Do-it-yourself floor leveling solution. How and how to level a concrete floor: modern technologies and materials. Leveling the floor with a leveler

A flat floor in any room is necessary not only for aesthetic reasons, but also prevents injury to the owner of the property. The unpleasant appearance of a rickety cabinet cannot be compared with the overturning of a rocking TV or a broken limb as a result of a fall on "almost level ground." Whatever the cause: initial errors during construction or the appearance of potholes and cracks during operation, the question “How to level the floor?” sooner or later it gets up before new settlers, and during repairs.

In modern housing construction, the basis of the floor in a house, apartment, garage, office is concrete or concrete slabs. Depending on the purpose of the room, linoleum, ceramic or PVC tiles, parquet, laminate, carpet are laid on top, and the durability of the external, often expensive coating, depends on the evenness of the concrete floor base.

To obtain an even solid base for the floor finish, to achieve thermal, hydro and sound insulation, leveling is carried out either by screeding or by applying solutions of special mixtures for leveling the floor.

The choice of leveling method depends on the size of the difference in floor height and the material of the finished floor: with a difference in floor level of 3-4 cm, a leveling screed of the concrete floor is performed; if the floor is generally even, but a large number of cracks are found, then leveling is performed with self-spreading mixtures or tile adhesive.
Specialists distinguish between several types of screed, based on two main laying methods: dry screed and screed with the addition of various liquids.

Dry screed is easily performed even by a novice builder, it is cheaper and significantly insulates the room. Expanded clay, dry quartz sand, expanded polystyrene are used as a filler. Plywood, gypsum-fiber moisture-resistant sheets (GVL) or wood boards (chipboard, fiberboard) are laid on top, so a dry screed is made more often in living rooms.

The cleaned floor is impregnated with a primer solution that strengthens the concrete and increases its waterproofing properties. You can use "Betonkontakt". After drying, a layer of polyethylene (more than 50 microns) film is laid, joining the panels with an overlap of 18-20 cm and gluing them with adhesive tape. An overlap of 12-15 cm is left along the walls and glued with a damper tape.

In the absence of the necessary experience, it is advisable to lay U-shaped profiles turned upside down on the floor as beacons, setting them in level. Having filled a part of the filler into the formed cells, level it with a rule and lay sheets of the future floor, gluing the joints of the GVL with PVA glue and tightening it with self-tapping screws after 18-20 cm.

At the walls, the edge of the gypsum fiber sheets is cut off. You should not pay attention to the apparent instability of the first sheets; when they are spliced ​​into a single monolith, they get a solid warm floor.

Thinking about the best way to level the floor, the majority tends to the classic version of the cement-sand screed, which provides a solid, even base for the finishing layer of the floor. The thickness of the future screed must be at least 3 cm, otherwise the strength is reduced significantly.

The concrete base is also cleaned, primed and dried. With the help of a conventional, water or laser level, beacons are installed, using a laser level, you can install beacons without assistants. Lighthouses are mainly installed with durable metal slats or T-profiles, but you can use pipes, edged board or bar.

The slats are installed on a thick solution, at a distance of no more than a meter from each other. The solution must be allowed to harden, otherwise, when leveling the screed, you can move the beacons and all the work will go down the drain.

Subsequent work does not require experience, but patience: pouring out the solution sequentially from the far corner, the floor is carefully leveled with a rule, moving it not only along the rails, but also making hand movements in a circle. In this case, the solution moves to the right and left, compacting and filling the voids.

To prepare the solution, cement of the M500 brand is most often used, adding three parts of sifted sand and water to one part of it (about 1 liter per 1 kg of cement). You can also use ready-made leveling compounds for the floor, commercially available: M150, M200, M400. The higher the number in the name of the mixture, the stronger the resulting coating. Prepare solutions in accordance with the instructions on the bag.

On the next day after laying, the screed must be lightly moistened with a roller, on the second day it is re-moistened and the strength of the solution is checked. If it is already possible to walk on it, the beacons are carefully pulled out and all the voids formed are rubbed with a fresh solution.

The screed is covered with a plastic film and, periodically moisturizing over the next week, is kept until hardened for at least 2 weeks, and preferably a month.

Along with strength and relative cheapness, the leveling floor screed takes a lot of time, which modern self-leveling mixtures, often called self-leveling floors or leveling mixtures, lack. The top coating can be installed after 10-12 hours, and the fully self-leveling floor acquires its characteristics within 12-14 days.

Such mixtures can be used with a height difference of not more than 3 cm, guided by the instructions attached to the bags with mixtures, since the further strength of the coating is more dependent on the chemical filler of the mixture. Deep (more than 6 mm) cracks and depressions must first be repaired with mortar and dried.

A leveling mixture diluted according to the instructions is poured onto the cleaned and primed concrete and leveled with a metal spatula. After that, the self-leveling floor is rolled with a spiked roller, removing the smallest air bubbles that reduce the strength of the floor.

It is necessary to do the work together, as the mixture sets in about 10 minutes. If necessary, slow down the curing rate, the floor is slightly moistened beforehand. cold water, which also avoids cracking of self-leveling floors.

