Thin heaters for baths polymeric. We choose which insulation to use for the bath in the steam room: so that the steam room is hot and environmentally friendly. Which material is better

In the bath, a well-insulated steam room quickly gains the desired temperature and cools down more slowly, which means that the bath as a whole becomes more economical and practical. We figure out how to insulate the steam room in the bath from the inside with our own hands, how the layout of the room, the choice of material and their installation affect the quality of bath procedures, and also what dangers may lie in case of improper warming of the steam room.

Source solomonplus.com.ua

The device, insulation and finishing of the steam room, what you should pay attention to

If it's time to build a bath, then first you need to design the placement of the steam room, then decide on the finish option, and, based on this, carry out the insulation of the room.

Steam room device

Planning is the easiest stage in construction, but it is at this stage that it is necessary to take into account all sorts of nuances that can only arise in the process.

When designing a steam room, consider:

• the number of people who can simultaneously bathe in it;
• type of heating furnace.

Based on this, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, the distance between the shelves, their distance from the furnace, the placement of ventilation and much more are calculated.

If the task of how to make a steam room in a bathhouse with your own hands according to all the rules turns out to be overwhelming work, then it is better to contact the designers, or choose the standard layout option. For example, a steam room with an area of ​​​​2 m wide and 2.4 m long, with a ceiling height of no more than 2.2 m, can accommodate up to three people.

Source www.skvb-nn.com

The interior of the steam room

Usually for facing the steam room use wooden lining, the only difference is the nature of the material. Of course, it is possible to make the sheathing with plastic, but this is a short-lived material if used at high temperatures. Plus, under the influence of hot air, plastic can become a source of toxic substances, so spending time in such a steam room will not only be uncomfortable, but also dangerous.

The correct cladding material is the tree of the following species - linden, aspen, alder, larch. The lining of them is quite heat-resistant and does not deform under prolonged exposure to hot steam. Each of them emits its own individual smell.

Do not use wood containing resin. Under the influence of high temperature, a heavy odor will be released, and drops of resin will appear on the surface. If you really like the smell of a coniferous forest, you can take branches of trees or cones with you to the steam room.

When buying material, pay attention to the presence of defects such as cracks and knots. They should not be, otherwise, when heated, the cracks will only expand, and the knots will fall out altogether, forming a through hole.

Source provagonky.ru

Warming

Next, we figure out how to make a steam room in the bath correctly and why insulate the steam room from the inside. Usually the material for the manufacture of baths is timber, less often brick or concrete. If you do not sheathe the steam room from the inside with mineral wool and clapboard, then in the process of creating hot steam, it will be necessary to warm up the supporting beam or brickwork. For example, to heat the air in an uninsulated steam room up to 100 degrees under the ceiling, 120 kW is needed. Warm hour. Provided that the steam room is insulated from the inside, only 15 kW will be needed for heating. Warm hour. Obviously, it is worth doing insulation, but how to insulate the steam room from the inside, the question remains open for now.

Scheme of thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool, followed by clapboard cladding Source masterfasada.ru

properties insulate attention

Before insulating the steam room in the bath from the inside, before lining the clapboard, you should figure out which material is suitable for these purposes.

Insulation for a steam room should have the following properties:

• Moisture resistance. Since the steam room is a place with a high concentration of moisture, the material must be inert to water and, if possible, vapors, otherwise it will get wet and lose its qualities.
• temperature resistance. Since the steam room is a place with a high concentration of moisture, the material must be inert to water and, if possible, vapors, otherwise it will get wet and lose its qualities.
• Security. Insulation when heated should not emit harmful substances.

There are a lot of options for insulating a steam room in a bath. For example, it is preferable to insulate the walls and ceiling inside with basalt or stone mineral wool. To increase the moisture resistance of the insulation, aluminum foil or a ready-made heat-insulating material with a foil layer is used. For horizontal surfaces (floor, attic space), preference is given to bulk materials - perlite or expanded clay.

Source provagonky.ru

Comparison of vapor permeability of some materials (10(-6)kg/m x sec x atm):

• aluminum foil - 0;
• glass - 0;
• steel - 0;
• polyethylene films - 0;
• polystyrene - 0.1;
• pine board - 2;
• expanded clay concrete - 3;
• mineral wool - 7.

As you can see, mineral wool, having good thermal insulation properties, practically does not have vapor barrier. To fix this, use a vapor barrier, for example, aluminum foil or mineral wool with a foil layer on one side. Polyethylene films, although they have zero vapor permeability, but, having a low temperature threshold, are not suitable for use, since they emit an unpleasant odor when heated.

Source legkovmeste.ru

On our site you can get acquainted with the most - from the construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Floor insulation.

Let's figure out how to insulate the steam room so that the high air temperature lasts long enough. To do this, it is necessary to exclude all possible heat leakage. And you have to start from the floor. In winter, the earth freezes to an average depth of 1 m (depending on the region of residence), therefore, the better the floor is insulated, the less heat loss through it will be.

To insulate the floor around the entire perimeter of the steam room, a hole is dug with a depth of not about 60 cm relative to the level of the clean floor mark. A sand cushion 5 cm thick is lined along the bottom of the pit. The next layer is a heat-insulating material, for example, foam plastic, 20 cm thick. Then 2 layers of cement screed with expanded clay, 5 cm each. And a finishing screed made of concrete grade M 200, mesh reinforced with a cell width of 10 cm. When pouring concrete, a slope is formed towards the sewer drain.

After 14 days (the time required for the concrete to fully set), a plank floor is laid.

Non-spillable floor. Laying process Source i.pinimg.com

Ceiling insulation

Let's consider how to insulate the ceiling in the steam room of the bath from the inside and outside, from the side of the attic.

Regardless of what material the ceiling is made of - reinforced concrete slabs or wood, the ceiling of the steam room must be additionally insulated.

Along the perimeter of the ceiling, a vapor barrier film is spread over the walls, pressing it to the surface of the slab with wooden bars 100x100 (mm), the distance between them is 50 cm, or otherwise, depending on the width of the insulation boards used. Basalt mineral wool 10 cm thick is laid between the bars. The main foil vapor barrier is rolled out, which is pressed against the clapboard. The optimal thickness of the wooden sheathing is 10 mm; nails with flattened caps are used to fasten the lining.

The ceiling outside (in the attic) is also subject to insulation. To do this, a waterproofing material is rolled out on the surface and a layer of expanded clay is laid with a thickness of 15-20 cm.

Source static-eu.insales.ru

Thermal insulation of the walls of the steam room

Consider how to make a steam room in the bath so that the heat stays longer. To do this, it is necessary to create the effect of a thermos and insulate not only the horizontal structures of the room, but also the vertical ones. The algorithm of work is similar to the insulation of the ceiling from the inside.

It must be taken into account that wooden bath from a bar in the first two years of operation shrinks up to 20 cm, depending on the frequency of use of the building. Therefore, when calculating door and window openings, it is necessary to make a margin in height of up to 20 cm, and when insulating walls, use special structural elements.

The first thing to do is to prepare the surface before warming, cleaning it from debris, dirt and dust.

Second, the formation of a wooden frame for the subsequent laying of heat-insulating material. To do this, from the bars 5x5 cm or 6x6 (depending on the thickness of the insulation), a crate is formed in increments of 50 cm.

If the clapboard lining is “horizontal”, then the crate is performed vertically, and vice versa, with “vertical” clapboard lining, the crate bars are stuffed horizontally.

The third stage is the laying of a vapor-waterproofing film (it is better to use a stapler to fix it) and insulation.

The fourth stage is vapor barrier with aluminum foil, the joints of which are glued with metallized tape.

Video description

This video clearly shows the nuances correct installation aluminum vapor barrier:

The foil is fixed with a counter-lattice of slats 2-3 cm thick. This allows you to create an air gap between the vapor barrier and the lining, and further reduce the thermal conductivity of the walls.

The fifth and final stage is lining with clapboard.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

We make a steam room in the bath correctly and beautifully

Let's figure out what it means to make it beautiful, and how to make a steam room in the bath correctly.

Area calculation

A properly made steam room is directly responsible for the safety of bath procedures. Therefore, do not neglect the calculations when designing a steam room and a bath in general. The dimensions of the room must be calculated not only in terms of cost savings to create the desired temperature. It is necessary to take into account the possibility of servicing heating elements, ventilation shafts, as well as the convenience of using the bath.

Video description

All of the above points have already been taken into account in standard projects baths. What they are, see the following video:

Hire a professional or do it yourself

How to insulate a steam room in a bath: a comparison of options for hiring an experienced professional and independent work.

The main advantages of building a bathhouse and insulating a steam room with your own hands:

1. Saving money for paying hired labor, or rather for its absence. After all, all the work is done by the owner himself.
2. Total control, from the purchase of materials to installation, again due to the fact that everything is done independently without the involvement of third-party people and organizations.

The main disadvantages of do-it-yourself construction:

1. Time. Without working skills and not knowing the design standards, it will take a very long time to study this issue.
2. Speed. The work that a specialist will do in a matter of hours, an inexperienced person will do for several days, so that the quality is at a high level.
3. Inflated prices when buying materials. As a rule, when buying materials in bulk, you can save up to 50% of the funds. This is used by organizations working on a turnkey basis, purchasing material for several objects at once.

