home ceilings

How to properly insulate an adobe house. Exterior decoration of an adobe house and ventilation device. Olga, Salsk, Rostov region

The subfloor is one of the main components of the floor structure as a whole, on top of which, after carrying out the necessary additional previous measures, the fine finish chosen by the owner of the housing is laid. This design may have different structure and made from various materials.

Regardless of the design chosen, the subfloor will consist of several basic layers, information on which is given in the following table.

Table. The structure of the subfloor

Layer	Description and functions
Underlayment	Provides uniform distribution of loads created by the structural elements arranged above. It is the bottom layer of the pie. Traditionally, it is a floor slab or a suitably prepared soil.
Leveling layer	The functions are clear from the name and boil down to leveling the bumps of the previous layer. If necessary, at the stage of arranging the leveling layer, the required slope of the surface is set. For the arrangement, sand and gravel are traditionally used, as well as a concrete screed.
Intermediate layer	It takes on the functions of a kind of layer that connects the lower and higher equipped layers of the subfloor.
insulating layer	Consists of moisture, heat and sound-proof materials. Features of the choice and arrangement of those are determined by the level of the future functional load on the structure.

You will spend significantly less time and effort on arranging such a design than on pouring a screed. In addition, the installation of wooden poles does not require the use of water, which eliminates the likelihood of an increase in air humidity in the room being equipped and makes it possible to simultaneously engage in other planned finishing activities. The logs are directly laid on beams, a concrete base or other supports, which will be discussed later.

AT this case the functions of supports for flooring made of boards, plywood or OSB boards are taken over by the construction of longitudinal logs. The latter can be mounted on support posts or beams, as well as on a mortgage crown. If necessary, logs can even be attached to a concrete base. A specific option is selected in accordance with the features of the equipped building.

If the room has an impressive area, just fixing the lag with the ends to the beams will not be enough to ensure the required structural strength. In this case, support posts are mounted between the walls to maintain the lag. The distance between additional supports is determined mainly by the cross section of the mounted elements. In most cases, it is enough to make columns in increments of up to 0.8 m. Otherwise, be guided by the features of your situation.

Directly the columns are made of concrete or brick. At this point, also be guided by your preferences.

Operating procedure

The sequence of arranging the subfloor according to the logs is as follows:

horizontal marking of the surface is performed. Having determined the required level of installation of the floor, laces, fishing line or dense thread are stretched across the place of future installation of the log - such marking will allow you to orient yourself in the process of arranging the log and place them on the same level. If you wish, you can not do this, but then you will have to check the horizontalness of the supports at each stage of work, spending more time correcting inaccuracies;
the surface is covered with a waterproofing material, for example, with a polyethylene film 200 microns thick. Such a layer will protect wooden logs from moisture from concrete, soil and other sources;
the optimal lag setting step is determined. To do this, you need to know the expected level of load on the future structure. In residential areas, it is recommended to adhere to a 35-45 cm step. If the base cannot boast of perfect evenness, the logs will have to be attached to pre-arranged linings. As such, pieces of plywood are most often used;
holes are drilled in the base to accommodate dowels. Next, the dowels are driven in directly. In conclusion, it remains to simply fasten the logs to the base using self-tapping screws.

If necessary, the space between the lags is filled with insulation. From backfills, expanded clay is most often used, from "monolithic" materials - mineral wool insulation. When choosing a specific option, consider climatic features your region and focus on the available budget.

Flooring can be made from plywood, chipboard, OSB or wooden board. The task is extremely simple: the elements of the rough flooring are laid perpendicular to the logs and nailed to them.

A very effective option, rapidly gaining popularity among domestic developers. To perform the work, plastic screw racks are used, which are characterized by high reliability and service life.

This technology allows you to quickly equip the subfloor, which will not creak in the future. At the same time, you do not have to waste time determining the required thickness of plywood linings and their arrangement - the verticality of the legs can be easily adjusted to the required level. After installation, the logs will not come into contact with the base, which is also an additional advantage.

The procedure is as follows:

in the places of the planned installation of screw racks (mandatory along the edges and along the length of the product with an average step of 0.5-0.8 m), holes are prepared in the logs;
the log is laid in the right place, starting from one of the walls. Between the wall and the support you need to leave a 1-centimeter gap;
the support is attached to the base, starting from the extreme screw posts. Such a rack has a hollow structure. To fix it, it is enough for the performer to drill a hole in it with a depth of about 4.5 cm, drive a dowel into it, and then hammer in a nail or screw in a self-tapping screw.

