How to make bee hives. Hive with your own hands. Photo step by step. Plywood: negative and positive sides

After the decision to breed bees is made, it is necessary to acquire several families and take care of their housing. The swarm is growing rapidly and as a result, new houses are needed. You can buy them, or you can make your own. Before starting work, you need to know all the subtleties of how to make a beehive for bees yourself. There are a lot of hive types and each has its pros and cons. Before you make a hive with your own hands, the drawings are initially carefully studied.

hive types

Making hives with your own hands is not a difficult task. Before you begin, you need to understand that the evidence differs in size, design and material.
By design, the hive is divided into:

• collapsible;
• non-separable.

Today, non-separable hives have become less popular. Most beekeepers use handmade frame evidence for bees.
Frame houses are divided into:

• vertical;
• horizontal.

Horizontal or lounger, is a single-hull structure with a possible increase in different directions. These clues are suitable for inexperienced beekeepers due to their ease of use. There is one drawback - they are large and heavy. The vertical structure consists of several buildings. Plus, it's lightweight and easy to move around.
These two forms have more than one section, they are separated by a partition, which allows you to change the volume in different directions.

The most famous designs

Dadanovsky hive

One of the popular designs that is installed in many apiaries. Received its love because of its ease of use and spaciousness. It can be made with your own hands from wood, and it consists of 12 frames, which can be supplemented if desired. AT summer period and after increasing the family, the hive can be increased with the help of additional buildings.

Alpine

A multi-hull hive built in the likeness of a hollow. Received great popularity due to the similarity with the natural living conditions of wild bees.

This structure is ideal for places with limited space. It has no partitions and holes for ventilation. Fresh air enters the inside of the hive through the notch.

Ruta

This dwelling is suitable for honey plants living in warm regions, because due to regular rearrangements of the buildings, the thermal effect inside the dwelling is disturbed. Ruta contains 6 cases of 10 frames.

Cassette

These hives have become popular due to the emergence of new bee diseases. This design has thin partitions, in connection with this, the swarm creates a microclimate for itself.

Important! Built from natural material are impregnated with wax.

Ideal solution for inexperienced beekeepers. It can be quickly made by hand. They consist of 20 frames and insulated side walls, so the honey plants survive winter cold. Ukrainian lounger is easy to maintain.

Beehive

The hive is thin-walled, the wall thickness is 20 mm. Suitable for warm climate regions. The house has a lot of advantages - the buildings are light, easy to build with your own hands, very practical.

How to make evidence with your own hands step by step

The principle of operation for all types is the same. Before you make a bee hive with your own hands, you need to know exact dimensions. 20 frame horizontal bee hive, step by step instructions:

1. We cut parts from a board four cm wide. These parts will serve as the front and back walls of the hive. Lateral, cut out from a board three cm long.
2. We assemble the structure so that all walls except the front one are in contact with the bottom, and the front one rises from the bottom by one and a half cm. This distance will serve as an entrance from below in the future. The corners are joined in a quarter and fastened with nails.
3. We make the floor from a board 3.5 cm thick. The bottom should look like a shield.
4. Ceilings are built from boards: L-47.8 cm, thickness - 1 cm.
5. We construct a roof. It can be made flat, single-sided or double-sided. This is the only part that can be upholstered with a metal sheet.
6. For the northern regions, the lounger must be insulated on both sides.

Do-it-yourself hive-bed for 20 frames

The sunbed consists of a bottom, a roof and walls. The frame is built from shields. Dimensions of the front part: 87x37. The height of the back wall is 87x34. The length of the side shields is 44x49 cm. The size of the bottom: 84x54.5, thickness 3.5 cm.
You can make bee evidence with your own hands from:

• plywood;
• polystyrene;

Simplicity in construction, with your own hands, is that the foam is inexpensive and reliable. Building from this material is simple and profitable. Before you build a beehive for bees with your own hands, you need to know the dimensions. The size of the future hive can be very diverse, it depends on the number of frames that will be there. To find out the width, you need to multiply the number of frames by 3.75. The length is calculated: the length of the frame plus 1.4. The height is calculated: add the height of the frame to the height of the folds.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. Initially, you should decide on the size and start construction in stages.
2. We put stencils of the future house on the foam sheet.
3. We cut out future walls and clean the corners with sandpaper.
4. To fasten all the details, cut out the quarters and use nails and self-tapping screws to connect.
5. The bottom is made of galvanized sheet.
6. The roof must be flat or pitched. After fastening the roof, it is weighted.
7. Lettki perform standard.

After the construction of the hive is completed, it is necessary to make frames. They consist of: top, bottom and side bars. It is made from dried, natural material.
Dimensions according to GOST:

• top and side - B-2.5 cm
• top rail - H-2 cm;
• lower rail - B - from 1.5 to 2.5 cm;
• H - 1 cm;
• dimensions depend on the type of hive, dimensions according to GOST - 43.5x30.
  (H-height; B-width; L-length)

frame scheme

Frame

The central part of the hive is a four-walled box. It has a bee nest. As the bee family increases, the bodies can be pointed at each other. According to the number of buildings, houses are divided into: single, double-hull and multi-hull (from 3 or more). The wall thickness should be 35 mm. This size will help the swarm to overwinter well. The number of frames in the case can be from 16 to 24.

The parts prepared for the body are connected with nails or PVA glue. A cut is made in the lower part of the front wall: B-4cm, H-1cm. This slot will serve as an entrance and exit for the swarm. Also, at the bottom of the case, a hole is drilled for ventilation. The made case is treated on the outside with a water-repellent material and painted white.

Important! On the case, it is necessary to make notches on the sides, 7mm below the top of the case. They will serve as handles for easy transportation from place to place.

Roof

The roof is made from a board 2 cm thick. From the prepared boards we make a structure in the form of a shield and, to prevent the board from rotting, we cover it with a tin sheet.

Important! When building a hive, a tin sheet is used only to cover the roof, it is not used for wall cladding.

Most beekeepers place a mesh on top of the hive for extra ventilation when transporting bee houses. It is also necessary to isolate the swarm from the outside world.

Bottom

For regions with a cold climate, the bottom is made of two layers of boards with insulating backfill. In the southern regions, insulation is not required, therefore, it is made from a single board.

The bottom is made of bars. At three side bars standard sizes- 57x6.5x3.5. The bars that will be installed in the back are 44.5x6.5x3.5. In each bar, at a distance of 2 cm from the top edge, it is necessary to make puzzles. After all the details are cut out, we proceed to assemble the parts of the structure. The bottom should be assembled with the letter "P". Grooves are needed to install the floor. The arrival board is made from a 5 cm protruding beam, the front bottom beam.
The bottom, for convenience, should be removable and double-sided.

1. Left side wall. 2. Front top bar. 3. Arrival board (notch valve). 4. Inclined board arranged in a notch. 5. Front lower block of the entrance hole. 6. Bar for fixing the bottom mesh. 7. Grid. 8. Middle bar of the back wall. 9. Lower bar of the back wall. 10. Upper bar of the back wall. 11. Flooring bottom. 12. Letkovy insert.

Sample Toolkit

Before you start making a hive, you need to prepare the following tools:

• wooden hammer;
• awl;
• wire;
• pliers;
• nails and screws;
• measuring tape;
• perforator, welding machine and Bulgarian;
• board 32x18, 12 mm plywood;
• insulation;
• a metal sheet;
• PVA, paint, brushes.

Blueprints

Drawings are more convenient to use ready-made.

Due to the large number of frames and housings, it will be difficult for a beginner beekeeper to make a multi-hull hive.

This type of hive is a large, long box. The floor and roof fit snugly into the structure itself. Drawings of the manufactured structure:

When designing a multi-hull house, you must follow a few rules:

1. The bottom can be made by anyone. The removable bottom makes it much easier to care for insects.
2. It is better to make the roof of the hive flat, for more convenient transportation.
3. Frames should be with side bars and have side bars.
4. For a family of bees, you need to make a feeder from a nomadic mesh.
5. The roof is assembled after the assembly of the entire structure and after the stage of insulation.
   The house should be warm, comfortable and airtight. Otherwise, the swarm will get sick, will not endure the winter cold and will not bear honey well.

Video

3 years ago

New!!! Router lift in this table: Part 1 - https://youtu.be/RA4-75ijmWg Part 2 - https://youtu.be/GHqP4Wceu08 April 2015. Continued topic: table for Bosch 1400 ACE hand router. This time I finally made a cabinet for the milling table - a cabinet, a frame, a table base, whatever ..) The most important thing is that the milling table is now independent and does not need workbenches or anything else. I didn’t bother with the pedestal and essentially made a frame, but quite durable and stable for working on a milling table. In the future, you can make walls out of plywood, make shelves. But this is still in question, because how is it possible that I will make a system for lifting the router (cutter over the surface of the table) using a car jack (as many have already done), for this I will need full access under the table top, from all sides of the cabinet. So for now, it's just a framework. I also made a switch with a socket for my milling table and now it has become very convenient to use, and at the same time I didn’t have to cut the plug at the device, because. it will be needed more than once as a manual router 🙂 I made a bracket for fixing the table in a raised position in order to adjust the reach with both hands or, in fact, to replace the cutter itself. It's not over yet. There will be videos about clamps for the milling table, guides, side carriage and I don’t even know what yet ... The topic is rich 😉 First part: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1CiOU66Sers Second part: http:// www.youtube.com/watch?v=rF7BVRbK4hE THANK YOU FOR WATCHING AND SUBSCRIBE!!! http://maximkozlov.ru

PHOTO HIVES KALINKA LLC

Good day, dear visitors!

This section of our website is a photo gallery where you can see photos of the entire range of Kalinka LLC hives “without embellishment”, that is, photos are posted here without any processing, so that each of you, even without being able to come and look at the hives “live”, however, could see the product “as it is”. We have nothing to hide, so we hope you enjoy our photo tour.

Below are photos of Dadan-Blatt hives. We produce them in two types: for 10 frames and for 12. You can install as many cases as you need. Convenient recesses are made on the sides of the hulls in order to make it easier to remove them. On each hull, entrance barriers for 4 functions are installed on the entrances.

Do-it-yourself beehive

They are included in the basic package of hives. In one of the photos, there are canvases on the hive, which can also be bought from us at the enterprise.