Source banyaportal.ru

Beauty is in the details

As a rule, making a steam room in a bath beautiful is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. First of all, they are responsible for presentability in the steam room interior decoration walls, ceilings, floors, shelves and lighting fixtures.

To finish the walls, ceiling and floor, lining of different types of wood is used. You can also combine wood finishes with tiles and masonry.

Source brodude.ru

Source roomester.ru

Highlights on warming the steam room in a wooden bath

Wooden structures shrink during the first years, therefore, it is better to start warming the bathhouse and carry out work on interior decoration 1-2 years after the installation of the log house. If you neglect this rule, then in a year cracks will appear in the walls of the bath, which will have to be carefully caulked, sometimes more than once.

If a decision is made to insulate yourself, then it is necessary to draw up a sequence of work and impeccably execute all points existing rules and instructions on how to properly make a steam room in a wooden bath.

A steam room insulated according to all the rules is a thermos, which is why, in addition to insulation, during work, steam and waterproofing materials are used, which not only increase the service life of the material, but also increase its thermal insulation properties.

The structure of the steam room-thermos:

• load-bearing wall or partition;
• waterproofing;
• thermal insulation;
• vapor barrier;
• interior decoration.

Video description

Visually warming the bath from the inside is shown in this video:

Materials for insulation

There are many thermal insulation materials on the market that are suitable both for warming the steam room and for warming other buildings. Therefore, among them it is worth highlighting those that are suitable specifically for interior work in the bath.

It is worth paying attention to the following characteristics:

• increased fire resistance;
• low thermal conductivity;
• resistance to damage by rodents and insects.

Most often, mineral wool is used, it not only meets all of the above properties, but is also easy to install, which is important when the task is how to make a steam room in a bath with your own hands.

There are no special requirements for waterproofing films. But with regard to vapor barrier - there is. Cost-effective option, both in terms of cost and installation work is aluminum foil. In order for the foil to work correctly, it is necessary to insulate the room with high quality by gluing all the joints with aluminum tape.

Sources of heat loss

At first glance, the window in the steam room is an extra item, but the room with it looks much more comfortable and presentable. And so that the heat does not leave the room, you need to properly install the window, use a two- or three-chamber double-glazed window. Therefore, how to make a steam room with or without a window is up to you.

Source tovarim.ru

How smaller size door, the less heat will escape when it is opened. Also, the gap at the threshold can be a source of cold air getting inside the steam room, so the threshold under the door is made as high as possible.

Another point of keeping the heat in the room is the use of stones. The greater the heat capacity they will have, the faster it will warm up and the slower the air in the steam room will cool.

The procedure for insulating the walls of the steam room in a bath from rounded timber.

In connection with the shrinkage of the tree in the first years after the construction of the bath, cracks appear at the junctions of the logs, in some places up to 1 cm. Therefore, before insulating the steam room from the inside, it is necessary to caulk all the cracks with tow, both outside the building and inside, perhaps even more than once.

Further, a crate is mounted inside, for the subsequent laying of insulation. The bars are attached to the bar using sliding corners, this will allow for the option of "walking" the tree during the operation of the bath. The step of the crate depends on the width of the thermal insulation material.

Source provagonky.ru

Insulation boards are laid between the crate. To reduce the insulation process, you can use a heater with an aluminum vapor barrier layer. All joints and wooden guides are carefully glued with metallized tape.

Ceiling insulation

How to insulate a steam room in a bath in order to minimize heat loss during bath procedures. You need to properly insulate the ceiling. After all, warm air rises, and if there are cracks in the ceiling, the heat will go outside.

Since the hottest air accumulates under the ceiling, the insulation layer should be twice as thick as the wall insulation.

The warming algorithm is as follows:

1. Roll out a layer of waterproofing, fixing it with a crate of bars for laying insulation. The distance between the bars can be made 1-2 cm less so that the mineral wool is laid adjacent to them.
2. Lay out the heater.
3. Cover all cracks, wooden protrusions, joints, gaps with aluminum foil, which acts as a vapor barrier material. Make an overlap of 15 cm on the walls. Seal all connections and fastening points with staples with metallized adhesive tape.
4. Be sure to perform a counter-lattice for laying the lining. The air gap will preserve the integrity of the facing material for many years.

Video description

How to insulate the ceiling correctly:

What dangers await you with improper warming of the steam room

Sooner or later, the flaws of improper work will come out. There are only two main ones:

1. Wrong choice of materials. As a result, you can get an unpleasant odor emitted by the material when heated, poor heat retention and, as a result, a large consumption of heat and energy.
2. Violation of the tightness of the room. It is observed with improper vapor barrier of walls and ceiling. In this case, there will be a leakage of steam, a decrease in heat and an increase in the consumption of thermal energy. Under the influence of hot air, the deformation of finishing materials and internal structures of the building will occur. Steam turning into water will become a source of dampness, in the future bad smell and mildew.

Briefly about the main

Particular attention should be paid to warming the steam room from the inside. You need to start with the layout of the steam room, the choice of lining and material for insulation.

Mineral wool is considered the best insulation; expanded clay is preferable for the floor. Aluminum foil is used as a vapor barrier.

It is necessary to approach the process with great responsibility. Therefore, it is up to you to decide how to make a steam room on your own or with the involvement of professionals.

When building a bath, it is important to carefully make thermal insulation. To prevent expensive heat from the inside from escaping, various seals and heaters are used. However, unlike a residential building, there are a number of nuances associated with temperature changes and high humidity. This must be taken into account when choosing thermal insulation materials. The domestic market offers a wide range of specialized products. Experts recommend considering the following points when buying.

1. Heaters, which will be mounted from the inside of the bath, are selected taking into account environmental friendliness. Humidity and heat dissolve toxic compounds, which then enter the lungs or on the skin of people.
2. The next important parameter of a heater for a bath is water repellency. This primarily applies to such premises as the steam room and washing room.
3. Most often, baths are separate unheated buildings. The temperature difference inside is from -30 to +100°C. Not every heater can cope with such a load.
4. In any Russian bath there is a stove. To insulate the chimney, a heat insulator with high resistance to fire is selected.
5. Since the bath is built for many years, then good quality insulation will be durable. Some materials can serve properly for more than 100 years.
6. The classics of the bathing genre is the structure of logs. One of the important stages of insulation will be the filling of interventional cracks and voids. The better this work is done, the less funds will be required for the thermal insulation of the walls from the inside. It remains to pay more attention to the floor and ceiling.

Our review includes the best heaters for a bath. When selecting applicants, the following criteria were taken into account:

• purpose of the material;
• specifications;
• price;
• expert opinion;
• consumer reviews.

TOP 7 best heaters for a bath

7 Styrofoam

The best heater for the dressing room
Country Russia
Average price: 4 rubles (1 sq. m)
Rating (2019): 4.4

The strengths of foam are low price and lightness. Therefore, the masters use this insulator both where possible and where not. A typical example is the bath. Convenient to use polymer material does not absorb moisture, therefore it has the right to claim the title the best insulation for a bath. It is easily cut with a knife, it can be fixed with ordinary nails or self-tapping screws. But there is one significant limitation. At high temperatures, the material can deform, and even worse, emit an unpleasant and dangerous odor of phenol for human health. In addition, the foam burns well, so it is not safe to use it near the stove.

Given all these features of the heat insulator, experts recommend using the material for warming the dressing room. And it is better to do it from the outside. And the joints between the individual sheets will have to be glued with foam.

6 Foam glass

Strength and moisture resistance
Country Russia
Average price: 1,600 rubles. (1 sqm)
Rating (2019): 4.5

Every year, the eco-friendly foam glass insulation material becomes more and more popular. Due to its strength and moisture resistance, the material is suitable for thermal insulation of the bath. Lightweight blocks with a cellular structure tolerate high temperatures, are not afraid of acids or organic solvents. Experts attribute exceptional durability and harmlessness to the human body to the advantages of the material. Foam glass as a heater can be used to isolate the interior of the bath. Microorganisms do not develop in the insulation, rodents and insects do not settle.

Builders note the high strength of the material, ease of installation. In this case, it is necessary to lay the blocks on the crosses, similar to the installation of tiles. This is done to remove excess moisture from the room. An alternative would be to drill holes. The disadvantage of foam glass is still a high price.

5 Mineral wool

Universal heater for a bath
Country Russia
Average price: 760 rubles. (1 sqm)
Rating (2019): 4.7

Mineral wool is widely used in the construction industry. With the right approach, it can become a universal heater for a bath. Experts call the strengths of the material an acceptable price, biostability and fire safety. And in terms of ease of installation, the heat insulator is one of the best. Since mineral wool loses its beneficial features when wet, it is important to use it together with vapor and waterproofing materials. Then it will be possible to effectively insulate the floor, walls and ceiling, both from the inside of the bath and from the outside. In addition to retaining heat, mineral wool is an excellent sound insulator.