At the end, the racks are twisted according to the level, and work continues in accordance with the scheme for arranging the subfloor on standard logs, discussed earlier.

Adjustable plywood subfloors

Quite efficient and interesting option subfloor is a plywood base, installed using special bushings equipped with internal thread. The bushings are inserted into pre-created holes in the plywood. For one sheet standard size 16 holes are usually sufficient. As a result, plywood will, as it were, stand on legs. At the same time, such a base is characterized by impressive resistance indicators - 1 m2 of the subfloor can withstand a load of about 5000 kg.

Dry screed allows you to level all existing defects in the base. At the same time, the installation of such a subfloor can be performed at any desired time of the year.

Draft floor prefabricated with a dry screed. 1. reinforced concrete floor slab; 2. wooden log; 3. flooring made of chipboard, OSB or plywood; 4. vapor barrier (PVC film); 5. expanded clay sand; 6. Knauf gypsum board or superfloor element. 7. elastic pad

The procedure is as follows:

the base is covered with a layer of vapor barrier material, fixed with adhesive tape. Do vapor barrier with an overlap on the walls corresponding to the planned height of the future screed;
between the guides, the composition selected for arranging a dry screed is poured. If the base has large drops, it makes sense to pre-set the rack beacons on the surface according to the level - this will guarantee the correctness and accuracy of the work. In addition, the presence of such beacons will greatly simplify the further fastening of the flooring. The thickness of the backfill layer is selected taking into account the characteristics of a particular situation. On average, it is 30-50 mm;
backfill is leveled with a long rule or rail;
a subfloor flooring is laid on top of the backfill and fastened with self-tapping screws and glue. Drywall sheets, chipboard, plywood sheets with moisture-resistant properties, etc. are traditionally used for flooring.

Floors on reinforced concrete slabs with prefabricated gypsum fiber screed for residential and public buildings(Knauf)

Important nuances of the subfloor device in a wooden house

AT wooden houses the draft floor is most often equipped on the ground (otherwise you can use suitable option from the above list). Job requirements are as follows:

the room must be dry and well ventilated. For this, the foundation design is supplemented with air vents. If the basement has damp soil, a waterproofing layer must be installed on top of it. Traditionally, clay is used for this - it is enough to fill the surface with material and carefully compact it, sprinkling sand on top;
the base must be waterproofed. When working with the foundation, roofing material is most often used. If you wish, you can use another material with a similar purpose.

Before starting work, treat all used wooden elements with a special antiseptic. Impregnation is recommended to be applied in a double layer, maintaining a 5-hour interval. Do not forget to wear personal protective equipment: gloves, a respirator and goggles.

Subfloor boards can be installed in one of the following ways:

over pre-installed H-beams. In this case, the flooring elements are laid in the grooves of the supports;
over T-beams. The boards are laid on the shoulders of the supports;
on black bars. The easiest to use, and therefore the most popular option. It is enough to simply nail the bars to the edges of the beams and lay the boards on top of them.

If the work is carried out in a non-residential premises, if desired, you can replace the boards with a slab and save.

It remains only to lay layers of hydro-, heat- and vapor barrier material on top of the boards. After that, depending on the preferences of the owner, either the finishing flooring is arranged or the screed is poured.

The vapor barrier is attached over the lag

You have become familiar with the subfloor arrangement sequence in accordance with the most common and preferred methods. Choose the option that is most suitable for your case, and everything will definitely work out.

Successful work!

Video - Subfloor device

When creating a project and the subsequent construction of a private house, the question of why a subfloor is needed seems to be secondary. But it should be asked to both designers and builders. And evaluate whether it is worth spending money on it, and in what case.

What is a subfloor?

The simplest definition of a subfloor can be formulated as follows: this is the base on which the flooring is laid - from laminate to parquet and linoleum. The main purpose of such a subfloor is to level the surface so that the coating does not repeat irregularities and looks perfectly smooth. Usually such alignment is required for floors in apartments of multi-storey buildings.

But the subfloor is also called the base under the insulated floor, namely insulated, but not heated. Such a base is also called a croaker. It is created so that in private houses, especially on the lower floors, the floor, in which the heating system is not used, is naturally warm. Such an insulated floor will help save about 20 percent of heat.