Here is a retractable anti-varroatous bottom with a special mesh can be installed on any of the hives. It is not included in the basic package of hives, but is installed at the request of the buyer. On the site in the article "Antivarroatous bottom" you can see a video that tells about its structure and how and for what it is used.

Photo of the hives of Kalinka LLP at the agro-industrial exhibition-fair.

If you are interested in our products, you can always call and place an order. The beehives of Kalinka LLP can be purchased not only in branded stores in Moscow and St. Petersburg, but also be ordered to any city in Russia with delivery to the apiary.

PS: If you need a small number of hives, then in order to reduce delivery costs, you can team up with other beekeepers from neighboring apiaries and make a single order, then the delivery cost is about 200-300 rubles per hive.

Interesting on the topic:

Benefits of Kalinka LLP hives (video)

Prices for hives and beekeeping equipment

Hive-lounger. How to build it with your own hands

A bee hive is an artificially made housing for bees. For a long time, bees lived on tree branches, in crowns, hollows, in rock crevices, in pits and stumps, under the roofs of houses. Later, people began to tame honey plants, sitting them in non-separable hives - sapets, hollows. Well, now bee colonies live in frame hives, which you can buy in a special store or make yourself if you have the time, desire and necessary tools.

Today we will devote our article to how to make a bee hive? This question is asked by all beginner beekeepers. First you need to take a closer look at this design in order to understand what you have to deal with. Nowadays, the hives of Dadan Blat and Langstroth-ruth are the most common with some modifications and changes. Beekeepers have heard of another name - the Alpine hive or Roger Delon's hive in another way (with a reduced frame). There are other bee houses - Lapunov and Ozerov with an enlarged frame, hives with glass, and some still use old decks.

Any hive consists of the following parts:

Frame- hive walls. The cases are different in size, in the hives there is one case or several, depending on the type of construction. Each case on the inside has parallel grooves for the hangers of the frames. In some types of hives, the grooves for the frames are placed in a different way, but for self-manufacturing they are complex. In addition to the grooves, the body may have tapholes. If the hive has a removable bottom, then the notch is made above the middle, round, with a diameter of 25 to 35 mm. If the bottom is nailed to the lower body, then a slotted notch is made with a width of 100 mm and a length of 10-20 mm. All these indicators depend on what kind of hive is made and what the beekeeper wants to make.

Bottom- there is an inseparable and detachable. It is better to create hives with the last type of bottom, because in this case it will be easier to take care of the bees: you can quickly clean the nest, it is easy to work with the bodies without touching the frames (this is an important part of many methods), and if necessary, carry out the necessary treatment of bee colonies. The integral bottom is simply nailed to the bottom of the body so that it protrudes slightly from the front edges - the formed ledge serves as a landing area for the bees.

The shops- these are hive bodies shortened in height.

We make a beehive for bees with our own hands

They are an optional part of the design and are used to store honey during honey collection to facilitate the work of the beekeeper. In addition, they are very convenient to use in weak families that do not collect large stocks of honey.

liner- this is a store, but without recesses for frames. It is placed between the upper body and the roof. It helps to improve the living conditions of bees during migration, you can put a feeder in it or place insulating material. Some beekeepers put it under the lower body, thereby creating a space under the frame, which has a beneficial effect on the microclimate of the nest during wintering.

Roof- made of strapping (sometimes beekeepers make ventilation holes in it) and a flat shield (plywood, boards). Top with a thin sheet of iron. It is put on the body (liner, magazine) in a quarter or in a hood.

Framework- we will talk about them a little later. One has only to say that the frames come in different sizes, depending on the type of hive.

Drawings for hives

All frame hives are similar in design, but vary in size. The dimensions of the hive primarily depend on the number of frames that will be used in this hive, their size. The size of the bee house also depends on the thickness of the walls. As a rule, for hives with a frame of 300, a board 40 wide is used, with a frame of 230 - 30. According to GOST, the recommended board thickness per frame is 300 - 37 mm, since wood is processed from standard 40 mm to 37. There are designs with double walls, and others drawings with different dimensions are sufficient. It happens because the regions of growing bees are different, they have different conditions, and each beekeeper has his own opinion on the care of families, which he adheres to. So it is difficult to name any specific dimensions.

To remember from the whole mass of information about drawings for hives, you need the following:

1. the width of the hive directly depends on the number of frames and is equal to the number of frames multiplied by 37.5 mm;
2. the length of the hive directly depends on the length of the frame itself (from the left side bar to the right, including the dimensions of the bars themselves). It is equal to "frame length plus 14 mm";
3. the height of the hive is determined by the formula "the height of the folds plus the height of the frame."

Everything else in the construction of hives is done at the request of the beekeeper. Of course, each species has its own drawings and rules. Consider, for example, the fairly well-known structure "beehive-lounger". This bee house is a frame horizontal hive. It resembles an elongated box with a nailed bottom and a removable roof. During the period of family growth, frames are added to the side of this structure in which the uterus lays eggs. This hive has stores that are used during honey collection. The lounger allows you to keep next to the main family and a backup, with a spare queen. The hive-lounger for 16 and 20 frames has become widespread. The dimensions of the house with 16 frames are 615x450x330 mm. A 35 mm bottom shield protrudes beyond the front wall. The extension is constructed with a height of 165 mm, the wall thickness is the same as that of the walls of the body, there are also 16 frames in it. The dimensions of the hive lounger for 20 frames are 810x450x330. If you think that this type of bee house suits you, then we present you a drawing of a lounger hive, which shows all its most common sizes:

How to make hive frames

And now it’s worth talking about the frames, or rather about their manufacture, because if you made the hive yourself, then you will make the frames very quickly. The hive frame is considered one of the most important elements in a bee home. Its standard dimensions for a double-hull hive are 435x300 mm. They need to be made from linden, as it does not crack when the structure is hammered together. But this material has one drawback - it absorbs moisture and increases in weight. For this reason, experienced beekeepers advise making frames from spruce wood, the main condition is that it should not be resinous.

When creating a frame, it is worth making sure that there is a distance of no more than 9 mm between the bottom and the lower bars of the frames. Such a passage for bees is the most optimal. If it is larger, then insects will begin to build it up. Between the wall of the hive and the side bar should be from 8 to 10 mm. If the distance is less, then the bees will fill it with propolis, if more, they will build up honeycombs. If all dimensions are met exactly, then it will be easy to get the frames.

For more information about creating a frame, see the video below:

I would like to note that in the created bee house it is necessary to maintain conditions that are most optimal for the bees in your region. The hive is not just a dwelling or a means of production. It's all together - a house and a bee factory that supplies some of the most useful products in the world.

Hive device for bees

Every beekeeper knows that wild bees live in natural hives: a hollow tree, under a roof, etc. But if you decide to engage in beekeeping, then you will need to make a lot of effort in order to equip bee housing. The arrangement of a beehive for bees begins with the collection useful information about the types of hives, the materials that are necessary for construction, from approximate drawings.

Hive device for bees

What types are hives?

Before you start building a beehive, you need to understand what kind of design you want to get as a result. The fact is that today the most practical types are considered to be the following:

1. The hive is horizontal. The beekeeper can expand it by setting up additional buildings.
2. The vertical hive is a 2-3-tier structure, on each tier of which there are about 10 frames. You can expand the vertical structure by adding new tiers.

Also, the hives are conditionally divided by the types of frames, because the frames are the main element of the whole structure. Depending on the width and height, they are square, narrow-high or, conversely, low-wide.

What material is best to make a hive?

The material for the hive is a very important topic. The bees may simply not like their house, and the beekeeper will be forced to redo it.

There are a huge number of products on the market today various materials, but not all of them are suitable for the hive

Wood is a win-win. It is better to purchase coniferous wood, such as pine, spruce, fir, etc. Before working, make sure that there is no rot or mold on the wood. Note that the tree has one minus, this is the increased humidity inside the hive.

To equip a bee house, choose boards 5 mm larger than required by the design. They will shrink in size as you grind. The boards need to be carefully planed so that there are no chips, roughness, protruding chips on them.

Plywood is another great option. It is an environmentally friendly material that is durable. Beekeepers say that plywood, in its characteristics, surpasses even wood in terms of thermal insulation.

To make a beehive from plywood, it is necessary to cover its outer walls with a layer of acrylic varnish, and put polystyrene foam inside the house. By the way, hives are also made from the latter, which are characterized by fragility and fragility.

It is possible to make such a plywood hive only according to the drawing, it will become optimal for the comfortable life of insects.

Polycarbonate is a hard plastic that cannot be affected by climatic conditions. Differs in stability, durability, does not suffer from decay, a fungus, well washes.

Polyurethane foam can act as a heater, which does not rot and is not covered with a fungus, mice do not gnaw it.

Do-it-yourself hive: video, drawings, sizes of frames and hives

Its main disadvantage is combustibility, and when insulating the hive with polyurethane foam, be sure to design a small ventilation system.

Bee hive device

The hive consists of the following elements fastened into a single structure:

• bottom (wood or mesh) and ceiling, front, rear and side walls;
• liner, insulating pillow, canvas;
• planks and linings for them, folds;
• gable roof and roof trim;
• ventilation hole;
• notch, arrival board, nesting frame;
• waste tray or tray;
• glass for observing bees and a board that closes the glass if necessary.

How the hive works: dimensions and additional details

Proper sizing is fundamental to building the right hive. The beekeeper involved in the construction must observe the dimensions with great accuracy. We bring universal sizes for all hives you can base on:

• The distance between adjacent frames is 3.75 cm.
• Streets subject to a honeycomb thickness of 25 cm - 1.25 cm.
• During the installation of the second case or additional magazine, a gap of 1 cm is made between the upper bars and the lower bars.
• The space between the front and rear walls and the side rails should be 0.75 cm.
• The space between the bottom bar and the bottom is 2 cm.

Deviation from dimensions is allowed within 0.1 cm. If there is a large discrepancy with the dimensions, other structural elements will have to be adjusted, and the hive will no longer be composed of equivalent parts that you can replace in the future.

How to assemble a hive: instructions

So, all the elements are ready, and the drawings are drawn. It's time to collect the hive. Start assembly by preparing four walls, machined and cut in accordance with the drawing. One of the front walls is connected to two side walls, after which the last wall is fixed. After that, the side frames are attached to the side panels of the hive, then the wood or mesh floor is attached. And on the front wall you need to cut a notch.