The small thickness of the finished floor allows it to be widely used in rooms with low ceilings. Along with the high cost, the negative characteristics of self-leveling mixtures include brittleness and low resistance to low temperatures of epoxy mixtures; mixtures based on polyurethanes are not resistant to chemical attack; methyl methacrylic are slightly resistant to abrasives.

Sometimes small cracks or irregularities are found in the floor, in this case it is possible to level the floor with tile adhesive, given that, for example, Ceresit can crack already at a thickness of 3 mm. It is undesirable to use a full leveling of the floor with tile adhesive, replacing the self-leveling floor with it, despite the cheapness of the glue.

When deciding for yourself how or with what mixture to level the floor, it is necessary to take into account the temperature and humidity of the room, the level difference and the slope of the concrete base, the expected loads during the operation of the floor, labor and financial costs.

The technical characteristics of concrete floors must meet the requirements of SNiP 2.03.13-88 and the recommendations of the development manual existing rules and norms. Unfortunately, not all builders perform their work with high quality; during the laying of the finish coating, you have to deal with the correction of the admitted marriage.

Concrete floors can be leveled with self-levelling mortars, cement-sand mortar screeds or adhesives for ceramic tiles. Under linoleum and carpet, the leveling of concrete floors is considered a mandatory operation; under ceramic or stone tiles, the decision is made based on the actual state of the supporting base. All floors installed on logs can be laid without prior leveling of concrete bases.

In the article we will look at several examples of alignment using various materials taking into account the actual condition of the floors.

Part modern materials for leveling concrete floors, several components are included, along with high mechanical strength, the mixtures have good spreadability, ease of use, low shrinkage, resistance to various chemical compounds, manufacturability and relatively low cost.

Most of the existing brands meet the requirements of consumers, during the selection, the main attention should be paid to the following factors:

• which floor should be leveled. There are options for in-situ concrete, industrial reinforced concrete slab, base cement screed, self-leveling floor, underfloor heating system, etc.;
• fill thickness. Depends on the maximum roughness values ​​and the type of alignment. Alignment can be preliminary or final. There are no strict requirements for the horizontal surface to the preliminary, it is used for finishing floor coverings along the logs. During installation, the position of the lag is controlled, if necessary, with the help of wedges or other linings, they are aligned;
• floor finish type. The softer the flooring, the more accurate and stronger the alignment should be, the better the material should be purchased.

After all the questions have been answered, you can begin work on leveling the concrete floor. To carry out the work, you will need a suitable this case self-leveling floor, primer, construction mixer for preparing the mixture, mortar container, powerful (preferably industrial) vacuum cleaner, needle and paint rollers, wide stainless steel spatula, laser or water level, dowels for lighthouses, damper tape, tape measure, ordinary bubble level or a rule.

Step 1. Count the amount of materials. To do this, first find out the maximum difference in height of the concrete floor. When checking its status, you need to use long level or a rule. Apply tools around the perimeter of the room, in the center and diagonally, keep the level in a horizontal position. The clearance is determined by eye or with a tape measure. The more lines that are tested, the more accurate the final results.

The minimum thickness of the leveling layer should be within 2-3 mm, add the maximum height of the irregularities to this value. The thickness of the liquid screed should be 2–3 mm greater than the height of the maximum irregularities.

Practical advice. In order to save expensive material, it is recommended to cut down the highest ledges. Preliminary mechanical alignment saves 25-30% of the material.

Step 2 Foundation preparation. The branded strength of the material for the leveling layer should not exceed the strength of the concrete base by more than 50 kg/m2. You can check the strength of the base with an ordinary coin. Draw two perpendicular lines on the concrete with the edge of a coin at an angle of about 30 ° to the surface, if the lines are even and without chips, then the base has sufficient strength for leveling work. The presence of a deep furrow, the appearance of chips at the intersection of the lines indicates that the strength of the base does not meet current standards. In this case, it is impossible to simply level the concrete floor, it is necessary to fill in one more layer according to SNiP. If the floor height does not allow this, then the old layer will have to be completely removed. It is very long and expensive.

Why is foundation strength so important? If the leveling layer is much stronger, then during shrinkage it will tear the weak base, the filling will peel off. There is a way out - to do the alignment with a weak solution. But it can only be used under hard topcoats, this option cannot be used for soft ones.

Removing the old screed is the best solution

Step 3 Clean the concrete floor. You need to remove dust, dirt, all loose elements of the concrete floor. Remember that the cleaner the base, the higher the adhesion of the leveling layer.

Step 4 Seal large gaps a day before leveling. Clean them from the remnants of old material, remove dust and moisten a little. Cracks can be sealed with the same mortar that is used to level the concrete. Clog them tightly, do not leave air pockets. You can level with a trowel or a small spatula.

Step 5 Prime the surface. The primer should be for concrete surfaces only. Due to it, not only the adhesion of the two materials improves, but also the indicators of hydroprotection improve, which is very important for floors in residential premises. It is necessary to prime with a roller, in hard-to-reach places use a paint brush. If the primer is absorbed very quickly, then the operation will have to be repeated. The second layer of primer is applied only after the first has completely dried, the time depends on the brand of material, temperature and humidity in the room.

Step 6 Glue foam polyethylene damper tape around the perimeter of walls, columns, interior partitions. It compensates for thermal expansion, prevents swelling and cracking of the leveling layer.

