Remove old plaster. The process of dismantling plaster. Cleaning the ceiling from paint
The process of repair in any of its performance is always a very time-consuming task. People who first take up business on their own will definitely have a lot of questions in the course of various works. Some of the most relevant will probably be related to removal methods. different kind old finishes. In this article, we will look at basic ways to remove plaster from walls and ceilings, we will learn how to correctly analyze the current state of the coating and make decisions regarding the unambiguous need for its dismantling. We will also consider situations where the old plaster can be left or locally repaired and strengthened.
1. Remove old plaster or not?
It is the base, the basis for any other finishing materials, be it wallpaper, decoration, etc. It is on how well the plastering is done that determines the final result of the repair and the appearance of the room. The coating must be even, smooth and have good adhesion to the wall surface. Only in this case, the wallpaper or paint will lie flat. That is why before finishing it is worth competently assess the condition of the old plaster layer and understand whether it will withstand further load, whether it will collapse under a layer of glue or heavy facing materials. It's one thing when the plaster has already begun to clearly move away from the surface of the wall under its own weight and rests on parole. And quite another - when visually the coating looks absolutely holistic and reliable. 
AT this case need to carefully tap all surface walls:
Things don't always go so badly. Sometimes only a thin surface layer 2-3 mm thick is removed, and underneath it is quite suitable plaster. So be sure to explore the wall as carefully as possible. This will not only help reduce the recovery time of the coating, but also save money on the purchase of a new plaster mixture. In addition to the condition of the coating itself, the nature of the successive facing works also affects. Sometimes such a laborious and dirty process can be avoided:
- For example, if you plan to do wall cladding, then old plaster will not hurt you. In order for the structure to be reliable and last for more than one year, just try to carry out the installation in such a way that the load falls not only on the solution layer, but also on the wall itself. In other words - choose dowels and more authentic so that they enter the wall at least half of their length;
- If you plan to finish the walls with decorative plastic, wooden, mirror and other types of frame-based panels, then you can also follow the above recommendations.
2. Complete dismantling or repair?
After you have identified all the shortcomings of the old coating, the next question arises - to remove it completely, or partially? Consider the cases when complete dismantling is necessary:
Also, an important role in deciding on the complete removal of the plaster is played by its compound. On your walls you can find the following types of solutions, depending on the year the building was built:
Pay attention to Availability characteristic defects plaster layer. They can be a signal for certain actions. The most common disadvantages are:
If the old plaster is quite strong and only in some places the above inconsistencies come across, it is possible to carry out local repair:
pledge The fact that this kind of repair will be successful and will not entail further destruction is the use of a similar composition. Well, or at least refuse to use denser and stronger mixtures. For example, anything can be applied to cement plaster, as long as it really consists of good cement. But on gypsum or lime, it is highly not recommended to apply cement. The base must always be stronger.
The left layer of old plaster is a must strengthen. To do this, you need to open the wall several times. You can use deep penetration acrylic primer, which is absorbed to a depth of 10 mm, polymerizes and strengthens the structure from the inside. Or a contact acrylic primer with the addition of quartz fine sand. It additionally cements the surface. The compositions are applied to a pre-moistened wall.
3. Room preparation
It should be noted right away that no matter what method you choose to remove the plaster, a large number of dirt, and sometimes dust, you are provided. Lime or gypsum plasters are susceptible to moisture. You can use this fact to make your work easier. Many experts recommend generously wet the wall before dismantling hot water 15-20 minutes before work starts. This will impair the adhesion of the solution to the base and make it looser. A thin layer can be wetted with a spray gun, and more than 6 mm thick will have to be well impregnated with a roller, sponge or rag. Just imagine what puddles will form on the floor. Take care in advance not to harm the rest of the surfaces, especially if the apartment is already partially livable:
All this must be done, even if you decide to slowly remove the plaster with a hammer and do not plan to dust. In the process of work, the use of or may simply become a necessity, but you will already be ready for this, and then you will not have to painfully wash everything around from corrosive dust for a long time.
4. Personal protective equipment and safety precautions
Now it's time take care and own protection. In any case, small pieces of plaster, breaking off from the wall, will fly in different directions.
