Ph.D., Art. scientific collaborator Federal Science Center on horticulture named after I.V. Michurina, Scientific Secretary of the Academy of Non-traditional and Rare Plants, member of the All-Russian Society of Geneticists and Breeders of the Russian Federation

Pruning flowering shrubs is one of the necessary and very important parts of caring for them. But you should know that shrubs that bloom in spring should be pruned strictly after they have finished flowering, only in this way we will allow new shoots to form, and not harm flowering if pruning shrubs in early spring, even before bud break.

Shrubs such as forsythia, three-lobed almonds, weigela, mock orange, deutsia, many spireas (although there are also summer-flowering species), viburnum Buldenezh ( Snowball), kerria, as well as lilac, holly mahonia, rhododendrons and tree peonies. All these plants form shoots by autumn and lay flower buds on them. If they are cut before flowering, then we will remove these buds along with the shoots, and flowering will be significantly weaker or may be absent altogether. Of course, you should not completely ignore these plants in early spring if they need a little sanitary pruning, that is, the removal of dry shoots, broken or those that grow deep into the crown, thickening it greatly, and the plant does not need it at all - such shoots must be removed . The main pruning should be carried out only after flowering, and for some breeds it has its own characteristics.

For example, pruning forsythia should begin with thinning the bush, that is, remove all old shoots, cutting them as close to the soil surface as possible. Sometimes you can see that such shoots have many lateral growths closer to the soil surface, in this case it is appropriate to cut off part of the shoot right above the young growths. All shoots that had flowers should be shortened by a third of the forsythia with the end of flowering.

Three-lobed almonds (three-lobed louiseania), are prone to strong thickening, in view of this, the shrub must be cut off necessarily and annually. Terry varieties thicken especially strongly. You can start pruning this plant immediately after flowering is completed. From each shoot, you can leave only a small part that has two pairs of buds. You should not be afraid, before the end of the warm season, young shoots will grow from the sinuses. Ideally, the shrub should be formed in such a way that the branches that make up it are not older than five years. Of course, you should pay attention to the shoots that grow deep into the crown - they also need to be removed. Many gardeners give the shrub a rounded shape, cutting out all the shoots that stand out from this shape - this is very beautiful. In autumn, one more pruning can be done - by removing or simply pinching off parts of the shoots that have not had time to lignify. If this is not done, then in winter they will freeze. AT summer time after pruning, it is very desirable to feed the shrub with nitrophoska, dissolving 25-35 g of fertilizer in a bucket of water and pouring this volume under the bush. In the fall, you can do another top dressing, but this time add potassium monophosphate, 10-15 g for each bush.

Holly mahonia - many grow it without pruning at all, but this is not true, shrubs need pruning, it will make the bushes as beautiful and non-collapsing as possible, and will not allow the base of the bush to be exposed, which is often observed. All shoots can be cut off by 50% or by a third if they are not very old. Pruning can be carried out immediately after flowering and in the autumn, when only growths that do not have flower buds can be removed.

In May or June, flowering can be observed in Van Gutt spirea, Nippon spirea, oak-leaved spirea, sharp-toothed spirea, middle spirea and gray spirea. In these species, flower buds are formed along the entire length of the increments of the past season. To reduce the volume of the plant and give it compactness and accuracy, it is necessary to shorten the shoots to the youngest branch. Such pruning will stimulate the abundant growth of young shoots. Old shoots that do not have good growth can be removed completely, then young shoots will form more actively.

Weigela - it is best to cut it at the end of June, while the plant has not had time to form young shoots. Immediately after flowering, the shoots on which there were flowers must be cut down to the first vertical growths, which are most often located at the base of the bush. Shoots that are old and do not have vertical growths are removed completely. If the pruning is strongly tightened, and the plant has already formed growths, then it is better not to do it at all, because you can easily cut off all the flower buds.

Mock orange is also pruned in the summer, after flowering, cutting out all shoots older than two years. If such pruning is not done, then the lower part of the bush will be very bare and flowers will form in small quantities and only on young growths. All other shoots of the mock orange should be shortened by about a third in order to activate branching. It has been noticed that the sooner the mock orange is cut after flowering, the more young growths will be, which by the autumn will have time to become woody and will be able to survive the winter.

