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How to make a hand saw handle. Wooden handle for a file with your own hands. Video: file handle manufacturing technology

Somehow I needed to buy a miter box, but in the tool store there was only a miter box complete with a back saw. The miter box and saw were very Chinese, but the urgent need for a miter box forced me to purchase this set. Time passed and I decided to try this Chinese saw in my work. After the first pass, the handle of the saw broke and not only broke, but shattered into pieces, while I hurt my hand with sharp edges. Oh, and for a long time I remembered this “wonderful” saw. Some more time passed, and after examining the blade itself, I decided that it could be useful for precise cuts, and the butt of the saw would make it even. It remains only to make a new pen for her. And so, the topic of the article is a do-it-yourself saw handle.

Making a handle is very simple, for this we need a small piece of plywood 7 - 9 mm thick, three m3 screws and two m5 screws with nuts, a pencil, a jigsaw, sandpaper, a drill.

First you need to find out what size the old pen was, for this we collect its fragments and glue it together, it may not be very accurate, only the outline is important to us.

As you can see in the photo, the old saw handle has weakness, so in the new pen we will strengthen it. Next, we need to make two blanks for the new handle, as it will consist of two halves. Why is it necessary to attach an old pen to a piece of plywood and draw two contours of our blanks with a pencil. Then, using a jigsaw, you need to cut out two blanks. Then you need to put them together, while as accurately as possible to establish the coincidence of dimensions. We drill through holes for fastening screws and for mounting screws. We fasten the two halves with m3 screws and process their edges in a yew until they become one, without any gaps. It is very good to use sandpaper, as plywood is easily processed with sandpaper.

It is also necessary to make recesses for the hacksaw blade and the butt in the place of their attachment.

Then you can put everything together.

After the handle was made, the saw was tested and passed all the tests. You can bring back to life not only saws, but also other tools by making handles in a similar way.

Very often, during operation, both the metal sheet and the handle-holder itself can fail. It is very easy to make a mini hacksaw for metal in workshop conditions.

This will require an old stone diamond blade. You will also need to prepare a grinding tool (angle grinder, grinder, drill), drilling tool, electric jigsaw, a couple of wooden bars and a few pieces of copper fittings.

First of all, we will draw the future body of the hacksaw on a piece of paper and glue it to the disk. Carefully cut out our blank along the contour. We grind all sharp and protruding edges on the grinder.

Main stages of work

After that, we apply a metal blank to the wooden bars prepared in advance, and outline the contour of the product. Cut out the wooden handle with a jigsaw.

The next step is to assemble the hacksaw using epoxy glue and pieces of rebar. Next, we grind the common surface to a comfortable hold in the hand. Coated with mineral oil.

After that, we insert the canvas into the groove and fix it with a bolt and clamping nut. A detailed device and manufacturing can be viewed in the video below.

If you set out to find a bow saw, then searching the Internet for garden saws will lead you nowhere. And behind a thin canvas of 4-5 mm, you can generally stomp on Ebay or Amazon, because there is definitely no such good in Russia. A beam from a bent pipe is not at all what I needed.

The bow saw in its classic wooden version has much more possibilities when correct work. These are curly cuts, and cutting deep spikes, and cutting along (for example, sawing a board 50 mm thick into two 25 mm each), if necessary, you can use blades of different lengths, while changing only the size of the support bar. A bow saw is essential in the workshop even if you have a band saw as a machine, as there are situations where only a hand tool can do the job. The wooden bow saws that I managed to find did not like their performance ... rude and the price is very inadequate. Therefore, as usual in such cases, I tried to do it myself. The prototype was a saw that the guys from New York make under the Gramercy Tools brand. Their website has 1:1 drawings in pdf freely available. General form I took from them, and used my own sizes, finalizing the checkers. Material oak 30 mm. Opened with a margin.

I planed the width of the template, which I made from cardboard.