The design is knocked together, set on the floor and a pillow with a canvas is reported, covering everything with a lid. Pillow and canvas are necessary for temperature control. The bottom of the hive is best made of galvanized material, it should be removable, which will facilitate the transportation of the hives. And for the manufacture of frames, choose a good, but not resinous tree.

Do not forget about the feeder, which is most often made from nomadic netting. In winter, at low temperatures, the hives are heated with electrical appliances with a power of not more than 10 watts.

Summing up, it is worth saying that the independent production of hives requires great attention and strict adherence to the drawing. It must be remembered that the hive must be comfortable for insects in all respects: not hot and not cold, without chemical odors that some synthetic materials emit, with a normal ventilation system.

http://medovoemesto.ru

The honey bee spends a lot of energy on repulsing the attacks of enemies, but it is not always possible to repel the attack. AT this case the enemy, a red mite of the species Verroa, clung to the thoracic region of the drone.

• KEY FACTS
• Name: honey bee (Apis mellifera)
• Range: Europe, Western Asia and Africa; in other regions of Asia, as well as in America and Australia, it is distributed by humans.
• Number in a typical hive: 10,000 to 60,000 worker bees; uterus; at certain times of the year a small number of drones and young queens.
• Stages of development: egg, larva, pupa, adult.
• Lifespan: 21 days of development from egg to adult; In summer, the worker bee lives for about 30 days.

The bee colony has a strict social organization, in which all the work in the hive, such as building honeycombs for the queen's eggs and food storage, or collecting nectar, is done by worker bees.

There are about 20,000 species of bees, but only about 800 of them are truly social (eusocial). Striking details of the organization of their community (family) can be learned by observing the life of a honey bee, or domestic bee (Apis mellifera).

History of bees

The honey bee is an evolutionarily successful social insect that originally lived in Europe, Africa, and Western Asia. Wild honey bees make their nests in natural cavities and shelters: hollows of old trees, depressions in the ground or rock crevices. Man provides them with artificial housing - beehives.

When nesting in a natural cavity, honey bees build double-sided sheets of wax from wax that are attached to the ceiling of the cavity. The hexagonal cells that form the honeycomb are made from wax secreted by the glands located on the abdomen of the bee.

A queen checking a cell before placing one of the 2,000 eggs she lays in a day. The sex of the future bee depends on which egg the queen has laid.

The distance between adjacent sheets of combs (the so-called "bee space") is usually from 6 to 9 mm - quite enough for the movement of bees on their surface. Beekeepers try to recreate similar conditions in the hive by installing removable frames in it, the distance between which is also equal to the bee space. The base of the honeycombs is attached to the frame, on which the bees build cells.

Breeding

Honeybees use cells of honeycombs for two purposes: as containers for storing food (honey and plant pollen) and for breeding offspring (brood). In nature, bees tend to fill the honeycomb cells in a certain order. Cells with eggs are located in the center and at the bottom of the combs, and honey is stored in the upper and side cells. Cells with pollen are located between cells with eggs and honey. In the hive, however, the combs in the lower boxes contain mostly brood, while the upper boxes contain only honey and pollen. This distribution of the contents of the cells is due to the fact that the lower and upper sections of the hive are separated by a wire mesh, called the queen limiter. Its cells are large enough to allow the worker bee to pass through, but too small for the queen to pass through. As a result, the queen is confined to the lower section of the hive, where she lays her eggs, and the beekeeper can remove the top boxes of honey-filled combs without disturbing the queen. In hives, honey bees live in the same highly organized community as in nature. Most of the bees are worker bees, females with underdeveloped genitals, in some hives there are up to 60-80 thousand of them. The uterus is also a female, but with fully formed genitals. Its sole function is to lay eggs, all worker bees come from eggs laid by a single queen. In spring and summer, the queen also lays a small number of eggs, from which males, called drones, emerge. The drones don't work, and they don't have the sting that the worker bees use to protect the hive from enemies. Their only purpose is to mate with the queens, after which they die.

Queen's life

The queen of honey bees lives for about 5 years, during this time from spring to autumn she lays about 2000 eggs every day. When a colony of wild honey bees grows too large in spring, it divides into two parts (swarming). At the same time, the queen leaves the nest and flies away with about 70 percent of the worker bees.

When the weather permits, the worker bee can move up to 11 km from the hive every day in search of nectar and pollen. This work is usually done by older bees, whose life is already coming to an end.

The worker bees left in the nest grow a new queen, after which the colony begins to grow very quickly. However, bees bred in hives do not create swarms. With an increase in their number, beekeepers add additional sections to the hives, thereby reducing the overcrowding of the hive.

Unlike the queen, worker bees live for about 30 days in summer and up to 6 months in winter. The worker bee develops in a closed cell in 21 days, passing through three stages: egg (about three days), larva (about seven days) and pupa (11 days). On the last day of development, the bee, with the help of its mandibles, destroys the wax cover that closed the cell, and immediately begins to work. According to her age, she performs various tasks. A young bee spends almost all the time in the hive: first, it cleans the cells of the combs, then takes care of the offspring, feeds the queen, and builds or repairs the cells.

Somewhat later, she moves closer to the exit from the hive and works as a food acceptor, taking nectar and pollen from foraging bees returning to the hive, or becomes a guard bee, protecting the hive from strangers. Finally, at the last stage of her life, she becomes a forager, flying away in search of water, nectar and pollen at a distance of up to 11 km from the hive. Guarding the hive and foraging for food are the most dangerous jobs, so they are performed by "elderly" bees approaching the end of their lives.

Honey bee worker bees dipping their heads into honeycomb cells. Their name speaks of their functions in the family. They do all the work both inside and outside the hive: rearing the young, collecting nectar and pollen, cleaning and protecting the hive.

Labor and conflicts

Life in the hive is well organized, with each individual primarily taking care of the family.

In good weather, forager bees fly away from the hive for water, nectar and pollen. If they find nectar-rich patches of untouched flowers, they take the nectar and return to the hive without delay to report the find to their female relatives remaining in the hive and thus increase the number of foragers in that rich patch. If you have the opportunity to observe the surface of the combs, for example, through the glass wall of the research hive, then you can see how the returned bee, surrounded by "spectators", moves up and down the combs, describing the eight, the so-called. "wagging dance". With this dance, one of the most complex forms of communication in the animal world, the bee informs the audience about the direction in which the rich source of food is located, and about the distance to it. Such information is especially important when the stocks of poverty in the family are small.

Beehives in Bavaria (Germany). When such a structure overflows with bees, the beekeeper adds additional sections, thereby preventing the swarm from flying out.

Gatherers can become aware of depleted food supplies. The “unloading” by the receiving bees of the pickers returning from distant feeders does not take much time. On the other hand, if a forager has to wait for a long time for the help of the receivers, this indicates the simultaneous return of many foragers with a large amount of nectar, i.e., an increase in food supplies. In spring and summer, any food that is not consumed immediately is stored in honeycombs. It will be needed in winter or when bad weather will not allow you to collect nectar. Over time, the nectar stored in the comb turns into honey.

Pheromones

Another well-known example of the collective action of bees is the defense of the hive. Whenever a threat arises, guard bees release alarm substances or pheromones, catching which, the defenders gather at the entrance, and each tries to hit the enemy. This is undoubtedly selfless behavior, because, having stinged the enemy, the bee loses its sting and dies. The poison found on the sting of the bee also contains an alarm pheromone that attracts new defenders to the battlefield and stimulates them to attack the enemy.

Worker bees on honeycombs with a queen cell. In the initial period of life, worker bees spend a lot of time caring for the queen and feeding her, as well as building new and repairing old cells.

However, cooperation does not always occur in perfect harmony in a honey bee hive. It is often believed that only the queen can lay eggs in honey bees, but this is not true. Although worker bees cannot mate, they retain a functioning ovary and can lay unfertilized eggs that develop into males. Why do they raise the mother's offspring, and not their own? Ironically, it is not the queen that prevents the worker bees from reproducing; this is done by all the other worker bees.

This moment in the life of the bee colony is called the "working police", it consists in eating by the bees any eggs of their sisters they find. The bees can easily determine which eggs to destroy because the queen marks the eggs she lays with her pheromone.

Do-it-yourself hive for bees: how to make, drawings

Such cannibalism is practiced due to the fact that all the worker bees of the hive have one mother, but during the mating flight she mates with about 30 drones, i.e. the bees have quite a few fathers. This means that any bee is genetically closer to its siblings produced by the queen than to any "nephew" developed from the egg of another worker bee. As a result, each bee prevents the others from breeding and cooperates with them in caring for the queen's offspring. By doing this, honey bees ensure that as many of their own genes as possible are passed on to the next generation of the family.

• Did you know?
• Before starting to lay eggs, the honey bee queen goes on a nuptial flight, and then stores about 5 million spermatozoa, using them all her life. Each time, laying an egg, the uterus determines the sex and type of the future bee. If a worker bee is to develop from an egg, the queen fertilizes it with one of the spermatozoa stored in her body and lays it in a normal-sized cell. If a drone is to develop from an egg, the egg is not fertilized and is deposited in a larger cell. The eggs from which new queens are to form are fertilized and look exactly like the eggs from which worker bees develop, but they are laid in special cells - queen cells, shaped like an acorn, and the larva is fed a special food called royal jelly for the entire period of its development.
• The expression “to work like a bee” is connected with our idea that bees are tireless workers, carrying honey to the hive “tirelessly”. This view is erroneous: each bee rests, remaining on the comb, 80% of the working day.
• To survive the winter months, a honey bee colony needs to stock up on 20 kg of honey.

A good hive must meet the following requirements:

1. The hive should be warm and well protect the bees from sudden changes in temperature, from rain and dampness. In summer, the walls of the hive should not get very warm. If the hive is single-walled - up to its thickness of -30 mm. Double-walled hives - the space between the walls is clogged with moss - cuckoo flax.

2. The hive should be spacious enough to accommodate the brood of a good queen, as well as storing honey and bee bread in it. At the same time, it should be arranged in such a way that, depending on the season, its volume could be increased or decreased, ventilation could be regulated.

In winter, the nest is smaller, the number of frames is reduced. The remaining space should not be empty, it should be filled with insulating pillows and separated by a special diaphragm.

3. The hive should be convenient for work, easily and freely disassembled into its component parts and reassembled, so that during inspections it does not press and does not disturb the bees much.

4. All parts of each hive should be exactly the same in size. This will facilitate the setting up of shops, the rearrangement of frames (or cases), the relocation of families and a number of other works.