5. Ways to remove plaster with a hand tool
The room is ready, you are in full gear, you can safely get down to business. The topic of how to remove old plaster from the walls in many forums is called hackneyed and "worn to holes." Indeed, nothing new has yet been invented, so we will try not only to list possible methods, but also to give some recommendations that we have collected based on user feedback.
All of the above ways are most quiet work is not accompanied by an unmeasured amount of dust and does not require special skills and the acquisition of expensive tools. Plus, they cost less to complete. physical strength. Is there a difference - to wield a small hammer or even a hatchet, or a four-kilogram perforator? the only disadvantage there will be a low speed of work performed, of course, if the plaster does not fall off at the slightest touch. There are places where a hammer cannot be reached, for example, in the corners, you will have to combine several methods.
On many resources you can find recommendations that it is best to start work at the top and move down. In fact, the following picture is obtained - you tapped the corners, along the way, some layers of plaster fell off by themselves, began to move down, passed 2/3 of the wall and stopped. We stopped because a sufficient amount of construction debris had already accumulated on the floor, which simply did not allow reaching the bottom of the wall. You will have to stop, rake it to the side (or better immediately into the bag, so as not to do the same job twice), and only then continue. So it's better start off with the bottom of the wall. Even if you need to substitute a stool, chipped fragments will not interfere with you. You will put it close to the wall, it will just be inconvenient to work, since everything will fly in the face.
6. Dismantling methods using power tools
Those areas that did not succumb to the blows of a hand tool will have to be cleaned using a power tool. Be prepared for a lot of dust too.
- The work will indeed move faster if used in the form of spatulas of various thicknesses. It is necessary to work by switching the device to the chiselling mode and setting it at an angle of about 80 degrees to the surface. In this position, it is necessary to break through the plaster to the full depth, and then, tilting the puncher at an angle of 30-40 degrees, begin to drive it under the mortar. This way you can achieve the greatest efficiency. But often a puncher is effective only when working with monolithic surfaces of the base, for example, with. Passing a softer layer of plaster, you will feel how the nozzle has already rested against hard concrete. Problems may occur when working with the removal of plaster from brickwork. The nozzle now and then can slide off the brick and fall into the seam. Thus, not only the integrity of the connection is violated, but a lot of bricks punctured along the edges can also turn out. Of course, if you are a professional, this may not be the case. In the case of removing loose plaster with a very high sand content, it may happen that the nozzle, penetrating deep into the composition, will simply perforate, but not chip off. This is due to the increased softness;
- In the same way, it can be used instead of a perforator;
- Can be used designed to cut the appropriate material. The old solution is “cut” into pieces, and then they are chipped off with a hammer and chisel;
- Via grinder and a nozzle in the form of a large or brush, you can grind off a layer of decorative gypsum plaster. It is necessary to determine the end time of work visually - they grind until the base material is exposed.
If it is possible to use the tool with dust collector be sure to use this. Maybe it makes sense to rent one for a few days.
7. Removing plaster from the ceiling
The process of removing old plaster from the ceiling counts especially heavy process. This is due to the fact that you have to work in a position where your hands are constantly raised up. They quickly get tired and numb, need more rest breaks.
It is impossible to say unequivocally which method is better to choose for removing mortar from the ceiling. First, it is necessary to evaluate each specific situation separately. Somewhere you just can’t do without a grinder or puncher. Somewhere a simple spatula and your patience will be enough. But there is one little trick that can make your job easier. We let's cook special softening agent, which, by the way, can also be used for walls:
If the solution layer is very thick and only its surface layer is chipped, remove it, then re-saturate the ceiling with starch solution and remove the remaining mixture. 
8. How can the remaining construction debris be used?
After such a "fascinating" process, you will certainly have mountains of construction debris. Especially when you consider that on average from one square meter walls, 15-25 kg of waste is obtained, depending on the layer of plaster. The easiest way is to put it in bags. Do not stuff the bags to the top, otherwise they may be unbearable. Use a broom and dustpan when cleaning. If there is an old unnecessary bucket, you can cut off its bottom and install it in a bag. It is much more convenient to stack waste in this way than if the edges of the bag are constantly wrapped, and you will spill everything past. Residents apartment building it is unlikely that they will be allowed to simply throw the bags in the trash. Certain rules forbid it. You will have to hire a special car that takes out the garbage. 
