How to caulk a house from a bar? Caulking a wooden house - methods and stages Materials for caulking timber

Round log cabins are in great demand. These building materials hold heat well in the room, have a pleasant appearance, and are environmentally friendly, created from natural material - wood. Thanks to the perfectly even shape of rounded logs, many people think that they do not need to worry about insulating their houses. In fact, this is not so, because it is impossible to lay the crowns on top of each other so that there are no gaps between them. Even if there are minor gaps, they will turn out, in the future, after the shrinkage of the house, they will become even larger, and heat will come out through them. It is necessary to insulate the cracks with the help of insulating materials immediately during construction and after using caulking.

The process of caulking is the driving of insulating material into the intervention gaps. It needs to be done several times:

• immediately after construction;
• a year or 1.5 after shrinkage of the house;
• 5 years after construction.

For houses made of rounded logs, one caulk produced after shrinkage of the log house is enough. This process well insulates the seams between the logs, prevents the penetration of cold into the room, the ingress of moisture and freezing of the interventional joints. The main thing is to properly insulate the house and use only high-quality insulation materials.

Materials for caulking

Materials for insulation wooden houses through caulking has a lot. All of them can be divided into two main types:

1. artificial heaters. They are made from mineral, synthetic components.
2. Natural interventional heaters. They are made from natural materials, plant fibers.

Artificial materials include:

1. Mineral wool, glass wool and other fibrous mineral wool insulation. They are environmentally friendly, but can still lead to the development allergic reactions at the residents. They insulate well, rodents do not start in them. But these heaters are not hygroscopic and even afraid of moisture, it worsens their main characteristics.
2. Foamed polyethylene and other closed-cell insulation. Materials from it well insulate the interventional seam. They don't let in the cold, they don't let out the heat. But at the same time, they don't breathe. They can be compared with a plastic bag, creating a greenhouse effect in the interventional joint, this can lead to damage to the wooden material, its decay.
3. Foam rubber and other open-pore insulation materials. These heaters are not able to protect the interventional seam from freezing. Despite the fact that air and moisture are able to penetrate into the small pores of the material, they are compressed under the weight of the upper rims of the log house, and as a result, a non-breathing homogeneous mass of insulation is obtained.

Many artificial insulation materials do a good job with their thermal insulation tasks. But it is desirable to use them for structures built from bricks, concrete, cinder block and other mineral building materials. These heaters are not suitable for wood, they will shorten its life, worsening its strength characteristics.

Natural interventional insulation materials include:

1. Moss. This is the most the best insulation. It was used for caulking a hundred years ago. It does a great job of insulating your home. It has good hygroscopicity, it is able to absorb moisture with a volume of more than 20 times its own size. The structure of the moss fibers contains lignin, which prevents rotting and damage to the insulation material and the logs themselves. It has bactericidal properties, will destroy the bacteria in the room in the air.
2. Jute. It resembles moss in its properties, but it is easier to work with it. The density of jute is good, does not let heat and cold through. This material breathes, is hygroscopic. The appearance is also different, jute has a golden color, similar to the shade of wood. In interventional seams it looks beautiful and aesthetically pleasing.
3. Linen. This is a cheaper material, but its properties are worse. He is afraid of constant contact with moisture, which can lead to rotting. The shade of this material is grey. The density is not large, linen is softer to the touch. It is desirable to use this insulating material for warming houses built from dry wood, it is perfect for glued laminated timber.
4. Lnovatin. Good insulation is made from jute and linen. These two materials together create an excellent insulation, which includes their positive qualities. Lnovatin is resistant to external influences, with good density and the ability to restore its dimensions. If the wooden material dries out, this insulation fills all the voids in the mezhventsovy space of the rounded log.

The process of caulking is not easy. It is best not to do it alone. Insulation material must be started from the lower interventional seams and gradually rise higher. Caulking must be done around the entire perimeter of the house at once, and not first completely insulate one wall, and then move on to another, otherwise the walls may squint, or even slip off the fastener, for example, a dowel.

For caulking wooden house from rounded logs it is best to use natural materials. They complement the wood material, improving rather than worsening its performance. If you don’t have experience with insulating materials, and you can’t cope with caulking, you can use alternative method insulation - sealing.

Sealing seams

Sealing seams is easier and faster than caulking with sealants. It is easier to work with them than with insulating interventional materials. The hermetic formulations of the Neomid company have proven themselves well: Word Professional and Word Professional plus. These products are very similar to each other, but only the second sealant is more elastic and can be applied to surfaces with a large angle of inclination. Otherwise, they are no different.