Frames of the same size give the beekeeper the opportunity to: 1) if necessary, rearrange the frame from one hive to another; 2) apply the same methods of caring for bees in all families; 3) have beekeeping equipment designed for a frame of a certain standard. The same hives in the apiary will simplify the care of bees and reduce labor and time costs.

6. Hives should have in their design special devices for combating ticks. This is either a removable bottom or a special grid with a pallet.

In Russia, the most common hives of the following designs:
1) single-hull hive or Dadan-Blatt hive, consisting of a bottom, a nest box containing 12 frames, a width of 435 mm and height in 300 mm, one or two stores accommodating 12 frames half the height; often use two buildings with shops;
2) hive-lounger, consisting of one large body, accommodating 16,20 or 24 frames are also sized 435×300 mm (often frames are made in 300 mm wide and 435 mm high - Ukrainian lounger);
3) multi-hull hive, consisting of three to five interchangeable housings of the same size, on 8-10 frames, size 435×230 mm.

Components of the hive

The hive should consist of one or more buildings, a magazine, a roof lining, ceiling boards (or canvas), a bottom, an insert board (diaphragm), a landing board, a stand and nest and magazine frames.

Framework subdivided into nesting and shop. In typical hives, nesting and magazine frames have standard sizes and differ from each other only in height. The height of the nesting frames of single-hull, double-hull hives and sunbeds is -300 mm, magazine frames -145 mm. The height of the frames of multi-hull hives is 230 mm.

The width of the upper bars and lower bars of the frame is 25 mm, the thickness of the side bars is 8 mm, and the bottom bars are 10 mm. The thickness of the upper bar is 20-22 mm. The side bars of the nesting frames in the upper part are expanded to 37 mm, which ensures the normal size of the street and good stability of the frames when transporting bee colonies.


The width of the frame is determined by the following circumstances: the length of the comb is 12 mm, equal to the length of the worker bee. 1 mm - wax thickness.

How to make a Dadan hive with your own hands

12+1+12=25 .

Frame- the main part of the hive, where the nest of bees is located. Hives with two or more bodies are common. The case has the form of a box without a bottom and a roof, in the upper edge of the front and rear walls of which a fold is selected for hanging the nesting frames. In addition to the frames, the body of many hive designs includes diaphragms and a hive partition. On the front wall of the case in its upper part is made notch for entry and exit of bees. In shape, it can be round or in the form of a slit.

If the frames in the hive are placed perpendicular to the entrance - cold drift, if parallel - warm drift.

Bottom hulls, depending on the design, can be nailed to the hull or detachable. It consists of a shield knocked down from boards and a strapping of beams. The front bar has a slot - a lower notch 20 mm high, which is regulated by special liners. At the lower entrance to the front bar of the bottom strapping is attached arrival board for bees.

Roof worn over the body or magazine extension and protects the nest of bees from rain, heat and cold, enemies and pests. The roofs of most typical hives are flat in construction.

liner designed to accommodate the feeder and create a free space above the frame.

Magazine or magazine extension. In height, it is usually half the height of the buildings. The magazine extension fits magazine frames. It is used to increase the volume of the nest, mainly during honey collection. Depending on the size of the honey collection, one or more extensions are placed on the hive.

Shop extensions) are closed from above with a solid ceiling or boards up to 10 mm thick. Often used for this purpose canvases made of loose fabric (burlap).

Diaphragm(separating board). It consists of an upper bar, two side bars and a shield (thin board) fixed between them, 15 mm thick. In height and length, the diaphragm must correspond to the internal dimensions of the housing. D diaphragms necessary to reduce and insulate the nest.

Hive dimensions

In the hives of all systems, the following mandatory dimensions of the "hive rule" are observed: the angles must be strictly 90 0 (from dry wood - fir, aspen); the overframe space (the distance between the top plank and the ceiling planks) should be 10 mm; subframe space (distance between the bottom and the bottom bar of the frame) - 15-20 mm; side space(distance between the side bars of the frame and the front in relation to the notch and the back walls of the hive) - 7.5-8mm; distance between frames - 12 mm; the distance between the central axes of the frames of neighboring cells is 37-38 mm. If there are several bodies in the hive, then the gap between the upper and lower frames should be 10 mm. If it is less, they will cover it with propolis, more - with honeycombs.

How the hives are calculated (standard 12 frame hive)

12+25/2+25/2=37
+0.5 for propolis = 37.5
12 - frame hive 37.5*12=450

When examining and working with bees, the beekeeper needs: a net to protect the face from bee attacks, a smoker, a beekeeper's chisel (for tearing off the frames), a brush for sweeping bees, a box for tools and rotten, a box for transferring honeycombs, a swarm (closed sieve), feeders for feeding bees, pillows for warming the hive - top and side (stuffed with moss); cages for queens (Titova non-metallic), a dividing grid for isolating the uterus (Hoffmann), a board-pattern for waxing honeycombs, a knife for cutting zabrus (lids on sealed combs), a honey extractor (due to centrifugal force - sealed honeycombs with honey are first printed using a special beekeeping knife, then inserted into the honey extractor and rotated), wax melter (metal pan).


Device 12-frame hive with two magazines (dimensions in mm):

1. body, 2 - nest frame (cross section), 3 diaphragm, 4 - magazine, 5 - magazine frame (cross section), 6 - liner, 7 - roof, 8 - upper entrance, 9 lower entrance

Section of the hive body:

1. - frame, 2 - over-frame space -10 mm; 3 - between the frame and the back of the hive 7.5 -8 mm; 4 - bottom of the hive, 5 - subframe space 15-20 mm; 6- between the frame and the front wall of the hive - 8 mm.

Nesting frame (dimensions in mm)

Types of hives: a - single-hull 12-frame with a magazine;
b - two-hull.

Hive-lounger

Multi-hull (four-hull) hive

When deciding to go into beekeeping, you will inevitably be faced with the choice of a hive system. Well, having decided, you need to decide whether to purchase ready-made dwellings for bees or make them yourself. Self-production will significantly increase the profitability of beekeeping. You need to consider before you make beehives for bees with your own hands - the drawings are of paramount importance.

Hive systems and their assembly schemes

Since the invention by the Ukrainian beekeeper Petr Ivanovich Prokopovich of the first collapsible frame hive in 1814, many different modifications have been invented. We will look at the most successful hive systems that have received the greatest distribution. It should be noted that there is no universal solution. Each beekeeper who selects hives takes into account the following factors:

Today, using the capabilities of the Internet makes it easier to make beehives with your own hands. Dimensions, drawings, online videos are publicly available within the World Wide Web. You can find everything: what the hive should consist of, characteristics, what devices are used for manufacturing, production step by step.

Dadan-Blatt's invention

The hive was created by a Frenchman, in the USA by Charles Dadant. After his death, the project was improved by the Swiss Blatt. The classic design has one nest box with internal dimensions of 450 mm wide and 450 mm deep - a Dadan hive for 12 frames. The drawing is shown below.

Above the nest compartment there are two extensions for a half-frame, then a liner and a roof.

The frame of the lower case is 300 mm high and 435 mm wide (without hangers). Such dimensions allow the bees to fit the brood with a strip of honey on top. This is important for the life of the family during the free periods. The lower Dadanovsky building is able to accommodate the nest of a strong family. It contains enough food for wintering outside.

Sunbeds

The 300th frame is popular in the post-Soviet space. In addition to the ten and twelve frame hives of Dadan, it is used in common beds for 16, 20 or 24 frames. In these structures, the development of the bee community occurs in a horizontal plane. To protect empty space or unoccupied frames, a front board is used, which is rearranged depending on the strength of the family.

The figure shows a twenty frame version of the design.

An identical view has a sun lounger hive for 24 frames. The drawing, the dimensions of which will be increased by 137 mm in length, will fit 4 frames more.

As mentioned above, the 300th frame holds enough food for wintering, however, it is not ideal for mid-latitudes. When the club reaches the top bar, the bees are stressed. Movement along the frames in winter is a necessary measure.

An interesting solution was the Ukrainian lounger. In it, the frame described above is inverted vertically, that is, 300 mm wide and 435 mm high. The narrow high format allows the bee club to move like in a hollow tree trunk - from the bottom up (see diagram).

The most capacious is the Vladimir sunbed. It is designed for 32 frames 435 by 450 mm. The walls of the hive are framed - two sheets of plywood with polystyrene foam between them. Large volume allows you to keep several families at the same time through blind partitions, with the possibility of uniting for the main bribe.

The advantages of all sunbeds include:

• accessibility of the nest for the beekeeper;
• no need for substitution of cases;
• ideal for a beginner or an amateur who observes all the processes in a bee colony;
• suitable for operations with frequent re-formatting of the socket (obtaining royal jelly, withdrawal of queens).

The main disadvantages are the bulky design, the need for time-consuming framework work. In this regard, these hives are not suitable for commercial beekeeping, more for the household.

Hive Ruta

The modern technology of industrial keeping of bees is not possible without the use of a multi-hull hive. The most common system in the world is the root system..

The frame differs from Dadanov's in height, it is 230 mm. This size allowed to reduce the weight of the filled body. This solved the problem of the beekeeper's labor costs for working with each individual frame. There was an opportunity to make substitution or a fence of the whole case. There are enough of them 4 pieces per season, but you can not be limited to this number. The bottom is more practical to make removable. The design is suitable for transportation during roaming.

Disadvantages of the hive: there is little space for food for wintering in one building. The solution is substitution of subsidies or wintering on two buildings.

Some beekeepers, for example, A.N. Kuznetsov, create universal hives that allow you to work with the Dadan and Rut frames.

Cebro uses a 300 frame in his multi-hull hive, but his design is very bulky and completely stationary.

Horned

The bee house got its peculiar name for the pins protruding from the body. The protrusions are needed to fix the structure. This type includes the palyvoda hive, in which all elements are simplified as much as possible. Minimal costs required homemade production structures called horned beehive. The drawings are shown below.

Making such a hive is quite simple..

One case contains 8 frames 145 mm high. A metal mesh is also used at the bottom of the hole for the entrance to the full width. The design allows, if necessary, to install it on top of the hive.

The advantages of the system include light weight, possibility of transportation, low budget for production. However, we note that thin walls will require measures for warming during wintering. At the peak of the development of colonies, the hive becomes too high.

