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Upholstery of the ceiling with clapboard in a wooden house. Clapboard ceilings in modern interior design. Base mounting options

AT recent times Quite often, when decorating houses, lining ceilings are used. This material is relatively inexpensive, easy to install on the frame and can last a long time. Installation of products is easy to carry out on your own, thereby saving some money on hiring workers. But first of all, you will need to choose a lining.

This finishing material is presented on the construction market in a wide range. Each of the models has some features and should be used in certain conditions. To choose the right board, you need to pay attention to the type of wood, product profile and material class.

For the production of lining very often use such coniferous varieties wood like spruce, fir, cedar, larch. The presence of resin inside the material ensures its protection from the effects of insects, fungi, mold and the development of pathogenic bacteria. Such lining can be used for sheathing residential and utility rooms in areas with a temperate climate. Do not use the material in hot countries or for finishing baths and saunas inside. The fact is that the resin expands under the influence of high temperatures and flows out. In addition to the hassle of soiling clothes, furniture, and so on, tar can also cause a fire.

Popular types of wood used for finishing work

A fairly popular material for creating a lining from a lining is linden, oak, alder, aspen and ash. The wood of these varieties lends itself well to mechanical processing, so the finished products are distinguished by ideal geometry. Such lining can be used for finishing any premises, including living rooms, balconies, baths and so on. The main advantage is resistance to temperature changes and humidity.

Material classes

There are the following classes of lining:

Important! Only the first 2 classes of material are suitable for sheathing ceilings in residential premises. The rest do not meet the quality requirements.

Profile

Depending on the type of connection, lining is divided into ordinary and euro. The first option is cheaper, but it loses significantly in terms of configuration:

Eurolining is equipped with a deeper and more reliable tenon-groove connection system. Due to this, even when the wood dries out, cracks will not form on the surface.
Availability ventilation ducts allows the material to "breathe", which reduces the risk of mold.
The strength and plasticity of eurolining is higher than that of a simple one, due to the peculiarities of production.

Above are two main profiles, but when choosing a lining, it is also recommended to pay attention to calm, American, blockhouse, ladhouse and double-sided products.

Preparatory work

To make a ceiling from a lining with your own hands, you must first carry out a series of preparatory procedures:

Remove all electrical lighting equipment. Remove the old lining if it is Bad quality. If the ceiling was previously leveled with plaster or putty, then you can not remove the layer if it holds well.
Then you need to tap the surface with a hammer and check for weaknesses. This is necessary so that the ceiling structure does not collapse.
Remove the formed dust from the surface, and seal all knocked out holes and cracks with a cement-sand mortar. After that, you need to leave the ceiling to dry for 2-3 days.
Next, apply 2 coats of a primer with antiseptic properties to secure the wood material to be laid. This can be done with a roller or sprayer. The break between operations is 4 hours.

Then you need to unpack the material and lay it out in one layer on the floor. So it should lie down for about 1-2 days. During this time, the wood will absorb moisture and adapt to certain conditions in the house. Only after such a period of time can the lining be laid. Otherwise, the surface may crack or warp.

Necessary tools and materials

To lay the lining on the ceiling with your own hands, you will need the following:

Level, marker, ruler, tape measure for marking.
Perforator and drill for making holes.
Screwdriver, dowel screws, kleimers and nails for installing battens and wall paneling.
Wooden or metal profiles for the frame and lining itself.

On a note! Mounting the lining on the ceiling is work at height. It is necessary to worry in advance about the availability of a reliable ladder or piece of furniture on which the employee will stand.

Surface marking

To lay the lining, you will need to apply markings, according to which the frame will be mounted. Easiest to work with laser level, but if this was not found, you can get by with a conventional tool. Using this device, you need to find the lowest point of the ceiling. This will be the starting point of the frame.

Then you need to find the center of the ceiling and draw a longitudinal line. After that, mark the walls along the perimeter, taking into account the thickness of the frame board and the blockage of the ceiling. You should check the building level as often as possible. In this case, the markup will be accurate.

If the room is narrow, for example a balcony, then one longitudinal strip is enough, if not, you need to draw the same ones over the entire surface every 70 cm. Then, in increments of 40 cm, draw along the entire ceiling perpendicular to the longitudinal guide strips.

On a note! When marking, it is important to remember that the height of the clearance should be enough to hide all the irregularities, insulate the ceiling, and lay engineering communications in it. All this needs to be considered at the stage of marking. In most cases, the ceiling is lowered by no more than 10 cm.

Frame installation

Masters rarely use the direct fastening of the lining to the ceiling. This is only possible with a perfectly flat and properly finished surface. In all other cases, you will have to pre-install the frame. Laying lining can be carried out on a wooden or metal structure.

Metal

In this case, the frame is mounted on the ceiling as follows:

First, profiles are mounted on the markings on the wall around the entire perimeter of the room. To do this, measure the required distance on the product and cut it with scissors for metal. Then they apply it to the wall and drill holes every 30-40 cm. The profile is fixed with a dowel-screw. Each installed part is checked by the building level.
Next, install the carrier profile along the longitudinal line. It is better not to cut it and not to assemble it from separate parts, but to use a single fragment. It should be mounted in the same way as the previous type of product, the only difference is that the ends must be brought into the previously installed perimeter profile.
Lastly, “ribs” are installed perpendicular to the longitudinal profile. To do this, the product is cut and mounted on dowel-screws.

