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How to sheathe a bath clapboard with clasps. We sheathe the bath with a wooden clapboard from the inside. Self-finishing clapboard inside the bath. Video

ordinary log walls? This is interesting! A real Russian banya, which from time immemorial has been famous for its steam in Russia, is a very humid steam room and a bare log house without any additional decoration. Why is that? The whole technology is simple: in order for the steam to last for a long time, the walls must be massive, heat-intensive and hygroscopic. First, the log house absorbs moisture well, and then it gradually and evenly gives it back. During bathing procedures in such a bath, one could even hear hissing - these are logs that were covered with drops of water from condensed steam and began to absorb water into their pores. And the thicker the log house was, the more luxurious the Russian bathhouse itself was. It is not surprising that the pairs in the paintings of eminent artists always look so massive!

But this design also has significant disadvantages: it will take a lot of firewood to warm up the wet mass of wood, and it will take at least four hours to heat the bath itself. Plus, logs, of course, will not last long - but even a hundred years ago they were considered the cheapest and most affordable. building material, and therefore it was simply not a pity. Unfortunately, the situation is different today.

But in a modern bath you can no longer do without finishing. Its main task is to significantly reduce the consumption of heat energy and the heating time itself to an hour or half an hour. And for this, the mass of wood in the steam room must be reduced - up to 1 cm of lining, under which foil and insulation are placed. It is easy to heat such a steam room, it takes a little firewood. But, of course, there are also disadvantages: the room cools down quickly, fuel has to be thrown all the time, and the regime of a real Russian bath is not easily achieved. After all, steam is no longer accumulated by walls - it has to be created using expensive furnaces or steam generators, make sure that it is supplied often and regularly, and the process itself must be vigilantly controlled.

We choose lining: with what lock and what length?

A good, high-quality lining helps the walls of the bath to "breathe", prevents the appearance of condensate and fungus, and regulates the humidity in the bath in a peculiar way. The main requirements for these materials are the requirements of environmental safety. It is worth clarifying that once the entire lining was made “in sheet pile” and “in a quarter”, but the slats often shifted during operation, and the density of the joints was violated. That is why today almost all wall paneling on the market is made with tongue/groove profiles.

A little secret for those who like to save money: a lining up to 1.5 meters long in warehouses is much cheaper than one that is more than 2 meters long. And it’s not difficult to figure out how to sheathe a bath with a lining of this length. You just need to make a rail in the middle. But the benefits will be quite tangible.

What is the best way to mount the lining: vertically or horizontally?

There is such an opinion among experienced attendants: with a vertical arrangement of the lining, the temperature of the boards below and above is different, which cannot but affect their durability. In a lining nailed in a horizontal position, the shrinkage and broadening is noticeably much less then. Also, the horizontal lining of the bath is done in order to visually increase the length of the wall of a small steam room. Here are more advantages of horizontal fastening of the lining:

If the floor darkens, it will not be difficult to replace the lining near it.
Water cannot get into the joint of the boards - and therefore the lining dries better and lasts longer.
The air behind such a lining circulates much better - all because it needs a vertical frame, and the gap under it also ends up being vertical.
Another vertical frame for insulation is an excellent barrier for mice.
Installation of horizontal lining is much easier than vertical.

An important point: if the lining is mounted horizontally, then the groove should be directed down.

But vertical lining is indispensable for those baths that work mainly in sauna mode - with dry air and high temperatures. There is practically no water, and therefore the wood will not darken, and water will not get into the joints of the boards due to the lack of splashes themselves. And so that the air under the lining circulates well, holes are drilled for this - that's the whole solution to the problem.

So which is better to sheathe: across or along? Proceed from whether you really have a Russian bath, or if you like the sauna regime, and "banya" is just a name.

Finishing of the washing room: wood or PVC?

In the washing room, the air temperature is, of course, lower than in the steam room, but the humidity is much higher. That is why ordinary lining is rarely used in it as a finishing material - only if a special hood is installed on the ceiling. And usually it is larch resistant to moisture. So, use the usual wooden lining inside washing department baths are possible - if you think carefully about how to process it. This is necessary so that mold does not multiply, black spots and insects do not appear. Basically, bath attendants today use a colorless water-based antifungal agent for these purposes.