But for those who live in their own home or have country cottage area, similar waste can even come in handy:
In such a simple way, even construction waste can be usefully used!
Plaster defects vary by appearance and reasons for their appearance. In addition, they are divided into operational and technological ones, the difference between them is that the former occur over time, and the latter immediately after the coating is installed. Both of them can have the same appearance:
- Small blisters. These are bumps that appear on the surface of the plaster due to the use of hydrated lime that has not been sufficiently cured. Blisters give outstanding material particles.
- cracks. They appear with an overdose in solutions of binders or with poor-quality mixing. In addition, cracks in plaster can occur from its forced drying, especially when exposed to summer sunlight.
- Peeling. It occurs when applying plaster on an overdried base or on a less durable bottom layer of the coating.
- swelling. Such a defect can be caused by applying plaster on a base supersaturated with moisture.
The expediency of dismantling the plaster from the walls
Complete dismantling of old plaster is not always justified. The need for such work depends on certain factors. One of them is the composition of the plaster:
- Clay. Most often, this coating is used when finishing heating shields or fireplaces. When it is peeled off or destroyed, the thermal conductivity of the base material is disturbed, therefore, in this case, clay plaster must be replaced.
- lime. Such plaster must be removed when it is weakened or it is necessary to apply a cement-sand coating to the wall in the future.
- Gypsum. Its dismantling is carried out due to the destruction of the coating.
- Cement. The need to remove such plaster often arises due to errors made in the preparation of the solution, or violation of the rules for working with it.
- Polymer. For the most part, such plasters are very durable and are suitable for applying any coatings on them. Therefore, the need for its dismantling may be associated with errors that were made during the application of the composition and led to cracking or peeling of the finish.
When planning a new coating with the removal of old plaster, one should adhere to the main rule: it should not be stronger than the previous one, because otherwise, by shrinking, the new layer can destroy the lower finish, which has less stress.
Therefore, the third factor in the expediency of dismantling old plaster is the composition of the planned coating. So, for example, cement plaster cannot be laid on gypsum plaster, regardless of its condition, for the above reason. On clay plaster, except for the clay itself, nothing can be applied at all, the layer will not hold. But from above it fits perfectly on any base. Reliable cement-sand plaster can be used for laying any coating on it.
Preparatory work before dismantling the plaster
Before removing the old plaster, it is necessary to evaluate the quality of its structure and adhesion to the wall. To do this, tap the entire surface with a rubber mallet. In places where the coating does not hold well, a dull sound will be heard. Such areas should be marked with chalk for further work with them.
The presence of dampness in the room and sections of the walls with moisture appearing on them indicates a weak layer of plaster. In such cases, the problem areas and the problem areas adjacent to them by 0.5 m in each direction are cleaned from the old coating.
It happens that when the wallpaper is removed, a layer of plaster leaves with them. This is a good reason for its complete removal from the entire wall.
Any dismantling should be approached very responsibly, despite the fact that this work does not require special qualifications. The most important thing in it is the observance of safety measures, since often flying fragments of brick, concrete or a cloud of dust can cause damage to one's own health.
Therefore, before removing the plaster, it is necessary to stock up on eye, skin and respiratory protection. A respirator or gauze bandage can protect the respiratory organs, goggles - the eyes, and construction gloves and tight overalls - the skin from damage. In addition, for safety reasons, it is recommended to temporarily turn off the power supply of the room in which it is planned to remove the plaster from the walls.
When choosing a working tool for removing the coating, you need to focus on the thickness of the old plaster layer, the type of its material and the requirements for the cleaned base. The standard set should include: spatula, axe, pick or hammer, metal brush, long chisel, perforator with nozzle, broom, broom and dustpan, bucket, wide brush and garbage bags.
Important! Dismantling plaster can be greatly facilitated by the presence of an angle grinder or special tools, such as AGP and Flex.
The main methods for dismantling plaster from walls
Various types of plaster can be removed from the walls manually or with power tools. Depending on the characteristics of the coating, one method or another is used.
Removing plaster by hand
Before removing the plaster from the wall, it should be well moistened. This softens the surface and reduces the amount of dust. Pieces of plaster that do not adhere well to the surface of the base can be pry off with a steel spatula, removing them. Strong areas of the coating are knocked down with a chisel, ax or pickaxe.