Neomid sealants have good adhesion, excellent adhesion to wood material and excellent elasticity. Sealed compounds are applied with a construction gun. The hermetic seam is not afraid of weathering, moisture, does not turn yellow under the influence of sunlight, mold fungi do not form on it.

Caulking a log house with your own hands is a rather complicated and tedious task. This is filling between the timber or logs of the walls of the house with fibrous insulating materials, for example, tow, felt or moss, as well as other heaters.

When erecting the walls of wooden houses, interventional insulation is laid between a beam or a log, but it does not fill all the cracks and spaces. The process of shrinking a new log house lasts a long time, about five years, so you need to caulk a wooden house several times. The first time this procedure is carried out immediately after the construction of the log house, the second - after 2-3 years, and the last time it should be caulked about 5 years after construction.

How to properly caulk a log house? Even in such a simple job, newbies often have questions.

Caulking should start from the lower crown of the log house and fill it completely without moving to another crown. Only after finishing the caulking of the lower crown, you should move on to the next one. This rule must be followed if you do not want your walls to warp.

Caulking methods.

Caulking can be done in 2 ways. You should choose the one that suits you best.

• In stretching - the insulating material must be stretched along the fibers and inserted into the slot using a special tool. The gap should be completely filled, but on both sides pieces of tow should be left sticking out by 5 cm. A roller is rolled up from the insulation, wrapped in the remaining ends and stuffed into the gap with a caulk.

• In a set - in this case, from the material wound into a ball, you need to collect loops and seal the gaps with them until they are completely filled. If the spaces between the bars are wide, then this method will suit you better than the previous one.

Particular attention when caulking a log house with your own hands should be given to the corners of the log house. It is inconvenient to work there, so it must be done with special care.

Caulking log house from a bar.

Caulk timber walls should be along the perimeter, starting from the bottom. You can't caulk one wall and leave the rest. After all, the beam rises a little and the walls turn out to be of different heights.

When caulking a wooden log house from a bar, it may be that there is no gap at all and it is impossible to insert a heater there. Look from the other side of the gap, from the outside, there is a wide gap.

Caulking log house made of logs.

From the walls erected with the help of an ordinary or rounded timber, the insulating material is very quickly weathered from the outside. Therefore, it is very important to carry out high-quality caulking at home from rounded timber. But you should not overdo it here either, with excessive clogging of the insulation, you can tear the logs apart. First, they are carried out from the outside, and then inside the log house.

Do-it-yourself caulking of a log house of log walls is carried out first from the outside and only then from inner wall. All the walls of the log house should be caulked, otherwise the walls will be skewed. Material for a log cabin will need more than for a timber frame.

Even, with the subsequent finishing of the external facade of the house, it is necessary to caulk from the outside. This will not only insulate the room, but will not allow moisture to accumulate in the gaps between the walls and rot the logs. So, no matter what finishing material you choose, you cannot do without a caulk of a wooden house.

• Jute insulation.

Jute material for insulation is by far the most common insulation that has successfully replaced the traditional tow. Jute is imported from India and China. According to its characteristics, it surpasses all similar materials and at a lower price. Therefore, the caulk of the log house is jute great option home insulation.

Detailed video of the correct caulking:

Caulking a log house is a job that our ancestors did. It was in this way that they closed the cracks in their wooden houses. Today there are more modern methods of insulation, but caulking is still one of the most popular options for sealing seams and joints between logs. Caulking is made with natural materials that breathe with the wood and do not interfere with the air exchange of the wood. Caulking is a difficult job that requires not only skills and experience, but also great patience. If you want to try your hand, you need to study in detail how to caulk a house from a bar. There are many nuances in this matter, without knowing which a good and high-quality caulking will not work. Therefore, we will dwell in more detail on how to make a caulk.

Caulking is performed several times. For the first time it is carried out immediately after the construction of the house, the second time the log house is caulked a year and a half after construction. During this time, it undergoes a shrinkage process, new cracks and gaps appear between the logs that need to be closed.

All wooden houses are deformed, perhaps only glued timber is an exception. Houses made of profiled timber of natural humidity are especially susceptible to deformation. During the shrinkage period, cracks may appear in the wood itself, which will be removed as a result of caulking. Often, the caulking of a house made of logs and timber is carried out again five to six years after construction.

