How much m3 of timber is needed per house calculator. Calculator for calculating the cost of a log house with siding, slab prefabricated-monolithic foundation, wooden-beam ceiling, ondulin roof. Factors affecting the amount of timber required for construction
Before starting the construction of a house from a bar, many consumers ask themselves: how much timber is needed for the construction of the proposed structure. To answer this question, you can go two ways:
- Use the beam calculator;
- Read the article below about calculation of the amount of timber needed to build a house.
And if everything is more or less clear with a calculator, then it is much more difficult to do it yourself. Let's look into this issue.
Factors affecting the amount of timber needed to build a house.
The main thing to consider when calculating the amount of timber per house is:
- What type of timber will be used in construction;
- How much timber do we need;
- How many units of timber are in 1 cubic meter;
- Features of the project of a house from a bar or a cottage.
Calculation of building timber in cubic meters.
And so, how calculate the amount of timber in 1 cubic meter by the simplest method? It should be noted that the following example is not exact. To make a more accurate calculation, you must have a project of the future home.
To calculate the amount of timber in 1m 3, you must:
- Calculate the perimeter of the building;
- Multiply the perimeter by the height;
- The product of the perimeter and the height must be multiplied by the thickness of the product.
For our case, the formula will look like this: V \u003d h * b * l \u003d 0.15 * 0.15 * 6 \u003d 0.135 m 3,
- h is the height of the beam;
- b- width;
- l- length.
We find out how many units of lumber are in 1 cube as follows: 1 / 0.135 \u003d 7.41 pieces.
After carrying out all the above calculations, we will get the result of the number of cubes of timber required to build a building.
To calculate the beam needed for finishing internal walls, we use a similar method. let's consider specific example, how to calculate the amount of timber for a bath 5 * 10 meters, 3 meters high.
We will conditionally determine that the size of 150 * 150 mm will be used during construction.
- (5 m - width + 10 m length) × 2 \u003d 30 m - the perimeter of the building.
- 30 perimeter × 3 height = 90 m 2 - wall area.
- 90 area × 0.15 material thickness = 13.5 m 3 - needed to build a box from a 5 × 10 beam 3 m high.
In such a simple way, we calculated the amount of timber for the walls, which is 13.5 m 3. But, you need to consider that due to the presence of window and doorways, the amount of material used will be less than the calculated one.
Often, craftsmen do not take this moment into account, it is believed that it would be even better to add about 20% in reserve, as a result we will get: 13.5 + 20% = 16.2 m 3 of timber is necessary for a 5 * 10 m building.
Features of the beam, which must be taken into account in the calculation.
When building a house from a bar, the crown is laid first, which should be slightly thicker than the main bar. The first crown is made of a thicker beam, in the future the mass of the whole house will press on it, so it is additionally recommended to treat it with machine oil or an antiseptic.
In the above calculation, this nuance was not taken into account, it must be calculated separately.
Calculation of the beam in units.
After you have calculated the amount of timber in m 3, you can easily find out how much timber will be needed in units (pieces).
Consider a table of common sizes for this 6m long product:
Table of the amount of timber in 1 m 3 for calculating timber per house.
|
Section * bar length |
Volume 1 piece, m 3. |
The amount of timber in 1 m 3, pcs. |
|---|---|---|
In the above example, where we indicated the cubature of the beam for the bath, we will carry out a further calculation of materials in pieces.
In order to calculate the amount of material per house in pieces, we carry out such a calculation, for this the sum of 13.5 m 3 must be divided by the cubic volume of the used timber, in our case it is equal to 0.135 m3: 13.5: 0.135 = 100 pieces.
If you correctly calculate the amount of timber in pieces, then when buying a timber, you will be able to control whether the seller ships all the material to you.
The thickness and height of the beam.
The material can have different thickness and height, the following are the main dimensions:
- 100*100 mm.
- 100*150 mm.
- 150*150 mm.
- 150*200 mm.
- 200*200 mm.
If everything is clear with the height, the higher the beam, the fewer interventional seams, the faster construction works, and naturally, the number of pieces of timber for building a house is decreasing. But the width in this case is more important, especially when building for all-season living.
Attention: Sometimes timber manufacturers indicate the dimensions of the timber, which may differ from the real ones, for example, a timber of 150x150 mm actually has a size of 140x140 mm.