At the very end, the finished structure must be checked with a level.

Wooden

To finish the ceiling with clapboard, you can also use a wooden frame. Its installation takes place according to the following principle:

The first step is to install two wooden profiles on opposite walls under the ceiling and check the resulting working area with a level.
After the lowest point is found, the remaining profiles should be successively installed on the ceiling on self-tapping screws, placing bars under them to compensate for irregularities. Profiles can also be fastened with driven dowels or anchors.
Then you need to pull the thread under the ceiling of the room and check the installation.
Perpendicular elements are mounted in the same way as the longitudinal ones, but taking into account the stretched thread.
If a heavy lining is installed on the ceiling or it is planned to manufacture a multi-level surface, reinforcement with additional rails will be required.

Should know! The profiles are mounted on the surface in a perpendicular position to the course of the lining, while it is necessary to strictly control the horizontalness of the structure. For plastic, the distance between the slats is 20-60 cm, 60-100 cm for wood.

Installation of lining

Finishing the ceiling with clapboard includes the following procedures:

First of all, measure the required length of the products and cut off the excess with a hacksaw or jigsaw. In this case, a gap of 5 mm should be taken into account - this distance will protect the coating from cracking if it picks up moisture and increases.
The first board is installed with a spike to the corner and secured with a self-tapping screw, kleimer or bracket. The gap from the corner should be 3 mm.
The following products are inserted into the groove of the previous one and pushed tightly. Rigidity of fastening of a design is reached at the expense of connecting system. Additional fasteners are not required. Thus, you need to dial the entire ceiling.
Then cut the last boards, if necessary, and install them in the corners.
At the very end, plugs are mounted and ceiling plinth to mask the seams. At this stage, the lining of the ceiling with a clapboard is completed.

In order for the installation of the lining to be successful, adhere to the following rules:

During the installation process, it is necessary to regularly check the structure with a level.
To connect elements without gaps, you can use rubber mallet. A metal hammer can only be tapped through the gasket.
The last element is more convenient to mount with wedges.
To cut the board, you do not need to saw through it to the full length. It is enough to make shallow cuts at the ends, and then break the product.

The lining for the ceiling is installed quite simply. It is only important to follow the above recommendations and remember about safety when working with construction tools.

The modern market offers a huge number of different materials for finishing the ceiling. Some people prefer stretch ceilings, others construct suspended drywall structures. However, today we will talk about lining - how to choose a material suitable for the ceiling, how to build a crate and how to install it. Lining the ceiling with clapboard is a very laborious task, so you must approach the issue with all responsibility.

Features of choosing lining for the ceiling

Once, clapboard was understood exclusively as a wooden version of this material, but on modern market you can already find several variations at once. When choosing one or another type of material, personal wishes, financial capabilities, goals and features of the room itself should be taken into account.

Modern lining is made from:

wood;
polyvinyl chloride (PVC);
pressed hardboard (MDF).

Let's take a closer look at each of the varieties.

Wooden lining

Obviously, it will perfectly emphasize the "natural" design of the room. Such a lining is absolutely safe and can be used in any room, and the cost of the material depends on the specific type of wood used in the manufacture. As a rule, alder, cedar, aspen, fir, oak, larch, etc. are used for these purposes.

Pine boards are characterized by excellent antiseptic characteristics, which is explained by the exuded resins, which give the material similar properties. These resins protect the wood surface from mold and mildew. Another advantage can be called the fact that pine by its nature has few knots, and this, in turn, was reflected in the quality of workmanship.

Note! Hardwood is an option that is more suitable for indoor use, while softwood lining is versatile. However, any lining is susceptible to high humidity, so you must take care of proper impregnation and regular ventilation.

Another wooden lining is classified according to the quality of the board into four groups. Let's consider them.

Prices for lining

Table. Classification of lining according to the quality of the board.

Class	Description
	The material is in perfect performance, devoid of any dents, cracks or chips. Produced by applying the splicing method, but also costs accordingly. For damp rooms, such lining is unsuitable, because in conditions of high humidity it can become covered with cracks.
	On such material, small knots can be detected, but there are no other defects. The most popular category of lining, which is available to most consumers.
	There are defects, but they are minor. The material is undesirable for use in living rooms, but for balconies and summer houses this is the best option.
	Low-grade lining, characterized by numerous defects.

Video - Features of the choice of lining

Lining from MDF

It looks similar to its wooden counterpart, but is produced using a completely different technology (we are talking about pressing wood chips). The main disadvantage of such lining is the fear of moisture: upon contact with it, the material swells, loses its original properties and appearance.

This finishing option is more suitable for walls, although it is often used to simulate columns in a house. The advantages include good noise and thermal insulation characteristics.

Note! On sale there is MDF lining of various colors and textures, but the important thing is that they can be easily combined. Finally, the installation procedure is also not difficult.