Action - it must be cut off every year after flowering. After pruning or before it, the bushes need to be fed with nitrophosphate, adding this fertilizer in the form dissolved in water, 15-20 g for each plant. All shoots that had flowers should be shortened to the very first young growth of the action. And if it is not on the shoot, then cut them off at the surface of the soil. If the bush has not been cut for a long time, it should be thinned out as much as possible, leaving only shoots no older than 5 years of age. Old shoots can be removed completely or only parts about 20 cm long with lateral branches can be left from them.

Kerria - at the end of flowering, this plant needs to shorten the shoots by a third, and cut the branches older than four years completely. Such pruning will stimulate the formation of young shoots, on which flowers can form again this autumn.

Viburnum vulgaris Buldenezh finishes blooming early, usually already at the end of May, less often later. Therefore, already in early June, you can start pruning - adjust the shape of the bush, thin it out by removing all the shoots that thicken the crown. Pruning of the viburnum Buldenezh should be carried out before August, if it is done later, then the young shoots will not become woody and may freeze out in winter.

In the fall, after harvesting and completing the main work, life on the plots does not stop - the next stage begins for gardeners. It's time to prepare trees and shrubs for wintering and the upcoming season. A number of activities need to be carried out. These are top dressing, and shelter of plants, and pruning. It is pruning and shaping that will allow ornamental and fruit shrubs to overwinter, and in the spring they will provide them with a lush, beautiful, healthy crown. The procedure is performed after the sap flow time is over, the cultures will get rid of the foliage, but before the onset of frost (the temperature at night should not fall below -5 degrees).

Types of shrub pruning

Based on the purpose, pruning is divided into the following groups:

1. 1. Sanitary.
2. 2. Formative.
3. 3. Anti-aging.

Each has its own characteristics, rules and nuances.

Sanitary - for the prevention of diseases

Autumn sanitary pruning is shown to absolutely all shrubs and trees, fruit and ornamental. The purpose of this event is to prevent the development of the course of all infectious processes, the prevention of putrefactive formations, getting rid of old, damaged, broken and dry dead branches. After this procedure, the bushes are better ventilated. The branches turned inside the plant are completely removed, the unripe ones are cut at a distance of about 3 cm from the bud.

Shaping - for a beautiful appearance

Formative pruning in late autumn is practiced only for shrubs that bloom in summer period. If you do this in the spring, then a beautiful decorative form and full flowering will not work. Such plants bloom on last year's successfully overwintered branches. These include:

• Japanese quince;
• forsythia;
• mock orange;
• weigela;
• viburnum vesicle;
• lilac;
• action;
• spirea;
• three-lobed and steppe almonds.

Formative pruning allows you to make a decorative shrub out of a simple shrub. To do this, every year, in addition to the main branches, 2-3 new, strongest shoots are left.

Garden plants with a developed root system require special attention: white snowberry, shadberry, fieldfare. When forming them, they control not only the height, but also the width, cutting off the root growth along the entire perimeter. In young crops, it is also very important to prevent strong crown growth.

On the other hand, do not get rid of all the shoots too zealously, this will give a loose structure and ugly appearance bush. First of all, old, weak, non-viable branches coming from the roots are cut. Strong ones are eliminated only in cases when they grow crookedly, towards the bush itself or interfere with the development of young shoots. They leave a shoot that can eventually replace old and diseased branches.

In plants that do not tolerate frosty winters, dried branches must be removed. The cut is made, retreating 1 cm above the second kidney. You will not need processes, branches and shoots that spoil the overall perception of the decorativeness of the bush.

For shrub rejuvenation

Anti-aging pruning ornamental shrubs it is used to obtain a rich harvest in cases with fruit and dense flowering and landscaping for plants that serve as a garden decoration. This method is also suitable for old, poorly growing (less than 6-8 cm per year) crops. The ideal time for the procedure is from August to September.

It is important for beginner gardeners to know that pruning is done after flowering. The branches are shortened by 30%, the length is measured from the top. As a result, due to the side shoots, the bush will become more magnificent, the number of inflorescences will increase, and on fruit bushes the quantity and quality of fruits or berries.

