If the rhododendron dropped its leaves after winter. Rhododendron: seasonal care. Rhododendron diseases caused by external factors
Life cycle Azaleas are strongly tied to the seasons. Early varieties bloom from December to April, mid-late - from January to March, late - from February to April. You can find out more about how many times a year and when the azalea blooms. And after the end of flowering, the question arises: what to do next at home? First you need to decide what can be considered the end of flowering? A sign of the end of flowering is the drying and shedding of flowers. Some varieties also shed their leaves.
Important! If the variety does not allow leaf shedding, and this does happen, this is a cause for concern. Perhaps your pet is sick.
Step-by-step instructions: what to do next when the rhododendron fades?
At the end of flowering, the azalea must be pruned. This is necessary in order to ensure her subsequent flowering. When pruning, young shoots should be removed, overgrown branches should be cut so that three or four leaves remain on it. If the azalea has grown and can be thinned out. If desired, you can form a crown of any shape.
What to do with faded flowers? If dry flowers remain on the plant, then they should also be cut off along with the peduncles. And cut off the branches. Pruning is done carefully so as not to injure the plant. This procedure is carried out with a sterile pruner around March or April, after flowering has ended.
Pruning is needed for:
- Bush formation.
- Future flowering.
- Beautiful appearance.
- Formation of a lush crown in the future.
After pruning, the azalea should be placed in a dark and cool place for about 2 months. Thus, you will provide her with a period of rest. During this time, the plant will be able to rest and recuperate.
Also, after flowering, pinching is very important, that is, removing the growth point of a young shoot. Pinching is best done 3 times a year. Thanks to her, the crown of the plant will look beautiful and magnificent, and it will also contribute to budding. Pruning and pinching are very important for future flowering, its intensity depends on it.
Attention! Before pruning, the secateurs must be disinfected to avoid infection on the plant. The cut points should be disinfected with a special paste.
Watch the video on the topic "Should I prune the azalea after flowering?":
Temperature, humidity, lighting
Azalea is very capricious about air temperature. After flowering, and this is usually in the spring, she needs to provide a cool temperature. Optimum temperature 12 - 16 degrees. At the same time, it is imperative to maintain high humidity. Ideally, the humidity should reach 70%. To do this, you can use a humidifier, as well as regularly spray the plant. After flowering, the azalea is better to put a dark place. It is quite suitable for a shaded room or another place with minimal lighting.
The water should be cool, but not icy. The optimum temperature is 16-17 degrees. Fertilize the azalea after flowering (in spring) should be at least once a week. For this, fertilizers designed specifically for azalea are used:
- Ammonium sulfate.
- Superphosphate.
- potassium sulfide.
After flowering, you need to use a fertilizer containing nitrogen, for example, "Uniflor - micro". This fertilizer helps:
- Vegetation.
- active growth.
- Recovery.
Important! It is highly undesirable to use fertilizers containing chlorine!
Watch the video on the topic “Proper watering of azaleas so that they do not shed their leaves”:
The period after flowering is most favorable for transplantation. Since in this case the load on the plant will be minimal. He will have time and opportunity to recuperate. First you need to choose the soil. You can cook it yourself, but it is best to buy it in a store.
If you decide to prepare the soil yourself, for this you need:
- One piece of leaf land.
- Two parts of coniferous land.
- One piece of heather land.
- One piece of peat land.
All this should be mixed in a container, then add river sand as a baking powder. You need to put drainage in the pot. After the soil and pot are prepared, the plant must be removed from the old pot and placed in a container of water for about 30 minutes.
About 1/3 of the soil should be washed off the roots. Then you need to inspect the roots. If you find rotten, diseased, dark roots, they should be removed with a sterile instrument. Then the plant is lowered into the prepared pot and covered with fresh soil. In no case should you fall asleep the root neck.
After transplanting, the flower should be watered with a solution for root growth. After transplantation, the azalea is not fed for two months in order not to burn the roots and not increase the load on the root system.
Watch the video on the topic "How to transplant an azalea":
Possible errors and their consequences
When caring for an azalea, mistakes cannot be avoided.