PVC lining

A good finishing material that is ideal for the ceiling. Easy to install, but at the same time quite fragile (this must be remembered if you plan to sheathe walls with boards). Therefore, PVC lining cannot be used where there is a high probability of its deformation or damage.

Such lining can be:

seamless;
with seam.

In the first case, the material forms an integral and smooth surface, and the seams between the panels are almost invisible. If you use a lining with a highlighted seam, then it will look like eurolining on the ceiling. One more Advantage of PVC panels in that they are immune to moisture, but under the influence of ultraviolet light can fade.

PVC lining prices

PVC lining

Note! It turns out that the ceiling can be sheathed as wooden clapboard, and plastic (polyvinylchloride) panels.

We calculate the amount of material

To calculate the required number of lining, you need to know what the dimensions of this sheathing material are. In accordance with GOST, the standard width of one board should be up to 15 cm, length - 600 cm, and thickness - from 1.2 cm to 2.5 cm.

GOST 8242-88. Details profile from wood and wood materials for construction. Download file.

Panels with a thickness of less than 1.6 cm are used for interior decoration, and lining with a thickness of 1.8 cm or more is used for external work. If you know the dimensions of the boards, you can determine their square. Let's say the width of the lining is 9.5 cm, and the length is 600 cm. In this case, the total area of \u200b\u200bone panel will be 0.57 m².

To calculate the required amount of material, divide the area of the ceiling by the area of \u200b\u200bone board. For example, the ceiling area is 9 m². In this case, the calculations will look like this:

9 m²: 0.52 m² = 17.3

It turns out that you will need at least 18 panels. But at the same time, remember that during installation, the width of each board will be slightly less than the total - this is due to the nuances of the tongue-and-groove fastening of the material.

Ceiling panel prices

ceiling panels

Checking purchased panels

So, you have chosen the type and color of lining, calculated its quantity. Purchased and delivered home. What to do next? Now you need to lay out the panels on some flat surface and carefully examine them. The fact is that sellers often put several low-quality copies inside the package. But this point is better to check directly in the store.

Next, you need to pay attention to drying the lining (this applies only to wooden panels). MDF and PVC products do not require this procedure. Drying is necessary so that the boards do not deform. The procedure should last at least 14 days, but more is possible. In no case should this rule be neglected.

Stage number 1. We prepare everything you need

Work must begin with preparation necessary equipment; for lining the ceiling with clapboard you will need:

drill or puncher (for a concrete ceiling, the diameter of the drill should be at least 6-7 mm);
building level;
screwdriver;
roulette;
hacksaw or jigsaw (in order to cut panels; tools are suitable for all types of lining).

In addition to the lining itself, the features of the calculation and choice of which were discussed above, other materials will be required. So, for the installation of panels, you will need a frame (crate), which can be of two types.

Wooden crate. The best option for the home, because it costs less than a metal profile, and it is much easier to attach panels to it.
Metal frame. In most cases, it is used for drywall.

If the ceiling sheathing is planned in the bathroom, then it is better to give preference to a metal frame, since in conditions of high humidity the metal does not deform, which cannot be said about wood.

So, if the frame is wooden, then prepare:

beam 4x4 cm (according to the area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling);
self-tapping screws;
brackets;
wedges (made of plastic or wood) for mounting the frame.

If the crate is metal, then you will need:

metallic profile;
self-tapping screws;
fasteners;
anchors;
suspension.

After preparing everything you need and drying (if required), the lining can begin to work.

Stage number 2. We prepare the ceiling

Step 1. Delete old plaster, clean the ceiling surface from dirt and dust.

Ceiling profile prices

ceiling profile

Step 2 Draw the markup for the construction of the frame. Determine in advance in which direction the lining will be attached (it is advisable to give preference to the one in which there will be no inter-end joints between the boards).

Note! Due to the fragility wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic before installation. But this still will not be a guarantee of 100% protection.

Step 3 If we are talking about a private house, then you also have to lay heat-insulating material. Install profile racks in increments of 50-60 cm, and lay insulation between them. As for apartments, there is no need to do this.

Step 4 First, determine the level at which the crate is mounted. Then mark the direction of the bars. The panel must be attached strictly perpendicular to the direction of the timber. It can be mounted vertically, horizontally and diagonally.

Now fasten the brackets at the same distance from each other. Attach a wooden beam to the brackets. To level the level of the crate, use wooden wedges.

The crate is installed very evenly, the lining will be stuffed on it. Otherwise, the coating will turn out to be wavy, ugly.

Step 5 Install fasteners with a maximum step of 50 cm. For eurolining, this figure should be half as much.

Proper preparation is a very important stage of sheathing, on which the durability of the entire structure depends.

Stage number 3. We mount the lining on the crate

The installation procedure is not difficult, it does not require special skills or knowledge. It is recommended to work with an assistant - in this case, boards of any length will be fixed quickly and efficiently.

Step 1. Take the first panel and firmly fix it with a spike to the wall. It is important that the boards are attached perpendicular to the crate.

Step 2 Correct the position of the first panel with a level, then fix it.

