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How to finish the bath from the inside to get a corner of coziness and comfort. Finishing the bath from the inside: the necessary minimum work before operating the steam room Finishing work in the bath

Building a bath is a complex, expensive and long-term process. Interior decoration requires a special approach. Most of this work can be done by hand. It is necessary to carefully choose finishing materials, the comfort of bath procedures depends on it. Here are tips on finishing, photos of the steam room, washing and other rooms of the bath inside.

How and what is better to finish the steam room

The steam room is considered the most difficult and demanding for the selection of material. This is where the highest temperature and humidity will be. Given this, it is necessary to stop the choice of finishing materials only on natural raw materials.

Plastic is definitely excluded from the list options. In a steam room, it can cause serious harm to health. Tiles for this room also cannot be used. When heated, it is capable of cracking; touching a very hot ceramic surface can cause serious burns.

The most widely used material for finishing the steam room is wood. It is preferable to use only hardwood lining. Because the board is coniferous species trees release resin when heated. Contact with it is very dangerous with burns. For a steam room, it is better to choose one of the following types of wood:

Linden;
ash;
Birch;
alder;
maple;
aspen.

Advice. Although larch belongs to the coniferous tree species, it is great for cladding a steam room.

These tree species are somewhat different in properties, complexity of processing and appearance. Their cost, manufacturing technology of the finishing board and other parameters also vary. But they are united by a number of important characteristics for a bath, such as:

Resistant to hot steam and humidity.
Uniform, moderate heating without danger of burns.
Hygiene.
Practicality.
Durability.
Healing properties.
Hypoallergenic.
Durability.
Decorative.

The quality of lining for the steam room should be the highest. It is desirable to select material without knots, defects and other natural flaws. The processing of the board is also very great importance. Since the operating conditions of the premises are characterized by serious loads, the sheathing should not swell at high humidity and not dry out when the bath is not heated.

Do-it-yourself washing room decoration

Slightly less stringent requirements are imposed on the finishing of the washing room than on the arrangement of the steam room. But although there are no such high temperatures in this room, the humidity is always very high. Thus, finishing materials may not differ in the features of heating without burns, but moisture resistance is a mandatory criterion. Experienced bath attendants advise here to give preference to natural, environmentally friendly, breathable materials. Wood can boast of these properties, for example, good quality lining. But other materials are also often used, for example:

a rock;
tile;
plastic.

Plastic finishing materials must be approached with extreme caution. They should only be High Quality preferably certified. Since in the conditions of a bath, heated plastic can exude far from the most pleasant smell, or even release toxins.

The choice of wood for finishing the washing is much wider than for the steam room. Here it is quite possible to apply conifers. The temperature in this room is no longer so high as to provoke the release of resin. Pine is one of the most available materials among analogues. It has many advantages. For example, such wood contains phytoncides, which are very beneficial for health. Coniferous smell has a healing effect on nervous system, heart, lungs. But with intensive use of the bath, the pine lining may lose its decorative effect. Its pleasant color is able to darken.

The better to finish the rest room in the bath

When choosing the type of finish for a given room, you can pay more attention to the design side than the practical one. Although, of course, the material must meet a number of requirements:

environmental friendliness;
ease of cleaning;
aesthetics;
durability.

The floors in this room must be very well fitted so that it is pleasant to walk on them barefoot. The Russian tradition involves the use of wood in the decoration of recreation areas. But this is not prerequisite. You just need to remember that high humidity is maintained in all areas of the bath, even in the rest room. Along with wood, you can give preference to the following materials:

porcelain stoneware;
decorative plaster;
natural stone;
glass wall papers.

It is advisable to take care of powerful ventilation even at the stage of designing and building a bath. Healthy air circulation must also be ensured in the rest room. The very atmosphere of the room is designed in such a way that everything in it is conducive to relaxation and rest.

Advice. It is better not to use linoleum in the bath. Despite its practicality, this synthetic material is able to release harmful substances and quickly break down at high temperature and humidity.

Much attention should be paid not only to the decoration of the walls, but also to the ceiling. Be sure to use high-quality vapor barrier. The ceiling next to the stove is additionally insulated with a metal sheet.

When using wood as a finishing material, it is important to bring it into the room in advance. Preferably two days before the start of work. This simple technique will allow the lining not to swell so much in high humidity and not crack when dried. While the material is resting, you can proceed with the installation of the crate. Most often, it is arranged from a bar 50 x 50. But you can also use a metal profile. The standard batten spacing is 70 cm. It may vary depending on the finish used.

An important step is thermal insulation. For a bath, it is by no means impossible to neglect good insulation. A layer of waterproofing is also needed. The direction of lining can be both vertical and horizontal. The location of the crate should be perpendicular to the sheathing boards. It is recommended not to use ordinary nails for fastening. They can quickly rust and ruin thereby appearance finishes. It is better to purchase copper or brass studs.

Floors can be wooden, concrete, tiles are rarely laid. If any materials other than wood are used, gratings must be made to prevent burns and slips. If you decide to use tiles, it is better to choose a glazed bath type that has a rough surface.

Advice. It is better not to make the floor of the bath from oak boards. Although it is a very durable wood, it slips when wet. And under constant influence, steam can be somewhat bent.

Finishing the bath with your own hands will save a lot of money. And besides, you can be sure that everything is done with high quality, according to your own taste and all the little things are taken into account. Fastening the lining usually does not cause any particular difficulties and does not require special knowledge and skills. Such a board has locks and fits snugly to each other.

Interior decoration of the bath: video

Finishing the bath inside: photo

If you hire a team of specialists to finish the bath inside, then it will cost by no means cheap. And then we'll look at what it means interior decoration do-it-yourself baths in stages.

Of course, the material is expensive and the work is painstaking, but you can save at least several times. The main thing is to choose the right quality material and know the technology.

First you need to know and understand that the decoration of baths plays a special role:

The service life of the bath significantly extends.
Protects people from burns due to heated walls.
It plays an important role in decoration.

The main stage - the choice of finishing material

For the interior decoration of the bath, all materials must have the following qualities:

Resistant to high humidity and water ingress.
Durability and strength.
Hygiene.
Pleasant to the eye color and decorative effect.
No burns and allergies in contact with human skin.
100% toxin free.

Naturally, in this regard, a tree is ideal, which has all of the above qualities, easily gives and absorbs moisture, is completely safe and environmentally friendly for the human body.

But good finish do-it-yourself baths inside - this is a high-quality lining in the first place. After all, if you buy it overdried and do not even keep it in the bath itself for a day, it will begin to swell during the procedures, due to the fact that it is saturated with water and increases in volume. And when buying raw, large gaps will appear after shrinkage.

Steam room, the better to finish

If we talk about the steam room, then the decoration inside the bath with your own hands in it, as a rule, was carried out using hardwood:

Poplar.
Linden.
Larch.
Aspen.
Birch.

Because as soon as this wood does not heat up during the heat and does not emit resins. Plus, when airing the bath, it dries pretty quickly, and therefore it is not threatened by fungus. Often, steam rooms and saunas are sheathed with ash from the inside - this is a material that is resistant and resistant to decay and has good durability..

Floor finish

All interior work should begin with flooring. If it is wooden, then first of all it is necessary to lay log logs from one wall to another. The floor must be made leaky so that the water goes into the ground underneath.