Primary caulking can be performed at different times:

1. Directly during the construction of a log cabin of a bathhouse or a house. In this case, the insulation is placed between the rows of logs. First, its edges hang evenly on both sides, and then, after the frame is placed under the roof, they are hammered into the interventional seams.
2. Immediately after the construction of the house. The insulation is applied to the seam and, with the help of a tool, is pushed into the gaps between the beams.

Do-it-yourself caulking of a log house begins with the lower crowns. First, the bottom row of logs is caulked around the entire perimeter of the house on both sides, then the second, third, and so on to the end. You can not caulk the house first on one side, and then proceed to the second and subsequent ones. The caulk raises the wall by about 5-10 cm, so if you caulk the bath on one side, the whole house cannot be skewed.

For caulking, only natural materials are used, which:

• hygroscopic,
• immune to temperature fluctuations;
• breathable;
• environmentally friendly;
• similar in properties to wood.

These characteristics are:

• tow;
• jute;
• lnovatin.

Many people ask themselves: how to caulk a house from a bar? All the above materials are suitable for caulking both timber and log houses, there is no difference.

Moss

Considered one of the best materials for a caulk. No wonder our ancestors caulked with moss. Among other things, it has antibacterial properties and protects wood from pests and mold. However, getting this natural insulation today is very problematic. It is difficult to find it in free sale, you can, of course, prepare it yourself, but it is not so easy.

Tow is a waste that has arisen after the primary processing of natural fibers of flax, hemp and jute. Its characteristics entirely depend on the properties of the feedstock. The insulation can be pressed into bales or tied into ribbons. Hard and short fibers are collected in bales, which are not very convenient to work with, the rolled material is softer and more pliable in work.

Tow has slightly pronounced antibacterial properties. However, this insulation strongly absorbs moisture, which in a few years can adversely affect the wood. After laying, it is necessary to impregnate the tow with special impregnations or paint it with bird protection paint.

Jute

Produced from plants growing in China, India, Egypt. Available in the form of ropes, fibers or tapes. The heater is easy to use, durable, due to a large number natural resin, it does not form mold and microorganisms. Even with high humidity the material remains dry.

Lnovatin

It is a needle-punched fabric produced in rolls. The material is completely ready for use and does not require any preparation. The insulation is made from short fibers of highly purified flax. Lnovatin is characterized by high heat-saving qualities, is not subject to decay, does not accumulate moisture in itself.

Caulking technology

There are two main methods of caulking:

1. "Stretch". The material is pushed with a special tool into the gap, tightly filling it with insulation. The rest of the material is wrapped in a roller, which is strongly pushed into the empty space between the logs.
2. "Vnabor". This method closes up wide cracks and gaps. Bundles are twisted from the material, which are then folded into loops. The loops are pushed into the holes between the logs and fill the free space with them.

Regardless of which method is used to caulk, proper caulking always starts from the lowest row of logs. Next, we will consider in detail how to properly caulk a log house.

Caulker "stretched"

Caulk with fibrous insulation

1. Caulking starts from the ends of the bottom row. They take a bunch of moss or tow in their hands and apply it across the fibers to the gap, then press it inward with a caulking blade.
2. The edges of the fibers are folded into a tight roller, applied to the seam and pushed into the cracks with a caulk, while the end is left hanging outside.
3. They take new strands of tow, weave them into the free edge of the roller and repeat the steps in the same sequence. It is necessary to tightly and evenly caulk the entire seam. Therefore, it is very important that the roller is not interrupted and is solid along its entire length.

Caulking with roll material

When using tape heaters, it is much easier to twist the roller. The material is slightly stretched along the seam, which allows you to more evenly distribute the insulation. The material must be applied to the seam across the fibers; with a longitudinal arrangement, it is impossible to achieve the desired density.

1. The tape is unwound from one corner of the log house to the other, without pulling, but leaving it free to lie on the ground.
2. They take the tape by the edge and push the middle of the material into the seams between the logs with a caulk, leaving the edges hanging down by 5-7 cm. The entire seam is filled in this way.
3. After the entire seam is initially filled, the tape can be cut from the roll.
4. Hammer the remaining material into the gaps between the bars. The caulked seam must be of uniform density and thickness and must protrude approximately 4 mm from the grooves.

