External wall insulation made of shell rock. Is it necessary to plaster the shell rock before warming it with basalt wool? Do-it-yourself warming of a house built of shell rock - how and with what
Hello!
We don't work on weekends, sorry.
See what happens. If the house is permanent residence, then the option with warm plaster is not very suitable, since Odessa needs an 8.5 cm layer, and this is quite problematic to do with high quality (such a layer thickness). Cotton wool, according to the calculation, needs 37 mm, if rounded to positions that (in terms of thickness) are on sale, then this is 50 mm. Rarely there are 40 mm (maybe they are imported to Odessa, you can check). But you do not write what kind of facade you want. It can be a facade with insulation plastering, then cotton wool with a density of 135-145 kg / m3, a special position for external plaster, and you will hardly find it 40 mm, it will be 50 mm. If the facade will be under the cladding, materials such as siding, panels, then cotton wool with a density of 40-60 kg / m3, then a superdiffusion membrane, a gap and a cladding. Specify which facade you are planning. I can’t help with prices, unfortunately, there is too much variation in the positions of cotton wool and plaster (and now it’s generally unclear at what prices who does the work).
It is not necessary to plaster the facade under cotton wool (neither under the facade with lining, nor under the facade with plastering over the insulation).
Ask (I will answer on Monday).
Hello, friends!
Please help with advice, here is a brief summary:
During the construction of a private house, a mistake was made, there is no horizontal waterproofing and the walls are laid out with a “shell” directly on the foundation. The foundation is 140 cm high. Finishing work (neither inside nor outside) has not yet been carried out, now they have come to work on the waterproofing of the floor.
1) How best to this case to cut off moisture rising along the foundation? One specialist suggested making strobes (from inside and outside the building) 2 cm deep in the seams between the foundation and the shell and treated with penetrating waterproofing KALMAFLEX. There was also advice to drill holes in the shell in a checkerboard pattern from the outside and from the inside buildings and "fill" them with liquid glass.
2) Is it necessary to make vertical waterproofing of the walls or somehow treat them in order to protect them from dampness and mold? in one "shell" - width 38 cm.
Thanks everyone for participating!
Topic status: Closed.
At one time we were engaged in the facades of buildings. Here you need to decide how economical insulation you want to get, and how reliable.
the warmed facades happen ventilated, happen soft. But the essence of warming is about the same. Any kind of insulation on a dish-shaped dowel and a special composition is attached to the facade and protected either by facade plaster on the grid or by a hinged system. The insulation can be a moisture-resistant foam plastic (blue), or a basalt wool slab insulation. If you are not going to use a hinged system, then it is better for you to use a dense insulation from 35 to 40 kg / m3
It is possible to insulate the house from the inside, but here you need to use exclusively mineral wool insulation, basalt wool, etc., it is undesirable to use foam plastic, since it is a polymer and emits heat harmful substances. The insulation is placed under the gypsum boards, and outside the shell rock is simply plastered and painted. It should be noted that in the heat-technical calculation, all layers are taken into account, starting from the outer plaster. ending with a layer of drywall, indoors. It is also worth noting that the more wet processes during the performance of work, the lower the quality of insulation, due to the need for high qualification of the performer. I wish you good luck with your home improvement!I advise you to insulate with mineral wool. Saves heat by 30 - 40%. Good economy of gas and light. We did this last fall and did not regret it.
I have a country house made of shell rock. I want to insulate it so that it is not hot in summer and cold in winter. What material is better to use for insulation? There are such plates called "Clinker" this is a foam plate, with ceramic tiles on the front side. A wall of these slabs will resemble brickwork, the seams between the slabs must be smeared with a special solution in the form of putty, called “grout”, it is advisable to smear it before fixing it on the wall, so that later you don’t climb the assembled wall and grease ... .. saving time and safer. The cost of one plate is noticeably 2500 rubles. A plate measuring approximately measures per meter!
If we talk about insulation from the outside of the house, now foam is very widely used. The heater is the cheapest and not the worst in terms of efficiency.
Click to reveal...
You're right. Styrofoam is not the worst insulation. Only it is a polymer, and like any polymer, it emits harmful substances. There was a time when it was forbidden to insulate facades, since not only does it burn, it also emits toxic substances during combustion. If funds allow, it is better to insulate with mineral wool boards and protect them with some kind of curtain wall. It's both beautiful and practical.