It makes sense to consider both subspecies of the subfloor.

The subfloor is laid on supports. Logs can be laid on a screed. But first you need to lay a waterproofing layer. Insulation is laid between the lags, in height it should be the same as the beams. One of the most modern heaters for the floor is ecowool or mineral wool, or other insulation. Also, foam, polystyrene or expanded clay can be used as an insulating layer. wooden elements treated with an antiseptic so that the subfloor is not spoiled by pests and fungus. Also a very important factor is the ventilation of the subfloor, so the boards are not nailed to the floor, so they can be minimally deformed by moisture from basement, but the finished floor will not suffer from this.

A vapor barrier is laid on the insulation. If foil isolon material is used, which is laid with a foil layer up, then this technology helps to retain heat.

The finished floor is laid on top of the insulation, but it is imperative to maintain a gap between the insulation and the flooring of at least one to two centimeters.

The technology for arranging an insulated subfloor, for all its apparent simplicity, requires knowledge of technology and practical experience. In addition, it is the professionals in this industry who will be able to determine for a specific project why a subfloor is needed, namely insulated, and whether it is needed at all. It is believed that in houses built in a warm climate, you can do without it, but where the temperature, especially in winter, is low, it will be necessary.

Leveling subfloor.

It's no secret that new buildings are usually rented out only with a rough screed on the floor, and after buying an apartment, the owners think about how to make the floor as even as possible. Approximately the same is arranged with ceilings, making them stretch. But when aligning both the top and bottom into the rooms, pay attention to how many centimeters from its height will be “stolen”. If in the end result the height approaches two and a half meters, this is already a critical border.

As in the case of an insulated floor, when leveling, everything starts with a log, and boards or plywood are already laid on them, as well as fiberboard or chipboard about thirty millimeters thick.

Sometimes in an apartment, during repairs or redevelopment, communications have to be transferred. Such actions are also performed using the subfloor. Pipes or wiring are located between the finishing and subfloor. Again, the height of the room should be taken into account so as not to reduce it even further.

Any coating on a flat floor will look great, at the same time, even the most expensive coating will not hide bumps, furniture that will stand on a crooked floor will deform over time, and walking on such a floor is completely inconvenient.

Subfloor cost.

The total cost of the subfloor will be calculated based on the cost of the material, the work will cost exactly the same. Therefore, the more expensive the materials for the subfloor, the more expensive the work, and hence the total cost of the subfloor. Of course, the goal will also matter - alignment or insulation - depending on this, different materials and different technologies. Prices can vary from 120 to 1000 or more rubles per square meter.

Based on the foregoing, discuss in detail with designers, builders, craftsmen why a subfloor is needed and whether it is needed in your particular case. If professionals think that you can’t do without it, listen, and if they say that the subfloor will be an extra “weight” of the budget, refuse.

Those living in adobe buildings note that due to the high massiveness and thermal inertia of the walls made of heavy adobe, they are cool in summer, and in winter fluctuations in outside temperature have little effect on the temperature in the house. However, walls made of heavy material are not always energy efficient enough, and they have to be insulated.

Heavy monolithic walls or built of blocks in strength may not be inferior to brick
A wall made of heavy adobe, dense and without voids (density 1200-1600 kg / m³), is close in terms of thermal conductivity to effective (hollow) brick or foam concrete (depending on the ratio of clay and straw in the material) and has a thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.3- 0.6 W/(m × °C).

It will be warmer the more straw it contains.

In the conditions of Ukraine, the wall thickness with such thermal conductivity of the material should be about a meter, which is difficult to implement and unprofitable in terms of labor costs.

Therefore, a wall of heavy adobe is usually made 40-50 cm thick, and then insulated and plastered.
Adobe requires the use of a vapor-permeable insulation. Expanded polystyrene is excluded, adobe construction enthusiasts consider mineral wool to be non-environmentally friendly.

Connoisseurs recommend using reeds (reeds), which do not absorb moisture, do not rot and have a tubular structure with air inside the stems. It is used in the form of mats, laid with a layer of at least 10 cm and firmly fixed to the wall with dowels.

There is a lot of straw in light adobe, so it cannot be used for the construction of load-bearing structures and requires a frame.