Particular care must be taken when removing plaster from plasterboard partitions and walls. Such a base is easily damaged, so strong blows to it are excluded. In this case, it is convenient to work with loops. This tool is very similar to a sharpened spatula.
First you need to remove the weak areas of the coating. After cleaning small fragments of the wall, access to the side face of the plaster layer will open. Then a significant part of the coating can be removed by driving the cycle under its end.
If it does not lend itself well, you can use a chisel or chisel for trimming. In order not to destroy the surface of the drywall sheet, the chisel should be held at an angle, gently tapping the tool with a small hammer.
Dismantling plaster mechanically
The mechanical method of dismantling the plaster is used after manual cleaning of weak areas of the coating. Stubborn plaster that is difficult to knock off by hand can be removed with a rotary hammer or angle grinder. The puncher must be equipped with a chisel blade and switched to the “chiselling” mode. It should be borne in mind that his work is accompanied by a high level of noise.
The grinder is equipped with a diamond-coated stone disc for work. With its help, the plaster can be cut into small squares, and then removed piece by piece with a chisel or perforator. For mechanical removal of the coating, it is recommended to use an industrial vacuum cleaner. It will be able to practically reduce the appearance of dust in the workflow to zero.
After cleaning the wall, it is necessary to remove small areas of plaster residues. To do this, you can use a metal brush or any of the mentioned power tools equipped with an appropriate nozzle.
Dismantling decorative plaster from the walls
Silicate and polymer decorative plasters are strong enough, so it is very difficult to remove them. It is recommended to use the mechanical method described above. If such coatings can serve as a reliable basis for other wall finishes, then they can be left.
It is much easier to dismantle with your own hands decorative plaster from plaster. It has a loose structure and is very sensitive to moisture. These properties can be used. Half an hour before removing such plaster, the walls must be well wetted. Acetic acid can be added to warm water to help soften the material and make it more pliable.
Since the removal of gypsum plaster is a rather "dirty" process, the floor should be covered with plastic wrap before starting work. The removal of the coating can be performed with a scraper with a blade width of 130-150 mm. Having determined the required cutting angle and sufficient force, you can begin to remove the decorative protrusions on the wall surface.
If the base is made of drywall, the scraper must be held at an angle so as not to damage it. After removing the relief from one section of the wall, you can move on to the next. After dismantling the decorative plaster on all walls, you need to clean them from splinters and dust, and then wipe them with a damp cloth.
Clay and lime plaster is removed in a similar way.
How to remove beacons after plaster
There is no definite answer to the question of whether lighthouses are removed after plastering. However, there is an opinion that beacons left in the wall can lead to rust on its surface and even cracks. But no one can give a one hundred percent guarantee in favor of “for” or “against”, since it all depends on several important factors.
The first of these is the quality of the lighthouses. Metal profiles made from counterfeit low-quality raw materials can become rusty under the conditions of the plaster layer. When choosing products from leading manufacturers, this is hardly possible.
The second factor is the thickness of the galvanized layer on the lighthouse. With diligent leveling of the plaster and repeated rules on the profiles, a thin layer of galvanizing can be erased. Then the upper part of the profile will become susceptible to corrosion.
And, finally, the third factor is the humidity of the room in which the plaster is made on the lighthouses. In a dry room, the likelihood of rust is extremely small, especially with a well-functioning ventilation system.
As for the cracks, the opinion is clear here. The metal profile left in the plaster is a kind of reinforcement. Therefore, if you do not try to hang a picture or a shelf on it, it will behave well.
However, in order to save yourself from the slightest risk, the beacons can be removed after plastering the walls, and the cavities left by them can be sealed with mortar.
Disposal of waste after dismantling the plaster
As you finish dismantling works There is a lot of building debris in the building. Diligent workers pack it in bags on time so as not to stumble over pieces of chipped plaster. These bags must then be taken out somewhere. But the problem of disposal of construction waste is quite acute. Time and opportunity to take it out is not always available. This is often due to the workload of utilities, the remoteness of objects from city dumps, and a host of other reasons.