Builders call mineral wool a classic of insulation. It can be used at different stages of the construction of the bath. It is only necessary to prevent contact with water, otherwise, over time, the material will begin to crumble. And in the steam room, this heater is better not to use.

4 Expanded clay

Affordable floor and attic insulation
Country Russia
Average price: 180 rubles. (1 cubic meters)
Rating (2019): 4.7

For loose expanded clay heat insulator in the bath there is also a place of honor. This insulation is not afraid of moisture, microorganisms do not develop in it, rodents or insects do not visit it. The main areas of application in the bath are the floor and the attic. But if, under the roof, expanded clay simply crumbles between the beams, forming a continuous layer of insulation, then there may be some options when installing the floor. In one case, expanded clay is added to the concrete screed, the other way is to fill the space between the lags. The advantages of expanded clay can also include environmental friendliness, durability and reasonable price.

Builders call bulk material based on clay is the best heat insulator for floors and attics. However, when working with it, you should observe elementary accuracy. If the granules are damaged, the thermal conductivity of the material increases dramatically.

3 Foil insulation

Effective thermal insulator for the ceiling
Country Russia
Average price: 130 rubles. (1 sq. m)
Rating (2019): 4.8

One of the most difficult stages in the construction of a bath is the insulation of the ceiling from the inside. The best option would be to use foil materials. Due to the thin aluminum coating, the thermal insulator reflects heat and light. Thus, it is possible to keep the heat in the steam room or sauna. In addition, the foil becomes a reliable barrier against the penetration of moisture into the insulation. The fire resistance of the heat insulator can be used when finishing the chimney. Due to the use of foil insulation, it is possible to reduce the total thickness of the ceiling and increase sound insulation.

Experts note the light weight of the heat insulator, its high efficiency, absolute environmental friendliness and hygiene. Users consider corrosion of the metal coating to be the main disadvantage, therefore it is additionally necessary to treat the foil with special protective compounds.

2 Interventional insulation

Reliable thermal insulation of a wooden frame
Country Russia
Average price: 10 rubles. (1m)
Rating (2019): 4.9

It is necessary to start warming a log bath at the time of the construction of the walls. To do this work is extremely simple if you purchase an interventional heat insulator. In a classic Russian bath, it becomes the main type of wall insulation. Builders prefer ribbon jute to traditional moss or flax. The thickness of the material ranges from 4 to 15 mm. Experts highlight such advantages of a heat insulator as high density and uniformity. After shrinkage of logs the seam becomes even more tight, preventing penetration of wind and moisture from the outside. The material is easy to install, it needs to be rolled out on the surface of a beam or log and fixed with staples using a stapler.

The jute interventional insulation shows the best properties if its structure is not broken. Accordingly, the minus of the material will be excessive stiffness of the fibers and instability to fracture.

1 Basalt insulation

The most suitable wall insulator
Country Russia
Average price: 175 rubles. (1 sqm)
Rating (2019): 4.9

Experts consider safety to be one of the main advantages of basalt insulation over other heat insulators. The material made on the basis of rocks does not burn, is not afraid of moisture, does not emit harmful chemical compounds at high temperatures. And given the good heat and sound insulation properties, simple installation and long service life (30 years), the material is optimally suited for wall insulation from the inside of the bath. Neither the temperature difference nor the strong fluctuations in humidity are able to deform or destroy the rock. Basalt has another significant plus; rodents and insects are absolutely not interested in this heater.

In addition to walls, experts use basalt insulation for floor and roof insulation. However, the high price does not always allow the use of an insulator as a universal material. The disadvantage of basalt can be big weight.

If you yourself are planning to build or repair a steam room, then most likely you have thought: what is the best way to insulate the ceiling in the bath from the inside and how to properly cover it with your own hands, and also looked for examples from the video.

Why is it necessary

A person in a steam room often encountered such a phenomenon as condensate. It is formed when hot steam rises and drops of water appear in the room. It does not matter whether the steam room is built into the room or it is a separate structure, it is necessary to insulate it. The only question is how and to what extent. If it is built into the room, excess heat can go into the house. Therefore, a thermal chamber is required.

The wooden parts of the structure are most exposed to the aggressive effects of high temperatures and moisture. Therefore, the coating must be of high quality in order to provide a “perfect” microclimate in the steam room.

In order for wood to serve longer, it is impregnated with various compounds (additives - flame retardants). They increase durability. This safety measure is justified, because the temperature in the steam room reaches 100°C. However, anti-mould chemical coatings at high temperatures will release noxious fumes.

The main "ally" wood flooring- insulation, which should keep hot steam indoors and prevent the development of rot. It protects the wood from condensation, prevents wood from rotting and prolongs the service life.

Proper insulation of the ceiling in a bath or steam room with your own hands implies compliance with the following points:

1. Steam must be accumulated and stored indoors.
2. The roof must be protected from the inside. high humidity.
3. It is necessary to prevent the occurrence and accumulation of condensate both in the steam room itself and in the ceilings under the lining in the walls and ceiling.

Features of heaters

Not all products are used for insulation. Plastic products will deform from high temperatures. If you use plywood or fiberboard, then from hot air they will begin to expand and change shape, accumulate moisture. These products are definitely not suitable. the best way considered finishing with several layers:

1. First you need to use an insulating material that prevents the penetration of water.
2. Put a second layer of insulation (for example, mineral wool).
3. The third level is aluminum foil.

This “layering” holds heat well and does not allow steam to escape for a long time, so heat losses are reduced.

Heaters can be divided into the following types:

• fibers;
• plates;
• blocks;
• wall plates;
• backfill.

And depending on the composition, they distinguish:

• Organic such as ecowool.
• Inorganic - mineral wool.
• Styrofoam.
• Other heaters such as technovent and technoblock.

Functions of thermal insulation of the bath ceiling

Quality insulation material should be:

• heat-resistant so that there is no fire;
• environmentally friendly (should not emit harmful fumes);
• “breathe” so that water does not collect and condensate does not accumulate;
• moisture resistant.

Varieties and design features

First you need to find out what kind of roof you have - with and without an attic. Structurally similar options for buildings made of logs and panels. They have:

• steam insulation;
• insulation;
• filing from boards;
• beams
• sheathing.

A vapor barrier goes to the wall and ceiling, then a beam, then a heater. Can be used basalt wool in the form of mats, then again a layer of vapor barrier, then a bar and fixing the lining. As an option, respectively, a beam of 40 mm and a heater of 40 mm. You don't need too much insulation. Waste of materials in this case inappropriate.

On the ceiling, the structure must be made with a slope in order to collect condensate. As a result, a space remains under the lining, allowing the bath to dry out. The power of a modern stove is enough to heat a bath well. Ideally, the steam room is dried by ventilation and a fuel-recycling oven.

If there is no attic, then you need to perform additional steps:

• coat the entire lining with clay up to two centimeters in order to reduce heat loss;
• sprinkle the coating with a mixture of cement and wood chips (you can use slag up to 15 cm - this measure helps to eliminate condensate).

If you want to make a properly working steam room, then you first need to take care of the vapor barrier (not waterproofing with vapor permeability) of the ceiling to create a steam pocket up to the level of the top edge of the door to retain steam and create humidity in the region of 60%.

The vapor barrier of the floor beams and the entire ceiling pie is already a consequence, not a cause. Ceiling insulation without foil is completely irrelevant, since the steam room will not perform the functions that are assigned to it. If you need a steam bath, and not a sauna, you will have to open the casing and deal with the vapor barrier of the ceiling. If this is not done on time, then after a season or two you will have to replace the damp insulation and rotten beams.

To protect wall structures, regardless of what they are made of, it is necessary to insulate from the outside to prevent moisture in the form of condensate through the dew point into the material. For the Russian type of bath, wall insulation from the inside is not necessary, since it is possible to create a regime of 60 ° and 60% even with leaky walls, but with a well waterproofed ceiling and a voluminous brick oven with a powerful thermal core inside. Ideally, put foam glass insulation on top of aerated concrete walls with 50 mm thick plates, and then plaster and make decorative trim tree.

Decking ceiling

You don't see him as often as before. The use of hewn round timber is widespread. This method used to be considered the most profitable - people only had to go into the forest and chop everything they needed for construction themselves. Now this is the most expensive option.

There are several installation options.

1. On the crowns of the log house, if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is small (length is not more than 2.5 m). As a floor, boards of small thickness (50 mm) are used, an even more economical way is edged tongue-and-groove options (25 mm).
2. There is interesting option ceilings with unedged sanded boards. They are placed on 2 levels. Gaps and irregularities of the first level are covered by the second level.
3. On floor beams. With this option, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room may be larger. The emphasis on the beams will add zest and will look great.
4. On a supporting frame made of rails. Suitable for small areas and is used less often. Make it easier. But if the room has an attic, then it cannot be used. The roof may not be able to handle heavy loads.

The process takes place in several steps.

1. In the attic, a vapor barrier film (PIP) is lined with an overlap of 10-15 cm (foil surface down).
2. Mineral wool is placed on top of it (instead of it, you can fill the surface with expanded clay or cover it with a mixture of sawdust and clay).
3. The work is completed by laying a waterproofing film (HIP) - roofing felt or polyethylene.