Important. If the room has a large area, then shrinkage seams should be made. They are located at a distance of about three meters, the lines should be parallel, at the intersection the angle is only a straight line. Damper joints can be made in advance using metal profiles or cut through the next day after pouring the solution. Remember that the second option is accompanied by a lot of noise and dust.

Step 7 Find the horizon level on the wall. It is much easier and faster to do this with a laser level, if you don’t have one, then use a water level. Set the laser level in the center of the room, bring a horizontal beam to the walls. Using a tape measure, mark at the desired height from the concrete floor surface.

Step 8 Screw self-tapping screws into the concrete floor to control the height of the leveling layer. Beacons should be in the corners and along the lines of the room, the step between the rows is approximately one meter. First, fix the dowels against the walls, the height is set according to the marks. Then, between the extreme opposites, pull the rope and install all the other dowels along it. If you do not have strict requirements for the horizontal fill, then you can not install beacons.

Step 9 Prepare a solution. The proportions are indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging, follow his recommendations. Water is always poured into the container first, and then the dry mixture is added. It is advisable to pour the mixture with the mixer on, this will help minimize the number of lumps and allow you to constantly control the consistency of the solution. Mix the material thoroughly and leave it for 5-10 minutes. for insistence. During this time, all the smallest lumps of cement are completely saturated with water. At the same time, chemical curing reactions are started. After infusion, stir the mixture again a little.

Important. Do not allow an overdose of water, this significantly reduces the strength indicators. One more thing. Accurately calculate the volume of the solution with your performance, consider the recommended use time. Keep in mind that once the solidification process has begun, it is impossible to stop it, and adding water to the thickened mass only exacerbates the situation. On average, a freshly prepared mixture should be used within half an hour.

Step 10 Start pouring the solution. Start pouring from the far wall of the room and move towards the exit. Pour the solution from a height of 20-30 cm, avoid large splashes. Move the bucket in a zigzag manner, do not leave large gaps. The width of the strip is approximately 40 cm, you should easily level it with a spatula. Each subsequent portion of the material should overlap the previous one by about five centimeters. Constantly monitor the marks on the wall and the markers from the dowels, if necessary, increase the thickness of the mass or disperse the excess over the free area.

Step 11 As the flooded area expands, roll it with a spiked roller. It removes air bubbles and improves the adhesion of the mass to the concrete base. The length of the needles of the roller should be several millimeters greater than the maximum thickness of the application of the solution. Keep this in mind when purchasing the instrument.

Practical advice. To increase the strength of the leveling layer, it is necessary to prevent direct sunlight from entering the room, close windows and doors to prevent drafts. If this is not done, then some areas will lose moisture much faster than it is necessary for optimal conditions leaks chemical reactions. In these places, the strength of the layer becomes significantly lower than expected.

After complete hardening, the floor surface can be covered with any soft coatings or pasted over with ceramic tiles. But it should be borne in mind that leveling with bulk materials according to the technology described above will always have deviations from horizontal within ± 1.5–2 mm. Is it possible to level concrete floors with perfect precision? It is possible, but for this you should use a different technology for the production of work.

Prices for self-leveling floor compounds

self-levelling floor compounds

Alignment of the concrete floor on the lighthouses

This method takes a little longer, but guarantees a perfectly horizontal surface. The most difficult thing is the creation of lighthouses. For this process, we will give detailed instructions. For work, only a laser level is needed, ordinary water levels cannot achieve such a result.

From the tools you will need a large rule, wide and narrow spatulas, a trowel and a folding wooden meter. Roulette is not good, it is too soft.

Lighthouses can be made from any cement or gypsum mixtures, but we recommend using Fugenfüller putty. It has high physical strength, excellent adhesion to all mixtures made on the basis of cement with or without the addition of innovative fillers. In addition, the hardening time of the putty is approximately 30 minutes, which is quite enough for the manufacture of lighthouses at an average pace. After the preparation of the last lighthouse is completed, it is already possible to work on the first ones.

Another plus of the leveling beacons offered by us is that they make it possible to save building materials. The height of metal profiles is at least one centimeter, which means that the minimum thickness of the fill will be the same. The minimum height of our beacons is equal to the thickness of plastic crosses and is only a few millimeters. The difference in the volume of filling due to the height for large rooms is significant.

Step 1. Set the laser level, check the condition of the floor, determine the minimum thickness of the leveling layer. Remove construction debris from the surface, vacuum it.

Step 2 Prepare putty. Accurately observe the proportions indicated by the manufacturer, do not experiment, they will not lead to anything good.

Step 3. Start installing beacons against the wall, the rule will be used instead of a tape measure to measure the distances between the beacons. Lay out the first pile of putty at a distance of about 15-20 cm from the wall, trim it a little.

Install a plastic cross for ceramic tiles in the center.

Put a meter on it and, taking into account the location of the laser beam, drown it in the solution. Make sure that the cross is lying horizontally, check its position in several places.

Carefully remove excess putty. You can not clean up near the cross, it will then be cut off with a spatula. If you touch the unhardened putty, then you can violate the position of the cross, you will have to redo everything again.

Step 4 Lay a rule on the floor, the distance between the beacons should be 15–20 cm shorter than the length of the rule. In the same way, the width between the lines of beacons will be determined. Install all beacons in the room.