Caulker "in set"

In this way, as a rule, wide gaps are caulked. In this case, more insulation is required, but the quality of insulation is much higher. For this, tow is used, from which long strands are made and wound into a ball. You can finish the frame with jute cords or hemp ropes, from which balls are also formed.

1. A little cord is unwound and folded into loops, which are alternately pushed into the seam with a caulk.
2. The loops are clogged with caulking, first from above the gap, and then from below.
3. Another strand is superimposed on top, with the help of which the final seal is made, then the strand is leveled with a triangular caulk.

To make the work a little easier and to fill the insulation faster, the process can be mechanized. To do this, the log house is caulked with a perforator, which is used instead of a traditional tool. But during operation, you can’t put much pressure on the puncher, otherwise its blade may get stuck between the logs, and you also need to take a break every 20 minutes. To drive the insulation, you can also use a pneumatic hammer with a compressor.

To give the seams a neat and beautiful look, on top of the caulk, you can finish the log house with a jute rope. Finishing does not insulate the house, but is purely for decorative purposes. How to fasten a rope for finishing a log house? The decorative cord is fastened with galvanized nails without caps, which are hammered into the upper and lower logs in 20 cm increments.

Grinding and painting of the house is carried out after the secondary caulking. How and how to paint a log house can be found in the article: "How to paint the facade of a wooden house."

Caulking corners

The corners are caulked after the main caulking is completed. It is more convenient to do this with the help of a roll insulation.

1. The edge of the tape is applied to the fillet weld and pushed inward with a curved caulk.
2. After fixing the material, tuck its edges and tightly hammer into the slots.
3. During operation, they move from the top seam to the bottom. In order for the material to lay down evenly, it needs to be stretched a little and constantly straightened.

How to check the quality of the log caulking? The tightness of the internal and external seams can be checked with a chisel or other sharp object that should not go through the caulk. The insulation should lie tightly, and the caulked seams should look neat and secure.

Do-It-Yourself Mistakes

It is not easy to make a caulk on your own. Lack of experience and lack of caulking skills lead to the fact that the work is of insufficient quality.

Typical mistakes that inexperienced craftsmen make:

1. Use of low quality insulation.
2. Improper preparation of material for work.
3. Violation of the sequence of work.
4. Caulking of the house on only one side, internal or external.
5. Caulking is not around the perimeter of the building, but along the walls.
6. Loose fit of the insulation and its protrusion from the seams.

Caulking will turn out to be of poor quality even if only one mistake is made. It doesn’t take long to become a specialist caulker. Experience in caulking is acquired over the years, so it is not surprising that inexperienced masters often make mistakes, which then have to be corrected by professionals.

Services of professional caulkers

Entrust the caulking of your home or bath to qualified specialists who will quickly and efficiently perform all the work. Caulkers with ten years of experience work in Master Srubov, who are well aware of all the subtleties and nuances of caulking. We use high-quality and dried natural materials that meet all the requirements. We work under a contract and provide quality assurance. Our experts will make a caulk of any complexity and volume at an affordable cost. Contact us in any convenient way using the coordinates in the section.

Do-it-yourself caulk log house with jute

Caulking of a wooden house is the final stage in the construction of a wooden building, and it is simply impossible to do without it.

Wooden houses have been very popular throughout the ages. For a long time, wood has been one of the most popular building materials. low-rise construction. Today, buildings made of timber have a more outlandish than traditional appearance. Due to its naturalness and naturalness, the use of wood gives a person many advantages. However, the creation of such a building is a rather complicated process, which has many nuances.

Wooden houses may have various forms and design, which involves carrying out a variety of works. At the same time, no matter what method of building a building and the material would not be used, caulking is always necessary condition requiring full compliance. It is no secret to anyone that any building undergoes a shrinkage process after construction. Brick, concrete and, especially, wood can be subjected to serious deformation during operation. This is due various factors, ranging from the specifics of the soil and ending with climatic influences.

In the situation with a bar, one criterion becomes more and we are talking not at all about using the house, but rather about drying out the wood. No matter how dried and whole the material would be, over the course of 5-6 years after being at the heart of the structure, it necessarily undergoes various changes. Under the combined influence of internal and external factors it is able not only to change its shape, but also to significantly deform. As a result, dense and monolithic house becomes less warm, and its surface is covered with a web of cracks.

This state of affairs requires immediate correction, since ignoring it can lead to much more serious consequences in the form of material decay and violation of the integrity of the building. However, timely assistance can once and for all resolve this issue and prevent the destruction of the building.