For apartment buildings There are no other options other than the removal of such garbage. Utilities usually prohibit loading it into a common container. The reason is clear: the weight of plaster, beaten off from 1 m 2 of a wall, is on average 20-25 kg. Therefore, a container filled to the top with such cargo may be unbearable. Therefore, the filled bags are loaded into the car separately and not in the first place.
For private houses, the problem is easier to solve: dismantling waste can be used on the farm. Pieces of cement-sand plaster can be used as a filler for concrete solutions when pouring platforms and sidewalks.
The removed clay plaster can be kept on the site for later use, especially since there is no need to mix a new mortar, since the proportions of clay and sand in it are already determined and implemented. It remains only to soak the material.
Gypsum plaster can be used as bulk insulation for floors of various buildings. The remains of the lime coating are good for adding to the soil of those places on the site where the growth of trees is undesirable.
How to remove old plaster - look at the video:
Subject to all these rules, the work you have spent will be justified by a good result and there will be a real opportunity to complete the work you have begun within the specified time. Good luck!
Preparation of the base implies not only its primer, but also the preliminary removal of the old coating, which sometimes lingers for a long time at the stage of reflection, How to remove plaster from a wall. And this question really requires a thoughtful approach, since the finishing layer once applied can crumble from a careless touch (which would be great) or, on the contrary, hold on extremely firmly. Let's start from the worst case scenario and get ready for some serious work.
Before removing the plaster from the wall...
Even if you yourself once finished the walls, having firmly decided to remove the old coating, you will have to get to know it again, or rather, test it for strength. To do this, we arrange a small test using a conventional spatula, which in the near future will need to clean the walls. Nothing complicated, just tap the surface of the walls with the handle of the tool every 30-40 centimeters, listening to the sounds. If the blows are sonorous, as if you were applying them to concrete, then the plaster mixture is firmly held in this place. Another thing is if the sounds are deaf, with a little more effort in such a area, you can easily bring down a whole layer of plaster.
Another sign of poor contact of the coating with the base is the presence of wet spots on the surface, but this can only be observed in rooms with an increased level of dampness. It is also unequivocally possible to recognize the site as unreliable with its clear cracking. Having found at least one of the listed signs, you can safely immerse the edge of the tool in the thickness of the coating and clean off everything that lends itself without effort. Keep in mind, you always need to remove a little more than it turns out, about 40 centimeters around the shot fragment. However, a spatula may not be able to cope with such a task, and then other methods come to the rescue.
How to remove old plaster without extra labor
Not always the coating should be removed entirely. And not all cases of cracking mean a weakened finish. Everything is relative and each case must be considered separately, although general rules still exist. The main one is that the finish is an unnecessary holding factor and needs to be got rid of, whether it be paint or wallpaper. By the way, in the process you can "lose" most of the plaster layer. To remove the paint, you need the same spatula, the wallpaper is easier to remove after wetting it. If any (or all) of the leveling finish is left, it's time for the above tests.
If cracks are found, carefully inspect them for shedding edges, tap the coating in this area. If the dull sounds from the blows are not heard, and the plaster itself is held firmly enough, we simply strengthen this place. With an ax or other tool with a sharp, strong edge, we expand the crack so that it looks like a Latin letter “V” in cross section. In the future, with a new treatment, the primed "trenches" will be filled with two-thirds of the solution, after which they will again be covered with soil for final smoothing. After grouting, there will be no trace of cracked areas.
In some cases, even the most reliable sites have to be removed. The reason usually lies in the excessive thickness of the old coating, which is impractical to withstand due to opening up new possibilities. modern materials. In this case, before removing the old plaster, the entire surface should be treated with warm water so that the finish is well saturated with moisture, and it will be much easier to remove it later. During the cleaning process, you will also need to spray the walls regularly to prevent or at least reduce the amount of dust.
Several options for removing old plaster from walls
Depending on the situation, you can act by force or take cover by "starvation", according to all the rules of the siege. The first method saves time, but requires a lot of strength, and the second is suitable for patient people with a large margin of endurance. From the tools we need in the first case, an ax or a hammer with a chisel (you can do both), a puncher and a grinder, as well as a spatula. Keep in mind that an ax used for other purposes will be pretty damaged, so use one that is not a pity. For the second method, we need a grinder with abrasive nozzles.