I have country house built from shell rock. The thickness of the outer walls I have is one and a half stones. To be honest, I see no reason to insulate my house, since the shell rock itself retains heat very well in the rooms. And in winter, you still need to heat something, at least insulate the walls, at least don’t insulate.
Entgktybt gtyjgk
I have a country house made of shell rock. I want to insulate it so that it is not hot in summer and cold in winter. What is the best insulation material to use? Styrofoam insulation is the most cost-effective and reliable option, but only outside the house. But I want to offer you my own version, so I built a free-standing kitchen a couple of years ago. He laid a wall of shell rock and lined it with silicate bricks, and between them he inserted foam plastic 3 mm thick, with a density of a quarter. For two years now, there have been no problems either in winter or in summer.
Click to reveal...
Shell rock is a material that looks very impressive, so it is advisable to produce insulation from the inside of the room. Inexpensive material - "izover".
Yes, in fact, the options are the same as with any other house - either mineral wool or polystyrene foam, whichever you find cheaper.
I think that mineral wool is better, at least it breathes, unlike polystyrene or foam plastic. We insulate our house with it.
I also think that it is better to insulate with mineral wool, not only does it breathe, it is also resistant to rodents, unlike polystyrene foam, it also retains moisture in the house and the mice live in it like in a resort.
That's all set up "mineral wool breathes." How does he breathe? In any case, waterproofing is needed, so the ability to breathe will be limited.
Vadim Martynenko said:
Only mineral wool (basalt or glass)! And that's 5% success. The rest is a strict technology of work and the composition of materials and elements.
Click to reveal...
I support, the choice of insulation is not the most important thing. Technology and materials are very important. So that they don’t remake it later, like me.
I have a country house made of shell rock. I want to insulate it so that it is not hot in summer and cold in winter. What is the best insulation material to use?
Click to reveal...
And what did you remake, if not a secret?
Click to reveal...
Three years ago, he hired workers to insulate, agreed on mineral wool boards. Everything is ok, I'm looking forward to a warm winter. And the plaster in the middle of winter began to crack, and under it immediately cotton wool. No reinforcement. I had to beat everything up and re-coat it.
Dominion,
And what is there to think. Of course, the foam is 5 cm, there will be thermal insulation at the level. Then it is plastered with a special mixture, then covered with “bark beetle” and painted. Everyone, rejoice! Prices, by the way, are not very bite.
Dominion,
Here are the freaks, honestly. I do not know how you can not know the elementary when working. Now everyone can see that the facade is covered with mesh under plaster. trouble (((Click to reveal...
Yes, trouble, then I myself took Weber Vetonit for outdoors and painted them with paint on top. Well, we have wintered well for two winters, no surprises.
Topic status: Closed.
The porous structure of the shell rock, that is, the presence of air cavities inside it, improves the thermal characteristics of the stone. Let's try to figure out if this is enough for construction warm home Or do you still need to close the pores of the shell rock with a finish?
By and large, this material is a heater, since a wall made of blocks of the M-25 brand 20 cm thick better protects the premises from the penetration of cold than a structure made of ceramic brick 51 cm thick.
The low thermal conductivity of the shell rock can be easily checked, and without the use of special technical means: just put the stone on the stove and heat it up. After a couple of minutes, one side of it will become very hot, while the other will be just warm, but no more.
But still, shell walls should not be left without additional insulation. And above all because of the heterogeneity of the structure of this stone. The percentage of porosity from stone to stone can vary significantly, so it is worth buying a shell rock from one batch.
Even if the purchase will be made from the same supplier, it is better to immediately take it with a possible margin. However, this does not guarantee the absence of large or even open pores in some shell rock units.
In this case, the shell wall will not breathe, saturating the house with fresh air and regulating its microclimate, but simply see through, forcing you to increase heating costs.
Of course, when buying, you can check each stone, choose "shells" of the M-25 brand weighing at least 15 kg (preferably 16 kg), which have a denser structure. But the correct measure is the construction of an external barrier.
It can be done in several ways, but the most optimal laying of a layer of facing bricks at a distance from the main wall (with a ventilation gap), the implementation of a “wet” insulation technology or the creation of a full-fledged ventilated facade (with mineral wool as a heater). Such a house will be warm, reliable and still environmentally friendly.
Finishing Issues
The natural texture of the surface of the shell rock is indeed a certain decoration in itself and can be advantageously used when designing the interior of a building.