It could be:
- Unsuitable soil. The plant will not receive the necessary substances.
- Not a sterile instrument. May lead to infection of azalea with pathogenic flora.
- Root damage. Deadly and should be avoided as much as possible.
- No cutting or pinching. Affects appearance azaleas, but is not dangerous.
- Insufficient air humidity. May dry out and cause some diseases.
- Top dressing and stimulation immediately after flowering. May cause root damage and death.
- Watering with unsuitable water. This is fraught with infections.
- Overfeeding or complete lack of feeding. Both can kill the azalea.
Each of these errors can lead to serious plant disease or even death.
Also, improper care, pests and other reasons can contribute to the fact that the plant does not bloom. You can find out more about why the azalea does not bloom. 
When caring for an azalea, the main thing is not to overdo it. It should be remembered that this is a load. So you need to provide the plant with maximum peace and the opportunity to recover. In no case should you feed and stimulate growth immediately after flowering! Darkness, coolness, moisture - these are the main friends of the azalea after flowering.
If you find an error, please highlight a piece of text and click Ctrl+Enter.
Improper substrate preparation and chlorosis
The most common mistake when planting rhododendrons is inappropriate soil acidity, high salt content in the soil, insufficient or excessive soil moisture. If the acidity of the soil does not meet the requirements of the plant, chlorosis appears. In an alkaline and even neutral substrate, iron and magnesium, which play an important role in the formation of chlorophyll, are in a form that is not absorbed by rhododendrons. This leads to growth retardation and disease. An improperly selected substrate will eventually lead to the death of the plant. Chlorosis usually occurs when the pH of the substrate is above 7.
Symptoms: in plants affected by chlorosis, the leaf blade between the conducting veins becomes light green or yellowish green. In the initial stage of the lesion, the veins still retain a dark green color, later they also turn yellow. With severe chlorosis, all young shoots turn yellow or pale yellow and are easily burned in the sun. To eliminate chlorosis, the pH of the medium should be brought to 4.0-5.0. Iron chelates are also recommended.
Insufficient or excessively high humidity of air or soil
Lack or excess of light
With a lack of light, the shoots stretch out, the decorative effect decreases, the plants stop blooming. With an excess of light, there is a risk of sunburn, diseases and pests.
sunburn
Usually this disease occurs in the spring after severe frosts or at the end of winter with sharp fluctuations in temperature day and night. Most often, burns appear when the temperature drops to -15 ° C or more at night, and during the day in the bright sun the surface of the leaves heats up significantly and begins to actively evaporate water.
Symptoms: leaves appear brown, dry, irregular spots.
To avoid sunburn, rhododendrons should be planted in semi-shaded places. If the plants are planted in an open area, artificial shading is required in winter. Sometimes sunburn does not appear as spots, but as a brown strip along the main vein of the leaf. During severe frosts, flower buds of rhododendrons may also suffer. In this case, they turn brown and dry out.
Winter drying of rhododendrons
nitrogen starvation
With a lack of nitrogen, the entire leaf blade of rhododendrons becomes light. New shoots grow weakly, small leaves develop on them, flower buds are not laid. In the middle of summer, or in August, the leaves of previous years begin to turn very yellow, then they turn reddish-brown and most of them fall off. By the end of summer, only the leaves of the current year remain on the plants, although with normal conditions growth and nutrition on an evergreen plant leaves remain for four years. These signs indicate that the plants are starving, and, in particular, they feel an acute lack of nitrogen. Most often, the disease manifests itself in rhododendrons grown on light sandy soils. If rhododendrons are regularly fed annually, then they will not have nitrogen starvation. When the first signs of nitrogen starvation appear, nitrogen supplementation (ammonium sulphate or potassium nitrate) should be introduced.