And here plastic pvc lining, effectively imitating wood, fits perfectly. It is easy to attach, easy to wash and it lasts a long time. Why not use the same in the steam room? No plastic is designed for those extreme temperatures that occur in it, but in the washing room it does not deform and does not emit any harmful volatile substances into the air.

Still plastic lining is much cheaper than wood. It is only important to make a vapor barrier and ventilation gaps in the washing room: a crate is attached, on top of it - a plastic film, then - slats and there is already lining on them

Is it possible to finish a bath that settles?

Of course, many owners of new baths are not at all satisfied with the fact that they have to wait more than one month from the construction of walls to their finishing. But how to sheathe such a bath with a clapboard, if the log house then settles at least 5 centimeters, and the clapboard, and even more so the tile, will not survive the deformation. But, in extreme situations, when for some reason it is impossible to wait, it is still possible to perform a high-quality finish: if you use special sliding guides for lining. In this case, the bottom is fixed rigidly, and all other fasteners are firmly fixed on the walls and slide down a little along the same guide.

This floating frame can be made using a variety of technologies, but this method has proven itself best: we make a slot in the width of the bar, and the same bar holds the frame. At the same time, the wall freely sits along the horizon, and this process does not harm the finish. Another point: you need to take a large self-tapping screw for lining, the ideal option is a galvanized nail.

In this case, both the guides and the sheathing are fixed such that they would not reach the ceiling by the estimated amount of precipitation. And the ceiling sheathing needs to be fixed only to the ceiling itself, and not to the walls. And so that later, after the log shrinks, there are no gaps between the two skins, the ceiling must be sheathed flush with the top of the wall sheathing, and ceiling plinth nail only to the ceiling.

Oddly enough, tiles can also be laid on the sitting walls - if you first install moisture-resistant cardboard on them with the same sliding guides.

The most difficult option for finishing a bath is if by itself it is with walls that are icy in winter. In this case, experienced builders do this: inside the box they make an internal insulated frame, indented from the walls. The best finish in this case is a lime slab, which will keep all the heat in the steam room.

The very process of lining the bath with clapboard is short and simple, but then the steam room looks, of course, just amazing.

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Bath is a very ancient and beloved by our people healing procedure. It perfectly improves the tone of the body, promotes the removal of toxins, hardens, helps to get rid of many diseases. But the maximum healing effect can be achieved with the right decision on which clapboard to sheathe the bath, if your bath room is made in accordance with all the rules and from natural materials.

What clapboard to sheathe a bath inside

by the most the best options for interior decoration of a sauna or a bath, it is customary to consider a lining made of oak, linden or aspen. The use of lining from these materials will give excellent heat and sound insulation properties, these types of wood do not emit resin when heated, contribute to the creation of a special microclimate in the steam room, and release the healing substances themselves. Before you decide which clapboard to sheathe the bath, you need to decide on the choice of material.

The lining is attached to the walls and ceiling in the bath, provided that they are wooden and even, and if you built a brick bath, then you need to make a special crate of slats for the lining. After you have fixed the lining, you should do the impregnation. To process the lining in the bath, you can use varnish and special eco-friendly antiseptics - this is necessary to protect the wood from moisture. What clapboard to sheathe a bath, how to process it, how to care for it - knowing the answers to these questions will help you significantly extend its service life.

In order for your sauna or bath finish to last for a long time, you need to choose the right one of the options for attaching the lining and make it treated with protective equipment. Most often, lining in a bath or sauna is mounted vertically. With this method of fastening, water flows freely along the walls and does not linger in the grooves of the rails, which often happens if the lining is fixed horizontally.
When decorating a bath room, materials can be combined. For example, forty centimeters (lower level) from the floor level can be made with ceramic tiles, and the walls above can be made from lining.

The modern market offers a very large selection of wood lining, but you should follow the rules when choosing it:

— For interior decoration, it is necessary to use a lining, the cut of which is along the growth of the tree.
— The edges of the surface must be free of cracks.
- The tub must be free of stains and knots.
- In the presence of such defects, the lining may break during fastening.