2-3 cm of clay or lime plaster are applied over the insulation (the latter is more durable).

The coldest places in any home are the corners.

The advantage of adobe technology is the ability to avoid problem areas by making rounded corners of the outer walls, slightly increasing their thickness.

Light adobe

Walls out light material do not have high inertia, but have a high energy-saving ability (at a density of 500 kg / m³ and below, the material can be used as a heat insulator).

Their thickness can be 25 cm, but blowing through is possible (like a shell rock) and, as a rule, the walls are made 30-40 cm thick. The denser the adobe is rammed, the warmer the structure.
Due to the fact that there is a frame in the wall structure, the density of light adobe can be significantly reduced, achieving a high level of thermal insulation with a thin wall. Even with a wall thickness of 25 cm, the house does not require insulation.

However, in this case, it is important to use a strong plaster and to exclude the formation of cracks in order to avoid through blowing.

Cracks can occur due to loose laying and shrinkage of the material around window frames, in places where the adobe comes into contact with the frame, when the plaster cracks. However, it is easy to cover them up, to renew the plaster (it is easy to repair an adobe house).

Expanded clay or light adobe is usually used to insulate the floor in the house.

What is the best way to insulate a house from the outside? This question worries all owners. The cool temperature in the living room during the cold season creates discomfort, in addition, finances are spent on additional heating, and this is not advisable.

The range of modern heaters is large. To choose the right thermal insulation, you need to familiarize yourself with the technical characteristics of each.

External insulation: choice of material

The market for modern thermal insulation materials is large. These are both synthetic heaters and natural ones. All of them differ from each other in technical characteristics - thermal conductivity, water absorption, specific gravity, installation methods, strength and others.

Among the natural materials for warming the house outside, the following can be distinguished:

adobe (clay + straw + additives);
expanded clay (relevant if the owner decides to build an additional outer wall in half a brick);
warm plaster.

The range of synthetic insulation that can sheathe the walls of the house from the outside is wider:

expanded polystyrenes (regular and extruded);
polyurethane foam;
penoizol;
mineral wool (basalt is preferable).

All heaters can be divided into two groups:

for self-assembly;
for professional installation.

The former include any types of plasters (adobe and warm), expanded polystyrenes (polystyrene and foam), mineral wool, expanded clay.

Polyurethane foam can be attributed to the ideal thermal insulation of the house from the outside, but only specialists can sheathe (insulate) it, since the material is sprayed.

The situation is similar with penoizol (carbamide foam). This is a liquid thermal insulation, the installation of which requires a special installation and high-quality protection of the insulation from moisture.

In order to choose the right material, you need to decide on some conditions:

financial component;
quality of insulation;
complexity / ease of installation.

The most expensive insulation can be called the thermal insulation of the house from the outside with polyurethane foam. Most cheap option- Styrofoam. In addition, it is light, so self-assembly is available (you can sheathe the house from the outside in a day). This insulation does not need a crate, it is glued with special glue directly to the wall.

Advice. Expanded polystyrenes (polystyrene / foam) are demanding on the quality of the walls. Therefore, before warming, they must be put in order - cleaned of the peeling old coating, checked with a level for deviation from the horizontal and leveled, if necessary.

The next option for the price is mineral wool. It is not demanding on the evenness of the walls, but it requires double-sided waterproofing and the installation of a ventilated facade, which entails additional labor costs.

What insulation do you prefer? To answer this question, we need to look at some specifications each of them, and also decide how difficult it is to sheathe the walls of the house from the outside with one or another material.

Expanded polystyrenes

Polyfoam and penoplex are representatives of polystyrene foam. The differences between these heaters in price are significant. The same can be said about their technical characteristics:

Thermal conductivity. For foam plastic and foam plastic, it is approximately the same, but the water absorption of the first is 4 times higher (4% per day) than that of the second. Penoplex almost does not absorb moisture, therefore it is recommended for wall insulation from the outside.

Strength/brittleness. Styrofoam is difficult to work with, as it is fragile and crumbles on the cut. Penoplex has a fine-mesh structure, besides, all cells are very firmly interconnected, so the material is much stronger than polystyrene in bending and compression. It can be cut with a regular or clerical knife, the cut will not crumble.