The consequences of buying such a beam will be very deplorable, if a beam of 150x150 mm in size is needed for a height of 3 meters, 20 pieces, then with a size of 140x140 mm - 21 pieces and a half, and this is one and a half crown rows.
If you are planning to live in a house all year round, then it is recommended to use a beam with a thickness of 200 mm. It is also necessary to take care of the insulation of the walls made of timber, the best option would be polystyrene foam or mineral wool 10 cm thick.
When constructing a bath, it is advisable to use a material thickness of 150 mm, it is quite enough to maintain the temperature for a short time. Well, if you still decide to build country house for summer holiday, then in this case, the walls of a bar of 100x100 mm will be just right.
The calculation technology will differ depending on the number of timber in the batch. For a small amount, it is very simple: if all the material has the same dimensions, you must first multiply the cross-sectional area (it will be equal to the width multiplied by the height of the section) of one bar multiplied by its length. Thus, you find the number of cubic meters of one unit of lumber, after which you multiply the resulting number by the total number of units - this will be the exact cubic capacity of the units of timber you purchased.
It is very difficult for a non-woodworking specialist to figure out how to calculate the cubic capacity of a beam or other wooden moldings. And this is important, since the sale of timber, boards, bars at sawmills and warehouse stores is carried out precisely in cubic meters, which is what many merchants use to earn money in their pocket.
There are at least two enough simple ways calculations that any non-specialist can master and feel confident when buying lumber for the home.
Calculations for a small amount
As mentioned above, here you just need to multiply the cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200bone beam by its length. For example, 15 units of timber with a section of 150 x 150 mm and a length of 6 meters were purchased. We find the cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200bthe beam - 0.15 x 0.15 \u003d 0.0225 square meters, after which we multiply this area by 6 and get 0.135 cubic meters. - that's how much one beam has. After that, we multiply the resulting number by 15 (the number of timber units) and get 2.025 - the total cubic capacity of the purchased timber.
In this way, in a very simple and accessible way, you can calculate not a large number of timber and other lumber.
It is also necessary to remember that there are special tables - cubic meters, which will minimize the use of the calculator and greatly simplify the calculations:
- timber 0.10 x 0.10 x 6m - 0.060 cubic meters. - 16.67 pieces per cubic meter.
- timber 0.10 x 0.15 x 6m - 0.090 cubic meters. - 11.11 pieces per cubic meter.
- timber 0.15 x 0.15 x 6m - 0.135 cubic meters. - 07.41 pieces per cubic meter.
- timber 0.10 x 0.20 x 6m - 0.120 cubic meters. - 08.33 pieces per cubic meter.
- timber 0.15 x 0.20 x 6m - 0.180 cubic meters. - 05.56 pieces per cubic meter.
- timber 0.20 x 0.20 x 6m - 0.240 cubic meters. - 04.17 pieces per cubic meter.
- timber 0.10 x 0.10 x 7m - 0.070 cubic meters. - 14.28 pieces per cubic meter.
- timber 0.10 x 0.15 x 7m - 0.105 cubic meters. - 09.52 pieces per cubic meter.
- timber 0.15 x 0.15 x 7m - 0.1575 cubic meters. - 06.35 pieces per cubic meter.
- timber 0.10 x 0.20 x 7m - 0.140 cubic meters. - 07.14 pieces per cubic meter.
- timber 0.15 x 0.20 x 7m - 0.210 cubic meters. - 04.76 pieces per cubic meter.
- timber 0.20 x 0.20 x 7m - 0.280 cubic meters. - 03.57 pieces per cubic meter.
There are times when you need to buy a large amount of timber for your home, while it can be of different lengths and cross-sectional sizes.
To measure and calculate each beam with such volumes is not an occupation for one day.
There is a calculation methodology for such cases, but first we need to understand the concepts of a cubic meter of dense wood and a folding one that exist in forest commodity science.
cubic meter of solid wood
A cubic meter of solid wood is the volume of clean wood obtained by measuring a single bar, excluding voids between the bar and other lumber.
Folding cubic meter
Folding cubic meter is dimensions a stack of timber, including voids between the timber.
To find the number of storage cubic meters, we stack the timber in a stack as tightly as possible, while the length of the stack should not be greater than the length of the main amount of lumber. Docking of short bars is allowed.