Cassette

The ideal solution for beekeepers with limited mobility. The cassette hive eliminates the need to rearrange heavy hulls. They are inside the column. Enclosures designed in such a way that they can be pulled out along the rails onto a mobile stand.

Frameless hives

There is a category of beekeepers who have bees without commercial intent. Some of them consider any interference in the life of a bee colony harmful. And also there are people who want to keep bees, but do not plan to delve into the intricacies of beekeeping.

For these categories, a frameless hive is most suitable. The content of bees in such dwellings is as close as possible to natural conditions. The beekeeper does not need deep knowledge of the biology of the bee colony.

Varre

In hives of this type, wooden slats serve as the basis for honeycombs. As the author Emile Varre said, his system does not require the use of frames, wire, foundation. Visits are kept to a minimum. Another feature is the high attic roof, which is filled with heat-insulating and moisture-absorbing material (sawdust, straw, fallen leaves).

Hive Shapkin

Can be used with or without frames. The hive was invented by the Russian popularizer of contactless beekeeping V.F. Shapkin. In essence, it is a collapsible board.

The walls of the buildings are based on a frame made of wooden bars. There is a plastic layer outside, plywood sheathing inside, foam plastic between them. The combined bottom helps to produce a successful fight against flare.

Manufacturing nuances

It is not necessary to completely copy the finished drawing of the hive. You can combine successful devices of different designs, for example, use a high bottom according to German technology. The same decision is radically changed by small nuances - whether or not to make holes for tapholes in the hulls, to use a blind or mesh bottom, etc.

The most popular material for the manufacture of beehives, no doubt, is wood. It is important to take into account its moisture content before building evidence. According to GOST, it should not exceed 15%. In the case of a high moisture content, the structure will inevitably lead, the dimensions of the board will change.

Making hives for your bees is a lot of fun! But in order for the bees to appreciate your work, it must be done according to certain rules and from materials suitable for this. We figure out together how to make a warm, dry, and bee-friendly hive.

Every self-respecting beekeeper should know how to make a bee hive with their own hands. After all, there will come a time when you want to build a house for your “wards” yourself.

There are quite a lot of varieties of beehives: sunbed, double-hull, with a semi-frame store, Dadanovsky, multi-hull, Altai and others. Each of them will have its own disadvantages and advantages. The beekeeper decides on his own: which one to give preference to and which one to make on his own.

The classic version of the hive, known to every beekeeper, is a 20-frame body with two compartments, a magazine and a lid. In appearance, this design looks like an oblong-shaped box, with a large and thick bottom, a thickened roof.

Before starting work on making a future beehive for bees with your own hands, you should familiarize yourself with the components of the structure and know: what and what it is intended for.

Almost every version of hives (many for sure) contains the following elements:

1. Frame. It is a kind of box, consisting of the walls of the hive. Case dimensions may vary and depend on the specific model. There are also configurations with a large number of cases that are stacked on top of each other. An obligatory attribute of any building is a taphole or several tapholes.
2. Shop extension. It is not a mandatory part, but it is present in many hives. Looks like a shortened body model. The main goal is to preserve honey during the period of its harvest, as well as to provide honey for a weak family that is not able to harvest a lot.
3. Roof lining. It is located between the roof and the upper case with frames. It has the same purpose as the store. Serves to create better conditions life for bees, as well as for installing a feeder and warming the house for the winter.
4. Bottom. It may or may not be removable. Each configuration has its own positive sides. So, if the removable one allows you to take care of the bees more quickly and efficiently, then the second option creates an additional area for insects, a kind of landing area.
5. Ceiling. It is a plank that covers the nest at the top of the hive. In some models of hives, a canvas is used instead of a ceiling.
6. Hive roof. The main purpose is protection from precipitation and natural phenomena that adversely affect the life of the nest. It can be absolutely anything: gentle, flat, two- and single-sided. The flat roof is convenient for transportation.
7. Framework. Can be nested and sectional. So, the former serve to create honeycombs by bees, and the latter - to harvest honey in combs.
8. feeder. It is used for organizing feeding or, if necessary, treating bees.
9. Insert board. Serves to narrow the free space. It is regulated taking into account what powers a certain family has.

All hives can be divided into several types:

• square (the size of the frames in width and height is the same);
• low-wide (length slightly exceeds width);
• narrow-altitude (the height is much greater than the width).

The most common materials for creating beehives

Classic hives are wooden structures that beekeepers made with their own hands back in the days of the birth of beekeeping and the domestication of bees. This option brings insects as close as possible to their real and natural habitat conditions.

But progress does not stand still today to the question: “How and from what to make a hive with your own hands?” - there are many answers. Fortunately, craftsmen have come up with a lot of various schemes and drawings, and modern building supermarkets offer a lot of ideas for using materials.

Wood. This material is rightfully recognized as the most ancient. Not so long ago, almost everything that could be built and made was made of wood. The best option there will be a hardwood tree - linden, aspen. The smell of this wood is very pleasant and the honey will not get specific features. In addition, moisture will not collect in the hive in summer. The disadvantage is that in winter you need to warm well.

Recently, coniferous wood has been used to create beehives - pine, spruce, fir. This is a budget option, if you refer to the tree as building material for the hive. In addition, it has good heat saving performance, which guarantees a good wintering with little warming. Among the shortcomings, there is an accumulation of moisture inside the hive and the acquisition of a specific coniferous smell by honey, especially in new buildings.

Plywood. Material characterized by durability and environmental friendliness. If the outer part of the structure is covered with an acrylic coloring composition and the house is insulated with polystyrene foam, then the properties of the material will surpass wood by several times.

In such a hive, the bees will be dry and comfortable, in case of choosing high-quality material and proper operation. Plywood is afraid of moisture and requires constant care.

Expanded polystyrene. One of the modern materials used in the manufacture of beehives. It compares favorably with the rest by its low cost and the absence of the need for additional insulation of the structure for the cold season.

The disadvantages are recognized: fragility and fragility of the structure (compared to plywood and wood). If the material is of dubious quality, the quality of honey may deteriorate.

Styrofoam. It would seem that for what you can use the remnants of packaging from large household appliances. Not every experienced beekeeper comes up with such a thing. custom solution how to use when building a beehive with your own hands. This is the most budget option you can think of. The advantages include very light weight (even with filled frames, it will not exceed 14 kg), good thermal insulation properties.

The disadvantages clearly include fragility, as well as the need for mandatory painting in order to protect against exposure to ultraviolet radiation harmful to the foam.

Polyurethane- material used in the insulation of facades. It has good thermal conductivity properties, does not pass or accumulate moisture, is not subject to decay and decomposition, and is also not a medium for the development of fungus and bacteria. The good news is that bees, mice, and birds do not like to gnaw holes in such structures. Among the shortcomings, flammability is noted, which also applies to wooden structures. If you want to make a hive from polyurethane, be sure to consider ventilation, since the material itself does not allow air to pass through.

Before you start making a hive with your own hands, carefully study the characteristics of each material. We offer you two options. Budget foam and classic wood.

What should be the hive?

Of course, warm, dry and comfortable for insects! And this is regardless of what material you use.

Proper ventilation is important in making hives with your own hands. If this is not done, then the bees may die due to inadequate living conditions or leave their place of residence in search of a new, more convenient and comfortable one.

It is very good if during the construction you think over a design that will allow you to modify the hives and increase or decrease them as needed.

When creating a preliminary drawing on paper, the following factors should be considered:

1. The size of the hive will depend on required amount frames inside and their size.
2. The width is defined as the product of the number of frames and the number of 37.5 cm.
3. When calculating the length, the same parameter is taken into account (the distance between the two side strips). So, most often the length will be equal to the sum of the length of the frame and another 14 mm.
4. In height, your hive should be equal to the number, which will include the sum of the height of the folds and the frames to be installed.

Do-it-yourself production of a foam hive

Using foam in the manufacture of bee housing is the cheapest option.

The following facts can be safely attributed to the advantages:

1. Complete lack of conduction of heat. In the cold it will be warm here, and in the heat it will be cool and cozy.
2. Resistant to rotting and warping.
3. Ease of operation and maintenance. Repair is carried out by replacing the part with a new one. If necessary, the design can be quickly modified, built on or removed.
4. Light weight. The average weight of a foam house is about a kilogram. A suitable option for nomadic beekeepers.
5. Moisture and condensate is not absorbed and does not remain on the walls, it flows down.
6. The bees are more productive during the honey harvest period and consume less food in the winter.

The significant disadvantages of this version of the hive include the fear of direct sunlight and the need to make the structure heavier in order to avoid tipping over. Particular attention should be paid to the correct ventilation, otherwise the bees may die in winter or escape in summer.

For manufacturing you will need:

• foam sheets;
• sandpaper of small grain size;
• self-tapping screws (5 cm);
• water-based paint;
• glue or nails (liquid) for gluing parts;
• ruler;
• paint roller;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• circular saw and utility knife.

Step-by-step instruction

How to make a beehive with your own hands step by step:

1. It is better to buy foam plastic in hardware stores. There are several configurations: 20, 30 mm and 50 mm.
2. Draw the necessary design on sheets of paper and only then transfer it to the foam using a felt-tip pen and a ruler.
3. To cut out the constituent parts, use a circular saw, a hacksaw for metal, or a clerical knife.
4. Clean up the edges with sandpaper.
5. The sides of the future walls must be fastened by overlapping (cut quarters at the joints and drive tightly into each other), fixing the elements with liquid nails.
6. To consolidate the result, it is better to walk along the perimeter with self-tapping screws (no more than one per 10-15 cm).
7. If the case is multi-level, then the levels should be tightly fitted on top of each other.

In the manufacture of the bottom, it is better to use galvanized sheet, in which the necessary ventilation holes are made in advance. It is better if the pallet is removable. The bottom is attached to the body with self-tapping screws.

For the manufacture of the roof, you can use the same foam, but since the structure is light, do not forget about weighting.

Classic variant

To make a beehive for bees with your own hands from traditional wood, you should acquire a set of carpentry tools, as well as boards with a humidity that fluctuates between 15-16%.

The number of boards will be different for each, since the cases can be made different. It is best to borrow a hive drawing from those who have previously created such structures and are actively using them.

Be sure to adhere to the basic parameters of the main elements - this will simplify operation.

In such a hive, the following elements must be present: insert boards (2 pcs.), Canvas or ceiling boards, burlap insulation.