Wetting rhododendrons
The leaf blade becomes grayish-green, matte. Leaves fall off for no apparent external reason. New shoots become soft, the leaves wither, the root ball collapses, although the roots at the root neck are not damaged. These signs indicate that the aeration of the root system is clearly insufficient. Wetting of rhododendrons is usually observed if they are grown on heavy, clay soils with poor drainage, and also if after transplantation they are abundantly and often watered. To avoid wetting rhododendrons, they should be planted in a specially prepared water and breathable substrate in a well-drained area. Watering during the entire growing season should not be excessive.
snowball
Under a high snow load, the branches of rhododendrons can break. Particularly susceptible to such damage are evergreen varieties and views. During and after sleet, tall plants should be shaken off. Some authors recommend the construction of winter shelters.
I transplanted it into partial shade, but new leaves do not grow, the buds dry up ... It can be seen that the bush is alive. Already fed in the spring. The soil is moist, I often spray ... What should I do? I want to save the bush! Help with advice please!...) 
Properly planted rhododendrons take root well. If the soil substrate was made with high quality, they will not require special care.
In hot and dry summer and even autumn months, it is necessary to ensure that the soil under the bushes does not dry out. However, do not get carried away - excessive watering is harmful to them.
Since in the mountains these plants live in conditions high humidity air, then, as a rule, they respond very well to spraying the entire bush with leaves and flowers. Naturally, this should not be done under the scorching sun and not ice water.
It is best to water with rain or river water. Water from an artesian well or water supply contains a lot of calcium and magnesium salts - in this case, the soil will begin to alkalize and saline, and the rhododendrons will lose their decorative effect. (At first, nothing seems to happen, but after 2–4 years, hard water will do its job.)
So that the soil substrate does not alkalize, water for irrigation must be acidified - best of all with sulfuric acid. It is difficult to specify the exact concentration of acid - it depends on the degree of hardness of the water. The easiest way is to use litmus indicator paper. The pH of the water should be 3.5–4.5.
Withered inflorescences, which reduce the decorative effect of the plant, must be broken off or carefully cut off, keeping the axillary buds at the top leaves. This contributes to the abundant growth and flowering of rhododendrons in next year.
In the spring, after 1-2 years, they add a bucket of rotted manure and peat or compost and peat to the soil in the near-trunk circle and close up to a shallow depth. In addition, dry mineral fertilizers are applied: 1 tablespoon of ammonium sulfate, superphosphate, potassium sulfate. All fertilizers are mixed with bedding.
root system in rhododendrons, it is shallow, compact, so loosening must be carried out very carefully, without digging up the trunk circles. Mulching is recommended to protect the soil from drying out. trunk circles a layer of crushed peat or tree bark or coniferous litter, which has an acidic reaction.
most likely you fed him too early, or poured fertilizer (you need to transplant!
there was not a high-quality shelter and was struck by a fungus.
Processing "iron chelate" with a weak solution or its substitutes.
Needles were collected in the forest and sprinkled around it, embedding it in the soil. and fell asleep on top. Provide watering and wait for the buds to start growing. After they start moving in a week, start feeding 1 time per week. and process with that device once a month
I had four bushes of rhodendrons, for two years it was normal, BUT! Then the first died, the next year the second, now the third, and after wintering the twigs were a little alive, and yet he died. The last one left, half dead. I dug it up, removed the dry roots and planted it in bare peat, after a week I acidified the soil with citric acid. Seems to be holding up for now, we'll see what happens. Now I am analyzing my mistakes, I think that they died because of the soil: it was not acidic enough. So you try to acidify the soil for him, until he completely disappeared.
Rhododendrons are in many ways special shrubs, not like most of the cultures we are used to. They need a special place in the garden, special soil. And even special agricultural practices. For example, soil mulching is a must, loosening is by no means!
Pruning in this row is an exception, here the rhododendrons appear in the general ranks.
With pruning, they have everything like the others, well, or almost everything. There are, as usual, three types of pruning: sanitary, shaping, rejuvenating.
Sanitary pruning of rhododendrons
It is carried out according to the results of wintering in early spring. We remove the broken branches, carefully cutting the shoot below the fault. Small breaks can be pulled together with an elastic bandage, fix this place and substitute a prop under the bruised branch to neutralize its weight (photo 1). If the branch has broken less than half its thickness, there is a good chance that the break will heal. We leave the support under the shoot for a couple of years.