Note! The lining can be fastened both to kleimers and to small nails. The last mounting option can be used only for those rooms where the aesthetic component is not particularly important.

Mounting with clamps will cost much more, since you will have to spend money on buying them.

Step 3 Take the second panel, firmly insert it into the grooves of the first and fix it in place of the frame.

Step 4 Attach all other panels in the same way. The last board may need to be cut, so try to keep it against the least visible wall. For wooden and MDF panels, it is better to use a jigsaw, and for plastic - hand saw. Measure holes for communications and lighting fixtures directly during installation - this will help to avoid errors.

Note! If you use nails for fastening, then their caps must be cut with a special tool. In the future, the attachment points must be covered with wax.

Step 5 To decorate the finished ceiling covering, fasten wooden skirting boards around the perimeter - they will perfectly hide the cracks of the trimmed material. You can also paint the ceiling to make it look even prettier. Although it is desirable to cover the wooden lining with varnish, and the baseboards with dark stain and varnish.

Stretch ceiling prices

stretch ceiling

Video - Do-it-yourself clapboard ceiling lining

How much does a wagon cost?

The cost of boards depends on many parameters, including the type and type of wood, the length of the panels, the equipment on which they were made, etc. By price, lining can be divided into three large groups.

Expensive. High quality material, for the manufacture of which soft hardwoods are used. As a rule, such panels are processed according to European standards. The cost usually starts from 310 rubles per sq. m.
Medium. Solid hardwoods, which will cost 215-300 rubles per square meter. m.
cheap. It's about about boards made of coniferous wood. These are in the range of 100-215 rubles per square meter. m.

If you plan to hire a specialist for sheathing, you can calculate the approximate cost of his services. Finishing one square will cost about 150-350 rubles (the specific amount depends on the complexity of the work and the qualifications of the master).

Features of caring for lining

In the case of using a wooden lining for the ceiling, be sure to accept additional measures. So, to extend the life of wood, treat it with special solutions that prevent rotting, mold and mildew. These include impregnations and primers. When choosing one or another means, look at the color - it should be the same as the color of the final result.

Note! Also, the lining can be impregnated with oil or coated with varnish or paint, as mentioned above. You can choose how to process the ceiling.

To maintain the original appearance of the coating, wipe the dust as often as possible. If the pollution is running, and a soft, damp cloth can no longer cope, then use special treatment products that are commercially available in a large assortment.

When working on interior decoration premises apply various materials. But despite modern technologies and development, lining is in great demand in the market building materials. Today lining is the leader in the sphere of ceiling coverings. Therefore, in this article we will consider the question of how the lining of the ceiling with clapboard occurs on a balcony or any other room.

The advantages of lining include ease of installation, beautiful appearance of natural wood, relatively inexpensive price.

Materials and tools for fastening lining

From the tools you should take:

screwdriver or impact drill;
nails / dowels / screws / self-tapping screws / clamps;
a hammer;
centimeter / tape measure;
building level;
hacksaw for metal;
table and stepladder.

The main elements of the installation are the lining board and the frame. The frame for ceiling sheathing is of two types - wooden and metal.

When installing with a wooden frame (crate), you will need:

suspensions for attaching the frame to the ceiling;
wooden bars measuring 40x40 mm, from which the frame is assembled;
self-tapping screws.

Bars for a wooden frame must be perfectly even and intact.

If you choose a metal frame, you will need a metal profile made of galvanized steel, hangers, metal screws.

The lining material for the ceiling is varied - it can be wood, fiberboard, polyvinyl chloride or MDF. Lining made of wood (pine, linden) is in great demand.

For bathrooms with high humidity and kitchen areas, you should opt for a metal frame and plastic lining. A wooden lining is also suitable for the kitchen, but it is better to mount it on the base of a metal crate.

Unlike a wooden frame, galvanized metal profiles are not susceptible to deformation from moist air.

In the bath for ceiling sheathing, natural wooden lining panels are ideal, despite a high degree humidity in the room.

Preparatory work

How to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard, where to start? Before starting work on fixing, it is necessary to prepare the ceiling - remove the chandelier and small lamps. Also inspect the ceiling surface for damaged plaster or whitewash and cracks.

After eliminating defects, the ceiling surface should be treated with an anti-mold agent. If necessary, the ceiling can be insulated with a layer of heat-insulating material.

Mounting

Step 1: Installing the frame

Fastening the lining to the ceiling surface begins with the installation of the frame. Without a crate, lining with a clapboard will not only not hide the flaws in the ceiling surface, but will also emphasize them.

Before installing the crate, the first thing to do is markup. It is worth paying attention to the direction in which the lining will be laid. The profiles of a metal frame or laths of a wooden crate should lie across (i.e. perpendicular to the direction of the lining), with the longitudinal direction of the lining - vice versa.

The crate must be installed as evenly as possible, otherwise the lining may be skewed. A wooden crate has less durability than a frame made of metal profiles. But a wooden frame is more suitable for lining the ceiling with a clapboard made of wood.

Installation of a wooden frame for lining consists of several stages:

If there is no need to lower the ceiling level, then wooden beams are attached directly to the ceiling surface.
Wedges made of wood or plastic should be used to level the frame.
Brackets are first installed on the ceiling and there are already bars to them.