False ceilings

They have a load-bearing capacity, they are often used as an attic, and their installation will cost you much less.

To make this coating, you need to install the beams in advance. Then boards or boards made of tongue-and-groove boards are evenly laid on them. This design is insulated with fibrous material. The installation process will take place in stages:

1. The GUI is taken and laid on the beams from the side of the roof. This is done in a flash.
2. Boards or sheets of plywood are placed on the waterproofing.
3. Mineral wool is laid between the beams. Its thickness varies from 150 to 250 mm (depending on the climate of the area). All joints must be closed with another sheet.
4. From the bottom of the beams we fix the vapor barrier.
5. Then we attach the slats of wood.
6. At the last stage, the lining is attached.

After completing all the work, you will get additional storage space - an attic or an attic.

panel ceiling

It's hard to do it yourself. To begin with, a special design is made of panels. Then it must be fixed on top of the transverse beams or on the top of the wall. How is the installation:

1. Boards are placed close to the supports (perpendicularly).
2. Then we fasten narrow boards to the inside of the PCB, they will be the sides.
3. The next step will be the laying of the PIP.
4. In the resulting space of the panels we put ecowool (or any other).
5. Then you need to put a film of polyethylene or roofing material.
6. The final stage will be the installation of boards, they will be the future floor.

Insulation for the ceiling in the bath: which material is best suited

It used to be customary to use natural raw materials such as moss, clay, sawdust, straw or earth.

Now people began to apply the most effective coatings. They make all the work easier, even if you are a non-professional builder. For example, it is widely used:

• basalt wool;
• expanded clay;
• penoizol;
• ecowool and others.

And you can also use foam and glass wool. But when heated, the first exudes harmful gases and can ignite. And for working with fiberglass, a good protective suit is shown.

The question is whether or not to insulate the entire building only inside or on both sides. There are many opinions on this, but the truth is in the middle. There are many additional factors to be aware of:

• this is a Russian bath or sauna;
• What material is the bath made of?
• what oven is worth.

How to insulate outside

In order for the steam to remain inside and not escape to the outside, you need to achieve the effect of a "thermos". Insulation must be both inside and outside the building. To achieve this effect, you will need a heater for the ceiling in the bath. There are different options:

• waterproofing film;
• expanded clay;
• mineral wool or others.

Builders create a “layered cake” from these elements. Blocks are used from the side of the roof. PIP is placed on top. And the last layer is expanded clay, fibrous and other materials.

How to insulate from the inside

Consider some modern views heaters:

• expanded clay;
• mineral wool;
• ecowool;
• foamed polypropylene;
• penoizol;
• growing aerated concrete.

Mineral wool

It has a fibrous structure that looks like ordinary cotton wool. During the production process, a crushed mixture of various rocks (basalt, dolomite, limestone) is added to it. This cotton wool is very popular due to its properties:

• long service time;
• good hygroscopicity (excellently absorbs water);
• resistance to overheating (fireproof).

Cotton wool thickness from 20 to 25 mm. The efficiency is much higher if it is laid on the PIP. To work with it, you need a tight suit and rubber gloves.

Foil insulation

It is perfect for insulating the ceiling in the bath. Metal spraying retains heat and provides good vapor barrier. This is economically advantageous, because little fuel is required to heat the room. This heater is:

• mineral wool with an aluminum film (produced in rolls and plates);
• foil-based polymer sheet (has a small thickness, is available in the form of rolls).

Foil has 2 purposes:

• reflect IR rays;
• protection (waterproofing or vapor barrier) of the ceiling from moisture and decay.

Such insulation holds high temperatures, is easy to cut, and does not emit toxic fumes. But if the whole steam room is packed in foil, then it is absolutely not vapor-permeable. Therefore, the room turns out to be not comfortable (heavy), like in a greenhouse, respectively, in such a bath it is necessary to make competent ventilation.

Expanded clay

By appearance resembles small clay stones with pores. It absorbs water abundantly, which is its weak side. It is used in combination with steam and waterproofing materials. Expanded clay has many advantages:

• environmentally friendly product, without extraneous toxic impurities;
• does not ignite;
• has a long service life;
• it does not form bacteria and fungi;
• cheap product;
• it is easy to use.

Penoizol

It is a foam in liquid form, it is referred to as heat-insulating materials. It fills all areas (even hard-to-reach). It has many advantages:

• cheapness;
• great quality(does not expand when dry);
• does not ignite;
• serves for a long time;
• it does not form mold and fungus.

Cement and sawdust

This method of insulation is characterized as "grandfather". To make the finished mixture, you need 10 parts of sawdust, one of lime, and one of cement. Then add 1.5 parts of water to get the finished product.

The solution is evenly distributed over the entire surface. Economically, this is a profitable option, since the cost is very low. In addition, the resulting solution is environmentally friendly. Minuses:

• it is difficult to prepare;
• thermal insulation properties are lower in comparison with other options;
• no mold protection
• when dry, cracks appear that need to be greased.

Ecowool insulation

Enough effective method keeping warm. Environmentally friendly cellulose pulp. Substances that improve its properties are added to it: boric acid, sodium tetraborate. Thanks to them, ecowool:

• fire resistant;
• resists the development of bacteria;
• prevents the appearance of insects and rodents.

It is also light and spreads over the entire area, filling voids. Its main disadvantage is the absorption of moisture. This reduces thermal insulation.

Product Features for Insulation

Manufacturers offer various membrane films that protect materials from high humidity. Experienced builders recommend purchasing vapor barrier upholstery with a reflective foil layer that does not allow heat to escape. There are the following types with a foil layer listed below:

• polypropylene;
• kraft paper;
• ruberoid;
• membrane;
• foil;
• coating.

This film is mounted with a large overlap (10-15 cm), and the joints are glued with foil tape for construction work.

A wide range of waterproofing products, such as foil-coated kraft paper, building membrane and other products, are available in specialized department stores. Although you can save money and buy a regular plastic film or roofing felt.

How to insulate concrete floors

If you are completely confused in a wide range and do not understand what material to use, then use the advice of experienced builders. For example, with concrete floors it is recommended to use expanded clay.

Special preliminary preparation not required. For convenience, slats from a bar can be attached to the base of the roof. This will make it easier to check the even distribution of expanded clay. Although this condition is advisory in nature.

So, pour expanded clay on the entire surface (thickness - 30 cm). A regular garden rake will help distribute the granules evenly. If the attic will be used in the future and the floor is provided, then the expanded clay is laid according to the level.

If all the backfill is leveled, you need to put the GUI. Durable polyethylene is quite suitable. It is distributed with an overlap of 10-15 cm. Scotch tape is glued to the joints.

If you want to make a floor, then boards are laid on the beams.

This is a fairly cheap and easy-to-perform method that will help you insulate the ceiling in the bath with your own hands. But because of its cheapness, it does not become less effective.

Installation of thermal insulation

To achieve the main task - the accumulation and "saving" of steam, you need to make 2 layers of PIP and 1 more for thermal insulation. Such a measure will make the room warmer and more comfortable.

Experts advise placing layers perpendicularly. This arrangement will increase the strength of the entire structure and help to avoid severe deformation. If you use mineral wool and clay, then the process will take place in several steps:

1. an unedged board (5 cm) is taken and attached to the bottom of the beams;
2. to support the filing, we fix the flooring along all the bases;
3. tongue-and-groove aspen rails are attached to them (taking into account the gap for ventilation);
4. outside the roof we lay vapor barrier material;
5. on top of the laid mixture we distribute mineral wool 15 cm wide;
6. then we lay a film of polypropylene;
7. on top of the resulting structure we put boards, this is the future floor of the attic.

If everything is done correctly, then the result should be a great steam room. All the steam will stay inside for a long time, and the steam room will not cool down for a long time.

dry method of insulation

Specialists Sosnin Yu.P. and Bukharkin E.N. In their book they suggest the following method:

1. we take grooved boards (25 mm) and fasten them to the beams, then we process them with drying oil twice so that they become moisture resistant;
2. we sheathe them, observing the moisture gap - 3 cm;
3. we spread a film on top (polyethylene, roofing felt, and preferably a foil coating with reinforcement);
4. the next layer can be sand or slag (20 cm thick).

If you properly insulate the ceiling in the bath, following the recommendations and observe technological process, then:

• heat loss will be significantly reduced (up to 35%);
• there will be no fungi and pathogenic bacteria on the surfaces of the steam room;
• less wood is required;
• the steam room will serve you longer.

In addition to these positive points, there are others:

• you can do this work with your own hands without large investments;
• choose all the materials that will suit you in terms of price and quality.

And the best part is that you and your loved ones will be able to spend time pleasantly and comfortably in your renovated sauna.

The walls of a bathhouse built of brick or concrete need to be insulated. After all, these materials do not tolerate high humidity and too sharp temperature changes very well. Cobbled and log walls are subject to insulation if their thickness is less than 15 - 20 cm. Further in the article, we will try to figure out how to insulate the bath from the inside, quickly and without straining too much.

Necessary materials

To insulate the bath, we need the following material:

From the tools we will prepare: a hammer, a drill, a hacksaw and a doboynik.