An approximate design and basic measurements are indicated in the following drawing of beehives for bees:

Multi-hull bessaltsevy hive

This hive has fully justified itself during its existence (about one and a half hundred years). Its design over the years has not undergone significant changes, but the manufacture has been greatly simplified.
A multi-hull hive is a construction of several identical housings, a removable (sometimes not) bottom, lid, ceiling, magazine extensions and, of course, a dividing grid. If desired, the overall design can be somewhat modified and supplemented.


The picture above shows a case that looks like a box with the following internal dimensions: W = 37.5 cm, L = 45 cm, H = 24 cm. About 10 standard frames (43.5 by 23 cm) can easily fit into this design.

From such cases, the following design is created:

In our climatic latitudes, the width of the case is 37.5, and not 37 cm, as is customary in warmer countries with a dry climate. Under influence high humidity the frames swell a little and change. In this case, it simply becomes difficult to get them out of the case. Also, during operation, propolis is layered, which also leads to problems when removing frames. Some beekeepers even increase the body to 38 cm in order to further ease of operation.

To create one such body with your own hands in the overall design, you need to take boards that must be at least 3-5 mm larger than the required dimensions of the future parts of the hive. It is necessary to take into account the margin that will be needed during processing. There should be a material overlap of 1 cm on the trimming in each direction. All boards are well dried before use, must be non-resinous, and also aged for at least a year.

On two walls (front and back), at the upper edge, folds should be made for inserting frames measuring 11 by 17 mm. The depth of 17 mm allows you to fit frames into the case so that another case can be placed on top.

At a distance of 7 cm from the upper edge, holes should be made in the central part of the outer side for ease of holding and carrying the structure.

Next, you need to make an additional notch, which will serve as a source of additional ventilation for the hive. It is drilled on the front wall under the sink. He usually round shape about 2.5 cm in diameter.

Between each other, each such body is connected tightly end-to-end, without the use of folds. This design is considered more convenient to use and easy to manufacture.

During the operation of a multi-tiered hive with a seam structure, when moving and removing the housings, disturbed bees run to the lower part and often clog up in the seam recesses.
When the body is put back in place, the bees left in the folds will be crushed. Very often there is also a uterus. This is an absolute minus of such a design. That is why, almost all over the world, beekeepers have abandoned them in favor of a beehive without folds.

Production of extensions of a multi-hull hive

A honey extension, or otherwise a store, is a design that allows you to acquire full-weight honeycombs at the end of the season, and also does not allow the uterus to work in this design.

The standard frame dimensions for this extension are 43.5 x 14.5 cm.
This part of the common hive is made in the same way as the body. It differs only in a lower height due to the fact that half-frames are used. Making a frame in this extension is not difficult. Most often, the standard sample is divided in half.

Some beekeepers make a viewing window in the extension for convenience.
A beekeeper's arsenal should have several stores.

Roof manufacturing

The thickness of the boards for the roof is standard - 2 cm. From the boards of this size, the necessary design of the shield is assembled, after which, to prevent rotting outer part covered with a sheet of tin.
Some beekeepers prefer to mount such a mesh structure in the roof:


This is done so that additional ventilation is created for them during the transportation of bees. Also, such a design will be convenient, if necessary, to isolate their families for some time from the outside world and flights for nectar.

The bottom of the hive

The bottom is best done removable and double-sided. To do this, you need to take three bars with dimensions: 57x6.5x3.5 cm - those that will be on the sides, and 44.5x6.5x3.5 - the one that will be installed in the back. In each bar, at a distance of 2 cm from the upper edge, it is necessary to make a groove 3.5 cm wide and 1 cm deep. The bars are assembled into a single structure in the form of the letter "P". The grooves are made for installing the floor.

The general design of the bottom provides for a more protruding front part (5 cm), forming a landing board.
There is also a design of a dividing bottom, which is used in the case of a two-queen keeping of bees in a single hive.

Ceiling

Represents a continuous wooden structure dimensions 52 by 44 cm. Consists of a shield and a rim. The rim is made of wooden slats 3.5 cm wide and 1.5 cm thick. The shield is made of boards 1 cm thick and with a total size of 47 by 39.5 cm. A hole should be made in the middle part to create better ventilation of the nest or installation feeders during feeding.


The ceiling has two different sides: smooth and one that has a rim protruding by 0.5 cm. On the body, the installation is carried out by a part without a rim, while on the protruding side, some space is formed that allows insects to move freely.
If such a design is used as a delimiter between families, then the hole is upholstered with a fine mesh or a wooden insert is installed in it.

Stand

It looks like a box and matches in size with the outer parameters of the bottom. The side faces are made at an inclination of 45 degrees and together with the bottom form a good arrival board. The same sides should have recesses measuring 2.5 by 9 cm in the middle part. Their main purpose is the ability to raise the hive above the stand or conveniently insert the crepe for further transportation. Also through these holes there is additional ventilation. To increase the life of the structure, coat it with bitumen dissolved in gasoline. Toxic fumes will quickly evaporate, and the bitumen itself will densely impregnate the boards, which will increase resistance to moisture.

Dividing grid

A design such as a dividing grid can also be done independently. Its main purpose is to isolate the queen for some time from the main nest, as well as to separate the brood and honey enclosures. Its dimensions must match the internal dimensions of the case. It is installed on bars. To create it, it is better to use a wire structure.

Framework

You can also not buy frames, but do it yourself. So, the standard frame sizes in the hive design described above are as follows:


The side bar of the upper part, increased to 3.7 cm, allows you to firmly fix the frames inside the hive and prevent them from moving. The bottom bars are exactly the same size as the side bars.

I hope this instruction will save you from the question of how to make a beehive with your own hands step by step, thank you for your attention! Please share this information.

Before you start building a hive, you need to find a suitable place for it. No matter how comfortable the house is, if there are no flowering honey plants next to it, the family is unlikely to be productive. The hives should be set up on level ground, preferably with a slight slope to the south, east or west to allow rainwater to run off.
The apiary must be protected from drafts and strong winds. To do this, it is installed near a fence or wall. Tall plants can serve as a protective wall: sunflowers, corn, bushes or trees. Such hedge will provide shade for the houses in the summer heat.

One of critical aspects proper breeding of bees - providing a dry and warm place for their maintenance. To do this, you can buy ready-made bee houses. However, the problem is that used bee hives can be contaminated and new ones are quite expensive. An alternative option would be to make your own hives.

Moreover, there is nothing particularly complicated in this. Almost any beekeeper, even a beginner, with a little effort and effort, can quite make a beehive with his own hands. You just need to carefully study the drawings of existing structures and choose the most suitable one for your insects. suitable option taking into account the climatic zone and the expected size of the future family.

Criteria for choosing ready-made houses

When buying a ready-made bee house or if you want to make it yourself, you must first decide on the model.

When choosing a suitable design, the following criteria must be taken into account:

• climate and weather conditions in the region: if spring and summer are cold with characteristic frosts, insulated, double-walled hives are needed, they can be left to winter outside;
• opportunities for honey collection in the area: for abundant honey collection, sunbeds, double-hull and multi-hull are suitable, for meager ones - small, single-hull;
• a type of apiary: heavy sun loungers and two-hull houses are suitable for a stationary one, for a portable one - light, compact, multi-hull, made of expanded polystyrene;
• planned methods: if you need to create another family with a new queen, you need a sunbed;
• apiary dimensions: for a large farm, hives are ideal, from which honey can be quickly pumped out, for example, double-hulled ones;
• experience in beekeeping: beginners will find it easier to start with a simple bed design.

To find out what types of hives are successful in your area, you can consult with experienced beekeepers and watch them work.

Requirements for a homemade hive

• building material must be taken durable, impermeable to moisture, in order to protect insects from bad weather conditions;
• you need a heater that will keep warm inside in winter, and comfortable coolness in summer;
• it is desirable to have not one, but several entrances, which, according to the weather, can be closed and opened;
• there must be enough space in the hive for the movement of bees, for brood and honey;
• the design should be convenient for the beekeeper so that he can easily collect honey, clean the house and take care of the family, you will need an opening lid and / or a removable bottom.

The most famous designs

The main types of hives

On the Web, you can find many schemes for making a hive with your own hands. When choosing the most suitable scheme, pay attention to the type of design. Among the existing ones, the most common and convenient are the following:

• Horizontal. They are also called beds. They look like a horizontal box, the length of which may vary depending on the number of frames. Its peculiarity is that the nest and the store are located next door.
• Vertical, also called risers. The box has a vertical arrangement, the design consists of several tiers. Its size is increased by adding new hulls or magazines on top (as opposed to horizontal, in which additions are made from the side).

Important! The division of views also occurs on the size of the frames. They are narrow and high, low and wide or equilateral.

Dadanovsky hive

One of the popular designs that is installed in many apiaries. Received its love because of its ease of use and spaciousness. It can be made with your own hands from wood, and it consists of 12 frames, which can be supplemented if desired. During the summer period and after an increase in the family, the hive can be enlarged with the help of additional buildings.

Alpine

A multi-hull hive built in the likeness of a hollow. Gained great popularity due to the similarity with the natural habitat of wild bees. This structure is ideal for places with limited space. It has no partitions and holes for ventilation. Fresh air enters the inside of the hive through the notch.

This dwelling is suitable for honey plants living in warm regions, because due to regular rearrangements of the buildings, the thermal effect inside the dwelling is disturbed. Ruta contains 6 cases of 10 frames.

Cassette

These hives have become popular due to the emergence of new bee diseases. This design has thin partitions, in connection with this, the swarm creates a microclimate for itself.

Important! It is built from natural material, impregnated with wax.

Ukrainian lounger

Ideal solution for inexperienced beekeepers. It can be quickly made by hand. They consist of 20 frames and insulated side walls, so honey plants survive the winter cold very well. Ukrainian lounger is easy to maintain.

Beehive

The hive is thin-walled, the wall thickness is 20 mm. Suitable for warm climate regions. The house has a lot of advantages - the buildings are light, easy to build with your own hands, very practical.

Medicinal properties

The bee house is used for treatment in alternative and standard medicine. This method is called "Sleep on the beehives." The effect is achieved in three ways:

1. Healing air.
2. Microvibration.
3. The action of the biofield.

The bee air contains propolis and flower nectar. Inhaling this mixture, the respiratory tract is cleansed. Helps with bronchitis, cough, acute respiratory infections.

bee hive heals

1. Cardiovascular diseases.
2. Infertility.
3. Diseases of the gastrointestinal tract.

Helps with postoperative rehabilitation, as well as metabolic disorders in the body.