If the ceiling is sheathed with plastic lining panels, then between wooden beams masters recommend maintaining a distance of 40-60 cm. For lining panels made of solid wood the distance between the bars should be from 60 to 100 cm, respectively.

Installation of a metal crate consists of the following steps:

Take measurements of the height of the room / room at all corners, thereby determining the lowest point.
From the selected point, measure a line of 5-10 cm - level.
Along the entire perimeter of the walls, taking into account established level the initial metal profile is attached. Dowels can be used as fasteners.
Hangers for the profile must be attached to the ceiling surface. Suspension plates are bent downwards.
Metal main profiles are attached to suspensions and initial profiles.
Before the final fastening, you should check the level of the location of all frame profiles.

The choice of crate depends on preferences and financial capabilities. Metal profiles are durable, but also more expensive than wooden frames.

Step 2: Laying communications (wiring)

Before fixing the lining, you should check the operability of the electrical wiring being laid, its reliability and insulation strength.

Step 3: Lining with clapboard

In the course of work, the material from which the lining is made is not significant. Since the workflow for each type of lining is similar. The strips (panels) of the lining are cut with a length equal to the length of the ceiling (minus 0.5 cm). If the walls are not perfectly even, then the panels are placed close to the wall. The strip must be laid perpendicular to the frame guides and with a groove to the corner.

Then the first strip is attached on both sides along the entire length. It is necessary to retreat from the wall at a distance of 5 mm.

The final strips of the lining must be tightly inserted at a certain angle into the groove (lock) of the previous panel. To achieve a tighter fit, it is allowed to use a small rubber hammer: gently tap on the end faces of the panels.

The second side of the panel should be screwed / nailed to the rails of the crate at the bottom of the lock.

In the course of laying the lining, you need to decide on the wiring - make the appropriate exit holes. Otherwise, after completion of work, it is problematic to remove the electrical wiring and you can deform the material.

The process of attaching panels to the ceiling continues to the opposite side of the room. The last panel should be driven into the groove, additionally using small wedges. These wedges are driven in between the lining panel and the wall.

Most likely, the last strip will need to be adjusted in length. In the case of using a wooden lining, the strip is cut with a hacksaw. If the panel is made of plastic, it is necessary to make one even cut on both sides of the panel and carefully break it.

Of the common methods for fixing lining strips to the ceiling, experts distinguish 2 main methods:

fixation with clamps. The use of a special building bracket (kleimer), which is “put on” on the groove of the lining panel and attached to the frame. The use of such brackets completely eliminates damage to the lining material. Fastening with kleimers is suitable for lining made of plastic.
open fixation. This method is used in the case of ceiling sheathing with heavy lining panels. With the open method, at least minimal skill and accuracy are required.
fixing with screws. This method is used, like kleimers, when sheathing with plastic lining panels.

Self-tapping screws or small nails with small caps (or without caps) are used as fasteners in this method. Nails should be carefully driven vertically into the grooves of the panels so as not to distort appearance coatings. But if, after fastening, the lining strips are treated with a dark-colored varnish, then you can not hide the nail heads, but hammer them in the center of the panel.

When fastening with nails, hammer blows should not be applied directly to the nail head. In this case, you can use a special nail extension (doboynik).

In the process of fastening the lining, it is necessary to avoid the formation of gaps and cracks between the panels. Otherwise, the appearance of the ceiling will suffer significantly.

Step 4: Installing skirting boards

At the end of the installation work, a decorative plinth (or corners) is installed around the perimeter of the updated ceiling. The plinth will hide the gaps between the ceiling and the wall, the ends of the trimmed lining strips and give a finished look to the ceiling surface.

Conclusion

The process of attaching the lining to the ceiling is not laborious in itself. A person without experience in repair and finishing work or with a minimum of repair skills.

It is best to fix the lining on the ceiling surface not alone, but with an assistant. So you can significantly reduce the time, make the mount better and even. In addition, it is very difficult and inconvenient to hold the lining panel on your own.

As a result, the lining of the ceiling with a clapboard looks presentable, such a ceiling will delight for a long time with its ideal look, texture and color.

Almost all of its history, man has gone hand in hand with wood. This natural material It is used everywhere - including for the construction of residential structures, for their cladding. Wood flooring is not only very durable and aesthetically pleasing, it is also completely environmentally friendly.

Many people ask the question: how can the ceiling be finished in a room. If you want to get a natural solution, it's time to think about how to make a wooden lining ceiling. Compared to plastic counterparts or hardboard, lining is the very material that perfectly tolerates cold and heat.

The choice of lining, its varieties

So, finishing with a wooden clapboard ceiling - what are the features of this process? To begin with, in detail about what a lining is.

This material is a cut board, the thickness of which is not more than 2 cm (sometimes 22 mm). The lining is used both for external cladding of various structures, and for internal finishing work.

What else can be noted? Following:

Often people think this way: since the lining is a simple board, you can buy it and immediately nail it to the surface (if the lining of the ceiling is finished exactly to the ceiling), there is nothing difficult about it;
In fact, this is a big misconception. If you want the lining of the ceiling to be of high quality, you need to know how to work with such material. Choice also matters.