Advice: For sheathing it is worth taking a board of alder or linden. The wood of this breed is resistant to moisture and does not heat up even at very high temperatures.

Styrofoam can not be used to insulate the bath from the inside. With strong heating, these plates begin to release toxic substances harmful to the body.

It is better to use basalt wool, and Penoterm NPP is most suitable as a vapor barrier. Its working, operating temperature reaches a mark of + 150g. The air in the steam room can only warm up to +100 - 120g. Among other things, Penotherm is covered with foil on the outside. This will additionally ensure the safety of heat in the steam room and washing.

We insulate the walls

In order to insulate the walls with high quality, it is imperative to “stuff” the crate. There are two ways to mount the crate - this is the use of wooden slats or the installation of an aluminum structure. On the wooden walls it is fixed with nails, on concrete - with self-tapping screws. The aluminum frame will cost more and be more difficult to assemble, but it will also last longer in high humidity conditions.

Important: The step of the crate is maintained so that the cotton wool can be placed at random, that is, a couple of centimeters closer to each other than the width of the plates.

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Mount the frame under the insulation vertically. This provides effective ventilation"pie" walls. The lower elements of the skin - most often becoming unusable - with this method it is easier to change, since they will be located horizontally.

The technology of warming the bath from the inside is as follows:

• Basalt wool slabs are inserted into the crate.
• The vapor barrier is stuffed. It is fixed with slats about 3 mm thick to ensure ventilation. Stretch "Penoterm" with foil to the room.
• The cladding is installed. The lining is attached to clips or kleimers. The boards are nailed onto nails (we always choose galvanized nails), sinking the latter into the wood with a finisher. Hats should not be left unfilled. Under the influence of hot steam, the metal heats up and you can get burned on the nails on the walls.

Working on the ceiling

The overlap of the bath should also be insulated. Usually this procedure is performed outside. However, if a pitched roof is erected, this may be difficult to achieve. In this scenario, thermal insulation is done from the inside. Sheathing is done in the same manner as wall insulation. The only thing is that the slabs on the floor will have to be additionally fixed with “fungi”. The thickness of the insulation should be at least 20 cm, since much more heat escapes through the ceiling in the steam room than through the walls. The overlap of the vapor barrier at the junction of walls and ceiling is about 20 cm.

Insulation of floors, windows and doors

It will be possible to perfectly insulate the bath from the inside only if close attention is paid, including to the floor. Mineral wool and expanded clay are used for its insulation. The floor itself is made slightly inclined and waterproofed. Water is drained through a pipe into a receiving well. Wool is also used to insulate windows. The door is sheathed with felt around the perimeter. It is not bad to additionally upholster with cotton and canvas. Of course, there should not be any gaps between the boards in the door leaf.

To make the bath really warm and cozy, the heater is installed in its center, usually near the wall separating the steam room and the dressing room.

In fact, the work of warming the bath from the inside is not particularly difficult. The main thing is to choose the right materials and strictly follow the order of their installation.

Video on warming the bath from the inside.:

Source: postroju-dom.ru

Bath insulation from the inside: cheap and safe

Step-by-step instructions for different bath wall materials

Warming from the inside is an inevitable event for most types of baths. It allows you to spend less fuel, faster and better warm up the steam room. Properly made insulation protects the walls of the bath from fungus, decay, prolongs its service life. In this article, we will select inexpensive and safe types of thermal insulation, depending on the material of the walls of the bath, and consider how to install them correctly.

• Insulation of the walls of the bath from the inside: we select a heater;
• Do-it-yourself warming of the bath from the inside: from the ceiling to the floor;
• Do-it-yourself warming of a brick bath from the inside;
• Insulation of a bath from blocks from the inside
• Warming wooden bath from within

Bath insulation from the inside: materials

Different rooms of the bath have different requirements, we will focus on the steam room and washing room, the features of which are high temperature and high humidity. Also, the insulation is selected depending on the material of the walls of the bath.

But, regardless of the material of the walls and the purpose of the room, the insulation should be:

• Non-toxic, so as not to cause poisoning under the influence of high temperature;
• Non-hygroscopic, so as not to absorb moisture;
• Resistant to high temperatures and steam;
• non-combustible;
• Retaining shape even after several years of extreme use;
• Resistant to fungus and mold;
• Selling at a reasonable price.

Bath heaters

insulation	What room is used	Note
Natural materials: rolled jute, felt, reed and sawdust insulation, moss, tow, etc.	Dressing room, rest room.	Natural materials ignite at high temperatures, therefore they are not suitable for steam and washing rooms. But jute and linen materials are the best interventional heaters. chopped bath. There are excellent modern roll insulation from natural materials, but they are very expensive, so they are practically not used for warming a bath.
Mineral heaters.	They can insulate any room in the bath. Most often, plate heaters (mats) that are easy to install are used.	Do not rot, serve up to 30 years, fire resistant, inexpensive. It is with such materials that most Russian baths are insulated.
Polymer materials	FORUMHOUSE masters are not recommended for warming the steam room.	Styrofoam is a wonderful heat insulator, but combustible, and at high temperatures it releases substances harmful to humans. You can not use foam in the steam room. Extruded polystyrene foam or penoplex is considered a safe material (the bath of Russian polar explorers in Antarctica is insulated with it). But the FORUMHOUSE masters do not recommend using this material in the steam room either.
Aluminum foil insulation.	It is used in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations for a particular room.	The principle of operation of such heaters is the effect of a thermos, the reflection of heat from the walls and ceiling due to the foil. Some types of foil insulation are made specifically for steam rooms and other rooms with high temperatures, while others begin to release harmful substances when the temperature rises. Foil in the bath is used as a vapor barrier.

Warming the ceiling of the bath from the inside

The bath is insulated from the inside in this order: ceiling - walls - floor. The main part of the heat in the bath goes through the ceiling, so

We hang a heater of at least 10 cm under the black ceiling. I do not recommend basalt wool, glass wool and polystyrene in the steam room. The insulation can be hung on the lacing. Then foil, a gap along the rails and lining.

Regardless of the material of the walls of the bath, the ceiling is insulated in the same way.

Insulation of the frame bath from the inside

To insulate the frame bath, rolled mineral insulation is most often used.

To insulate the walls of the frame bath from the inside:

• A heater is laid in the interbeam space of the structure;
• The next layer is a vapor barrier (foil);
• ventilation gap;
• Sheathing.

The photographs below show how Kochevnik insulated his frame bath. Insulation - basalt wool.

Do-it-yourself warming of the bath from the inside: step-by-step instruction.

The foil acts as a vapor barrier, so it is important that even the slightest holes and damages are absent in it, and all joints are well glued with high-quality tape. The tape is always sold with foil, and its quality must be checked in the store (glue the tape to the foil and try to tear it off).

Do-it-yourself warming of the bath from the inside: log house

Insulating a chopped and well-caulked bath from the inside will be a tragic mistake. This is not only pointless and destructive for the walls, it contradicts the very idea of ​​​​a chopped bath.

Log cabins for a bath are made for two reasons:

1. To get a classic Russian steam bath, which is heated for a long time and keeps the required level of heat and humidity for a long time. It is the tree that accumulates heat and moisture and gradually “gives it away”. In this case, the bath cannot be sheathed from the inside; you will also have to put up with a large consumption of firewood.
2. For an image. Not a single bath looks as cool as a chopped one. But often you don’t want to waste time and firewood, you want the bathhouse to be heated in an hour, so insulation, vapor barrier and clapboard lining are done. The frame works only as an external frame, the meaning of the material is lost. In this case, it is cheaper and more correct to build a frame bath.

It happens that a person gets a ready-made bath from a log house, and for various reasons it can be cold. Such a bath can be insulated, but only from the outside.

The pie looks like this:

• insulation;
• wind protection;
• vertical crate to create a ventilation gap;
• outer cladding.

And from the inside, you can put foil and sheathe it with clapboard, not forgetting about the ventilation gap.

• We put foil on the beam, fasten it with a construction stapler;
• We glue ALL joints with foil tape;
• We fill vertical slats with a thickness of 1-2 cm;
• We fill the lining horizontally, leaving slots at the top and bottom for air circulation.

If the ceiling of the chopped bath is made of thick boards, it is not necessary to use a heater, but then they pour on the ceiling in a cold attic:

• ash;
• sand;
• expanded clay (it is preferable that the granules are of different sizes);
• clay coating.

Insulation from the inside of a brick bath

Brick is not the most suitable material for building a bath, but if there is a brick factory somewhere nearby, then brick baths begin to grow like mushrooms. Due to the high thermal conductivity of the brick, such a bath needs to be insulated without fail. Warming is carried out only from the inside, and to make the bath look cool from the outside, they make decorative stitching.

Usually the cake of the insulated wall of a brick bath looks like this:

• brickwork;
• waterproofing,
• insulation;
• vapor barrier;
• sheathing.

Waterproofing between brickwork and insulation is optional: if the walls are built correctly and waterproofed from the foundation, they will not dampen. If there is no confidence in the walls, then it is better to do waterproofing.

Insulation on the brick walls of the bath is attached to the frame.