Upon completion, we measure the overall length, height and width of the resulting one or more stacks. When multiplying them, we get the folding cubic capacity of your timber, from which, by means of a special conversion factor, we obtain the cubic capacity of dense wood, for which you pay money.
The value of the conversion factor for lumber is regulated by a number of state standards (GOST 6564-84, GOST 6782.1-75, GOST 6782.2-75, GOST 13-24-86) and ranges from 0.74 to 0.82 for a bar - depending on the moisture content of the bar and the breed from which it is made.
There is a lot of talk about the fact that they have a lot of advantages. The characteristic features of the material under consideration are the correctness of forms and usefulness for the general living space. That is why the most important component for a correctly built house is a normalized calculation of the amount of material required. You can calculate the amount of timber per house on your own, without consulting specialists.
Of course, you should not avoid the advice of professionals, as they will be able to establish indicators in a short time and with incredible accuracy. For correct calculations, it is necessary to determine the required volumes, and find out how many components you need to take per square meter.
Thanks to the final results obtained, you can freely navigate the price range and future waste.
Calculation of the amount of materials
In order to make the calculation process more convenient, you need to use some list of simple tools:
- Regular pencil;
- paper sheet;
- Calculator;
- Roulette.
It is important to know that the indicators given in this article are approximate. Therefore, for a particular construction, it is worth using your own data.
The most accurate pictures are compiled during the planning period and the availability of the final project of the future structure.
- Measurement of the entire perimeter of the future building;
- Multiplying the perimeter by the floor height of the house;
- Multiplying the acquired numbers by the thickness of the material used;
- The resulting total number of cubes is an indicator necessary for construction.
If, in addition to the walls, it is planned to build internal partitions, this factor must also be taken into account in the calculations. If necessary, obtain indicators not in cubic meters, they can be easily converted into units.
The specific moment is determined by dividing the total volume by the volume of a unit of production.
Counting example
Suppose you want to install a one-story structure with dimensions of five by seven cubic meters. In addition to this, you need to install a partition together with. The total ceiling height is equal to three meters. As for the pediment, it also consists of a direct beam.
When performing activities, a tree is used, endowed with a section of 150 * 150 millimeters. IN this case the calculations will be:
- 33 meters / (5 + 7) * 2 + 5 - this is the immediate perimeter together with partitions;
- 33 * 3 * 0.15 \u003d 15 square meters - these are the total volumes of the wall surfaces of the first floor;
- 5*3*0,15=2,25 square meters- pediment volumes.
Having received all the above indicators, it is necessary to sum up. In this case, it is shown that 17.25 square meters of material is required for wall surfaces.
This is all taking into account window openings, doorways, beams and, of course, ceilings. It is important to remember that components should be purchased with a small margin.
Summing up, it turns out a total cubic footage equal to 25 square meters.
Dimensions of required materials
Sufficiently significant parameters are the thermal conductive properties and, of course, the thickness. In production summer house or a cottage necessary for regular living there, it is better to use materials with different thicknesses.
In the case of a summer country cottage, the width and thickness, in principle, does not really matter. Here it is possible to use materials endowed with a cross section of 100 * 100 millimeters. In the case of a cottage, you should pay attention to beams with a section width of more than 150 millimeters. Of course, additional thermal insulation of wall openings is also required.
The specific number of elements required for the construction process depends on the thickness parameters. If you want to save on the purchased material, you need to remember about the not quite high-quality thermal effect obtained in the future.
For the construction of an insulated building, it is necessary to use beams with a thickness of approximately fifty centimeters.
A similar result can be obtained with the use of sections of 150 * 150 millimeters, as well as insulation of ten or fifteen centimeters.