An open shell wall is especially suitable for dwellings where wood and other natural materials are used in decoration. And yet the whole house is in the loft style (in which the surfaces of structures and even network engineering deliberately left open) not everyone will like it. 
Therefore, in most cases it will be necessary interior decoration. Most experts do not recommend covering shell rock walls with drywall: drilling blocks will be required to fix the profiles, and due to the heterogeneity of the structure, it is impossible to guarantee their durability.
Plaster is ideal for finishing walls made of "shells". Moreover, pre-fix the reinforcing metal mesh not required - due to the same porous structure, the shell rock has high adhesion, that is, the adhesion force with other materials.
True, when performing work, it is desirable to first produce the so-called "spray" - apply a leveling draft layer of the solution. On top of it, a fine finish is made of cement-sand or gypsum plaster (the latter is only for dry rooms, it will not work for the walls of the bathroom).
The shell rock also needs exterior finish- you should not leave it untreated, as atmospheric exposure can adversely affect its durability. Applying vapor-permeable plaster on the outside of the facade will protect the stone, and at the same time close the pores of the material and prevent drafts in the house.
Hello Sergey!
It's nice to see a question so specifically asked :-). I answer:
1. clinker hollow brick (125mm) - mineral wool (50mm) - shell (380mm) further gypsum and sandy plaster in places where there is high humidity. Everything is in order, both in terms of warmth and in terms of the sequence of layers.
2. front full-bodied brick (cheaper than clinker) - an air layer (I don’t know how many cm, please calculate) - then the same. With this option, it's worse. Look, the air gap gives very little heat. After all, it is leaky, so it has little effect on the thermal characteristics of the wall. In numbers, it looks like this: in total for your region, the wall should provide a heat transfer resistance of 2.8 (no less), and an air gap 100 mm thick can provide only 0.16 of these 2.8. And if you make the layer larger, for example 200mm, then 0.16 remains unchanged (there is no point in making it larger, there is still no sense :-)). And such a wall, about a layer of 100 mm, lacks another 50 mm of wool for insulation.
3. I would offer you a "mixed version". If you are appearance satisfied with the front solid brick, then you can make a wall like this: this brick, 50mm cotton wool, and 380mm shell. The thickness of the wool does not change depending on what type of brick will be outside (clinker or ordinary). I will explain why the thickness of the wool does not change. She (cotton wool) is on sale, as a rule, 50mm and 100mm. No wool 45, 38, etc. Therefore, when calculating with clinker wool, 45 mm is needed, when calculating with a regular one, - 48 mm, - this is still a position of 50 mm.
4. By how much cotton wool lives in such a wall. It is very important here what kind of wool. For such a design, you need to take a density of 50-65 kg / m3. Less dense cotton can sag. European manufacturers of cotton wool have the results of studies from special "aging chambers", and these studies indicate that in such a wall, cotton wool of the required density "lives" while the building itself "lives". From my own experience, I can say this. 10 years have passed since the end of construction residential complex, 16 floors, also the first climatic zone, like yours, there was mineral wool with a density of 50 kg / m3 in the wall. Reviews of people now (they inserted new windows for themselves, the wall was visible in the section) - no changes in the wool. In terms of comfort, everything is in order, warm. And many such houses have been built, if something happened to cotton wool, then it would definitely be "heard" about it :-). Here the main question is the density of cotton wool (do not save on it), because I can’t vouch for the positions of 35 kg / m3. And 50-65 is quite normal.
5. By itself :-). I live in the first climate zone, so the wall should also provide the same 2.8 as yours. I want a wall without insulation, if possible. Most likely, this is a gas block (300 mm) + facing brick, such a wall is just enough for the first climatic zone.
We have already mentioned shell rock, its characteristics and properties as a building material in the article - “”, here a specialist, professional builder Oleg Gots will give advice on how and with what to insulate such a house.
They will fit many standard-built houses - for example, covered with a cement “fur coat”, popular in the 90s, or plastered and then painted.
The heat-insulating properties of a shell wall, especially if it is only 20 cm, are clearly not enough for modern home. But only its warming will not solve all the problems. In some cases, this should be started last.
First, you should consider the existing insulation of the attic floor.
It is effective if it is the following “pie” (from bottom to top): vapor barrier film, mineral wool at least 15 cm thick, hydro barrier film, boardwalk on logs.