We build a frame on the wall from a 100 × 40 beam with a step in the width of the insulation, lay it with a heater, lay a vapor barrier, sew on 20mm slats and sheathe it with clapboard.

The bathhouse of our user S4sha is laid out in half a brick, but it is perfectly steamed even at -30. Its walls are insulated like this:

• mineral wool;
• vapor barrier (in the steam room - foil);
• ventilation gap;
• lining.

Insulation thickness - 50 mm.

Insulation of a bath from blocks from the inside

For the construction of a bath, durable and moisture-resistant expanded clay concrete blocks are preferred. Warming of such a bath is thought out even at the stage of its construction. The most important thing here is to remove the ice mass of concrete from the heating circuit. There is a technology promoted by our user ZYBY, which allows you to solve this problem by building a frame-wall of boards indented from the walls of the bath. It is suitable for warming all baths with stone walls.

In order to ventilate and dry the space between the frame and the walls, in the walls of the bath, at the top and bottom of the outside, several vents are made. The products are closed for the time while people are steaming in the bath, the rest of the time they are open for drying.

Insulation cake for the steam room and washing room using this technology:

• concrete wall with air;
• insulation on the frame-wall (with an indent from the concrete wall);
• frame-wall;
• foil;
• finishing with the 50th unedged board (aspen, linden or cedar) to get solid wood in a steam room.

With this approach, you do not have to heat the ice walls. And the insulation will dry out between soarings.

But many owners of a block bath insulate it from the inside traditionally:

• concrete wall;
• insulation (attached to the frame);
• foil;
• ventilation gap;
• lining.

Such a bath needs insulation from the outside.

Floor insulation in the bath

Precious bath heat also leaves through the floor, so it also needs to be insulated. For floor insulation in the bath, it is recommended to use expanded clay, as the lightest and most environmentally friendly material.

Expanded clay is poured between the layers of the concrete floor as follows:

• pour the first layer of concrete;
• wait until it is completely frozen;
• expanded clay is poured (layer thickness - 10 cm);
• install reinforced grating.
• pour a layer of concrete;
• make a cement-sand screed.

Summarizing

A good bath is a warm bath. And in order for it to warm up well to the desired temperature, it is necessary to choose the right thermal insulation and insulate all structural elements.

Also in the bath from the inside they insulate:

• Windows, doors and all openings - with natural sealants;
• Outer door - good natural materials.

At FORUMHOUSE, the issues of steam room insulation are analyzed in detail, the insulation of the steam room ceiling is discussed separately. Learn how to properly insulate a log bath from the outside. Read our article about floor insulation in the bath. Check out our user's sauna building guide and find the answer to any question about bath construction. Watch our video on how to build a complete bath complex.

Source: www.forumhouse.ru

We warm the bath with our own hands

External or internal insulation of the bath is a must. This reduces fuel consumption and slows down the process of cooling the air in the premises. If the structure is not insulated, then it will take several times longer to heat the steam room to the desired temperature.

We warm the bath with our own hands

Before the construction of the building, it is necessary to calculate the means and forces for thermal insulation. It is best if the insulation process begins during construction, more precisely, from laying the foundation.

Basic requirements for materials for warming a bath

Cheap solutions (impregnations, septic tanks) will not fulfill the role of good thermal insulation. Of course, protection from moisture is necessary in any case, but this is a separate task. It is necessary to warm the bath rooms separately, using materials specially created for this. Most attention is usually paid to the inside of the washroom and steam room. The selection of insulation and thermal insulation is done with the expectation of a draft building material.

One of the most important requirements for insulation materials is non-toxicity. Because in the bath, under the influence of temperatures, toxic materials can easily cause poisoning. Non-hygroscopicity is also important, the insulation should in no case absorb moisture.

http://kakpravilnosdelat.ru/kak-uteplit-banyu/

When choosing a specific material, you need to rely on the following characteristics:

• resistance to steam and high temperatures;
• good fire-fighting properties;
• environmental friendliness;
• low hygroscopicity;
• the ability to maintain shape for a long period.

Types of heaters for a bath

All heaters presented on the construction markets are divided into three conditional groups:

1. Organic. Natural materials ignite at high temperatures, so they cannot be insulated with a steam room. They are perfect for a dressing room or lounge.
2. Mineral. This is a suitable tool for internal insulation of any part of the bath. Time-tested, mineral slabs cannot cause harm, since most of their composition is cotton wool. For the steam room the best option will become stone wool.

Stone wool meets all the requirements for heaters for a bath, so it is used even in a steam room

Of course, even 50-60 years ago, only natural materials were used, which were brought from nearby forests. This is foam, tow or moss. Today, these are already partly elite types of insulation, they cost serious money due to the need to manually collect them. Many fans of natural materials insulate their buildings with rolled jute felt or tow. Such material can be bought at hardware stores. As for moss, there are conflicting opinions regarding its use. It is said that moss is not an ideal material for insulation, because it provokes the growth of mold or fungi. However, the moss itself does not have such properties, most likely, the fungus is formed due to improper felling of a wooden structure or poor ventilation.

How to work with different types of buildings

The laying procedure and the required amount of work depend on the material from which the bath is built.

Warming of log cabins

When working with a bar or log, you need to take into account the time for shrinkage, which can be 10 cm or more. Plus, gaps form between the crowns of such buildings, and cold air blows in just in them. It is best to insulate a frame made of round timber or an assembly of timber with jute fiber.

Jute fiber is often cut off at the finish, but these edges can be punched with a hammer and caulking

This material does not rot and has excellent thermal conductivity. Jute itself is a very fragile material, so manufacturers are trying to add flax fibers to it. But if there is already loose material available, you can perform classic caulking. So there will be less work, and the building will surely retain more heat.

If it is decided to create a bath from wood, then the insulation is laid during construction. It is better to isolate all the problematic parts of the log house in the process.

The work is performed in the following sequence:

During construction, pieces of jute are placed between logs or timber.

Jute fabric comes in rolls, so laying it is quite convenient.

Insulation of buildings made of brick or foam blocks

If the log cabins are insulated in a primitive way, then the masonry will have to work hard. Yes, and there are more financial investments for work with insulation. Additional thermal insulation is necessary, otherwise a well-heated room will cool down in hours. It is better to work, investing in materials, than to stock up on fuel all the time.

A common and proven method is a hinged ventilated facade. The working process does not take place from the inside, but from the outside of the bath. It is necessary to fix the layers of insulation to the walls, and sheathe them with siding or clapboard on top. In the gap between the layers, an air-filled space is formed, thanks to which condensation will not form on the walls and rotting and dampness will not follow.

The width of the frame for a ventilated facade is made greater than the thickness of the insulation, so an air gap is formed inside, which prevents the formation of condensate

For a brick building, the following trick is often practiced: indoors, a steam room is made of wood. Brick absorbs heat for a very long time, so it is easier to warm a small steam room naturally if you use a small frame.

Enough timber 10x10 and crates. The process of warming such an impromptu steam room inside a large bath is simple:

1. A crate is stuffed onto the beam, then stone wool is fixed.
2. Foil insulation is attached on top of the cotton wool layer.
3. As a finishing layer, lining is most often mounted.

A crate is stuffed onto the base of the timber, stone wool is inserted into it, and then a layer of foil material is attached

You can make it even easier: do not use a beam, but instead immediately fix the insulation on the frame. In this case, you will need an additional layer of waterproofing.

Calculation and selection of materials and tools

We insulate all surfaces of the steam room, washing room and dressing room. And for this you will need:

1. Roll paper (on the ceiling and walls).
2. Beam-rail (5x5, for mounting insulation on the ceiling and walls).
3. Foil.
4. Insulating tape.
5. Self-tapping screws.
6. Aluminum adhesive tape.
7. Insulation, calculated on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwalls, ceilings and floors.

Of the tools you will need:

Do-it-yourself warming of the bath

Any stages of insulation are always carried out according to the golden rule - they start from the ceiling and end with the floors.

Ceiling insulation

Before you start working with the ceiling, you need to understand that in the steam room you need 2 times more material. After all, we are not working on a sauna, but on a Russian bath, where the steam should linger as long as possible.

The ceiling is insulated as tightly as possible, preferably before installing the stove

1. We cover the entire surface of the ceiling with roll paper overlap.
2. We fix the bars on top of the paper, a heater will already lie between them.
3. Cover it all with foil. It will become a normal, safe insulator. But it is necessary to mount the foil without saving. It is important that all connections are closed.

The foil layer reflects heat, so the use of such a material for a bath is necessary

The tape from the kit must be glued carefully, because it will be very difficult to reuse it

On the ceiling, it is better to lay the insulation in two or three layers with overlapping joints

For a frame bath, it is necessary to put insulation on the ceiling and walls, but for a timber and log bath you can do without it. For example, if the bath is made of logs, it is enough to pre-sew up its ceiling with thick boards - at least 6 cm. Mineral wool is most suitable as a heater for the ceiling - you just need to lay it in a layer of at least 15 cm.

Video: insulation and finishing of the ceiling from the inside

Wall insulation

The best solution for wall insulation is a constructor made of materials that can be easily repaired or replaced.