The use of bee therapy is prohibited if

1. Alcohol was taken.
2. At allergic reactions for pollen and honey.
3. Taking any medication.
4. The disease is in the acute stage.

The benefits of honey have been known since ancient times. Recent times bee product is actively used for the treatment oncological diseases. Cancer is a malignant tumor that kills healthy cells of the body and reduces immune system. Treatment with honey restores old cells, enhances the work of new cells.

In addition to honey, bees are also used in treatment. In motion, these insects create vibration and positively affect the human biofield. This method of treatment strengthens the immune system, invigorates and gives strength.

Materials for the manufacture of beehives

Initially, beekeepers collected honey from wild bees in the hollows of forest trees. Then someone came up with the idea of ​​making decks in logs and installing them near their home. The modern hive is a simplified and, more importantly, lightweight version of the deck. Therefore wood is considered best material for making hives for bees. Bees feel very comfortable in wooden houses.

Linden is considered the best type of wood in the manufacture of beehives. It absorbs less moisture and practically does not contain wood resins.

However, the thermal insulation properties of this tree are low and the beehives made of linden need to be additionally insulated for the winter. In addition, linden boards are more expensive than other, more common types of wood.

Pine and spruce hives are much cheaper and retain heat better. But the coniferous smell and the ability to absorb moisture make the beehives of these types of wood not comfortable enough. The main advantages of pine and spruce houses are low cost and good ability to retain heat.

What material is better to make hives

Since ancient times, wooden beehives have been installed in the apiary. For their manufacture, natural soft wood of linden, poplar, willow, spruce or cedar was used. Today, polystyrene foam and polyvinyl chloride beehives are found on sale. They have a lot of advantages over wooden models - lightness, ease of transportation and assembly. But the main benefit wooden house- its naturalness and environmental safety.

To make a bee house, they buy a high-quality cut of soft wood. Boards used for construction are processed and polished. Their surface should be smooth, without chips and knots. Knots well intergrown with the surface are allowed on parts with a width of at least 65 mm. The walls, bottom and roof of the hive are made of boards of various sizes. Only one rule applies to them - high quality wood (without rotten and rotten places, without mold and rotten knots).

Plywood

Easy to process and durable material for bee houses, which, however, does not withstand moisture, and therefore its outer surface must be primed and painted. To retain heat, the inner surface of the plywood hive is pasted over with expanded polystyrene. Plywood structures are strong and lightweight, but require annual maintenance to ensure protection from moisture.

Expanded polystyrene and foam

These materials have become quite widely used for the manufacture of beehives in recent years. They are easy to process, and therefore it is much easier to make a hive from them than from any other material.

Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene constructions are very light, dry and warm. Bees in such houses feel quite comfortable. The low cost of materials makes them available to most beekeepers.

The disadvantages include low strength and fragility of the structure, which requires very careful handling. In addition, polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene are afraid of exposure to ultraviolet rays and are destroyed over time. Therefore, to protect against solar radiation, hives made of these materials must be painted.

Polyurethane

Another modern material, which does not rot, is moisture resistant, is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation, is easily processed, retains heat well and has a small specific gravity. Polyurethane is not spoiled by mice, birds and insects. Hives from it are light and comfortable. The disadvantages include its flammability, inability to pass air and high cost.

Video about the manufacture of beehives from different materials

Hive design requirements

The main requirements for the design of bee hives are that they must provide a dry, well-ventilated and warm room for bees. When developing your own design that differs from the standard options, you should take into account some features. As practical experience shows, constructive dimensions should provide for the following:

• the width of the upper bar on the frames is 25 mm;
• between the axes of adjacent frames should be 37.5 mm;
• width of streets or passages for bees 12.5 mm;
• between the side rails of the frames and the walls of the hive no more than 7.5 mm;
• from the top of the frame to the lower housing and from the lower bar to the upper housing must be at least 8 and not more than 10 mm;
• the distance from the lower bar of the frame to the bottom of the hive body is within 20-40 mm.

These insects are especially good at distinguishing yellow, orange and blue shades, as well as white. The roof needs to be painted white to reduce its heating from the sun's rays. Before painting, the surface is treated with drying oil or primer.

When using thin walls for the winter period, they are insulated with reed or straw mats. You can use other heaters, but this option with mats is the cheapest. Compliance with these conditions will ensure the normal development of the bee colony and simple maintenance of the hive.

Do-it-yourself "horned" hive

One of the simplest and, at the same time, effective designs for making hives with your own hands is the "horned" hive. This model got its name due to the presence of connecting pins protruding at the corners of the case. It was invented by Mikhail Polivoda, who decided to develop a multi-tiered sectional hive that was as simple as possible to manufacture.

Each separate section consists of 4 framed boards 155 wide and 22 mm thick. To connect the sections to each other, bars 22x27 mm are fixed in the corner parts of the body, protruding 22 mm in the upper part and not reaching the edge by 17 mm in the lower part.

When the cases are stacked on top of each other, these bars connect them, creating a solid monolithic structure. The gap remaining between the bars is intended for disassembly using a chisel or other tool. The internal dimensions of the case are 450x300 mm.

The density of the joints between the bodies to be joined is ensured by the selection of end seams along the edges of the boards. In order to simplify the work, instead of folds, parallel bars can be nailed inside the body, on which the shoulders of the body frame will rest. In this case, the structure will become somewhat heavier, and the internal dimensions will be determined by the distance between these bars.

The quality of board processing is not critical. The main condition is the absence of strong roughness. The same can be said about the thickness of the board. It is important that only internal dimensions are maintained.

The bottom is made of a metal mesh with a cell of 3x3 or 4x4 mm, stretched over a frame body made of boards 100 mm wide. On one of the narrow sides there is a wide notch 22 mm high. As a ceiling, a cover with boards stuffed with a continuous layer is used.

In winter, for insulation, it is covered with polystyrene foam or polystyrene glued to a sheet of tin. After manufacturing, all sections must be primed and painted with colored paints.

The working capacity of such a "horned" hive is designed for the installation of 8 Dadan or magazine frames. The structure, assembled from several sections, is installed on a wooden platform slightly raised above the ground. The wall thickness of 25 mm provides for additional insulation in the winter season.

Advantages of the "horned" hive

Most beekeepers admit that Mikhail Polivoda developed a very simple and successful design, while noting that:

• making a hive for bees has become easier;
• any dry wood can be used as a material;
• even wood waste can be used as bars;
• in the manufacture does not require the presence of a complex tool;
• the weight of the case is small, which allows you to easily transfer it to a new place;
• you can use store frames or make them yourself;
• the design is inexpensive and affordable even for beginner beekeepers.

As a result, the solution is practical and very comfortable to use.

Instructions for the manufacture and assembly of a classic hive

Thanks to a simple and understandable design, until recently, the Dadanovsky hive was considered a classic option. Its design consists of:

• several cases for installing frames;
• two stores;
• ceiling;
• liner;
• roofs;
• insert board;
• 10 or 12 frames.

As obligatory additional accessories included in the kit, it is considered the presence of a feeder, a drinker and a barrier in the form of conical wooden plugs.

Before you make a hive with your own hands, you must select and purchase necessary materials, which can be used as dry linden, aspen, pine or spruce boards with a thickness of 30-40 mm, and for the lid and liner - 15 mm thick. The surface of the boards must be carefully processed at least on one side and along the ends. No more than 3 knots are allowed in any wooden part.

As a material, you can use expanded polystyrene, polystyrene of grade not lower than 40 or polyurethane. To assemble the structure, you need PVA glue or other waterproof glue with a strength of at least 20 kg / cm 2, as well as nails 10, 40 and 60 mm long. The roof is covered with a layer of roofing felt or other waterproofing material. At the final stage, you will need drying oil, paints and brushes.

Case and magazine manufacturing

For the manufacture of cases and magazines, the available boards are cut into lengths of 530 and 340 mm. On the long ends of the boards, tongues and ridges 15 mm wide are selected. Shields are assembled from the prepared segments on the tongue-and-groove adhesive joint. To create the possibility of hanging frames, a fold 11 wide and 20 mm deep is selected in the front and rear walls.

On the inner edge of the side walls, it is necessary to remove a fold 16 mm wide and 10 mm deep, and on the outer side, chamfer 5x5 mm. Thanks to the presence of this fold, the store will be installed on the body, and the chamfer will ensure reliable removal of moisture from the walls during rain.

A fold 24 mm wide and 10 mm high is made along the lower edge of the case and magazine. The dimensions of the shield for the side wall are 490x340 mm. In corner joints, they enter the folds of the front and rear walls.

Roof manufacturing

The roof structure consists of a roof and retaining strapping. The roof is assembled from boards 10-15 mm thick or plywood 8-10 mm thick is used. For waterproofing, it is covered with two layers of roofing material or waterproofing. It is even better to use sheet aluminum or galvanized iron.

To hold the roof in a fixed position, wooden slats 20x20 mm are nailed along the perimeter of the strapping. Ventilation holes must be drilled in the end walls and closed metal mesh with a cell of 3x3 mm.

Bottom Assembly

The bottom of the Dadan hives is detachable. The shield is assembled from boards 40 mm thick on glue into a tongue and groove 10x20 mm. The outer strapping is made of a wooden block when connected to a spike. A fold is selected along the upper edge for the possibility of installing a store. The dimensions of the bottom must match the dimensions of the hull.

Universal sizes

Whatever project you take as a basis, it is important to observe the main dimensions of the parts and the distances between them. For bee houses with low wide frames, it is important to maintain the distance between the back and front. It should be exactly 45 cm.

Universal sizes for all types of hives are as follows:

1. With a honeycomb thickness of 2.5 cm, the street is 1.25 cm.
2. The passage between the frames and the walls of the hive (front and back) is 0.75 cm.
3. Leave 2 cm between the bottom and the bottom bar of the nest.
4. Between the middle walls of adjacent frames, you need to make a distance of 3.75 cm.

A good do-it-yourself hive will delight the beekeeper and serve as a safe haven for bees for 10 years. In regions with low humidity and good weather conditions, this period can be 20 years. When building, refer to trusted sources, look at the apiary of an experienced beekeeper, use his personal opinion. These tips will help you achieve good results.