Secrets of choice

To begin with, you need to choose a lining, in order to work with it later. Before buying, the master should know that the finishing material does not have any processing.

That is, if you wish, you can apply the color that you want to it - this is exactly what many people do.

Besides:

When you want the lining to remain in its natural, natural color, you can apply a simple stain on it;
This tool works as follows: it provides protection to the tree, while effectively emphasizing its structure;
Finishing with wooden clapboard may include applying varnish or paint to the material. If the wood is not processed, it will deform as it dries, this is a fact.

When choosing, you should carefully examine the back of the material: there should be two grooves. They are required in order for ventilation to be carried out without any problems. Otherwise, in the future, the material may “lead”, which is definitely not needed by anyone.

Lining and its class

Finishing a wooden clapboard ceiling is a responsible job. Before starting the process, the master must understand that such material has different classes.

The lining is divided into:

A class;
B class;
They also allocate an Extra class.

From each other, all these classes differ in the number of knots, their presence and the quality of such elements.

Immediately the question which class has the most knots? Everything is simple here - in B class. In addition, it is useful for the master to know the following: in the material of this class there may be knots that are "inanimate".

That is, during use, they can easily fall out;
Because of this, not very aesthetic holes are formed on the surface of the ceiling (or other surface for which lining was used);
Therefore, class B is not recommended to be used for lining the ceiling with clapboard.

And what can be said about the "A" class of material? Here everything is as follows:

There are an order of magnitude fewer knots here, any of them will be “live”;
These knots will definitely not fall out during operation, so that holes will not be formed on the surface;
Therefore, a ceiling made of wooden lining of this class is a very good, thoughtful and economic solution.

But with all this, the most aesthetic version of the ceiling is obtained when the "Extra" class lining is used. This is sometimes called euro-material. Everything here is going to be top notch.

The peculiarity of this class is that there are no knots on the lining at all;
Therefore, such material is often chosen for lining in saunas, baths;
The logic is simple: if there are no knots, then they are guaranteed not to fall out. Accordingly, there will be no new holes in the finishing material - heat will be stored as efficiently as possible;
It’s a completely different moment - how to finish the ceiling in the house with eurolining. Here they work in much the same way as with simple material, some cardinal differences cannot be called in the installation process.

What is suitable for a couple

In the case when the ceiling lining in the steam room is what needs to be done, the ideal option is.

It is explained like this:

The material responds well even to high temperatures, copes well with excess moisture;
The cost of the material varies greatly - it all depends on the class;
When choosing a lining for finishing the ceiling, they first pay attention to the class of the material, after which they look at the price.

If you chase only for favorable prices, you can very seriously miscalculate - which will eventually lead to serious additional costs. It will be necessary to redo the skin - you will have to spend money on Additional materials, this is definitely not required by anyone.

Raw lining or processed - what to choose

To date, both processed material and unprocessed material are on sale. If you want to finish the wooden lining of the ceiling, then what is better to choose?

Experienced craftsmen advise making a choice in favor of raw material.

Everything is simple here:

When the lining is untreated, if necessary, it can always be painted in the desired color;
Many are specially purchased with just such material - in order to preserve the natural shade, natural texture: it looks very nice in the interior;
Also, the sale often comes with material that was processed in production, but at the same time the process itself was performed with serious violations of technology;
Another point: when the material is stored, mistakes are often made. The point here is not only optimal temperature to save the lining;
There is also a place to be simple negligence: the laying was not done evenly, some not very smooth surface was chosen as a place for storage.

The consequence of all this is that the whole batch turns out to be crooked, such material will definitely not work if it is necessary that the decoration of the wooden lining of the ceiling turn out to be aesthetic.

Interesting Facts:

Sometimes, when the lining is untreated, and something of the above has happened to it, it is simply allowed to lie down - it almost always straightens;
The dyed material will not straighten out - it will remain exactly the same as it was, the defects will remain;
Because of this, there will be problems during the upcoming installation work.

Details about installation: tricks, secrets, instructions

So, with the lining class, everything has been decided, the material has been selected. Now the matter is small - it is necessary to install it: finish the ceiling, because it was for this that the whole process was started. Here, too, you need to act cautiously, in stages.

The material must be acclimatized

When the lining is delivered, you should not immediately attach it to the surface. Installation of lining on the ceiling is performed only when the material has acclimatized, “got used” to the room.

The ideal solution: let the material stay in the room for at least two days after delivery - then subsequent work with it will be completed without problems.

This whole operation is needed so that the boards do not “drive” after finishing. This often happens when they work quickly, in a hurry to carry out the installation.

Arrangement of the crate

Where do they start installation work? That's right, first you need to make a crate. Usually slats are used for this - then the lining will be fixed on them.

This is how they work here:

You need to cut the frame slats into pieces - to get the elements of the desired length. It is necessary to achieve the following: so that the slats are located exactly from one wall to another - while having a perpendicular direction relative to the lining;
The frame rails are attached to the carriers ceiling beams(or to floor slabs). A lot depends on what the material of the ceiling in the room is;
The distance between the rails is selected depending on the dimensions of the purchased finishing material.