For the interior decoration of the bath, it is possible to use various tree species. Let's get acquainted with those that are used for this purpose most often:
Using alder to finish the bath
Black alder is an excellent raw material for producing lining according to European standards. She has excellent medicinal properties. It is often used in construction and interior decoration baths or saunas. The healing properties of this wood are associated with the presence of special tannins in it, which have a number of valuable qualities:
- When heated, these substances have an anti-inflammatory and hemostatic effect.
- They have disinfectant and astringent properties.
- Help with colds, gout and rheumatism.
For interior decoration, it is better to use eurolining, which is made from material harvested in autumn or winter. Such lining enhances the healing properties. It is believed that alder is one of the best materials for interior decoration.

Cedar lining

Cedar is recognized as a valuable material, which, in addition to high quality, has a very beautiful texture. There are cedar species that at high temperatures acquire a pink hue and release cedar resin. In addition to a pleasant aroma, cedar also has antiseptic properties.

Aspen lining

It is often said that aspen is a dead tree, but when choosing aspen lining, it should be remembered that it is more often exposed to wood diseases than other materials. In the absence of a special coating with a protective liquid, such lining will darken over time. It is a soft material that is easy to work with, while being odorless and having a beautiful texture.

Linden for lining

Linden has many wonderful properties. It perfectly holds the temperature and can be considered the best material for interior decoration of the bath. There is no resin in the lime lining. This material is light, rarely has a shade of coffee.

From time immemorial, not only the Slavs, but also the Finnish, Ugric and even nomadic tribes have made a considerable contribution to the creation, which eventually began to be called "Russian bath". In those days, the technology was very simple: a massive frame was used, which did not have any heaters inside. In our technological world, this option is not very practical, since it will take a significant amount of firewood and a lot of time to heat the bath. Once upon a time, wood was the cheapest material - now it is no longer so. A modern bath is easier to sheathe. There is enough information and photos for this. How to make it inexpensive and beautiful? This will be discussed further.

Quick Guide to Material Selection

What lining for the bath to use and is it needed at all? An important question for owners of steam rooms. Let's first understand what functions it performs. The main task of the sheathing is to reduce the consumption of heat energy and reduce the burning time from 4 to 1-1.5 hours. Although, perhaps, this does not apply to baths, competently built according to old technologies - from a single bar. In this case, no heaters are required. However, the construction costs will be completely different.

So, when choosing a material, first of all, you need to think about the properties that it should have. Of course, it must be non-flammable, vapor-resistant and, of course, harmless to your health. Not recommended for upholstery internal walls baths are unnatural materials.

The favorite material for interior decoration is lining, a little less often they prefer a block house that is spectacular in its appearance, or only magnelite that is developing on the market. What do you prefer anyway? Let's consider all the options in more detail.

Clapboard lining

Lining among builders is associated with beauty, practicality and reasonable cost. High Quality lining partially regulates the humidity in the steam room, prevents the appearance of fungal mold and condensation, and allows the walls to "breathe".

Advice. There is a little secret when choosing a lining, which can significantly reduce the cost of its purchase. Very often, on the building materials market, lining up to 1.5 m long is much cheaper than from 2 m and above. And sheathing a bath with a material of this length is quite simple - you just need to make a rail in the middle.

Most often, lining is preferable for finishing the interior of the bath, as it has a number of undoubted advantages:

Saves heat. Lining significantly reduces heat leakage, respectively, and the amount of firewood used (electricity, gas).
It gives the room an aesthetic appearance, hiding communications and uneven finishes.
Prevents the formation of dampness.
Long serves.

You should seriously approach the choice of wood for lining, because the level of reliability of the material and the degree of financial costs depend on it.

Linden- ideal for a steam room. Allocated by her essential oils have a disinfecting, anti-inflammatory effect. It enhances perspiration without burning the skin and respiratory tract due to low thermal conductivity.
A less financially costly alternative to linden will be aspen. It draws out diseases from the body, is not subject to decay after prolonged contact with water. This tree is very soft, it is cut without problems.
The best option for shower walls will be larch. It has a positive effect on well-being, increases resistance to infections. And floors from this tree will be exclusively strong and reliable. Even various small rodents and a bug will not be afraid of them.
The leader in strength among tree species is undoubtedly white stock. It is even stronger than oak and will only get stronger with time. Acacia is not subject to deformation and decay. Products made from this wood will be very durable and wear-resistant, so acacia is perfect for finishing doors and floors in a steam room.