Secondly, you should deal with the floors. They are not only sources of heat loss, but sometimes also conductors of dampness into the house. Capillary moisture, rising from the ground, creates high humidity in the house and feeling cold. To eliminate this problem, it is necessary to perform vapor insulation of the underground space: remove the wooden floor, lay a thin screed of cement-sand mortar on the ground, paste one layer of roofing felt over the screed, insulate the foundation walls from the inside and mount the insulation over the vapor barrier layer.
Upon completion of this work, you can return flooring in place. As a heater, it is better to use extruded polystyrene foam or high-density mineral wool mats.
Having solved the problems with ceilings and floors, you can proceed to the insulation of the walls.
The most effective technology is insulation from the outside. In this case, it will be enough to insulate the house with expanded polystyrene with a thickness of 5 centimeters or more (grades not lower than 25) or facade mineral slabs with a thickness of 7 cm or more.
Before starting installation, it is necessary to dry-test the strength of fastening the dowels to the shell rock. In any case, they should be chosen as long as possible.
A windproof film must be fixed on top of the heat-insulating layer.
As a finish, you can use plaster, siding or ventilation facade.
An alternative option is to insulate the house from the inside under wall plasterboard structures. In this case, semi-rigid mineral plates with a thickness of 5 cm or more are used and a vapor barrier film is required.
ETONTECK mosquito killer USB electric mosquito Photocatalysis lamps mute at home…
621.54 rub.
Free shipping★★ ★★ ★★ ★★ ★★ (4.50) | Orders (1448)
150 pcs/bag beautiful hosta perennial plants lily flower shade flower ...
Everyone who has been to the Crimea has seen elegant bright houses decorating the coast more than once. They are made from common building material, which is mined there in large quantities. Its low price attracts the owners of cottages, and they make a choice in favor of this stone. However, you need to understand that the shell rock has its own characteristics. Firstly, the porous structure of the blocks and their thickness of 0.2 m does not promise comfortable thermal insulation of the house. In the article we will talk about wall insulation
Dependence of the brand of shell rock and thermal insulation
The presence of natural cavities in the shell rock gives the stone a remarkable property - a high thermal insulation index. Is this enough to build a warm home? Sometimes it is used as a heater. For example, stones of the M25 brand with a width of 0.2 m are more reliably insulated in winter than brickwork 0.5 m wide.
So you can inspect each block of brand M25 and higher for holes, reject those that are not suitable. The weight of such blocks should be 15-16 kg, they have a denser structure. But the surest solution is to build a protective layer from the outside.
Apply:
- laying bricks at a short distance from the brick for air circulation;
- installation with mineral wool as a heater;
- polystyrene foam installation. Here it is recommended to pre-paint and plaster the house.
3 stages of insulation
Properly insulate the attic and roof first. The main step will be the laying of a vapor barrier film, then mineral wool with a thickness of more than 0.15 m, and finally a hydro barrier film. All these layers are fixed with boards on the roof joists.
The floor is thermally insulated necessary, because through it there is a huge loss of heat. This is dealt with by means of vapor barrier and insulation of the walls of the foundation inside.
Then they start house wall insulation from shell rock. effective method thermal insulation is called outdoor way. It has its own technologies, which we will discuss below.
How to insulate shell walls?
It is necessary to take into account the moisture-absorbing ability of the shell rock. Therefore, it is correct to resort to a vapor barrier layer of insulation that will remove moisture from bearing walls into the heater. Many craftsmen recommend taking basalt, adobe, reeds, perlite, sawdust concrete.
The most common layer of shell insulation is mineral wool. Its layer should be at least 0.05 m. In different regions it can be more - you need to take into account the influence of climate. There are even forms for calculating this layer, which you should definitely refer to if your house is, say, far from the southern sea coast. Mineral wool has a number of positive aspects, for example, non-flammability. It is used everywhere.
As for the brick, you need to take into account the ventilation between it and the shell. This is done to prevent the appearance of fungus and other harmful organisms.
Expanded polystyrene is also very popular now. A processed, painted, plastered house is upholstered with this insulation. Due to it, the gaps and seams between the blocks of shell rock are hidden, the “draft” disappears. At the same time, heating costs are reduced by 1.5-2 times. After fixing the foam, it is plastered. It turns out a finished neat look with good thermal insulation properties.
The choice of wall insulation made of shell rock is yours. Take advantage of knowledge about necessary materials and boldly build warm walls!