Frozen shoots are cut out to healthy tissue. In deciduous rhododendrons, in winters with sudden changes in temperature, the bark often cracks. We cut out such shoots to the living. Sometimes it is difficult to distinguish a frozen shoot of an evergreen rhododendron from a living one.
stem, in which only the leaves were damaged (“burnt”, but actually dried out under the action of the early spring sun and wind). If in doubt, postpone pruning for a while. Soon it will be absolutely clear whether the escape is alive or not. The leaves of a frozen shoot are dry, dull, and fall off easily. “Burned” leaves on a live branch do not fall off by themselves; at the base of their petioles, buds may already be visible, from which new leaves will bloom. So, in photo 2, only a few shoots in the upper left part of the crown have completely lost the rhododendron, the rest will successfully grow.
Small-leaved evergreen rhododendrons are distinguished by the fact that even a shoot that has completely lost its “burnt” leaves can again completely dress in foliage. Do not rush and cut varieties from this group, unless the affected plant is sitting in plain sight and does not spoil everyone's mood with its condition.
Starting pruning of rhododendrons
As a rule, we buy evergreen rhododendrons in the form of a bush with a beautiful, evenly developed, harmonious crown. Deciduous rhododendron varieties (deciduous azaleas) often don't look as good. They have one or not
how many long, bare and relatively thick shoots with inflorescences at the top and a few short and thin branches. It is better to cut such specimens immediately, trying to give the crown a more or less symmetrical shape (photo 3, 4). Already in the middle of summer, the bush will be much more branched (photo 5), and in the fall you will see that a well-rooted rhododendron has quite successfully laid flower buds over the entire surface of the crown. Thus, we lose in the height of the bush, but win in its shape and quality of future flowering. And such a bush will quickly gain height.
Formative pruning and pinching of rhododendrons
This type of pruning is done either in early spring or closer to the flowering time of the rhododendron, i.e. outside the stage of active sap flow. We cut off unsuccessfully located branches, shorten those that weakly or do not give lateral shoots at all, i.e. naked (photo 6). As a rule, formative pruning is easily possible on bushes of deciduous rhododendrons. Many semi-evergreens (such as the Ledebourg rhododendron and the entire PJM series) respond well to pruning, responding with dense branching and a compact crown shape. With evergreen rhododendrons, it is easy to reduce or narrow the crown, cutting into a well-located branch.
A convenient technique is pinching the shoots of deciduous rhododendrons (photo 7, 8). Thus, we shorten a shoot that is too long and encourage it to branch, achieving a beautiful, evenly developed crown shape. The lateral shoots that appear as a result of pinching have time to lay flower buds.
Anti-aging pruning of rhododendrons
Anti-aging pruning, as well as any other, works well on young rhododendrons. After radical pruning, they grow back easily. Another thing is that young people do not need it. If you are a determined person, then do not be afraid to cut the old bush into a stump, i.e. shorten all shoots to 20-30 cm. The timing for anti-aging pruning is the same - early spring or immediately after flowering. But not all old specimens will easily endure such pruning.
An alternative to planting a bush on a stump with stems bare from below, rare branching, weak flowering and other signs of aging is to replace it. Yes, sometimes it is more rational to replace a bush that has lost its decorative effect, rather than to seek a return of beauty from it with the help of pruning. This is especially true in relation to tall varieties of evergreen rhododendrons.
Evergreen rhododendrons with more dense branching and a cushion-shaped growth can often be rejuvenated with pruning. It is performed gradually, shortening up to 15-20 cm by several shoots per season. If successful, buds wake up on old wood and strong young shoots appear (photo 9).
Deciduous rhododendrons, as a rule, can be rejuvenated by pruning. In this case, a radical landing on a stump is rarely required, often it is enough to simply reduce the crown by a third or half. In photo 10, a Japanese rhododendron bush, which is over 35 years old.
It can be seen that the middle of the bush is bare, besides, he went over in diameter, and the shoots fit on the path. Spring pruning led to the result in photo 11: the crown is now dense and uniform. A few too long shoots in the middle of the bush will be shortened again next season.