Choosing a block house

Block house for a bath - the best combination of price and quality. This material is so close in its external characteristics to a log house that it is almost impossible to distinguish a bath sheathed with a block house from a log house. This material undergoes special drying, so it is not afraid of deformation or cracks. But periodic (once every few years) bactericidal treatment is still desirable.

There is a classification of a block house according to the degree of quality:

Class "C" - low quality material, processed only superficially. Various kinds of deformations are allowed (cracks, bark remnants, etc.);
Class "B" - medium quality block house, allowing only a limited amount of deformation (small cracks, knots up to 3 cm, etc.);
Class "A" - perfectly processed material, without any irregularities (with the exception of small knots - up to 3 cm);
"Extra" class - the highest level of material quality with perfect surface finish.

For the interior decoration of the bath, a block house of the last two classes is recommended. As a material for the block house, hardwood and softwood are used, with the exception of spruce and pine (since they have high thermal conductivity and can cause burns when touched).

Advice. In no case should you use chipboard and fiberboard in a steam room, since they release toxins when heated.

MAGELAN

A self-confident newcomer to the building materials market is a glass-magnesium sheet. It is made from fine wood shavings, magnesium and other components reinforced with fiberglass mesh. It's acceptable, but not the best. best material for interior decoration. However, certain advantages of this material cannot be denied:

Immune to temperature changes and burning.
Does not rot and is immune to moisture
Easy to mount.

We have introduced you in this article to possible options decoration of the interior of the bath, ranging from natural wood to modern materials. Now, knowing about the advantages of certain materials, it will be easier for you to make a choice depending on your wishes and financial capabilities.

What not to sheathe a bath: video

How to sheathe a bath: photo

Wood is a material that has long been used for facing baths and saunas. It is there that the tree reveals its properties in the best way - the ability to create a microclimate and perfectly retain heat.

In truth, there is simply no alternative to wood for use in humid and hot environments. Accordingly, it is better to sheathe the bath from the inside wooden clapboard. Below is the technology for the phased lining of the bath with clapboard inside.

Finishing the lining of a bath or sauna has its own characteristics, which must be taken into account even at the stage of selecting wood.

When choosing lining for facing the bath, you need to consider:

high temperature;
temperature fluctuations (differences);
humidity level;
budget.

What lining to choose for a bath

Selection criteria are determined by the characteristics and properties of lumber:

1. Board type

For finishing with a pair of wooden clapboard, it is better to give preference to eurolining.

Firstly, because it has a large groove-tooth system (the length of the ridge reaches 8 mm).

Secondly, because it is guaranteed to have compensation slots on the back of the lamella, which contributes to the ventilation of the coating and prevents possible cracking of the lamella.

Thirdly, because the lining is already pre-treated with wood protection products that can be used in the bath.

2. Variety of lining

For a steam room, only the first or highest (elite) grade of wood is suitable in which there are no knots, wormholes, etc. Please note that even live knots can gradually fall out under the influence of temperature changes.

3. Type of wood

To understand which lining for a bath is better, you need to know the characteristics of each breed. We will not review all the breeds available on the market, but will focus on those recommended by professionals.

Finishing clapboard baths can be made of hardwood and coniferous wood. The choice depends on the purpose of the bath room: steam room, dressing room, washing room, shower room, as well as on the properties of the wood itself.

The most popular material for a steam room in a bath or sauna is hardwood lining. Their common advantage is that the wood does not heat up in the sauna, and cannot cause burns when touched, and is also resistant to moisture.

Lining linden for a bath

The most popular for saunas and baths is linden lining. The advantages of this wood are the ability to create a special microclimate. From a utilitarian point of view, the strength of the rock, resistance to drying out, and also beautiful colour and structure of wood. Linden is considered an energy donor.