Before removing the old plaster from the walls, we put on gloves, sealed goggles and a respirator that can be replaced with a gauze bandage - all this will serve as protection from dust.
Power method for removing old plaster from walls - step by step diagram
Step 1: Getting Ready
Abundantly wet the surface of the walls and wait until the water is absorbed into the coating. If it seems to you that somewhere the drying process was faster than the saturation of the layers of finish, again moisten these areas properly. We do the same before removing the plaster from the ceiling. You can check how high-quality the impregnation is with a spatula, immersing its corner as deep as possible, until it stops, into the coating. After making sure that it is loose enough, we proceed to the next step.
Step 2: Pre-processing
It all starts with surface testing. We have already talked about it above, but in this case it turns out like reconnaissance in force. In other words, we take an ax or a hammer with a chisel and begin to tap the coating in the upper part of the wall, achieving chipping off individual pieces of plaster. Notches are made first of the above tools, and then individual fragments are pryed off and removed. With a chisel, putting it to the surface at an acute angle, you can knock down fairly large pieces of the coating.
Step 3: Chiseling
It happens (especially in houses of the old stock) that the plaster contains a large amount of cement, which causes cracks, but the coating itself is highly durable, and an ax with a chisel quickly becomes dull on it. In this case, it is better to pick up a puncher and, switching it to the chiselling mode, set it at a slight angle to the surface, and start to beat off individual pieces, periodically moistening the fresh chips with water. The nozzle is better to use a chisel.
Step 4: Cutting
Some plaster compositions hold on so firmly that even with the help of a perforator, things are progressing very slowly. It is easy to speed up the process, it is enough to install a stone disk on the grinder and start dividing the coating with horizontal and vertical cuts into small rectangular sections that will chip off much easier than a solid layer. When working with a grinder, it is recommended to water the wall as often as possible so that there is less dust.
To finish surfaces without attachments, it needs to be prepared, which is sometimes extremely difficult. Let's try to figure out how to remove oil paint from the ceiling before plastering it and why it is needed at all. There are several ways to do this, but everything will depend on the old finish.
Ceiling cleaning
Stripping old plaster
- In order to bring down the old plaster from the ceiling, a perforator chisel is most often used. But here it’s like a “double-edged sword”, because it’s not difficult to beat off with such a device, but you need to constantly keep it in your hands raised up. Therefore, if the hammer is heavy, then it will be easier to use bush hammers, an ax or a crowbar.
- If you are knocking down old plaster, then the most important thing for maximum performance will be to find weak spots. You can find such areas by randomly hitting the ceiling, and the appearance of cracks will indicate that the layer has begun to lag behind the base.
- In such cases, you need to try to drive a crowbar, an ax or a chisel between the plaster and the base, then the layer will be removed in layers, which will significantly speed up the work process. When you beat off all the plaster, this will not yet mean that you can start finishing, because there is a lot of dust and, possibly, small pieces of old mortar on the main ceiling. All this must be removed with a scraper, and then cover the ceiling with a broom.
Advice. If the old plaster cannot be removed in layers, then you should consider applying a new layer on top of the old one.
In this case, you will have to prepare the base by removing old paint or lime.
If you want a putty layer, it is not always necessary to remove the old paint, but this only applies to water-based coatings (not oil or nitro paint).
If it holds strong enough, then a coating with a deep-penetrating primer will suffice.
Cleaning the ceiling from paint
- Is it possible to remove the old paint from the ceiling, leaving the plaster in place? In most cases, this does not cause any particular problems, although the process itself is quite laborious and long. The main reason for removing the old paint layer is its cracking, which, in itself, greatly simplifies the task.
- But sometimes you have to carry out such an operation due to the fact that the surface is smoked or just lost its color, or maybe you need to putty the room in a new way. But this is not always easy to do, because it is extremely difficult to remove oil paint from the ceiling, which is applied to cement-sand plaster.
- What happens when old oil paint is applied directly to cement mortar? And there is excellent adhesion on both sides, and the paint layer turns out to be one with the plaster! Those who have encountered this know from bitter experience that there is only one way out - either beat off all the plaster, or beat off the paint with an ax, one or two centimeters at a time and there is no other way out!