We cut with a sharp secateurs, cleanly, without squeezing. The place on the stem where the kidney wakes up can only be found with some practice. But the road will be mastered by the walking one! So we cut without fear. All sections that are thicker than a pencil are covered with balm varnish. After pruning, we feed the rhododendron, regularly water it well, soaking the soil to the depth of the roots.
Pruning rhododendron - photo for the article
800 W 30000 rpm Woodworking Electric Trimmer Wood Milling Engraving…
835.96 rub.
Free shipping★★ ★★ ★★ ★★ ★★ (4.70) | Orders (40)
Quite a lot has been written about rhododendrons at the present time, but, oddly enough, there are no fewer questions related to their cultivation.
Rhododendron is one of the most beautiful flowering shrubs in our gardens and parks. This family is very ancient. His ancestors appeared on earth about 50 million years. Currently, the genus includes more than 1000 species, on the basis of which about 12,000 varieties with a wide variety of qualities have been obtained.
Translated from Greek, "rhododendron" means rosewood. Plants of this species belong to the extensive heather family. Among the rhododendrons there are trees up to 20 m tall, however, shrubs from 0.3 to 3 m predominate.
These flowering shrubs began to be cultivated in the 15th century, the bulk of hybrids and varieties appeared in the 20th century. Rhododendrons differ not only in the variety of flower colors, but also in the size, shape of the bush, there are evergreen and deciduous. In autumn, deciduous shrubs delight with the brightest colors of foliage: from yellow, orange to fiery red and purple.
The rhododendron is especially effective during flowering, which occurs before or after the leaves bloom, sometimes simultaneously with it. In the middle lane flowering various kinds and varieties continues from May to July.
The homeland of most of the known species of rhododendrons (over 700) is East Asia - areas of large rivers originating in Tibet and heading south through the western provinces of China (Sichuan and Yunnan). From here, the distribution area of rhododendrons extends west to Kashmir, north and east through Korea, and Japan to Kamchatka, the East Siberian and Okhotsk Seas, south to New Guinea (300 species) and northern Australia. As you move north from China, the number of species of rhododendrons decreases. In the tundra of Eastern Siberia, in Kamchatka, the Kamchatka rhododendron is found, and the Arctic regions of Scandinavia, Greenland and Alaska are the boundary of the growth of rhododendrons. Only one winter-hardy species grows here - the Lapland rhododendron. Only 10 species of rhododendrons are found in Europe. AT North America 29 species of rhododendrons, growing mainly along the coast of the Pacific and Atlantic oceans. Rhododendrons are not found in South America and Africa.
Based on data on the occurrence of wild species in nature, German dendrologists I. Berg and L. Heft propose to identify the main areas of distribution of rhododendrons:
1. Himalayas, Western and Central China.
2. Coastal regions of China.
3. Northeast Asia.
4. Japan.
5. Malay Archipelago.
6. Europe.
7. North America.
Most species grow in mountainous and coastal areas adjacent to the oceans, seas and rivers and are characterized by increased rainfall and humid air. Soil conditions play an equally important role for the normal development of rhododendrons, which require a loose, humus-rich, water- and breathable substrate. For most types of rhododendrons, the soil ph is 4.5-5.5, but 4.7 is optimal. Obviously, the need for acidic soils is explained by the formation of mycorrhiza, the development of which requires an acidic reaction of the environment. With regard to light conditions, it should be noted that rhododendrons naturally grow both in open, lit areas and in shading in the undergrowth. Various light requirements expand the possibilities of their practical application in landscaping. For the successful introduction of wild species of rhododendrons into the culture, it is necessary to know their geographical distribution and requirements for environmental conditions.
Rhododendrons look very impressive in single and group plantings, they are widely used as components in compositions with coniferous trees and shrubs. Undersized species are planted on alpine slides, rockeries and gravel gardens. Medium-sized rhododendrons can be planted on the edge, a hedge along the path. For planting on the lawn, medium-sized shrubs and groups of them, as well as tall species with a beautiful crown, are suitable. Rhododendrons look good with various ferns, ground cover plants, with small bulbous plants.