The structure of the bath wall insulation resembles a roofing pie

1. Rails or beams are vertically fixed to the surface of the wall. The edges of the lower part must be marked with pieces of electrical tape. A narrow bar is being used, not a square bar, because the bar will not be distorted by temperature changes. Before attaching to the wall, panels or boards must be treated with specialized impregnations that are designed for bath rooms.
2. The slats will also need foil. They work with it in the same way as when insulating the ceiling. But without this material, the timber will definitely rot, and the insulation will turn out to be hacky. Using foil, you will not need to use vapor barrier films. This material is fastened with a stapler directly to the timber. Then everything is pressed with a clapboard. But it is important to leave a gap or gap between the lining and the thermal insulation. Usually two centimeters is enough.
3. Racks made of thermowood (lining) are mounted on fixed rails. The finishing part is stuffed not vertically, but horizontally. According to the observations of experienced builders, heat loss is much lower.

Lining made of linden looks great and keeps heat well, and when laid horizontally, heat loss is even more reduced

Video: insulation and foil upholstery in a steam room

Floor insulation in the bath

And finally, let's work on the floor. After all, through it usually leaves the room a large number of heated air. Expanded clay is most often used as insulation for floors - it is an inexpensive and reliable insulation that prevents the appearance of mold and condensation.

It is cheaper, of course, to sprinkle everything with slag, but expanded clay is more environmentally friendly and weighs less. When installing wooden floors, the material is placed between the lags. If a concrete floor is poured, then expanded clay is placed between each concrete layer.

Let's analyze the usual cycle of work on the insulation of the concrete floor.

1. First pour the initial layer.
2. Then wait until it is completely solidified.
3. Next, expanded clay is poured. A layer of 10 cm is enough.

Expanded clay filling is made between the layers of the concrete floor

Video: features of the concrete floor device in the bath

In addition to walls, floors and ceilings, they also pay attention to the insulation of doors, windows and window openings. They are processed silicone sealants. It is customary to insulate external doors with natural materials. And it is not customary to save on them, otherwise in a few years, or even for the next season, everything will have to be redone.

Source: legkovmeste.ru

Step-by-step instructions: how to insulate a bath from the inside

Warming is an important stage in the finishing of any private house, while in the bathhouse this operation becomes of key importance. A steam room is a space with special conditions, where extreme temperatures are combined with high humidity. No matter how well the bath is built, if careful thermal insulation was not made at the finishing stage, the sauna will not be able to function correctly, cold will penetrate into the interior, and heat will leave outside. To maintain the necessary temperature indicators, it is necessary to warm it well. In this matter, you can rely on the professionalism and experience of specialists, or you can do the warming of the bath from the inside with your own hands. The article provides step-by-step instructions for thermal insulation of a bath room.

What materials are suitable for internal thermal insulation

Today, there are a lot of high-quality heaters on the market, but not all of them are suitable for bath conditions. For thermal insulation of this room, it is necessary to use materials that meet the following requirements:

1. Non-toxic. In the bath, under the influence of extremely high temperatures, the harmful substances contained in the material are rapidly released, so toxic insulation can cause poisoning.
2. Non-hygroscopic. You should choose a material that does not absorb moisture.

The heater for the bath should be:

• resistant to high temperatures and steam;
• fireproof;
• environmentally friendly;
• durable.

There are several groups of heaters that can be used in the bath:

1. Organic. These are natural materials that can ignite from high temperatures, so they only insulate the rest room and dressing room.
2. Mineral. These materials are suitable for warming the steam room and any other parts of the bath.

According to the requirements above the best heat insulators for the bath are described in the table:

Material name	Main characteristics
Mineral wool	The structure of the insulation consists of randomly arranged fibers. The material is non-toxic, practically does not absorb moisture, has a small weight. Suitable for insulating walls, ceilings and wooden floors of the bath.
Extruded polystyrene foam	The structure is closed cells. It has high strength and resistance to compression. Does not contain harmful components. Can be used to insulate concrete floors.
Expanded clay	Represents the porous granules which are not passing moisture. Very light and durable, no toxic substances in the composition. Used for thermal insulation of the ceiling and floor.

Mineral wool foil plates are well suited for warming the steam room, as in the photo, which work on the principle of a thermos, keeping heat inside the room for a long time. To create an airtight coating, the mats are fastened together with foil tape.

If the insulation is carried out with a material that does not have a foil layer, it must be covered with a vapor barrier film.

When using mineral wool for thermal insulation of the floor, it is necessary to make multi-layer insulation. The first layer is best to put expanded clay, which is not attractive to rodents.

Insulation of the bath must be done not only inside, but also outside the house. About how to properly make external insulation, we described earlier in the article "Thermal insulation of the bath inside and out - technologies and materials." Below we will dwell on how to perform the insulation of the bath with our own hands from the inside. The process consists of several successive stages.

Floor insulation

Works on internal insulation are performed in the following sequence:

1. A drain pipe is supplied to the bath, which is usually installed in the center of the room.
2. A roofing material is laid on a well-packed earth, which will prevent the ingress of moisture from the soil into the insulation cake. The edges of the material should go to the walls to a height of at least 15 cm.
3. Almost the entire space under the bath is covered with a thick layer of expanded clay or slag. For ventilation, 20-25 cm are left between the upper edge of the backfill and the floor beams.
4. On the protruding sections of the foundation, floor beams are installed, pre-treated with an antiseptic composition.
5. From the bottom of the beams, cranial bars are screwed, then a draft floor is laid on them.
6. The entire structure is covered with a vapor-tight film in such a way that both subfloor boards and wooden beams are covered.
7. Mineral wool slabs are laid on the film between the beams or granulated expanded clay is poured.
8. From above, the heat insulator is also covered with a film.
9. Logs are mounted across the beams, then they are laid on them wood flooring. A round hole is made in the place of the drain in the boards to drain the water.
10. Laths are nailed on top of the boards, which will serve as a crate for mounting a waterproof floor.
11. Insulation is laid between the slats of the frame, the foil layer should look up. Between themselves, the plates are connected using foil tape. To insulate the pipe, it is also wrapped in heat-insulating material.
12. A fine wooden floor is laid over the insulation.

Wall insulation

log bath

Bath wall insulation

The tree has a low thermal conductivity, and the log walls themselves perfectly retain heat inside the log house, provided that the caulking of the interventional joints is of high quality. Therefore, it is not required to make a multi-layer wall cake; to eliminate heat loss, it is enough to lay one layer of insulation with a thickness of 50-80 mm.

Wall insulation is done as follows:

1. Basalt mineral wool slabs are laid directly on the wall and fixed with mushroom fasteners, the foil layer should be facing the room. Since the log wall is uneven, natural ventilation gaps are formed between the insulation and the wood, which will prevent condensation from accumulating.
2. A wooden crate is mounted on top of the mineral wool.
3. The wall is sheathed with clapboard 10 mm thick, which is attached to the laths of the crate.

Baths from a bar

Thermal insulation of the walls of the bath from a bar

A log cabin, as well as a log cabin, is preliminarily caulked, and then additional insulation is carried out. The walls of the timber are even and it is much easier to fix the insulation on them.

Work sequence:

1. A frame of wooden slats is mounted on the wall, which are installed at a distance of 60 cm from each other.
2. Mineral wool mats are laid between the lathing bars.
3. The entire structure is completely covered with rolled foil material, which is attached to the frame rails. The joints between the canvases are glued with foil tape.
4. A counter-lattice is made, the slats are nailed to the bars of the frame. This creates an air gap between the insulation material and the finish.
5. The lining is installed.

How to properly insulate a door

door insulation technology

Large heat losses occur through door slots, so you must definitely take care of the thermal insulation of a wooden or iron door leading to the bath.

As a heater, you can use felt, basalt wool, foil insulation. There are several ways to insulate a door, below we will give the most common:

1. Along the perimeter of the door, a frame of 15x20 mm rails is mounted, which should recede from the edge of the door leaf by 10 cm.
2. A sheet of hardboard is laid inside the frame and attached with a stapler.
3. Felt or other material is pulled on top of the frame and fixed with nails, which should be 5 cm larger than the frame itself.

Ceiling insulation

Thermal insulation of the ceiling in a bath without an attic is performed from the inside, if there is an attic, it can be insulated both inside and outside the room. Don't forget to insulate the chimney too. If it is made of a sandwich pipe, inside which an insulating layer is provided, such thermal insulation will be quite enough.

If the chimney is made from one pipe, it must be wrapped with basalt insulation, and a larger diameter pipe must be put on top.

Insulation of the ceiling structure can be done in three ways.

false ceiling

The thermal insulation of such a ceiling is very similar to the insulation of walls. The beams of the attic floor act as a frame for the hemming flow.

1. From the side of the attic, a layer of waterproofing is laid on the beams, and then boards are laid.
2. Insulation boards are tightly laid between the beams from the inside of the bath room.
3. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film or foil material, which is attached to the beams themselves.
4. Sheathe the ceiling with clapboard.

panel ceiling

Such a ceiling consists of special panels, on the inside of which there is already a layer of insulation and vapor barrier. Mineral wool 10 cm thick is usually used.