Step 5 After the point beacons have hardened, clean the surface of the crosses from putty, pay attention that it is even. Put the rule on two adjacent points on top, put the solution with a spatula into the gap formed between it and the concrete floor. From the first time it is difficult to guess the thickness, in the future practical experience will appear and the work will go much faster.

Step 6 Rule carefully align the surface of the shaft made. If there are unfilled places, then add a little putty to them and again level the surface with the rule. Remove excess mass immediately in a container, mix the mass periodically.

It is possible to level the floor only after the beacons have completely solidified. It is allowed to use a self-leveling floor mortar, a cement-sand mixture or an adhesive for ceramic tiles. Decide for yourself which one, but there are general recommendations.

1. The cost is the cheapest cement-sand mortar. If you have large areas or a significant thickness of floor leveling, then it is better to use this material. Per cubic meter of solution, significant financial savings are obtained.
2. In terms of physical strength, tile adhesive is in first place. But it is difficult to work with him, you need to have practical experience.
3. Self-leveling floors serve as additional waterproofing, in some cases this property allows you to speed up construction work.

As for time, there is almost no difference. It is not necessary to believe that bulk materials can significantly reduce the time for leveling the floor. An experienced builder will make exactly the same footage with the help of beacons and rules.

Step 7 Pour the mass between the beacons, align it as a rule. The tool must be pulled towards you and at the same time perform small movements to the left and right in amplitude. There are gaps - add the solution and repeat the leveling.

Practical advice. For inexperienced builders, after leveling the rule, small waves may remain on the floor surface. This is not a problem, do not scrape off the frozen mass. It is much better, easier and faster to repeat the leveling of the floor in a direction perpendicular to the first one. No more beacons. Just pour a thin layer of the solution on the floor and, as a rule, pull off the excess, make the mass a little thinner. It will fill all the waves and perfectly level the floor.

Leveling a concrete floor with tile adhesive according to a simplified scheme

This method is great for ceramic tiles, the time of work is significantly reduced, and the quality completely satisfies the tilers. It is rather difficult to level the floor during tiling by changing the thickness of the adhesive; only highly professional tilers can do this. And even then, most of them prefer to level the concrete base on their own and lay tiles on the finished surface, especially if the height difference is 1 cm or more. The end result is time savings.

Step 1. Cut down large mounds, clean the surface from construction dust and debris. If the concrete is very dry, it is recommended to moisten it with plenty of water. Water should not be immediately drawn out of the adhesive, it is needed for the optimal flow of chemical reactions. The lack of the required amount of liquid critically reduces the strength of the adhesive leveling layer.

Step 2 Prepare the tile adhesive. There is a caveat here, the glue should be a little thinner than the manufacturer recommends. It will be difficult to work with thick, in addition, in places with a small thickness, water is quickly absorbed by concrete, which causes a decrease in physical strength indicators. We have already mentioned this. The consistency of the solution should resemble ordinary sour cream or heavy cream and spread a little over the surface.

Step 3 Pour the adhesive in portions onto the floor surface and, as a rule, pull off the excess. The towering sections of concrete serve as beacons, the glue fills only the depressions.

Important. Before starting work, you need to determine in which direction to pull the tool. This can be done after a careful inspection of the concrete floor. You should find the beacons by which it flooded. Then use a bubble level or rule to find out the location of the recesses.

Professional builders during this alignment after the first screed make a few more additional diagonal or circular movements as a rule. At the same time, the pressing force is minimal, the quality of alignment largely depends on practical experience.

If after the first pass the height differences are still large, then draw the rule in a perpendicular direction to the first pass. Once again we warn you, on the second pass, reduce the pressing force. You do not need to achieve ideal performance, differences in height within ± 5 mm for laying tiles are not a problem.

In order to improve the adhesion of the adhesive to concrete, after pouring it is recommended to carefully rub it into the floor with a spatula or trowel. The recesses found after stretching the rule must be immediately covered with glue and re-leveled. The work does not take much time, the only drawback is that tiles can only be laid the next day. But a professional builder does not waste time, there is always a small amount of previously deferred or preparatory work at the facility.

Video - Leveling the concrete floor with bulk mixtures

Updated: 12/25/2018

Replacement floor coverings impossible without high-quality alignment of the draft base. This can be done in different ways: using a wet and dry screed, installing raised floors from plywood, pouring leveling compounds. In most cases, floor leveling can be done independently, because there is nothing complicated here.

Plank flooring can be a reliable base for any floor covering, as long as it does not have serious defects. In the presence of strong deflections, creaking when walking, rotten boards or logs, it makes no sense to repair the floor; but if the irregularities do not exceed 10 mm, the paint has peeled off a little or small gaps have appeared, it will not be difficult to fix the defects.

In the process of work you will need:

• hammer;
• self-tapping screws;
• electric planer;
• drill;
• primer;
• putty on wood;
• putty knife;
• brush or roller;
• level;
• waterproof plywood.

Step 1. Eliminate bumps

All protruding areas on the floor must be removed with a planer; if the elevation is not more than 5 mm, you can use a grinding nozzle and a grinder. Nail heads in these areas should be sunk into the boards by a few millimeters. After processing the boards, the surface is checked with a building level to make sure there are no irregularities.