Rhododendrons in natural conditions very often grow in the mountains. Sometimes they occupy such vast territories that during flowering it seems that a fire is blazing around! But a rare opportunity to look with one eye at such a miracle. In the photographs, thickets of Japanese rhododendron (Rhododendron japonicum (Gray) Suring.), These photos were taken in his homeland in Japan. 
Below are descriptions of fairly winter-hardy species and varieties of rhododendron that can be recommended for cultivation in central Russia:
semi-evergreen species.
Rhododendron Ledebour (Rh. ledebourii). Blooms in April-May. The flowers are pinkish-lilac, the height of the bush is 0.5-1.8 m. In winter, the leaves remain on the bushes and fall off in the spring with the beginning of shoot growth.
Evergreen species.
R. ketevbinsky (Rh. catawbiense). Blooms in late May-June. The flowers are lilac-purple, the height of the bush is up to 1.5 m.
R. Smirnova (Rh. smirnowii). Blooms in May-June. The flowers are pink, the height of the bush is up to 1.0 m.
R. short-fruited (Rh. brachycarpum). Blooms in June-July. The flowers are white or slightly pinkish, the height of the bush is up to 1.0 m.
R. largest (Rh. maximum). Blooms in June-July. The flowers are white or pink, the height of the bush is about 1.0 m.
R. golden (Rh. asheitis). Blooms in May-June. The flowers are light yellow or golden, the height of the bush is up to 0.3 m.
R. blushing (Rhododendron russatum)
Evergreen cushion shrub, up to 1 m high, crown diameter up to 0.8 m. It grows slowly. The leaves are small, lanceolate, up to 3 cm long, dark green above, reddish-brown below, densely scaly. Blooms from late April to May for 25 days. The flowers are dark purple with a white throat, diameter up to 2.5 cm, odorless, collected in 4 - 5 pieces. Photophilous. Prefers acidic, moist, well-drained soils. Completely winter hardy. One of the most beautiful abundantly and annually blooming ornamental shrubs. Used in rock gardens.
R. small (Rhododendron minus)
Evergreen rounded shrub with a dense crown, up to 1 m high, up to 1.5 m wide. The leaves are dark green, elliptical, leathery, shiny, 4-10 cm long. Flowers 2.5-3 cm in diameter are pale pink or carmine pink , collected in inflorescences of 10-15 pieces, blooms in June, Prefers slightly acidic, rich soils and a bright location. It is frost-resistant, it is recommended to cover young plants for the winter
R. dense (Rhododendron impeditum)
Evergreen, very dense, low cushion shrub, in nature and culture from 0.1 to 0.7 m tall. Shoots are short, densely covered with black scales. The leaves are small, broadly elliptical, 1.5-2.0 cm long, up to 1 cm wide, scaly on both sides. The flowers are small, violet-blue, 2.0-2.5 cm in diameter. Blossoms in May - June, often again in August - September. One of the most valuable small-leaved and small-flowered evergreen species of rhododendron. Grows best in rich, fresh or moist soils. Photophilous, but tolerates slight shading. Mature plants hibernate under the snow, are quite winter-hardy, bloom profusely every year.
Single or group plantings are recommended for low rocky areas and alpine hills, curtains on lawns, in borders.
R. rusty (Rhododendron ferrugineum)
Slow growing low, cushion shrub. Height 0.7 m, crown diameter up to 1 m. The bark is grayish-brown. The leaves are leathery, ovate, 3-4 cm long, up to 1.5 cm wide. Dark green above, shiny, below with rusty scaly glands. Flowering continues from late May to late June (30 days). The flowers are pink-red, rarely white, up to 2 cm in diameter, collected in inflorescences of 6-10 pieces.
Photophilous. Transfers calcareous soils, but covered with a powerful humus layer, better acidic (pH 4.5). Quite winter hardy. Alpine slides, single and group plantings on the lawn with the participation of rusty rhododendron will decorate any garden.