Drawings of the hive Dadana

Since the Dadanovsky hive and the sunbed use standard frames, they differ only in width: one should fit 12 pieces of frames, the other - 20 or 24 pieces. The rest of the parameters remain the same.

Lateral and frontal (back and front) walls of the hive

Case Assembly Diagram

Changeable parameters for hives with different number of frames are shown in the table. Substitute them in the drawing and get the option that you need.

What you need to know before you start making a beehive with your own hands

Even before the start of independent production of hives, it is necessary to know the requirements for materials and technology for the construction of evidence for bees. A lot of them. Let's start with the requirements for the material.

What are they made of

The most common material is wood. Both non-tarry coniferous wood (spruce, fir, deresined pine) and loose hardwoods - poplar, linden, etc. can be used. Dense wood should not be used - the hive will be heavy and cold.

Wood requirements are strict. It must be dry - no more than 16% moisture, without falling knots, rot, wormholes, redness. Blueing is acceptable (it does not affect quality indicators). If there are knots, they can be removed, sealed with corks from the same type of wood and puttied. Do not use wood with other defects.

Today they make beehives from plywood, preferably birch. In this case, the walls are made double with a gasket between the layers of insulation - foam. These hives are warm in winter and cool in summer. Their minus is that the walls are vapor-tight, moisture does not escape through them. Therefore, special attention should be paid to the ventilation system of the hive (make an additional notch at the top, and, if necessary, open it for ventilation).

Sometimes hives are assembled from polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam and polystyrene foam. The most successful option is polystyrene foam. Even some fasteners can be installed in it, neither bees nor other insects gnaw at it. The remaining two materials are collected on glue, and bees also sharpen them, and ants and other neighbors undesirable for bees can settle.

Handling and assembly requirements

When assembling a hive with your own hands, you must strictly maintain the internal dimensions of the body and extensions. Then increasing the volume will not cause difficulties. Parts of the hive - bodies, extensions, stores, roof - must be connected to the castle and the castle parts must also match. This is necessary for a reliable connection without gaps and drafts, which bees do not like very much. In this regard, the maximum tolerances during processing are 1-2 mm.

There are also requirements for the quality of material processing. Most of them relate to wood, but they can also be applied to other materials:

• Boards and bars should be smooth, without burrs, scuffs and chips.
• It is necessary to cut materials strictly at an angle of 90 °, avoiding deviations.
• The hive bodies must be knocked down from solid boards with a thickness of 40-45 mm or using a tongue-and-groove connection, glued for reliability.
• To pair the parts of the hive in detail, choose a quarter - for a reliable gapless connection.
• On the front and back walls of the hive, a fold is made - for hanging the frames. The depth of the fold should be such that there is a distance of at least 8-10 mm from the top edge of the plank to the cover or extension. If the distance is shorter, the frames may stick to the lid, which creates maintenance problems.
• If the walls are made two-layer (with insufficient thickness of the boards), the outer ones connect them in a quarter, making sure that the seams in the layers do not match. It is better to connect the inner parts and the bottom into a tongue or groove.

Structural elements and their features

Most often, the hive has a modular structure - it consists of several detachable parts. This is convenient, as it allows you to increase the volume as needed. Each of these parts is made separately and the manufacturing accuracy must be high - all parts must be interchangeable.

Dadanov's hive of two buildings, placed one on top of the other

Frame

This is the central part of the hive, in which the nest of bees is usually located. By the number of housings, hives are single, double-hulled or multi-hulled (3 or more). Corps are instructed as the family grows.

Hive body for 12 frames

Roof

The roof of the hive can be single-pitched (tilted backwards) or gabled. In the forehead case, it should be with overhangs - to protrude beyond the geometric dimensions of the hive and protect the walls from the effects of bad weather.

Roof structures for beehives

The roof consists of a liner - a flat body for accommodating insulation or feeders for feeding bees - and the actual roof planks nailed to the liner with nails or screwed with self-tapping screws. The height of the armpit depends on the thickness of the insulation, and this value depends on the region. Usually the height of the liner is 80-140 mm. Ventilation holes are often also made in the liner - to remove moist air from the hive.

In the manufacture of the roof, the boards are laid either in two layers with overlapping seams, or from thicker boards in one layer, but the seams must be closed with thin strips. over wooden roof hives can be laid roofing iron, roofing felt or roofing material.

In the manufacture of the roof, pay attention to the fact that it "sits down" tightly, without gaps. To seal the connection around the perimeter of the body, you can stuff a felt strip or nail a plinth outside the body to cover the joint.

The bottom of the hive can be nailed to the body (deaf) or can be pulled out or pulled out, that is, it can be detachable. The detachable bottom facilitates the maintenance of the hives - it allows you to clean the bottom without disassembling the entire hive. Structurally, the bottom happens:

• cold - from a single board;
• warm - from two layers with a warming backfill.

Also, the bottom is double-sided - with protrusions of different heights on both sides, which allows you to adjust the internal volume. They knock it down tightly, without cracks, connect the boards in a quarter or in a groove with additional sizing of the joint with moisture-resistant glue for wood. The cracks must be carefully sealed (putty on wood), as wax crumbs are poured into them, and then the wax moth starts up. Therefore, from time to time they prefer to replace the bottom, knocking together a new one.

Useful videos

20 frame horizontal beehive

The principle of operation for all types is the same. Before you make a bee hive with your own hands, you need to know the exact dimensions. 20 frame horizontal bee hive, step by step instructions:

1. We cut parts from a board four cm wide. These parts will serve as the front and back walls of the hive. Lateral, cut out from a board three cm long.
2. We assemble the structure so that all walls except the front one are in contact with the bottom, and the front one rises from the bottom by one and a half cm. This distance will serve as an entrance from below in the future. The corners are joined in a quarter and fastened with nails.
3. We make the floor from a board 3.5 cm thick. The bottom should look like a shield.
4. Ceilings are built from boards: L-47.8 cm, thickness - 1 cm.
5. We construct a roof. It can be made flat, single-sided or double-sided. This is the only part that can be upholstered with a metal sheet.
6. For the northern regions, the lounger must be insulated on both sides.

The sunbed consists of a bottom, a roof and walls. The frame is built from shields. Dimensions of the front part: 87x37. The height of the back wall is 87x34. The length of the side shields is 44x49 cm. The size of the bottom: 84x54.5, thickness 3.5 cm.
You can make bee evidence with your own hands from:

Simplicity in construction, with your own hands, is that the foam is inexpensive and reliable. Building from this material is simple and profitable. Before you build a beehive for bees with your own hands, you need to know the dimensions. The size of the future hive can be very diverse, it depends on the number of frames that will be there. To find out the width, you need to multiply the number of frames by 3.75. The length is calculated: the length of the frame plus 1.4. The height is calculated: add the height of the frame to the height of the folds.

1. Initially, you should decide on the size and start construction in stages.
2. We put stencils of the future house on the foam sheet.
3. We cut out future walls and clean the corners with sandpaper.
4. To fasten all the details, cut out the quarters and use nails and self-tapping screws to connect.
5. The bottom is made of galvanized sheet.
6. The roof must be flat or pitched. After fastening the roof, it is weighted.
7. Lettki perform standard.

After the construction of the hive is completed, it is necessary to make frames. They consist of: top, bottom and side bars. It is made from dried, natural material.
Dimensions according to GOST:

• top and side - B-2.5 cm
• top rail - H-2 cm;
• lower rail - B - from 1.5 to 2.5 cm;
• H - 1 cm;
• dimensions depend on the type of hive, dimensions according to GOST - 43.5x30.
  (H-height; B-width; L-length)

Frame

The central part of the hive is a four-walled box. It has a bee nest. As the bee family increases, the bodies can be pointed at each other. According to the number of buildings, houses are divided into: single, double-hull and multi-hull (from 3 or more). The wall thickness should be 35 mm. This size will help the swarm to overwinter well. The number of frames in the case can be from 16 to 24.

The parts prepared for the body are connected with nails or PVA glue. A cut is made in the lower part of the front wall: B-4cm, H-1cm. This slot will serve as an entrance and exit for the swarm. Also, at the bottom of the case, a hole is drilled for ventilation. The made case is treated on the outside with a water-repellent material and painted white.

Important! On the case, it is necessary to make notches on the sides, 7mm below the top of the case. They will serve as handles for easy transportation from place to place.

Roof

The roof is made from a board 2 cm thick. From the prepared boards we make a structure in the form of a shield and, to prevent the board from rotting, we cover it with a tin sheet.

Important! When building a hive, a tin sheet is used only to cover the roof, it is not used for wall cladding.

Most beekeepers place a mesh on top of the hive for extra ventilation when transporting bee houses. It is also necessary to isolate the swarm from the outside world.

For regions with a cold climate, the bottom is made of two layers of boards with insulating backfill. In the southern regions, insulation is not required, therefore, it is made from a single board.

The bottom is made of bars. Three side bars have standard dimensions - 57x6.5x3.5. The bars that will be installed in the back are 44.5x6.5x3.5. In each bar, at a distance of 2 cm from the top edge, it is necessary to make puzzles. After all the details are cut out, we proceed to assemble the parts of the structure. The bottom should be assembled with the letter "P". Grooves are needed to install the floor. The arrival board is made from a 5 cm protruding beam, the front bottom beam.
The bottom, for convenience, should be removable and double-sided.

Sample Toolkit

Before you start making a hive, you need to prepare the following tools:

• wooden hammer;
• awl;
• wire;
• pliers;
• nails and screws;
• measuring tape;
• perforator, welding machine and grinder;
• board 32x18, 12 mm plywood;
• insulation;
• a metal sheet;
• PVA, paint, brushes.

Blueprints

Drawings are more convenient to use ready-made.

Due to the large number of frames and housings, it will be difficult for a beginner beekeeper to make a multi-hull hive.

This type of hive is a large, long box. The floor and roof fit snugly into the structure itself. Drawings of the manufactured structure:

When designing a multi-hull house, you must follow a few rules:

1. The bottom can be made by anyone. The removable bottom makes it much easier to care for insects.
2. It is better to make the roof of the hive flat, for more convenient transportation.
3. Frames should be with side bars and have side bars.
4. For a family of bees, you need to make a feeder from a nomadic mesh.
5. The roof is assembled after the assembly of the entire structure and after the stage of insulation.
   The house should be warm, comfortable and airtight. Otherwise, the swarm will get sick, will not endure the winter cold and will not bear honey well.