Flammability. Expanded polystyrenes are combustible heaters. However, modern versions of them are produced using flame retardants, which significantly reduces the risk of accidental ignition. When choosing a material, pay attention to the marking "G". G1 - flame-retardant, self-extinguishing insulation. There is also foam specifically for facade insulation - PSB-S-25F. The proportion of fire retardants in this composition is significant, therefore it is prohibited to use it for insulation inside residential premises.

Sensitivity to solvents. Styrofoam and foam plastic are sensitive to organic solvents, therefore, to sheathe a house with them, use polyurethane foam glue or dry compounds, which are closed with water according to the instructions immediately before use.

The need for finishing. Both types of polyurethane foams must be protected from the effects of atmospheric phenomena. For these purposes, plastering on a fiberglass mesh is used and further painting or applying bark beetle plaster. It is permissible to use warm plaster as additional insulation from the outside.

Important . Styrofoam and foam plastic are rather fragile heaters. Therefore, the layer of plaster mortar should be small.

The disadvantage of such thermal insulation of the walls is the love of rodents to arrange nests in polystyrene foam. So that they cannot reach the insulation, it is necessary to install a zero level from a metal profile. It is impossible to protect yourself from the penetration of mice into the insulation in other ways.

Mineral wool

This heater is chosen by many and it is quite reasonable. Its technical characteristics are more than attractive:

The material is produced in various densities, which allows it to be sheathed not only for the walls of the house from the outside and from the inside, but also to be used for thermal insulation of the floor or roof.
Form of production of mineral wool - mats, rolls, plates, as well as foil insulation.
Basalt thermal insulation does not burn, withstanding heating up to 1000°C. This allows you to use it not only for wall insulation, but also for chimneys.
The thermal conductivity of mineral wool is low.
Water absorption is artificially reduced due to impregnation with water repellents, however, during installation, it is still necessary to lay waterproofing on both sides of the insulation.
Rodents are indifferent to cotton wool.
The material is inert to most chemical and organic solvents.
It is easy to work with cotton wool, so do-it-yourself installation is available.

The technology for installing mineral wool on walls from the outside and from the inside - on glue and frame. In the first case, finishing is done with plaster (wet facade system), in the second - with siding, block-house, porcelain stoneware (hinged and ventilated facade systems).

Frame technology installation of mineral wool includes the following steps:

The wall of the house is treated with an antiseptic and dried.
Then the waterproofing is installed and the bars of the vertical crate are stuffed.
The insulation is cut to size and installed in the niches of the crate by surprise (both “hanging” it and “protrusion” is unacceptable).
After that, mineral wool is tightened with a vapor barrier membrane.
You can additionally install horizontal guides that will fix the wool in the niches.

Additional actions are not required to properly sheathe the outside of the house with mineral wool. The finishing of such insulation - siding, block house, porcelain stoneware - any options installed on the frame or crate.

Expanded clay and adobe

Natural heaters are cheap, acquiring them is not a problem. Therefore, quite often the owners of private houses choose them. In addition, they are environmentally friendly, breathe, which is attractive to many.

The walls of the house are insulated with expanded clay at the construction stage. You can do this after it is over, but for such insulation you need to lay out additional walls at a distance of about 20 cm from the main ones. Get a well masonry. The space between the walls must be isolated from moisture and covered with expanded clay (mix the insulation of various fractions), then shed with cement milk to reduce its settling and increase strength.

Important . As additional thermal insulation, walls already insulated with expanded clay can be finished outside with warm plaster.

Saman has been used to insulate the walls of houses for a long time. But the technology behind it is complex. Nobody knows the exact recipe for the plaster composition, since a lot depends on the quality of the clay. Therefore, this method of wall insulation from the outside is considered complex and time-consuming (every time the master experiments). Insulated walls must be protected from moisture, so they are whitewashed with lime. The result of such thermal insulation is an environmentally friendly house, in which it is pleasant to be at any time of the year.

What material to focus on

After analyzing the installation technology and some qualities of heaters, it is easy to decide which one to choose. The easiest and cheapest way is to sheathe the outside of the house with foam. More expensive and better - penoplex. Mineral wool refers to breathable materials, but for it it is necessary to equip a ventilated facade. Polyurethane foam is not picky about the quality of the walls, it sticks to them perfectly, completely insulates the house from the penetration of cold air and moisture, but the price of such insulation is high. thermal insulation natural materials- for an amateur. They are cheap, but require significant labor costs.