This procedure is carried out every two years. This will maintain the necessary aeration and decorativeness of the bush.

The scheme of pruning ornamental shrubs according to the rejuvenating type:

Nuances that a gardener needs to know

When performing anti-aging pruning of garden and ornamental crops, some features and consequences must be taken into account. Namely:

1. 1. Removing branches, among other advantages, allows you to control the size of the inflorescences. If you greatly shorten the length of the branches, the flowers will become larger, but their number will decrease significantly.
2. 2. If the procedure is carried out regularly, the shrub will lose its crown density and its decorative appearance, so the shoots intended for removal must be carefully selected.
3. 3. No more than 4 buds are cut at a time.
4. 4. Branches are radically removed with significant degeneration of the plant, after 4 years after planting.
5. 5. The gardener must know exactly the characteristics of the flowering of his shrub - whether the buds are tied on the branches of the last year or on fresh growth. Depending on this, old branches or excess shoots are cut.
6. 6. In difficult cases, when the shrub has stopped releasing young shoots, and the old branches are weakened and damaged, a radical rejuvenation procedure is used. Cut off all branches at ground level. If the bush was originally formed on a stock, pruning is carried out, deviating from the vaccination about 15 cm. This activates the growth of fresh shoots, because the base, that is root system will remain the same. After a year or two, the formation of the bush begins anew according to the general rules.

Pruning coniferous shrubs

Shrubs from the category of conifers are not cut regularly. This is justified only in the case of the appearance of diseased, weak and damaged branches. Another reason is to add decorativeness to the landscape or use plants in the form of hedges. In order to minimize the trauma of the procedure (conifers are very difficult to tolerate pruning), some features should be considered:

1. 1. The most hardy coniferous species is yew. You can create it without fear. With all other trees and shrubs, it is necessary to act extremely carefully.
2. 2. Only the green part is removed, the brown branches should not be touched - they cannot be restored.
3. 3. It is important to choose the right tools.
4. 4. The safety of the procedure and its effectiveness depend on disinfection.
5. 5. No more than 30% of greenery is removed at a time.
6. 6. Cypress and larch are pruned in November (the specific time depends on the region).
7. 7. The cutting angle per kidney is 45 degrees.
8. 8. To preserve the natural look, only internal branches are thinned out.

Some coniferous shrubs lose their attractive, unique coloration with age. Cropping fixes this. For example, cypress becomes a luxurious plant with a dense, silver-colored crown.

Necessary tools - types and purpose

"Haircut" is not an easy task and requires the use of well-sharpened garden tools:

1. 1. Secateurs. Needed for cutting thin branches up to 2.5 cm in diameter. There are two types of fixture - with a curved blade and straight. Thick shoots are cut first, the disadvantage is that it is difficult to prune without gaps. The second has a design in which the blade rests against the end of the tool, so there is no need to check for a gap between the blades. Minus - it is impossible to trim in a hard-to-reach place.
2. 2. Lopper. Designed for branches with a diameter of 5 cm. Copes well with shoots in the depths of the leaf crown and other hard-to-reach places. For work at height there is a rope lopper.
3. 3. Saw. It is used when eliminating very thick branches.
4. 4. Knife. Multifunctional tool. Serves for trimming and stripping thin branches, cutting bark, correcting uneven cuts.
5. 5. Garden scissors. Helps form a figured crown and hedge.
6. 6. Stepladder. When choosing it, you should pay attention to stability and widely spaced legs.

Scheme for the correct pruning of ornamental shrubs

The main requirement when pruning is do no harm. In order for the procedure to pass without consequences, follow the following rules step by step:

1. 1. Dried, damaged, old and broken shoots are removed.
2. 2. The cuts are made even, there should be no split stumps.
3. 3. If the branch is cut off without subsequently leaving a hemp, then this is done at an angle of 45 degrees.
4. 4. All used tools are thoroughly washed and sharpened.
5. 5. For branches up to 2 cm, a pruner is used, thick ones are cut with a hacksaw.
6. 6. All actions are accurately verified so as not to hurt other shoots.
7. 7. If you need to stimulate the growth of weak shoots, cut them short. For the formation decorative look bush - only the tops.
8. 8. The cut must have a smooth surface.
9. 9. To avoid pruning, it is better to just pinch the shoots in time.