If you want, then lay tiles on it. Tiles begin to be laid from the corner that catches the eye first. The tile is laid on a special tile adhesive, then leveled and pressed tightly, it is recommended to use separating crosses between the tiles, after drying they are easy to remove.

Ceiling and wall decoration

It is necessary to protect moisture with a vapor barrier material, reinforcing it with wooden slats. Then you should do air cushion, between the lining and the vapor barrier, small bars are suitable for this.

The outlet of the pipe in the ceiling must be lined with iron or brick in order to prevent a possible fire. Choose boards for ceiling sheathing with a thickness of 20-30 mm.

Walls after complete shrinkage of the bath can be caulked where there are cracks. After that, it is possible to lay thermal insulation (polystyrene foam, foam plastic, chipboard, fiberboard), and vapor barrier (foil materials or plastic film).

Use high-quality lining for wall cladding inside. Adjust the boards to each other tightly, pinning them vertically.

Experienced attendants for washing are advised to use spruce lining, it has a pleasant orange color and resistance to moisture.

Although the most diverse material is suitable for finishing the washing:

Drywall.
Tile.
Gypsum fiber.
Moisture resistant fiberboard.

Here everyone chooses according to his taste.

Living room decoration

In the bath, pine trim is used, in the rest room and in the washing room - the temperature there is relatively low. She has the most different colour- from reddish to pale yellow, availability and ease of processing, and high strength in quality.

And what’s good is those resins, because of which it cannot be used in a steam room, make this material especially resistant to damage and decay. In addition, pine is easy to polish, paint and varnish.

It is also possible to make interior decoration with spruce clapboard in recent times it has become much better in terms of moisture resistance and strength. In addition, there is much less resin in spruce than in pine, but it is also more difficult to process.

Note!
Pine lining cannot be used in a steam room, due to its excessive heating and resin release on the surface.

Finishing process step by step

Stage 1. It is necessary to bring everything required for finishing into the bath and leave it there for at least a day so that the material acclimatizes.
Stage 2. Make a crate of bars for lining.
Stage 3. Installation of steam and heat insulation.
Stage 4. Installation wooden panels- from linden, aspen or other hardwoods.

Even at high temperatures, these panels will not leave burns on human skin, moreover, at high heat, they release substances useful for the body into the air. They can be mounted horizontally, vertically and diagonally.

For their fastening, special copper or bronze nails are needed, since the usual ones will quickly rust due to high humidity, the installation is carried out by inserting into the panel groove.

We hope that this little guide will help you in the future.

Summarize

So we have considered how to finish the bath on our own and its price will be much lower. If something is not clear, we recommend that you watch the video in this article.

Baths in our time, in addition to wood, are built from different materials- it can be, for example, a brick or gas silicate blocks. Nevertheless, natural wood has been and remains the traditional material for the construction and decoration of baths. Only she, thanks to her natural properties, is able to create a favorable microclimate in these specific rooms. Therefore, we can safely say that there is simply no reasonable alternative to this material for lining bath rooms.

Finishing a bath inside with a clapboard with your own hands is a completely doable operation, accessible even for a novice builder, if you know the sequence of work and follow the technological recommendations. There are, of course, their own peculiarities, nuances and subtleties associated both with the specifics of bath rooms, which must be borne in mind when choosing high-quality material and during installation work.

The choice of wooden lining for lining the bath inside

Wood intended for finishing bath rooms must endure conditions of high humidity, frequent and sudden changes in temperature. Therefore, when choosing a material for such purposes, it is necessary to rely on certain criteria, such as the type of wood, the type of board and the type of lining according to the shape of the profile.

For wall cladding, lining made of both coniferous and hardwood wood can be used, and the choice of material largely depends on which particular bath room it will be used in. For example, for a steam sauna or a Russian bath, hardwood is most often used, since when heated, it does not produce resinous secretions, which can easily be burned.

So, the most popular species for finishing bath rooms are cedar, alder, oak, ash, linden, as well as exotic wood of African abashi.

Illustration	Brief description of material properties
	Linden. Experts consider this material to be the most suitable for sheathing the walls of the steam room, so it is he who is most often used for this purpose. Linden has a porous structure, which means it has a low density, so the wood does not overheat at high temperatures in the steam room. Possessing therapeutic essential oils in its composition, when heated, wood releases them into the air, which is good for the prevention of respiratory diseases. Linden wood has practically no knots, has pleasant soft shades without sharp transitions. When the material is used in conditions of high humidity, this wood does not change color and aroma for a very long time. However, the porosity of linden is not only its advantage, but also its disadvantage, as it absorbs moisture well. Therefore, the room, lined with linden clapboard, must be equipped with good ventilation and left for ventilation after the reception is completed. water procedures.
	Aspen has a hard wood, but it is well processed. Due to the density of the structure, it is resistant to steam penetration, that is, a well-sanded surface does not absorb moisture. If the raw materials for the lining were properly prepared, then such a finish will be durable, since pests will not be afraid of it, and under the influence of moisture, the wood will become stronger. Aspen has healing properties and good energy, it raises the tone, relieves fatigue and headaches, and also helps to raise immunity. In addition, this wood has antiseptic properties, so earlier wells were built from aspen logs, the water in them did not become cloudy and did not bloom, remaining crystal clear for many decades. Many craftsmen choose aspen lining for lining the steam room because of its resistance to high temperatures and moisture.
	Alder has a pleasant golden-orange, and sometimes pink color, which seems to radiate warmth. According to its characteristics, this wood is excellent for facing the surfaces of both dry and wet bath rooms. Alder does not require antiseptic treatment, as its wood contains antibacterial substances. Due to the same property, bacteria, mold, insects do not start in it. Alder has general strengthening properties and has a beneficial effect on human health. From the technical characteristics, low thermal conductivity and high water resistance of wood can be distinguished, so it does not deform and practically does not change its geometry at any temperature. Properly harvested alder is not subject to decay, therefore, like aspen, it was used for the construction of log cabins for wells.
	Cedar- this is probably the ideal wood for cladding bath rooms, but it is rather infrequently chosen for this purpose only for the reason that products from it have a rather high price. Cedar has bactericidal properties, that is, it is able to purify indoor air, as well as antiseptic qualities, which makes its service life quite long, even in a steam room. Cedar lining has a reddish-pink hue, which gives the interior a rich, respectable appearance. Cedar has a pleasant aroma and such positive qualities as high strength and moisture resistance.
	Larch it has high hardness and brittleness, therefore, certain skills are required to install a lining made from it, since the board can split. When heated, larch emits a pleasant aroma and, despite the fact that it belongs to coniferous species, emits a minimum amount of resinous substances and does not overheat. Wood is not afraid of moisture and only becomes stronger over time, but without additional processing it quickly loses its natural color. Due to its inherent characteristics, larch is suitable not only for wall and ceiling cladding, but also for arranging the floor in the bath. In addition, this material is used not only for internal, but also for external wall cladding.
	Hemlock or Hemlock is a Canadian conifer evergreen tree. Lining made from it is in constant demand, since hemlock wood is resistant to aggressive factors, such as moisture and temperature changes - it does not deform and does not rot. Thanks to these qualities, this material is widely used even in shipbuilding, as well as for facade decoration and the construction of gazebos. The structure of the hemlock has a moderate hardness and rigidity, therefore it is resistant to mechanical stress. Wood does not overheat, so hemlock lining is well suited for wall cladding in a steam bath. Hemlock is also suitable for this room because its wood contains essential oils used in medicine and the perfume industry, and when heated in a steam room, these substances enter the air, flavoring and disinfecting it. The texture of the wood has a uniform pattern and color, but its shades can vary from light gray to light brown.
	Abashi- This is an African oak, which can have a height of 40 and a thickness of up to 3 meters. Its wood can be yellow, straw or light cream in color. The advantages of this material for lining bath rooms include its qualities such as low thermal conductivity and density, ease of processing, high strength, resistance to deformation processes, absence of knots and other defects, aesthetic and noble appearance. The biggest drawback of this finishing material can be called a very high price and a small assortment of lining on the Russian market.
	Pine- this is the most popular type of wood used for finishing bath rooms, due to its maximum availability. This lining is very widely used for cladding rooms in the bath. However, it should be noted that when heated, pine begins to actively release not only essential healthy oils, but also resinous substances that can cause burns. Therefore, it is recommended to use pine lining for a washing room, dressing room or rest room, that is, where the air temperature is relatively moderate. Pine is able to create a healthy microclimate in the room, emitting the aroma of the forest, and also maintain a normal level of humidity. The lining has an aesthetic appearance and long term service in rooms with normal humidity, which is estimated up to 50 years. Affordable price and positive characteristics of pine wood make it the most demanded in comparison with other materials of this series. The disadvantages of lining can be called its relative hygroscopicity and low resistance to temperature extremes, which leads to deformation processes in the boards. In addition, fungus in the form of bluish spots may appear in the wood structure. That is why it is not recommended to use pine lining for finishing a steam room.
	Oak has always been famous for its strength and density of wood, characterized by a high content of tannins. The lining made of this material will not only create an aesthetic and rich interior in the bath room, but will also fill its air with ethereal substances that suppress pathogenic microflora. Oak wood is resistant to mold and decay processes, has high moisture resistance and is practically inert to very high and low temperatures. Therefore, an oak board is perfect for finishing both a steam room and any other bath rooms. The color palette of this lining is very diverse and depends on many factors, in particular on the place where the tree grows. The overall color can vary from light milky to dark brown.