Before cutting the saw racks, I drilled holes for the handles (shakhovka) and made a recess for the spike of the spacer bar with a chisel. I removed all the irregularities after the jigsaw with a plow.

Then, with a hand planer, I made a narrowing of the upper parts of the racks, having previously marked the center for reference.

At the bottom I worked with a rasp and a file in the area of the holes for the handles, and then with a plow I made a narrowing to the bottom. It turned out like this.

Most of all I had to tinker with the handles. Since I don’t have a lathe, I got out of the situation with a jigsaw. I applied a profile to 4 sides of the bar, and then sawed it from all sides to the marking line. With a chisel, he knocked down the resulting scallop. Smoothed the corners with a rasp. Drilled holes for the bolts before this procedure.

He covered the saw with water stain “under the old oak” and teak oil. My bowstring is from postal twine.

I used a furniture bolt with a diameter of 7 mm, in which I made cuts for fastening the canvas with a pin, as a checkers. I drilled a hole in the canvas, and used a stainless steel wire with a diameter of 1 mm as a pin.

I rounded the ends of the strut (middle), sawing out a spike first, and made a recess at the docking point at the rack with a rasp. It turned out to be a kind of joint.

The canvas used from the usual band saw 6 mm wide. There are several cuts with different tooth frequencies 4 and 6 tpi I will try. The first tests with a 6 tpi blade showed that the blade needed to be re-sharpened because the tooth angle was too aggressive and sawing was not easy, but quite possible. At small radii, the saw cuts excellently. Rez cannot be called clean, but it may seem to someone.

Woodworkers make a handle for their own tool: no matter how good a factory handle is, it is made according to the pattern of an average brush.

To make a pen “by itself”, you need to take a cast of your own brush on soft clay or plasticine, lightly squeezing it with your fingers. Usually the handle is made from stacked plywood, but a solid piece of softwood handle is much better and, despite its softness, is not inferior in strength to plywood.

1-2-3-4-5 - WE START PLANTING

First of all, prepare a planed board 1 of the required thickness, apply the pattern of handle 2 on it so that its fibers are located along, and not across the cutting blade. Cut off the excess part of the workpiece along the edge of the 3rd pattern. From the end of the cut side, make 2 cuts 4 with a depth of 4-5 cm with a circular saw. Insert the rails 5 greased with PVA glue into them and clamp them in a vise for a day. After drying, cut the workpiece
6 along the line, cut out 7 to the depth of the canvas. The width of the cutout does not matter much, because. gaskets will be inserted from 2 sides of the canvas.

HOLD ON, FABRIC!

If there are no fastening holes in the canvas, and you plan to change it periodically, they can be replaced with longitudinal cutouts 8, making them an emery wheel.

The width of the cutouts must match the fixing bolts. To permanently fix the blade,
9. Rivets (even aluminum ones) must not be used - the wood may split. Their role will be played by bushings 10, the length of which is slightly less than the thickness of the tree, so washers 11 will be additionally needed. The bushings can be cut from a thin-walled tube or made from tin.

Cover the surface of the handle with PVA glue, and after it dries - with varnish. So that the pen does not “dazzle”, before using colored varnish, cover it with 1-2 layers of zapon varnish.

Yusup Gelazov
Based on the materials of the newspaper "Toloka. We do it ourselves"

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From time to time, many home craftsmen are interested in the question of how to make a beautiful and comfortable wooden handle for a used file with their own hands. First of all, it is worth noting that it is better to take such types of wood as a patterned walnut as a basis, as well as a sevelly maple. These are quite durable materials that are distinguished by an attractive texture, high strength indicators, and they also contrast optimally.

file handle

In addition to a well-chosen tree, you will need to prepare materials such as plastic and brass. To connect the parts, it is better to use a special epoxy glue. The file itself does not need to be prepared, since the work is carried out with the tool already used in the work. When deciding on such a question as making a handle out of wood, a file may be required only during the final work.