It consists in carrying out a caulk aimed at correcting the situation and preventing the most unfortunate development of events. Its implementation has many features and can be performed in various ways. However, its purpose remains unchanged and consists in filling the gaps formed as a result of shrinkage of the house with special materials. In doing so, they must meet the following requirements:

• have a low coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• have a plastic structure;
• do not succumb to temperature effects;
• equally well tolerate moisture and dryness;
• not succumb to rotting or insect attack;
• be natural and natural.

Only a clear compliance with these criteria will make it possible to obtain a monolithic surface that can stand still long years. In addition, all these qualities significantly affect the preservation of heat, as a result of which it will become warm and cozy inside the house.

Sealing gaps in a log house

Caulking of wooden houses allows you to eliminate not only all visible surface defects, but also affect its characteristics. Thus, filling the space between the logs significantly increases the thermal insulation of the building and makes it possible to eliminate drafts. The duration of shrinkage depends on many factors and in some cases can reach 7-10 years.

At the same time, correct and quality conduct work can make even an old wooden house a warm and comfortable room. However, not everyone construction material suitable for caulking, because in addition to all the above qualities, it must also have a specific structure, which can be called hygroscopic. To date, everyone necessary requirements only a few materials correspond, the list of which is as follows:

• sphagnum moss;
• linen tow;
• hemp hemp;
• jute;
• linen felt.

These tools have the necessary qualities, and they may well be used to carry out work on the processing of a wooden house. However, it should be remembered that the total cost of caulking can vary significantly when using one or another material, since they all have a different price. In addition, even the same product may differ in its structure, increasing the consumption of material or increasing the time of work.

This state of affairs is due to the fact that natural materials, like moss or tow, do not always have an identical structure and properties, since their characteristics are most dependent on the qualities of the plant. Therefore, at the time of purchase, insulating agents and their characteristics should be carefully checked. This is the only way to be sure of getting a positive result and a full-fledged caulking of the building, which will increase its quality.

Necessary tools and work process

As mentioned above, caulking is a rather laborious, responsible and painstaking process that can take a lot of time. Based on this, the best solution would be to invite specialists who will qualitatively and accurately perform all the work. In addition, this solution will make it possible to reduce the overall construction time and guarantee an optimal result. However, the price of such work can be quite high, which is not always appropriate.

An alternative to calling specialists is the do-it-yourself caulking of a wooden house, which allows not only to make it as comfortable as possible, but also to save a significant part of the materials. However, it should be remembered that this process is of particular importance and is associated with serious responsibility, since the durability of the building and its insulating characteristics will depend to the greatest extent on its results.

• caulk;
• mallet;
• wooden spatula.

Caulking is rightfully considered the main of the listed tools - a tool made in the form of a spatula, pointed at the edges. Its use makes it possible to evenly and efficiently distribute any kind of insulating material, as well as fill cracks and other holes with it. In turn, the rest of the tools are designed to ensure its maximum fixation in those places where the caulk is not able to help.

Caulking a house from a log house involves several stages of work. The first of them is carried out at the time of construction of the structure, the second - after 1-2 years, and the final one - only after 6-7 years. At the same time, during construction, the insulation is laid directly at the junctions of the logs and at their joints, and the second and third treatments involve filling the cracks formed as a result of shrinkage of the house.

As a rule, surface caulking is carried out from top to bottom by evenly distributing insulation over all slots and holes. A feature of this process is the need for a uniform distribution of material around the entire perimeter of the building, since focusing on one wall can lead to the distortion of the entire building. Small gaps are filled with individual threads of tow or moss, and larger holes are best covered with jute thread, which has a denser structure. Full processing of all problem areas will make it possible not only to increase the service life of a wooden house, but also to make it as comfortable and warm as possible.

Caulking, what to caulk and how to do it? Caulking cost?

In the article we will consider the following questions:
— How and what caulk a log house , or rather the gap between the logs of a wooden house.
- Caulking at home, from a log, as well as a log house from a log.

Caulker

Caulker- this is the work of filling and sealing grooves, cracks and gaps between the crowns of the log house and in places of corner cuts with heat-insulating material: tow, dry moss, hemp. This is very labor intensive handmade which requires special skill and endurance from its performers.

In Russia, this work was carried out by masters - caulkers, whose art was passed down from generation to generation. The quality of their work could be fully appreciated in winter, when frosts set in.