And the installation itself. It does not matter in which house the crate is being made - in wood, concrete or brick, you first need to find the lowest point on the ceiling.

When this point is found, starting from it, the crate is installed;
When installing each rail, the master must carefully observe the horizontal location of this element - the building level will help in such work (in general, it is not recommended to get down to business without such a tool);
In the case when the ceiling is far from ideal, planks, elements from the rails can be placed under the crate;
Self-tapping screws with the required length are ideal for fastening;
Namely: a suitable self-tapping screw should pass without problems not only through the rail, but also through a special lining;
Much depends on how evenly the crate will be fixed. More precisely, the final result of all the work depends on this.

How to proceed, if the height difference is very large?

Here it is appropriate to use suspensions. The most common ones are suitable - which are used when mounting profiles for drywall sheets. It turns out reliable, convenient - at the same time very high quality. Any master will confirm this.

Providing vapor barrier

After the construction of the crate for finishing the ceiling with clapboard, you need to think about everything related to vapor barrier. Even if .

Here the work is done as follows:

When the floor beams are made of wood, they must be pierced with a construction stapler - thereby the vapor barrier layer is shot. And if the surface is made of concrete, then they are glued with some kind of adhesive;
It is customary to overlap all the joints of the vapor barrier material. 100 mm overlap is enough - there is no need for large indicators;
It is important to glue the joints along the length with construction double-sided tape;
It is best to carefully read the instructions before undertaking the installation of a vapor barrier - so that the material is guaranteed to be on the right side. This moment is very important, the quality of the entire surface finish with wooden clapboard depends on it.

Working with joints

The vapor barrier is laid - you can take up the installation of the finishing material to the ceiling surface. If the work is carried out in a house made of wood, while the structure is new, it is better to leave some gap between the walls and the lining: 1.5-2 cm is enough.

This is required in order to compensate for the shrinkage of the house - after construction, it will definitely be observed for two to three years.

The length of the material is joined in two ways:

This is done either in a checkerboard pattern;
Or they do a "butt-to-butt".

Another interesting point: experienced craftsmen advise beginners - wiring must be done before mounting the lining on the ceiling.

Mounting methods

If we consider such interesting topic, like finishing the ceiling with a clapboard, it is impossible not to touch on the following question: how is the fastening made. To fix such material, self-tapping screws are usually chosen.

Also, nails can be used here. There are also special mounts - they are called kleimers.

Here everything happens like this:

The kleimer slides into the groove of the lining;
He is carefully knocked out until he gains full grip with the board;
After the kleimer is attached to the crate - with screws or nails;
When the master is going to use nails, it is also better to have a doboy on hand. Due to this, the edge of the board will always be protected from accidental impact - this often happens when working with a hammer.

This is done as follows: a finisher is attached to the head of the nail (when it is already half hammered), then they hit the finisher directly with a hammer - and the nail enters completely inside. Which is what is required.

A perfectly reasonable question what is the disadvantage of nails?

Here is the thing:

The use of nails is a traditional method. The product is inserted into the groove somewhere at an angle of 40 degrees - after that it is driven in with a hammer until the element reaches the middle;
Then you can use a doboynik - drive a nail to the end;
What negative side such a method? The fact is that the edge of the groove of the lining can always be deformed - and even the doboynik here will not give a guarantee of protection one hundred percent;
Someone will say that the defect will be insignificant, it will not even be noticeable from the outside. Perhaps this is so, but high-quality lining of the ceiling with a clapboard with this approach will definitely not work;
There are craftsmen who specifically make special metal elements needed to protect the boards from accidental hammer impact;
Such a device is placed on a board and is a kind of shield. When the nail is driven in, it is removed, then installed in a new place - and so on, step by step, to the end;
Another disadvantage of the method is the presence of lubrication. On sale today, nails usually come in a special lubricant. When work is being done, the master's gloves get dirty quickly, as do his hands. If you touch a blank board with such a hand that has no processing, its appearance will suffer significantly. Then you have to work extra - remove the dirt with sandpaper.

The use of screws is also worth mentioning separately.:

If kleimers are not used in the lining of the ceiling, it is best to fasten with screws - this is better than nails;
An opinion may arise that in order to fasten a lining board with screws, it will have to be pre-drilled - otherwise the material will simply crack;
In fact, this is a delusion - a lot depends on the diameter of the self-tapping screws / screws.

As a rule, products are chosen for fastening, the length of which is 2.5 cm, and the diameter is 2.5-3 mm. The head of such a screw has a diameter of 6 mm - definitely no less.

If you want to use just such an element, you will actually need to pre-drill a hole, otherwise the material will crack;
But the master can always choose products of a different size, fortunately, there are all kinds of screws on sale today;
A great option: choose screws, the diameter of which is 2-2.3 mm, the length is 25 mm;
In such an element, the cap has a smaller diameter - about 5 mm.