Clapboard classification

All wooden lining divided into classes, depending on its quality. There are certain criteria by which they are determined.

"Prima", "Extra" or "Premium" - this is the highest class of facing material, so it differs in the most best quality from the entire line of similar finishes. The wood selected for the manufacture of extra-class lining should not have knots, black and blue spots and stripes, as well as other flaws. The board should be distinguished by a monochromatic shade and an even textured pattern.
Class "A" (first grade) - such a lining is also considered a high-quality finishing material. However, minor flaws are allowed on it - these are knots with a frequency of no more than one piece per one and a half linear meters of the board.
Class "B" (second grade) - this version of the lining is already of lower quality, since the presence of a resin pocket on the boards is allowed, no more than 2 cracks, slight mechanical damage, and the number of knots increases to four per one and a half running meters.
Class "C" (third grade) - is the most affordable finishing material of this type, which may have various damages. It is unacceptable to use such natural lining for finishing any bath rooms, since the service life of such boards, in conditions of high humidity and temperature changes, will be very short. In this case, the owners will soon have to dismantle the old cladding, and then acquire high-quality material and refinish.

Standard lining parameters

You should never neglect the norms prescribed by the current GOSTs, which are designed to ensure human safety, as well as the longest possible operation of the material used. The norms are based on the study of the characteristics of wood and on certain calculations of the impact of aggressive external factors on it.

According to the established standards, for facing the walls of the bath rooms, the thickness of the lining boards should be from 12 to 25 mm. The use of thinner boards of material, given the operating conditions, would be unwise. The main parameters of the lining are set in several normative documents, which include:

GOST 8486-86 "Sawn softwood".
GOST 8242-88 "Profile parts made of wood for construction". This standard establishes the dimensions of the lining, which varies in width from 45 to 120 mm, and in thickness from 13 to 16 mm. Deviation tolerances are also established: in thickness and width no more than 1 mm, and in straightness - a deviation of no more than 3 mm per 1000 mm of length.
DIN 68126/86 is a European industrial standard.

These documents do not regulate the length of the board. But in practice, it usually ranges from 2000 to 6000 mm, which is explained by the convenience of packaging, transportation and installation.

Varieties of lining according to the profile

There are a lot of different lining profiles, but the most used are those shown in the illustration below. It would be more accurate to say that the relief that such boards form when sheathing a wall is in fashion today.

For example, today it is rare to find facades or walls of rooms decorated with clapboard, shown in the following illustration. But, one way or another, these options were also in vogue (and some will like it now), and they were milled individually.

It is clear that such profiles are more complex in execution, which predetermines the high price of such "piece" products. Therefore, today, consumers most often choose standards produced on an industrial scale.

According to statistics, the most popular model of facing material for interior work, in particular, for cladding the walls of a bath, is the so-called "evrovonka". From other types of lining, this version of the boards is distinguished by its higher quality, deep connecting grooves, the presence of a special anti-deformation ventilation gap, and “solid” dimensions in height and width.

Although lining the walls with clapboard is a fairly simple and understandable process, but, as with the installation of any other material, there are some nuances in such work, which are best known in advance.

Prices for lining

When the lining is calculated for lining the internal surfaces of the bath, it is also necessary to take into account the mandatory stock. The sum of the areas of all surfaces to be finished must be divided by the area of one panel (this parameter is usually indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer). The resulting number of panels must be increased by another 15÷20% - this will become a reserve for inevitable waste when cutting and fitting the material.
When sheathing steam rooms and washing rooms, that is, those where the surfaces will be in direct contact with water, the boards are fixed on the walls vertically or diagonally, in order to prevent moisture from entering the connecting grooves. In the dressing room or rest room, the lining can be fixed in any orientation, as the owner of this bath prefers.
The frame of the crate for lining, fixed in the bath rooms, must be made of wooden beam. A metal profile or other material is absolutely not suitable for this purpose.

Fixing the lining on the crate is done with nails, 15 ÷ 20 mm long, which must be skillfully driven into the groove of the lock. A simple, but careless movement can easily damage the surface of the board or the integrity of the lock connection. Another mounting option involves the use of clamps, which are put on the bottom shelf of the connecting groove of the board, and through it a nail or self-tapping screw is driven (screwed) into the frame guide.

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Processing lining with protective equipment

No matter how resistant wood is to moisture, it is still recommended to protect it from aggressive environmental influences. Today there are many various means, which will create a protective coating and will not adversely affect the health of people taking water and steam procedures. Here it is immediately necessary to clarify that for this purpose it will be necessary to purchase specially designed solutions designed for operation under certain conditions.

In the steam room, you cannot use any materials of your choice for surface treatment. Many of the protective coatings clog the pores of the wood, preventing it from “breathing”, and are also unable to withstand high temperatures and moisture. In addition, when heated, some formulations are capable of releasing toxic fumes and unpleasant odors which may be hazardous to human health.