- In hardware stores, you may be advised some kind of super solvents that supposedly dissolve the coating within 30 minutes or several hours - do not believe this, because you can remove oil paint from the ceiling either with plaster or by scraping it off by a centimeter! You may also be advised to burn a layer of paint. blowtorch. Well, it is possible, but imagine the consequences of combustion - soot and a corrosive smell that cannot be removed even in a few weeks!
- If there is such a situation when it is extremely difficult to remove the old paint, then maybe you should think about what options will help you do without it? But such opportunities exist, but they are quite conditioned.
Alternative
- Are there ways to remove old paint from a ceiling if it won't come off? Don't shoot at all. It can simply be camouflaged with other materials.
- To do this, you can use any design of suspended ceilings, but here the question may arise about the height of the room or the cost of such a design. The cheapest will be ceilings made of PVC panels installed on a wooden crate, and the depth of the frame, together with the clapboard, will take only 3 cm minimum (20 mm - rail and 5-8 mm - PVC panel).
- You can also save on the depth of the frame by installing any (textile or PVC) stretch ceilings. Of course, it will be more expensive than panels, but a correctly chosen baguette allows you to fall only 3 cm below the main ceiling. It will take more space, because only the profile has a thickness of 25 mm, and if you add more GKL and the thickness of the putty ...
- You can make a simple calculation of how much money, time and labor you will spend on chipping off old plaster and / or removing paint, and how much on installing PVC panels or a stretch ceiling. When everything is fully calculated, then you will be convinced that the lining will cost you less, and stretch ceiling, if more expensive, then very slightly. Many people want to remove old plaster and paint precisely because they consider this option the cheapest, but you can see for yourself that this is not the case.
Conclusion
When you are thinking about how to remove oil paint from a ceiling or how to knock old plaster off it, always keep in mind: firstly, this is not always the best cheap option repair and, secondly, not always the best, even in your case. Alternative finishing with suspended structures has long supplanted all other methods of repair, moreover, quite reasonably.
Before removing the plaster, it is necessary to determine both the need and the volume of this event. When making repairs before performing finishing works it is necessary to examine all the walls and find out how well the plaster is holding. The study is carried out both visually and by sound. That is, with a spatula or scraper, it is necessary to tap all the walls. If the surface of the wall crumbles only in some places, then only these areas will need to be puttied. If the plaster crumbles with sand under minimal impact or a dull sound is heard, indicating the presence of voids, then the old plaster will have to be removed. In a similar way, you should do in the presence of fungus, dampness, grease stains.
How to quickly remove plaster from walls
There are several ways to increase the rate of plaster removal. To begin with, it is worth repelling the entire surface of the wall with a hammer. AT weak points the plaster will simply crumble or fall off in a layer if it has peeled off the wall. The remaining places are to be cleaned with a spatula or scraper. If after this stage there are strong places that are not amenable to a mechanical tool, then they should be saturated with water. You can moisten the necessary areas with a wet rag or brush, after which you can tap the remaining plaster with a hammer again.
Equipment that allows you to quickly remove old plaster
If it is possible to use it with the “hit” option, then the process of cleaning the wall from plaster will be significantly accelerated. Automation of labor is not limited to the use of a puncher.
Alternatively, you can use an ordinary grinder, which you want to equip with a disc for working on concrete and stone. By cutting the plaster into small sectors, you can even knock it down manually with the help of improvised tools, for example, a hammer and a chisel.
You can also use specialized machines for removing plaster and grinders. This equipment literally erases the desired layer of the wall with an abrasive wheel. This is the most dusty option, so it should only be used when a hammer and chisel are no longer able to solve the problem.
The expediency of using each of these tools directly depends on the thickness of the layer, the density and type of plaster, as well as the required surface cleanliness.
Finishing plaster cleaning
In order for the layer of new plaster to have optimal adhesion to the wall, it is necessary to get rid of the remnants of the old layer in the masonry joints. In addition, after processing the wall with a hammer, spatula, chisel and perforator, it is advisable to treat the entire surface with a metal brush. Alternatively, you can put a brush attachment on a drill or grinder, so cleaning is completed in the shortest possible time.
Only after completing all these points and applying a good primer, you can be sure that a new layer of plaster coating will not fall off the wall.