Aspen lining for a bath

The second most popular place for baths is occupied by aspen lining. Aspen wood is beautiful, soft and easy to work with. The peculiarity of the breed is that over time, aspen lining becomes only stronger.

Aspen is also good because it provides easy care for lining in the steam room. It is enough to lightly sand it when it starts to darken. And popular belief says that aspen draws negative energy from a person.

Lining from an alder for a bath

In third place was an alder lining. From a medical point of view, alder is good because it contains tannins. The wood of this breed is hygroscopic, has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity. However, the high cost hinders its ubiquitous distribution.

Note. Lining made of linden, aspen, alder is usually sold in short pieces. Commercial length up to 3 m. This should be taken into account when planning the finishing of the bath and making the calculation of the material.

Oak lining for a bath

The most expensive and difficult to process material is oak lining for a bath. But it does not rot, does not lose its properties and can be installed in a sauna without the slightest additional processing. Unfortunately, all this is not available to everyone due to the high cost of oak lining.

A similar situation is with ash clapboard - a very expensive and rare lumber for bath sheathing.

A common disadvantage of hardwood lining is that it loses color over time and needs to be protected.

Conifers are rarely used in the steam room. Because the resin that the lining of coniferous species (pine, spruce) emits makes it practically unsuitable for use in a steam room. They are more suitable for washing and dressing rooms. This is facilitated by indicators such as resistance to moisture and low price. In addition, coniferous lining is easier to process, has a beautiful structure and a rich palette of shades, allows you to veneer rounded shapes and does not need additional processing (with the exception of deresining). Often a pleasant coniferous aroma also becomes an argument in favor of lining from needles.

Do-it-yourself sheathing of a bath with clapboard inside

Ways of fastening lining

The first step is to choose a method of fastening the lining. There is no unambiguous answer on how to properly fix the lining in the bath, horizontally or vertically (along or across). Each master defends his point of view. But summarizing their statements and user reviews, we can draw conclusions regarding the ways of laying the lining.

Laying lining along has become more widespread due to the relative simplicity, convenience and high speed of work, and due to this, the lower cost of installation. Moisture (condensate) easily flows down the vertically arranged lamellas. But, by the way, it also easily rises up the microcapillaries that make up the wood. With this fastening, the tongue-and-groove system is more protected from water ingress.

The vertical fastening of the lining allows more heat to be accumulated inside the steam room, again, because the horizontal fastening of the crate timber interferes with the free movement of air. Experts note that vertical cladding is justified for saunas with their dry steam regime.

Laying the lining across has advantages in view of the fact that the board is fastened with a spike up, which means that water ingress is also unlikely, as with vertical. With horizontal fastening of the lining, a vertical frame (crate) is equipped, which contributes to natural circulation air between the panels and the wall.

Another argument in favor of the horizontal laying of the lining in the bath (steam room) is the ease of replacing the boards below. The fact is that the floor in the bath is not just a wet place, but a wet place. Naturally, the lower boards are subject to more rapid decay than the upper ones. Replacing several bottom boards is easier than cutting off the bottom of all vertical ones. In addition, shrinkage from constant temperature changes is more noticeable on a vertical mount. The horizontal method of fastening the lining is better for those who have a classic wet Russian bath.

Based on the foregoing, everyone can decide for himself how to fix the lining in the bath - vertically or horizontally.

Finishing the sauna with clapboard provides for the device of the crate. This is due to the fact that the presence of the crate makes it possible to insulate the sauna.

If there is no such need, then air circulates freely between the frame, condensate drains, the likelihood of rotting of the lining, the appearance of fungus and mold on the walls is reduced.

The crate for the lining for the bath is made only from a bar, which is covered with a primer. The use of galvanized profiles for drywall is unacceptable.

The crate in the bath makes it possible to organize the wiring in the steam room. For example, under the lamps.

Note. To protect against moisture, the wires are laid in a metal corrugation.

The internal insulation of the bath consists of several layers. Insulation in such a wet room needs special fastening.

To begin with, waterproofing is laid on the wall. It can be nailed to the wall or fixed with battens.