| FOUNDATION: | |
| rubble: | |
| 6.8 m³ x 1900 rub/m³ | 12920 rub. |
| concrete M200: | |
| 5.2 m³ x 4200 rub/m³ | 21840 rub. |
| concrete M200: | |
| 22.7 m³ x 4200 rub/m³ | 95340 rub. |
| bar fittings Ø10, 12, 14 AIII: | |
| 1.5 t x 37500 rub/ton | 56250 rub. |
| foundation blocks FBS 24-3-6: | |
| 36 pcs. x 2360 rub./pc. | 84960 rub. |
| cement-sand mixture: | |
| 1 m³ x 2700 rub/m³ | 2700 rub. |
| coniferous board for formwork: | |
| 1.1 m³ x 6500 rub/m³ | 7150 rub. |
| roofing material RKK-350: | |
| 3 rolls x 315 rubles/roll (10m²) | 945 rub. |
| TOTAL: on the foundation | 282105 rub. |
| COVERS: | |
| wooden bars 150x50; 170x100; 150x100: | |
| 2.6 m³ x 7000 rub/m³ | 18200 rub. |
| Knauf drywall boards (2500x1200x10): | |
| 16 pcs. x 260 rub./pc. | 4160 rub. |
| metal profile with fasteners: | |
| 132.5 l.m x 51 rub./l.m | 6758 rub. |
| mineral wool insulation (Rockwool): | |
| 11.4 m³ x 3700 rub/m³ | 42180 rub. |
| : | |
| 110 m² x 68 rubles/m² | 7480 rub. |
| polyethylene vapor barrier film: | |
| 110 m² x 11 rubles/m² | 1210 rub. |
| plywood sheets FK 1525x1525x18: | |
| 0.8 m³ x 19000 rub/m³ | 15200 rub. |
| subfloor board: | |
| 0.9 m³ x 6500 rub/m³ | 5850 rub. |
| TOTAL: by floors | 101038 rub. |
| ROOF: | |
| pine beams (150x50mm): | |
| 2.4 m³ x 7000 rub/m³ | 16800 rub. |
| wood protection composition: | |
| 35 l x 75 rubles/liter | 2625 rub. |
| waterproofing film (Tyvek Soft): | |
| 107 m² x 68 rubles/m² | 7276 rub. |
| onduline corrugated sheet 2000х950х2.7: | |
| 62 sheets x 399 rubles/sheet | 24738 rub. |
| roofing nails 73x3mm: | |
| 14 pack. x 190 rubles / pack (250 pcs.) | 2660 rub. |
| corner ridge (1000mm): | |
| 10 pieces. x 290 rub./pc. | 2900 rub. |
| lathing board 100x25mm: | |
| 0.9 m³ x 7000 rub/m³ | 6300 rub. |
10:0,0,0,260;0,290,260,260;290,290,260,0;290,0,0,0|5:171,171,0,260;0,171,111,111;171,290,160,160|1134:220,160|1334:146,39;146,122|2255:0,155|2155:65,0;65,260;206,260|2422:290,50;290,99|1934:211,-20
RUB 739,542.0
Only for the Moscow region!
Calculation of the cost of work
Do you want to know how much it costs to build your house and choose contractors?
Place an express application and get offers from professional builders!
Layout example 8x7 m for calculation |
Structural scheme |
|
 |
1.
Wooden beam 150x150mm; 2. slab mineral insulation d=100mm; 3. plastic siding; 4. Ventilation gap d=20-50mm; 7. Floor beams d=150-250mm; 8. Ondulin roof; 9. Foundation from a monolithic concrete slab and prefabricated blocks h = 1.8m; |
|
Wall made of timber material with siding profile trim and internal heat insulator
timber wall
The features of wooden-beam housing have been proven to neutralize toxic substances, automatically adjust the amount of humidity in the range of 45-55%, and also have a beneficial effect on the psyche of residents.The popularity of wooden-log architecture in our country is predetermined by the economy, tradition and healthy environment of housing construction from a natural array.
At construction bases, it is possible to meet lumber products of sizes 150x100, 200x150, 100x100, 140x140, 180x180, 150x150, 120x120, of which the 150x150 type is the most purchased, as it provides an optimal combination of installation labor intensity, given by the number of horizontal seams, and thermal insulation qualities, as well as affordable price.
It should be added that now the share of sales of profiled, in particular, prefabricated glued timber, is clearly growing, which is characterized, compared to non-glued wood, by 10 times lower compressibility during drying, as well as increased, due to studded joints, structural and thermal insulation qualities . An obvious negative point that slows down the widespread use of glued laminated lumber is its significant cost, which, however, is compensated a hundredfold by its long service life.
An approximate procedure for laying a log cabin:
- First, on the top of the foundation, covered with waterproof material, along the line of the walls, the lower beam row is laid out, which is tied up “in a paw” at the corners and at the points of attachment of intermediate walls.
- To door and window structures not deformed during the shrinkage of a wooden house, door and window niches are surrounded on the sides with a "pigtail" - rack-profiles. To do this, a trapezoidal spike is cut out at the ends of the logs, on which, with the help of a reciprocal cutout, the named profiled beams are pushed. At the top of doors and windows, technological slots are arranged, laid with flax-jute or basalt insulation.