Step 2. Puttying

Recesses, small cracks and gaps between the boards are sealed with acrylic or PVA-based putty, having previously treated the problem areas with a primer. The putty mixture is well leveled with a spatula, and after drying, sanded with sandpaper.

Table. Putty mixes

Name and packaging	Base for application	Consumption kg/m2	Maximum layer thickness	Drying time	Price rub./pack.
Putty based on PVA, 4 kg	Plaster, concrete	0,450	3 mm	5 minutes	154
Putty stone flower, 25 kg	Concrete, wood, plaster, drywall	1,4	10 mm	24 hours	138
Putty ready Sheetrock, 3.5 l	Any	0,67	2 mm	5 o'clock	350

Step 3. Priming the floor

The puttied and sanded surface is cleaned of dust and a primer is applied with a roller or brush. A small brush is used in the corners and along the walls so that there are no dry areas left. Since wood is a rather porous material, it is recommended to prime the floor twice.

Step 4. Plywood flooring

Plywood sheets are laid out on the floor so that there is a gap of 15-20 mm around the perimeter of the room, and about 8 mm between the sheets themselves. These gaps are necessary to compensate for deformations that occur during temperature and humidity changes. The plywood is fastened with self-tapping screws in increments of 15-20 cm, while each row is laid with seams offset by ½ sheet.

Instead of plywood, you can use gypsum-fiber sheets or chipboard with a thickness of 8 to 14 mm. It is not recommended to use fiberboard for these purposes: under the influence of loads, this material takes the form of a subfloor, revealing the slightest defects. After laying, the plywood is sanded, its horizontalness is checked and dust is removed. This completes the leveling process.

The concrete floor is leveled in several ways - wet and dry screed, dry screed on logs, grinding and pouring self-leveling mixtures. Floor grinding is applied on surfaces with minimal irregularities; this method is the fastest and cheapest, the coating can be laid immediately after the primer has dried. Filling with mixtures is suitable for floors with differences up to 5 mm; wet and dry screeds are designed for the most uneven concrete substrates.

Floor grinding

Step 1. The floor is cleaned of debris and the surface is treated with a grinder or grinder with a nozzle.

Step 2 The horizontalness of the base is checked, all detected cracks and delaminations are cleaned, dust-free, primed and sealed with thick cement mortar. Instead of a solution, you can use polymer putty.

Step 3 When the putty dries, these areas are polished again.

Step 4 Carefully remove dust, prime the surface.

Manufacturer	Description	Consumption	Volume and price
PrimeGround	Deep penetration primer with antiseptic	0.08 -0.2 kg per 1 m2 depending on the absorbency and the treated surface	10 l, 600 rubles
CT 17, Ceresit	Deep penetration primer	0.1-0.2 l/m2 with a single application depending on from absorbent foundation abilities	10 l, 500 rubles
OSNOVIT UNKONT T-51	Soil universal	100-200 mg. per 1m2	10 l, 450 rubles
OSNOVIT DIPKONT T-53	deep penetration primer	50-100 mg per m2	10 l, 500 rubles
Knauf-Tiefengrund	Universal primer	0.07 - 0.1 kg/m2	10 l, 650 rub.

Pouring self-levelling compound

• primer;
• wide brush;
• doctor blade;
• roller with spikes;
• construction mixer;
• dry mix for floors;
• level;
• waterproofing material.

Step 1. Cracks in concrete are expanded along the length, exfoliated areas are cleaned, all defects are sealed with mortar or putty.

Step 2 The highest point of the floor is determined and, using a level gauge, mark the pour line on the walls.

Step 3 The base is dedusted and primed, the primer is applied in two layers.

Step 4 A waterproofing film is spread on the floor, leveled, the edges are led onto the walls, and adjacent strips are overlapped and fixed with construction tape.

Step 5 In the proportions indicated on the package, the dry mixture is diluted with water and stirred with a construction mixer. The mixture begins to harden 15 minutes after cooking, so calculate the amount correctly.

Step 6 The mixture is poured onto the floor in the corner farthest from the doors, a wide spatula is taken and the polymer is leveled along the wall with a wide strip.

Step 7 As soon as the solution is evenly distributed and forms a layer of the required thickness, its surface is rolled with a spiked roller, removing air bubbles.

Each next section of the floor is poured in exactly the same way, but no later than ten minutes after the previous one is poured. The borders of adjacent strips must be leveled especially carefully so that thickenings do not form. A completely flooded floor is covered with a film and left to dry; all this time the room should be free of drafts, fluctuations in temperature and humidity.

Leveling with cement screed

What you need for work:

• water and building level;
• large capacity;
• trowel;
• rule;
• dry gypsum;
• guides;
• waterproofing film;
• reinforcing mesh;
• cement and sand;
• primer.

Step 1. On the walls, with the help of a water level, marks are placed to indicate the floor line.

Step 2 The surface is cleaned and treated with a primer.

Step 3 Lay a film for waterproofing, reinforcing mesh on top. Pieces of plastic are placed under the mesh in several places to raise it by 5-10 mm. There should be a distance of about 1-2 cm between the grid and the wall.

