sewerage pass, it will not hurt.

There are several types waterproofing materials. The most popular of them are coating and pasting. The former are produced in the form of mastic and are applied to the surface with a brush or roller, while the latter are a self-adhesive film. The use of the latter requires careful preparation of the walls. So, the surface difference should not be more than 2 mm. Coating waterproofing can be applied to unprepared walls. The main thing is that they are clean.

In a combined bathroom, it is recommended to isolate the entire surface of the walls and floor. Sometimes, in order to save money, only the areas around the bath, shower and washbasin are protected. This approach makes sense only in sufficiently large rooms. In small bathrooms, the material savings are so insignificant that it’s not worth it to “fence the garden” - it’s easier to isolate the entire surface.

In a separate toilet room, you can only do floor waterproofing:

Vacuum the surface;
Prime it;
If there is a crack between the wall and the floor, it must be sealed. cement mortar or tile adhesive;
We glue the corners and joints between the plates (if any) with a specially sealed tape;

Waterproofing material, regardless of type, must be applied not only to the floor, but also to the lower part of the wall - about 20 cm.

Pipe replacement

Most often, in the process of repairing the toilet, the replacement of water and sewer pipes is also carried out. In most apartments, the central risers pass through this room. If the pipes in your house are old, try to negotiate with the neighbors above and below and replace them. Even if you can't replace the entire riser, change the section of pipe that runs through your apartment. In this case, the connection point must be located in the apartment where the old pipes remained.

Of course, the internal wiring of the water supply and sewerage should also be replaced. Pipes made of polymer materials can be hidden in the walls.

To do this, it is enough to make a strobe in the wall, lay the pipes and close the strobe with a solution. It should be noted that if a riser passes through the toilet, it makes no sense to hide the remaining pipes in the walls - it still won’t work to hide the riser. It is much easier to close all pipes with a box.

"Hiding" pipes

Agree, even modern pipes crossing the room from floor to ceiling will not add aesthetics to it. This means they need to be hidden. This can be done using a drywall or plastic box with a window for access to the pipes.

Roller blinds are sometimes used as a screen to provide free access to pipes. This method will allow not only to hide the pipes, but also to arrange several shelves for household items.

By entering the query "bathroom toilet repair photo" into any search engine, you can easily find dozens of options for similar designs.

Wall alignment

In order to make the perfect repair of the toilet with your own hands (everyone can choose an ideal photo for themselves on the Internet or in numerous thematic magazines), it is necessary to carefully level all surfaces. Let's start with the walls. First of all, with the help of a level, a plumb line and a corner, we measure the curvature of the walls. If it is insignificant, and you have chosen tiles as a finishing material, it is enough to arm yourself with a spatula and tile adhesive. In this case, the leveling process is very similar to the puttying process.

If the walls are very crooked, you will have to plaster. It should be said that this process is time-consuming and for a beginner it can be quite difficult. The following video will help you understand all the subtleties of this process.

Thus, we align all the walls.

floor leveling

The waterproofing layer on the floor must be covered with a concrete screed. In this case, it is better to add polypropylene fiber to the solution. This will help avoid shrinkage cracks. In addition, the floors in our apartments are rarely even. So with the help of a screed, we will solve two problems at once - we will hide the waterproofing and level the floor.

Important! If you decide to arrange a warm floor in your toilet, lay it before pouring the screed.

It is easiest to pour the screed along the "beacons". In a small room, it is enough to install only two guide rails - along the walls. The distance between the "beacons" should be 1-1.3 m. Special plaster beacons are sold in stores, but if you want to save money, you can use trimmings for this purpose. wooden beam or metal profile for drywall. The cost of repairing a toilet can be slightly reduced not only by doing all the work yourself, but also by trying to send as little leftovers to the landfill as possible. building materials. The main thing here is not to overdo it - sometimes excessive savings lead to very disastrous results.

So let's get started:

We set the guides according to the level and fasten them to small slides of the solution;
Necessarily long level check the location of the beacons relative to each other;
When the solution is dry, proceed to pouring. We start from the far corner of the room and move towards the door;
We pour out several buckets of mortar near the far wall and “stretch” it with the rule as shown in the video for leveling the walls;
If you get deep "pits", add a solution to them and once again go through the rule;

After the entire surface of the floor is covered with a screed, let it dry. This process usually takes several days. Do not try to speed it up due to the high temperature in the room - this will lead to a significant decrease in the working qualities of concrete. On particularly hot days, it is necessary to cover the concrete with plastic wrap and moisten it once a day.

Important! The period of complete drying of the concrete screed is about a month. That is how long you need to wait if you put an electric "warm floor" under the screed.

Laying tiles

When all communications are replaced, the box is installed, and the floor and walls are leveled, you can start laying the tiles. Fortunately, the variety of colors, sizes and textures of this material will satisfy even the most demanding consumer, and you can peep ideas for repairing a toilet in the same magazines.

First of all, lay the tiles on the walls.

Measure the height of the wall and divide it by the height of the tile. This way you will get the number of integer rows. Then calculate the height of the cut tile.

Important! When calculating the height of the cut tile, be sure to take into account the gap between the rows. Usually it is 2-3mm.

Measure from the floor a distance equal to the height of the trimmed row and attach a flat wooden plank or metal profile according to the level;
At the corners of the wall, using a plumb line, we fasten vertical strips - they will serve as a vertical level;
We prepare a solution. To do this, pour water into the prepared container and pour the adhesive composition in small portions. We stir with a construction mixer (special nozzle for a drill).

The required proportion is usually indicated on the package. But the final decision must be made based on the consistency of the solution: it must adhere to the wall and not drain, and at the same time be sufficiently elastic and smear.

The technology of laying tiles on walls and floors is perfectly shown in the next video. In addition, from it you will learn how to properly cut tiles and grout the seams. On video experienced craftsmen do not use vertical levels, but for those who have taken up laying tiles for the first time, it is better to play it safe.

Toilet repair - video instruction for laying tiles

Ceiling

The ceiling in the bathroom can be almost anything - plastic, stretch or plasterboard. The latter is less preferable, but if you really want to, make it from moisture-resistant GKL. In this case, it must be borne in mind that such drywall sheets are heavier than ceiling ones, which means that the supporting structure for them must be reinforced.

Plumbing installation

You can start installing plumbing within a day after grouting the joints on the tile. A variety of models of toilets, washbasins and showers does not allow general recommendations on their installation. As a rule, the package contains instructions that will help you cope with the last stage of the repair.

That's all. Now you know exactly how to repair the toilet yourself: where to start, what to pay special attention to, how to save as much as possible. As you can see, the repair process in this small room takes a lot of time and effort. The only good thing is that it is done quite rarely. Of course, if all the work is done correctly, and the materials are chosen with taste.

After you bought a new beautiful apartment, you will need repairs. Repair in a new building inexpensively, quickly and efficiently. Excellent masters will always help you.