- During the installation of the log house, the log rows are covered with an inter-row compactor: felt, jute, flax jute, hemp, flax, tow, which a year later (or when the moisture content of the tree becomes 12-15 percent) will have to be re-compacted a second time in order to reduce heat loss through the gaps between logs.
- In order to connect the beams of the near crowns, dowel fastening is used (rounded birch or oak rods with a diameter of Ø30-40 mm), which are inserted with a gap into holes made through three crowns of the beams, in increments of 0.3 ... 0.4 m. Often, the dowel fastening is replaced with large nails (250 ... 300 mm), with obligatory drilling in the last log of the channel, 30 ÷ 40 mm deep, where the nail head is buried, to compensate for the linear compression of the wooden material during drying.
- When choosing interior decoration be aware of the constant deformation of the wooden material and, when fixing non-wood facing boards (eg drywall), avoid direct connections to the timber wall, by means of suspended buffer profile structures.
siding cladding
In the case when winter habitation is expected, it is recommended that the timber structure is also thermally insulated. Usually, from the street side, in a vertical position, thick boards are mounted, 100x50 mm in size, with a step of 0.4 ... -125, PPZH-200, Ursa, Knauf, Izorok, after that a vapor-permeable film (Tyvek, Yutavek, Izospan) is stretched, lined with blocks, 25-50 mm thick, along which a false front wall is installed (PVC siding, wooden lining or DSP boards).
You need to know that PVC siding profile will be used for many years and have a beautiful appearance, only under the condition of strict observance of the installation rules.
Manufacturers of plastic siding profiles, such as brands: Snowbird, Gentek, Docke, Nordside, AltaProfile, Ortho, Holzplast, Tecos, Varitek, Georgia Pacific, Mitten, FineBer, Vytec, announce a rich color scheme allowing any structure to retain its individuality.
Since the PVC siding profile changes linear dimensions very strongly with temperature fluctuations, it is important to provide for non-rigid attachment of vinyl plates.
Polyvinyl chloride siding does not rot, is resistant to shock, biological, climatic aggression, does not support combustion.
The vinyl profile under the influence of an open flame only melts, igniting when heated to more than 390 ° C (moreover, the tree is already at 230-260 ° C), quickly extinguishing when the heating source disappears, while the amount of emissions hazardous to health is no more significant than during the combustion of materials from wood.
Important points for fixing PVC siding:
- Installation of PVC panels is carried out "from the ground", and, at first, a hidden initial strip is fixed.
- To compensate for free compressions or expansions of polymer siding, slots should be provided, within 1 cm, in the input areas of external networks (pipes, wires, brackets, cables), as well as in docking areas plastic panel and accessories (outer corner, inner corner, H-profile, trim, etc.).
- It is unacceptable to tighten the self-tapping screws with force in the fixing grooves, because the siding profiles are suspended in such a way as to move freely from side to side.
- In order not to interfere with thermal shifts and, accordingly, not to provoke wave-like warping of the vinyl material, it is more correct to screw in self-tapping screws and nail nails into the siding panel to the central point of the existing technological perforations.
- When hanging the next strip of siding, dock it behind the trailing ledge with the underlying profile and, without deforming, fix it with screws;
- It is recommended to install vinyl profiles starting from the side wall of the building, moving to the front side, while each next siding panel will overlap the previous one in the stacked row, approximately 2.5-3 cm - this approach makes it possible to make inconspicuous joints, with for the same purpose, the arising joints, for connecting rows, must be shifted horizontally.
Foundation made of reinforced concrete slab and prefabricated block tape
The prefabricated slab foundation is constructed over the entire area of the structure in the form of a solid reinforced slab, on which standard reinforced concrete blocks are mounted.
The considered type of foundation is used in low-rise housing construction to obtain the basement level of the house, on heterogeneous soils, in a situation of low groundwater levels. On swampy areas, it is recommended to carry out the side walls of the foundation using a monolithic method, using waterproof measures (coating, impregnation, gluing).
At the same time, the prefabricated block system of vertical foundation walls, based on an existing reinforced concrete slab, is indispensable with limited construction time, as well as in the production of foundation work in winter.