Step 4 Guides are laid out on the floor so that there is an indent of 20 cm from the side walls, at least 1.5 m between the beacons, and the beacons themselves lie in parallel rows.

Step 5 Gypsum mortar is kneaded and beacons are fixed to them. With the help of a level, the horizontalness of the guides is checked, if necessary, a solution is added, or vice versa, the rails are sunk into plaster. The upper edges of all guides must be in the same plane and coincide with the marking line along the perimeter of the room.

Step 6 Take 1 part of cement M400 or M500, 3 parts of sifted sand, mix and dilute with water to the density of sour cream. It should be stirred very intensively so that no lumps remain in the solution. The cement mixture is poured between two rows of guides, and then stretched with a rule, removing excess mortar from the surface of the beacons. If voids have formed, it is necessary to add more solution and again carry out the rule.

Table of cement consumption

The screed must be completed in one day, then the coating will be as monolithic and durable as possible. After a day, the guides should be removed from the screed, the grooves should be sealed with a fresh solution of the same consistency, the surface should be covered with polyethylene. It will take at least 28 days to dry, all this time the concrete must be regularly moistened, closed from direct rays, drafts, and any loads and vibrations must be excluded.

Dry screed

Necessary tools and materials:

• level;
• primer;
• roller;
• lighthouses;
• film for waterproofing;
• rule;
• damper tape;
• sheets of chipboard or GVL;
• expanded clay;
• self-tapping screws.

Step 1. The concrete surface is cleaned, cracks are sealed, two layers of primer are applied.

Step 2 Along the perimeter of the room on the walls mark the level of the finished floor.

Step 3 The base is covered with plastic wrap or roofing felt, leading the edges of the material onto the walls.

Step 4 Install guide rails and fix them with gypsum mortar. Instead of gypsum, cement can be used, but such a solution sets longer. The level controls the location of the beacons relative to the horizontal, adjusting their height by pressing into the solution. The distance between the rails is approximately 1.8 m, the indents from the side walls are at least 20 cm.

Step 5 A damper tape is glued along the marking line. The space between the beacons is covered with expanded clay or other loose filler, with the help of the rule it is leveled and slightly compacted.

Step 6 Sheet material is laid on top of expanded clay, starting from the doorway. Each new row is laid with the obligatory displacement of the seams by half the sheet. It is recommended to mount the rough coating in two layers, fastening them together with glue and self-tapping screws. The top sheets should be positioned so that the bottom seams are completely closed. Coincidence of the lower and upper seams is not allowed!

Step 7 The recesses from the caps of the self-tapping screws are covered with putty on wood, the horizontality and evenness of the rough coating are checked, all the roughness is polished. Finally, the floor is cleaned of dust and primed.

Waterproofing material laid on the floor

Step 3 The bars, pre-treated with an antiseptic primer, are laid out on the floor in parallel rows at a distance of 60 cm. Holes for dowels are drilled at the base and logs are baited. Then, using a level, adjust the location of the beam horizontally, if necessary, placing wedges or removing excess with a planer. It is convenient to mount the logs on special adjustable support bolts with external threads, the use of which significantly speeds up the installation process.

Logs for prefabricated screed

Step 4 A damper tape is fixed along the marking line and the laying of the sheeting is started. Plywood, chipboard, GVL or cement-bonded particle boards are suitable for this. The material is attached to the lags with self-tapping screws; sheets are laid with offset joints in each row. The number of coating layers depends on the thickness of the sheets and the expected loads. If 2 layers are made, the plates are fastened together with self-tapping screws.

Joints between boards should be sealed.

Step 5 In conclusion, the roughness is polished, the joints are rubbed with a putty mixture, and the ground surface is also dusted.

The described methods do not require special skills and extensive construction experience. Here it is important to follow the technology and adhere to the recommended proportions in the manufacture of working mixtures. Properly executed screed will provide a perfectly flat and durable surface, ready for finishing.

Video - Leveling the floor with a mixture of vetonite

Video - Leveling the floor with a leveling mixture

During the overhaul in an apartment or a private house, do-it-yourself floor leveling is most often required. This is especially true of old housing purchased on the secondary market. In this case, the overlap may be filled up, and its level in different rooms will be different. Before, laminate or parquet and other finishing materials, you need to prepare the surface. To level the floor, a huge number of products and methods are used, each of which has advantages and disadvantages.

This method combines several technologies. Wet screed is traditional, it has been used for more than a dozen years. Relatively new ways of leveling the floor by means of dry and semi-dry mixtures are considered not so common.

In this case, two types of mortars are used: concrete and cement-sand mixture. Both are made on the basis of cement, the filler is sand, and the solvent is water, but crushed stone is additionally introduced into the concrete. This material is inexpensive, thereby reducing the cost of the entire solution. But it is not suitable for leveling the floor in residential areas where high demands are placed on the surface. Then use a cement-sand mixture. It costs a little more, but after drying it gives an even coating.

If speak about positive aspects wet screeds, it stands out in particular:

At the same time, there are also disadvantages:

• Long period of drying and curing. Proceed to further finishing work only after 28 days. The coating must be protected from heat and drafts, and also regularly moistened in the first week after pouring.
• The surface may crack due to shrinkage. This is partially leveled by laying damper tape before pouring the floor, but there is still a risk.
• If the screed layer is more than 5 cm, it must be reinforced with special meshes, metal rods, and so on. This is also reflected in the cost of the work.
• Before starting, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing layer so that moisture from the solution does not leak to the neighbors from below.
• The work is quite heavy and dirty. It is necessary to transfer and mix a huge amount of material.