Specialized ones will not only prevent damage to wood by putrefactive processes and the appearance of harmful insects, but will also facilitate sanitary and hygienic operations for mandatory regular cleaning of premises. In addition, protective agents will help preserve the original color and quality of wood.

Previously, natural wax, hemp or linseed oil were used to process lining boards. Today, experts consider special materials made by Finnish and Russian manufacturers to be the most effective.

Acrylic varnish prices

acrylic lacquer

For example, foreign and Russian companies offer to protect wood used in steam rooms, acrylic-based varnish. This solution creates on the surface protective film, which repels water falling on it, capable of withstanding the influence of temperatures of 100 ÷ 120 degrees, and also perfectly resists the appearance of mold and fungus. This composition is applied at a positive temperature, not lower than five degrees, on a well-polished lining cleaned from dust and dirt.

When working, the wood must be dry, and acrylic composition applied to it in two layers. If a colored varnish is chosen, then 20% of water from the total volume of the solution is usually added to it. Colorless varnish, as a rule, is not diluted.

Domestic manufacturers produce compositions in the form of a colorless water-based varnish and wax. This composition creates a water-repellent film, extending the life of the bath lining. The components of such a protective agent also include antiseptic substances that resist mold and mildew. Solutions are an environmentally friendly material that does not emit toxic fumes at elevated temperatures. wooden walls rest rooms and a dressing room, experts recommend treating with a matte or semi-matt water varnish.

The masters did not refuse to protect the lining for the bath with linseed or other oil. plant origin, as it impregnates the wood structure well, creating a water-repellent layer. This type of treatment is especially well suited for wood species with high porosity. Before applying the oil, the lining is cleaned of dust, then the composition is heated to 50 ÷ 60 degrees. From 4 to 6 layers are applied to the surface of the wood, and when each layer dries, the wood is cleaned with sandpaper. Linseed oil can be used in pure form or tar or wax is added to it, which increase the effectiveness of the coating and prolong the original state of the product. Such impregnation of wood, taking into account the operating conditions in an aggressive environment, is recommended to be done once every 3-4 years.

Heaters for a bath under lining

As a rule, internal in order to preserve the heat received during the heating of the bath. However, not all insulation materials are suitable for baths and saunas, as they are not suitable for use in a sufficiently aggressive humid environment.

So, before purchasing a heater, it is necessary to clarify which thermal insulation materials can be used for. When choosing a heater, you should pay attention to the following criteria, which it must meet:

Ecological cleanliness, that is, the absence of toxic substances in the composition of the insulation.
Heat resistance, ensuring the fire safety of the room.
Low hygroscopicity, that is, the material should not absorb moisture.
Low thermal conductivity.
Resistance of the material structure to elevated operating temperatures.

The table below shows several heaters that are well suited for their qualities for thermal insulation of bath walls:

Illustration	Characteristic features of heaters
	Mineral wool - this insulation can be called traditional for installation in the insulating "pie" of the walls of the bath. However, it should be recalled that phenol-formaldehyde resins are used in the production of this material, which are a binder for cotton wool fibers. Resins, with increasing temperatures in the premises, can begin to release toxic substances that can cause irreparable harm to health. Therefore, instead of healing, a bath can bring a decrease in immunity, as well as a general weakening of the body. The manufacturer's certificates must indicate that the presence of these substances does not exceed the sanitary standards given in the GOST standards. Do not purchase goods of unknown brands - no one knows how the body of each person will react to this. The choice should be made in favor of basalt insulation from leading companies, and, in the operating recommendations, the possibility of using the material specifically for bath conditions should be stipulated. Such mineral wool insulation is inherently hydrophobic, and some products are produced with a foil reflective layer already applied. A striking example of a special basalt-based insulation is ROCKWOOL Sauna Butts, shown in the illustration.
	The very concept of "glass wool" does not fit well with the conditions of the bath. However, this is not the case at all if we are talking about the high-quality insulation "URSA PUREONE". No complaints about environmental cleanliness have been noted for this thermal insulation yet. The material belongs to a new generation of products, and it uses chemically neutral acrylic as a binder for the fibers, which does not enter into chemical reactions with any other substances, and therefore does not emit substances harmful to humans even under the most adverse operating conditions. In confirmation of this fact, we can cite the EUCEB certificate, which indicates the absolute environmental friendliness of the insulation. This material is M1 Eurofins certified by EcoStandard group.
	Foil polyurethane foam is modern material, which is used for insulation of any buildings, as it has excellent operational and thermal characteristics. "SPU Sauna-Satu" is a thermal insulation material from a Finnish manufacturer, which is great for insulating walls built of wood, brick, silicate or concrete blocks, as well as other materials. Polyurethane foam panels have a double-sided foil coating and have numerous positive qualities. These include environmental safety, the absolute absence of hygroscopicity (that is, the material does not absorb moisture at all), low thermal conductivity, almost half that of mineral wool. In addition, the material does not need a vapor barrier, as it has an external coating of aluminum foil. This completely eliminates the possibility of mold or other microflora appearing on its surface. Due to the small thickness of the insulation, it is easy to fix a wooden crate on top of it for mounting the lining. Rigidity and low mass of mats allow them to be glued to a wall built of any material without the use of a crate. If necessary, the foil on one side of the mat can be removed and pasted directly onto the polyurethane foam ceramic tiles. Due to the ease of installation of SPU Sauna-Satu, the warming of the bath can be carried out extremely quickly.
	Peat blocks are an environmentally friendly material made from crushed sawdust, small chips, straw and other natural components, which are mixed into a homogeneous composition with crushed and moistened peat. From the resulting mass, insulation blocks are molded and pressed, which have low thermal conductivity and a high degree of sound absorption. The advantage of this insulation can be called its ability to "breathe". Peat blocks absorb moisture well and also give it away well without any damage to themselves, that is, they support indoors optimal balance air humidity. The material belongs to middle group flammability (G2), has bacteriostatic qualities (do not allow the development of any microorganisms).
	Foam glass is a modern durable and environmentally friendly material that does not lose its properties throughout the entire period of operation. The blocks have a stable shape and absolute incombustibility, they are distinguished by lightness, chemical inertness, water and heat resistance, high strength, as well as excellent heat and sound insulation qualities. This heat insulator has few drawbacks, but they can be significant, since they include a high price and low impact strength, that is, fragility, so the plates must be handled carefully. In connection with the last "minus" of the material, some manufacturers cover the plates on both sides with a special reinforcing layer.

So, the conclusion is as follows - the insulation should make the bath rooms comfortable for taking water procedures, but if the wrong choice is made, it can not only spoil the walls of the building, but also bring significant harm to people's health. Therefore, it is very important to acquire not only high-quality wall paneling for finishing the bath, but also material for insulation suitable for these specific conditions.

Mineral wool prices

mineral wool

Warming and finishing with clapboard of the internal walls of the bath

Further, for example, the insulation of the walls of the bath will be presented, which are then sheathed with natural clapboard. To be able to choose suitable option, it is worth considering the two most optimal of them available for independent implementation.