Cotton wool is placed between the bars of the crate. By the way, cut with an overlap of 10 mm. cotton wool will tightly settle between the frame beam and will be securely fixed in them. A foil vapor barrier film is laid on top of the cotton wool, which reflects heat. The vapor barrier is fixed with a stapler to the beams of the crate.

The film is overlapped and must be glued with aluminum tape. Next, narrow slats are stuffed, the so-called counter-rail. Boards up to 20 mm thick are used for the countertop. The purpose of the countertop is to provide a ventilation gap between the lining and the vapor barrier.

A simpler option is to use foil-coated basalt wool, which is laid with foil to the lining (also with a gap).

An important condition for full functioning is ventilation in the bath.

Therefore, when installing the crate and laying the insulation, do not forget to mark a place for ventilation holes.

It is preferable to use an aluminum corrugation with a diameter of 100 mm as an air duct. We remind you that for effective ventilation in the bath you need to place one hole under the ceiling, and the second at a height of 150-300 mm from the floor. Preferably next to the stove.

Note. Ventilation openings should be placed in accessible places in order to be able to regulate the flow of air.

Only non-combustible heat-insulating material is used in the sauna. That is why the use of foam is excluded. It is better to give preference to basalt wool.

Installation of lining in the steam room

Fastening the lining in the bath is done exclusively by a hidden method. Experts attribute this to three factors:

Firstly, the hardware, twisted through, heats up and there is a risk of getting unpleasant sensations while touching the attachment point.

Secondly, rough hardware can rust and ruin the lining surface.

Thirdly, such a mount looks somewhat primitive and affects appearance premises.

Hidden fastening methods include the use of nails, clamps or self-tapping screws. Regarding self-tapping screws, it should be noted additionally that the self-tapping screw can be twisted from the front side of the board, however, it must be closed with a wooden plug.

This method is quite laborious, so users are advised to fix the wooden lining with their own hands using nails and kleimers.

How to sheathe the ceiling in the bath clapboard

Finishing the steam room, as well as other rooms of the bath, starts from the ceiling. This is due to the fact that large thermal gaps are left on the ceiling, and the wall lamellas must rest against the ceiling.

Installation of wooden lining on the ceiling begins from the side of the entrance and is carried out only on nails or kleimer. And the point here is not even in the visual effect, but in the fact that the finishing nail is not able to withstand the weight of the ceiling from the lining.

The boards that are nailed last are difficult to “plant” on the kleimer or drive a nail into the groove. In this case, he uses a finishing (hidden) nail that does not have a hat. In order not to damage the front surface of the lining, the nail should be finished with a finisher. And the installation site of the nail is cleaned with sandpaper to avoid the appearance of roughness and, as a result, a splinter.

It is important that the ends of the lining are located at a distance of 40-50 mm from the wall of the bath. This is due to the fact that under the ceiling there is a higher temperature and the lamellas “play” more. And also with the need to leave a ventilation gap for air circulation through the wall.

How to sheathe the walls in the bath clapboard

Wall decoration with clapboard starts from the corner of the room (steam room, sauna) and is implemented similarly to the installation of clapboard on the ceiling.

When installing, it should be noted that water can rise through the wood to a height of up to half a meter with a vertical mount and half as low with a horizontal mount. Therefore, at a height of 10-30 mm. a gap is left from the floor, which will protect the lower boards from rotting.

It is impossible to join the lamellas of the wooden lining to the stop, as is done in the house, in the sauna. The tree swells and shrinks from humidity and temperature, so there must be a compensation gap for the “movement” of the wood.

The consequences of improper fastening (deformation, discrepancy) are shown in the photo.

How to make a gap between the lining?

Execution technology: the next board is driven into the previous one until it stops. Then several marks are made along the seam lines (preferably not with a pencil, but with a sharp object). Then the board moves relative to the previous and intended marks. Since the lamella moves by eye, each subsequent board must be checked with a level.

Advice. Mounting the lining on the wall will look more beautiful if you withstand the docking of the boards on the ceiling and wall.

The upper ends of the boards adjoin the ceiling closely.

Fixing skirting boards for wall paneling and decorative elements

Plinth, corners, other accessories for finishing the sauna can not be "planted" on the glue. For their fastening, only finishing nails are used, followed by grinding of the installation site.