This technology came to us from Europe not so long ago, but has already gained popularity. Manufacturing involves the use of a minimum amount of water and a few plasticizers. These substances provide reliable adhesion of the filler particles. Since the solution turns out to be relatively dry, it is not poured, but poured onto the floor slabs between the installed beacons, then tamped and sanded with special machines.

The advantages of this method:

1. After tamping and grinding, there is practically no shrinkage of the coating, so the risk of cracking is minimized.
2. After drying and curing, a stronger surface is obtained than when pouring with a wet method.
3. The ability to lay large layers of material without reinforcement, which allows you to level the floors with almost any blockage.
4. No need to install reinforcing elements.
5. After 28 days after completion of work, any top coat can be laid.

Disadvantages:

• High price. All processes are carried out with the participation of specialized equipment, the purchase or rental of which costs a significant amount. In addition, materials for leveling floors in this way are relatively expensive. It is also important to take into account the need to hire specialists to maintain equipment.
• Organization of special conditions. Semi-dry compositions are prepared on the street and served in the room through special sleeves. In frost, they constantly freeze, which reduces the feed rate. Therefore, it may be necessary to erect a temporary structure with mobile heating equipment.
• Strengthening time. According to the technology, the period of complete drying and polymerization is 28 days. That is the same as in the case of the wet method.

For the first time, leveling materials of this type were developed by the German company Knauf, now they are produced by many trademarks. The essence of the method is to fill the floor slab with a dry composition: expanded clay, vermiculite, perlite and others. This layer is covered with boards, plywood, gypsum, plasterboard or gypsum fiber boards. Since hollow materials are used for backfilling, additional thermal insulation is not required.

Dry screeds have the following advantages:

1. Immediately after leveling the floors in the apartment, you can proceed to further finishing activities. This distinguishes dry screeds from other types.
2. The work takes place quickly and does not require special equipment, so the laying can be carried out independently.
3. The backfill layer demonstrates high sound insulation performance.

The main disadvantage is low moisture resistance, because of this, it is required to additionally isolate the bulk layer with a membrane. In addition, the backfill and slabs to cover it will cost a little more than the sand-cement composition.

Leveling compounds

These materials have replaced standard mortars based on cement or gypsum. They are manufactured in factories using strict technologies, so they differ high quality. Modern market offers two main types of self-levelling mortars.

Ordinary

The budget version of the material is made on the basis of lime, cement or gypsum with various fillers. Manufacturers supply a variety of mixtures: the simplest and cheapest are used only for leveling floor coverings, the more expensive ones contain insulating materials. The composition necessarily contains plasticizers and components that protect against moisture and frost. They also make the coating more durable and resistant to abrasion.

Industrial floor leveling compounds are of higher quality compared to self-made compounds

Among the positive qualities it is necessary to highlight:

1. Short drying time. In most cases, one week is enough to start further installation.
2. No need for finishing. With the help of these materials, it is possible to carry out the final leveling of the floor, while the surface quality will be high.
3. Versatility. Such coatings are suitable for premises of any purpose.

There are no significant shortcomings. You can note the cost, which is slightly higher than the prices for standard cement-sand mixtures. In addition, the work is quite dirty.

Self leveling compound

Such material is also called self-levelling. The solution in this case should simply be applied in small portions to the surface so that they are in contact. For some time, it will spread over the floor slab. The result is a perfectly even coating that does not require further processing.

It should be noted that it is suitable only for relatively flat grounds. The maximum allowable layer of material is 3.5 cm; with a large blockage, it simply will not work to level the floors. The minimum layer is 3 mm, so self-leveling compounds are often used for arranging the top coat.

Self-levelling screed is used as the last step in the flooring and usually does not need further finishing.

Advantages:

• Ease of filling.
• Short solution drying time.
• Possibility of application together with the "warm floor" system.

The coating also has all the positive properties of concrete screeds, such as strength and wear resistance. Of the shortcomings, only two can be noted: high cost and the inability to eliminate serious defects.

wood materials

The described methods of leveling the floor involve the creation of a cold stone coating. But there is another option - the use of wood. In recent decades, wood and products from it are experiencing another wave of popularity.

Plywood

This material is probably familiar to everyone. It is inexpensive, and you can buy it at almost any hardware or hardware store.

Installation technologies:

1. Glue mounting. In this case, the base is carefully prepared, tile glue is applied to it, and then a sheet of plywood is pressed to the floor. Sometimes dowels and screws are used to increase the reliability of contact.
2. Installation on the logs. Logs are installed on the rough coating with a certain interval, which depends on the thickness of the plywood (the thinner it is, the smaller the step). For fasteners, ordinary wood screws are used.
3. With anchor bolts. This is a relatively new technology that involves the use of a certain type of plywood. First, sheets of plywood with holes are laid out on the floor, the places for future fastenings are marked on the surface. The plates are removed, holes are drilled in the floor with a drill and anchors are mounted in them, the height of which is set according to laser level. After adjustment, the plywood is installed in its place and tightened with nuts. The protruding metal products are cut off with a grinder, and then the second layer of plywood is put on the glue.