An exemplary method for making a solid-slab foundation with side walls in the form of a prefabricated reinforced concrete tape:
- At the beginning, the land is removed to the planned mark.
- Gravel preparation is poured onto the resulting sub-base, fractions 20-40, with a layer of 15-20 cm, and carefully compacted.
- Concrete pouring is carried out, with a layer of 50 mm.
- A waterproofing film is applied with an offset of 2000 mm along the border, in order to further waterproof the foundation sidewalls.
- To protect the waterproofing membrane from accidental ruptures during welding of the reinforcing structure, another layer of sand-cement mortar, 5 cm thick, is applied over the insulating coating, along the perimeter of which formwork panels are mounted along the thickness of the foundation slab.
- Manufactured foundation slab tighten from the inside with two meshes of welded reinforcing bars of section d14 of type AII-AIII with cells of 20x20 cm.
- In the case of a slab foundation, ready-made concrete is required, grades not lower than M300, supplied by an automixer.
- The period of hardening of the concrete mortar, when the perimeter of ready-made concrete blocks should be laid out, is from 4 weeks, at a temperature of + 15 ± 5 °.
- Concrete blocks are laid relative to the center lines, along two mutually perpendicular walls, guided by geodetic equipment. Prefabricated blocks are laid with a crane on a "bed" of sand-cement mortar.
- The installation begins with the laying of lighthouse blocks at the crosshairs of the axes and at the corners of the building. The laying of wall blocks is started only after the alignment of the position of the landmark blocks along the horizon and level.
- On the top row of reinforced concrete blocks, in a panel formwork form, a reinforced reinforced concrete screed is made, 25 cm thick.
Covering from wooden beams
For beam ceilings, wood is traditionally used. coniferous varieties(spruces, pines, larches), with a moisture content of less than 14 percent. The best beam is a bar with section proportions 7/5 (for example, 0.14x0.10 m).
IN cottage construction wooden beam floors are especially common, due to the simplicity and low cost of their construction.
When planning a wood-beam floor, it is necessary to use special diagrams that determine the correlation of the beam dimensions from the distance between the supports and the load; it is also permissible to build on the simplified calculation that the wide side of the beam should be approximately 1/24 of the beam length, and the thickness should be 5 ÷ 10 cm, with intervals between beam boards of 50 - 100 cm and a load of 1.5 kPa.
With a deficit of a lag of the calculated section, it is permissible to use boards tightened with bolts, subject to the obligatory observance of the total size.
Some features of the installation of wood beams:
- The installation of beams is done in the following order: first, the first and last, and then, with leveling at the optical level, all the others. The bars should be wound onto the wall structure no shorter than 150-200 mm.
- From the wall, the logs move the smallest by 50 mm, and the indent between the beams and smoke channel must be at least 0.40 m.
- in wooden buildings, the ends of the lag are hemmed in the shape of a cone, and then they are hammered into the completed drank of the upper crown to the full thickness of the wall log.
- As a rule, in brick walls, the ends of the beams are installed in masonry nests, in which condensate appears, therefore, between the cut ends of the log and the wall, they leave space for air circulation, and with a significant depth of the opening, an additional felt layer is placed.
- To avoid mold, which occurs when steam diffuses into the environment brick wall, the ends of the beam boards are cut with an inclination of about 60 degrees, treated with an antiseptic (Tikkurila, Kartocide, Dulux, Biofa, Pinotex, Tex, Cofadex, Biosept, KSD, Holzplast, Senezh, Teknos, Aquatex) and covered with roofing paper, leaving the end open.
The attic floor is insulated with the implementation of a vapor barrier layer under the insulation, the basement floor is thermally insulated with the installation of a vapor barrier film on top of the insulation layer, and the interfloor ceiling is not subject to insulation.
If the issue of the load capacity of wooden interfloor ceilings is mainly settled by the method of an obvious increase in the cross section of the beams and their number, then the situation with fire resistance and acoustic insulation is somewhat more complicated.
One of the options for improving the soundproof and fireproof performance of timber interlevel ceilings consists of the following steps:
- To the bottom of the beam beams, perpendicular to them, with the help of elastic holders, after 30-40 cm, bars-sheathing are installed, on which gypsum boards are attached from below.
- On the upper surface of the resulting lattice structure, a fiberglass film is laid and attached with a stapler to the beams, on which mineral fiber plates are tightly laid out, such as: Izorok, Ursa, Isover, Knauf, Izomin, Rockwool, with a layer of 50 mm, with a transition to the side faces of the beams.