Finishing the bath with preliminary insulation with polyurethane foam thermal insulation "SPU Sauna-Satu"

Illustration
	In the first case, the insulation is made by the Finnish insulation "SPU Sauna-Satu". It is installed to a wall treated with an antiseptic composition and dried, after holding it in ventilation ducts.
	Plates are installed in rows from floor to ceiling according to the principle brickwork, that is, the vertical seams between the plates of each of the rows should not coincide with each other, go "in a run". Before installing the first row on the floor, along the wall, as well as vertically, along the corner of the room, a mounting foam is applied with a construction gun, which has a small volumetric expansion. In addition, the foam is applied to the vertical joints of the plates, and will serve as both an adhesive and a sealant for the insulation.
	Further, on each installed row, before laying the next one, mounting foam is also applied, that is, the rows must be glued together with a polyurethane foam composition.
	Additionally, the plates are fixed to the wall with dowels or self-tapping screws. The head of the fasteners must be recessed into the insulation.
	Windows are cut out for ventilation pipes. After installing the insulation to the wall, the gap between it and the ventilation duct is filled with mounting foam.
	Along ventilation pipes a heater is also installed, and the gaps formed between them are again filled with mounting foam.
	The insulation installed on the wall should form an almost integral, monolithic coating, since all the mating of the plates will be made using mounting foam.
	In the next step, the insulation is fixed to the ceiling, on which a crate of timber with a section of 50 × 50 or 70 × 70 mm is pre-arranged. The beam must be positioned so that the junction of the two plates to be joined lies on it. In this case, it is also necessary to take into account the location of the ventilation ducts, if they are equipped on the ceiling. Before mounting each insulation block, mounting foam is applied to it, with which it takes root to the crate beam. We must not forget that the plates are also "planted" on the foam between themselves.
	Then, the edges of the insulation plate are additionally fixed to the beam with two self-tapping screws.
	Having fixed one row of foil insulation, mounting foam is again applied on its end side, and then the second row of material is mounted and fixed.
	After installing each of the plates, it is additionally fixed on the rails of the battens with self-tapping screws.
	In the event that a chimney pipe from the furnace passes through the ceiling, it is necessary to build a thermally insulated penetration around it - usually a metal box that is filled with heat-resistant material. Expanded clay can be used as such an insulator. It is poured into a box mounted in the ceiling. The gaps inside this penetration, that is, between the pipe and the circumference of the opening through which it passes, can be sealed with a heat-resistant sealant.
	When the room is completely sheathed with heat-insulating material, all unsealed joints of the plates (usually they remain along the line where the walls intersect with the ceiling) are foamed.
	In addition, the gaps around all the elements passed through the insulation are filled with foam, since the coating must become absolutely tight.
	When the foam expands and completely hardens, its protruding excess must be cut off. This process should be carried out without fail, even in those places where the foam appeared, it would seem, slightly, otherwise these remaining influxes may violate the overall waterproofing.
	The next step, without exception, all the joints between the plates, the foamed gaps around the pipes, as well as the hats of the screwed screws on the walls and on the ceiling, are sealed with moisture-resistant foil tape. It should fit snugly against the aluminum surface of the insulation.
	If it is planned to cover the lower part of the wall with ceramic tiles, then it is necessary to remove the aluminum coating from the insulation. To do this, a line is marked according to the level at the level of the upper edge of the planned tiled "belt", then, without much pressure, a sharp knife is drawn along it.
	Then, the cut metal film is carefully picked up with the tip of a knife and, slowly, peeled off and separated from the insulation board.
	Further, the insulation material, the floor, and especially the joint between them, is covered with a waterproofing composition, for example, liquid rubber. While the waterproofing has not yet hardened, a reinforcing material is glued onto it with a strip, the width of which should be such that it covers the lower part of the wall and the floor by 150 ÷ 170 mm and is well pressed to the joint between them. If necessary, that is, if the reinforcing mesh is not immediately recessed into the waterproofing, another layer is applied on top of it.
	After the waterproofing material dries, on top of it, ceramic tiles are mounted on waterproof glue.
	The marking of the insulated surface is carried out using a building level with a ruler and a black marker, since it will not damage the aluminum coating, and its trace will be clearly visible on the surface. The guide battens for lining are installed at a distance of 500 ÷ 600 mm from each other.
	Then, along the marked lines, with the help of self-tapping screws or dowels, which are screwed in in increments of 200 ÷ 300 mm, the laths of the crate are fixed, with a section of 15 × 50 or 20 × 50 mm. AT this case it is planned to install the lining horizontally, so the elements of the crate are fixed vertically to the wall. To the ceiling, the slats are fixed perpendicular to the frame beam, on which the insulation is fixed.
	The next step is the lining of the ceiling. The boards are assembled with the help of tongue-and-groove joints. If necessary, since the spike can enter the groove with resistance, the lining can be slightly knocked out with a hammer by attaching an auxiliary rail to it.
	In this example, an electric nail gun is used to fix the lining. It is very convenient to work with them, and the process of fixing the lining boards is quite fast.
	After the ceiling sheathing is completed, they move on to lining the walls with clapboard. In this case, the horizontal arrangement of the lining boards a is chosen, which is typical for Finnish saunas. However, as mentioned above, the best option, especially for Russian baths, is the vertical orientation of the boards, in order to avoid the penetration of moisture under the cladding.

The second version of the cladding - using fiberglass insulation type "URSA PUREONE"

To insulate the walls of the bath, thermal insulation environmentally friendly material based on fiberglass - "URSA PUREONE" can be used. However, in this case, it will be necessary to cover the insulation layer with a vapor-tight material. For these purposes, foamed foil polyethylene is usually used, which covers the entire insulated surface.

How such a finish is carried out - step by step in the table below:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	This version of the insulation and cladding of the bath room takes place in a different order from the first considered cladding method, since other materials are used for it. The first stage of work consists in fixing the frame on the wall, previously cleaned, treated with a primer, well dried and marked for timber. The guides are installed in increments of 600 mm, so that the clear distance is, taking into account the width of the beam, approximately 560-580 mm. The beam is fastened with dowels, and the hats of these elements must be recessed flush with the wood. Then, between the vertically installed guides, a heater is laid. Here it is necessary to clarify that the cross section of the beam must correspond to the thickness of the insulation. The selected installation step of the guides allows you to tightly, without gaps, by surprise due to elasticity, securely install insulation mats with a width of 600 mm.
	Then, the laid insulation over its entire area is tightened with a vapor barrier material, which is often used as foam foil polyethylene with a thickness of 1.5 ÷ 2 mm. The canvases of this material are nailed to wooden bars with staples, and then all their joints are sealed with waterproof foil tape.
	On top of the foil insulation, rails with a section of 20 × 40 mm and with a step of 400 ÷ 500 mm are fixed horizontally. Fastening is carried out with the help of self-tapping screws to vertically installed bars of the crate.
	When installing rails, their evenness is controlled using the building level, both horizontally and relative to the wall. Therefore, if necessary, fragments of plywood or thinner slats are placed under the slats in certain places in order to achieve a flat plane of the wall.
	When using wooden linings, the slats are fixed through them to the frame beam more long self-tapping screws– 50÷60 mm.
	The lower rails should be fixed at a height of 30 ÷ 50 mm from the floor, so that it would be convenient to fix the lining to them later.
	Additional rails are fixed around the window and doorways, as well as in corners, and they can be mounted vertically and horizontally, depending on the installation location.
	Next, the lining is installed. Facing start from the corner. The first board must be verified according to the building level, and its correct position can be marked on the horizontal rails with a simple pencil.
	This board is screwed to each of the laths of the crate with self-tapping screws in the corner area. To prevent the lining from cracking, it is recommended to pre-drill a hole for the self-tapping screw with a thinner drill.
	On the other hand, the board is attached to each rail through the clamp. It slides into the groove of the lining until it stops, and through the hole it is nailed to the rail with a small nail or staples hammered with a stapler. When hammering a nail into the hole of the kleimer, in order not to damage the edge of the board, pliers are used to grab the nail by the head and only after that they hit it with a hammer.
	In this photo, the kleimer and the driven nail are shown in a different projection in order to clearly see how the fixing process is carried out.
	The next lining is driven with a groove into the spike of the previous, already fixed board over the kleimers. Then, it is also fixed to the rails through the clamps installed in its groove.
	If the spike of the lining enters the groove with difficulty, then the board is carefully knocked out with a hammer, applying an additional piece of the rail so as not to damage the lock part.
	The result should be a flat (or with vertical "grooves", depending on the type of lining chosen) wooden wall.
	The next step is that all small slit-like gaps formed at the junctions of the planes are closed with fittings - these can be wooden corners or skirting boards. The accessories are fixed on top of the lining with small carnations or those from which the hats are removed.
	If, after mounting the cladding on the wall, it is decided to additionally tint it, then it is recommended to use a combined tinting protective composition for this purpose, which includes antiseptic components and a fire retardant.
	Such a composition will not only give the intended color and aesthetics to the mounted skin, but will also become a good protection against external influences and rapid ignition. The questions of the final decoration of the lining in the bath with appropriate impregnations or varnishes were described in detail above in the article.