After the procedure, the sections are treated with garden pitch; for thick branches (more than 3 cm in diameter), oil-based paint is used.

How to carry out the procedure for hydrangeas?

Gardeners grow hydrangeas to give a decorative effect to the landscape, so pruning this plant is needed to increase the intensity of flowering. The procedure is subjected to adult cultures from 5 years and older. Old branches are removed at ground level, cutting them off completely. Leave no more than 5 shoots. If everything is done correctly, young branches will appear in the spring, formed from buds on the root collar. The old ones will be renewed and bloom again.

Another way to renew the hydrangea is to remove the buds (faded) at a level of about 40 cm from the soil surface. AT this case in the spring there will be a significant increase in fresh, young shoots on last year's, quite viable, strong branches. They will not break and bend under the weight of inflorescences and flowering caps.

Proper pruning of berry bushes

The basis of any garden is berry and fruit trees and shrubs. Growing them is not difficult, but it will take a lot of time and effort. An important stage of care is pruning and it must be carried out at a certain time and according to the established technology.

Autumn "haircut" of fruit and berry crops is carried out annually after the end of sap flow, until the first frost. Depending on the species of the plant, some of the procedure is carried out in September, others - in November. General recommendations the following:

1. 1. Pruning in the autumn period is carried out only in regions where there are no long and harsh winter frosts. Otherwise, the bark at the cut site will freeze, and the bush will die.
2. 2. The procedure is not carried out if the temperature outside is less than -10 degrees. With persistent frosts, the wood acquires a fragile structure and simply breaks, hard-healing mechanical damage occurs.
3. 3. Freshly planted shrubs are not pruned, because in the first year this is not necessary. Moreover, if the landing site is chosen incorrectly and on next year the plant will be transplanted, then it is best to form a crown on a new site.
4. 4. Autumn pruning is applicable only to mature trees and shrubs.
5. 5. Processing places of cut branches with garden pitch is required.
6. 6. Tools should be as sharp as possible.

Shoots are pruned depending on the species. So, in blackcurrant, the fruiting period lasts about 5 years, so only old branches of 6 years of age are removed.

Raspberry

If the raspberries are not remontant, the procedure is carried out immediately after harvest. For early varieties it could even be summer. Late-ripening and remontant pruned only in the fall.

The life span of a raspberry is 2 years. In the first year, the bush actively develops, in the second - bears fruit. In the future, the plant begins to degenerate and gradually dies. Therefore, after harvesting for 2 years, it is cut at the root. The number of shoots should also be regulated: the more there are, the smaller the yield. Ideally, no more than 8 strong and strong shoots are left, the rest are ruthlessly removed to the ground.

Remontant raspberries begin to bear fruit in the first year, so they are pruned immediately after harvest. Cut bushes are burned. If the winter in the region is not snowy, pruning is transferred by weight. In winter, raspberries are tied in a bunch and bent to the ground.

Currant

Currants are pruned either during the picking of berries, or after, when the bushes completely shed their foliage, and a dormant period begins. It bears fruit both on young shoots and on old branches. But the older the bush, the smaller and smaller the fruits. During the procedure, no more than 10 of the strongest branches and 4 young strong shoots are left on it (they cut off 5 buds from above).

Bushes over 6 years old are removed to the first true bud, which is about a third of the branch. Dried cut out completely. Young shoots at the roots are carefully thinned out. Immediately after pruning, currants are spudded, so they stimulate the growth of shoots from the root system. The most powerful of them for the next year will replace old and diseased branches.

Varieties of red and white currants bear fruit on adult branches. Therefore, when forming a bush, no more than 3 shoots are left every year, the rest are eliminated. As soon as berries cease to appear on the tops, they are reduced to the first fork. If fruiting does not occur the next year, the branch is completely removed.

Gooseberry

Any varieties of gooseberries are prone to active growth both in width and in height. Therefore, it is important to prune it annually after picking berries and leaf fall.