Preparatory processes

If the prepared blanks are made of walnut or maple, then the wooden handle for them is cut with a hacksaw. You can also use a regular electric jigsaw or a small circular saw that is equipped with a special planing disc. These tools give the most even cut, which will greatly facilitate all subsequent processing.

Important! In the process of sawing, it is important to choose the right angle in relation to the fibers of the tree. This will help to get a nice texture on the cut.

All obtained blanks are carefully polished on a special grinding grid or using sandpaper. When carrying out this process, special attention should be paid to the careful fitting of two blanks made of wood relative to each other. This is not a wooden shovel, where the handle is made from one single piece. They should be very evenly adjacent to each other, without forming any gaps. If the edges are slightly loose, this is not a problem, since everything can be cut off during post-processing.

File handle drawing.

After that, a blade is taken with a bolster previously put on it, the shank is superimposed on wood blanks and everything is outlined in pencil. Then, using an ordinary square, the marking is transferred to the ends of the already finished parts, it turns out a finished wooden file handle or a faucet for a bath.

Once the hole for the shank is completely marked, the drilling process can begin. To do this, you will first have to measure the thickness of the shank and select a drill of exactly the same diameter. When carrying out work at home, the drilling process is best done using an electric drill, after holding the prepared workpieces in a special vise. Thanks to these actions, two parallel holes can be obtained, between which a thin partition is formed.

You can remove it with a file or a special tool - a needle file, which, when carrying out this process, will need to carefully check the degree of ratio of the axes. For this purpose, several times it will be necessary to put the blanks on the shank and turn them from the right sides.

Construction assembly

The next step is to prepare a package of all the necessary parts.

Their sequence should be as follows:

File;
Souvelle;
Brass;
Wood.

When assembling such a structure, it is important not to forget that special gaskets made of plastic are laid in each connection, the same applies to such a device as a bath faucet.

Important! All parts of the handle must fit very tightly and without gaps to each other. This is important as it affects the overall quality of the bond produced and the future aesthetic appeal of the resulting product.

File.

Adhesive work

In the process of gluing the main structural elements, it is recommended to use your own epoxy adhesive. It is mixed according to the instructions, and to give an attractive color tint to the composition, a small amount of black toner, which is used for conventional cartridges, can be added to the glue. There are several rules for gluing the future structure:

All parts necessary for gluing must be prepared in advance, since it will be possible to work with prepared glue for no more than an hour.

Each part must first be carefully degreased. For this purpose, you can wipe it with ethyl alcohol.

In the process of smearing the blanks with glue, it is important to ensure that it penetrates well into the hole of the blank made of wood.

After processing the parts with an adhesive composition, the set is firmly clamped in a pre-prepared vise and remains there until the glue is completely dry. As a rule, this takes a day, and the end of the drying process can be judged by hardened drops of glue. If this is a bath faucet, more time is needed. After that, all planes are carefully aligned with a file.

Final actions

The glued handle needs to be carefully turned to give it the necessary shape and neat appearance. This is a rather responsible and lengthy process that requires patience and perseverance. For this purpose, you can use a hacksaw for wood, if the shape is as close as possible to the correct one, or a hacksaw for metal, if the layer of materials intended for erasing is large enough.

The final shape is given with a file or simple sandpaper. The finished file handle is impregnated several times with pure mineral oil and then the product is covered with a layer of carnauba wax. Treatment with this composition is necessary for the reason that it protects the master from getting wounds in the form of splinters, for example, if it is a tap for a bath.

This technology is universal, it can be used if a wooden shovel, a sledgehammer holder or other product with a wooden handle is required. A do-it-yourself wooden handle can be done as quickly and simply as possible if you follow the instructions and tips for implementation presented to your attention. The result is a product, thanks to which it will be convenient and very comfortable to work with a file, it will be possible to make any desired products from different types of wood - a sledgehammer handle or a faucet for a bath.