Of course, in addition to these two demonstrated methods of thermal insulation of walls in a bathhouse, followed by clapboard cladding, there are others - it all depends on the specifics of the building and the heaters used. The main thing is that the optimal scheme of the insulating and finishing “pie” is observed, high-quality materials are selected taking into account their operational characteristics.

At the end of the publication - a training video from the company "TechnoNIKOL" on the insulation of the walls of the bath, followed by lining them with natural clapboard.

Video: proper insulation of the walls of the bath for lining - materials of the company "TechnoNIKOL"

The bath can be built from any material: wood, brick, foam concrete, aerated concrete and much more. To do this, you can attract experts in this field.
But finishing the baths inside with your own hands can be not only cost-effective, but also of high quality.

Where to start finishing work? After all, there are several surfaces in the room that need to be aesthetically beautiful.
This includes finishing:

Stan.
Paula
Ceiling.

Floor finish

The whole process starts from the floor. As a rule, during the construction of the draft floor is not done.
It is for this reason that it is worthwhile to initially deal with floor structures. For this, a concrete screed is made.
For the solution is used:

Cement brand 400.
Crushed stone (not too large).
Sand (cleaned).
Water.

Stages of work:

Wooden beacons are installed along the entire perimeter of the room, and the solution will be poured along them. After that, sand and gravel are added, and expanded clay can also be used.
This is insulating and waterproofing work. This is especially important if there is no basement in the room.
The concrete solution itself is mixed in a concrete mixer. Thus, you can save time and effort. It is necessary to fill in such a way that the surface of the subfloor is as even as possible.

Bathhouse is a place where people relax and rejuvenate. In the old days, it was used to take childbirth, as well as to heal colds. Today, many modern procedures have been added to this treatment. They make the human body both younger and more beautiful. Many go to the bath just to relax comfortably and have fun. And so every person strives to make it at home. To do this, you need to know how to make a bath beautiful both inside and out.

Peculiarities

A building can be made of many materials, each of which has one or another merit. This includes foam block, and aerated concrete, and brick, and many other materials.

From logs

The most common and traditional material is wood. Most often, the owners choose rounded logs. This choice is quite understandable, because a bath made of such material looks very beautiful and natural. Plus, you can save time on construction, as well as simplify the workflow. In addition, the tree creates a wonderful microclimate inside the bath.

From foam block

When choosing such a material, you need to familiarize yourself with its qualities. After all, foam concrete has both advantages and disadvantages. For example, it has good thermal insulation, the level of which is much higher than that of conventional concrete. Also, the foam block has a small mass, which simplifies cargo transportation. In addition, it is an environmentally friendly material, the constituent elements of which are sand, cement and water. The foam block is resistant to frost, it is not afraid of fire. But sometimes you can buy low-quality material with low strength. It will be of poor quality, especially if you compare such a fake with aerated concrete or expanded clay.

From aerated concrete

It has almost the same qualities as the foam block, its only difference is that it is vapor permeable and slowly absorbs moisture. But the damp material dries well.

from brick

Unlike the northern regions, where preference is given to wood, in the south, brick is most often used to build baths. It is made from clay, which is eco-friendly material, because in such a building they not only wash, but also improve their health. In addition, such material is durable and is not afraid of fire. Its only drawback is its high thermal conductivity. But having made good insulation, it will be as warm in a brick bath as in a wooden building.

cinder block

The cinder block is used to make the construction of the building faster and cheaper. At the same time, the quality of the bath does not suffer, since this material is no less durable than a brick.

From gas silicate blocks

Building a bath from such material will cost less than building a tree. It consists of cement, sand, gypsum, lime and water. Gas silicate is not afraid of mold, immune to frost, fire resistant, environmentally friendly and soundproof. The only downside is that it has a high moisture absorbency.

When determining the necessary materials for the construction and decoration of the bath room, it must be remembered that they should not emit harmful fumes at elevated temperatures. Finishing inside should retain heat well and give it to the room after heating.

A bath, like any room, consists of different surfaces, the materials for which are selected separately. For example, wall decoration in every second bath is made of natural wood. This is done because it absorbs moisture well, is resistant to high temperatures, and also has a long service life. In addition, the tree, due to its qualities, fills the room with a unique atmosphere.

For wall cladding in a bath and sauna, lining or imitation of bars are most often used. Also, the surfaces are sheathed with unedged boards made of various types of wood. The cheapest material is pine, but you can’t use it for finishing a steam room, because it contains a large number of resin, so touching such surfaces can cause burns.

Best Option for the interior lining of the bath there will be such types of wood as linden or larch. Linden not only does not darken with time, but also does not crack. Plus, its use will enhance the healing effect of being in the steam room. Larch has a long service life, and is also not afraid of mold.

Do not trim OSB slab, because it contains a lot harmful substances, which increases with increasing temperature.

For floor covering use wooden planks or ceramic tiles, but glazed tiles are more suitable for this. After all, it tolerates temperature changes better than any other. But the walls around the stove can be finished with stone or tiles that are resistant to fire.

Exterior finish

For finishing the bath outside, there are several options. One of them is siding. It is not afraid of temperature changes, and also does not corrode. But if the bathhouse has a building made of rounded beams, then it is not worth sheathing it with siding. After all, the tree must breathe, but he will not be able to provide this. And then the walls can turn black, which will reduce their service life.

The next option is clapboard lining. Such a finish is not difficult to do with your own hands. However, when buying, you should pay attention to the moisture content of the material, which should not be higher than 15%. You can also use a block house that imitates the surface of rounded logs, which costs a little more than lining. You also need to pay attention to its humidity. Installation of these materials is a very difficult task, so it is better to entrust it to specialists.