- In rooms of the next level, a layer of chipboard (16 ÷ 25 mm) is nailed to the beams, after that, a hard mineral fiber sound absorber (25 ÷ 30 mm), and chipboard boards of the "floating" floor are laid again.
Bituminous slate roof
Soft slate (aka, ondulin slate, ondulin, euroslate, bituminous slate, bituminous slate), in fact, is a molded cardboard-cellulose material, fixed with a distilled bitumen compound and colored with a polymer, UV-resistant, coloring composition. bituminous slate is made under various brands (Bituwell, Aqualine, Nuline, Onduline, Guttanit, Ondura, Corrubit). The usual dimensions of corrugated sheets are 2000x950, the number of waves is 10.
The main qualities of bituminous slate roofing are the speed of construction and affordable cost. In part weaknesses, it is worth mentioning a rather short-lived loss of color vibrancy, as well as a noticeable combustibility of bitumen-cardboard material, compared to metal tiles.
The roofing material is laid on a solid base made of a sheathing layer and rafters.
In the case of private buildings, a two- or three-span structure with intermediate supporting walls and inclined rafters is usually used.
The interval between the rafter legs is usually performed in the range of 0.60 ... 0.90 m with a width / thickness rafter legs 5x15 ... 10x15 cm; the supporting ends of the rafter beams are fixed to a fixing beam measuring 100x100 ... 150x150 mm.
- The transverse overlap of the bituminous slate sheets and the frequency of laying the sheathing are determined by the slope roof slope: if the angle is more than 15 degrees, then the gap between the boards of the crate structure is set to 0.30 ... 0.35 m, and the overlap is 17 centimeters.
- It is better to fasten corrugated sheets of ondulin from the lower zone of the lateral part of the slope, opposite to the leeward side, to protect them from wrapping during hurricane loads.
- The next layer is laid with a shift of half a canvas, from the canvases of the underlying tier, in order to avoid unnecessary layering in the joints of four adjacent sheets, which contributes to the formation of leaks.
- Sheets of euroslate are fixed along the lower edge into each crest of the wave, along two intermediate crate boards into odd crests of the wave, and the top is covered with an overlap of the upper sheet or a ridge detail. To fix each corrugated sheet, about twenty roofing self-cutting screws (size 65.0x5.5 mm) or nails are enough: length / diameter -73.5 / 3.0 mm with elastomeric washers.
- Ordinary overlapping of canvases is enough to arrange in one wave, and with a roof slope of less than 10-11 degrees. - in 2 corrugated waves.
- The ridge is strengthened from the side of laying corrugated sheets, with an overlap of 0.2 m, with screws screwed into each corrugation vertex of the underlying corrugated fabric.
- In order to protect and decorate the side sections of the roof slope, chip profiles are used, the fixing of which starts from the corner above the eaves, overlapping by 0.2 m.
Of course, during construction it is very important to correctly calculate the right amount of materials. After all, each log costs a lot of money, and its transportation is associated with certain difficulties. And if an error was made in the calculations, this can lead to serious difficulties. Our online lumber calculator will help you do this online.
With a lack of material, you have to interrupt the construction process, and wait until the timber is delivered in the right amount. If too much timber was bought, then there will be a few extra logs, the money for which was thrown to the wind.
But if, when calculating, you use a calculator to calculate the amount of timber, you will get the most accurate result. It is also important that the calculator is very easy to use, thanks to which even an inexperienced person will be able to carry out the necessary calculations in the shortest possible time.
First you need to enter the approximate dimensions of the future house - the height, length and width of the walls. Of course, to know this data, you need to have
Only then will you be able to use accurate data.
The next step is to choose the length of the beam. The beam can have different lengths, usually from 5 to 12 meters. This allows you to choose the optimal length for any project without overpaying extra money and without wasting time connecting two elements.
The last stage is an indication of the cross section of the beam.
In private construction, a bar with a section from 150x150 to 200x200 is usually used. Choice suitable timber depends on the desire and capabilities of the future owner of the house. 
But it is worth noting that the thicker the timber, the better heat and sound insulation characteristics it will have. However, at the same time, the cost also increases. building material. So, you should seriously approach the choice of material so that it meets not only your requirements, but also its cost does not make the material inaccessible to you.