How to sheathe a doorway with clapboard

Doorways are given special attention. The slopes in them are finished with the help of lining, cut to the desired length. And the openings themselves are framed with platbands.

How to sheathe clapboard slopes on windows

Directly in paired windows they are rarely equipped, more often they are made in a dressing room or washing room. In any case, it will not be superfluous to know how to make slopes from lining.

In order to simplify the installation of the lining, professionals advise installing a slope in the window opening using the starting bar for the plastic lining. Then the wooden lamella is inserted into the bar with one end, and the second is attached to the crate beam. This framing method is ideal in its simplicity, and is suitable for those who install metal-plastic windows in the bath. But, it should be remembered that the thickness of the starting profile is 10 mm.

The second installation option is to install a frame for the slope, lining it with clapboard and then decorating the place where the clapboard adjoins the window with decorative strips.

This method of finishing the slopes with clapboard is best used by those who have wooden windows installed in the bath.

If the thickness of the wall is small and the slope is not wide, then you can veneer it with a wooden lining for lining.

The material was prepared for the site www.site

Finishing washing in the bath clapboard

Installation of lining in a washing room is carried out similarly to installation in a steam room, but it should be remembered that the bottom boards or ends of the boards during vertical laying should be at least 30 mm apart. from the floor.

Users note that plastic panels and PVC lining have proven themselves well in the interior of the washing room. Wood decor allows you to create the desired design and at the same time ensure long-term operation of the finish. Ceramic tile and the tile also looks great in the sink.

How to sheathe the dressing room of the bath with clapboard

The dressing room is designed to leave your things in it and take a break after soaring. In more modern versions baths, the dressing room serves as a rest room in which furniture and appliances are installed. Due to the fact that this room is not much different from any other in the house, the installation of the lining does not differ in features.

Due to flammability, lining near the furnace firebox is not mounted. It is better to finish the furnace place with brick, stone, in extreme cases, sheet metal or other non-combustible materials.

It is worth noting that on the ceiling it is also not allowed to connect the chimney pipe to the lining. Therefore, a stainless steel screen is installed on the ceiling. Behind the screen, the pipe should be wrapped with basalt wool.

Installation of lining near the sauna heater

But the heater (the place where stones traditional for the Russian bath are stacked) is not only possible, but necessary to finish the lining. Moreover, preference should be given to hardwood lining. Due to the fact that wood heats up less than stone, the wood finish of the heater will protect sauna users from thermal burns.

Now you are familiar with how the lining is installed in separate rooms of the bath, you know how to fix the lining in the bath correctly. So, there are no obstacles to finishing the bath with a wooden clapboard with your own hands.

In cases where a bath or sauna was once built not from wooden beam, and from other materials available at that time, subsequently the problem arises of lining the internal walls of the steam room with technologically advanced raw materials for self-care. Clapboard lining for such cases is the best option.

Finishing the lining of the steam room looks spectacular

How to choose the type of material for sheathing

Plastic or wooden lining? Each of these materials has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages of wooden lining:

High environmental friendliness of the material. In particular, pine or spruce will release fungicides from the resin for a long time, which is an additional healing factor.
A more varied type of surface texture, even expanding if the lining is made with eurolining.
Ease of installation.
Excellent thermal insulation performance.

Disadvantages of wooden lining:

The need for antifungal impregnation.
Higher financial costs (even for an ordinary lining, not to mention the euro).
The dependence of the coating resistance on the initial quality of the material.

Advantages of plastic lining:

Less cost of funds for the acquisition of material.
A variety of textures and colors (this can also be achieved for wooden lining, but at a much higher cost).
Simplicity and ease of care.

Disadvantages of plastic lining:

Reduced (compared to wooden lining) temperature resistance - with sharp temperature fluctuations, the material is deformed.
Less thermal insulation.
The need to equip the crate (for a wooden lining on a wooden wall, the crate can not be performed).
The need to equip a more advanced steam room ventilation system, since the plastic does not “breathe”, and the fungus settles on the walls much faster.

Comparing the specific operating conditions of the steam room (duration, temperature), right choice material is easy to produce.