Wall decoration can be done with facade tiles with special plates. With their help, it is attached with screws to the crate.

The most common type of bath finish is plastering the surface., which can decorate even a very modest building. It is better to buy ready-made dry mix. It only needs to be diluted with water and, if necessary, add the desired pigment. It is applied with the help of movements in different directions. In this case, a furrow is formed, resembling the bark of a tree.

Building a bath is only half the job. After all, after the completion of external work, it is necessary to proceed to the decoration from the inside. This is an important step in construction. A well-executed building finish not only looks good, it also protects the ceiling, floor, and walls.

When planning the decoration of the bath, you need to know that it consists of three rooms. This is a dressing room or, in other words, a locker room, a washing or shower room and a steam room. If the bath is large, then you can also make a kitchen area, a pool or even a billiard room in it. However, here, too, one should not neglect the basic requirements for a bath. The premises should ideally not only have an attractive finish, but also be very practical.

It is necessary to start interior decoration of rooms with a selection of materials necessary for work. If you choose them correctly, it will extend their service life, and also give you the opportunity to relax in comfort.

Wood

Wood is most suitable for interior decoration. Here larch or linden can be chosen. Recently, the abachi tree has become popular, which has interesting properties. This is a very soft African wood, which has only one significant drawback - stains and any prints remain on its surface. This material has a very low thermal conductivity, and when a person sits on it, it assumes body temperature.

There are also materials that should not be used when decorating bath rooms. For example, you can not use pine for finishing the steam room, which releases a lot of resin during the heating process. As already mentioned, this can lead to burns. Also, sheathing made by chipboard or fiberboard swells very strongly and at the same time exudes substances that can even lead to poisoning. For the same reasons, you can not lay linoleum.

If the use of pine is prohibited for a steam room, then for a dressing room or gathering room, on the contrary, it will be better than any other material. The tree will give its aroma to the room and thus it will be possible to create the atmosphere of a real Russian bathhouse.

clapboard

Lining is also actively used as a finishing material. It is very easy to install and the individual panels can be replaced. Such material will be ideal for finishing bath rooms, plus everything, if a heater is placed under it, then the room will turn out to be as warm as possible.

Tile

The most commonly used material is tile. However, it is not recommended to use it in a steam room, but it is perfect for a relaxation area and a shower room. After all, such material does not rot, is not exposed to moisture and is not afraid of high temperatures, which means it will last a long time. It is unenamelled and glazed. The latter option is ideal for finishing surfaces in the bath. But non-enameled tiles do not tolerate temperature extremes.

Before starting the sheathing, it is necessary to distribute the work processes. They are performed from the bottom up. The first stage is the finishing of the floor. Next comes the ceiling and then the walls.

You need to start finishing the bath from the floor. To do this, you can use a larch edged board or tile. First, a rough coating is done. For this, concrete is poured, taking into account the water output system. Then, after a few days, necessary for the solution to solidify, you can proceed to finish the floor.

If a tree is chosen for its sheathing, then the logs are installed first, and then edged boards up to thirty centimeters thick are laid. Before starting work, all wood must be treated with antiseptics to avoid fungus and mold.

In the event that tiles will be used for decoration, then it is necessary to make a screed before installing it, and only then you can proceed to installation. You should also pay attention to its basis. Indeed, on a porous basis, as you know, a fungus can spread. Therefore, it is better to use smooth tiles. Getting started, you must first soak it for a few minutes to save glue. After all, wet material will absorb it less. Then the tile smeared with glue is applied to the wall. Its edges need to be planted a little with a mallet. At the end of the work, it is necessary to wipe the seams. To prevent accidents, wooden bars can be installed on top of the tiles.

To sheathe a room with clapboard, it is necessary to level the surfaces of the walls, otherwise it will go in waves. Next, a crate is created from the rails, which are fixed at a distance of 60-70 centimeters from each other. According to the technology, the extreme rails are first attached using galvanized self-tapping screws. A plumb line and a level are used to ensure that everything is done neatly and evenly. If the walls are even, the lining can be installed without the use of crates. It is attached with large staples or self-tapping screws.

Often, beginners are faced with the question of whether a vapor barrier is needed. This primarily depends on the basic materials used for construction and interior decoration. If the structure is wooden and finished with clapboard, then vapor barrier is not required. For brick buildings, it is required. Do not forget about the treatment of the entire frame system, as well as the material itself with antiseptic agents. It is not necessary to cover the skin with paint or even clear varnish, as they will not let steam through.

Before installation work the bathroom needs to be insulated. To do this, you can use mineral wool, which is laid on the crate. The thickness of the insulation ranges from 10 to 20 centimeters, depending on the material used to build the bath.

After finishing the sheathing, you can start decorating the room, install shelves, and also decorate it with various objects. This can be done in modern style or decorate the room antique.

steam room

Making the finishing of the steam room, it is necessary to take into account its features. These are temperature fluctuations and high humidity, and the constant presence of steam. Therefore, when choosing materials for finishing, you need to consider extreme conditions steam room. The wood must be dry, free of knots or other defects. Antiseptic treatment should also be done. This will extend its durability. For this, an edged board that meets such requirements as moisture resistance, immunity to mold or fungus, and also does not have resins is suitable.

good performance has a lining made of linden. It has a low density, which allows it not to heat up very much in the steam room. Also, such panels do not emit tar, plus they have good sound insulation. No worse than linden and lining made of aspen or cedar, which have almost the same qualities.

For a steam room, materials such as linoleum or wooden slabs cannot be used, since when the air is heated, they emit substances that are bad for human health. The same applies to plastic. Tiling is also not recommended, as it can crack at high temperatures, and touching it can cause severe burns.

It does not require a steam room and additional processing, because all antiseptics have a chemical additive, which at high temperatures will begin to actively stand out from the materials used, which will adversely affect health and make the adoption of procedures more dangerous.

Finishing in the steam room begins with raising the floor by about fifteen centimeters so that there are no drafts and heat is better retained. Coverage is best made from edged boards or ceramic tiles.

Starting to sheath the steam room with a clapboard, you must immediately make it warm. For this purpose, mineral or basalt wool. You can also use cork agglomerate, the main advantage of which is hypoallergenicity. The sheathing itself must be done very diligently. The distance between the rails must be at least 50 centimeters.

At the end of the installation of the lining, you can proceed to the installation of shelves or sun loungers. They should be round in shape. For their manufacture, it is preferable to take a tree that has the lowest density so that they do not get very hot. It can be either linden or aspen, and for lovers of strong aromas, cedar boards are suitable. It is better to place them against a wall that does not have windows. It is necessary to make sunbeds different, measuring from half a meter to a meter for a comfortable pastime.

washing

The washing room is used not only for its intended purpose, that is, not only to wash in the shower, but also to pamper your body with massages or other procedures. All this must be thought about in advance, even before finishing work or even during the construction of the bath.