It would seem that the difference with the "destructive" version is only five millimeters. In fact, in cladding, even such a tiny indicator is very important. Even visually, such screws differ from each other - what can we say about the impact on the lining, which is attached to the ceiling surface.

What are the advantages of screws

Clapboard ceiling decoration: photos and videos are something that you should definitely study carefully. Such materials will help to do the work efficiently, competently. For example, see the video below.

What about screws?:

With them, you can make a mount without any preliminary drilling at all - nothing will crack, you should not even worry about it. The lining that is on sale, such screws are those materials that are ideally suited to each other;
Another important advantage of screws over the same nails is that the lining can always be dismantled from the ceiling;
Screws are easily removed when needed. And this may be required in a situation where repairs are being made. Nail without negative consequences for its environment it will definitely not be possible to remove it.

common misconception, because of which many refuse screws:

Often people think that the cap of such an element simply will not allow the crest of the subsequent lining to fall into the groove. You don't have to worry about this;
If the board is made correctly, there will be enough space for the screw head to fit properly;
When the lining is made in accordance with the technology, there must be a gap inside when connecting;
To protect your work from mistakes, when purchasing material, you just need to attach two boards to each other. If there is a gap inside, the products are definitely made correctly. If there is no gap, it is worth choosing another material for purchase;
Such a gap is definitely needed, because it is worth remembering about linear expansion. Otherwise, the entire coating on the ceiling is deformed - and repairs will have to be made.

The conclusion is simple: there is definitely enough space for a screw - you don’t need to worry about it.

A little advice: it is better to refrain from purchasing screws in certain construction markets. To do this, it is better to visit a specialized hypermarket - here the products will definitely be of high quality, standardized.

Ceiling work can be called one of the stages of any repair. Ceiling repair is a rather time-consuming job, so everyone strives to facilitate and simplify this process. Clapboard ceiling decoration is considered the most simple option, requiring neither construction experience nor special costs. But how to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard correctly?

To answer this question, you need to carefully study some of the subtleties of the process. Sheathing of the ceiling with clapboard is carried out in several stages.

Lining on the ceiling looks noble

Material selection

This stage can be safely called the most important, because you need to choose a quality material that will last a long time.

The modern construction market offers a variety of materials for finishing residential premises. One of these materials is lining. It is a panel with a comb on one side and a groove on the other. The connection of the tongue-and-groove panels allows you to create a reliable fixation system.

Most often, natural wood is used for the manufacture of lining. Linden, pine and cedar are considered ideal raw materials.

Depending on the quality, wooden lining is divided into categories:

"Extra" - these are panels High Quality, they have no knots and dark spots. The price of such material is very high.
"A" - material with a small number of knots. The lining of this class is available to most consumers.
"B" - panels with knots on the surface. Suitable for finishing country houses, lounges and balconies.
"C" - material of very low quality, with a large number of knots and dark spots.

Wooden lining on the ceiling

In addition to wood, polyvinyl chloride is used to make lining. Plastic panels have a number of advantages:

resistance to high humidity;
no additional treatment with protective agents is required;
decorative film on the surface can imitate any expensive wood.

But PVC panels also have negative qualities:

under the influence of gravity, the material may crack,
the color of the lining "burns out" from the sun's rays.

Having bought a wooden lining for ceiling sheathing, you should use the following tips:

After unpacking, the purchased material must be laid out in the room where the ceiling will be sheathed.
In order for the drying panels not to deform, the surface under them must be sufficiently even.
It is recommended to dry the lining for a long time, from one to three months.

Selection of tools

Lining the ceiling with clapboard involves the use of simple tools that are in the arsenal of each owner:

drill,
screwdriver,
hacksaw,
level,
roulette.

Preparatory work

First of all, it is necessary to remove the old coating from the ceiling, clean the crumbling plaster.
Then you need to make a markup for the crate. The frame guides are placed perpendicular to the chosen direction of the lining boards. The direction is chosen with the condition that the panels have no joints in length.
If wooden bars are chosen for the frame, then they must be additionally treated with protective agents. The metal crate has small indents from the ceiling, which allow you to hide the existing engineering systems and communications.

The surface under the frame must be perfectly flat. This will extend the life of the ceiling and avoid unnecessary problems.

The crate for plastic lining can be made of wooden slats

Installation of panels on the crate

For finishing the ceiling with clapboard is not required a large number of people with special knowledge. But the help of a friend or relative will greatly facilitate the work. This is especially true for the installation of long panels.

The first panel is pressed tightly against the wall and fixed in those places where the frame passes. The comb of the second panel is inserted into the groove of the panel of the previous row and fastened in the same way. Work should be carried out only at a positive temperature and low humidity.

Holes for pipes and fixtures are cut in the course of work to avoid unnecessary cuts.

Lined ceiling

Fastening is best done at the points where the ridge enters the groove. This will hide the caps of the fasteners. When covering the ceiling with wooden clapboard, it is advisable to use stainless fasteners to prevent the appearance of rusty stains. It is possible to use hidden fasteners, but its cost is quite high.

The ceiling, lined with clapboard, does not require special care. The main thing is to clean it from dust and dirt in a timely manner. And on plastic panels the found damages and scratches can be overwritten with wax.