You can make a steam room in the old Russian style

The need for material and tools for work

If for plastic lining the selection process consists only in determining the most favorable color and texture of PVC panels, then with wooden lining the situation is more complicated. As you know, two types of material are produced:

eurolining, on which there are ventilation and drainage recesses;
ordinary.

The usual one, in turn, is produced in several classes - Extra, A, B and C. It is clear that best quality Extra class lining will have, but is it worth using it to finish the steam room - a room that will be used from time to time? Class B material is also quite suitable (up to three knots per linear meter are allowed) and even C (the presence of possible through holes in this case not critical, because, with proper ventilation of the room, dampness will not spread inward, causing the material to rot).

To properly sheathe the steam room with clapboard, you will need the following tools and materials:

screwdriver,
hammer,
galvanized or anodized fasteners (nails, self-tapping screws, screws),
blunt core,
sanding skin.

Of the materials, in addition to the lining itself, you will also need a heat insulator for the ceiling in the steam room. More often, foil finishing or, in a cheaper version, two-layer plastic wrap is used. It is advisable to use only high density polyethylene.

Foil as a heat insulator for lining

Foil trim will require more safety considerations when an electric boiler is used for heating, as well as when protecting the premises from lightning strikes. After all, foil is a conductive material. The same security measures should be taken with regard to the electrical insulation of lamps that can be placed in the steam room. By the way, all electrical fittings and wiring must be completely ready before the start of lining the room with clapboard.

Determination of material consumption

The need for material for cladding is determined by the known area of the inner surface of the steam room. In addition, the direction of the skin is important - vertical or horizontal. The fact is that the main movement of steam - from the bottom up - creates such conditions for the circulation of moist and heated air in the steam room, in which the lining on its lower surface will remain wet longer than on top. For PVC lining, unlike wood, this will not matter much.

With the wrong direction of laying the clapboard, some tree species - for example, aspen, birch - need additional processing with moisture-resistant transparent varnishes, which will provide wood paneling higher durability. By laying the lining correctly, you can avoid these additional works.

Vertically laid material will not provide the same conditions for thermal expansion / contraction plastic panels: the upper ones will deform more intensely than the lower ones. Finishing with wooden clapboard with a vertical arrangement of the strips is also undesirable, but for a different reason - the inevitable uneven moisture content of the material.

Vertical arrangement of panels

Ultimately, the result is the same - to ensure the maximum possible durability of the lining when it is used in a steam room, the material should be fixed correctly - in a horizontal direction. In this case, only the bottom row of the coating will have the least resistance, but its re-sheathing will still be cheaper than replacing the entire steam room coating.

Standard lining panels have the following overall dimensions:

length, mm - 2500-4000;
thickness, mm - 10-16;
width, mm - 150-300 mm.

To correctly determine the need for lining on a schematic plan, the steam rooms mark the relative positions of all openings, after which they select the optimal multiplicity of panels. This is done so that the number of joints is the smallest. For plastic lining, one should also take into account the gap for thermal deformation of the material - up to 5-6 mm for each joint.

Mounting methods

Professionals perform installation in one of several ways. The following installation options are recommended.

Installation starts from the bottom far wall of the steam room

After laying the first panel, the next one is inserted into its grooves, on the inner ledge of which a clamp is nailed or screwed. The final attachment is made only after checking whether the adjacent lining strips are correctly installed. The advantage of the method is that each cladding element to be replaced can be dismantled without removing adjacent panels.

Mounting panels are nailed

For finishing, it is recommended to use a core so as not to damage the front surface of the material. With sufficient skill in working with a hammer, the process occurs very quickly. Also, additional costs for the purchase of clamps will not be required. True, replacing a panel that has become unusable will be more difficult than in the previous case.

Pin installation

Holes for self-tapping screws are drilled along the crate or directly along the wooden wall of the steam room, after which wooden dowels are inserted into them (it is possible with waterproof glue), wooden lining panels are superimposed on them. The final surface is carefully polished. The advantage of this method is that fasteners are almost completely invisible. In addition, the risk of panel deformation is significantly reduced, since in this case all fasteners are wooden.