Stages of caulking chopped walls.

Unfortunately, a layer of interventional insulation laid during the construction of a log house does not guarantee high-quality thermal insulation.

In addition, during operation, the walls of the house give serious shrinkage, and the thermal insulation properties of the insulation decrease, as a result of which the crowns of the log house appear.

To reduce heat loss and improve sound insulation, wooden ones need to be caulked. Typically, this procedure is caulk at home, execute several times.

The first time you need to caulk a log house immediately after its construction.

Secondarily, the frame is caulked a year or two after its partial shrinkage.

The third time the houses are caulked four to five years after the complete shrinkage of the log house.

And then wooden houses made of logs need to be caulked every two years, and “caulked” annually. However, there are “hard cases” where a house needs to be caulked every year, due to the fact that it was built with large violations of construction technologies and / or from low-quality logs, which resulted in very large gaps into which you can stick your palm

The main stages for caulking chopped walls.

Work on caulking at home must be carried out sequentially around the entire perimeter of the log house, starting from the lowest crown, rising in a circle higher. In this case, special attention must be paid to the sealing of corner joints.

At caulked chopped walls materials are spread with fibers across the groove and driven into the slots so that the fibers protrude from both sides of the log house by at least 4-6 cm. This work is performed using special devices, which are also called "caulks".

During the sealing of the gaps, periodic addition of fiber (insulation material) is allowed until the seams between the surface of the upper and lower logs are completely filled.

When laying fibrous material, it must be remembered that caulking can raise the height of the log house by as much as 15 cm, therefore, starting from the lowest groove, it is important to do this work around the perimeter of the entire log house (and not a single wall), otherwise caulking one individual wall can lead to skew the entire log house.

In the photo below - a modern version of the "caulk" - using high-tech wood sealant, but more on that a little later.

Types of caulking chopped walls.

There are two types of sealing and insulation of the walls of the log house - "in a set" and "in a stretch":

• Caulking at home "in a stretch" is used in grooves and crevices. Having made a strand of tow, put it against the slot (groove) and drive it in with a special spatula. This operation is repeated until the entire groove is filled. The stacked tow is carefully compacted. Then they make a roller out of tow, insert it into the groove and, grabbing the fibers protruding from there (otherwise it may fall out), drive it in with force.

• In wide grooves and crevices, the log house is caulked “in a set” - strands are twisted from tow or hemp and wound into a ball. Then loops are “gained” from the ball and hammered into the groove. The width of the strands depends on the depth and width of the groove between the logs.

Advantages and disadvantages of caulking.

Definitely a caulk wooden walls is an in a good way insulation. First of all, it is worth noting the environmental friendliness of traditionally used materials: tow, moss, hemp.

However, caulk also has its drawbacks.

First of all, given the laboriousness of its implementation, caulking is a rather laborious and expensive pleasure. At the same time, it should be understood that in order to achieve maximum efficiency, the log house must be qualitatively caulked more than once, during its operation. It is not difficult to calculate the amount of financial costs for this work.

Caulked seams do not look very aesthetically pleasing and often require additional ropes from natural materials(see photo on the left) or other materials, which naturally entails additional costs.

It should also be mentioned that birds, our feathered friends, are very fond of pulling and pulling tow and moss from the seams between the log crowns. At the same time, this pulling apart takes on rampant proportions in the spring.

In addition, no matter how wonderful this natural material is, but under the influence of the weight of the log, moisture, the sun, it is crushed, and on next year, usually in the spring (or early summer), just falls out of the cracks. And again, it is required to make a partial or complete caulking of the entire wooden house or bath.

That is, the caulk of a log house of a wooden house must be produced annually, or at least once every two years!

And do not forget, before using the moss collected in the swamp, it must be dried! When drying, the moss loses part of its volume, so it needs to be harvested with some margin.

The caulking of a wooden house or log house must be done simultaneously from 4 sides, (as if by encircling rings), which will avoid the distortion of the entire log house. Having done this work outside the house, continue caulk a log house from within.

The cost of caulking

Professional seaming service and using this modern material meets your expectations - DONE AND FORGET!

In the section you will find examples (photos) on the insulation of houses and baths.

Drafts and dampness will disappear forever in your house.

Watch the video - caulk of a wooden house, how much work it costs to spend on one meter of the wall!
Look and answer this question: Are you ready to do this, and maybe more than once?