Ceiling boards are assembled at the bottom, and then, ready-made, rise up. However, the panels are quite heavy, and it is quite difficult to lift such a structure yourself. Therefore, they are usually lifted piece by piece and mounted at a height.

After installing and fixing the panels, gaskets of insulating material are laid between them and the main ceiling.

Decking ceiling

This ceiling is distinguished by the absence of floor beams. It consists of boards 50 mm thick, which are placed directly on the walls of the bath or on bars nailed around the perimeter of the room at a distance of 10-12 cm below the ceiling.

Thermal insulation in this way is suitable for small rooms no wider than 2.5 m. In this case, only thin insulation with a thickness of not more than 5 mm can be used.

The following insulation scheme is used:

1. The boards are covered with a vapor barrier film.
2. A heater is placed on top.
3. Then comes the waterproofing layer.
4. Everything is covered with plywood sheets or boards.

Using the instructions for the internal insulation of the bath, you can independently make the thermal insulation of not only new, but also old buildings. But before insulating the old building, it is necessary to carefully prepare the walls, close up cracks and cracks, treat the tree with an antiseptic, and only after that proceed with thermal insulation.

If you decide to remake a change house or trailer for a bath, then their insulation can also be carried out according to the above scheme.

The company "Master Srubov" has been professionally doing decoration and thermal insulation for many years. wooden houses in Moscow and the region. If you want your bathhouse to please you with warmth and comfort, to serve you as a duty, to keep the optimum temperature in the steam room, we are ready to help you with this.

You can find our coordinates in the "Contacts" section.

Calculate the cost of painting and insulating your home right now

Today, before starting the construction of a bath complex, each owner must ask himself how to insulate the bath from the inside. The construction market offers dozens of options. The main thing is not to get confused and choose such a heater for the bath so that it meets the building requirements.

Principles for choosing a heater

When buying material, you should pay attention to the most important features of an effective product:

1. environmental friendliness;
2. maximum degree of moisture resistance;
3. resistance to harmful microorganisms;
4. the ability not to deform during long-term operation;
5. thermal conductivity index: the higher it is, the better;
6. compatibility with building materials;
7. minimum value of moisture absorption;
8. compliance with fire safety requirements, standards of the sanitary and epidemiological station;
9. ability not to accumulate condensate;
10. ease of installation.

Varieties of insulation materials

Before you run around the shops and grab anything, you should understand the range of materials offered.

Bath heaters are organic and inorganic.

organic materials

This includes a group of heaters that are made from natural raw materials:

• sheep wool or felt;
• jute;
• tow;
• heat-insulating materials from peat, reeds and wood shavings.

The main advantage of natural materials is environmental friendliness.

But warming the bath from the inside with their help has a number of disadvantages:

1. Natural thermal insulation in the interior decoration of the sauna is a laborious and time-consuming process.
2. Natural heaters are short-lived, require regular updating.
3. Linen, moss, felt, tow - a favorable environment for the life and reproduction of insects, rodents and other harmful microorganisms.
4. They are suitable for dressing rooms, rest rooms, but are not suitable for thermal insulation inside hot rooms, even after additional treatment with fire retardants.
5. Buying natural materials significantly "hit the wallet."

Inorganic or synthetic materials

There is no need to talk about absolute environmental friendliness here. Unlike natural ones, they will last for decades and provide better thermal insulation. Synthetic insulation for a bath is easy to install and resistant to high humidity and hot air.

Inorganic thermal insulation materials are divided into several types:

1.Polymer insulation

The group of these materials is foam plastic, foam plastic, honeycomb plastic insulation.

Styrofoam is easy to use to insulate the sauna ceiling. It does not absorb moisture, practical and easy to handle.

Foam glass, which embodies the best properties of foam plastic and stone wool, has become a novelty in the construction industry. The material lends itself to carving with a knife and is perfectly attached to the surface.

Despite the advantages, foam is not recommended for insulating the ceiling inside the sauna. On the one hand, it is considered a fire hazard. On the other hand, with an increase in air temperature, the foam plastic is deformed and emits an unpleasant odor, vapors of a toxic substance - phenol.

If you still decide to use foam, then it is better to insulate the walls of the dressing room with it from the outside.

2.Basalt insulation for a bath

Made from mountain parody, the material is used in last years demand. It has a number of advantages:

• Not subject to combustion;
• Resistant to humid air;
• Does not deform under the influence of temperatures;
• Excellent sound and heat insulation;
• Service life up to 30 years;
• It does not cause difficulties in the process of installation of the finish.

As for the shortcomings, with the exception of the cost of the material, there are none.

3.Mineral wool

The main difference between the production technology of mineral wool and the production of insulation from basalt fibers is the use of inexpensive industrial waste.

This has a positive effect on the price of the material, but negatively on the mechanical strength of the insulation. Therefore, during the installation process, be extremely careful.

Along with the disadvantages, mineral wool is not without advantages:

• Reliable thermal insulation;
• Not afraid of moisture;
• High degree of sound insulation.

4.Glass wool

Warming a glass wool bath will cost no more than its counterparts. And according to certain criteria, it is not inferior to other materials: it keeps heat well and is easy to install.

A significant disadvantage of glass wool is the instability to hot air.

5. Foil insulation

To insulate the ceiling of the sauna, it is recommended to use materials that reflect light. Mirror heaters have become widespread. Due to the special aluminum coating, they reflect and do not let heat through the ceiling. Foil insulation for a bath is recommended to be used in combination with classic materials.

Sauna insulation

Having decided on the choice of one or two heat-insulating materials, proceed directly to work. Warming the bath from the inside with your own hands is a difficult process that requires skills in the field of construction. If you are confident in your abilities, then go for it. Otherwise, it is better to resort to the help of Marisrub specialists.

It should be noted that the process of thermal insulation of a wooden or brick sauna is almost the same. Therefore, it is not worth focusing on an insignificant difference.

Before you start insulating the walls, ceiling and floor, it will be right to take care of the vapor barrier. Even if you have chosen a moisture-resistant insulation, during operation, condensate will gradually begin to penetrate the inner layers of the heat-insulating material and have destructive effects.

To isolate the insulation from moisture, aluminum foil is used. The solidity of the vapor barrier is achieved by metallized adhesive tape, which is used to glue the joints of foil sheets.

We warm the floors

It is correct to start warming the sauna not from the ceiling or walls, but from the floor. In the bath, it is continuous or leaking. Given that the designs differ from each other, the insulation of each type occurs in different ways.

It is better to use mineral wool. It is laid on a draft floor of boards and covered with a layer of waterproofing. The last step is pouring the floor.

When installing leaking floors, they dig a pit 50 cm deep and fill it with 5 cm of sand. After careful tamping, a 20-cm layer of insulation is laid - foam, which is poured cement mortar with styrofoam chips.

After drying, the concrete is covered with a layer of waterproofing, while not forgetting about the walls.

Then again they are poured with cement with vermiculite, a reinforcing mesh is spread and covered with a layer of concrete with fine gravel. On the this stage work make a slope in the direction where the water flow will be.

The work is completed by laying the finishing floor on the posts.

We insulate the walls

Warming the walls of the bath from the inside occurs in stages:

1. Using wooden slats or timber, we apply a crate to the surface of the walls. The gap between the rails must be made smaller than the width of the heat-insulating material.

This is done in order for the insulation to fill the resulting spaces and prevent the formation of bridges for cold air. As a heater, it is recommended to use mineral wool or basalt fiber slabs.

2. After laying the heat insulator, cover it with any vapor barrier with foil. In this case, the reflective side of the aluminum surface is located inside the sauna.

The vapor barrier is placed between the rails, and fixed to them.

Thermal insulation of the walls of the steam room is ready! By the same principle, other rooms of the sauna are insulated. Instead of foil for vapor barrier, thick kraft paper for wrapping is suitable.

When insulating buildings made of bricks or blocks, it is advised to increase the thickness of the basalt insulation so as not to lose heat.

We insulate the ceiling

Thermal insulation of the ceiling occurs by analogy with the principle of wall insulation.

According to the laws of physics, the closer to the ceiling, the hotter the air will be. Therefore, fire-resistant insulation is chosen for the ceiling. Mineral wool is perfect.

If there is an attic in the bath, then a layer of vapor barrier is made above the insulation - an aluminum film.

Insulation is placed under, above or between the rafters. If you are looking for an easy way, then lay the insulation in a continuous layer between the rafters.

Finally, cover the heat-insulating material with a layer of waterproofing. At the same time, do not forget about the air gap with a size of 20 mm. This is done taking into account the increase in insulation by a third of the width under the influence of moist air.

In the absence of an attic in the bath, expanded clay is often used as a heater for the ceiling. A layer of heat insulator of 25 cm is poured onto a layer of vapor barrier.

The construction market offers heat-insulating panels for warming the bath room. The main advantage of the material is the possibility of refusing waterproofing, minus - they require a reliable vapor barrier layer.

Properly executed interior decoration of the bath guarantees not only a pleasant stay in the company of friends, but also safety. So come to choose building materials and doing the job with the utmost responsibility.