Material advantages:

• Wear resistance and strength.
• Environmental friendliness.
• Ease of installation and handling.
• Low cost of material and labor.

Disadvantages:

• Exposure to moisture.
• Flammability.
• Limited sizes.
• The need for further finishing.

Boards

This is a more expensive option for arranging the floor. There are a huge number of models that differ in size and the presence of castle connections. Boards are mounted either on logs or on a prepared base. Compared to plywood, they are more expensive and more difficult to work with. In addition, after installation, the boards need to be sanded.

Nevertheless, the floor of this material will last much longer and it looks more presentable. Usually the boards are impregnated with special primers, and at the end installation work treated with varnish or wax, so the products are not affected by water, mold and insects.

Tile

Leveling the floor with tile adhesive, followed by the installation of tiles, is used quite rarely. You can do without tiles, but then the surface will be subject to abrasion and the formation of a large number dust. The method is not suitable for a strong blockage of the floor; ideally, it is better to level the coating with tiles only in case of minor defects.

The essence of the method is that first the zero level is beaten off, and then, taking into account it, a tile is laid, the height of which is regulated by the amount of glue and pressing. The leveled floor can be operated in a day.

Some flooring methods are suitable for do-it-yourself use, others are only available experienced craftsmen. Before choosing materials for leveling the floor, it is recommended to consult a specialist or take a competent person with you to the store.

Advantages of cement-sand screed:

Among the main disadvantages it is worth highlighting:

• long curing time;
• the need for skills to perform such work or the involvement of professionals.

Stretching starts with zero level definitions. To do this, you can use the building level, with which, at a height of about 1.5 m from the floor, a single line is created, from which the distance to the floor level is measured. You should focus on the minimum distance that will help determine the level of floor height, but it should be borne in mind that the minimum thickness of the screed is 2 cm. along the bottom of the wall, also outline the lines of the future floor level, which will help to make the screed as even as possible.

Next stage - displaying lighthouses, which allow you to achieve the most even surface. They can be used as T-shaped metal guides that are attached to the base adjustable screws. An easier way is to install guides on slides from a thick cement-sand mortar of the required height. The evenness of the lighthouses is constantly checked using the building level. The first is installed at a distance of 20 cm from the wall, the rest are mounted parallel to it in increments of 40-60 cm.

The basis of the self-leveling mixture is cement, but in addition to it, the composition also includes special modifying additives that can increase the plasticity and fluidity of the solution. Some additives make it possible to restrain the appearance of microcracks in the future. Depending on composition self-leveling compounds are divided into:

• high-strength;
• for ;
• fast hardening;
• thin-layer.

In addition, there are self-leveling mixtures on sale, designed not only for rough finishes, but also for the finish, as well as compositions with special properties. There are also compounds for rough leveling, they are designed for surfaces with significant irregularities.

All self-levelling compounds boast a number of advantages:

• simplicity and high speed of work with them;
• freezing speed;
• high strength indicators, so this leveling method is quite applicable for rooms with a high degree patency;
• resistance to temperature changes.

Cons of this method there is little leveling of the floor - these are, rather, its features. Large differences in the level of the floor surface cannot be leveled with a self-leveling floor. You need to work with mixtures very quickly - if you hesitate and allow drying, then a flat surface is unlikely to be achieved.

Working with such mixtures is really easy. They are usually leveled concrete and sand bases. Preparing the mixture consists in diluting the purchased powder with the right amount of water. For mixing, it is better to use a construction mixer or a drill with a nozzle. The composition is prepared in portions, since its properties are lost within 20 minutes. Naturally, before starting work, it is worth carefully preparing the original surface: clean it from dust, repair all cracks, and treat it with a primer.

When the mixture is ready, it is immediately poured onto the floor. The principle of its operation is based on the law of gravity, so you do not have to install beacons and level the solution with them. It is worth remembering that this solution is self-leveling, and not self-spreading, so after pouring it on the floor you need to smooth with a wide spatula or needle roller. It is better to immediately fill the entire floor in the room, but if its area is large, but the solution is applied in strips, acting very quickly and not allowing the edge of the strip to dry out. In this case, only professionals can achieve a perfectly flat surface.

The curing speed depends on the room temperature, humidity and layer thickness. On average, after 6-12 hours you can move on the surface, and after 3-4 days - mount the finish coat.

No. 4. Leveling with gypsum-fiber sheets (GVL)

Leveling with GVL is called a dry screed. This process is much simpler and faster, but the quality of the finished screed is inferior to the monolithic one. A layer of expanded clay is laid under the GVL, which plays. The technology allows the use of other materials that have similar thermal insulation properties.

GVL alignment begins with surface cleaning from dust and dirt, after which it spreads waterproofing material, which can be a polyethylene film. Its strips are laid with an overlap of about 10-15 cm on top of each other and with a 10 cm approach to the walls. It is better to use an edge tape around the perimeter of the room, which is located between the plastic film and the expanded clay layer.

Expanded clay must be carefully compacted and leveled at the intended level. The first plate is mounted in the closest to