When choosing finishing materials for it, you need to take into account all the functions that will be needed in the washing room. Best for finishing tile or wood. Unlike a steam room, needle materials are more suitable for a washing room. It can be spruce, and pine, as well as larch. This choice is very easy to explain. After all, the needles have the properties to repel water and will show themselves in the washing room in the best possible way. It will not only last a long time, but will delight the eye with its appearance. Coniferous materials are very healthy, and their smell heals the heart, lungs and nervous system.

The most important task is finishing the floor. It must be non-slip. To achieve this result, the base of the floor is made of concrete. A tile is laid on its surface. And to avoid slipping, wooden gratings are placed on top. They must be periodically removed and taken out to fresh air to dry and prevent fungus. The tile handles a lot of water very well. But the floors in the washroom can be completely made of wood. However, it is worth considering that they do not completely remove the water, which means that its stagnation can lead to the appearance of mold or rot.

Finishing inside such a room does not require such strict rules as a steam room. But even if there are no high temperatures, the humidity in the bath is still too high. Masters advise finishing with natural breathable materials. It can be lining, and stone, and tile. Even plastic can be used here, but of very high quality, because poor quality will release toxins when heated.

Also, if the firebox is made in washing department, it is necessary to isolate the walls and ceiling located near the furnace. This can be done with a metal sheet.

Restroom

To decorate a room such as a rest room, there is no need to meticulously select materials. To do this, you can use any type of wood, so finishing such a room will cost the owner very cheaply. The use of linoleum and wood boards is allowed here. For walls and ceilings, lining or other materials using imitation bars are suitable.

Wall decoration consists of two stages - roughing and finishing. Beginning rough finish, you need to remember that it is immediately necessary to make the sealing of the room. This stage includes the insulation of walls and ceilings with mineral wool and foil.

Then proceed to the finishing touches. For this, lining, which includes natural wood species, is suitable. You can also combine its types to enhance the healing effect. In addition, such a simple option will add some extravagance to the rest room.

To place the boards in such a room, it is necessary to use either a vertical or horizontal finish option. This is done so that the water flowing down the lining does not accumulate between the planks.

For finishing the floor, as well as in the previous rooms, you can use both wood and tiles. Having chosen the first option, you can start doing it in stages. First, logs are laid on the concrete base. Before this, waterproofing is done. Then the logs are treated with an antiseptic. Beams are attached along their edges, and only then a subfloor made of wood is placed on them.

The next step will be laying the insulating material. It can be, for example, roofing material. A layer of expanded clay is poured on top of it, and then waterproofing is again placed. The last stage includes laying the finishing boards.

Having chosen tiles for finishing the floor, you need to know which types of it are more suitable for this. You can use porcelain stoneware and majolica tiles. For laying, you first need to fill the area under the room with sand and level it well. Then lay out the foam and insulating material on top, on which a special mesh rests. Then the concrete is poured and after a few days you can start installing the tiles.

When choosing materials for decoration, it must be taken into account that the rest room is a room where you can relax and have fun. Therefore, the interior and decor play an important role in this. If you choose the right colors, as well as combine all types of finishes, then it will be pleasant to relax in such a room not only for the owners, but also for guests.

In order to be able to comfortably relax in the bath, it is necessary to properly finish the room. To do this, it is necessary to plan in advance not only the interior of all rooms, but also their thermal insulation. The materials used for this must be environmentally friendly, resistant to high temperatures, as well as to the effects of mold.

It is better to take mineral wool for room insulation, which is a natural material with a high degree thermal conductivity, besides, its service life can reach 50 years. You can also use foil insulation. Their advantage is that they are only one centimeter thick.

Do not use glass wool. It is slightly inferior in properties to mineral wool, moreover, it emits an unpleasant odor over time. To insulate a bath from logs, you can use jute felt material. Do not use foam for insulation inside, which can emit toxic substances. For the floor, you can use a layer of expanded clay, the thickness of which should be 25 centimeters.

Interior decoration of bath rooms is best done from wood, which is a durable and environmentally friendly material. In addition, no other material can replace either the look or the aroma of wood. After all, it is not only pleasant to touch it, but also to walk barefoot. There is no need to treat wood surfaces with paint or varnish, it is better to enjoy their natural aroma.

If wood is used for finishing, then it should be brought into the room in advance, two to three days before work begins. This will give the lining the advantage that then it will not feel either wet or drying out. For mounting the crate, you need to use bars measuring 50 by 50 centimeters.

Do not forget about the installation of a rough and finishing floor in each bath room. It must allow air to pass through so that the boards or any other base do not rot or become moldy over time. It is necessary to install top air ducts for ventilation of the room. After all, they are vital. If a person becomes ill, then with their help you can instantly reset the level of steam. Also, if the bath is not heated, the vents must be left open so that the walls do not become damp.

When installing the stove, you need to pay attention to the device of the chimney so that soot does not catch fire in it. Also, do not forget about the wiring. In order to avoid any safety issues, it is necessary to use safe LED lamps for lighting in the steam room and washing room.

Although there are a lot of works on finishing the bath and they are not easy, you can still do them yourself, you just need to follow the advice and recommendations of specialists, and also pay attention to the installation process.

Beautiful examples

There are many interesting ideas baths, many of which can be used to inspire renovations or construction.

The first example is a classic sauna with wooden walls, floors and even a ceiling. All this is made of logs, covered only with a protective layer of varnish. Only in such a steam room you can truly relax. She looks traditional, and this is her main charm. The bath is divided into two main parts - a place to relax and the steam room itself. Both of them are made in the same style and decorated with dried herb brooms. This decor not only looks beautiful, but also fills the room with incredible aromas. At the same time, this kind of decoration is quite budgetary, because herbs for brooms in summer time years you can collect yourself.

As for the functional filling of the rooms, everything is simple. The steam room has everything you need for a good rest and swimming. The dressing room can also become a place for sincere gatherings with friends. It stands here big table and chairs with comfortable backs. It will fit a traditional Russian samovar, delicious food and some alcohol to cheer you up.

The recreation area in the bath can be made not only in the traditional Russian style. The next example is a luxurious large room, stylized as an expensive classic. Of the finishing materials here, wood, slab, and stone are used immediately. Despite the fact that there are a lot of them, they are all organically combined with each other.

The room is made in cozy brown and gray tones. Wooden walls and ceiling are combined with cozy brown armchairs, and a neat stone wall is combined with a tiled floor. Since the recreation room is large enough, it can be divided into several zones at once. The main one is for gatherings with friends. There are chairs and several tables. The rest of the space is more free and can be used at your discretion.

Decorative details deserve special attention. It is they, along with thoughtful finishes, that create an atmosphere of luxury in this room. Decorative details include paintings on the walls, wrought iron lamps, and soft pillows.

The last version of the room is a steam room, decorated in a modern style. Everything here is very simple and minimalistic. The decoration of the entire room is made of light wood, as is the fence for a small stove filled with stones. It is comfortable, stylish and safe. Only one of the walls is finished with stone. It is located behind the stove, which increases its safety. Decorative details in the steam room would be superfluous, so there is only what you need for a good rest.

Building a bath and finishing all its surfaces is a responsible task. After all, not only the appearance of the room depends on the choice of materials, but also how healthy the atmosphere in the rooms will be. Therefore, it is necessary to take into account all the above information about different types finishes, and then the bath will turn out exactly the way you want to see it, and it will really be pleasant to relax and spend free time in the company of loved ones.