R. carolinian (Rhododendron carolinianum)
Evergreen shrub 1 - 1.5 m high. The crown is wide-round. The bark is light brown. The leaves are elliptical, dark green, b-10 cm long, 3-4 cm wide, glabrous above, densely covered with scales below. Blooms in May - June for about 3 weeks. The flowers are white or pink, about 3 cm in diameter, 4-9 per inflorescence, funnel-shaped, with a yellowish spot. It grows slowly, the annual growth is about 5 cm. Light-requiring. Soils prefer slightly acidic, light, moist. Winter-hardy (up to -30 0C). In gardens planted in groups and singly on rocky areas.
R. Daurian (Rhododendron dauricum)
Deciduous or semi-evergreen, strongly branched shrub up to 2m. height. The leaves are small elliptical, densely covered with glands. The flowers are pink in various shades, rarely white up to 4 cm in diameter. Blooms from late April to May before the leaves open. The undoubted advantage of the species is its high winter hardiness (up to -32 0C), but it can suffer from late spring frosts during flowering. Recommended for growing on the edges and in small groups under the canopy of light coniferous species, such as larch.
R. yakushimansky (Rhododendron yakushimanum)
Slow-growing compact, spherical shrub, 0.5-1 m high, crown diameter up to 1.5 m. The leaves are elongated, 5-10 cm long, 3-4 cm wide, leathery, dark green above, bottom with a dense dark brown felt pubescence. Flowering is abundant and long: from May to early June. The flowers are pale pink at first, later white, up to 6 cm in diameter, collected in b - 12 pieces.
Photophilous. Soils prefer fresh, peaty, rich in humus, slightly acidic or acidic. Winter-hardy, withstands winter frosts up to -22/26 0C depending on the variety, but at a young age it is better to cover the plants. Recommended for rock gardens, group plantings in rocky gardens.
Deciduous species.
R. Japanese (Rh. japonicum). Blooms in late May-June. The flowers are salmon-red, the height of the bush is 1.0-1.5 m. There is a form with yellow flowers.
R. yellow (Rh. luteum). Deciduous branched shrub, 1-2 m tall, growing strongly and reaching a width of 2 meters. The flowers are small, very fragrant, yellow or golden-orange, collected in inflorescences of 7-12 pieces, bloom before the leaves appear or simultaneously with them, in May - June. The leaves are oblong-elliptical and oblong-lanceolate, finely serrate and ciliate along the edge, covered on both sides with scattered adpressed glandular bristly hairs. In autumn, the leaves have a beautiful color: yellow, orange, red. It grows relatively quickly, is frost-resistant, requires moist, humus-rich soils, and does not tolerate dry air. Gives abundant root shoots. The large intraspecific variability of this plant attracts the attention of breeders. Most modern varieties of deciduous azaleas come from the Pontic azalea.
R. Canadian (Rh. canadense). Blooms in May. The flowers are purple-violet, the height of the bush is 0.5-0.8 m. There is a form with white flowers!
R. Schlippenbach (Rh. schlippenbachii). Blooms in May. The flowers are white or pinkish, the height of the bush is 1.0-1.2m
R. Vasey (Rh. vaseyi). Blooms in May. The flowers are white pinkish, the height of the bush is 1.2 m.
R. Kamchatka (Rh. camtschaticum). Dwarf bushy shrub, slow growing. The maximum height in culture is 20-30 cm, width - 30-50 cm. The shoots are rough, strongly glandular-hairy at a young age. The leaves are obovate, up to 2.2 cm long, fresh green, red or yellow in autumn. Very beautiful at the time of flowering - from June - July to autumn. The flowers are dark pink or crimson-purple, 2.5-5 cm in diameter, with dark speckles, solitary or collected in inflorescences of 3-5 pcs. Frost-resistant species (up to -30 0С), undemanding to soils. Recommended for rock gardens, small gardens, ideal in compositions with heather. It is better to plant in sunny places, the soil prefers well-drained, poor, loose, with a neutral reaction.
R. pukkhansky (Rh. khanense). Blooms in May-June. The flowers are pale lilac-purple, the height of the bush is 0.8 m. Young plants require shelter for the winter.