Dried, twisted, old and growing branches inside the bush are to be removed under the root. If they are left, the yield will decrease annually. In autumn, 5-6 of the strongest branches are left on the gooseberry, reduced to a height of 25 cm, everything else is ruthlessly removed. If the time for pruning is missed and the plant is more than 2 years old, then in addition to sanitary thinning, the curved branches growing down and inward are additionally cut off, fresh shoots are reduced to 3 buds. The root shoots are carefully thinned out.

Formation of a dwarf apple tree

You can and should prune an apple tree. But they do it in different ways, depending on the desired end result and age.

Most the best time for the first cut autumn planting apple trees. During this period, the future crown is formed. The branches are cut a third of the length at the top and a quarter at the bottom. They are removed according to the principle: the smaller the root system, the stronger they should be cut off.

In the second season, the apple tree is cut 35 cm (necessarily above the kidney) from the trunk of the first-order branch. In the future, branches of the second order are formed here. But it is important to ensure that they are strictly along the outer edge of the crown and do not bend at an acute angle. If this happens, they are shortened by 25 cm from the trunk.

It is important to remember that the fruiting age is 4 years. In this regard, all older branches are removed, replacing them with young annual shoots.

During fruiting and harvesting, it is necessary to cut off emerging shoots on skeletal branches if they grow more than 20 cm. Pruning is done by about ¼ of the length. As a result, the tree will not be depleted, the apple harvest will become uniform, plentiful and annual.

Rejuvenation is carried out after about 5 years, when the quantity and quality (size) of fruits decreases significantly, shoots appear rarely, and they are very weakened. Pruning in this case consists in removing branches that have formed within 3 years. All branches of the first order must be replaced by branches of the second. All the strongest and thickest are also subject to elimination. As a result, the volume of the crown will increase. A decrease in yield is possible, but the fruits will become noticeably larger and better.

Mandatory feeding after the procedure

Pruning is always a traumatic procedure for a shrub. Therefore, the next step will be the introduction of organic fertilizers. Spring feeding is significantly different from autumn.

If the pruning procedure was carried out from August to November, then the plant will need phosphate fertilizers to form a new root system. When applying top dressing, it should be evenly redistributed around the entire circumference around the stem circle. This process is combined with irrigation.

Most effective organic fertilizer for shrubs is an infusion of compost. It is prepared for about 3 days in the proportion of 0.5 kg per 10 liters of water. Watering is carried out in the evening cool time or in cloudy weather. When fertilizing, make sure that the liquid does not fall on young shoots and leaves. If the drought lasted for a long time, the plant is abundantly watered with plain water before feeding.

trimming decorative and fruit crops presents no great difficulty. The main thing is to choose the right time, stock up on tools and be patient at first. In the future, when the necessary skills are acquired, this process will be simplified, and the site will delight every year with a lush, healthy, flowering and fruitful garden.

It's time to start trimming ornamental shrubs. The work is not as simple as it seems at first glance, and requires an understanding of the biology of plants, the characteristics of their growth.

Jasmine (mock orange)

Do not pick up a pruner without a clear understanding of the purpose of the pruning. And the goals are different ...

1. Sanitary pruning, or cleaning. We remove all dry, broken, diseased and damaged branches.
2. Formative, or structural pruning. Let's look at the bush from the side and imagine the image of the plant, which we will strive for for several years. Having determined the optimal shape of the bush, we remove all unnecessary, cut out intersecting, shading each other or branches growing towards the center.
3. Anti-aging, or deep cut. Once every three years, we cut out part of the old branches to the base.
4. radical pruning, or "stump landing". Every year in early April, we cut the entire bush into a short stump.

The timing of pruning depends on the type of pruning and the characteristics of the growth of shrubs.

• Early spring. Pruning, which is carried out from the end of frost to bud break, coincides with the natural rhythms of plant life and therefore stimulates the powerful growth of shoots.
• Early summer. After the completion of active sap flow, at the beginning of shoot growth, spring-flowering shrubs and vines are cut.
• Summer pruning. Until August, branches are selectively removed to restrain vegetative growth.

Trimming technique

The cut should be smooth, without damage to the cortex and cambium, which will “tighten” the wound. Thin branches (up to a centimeter in diameter) are removed with a pruner, thicker ones with a garden file or a lopper. Shortening the branches, make a "cut on the kidney."

Slices are immediately covered with garden pitch or sealed with adhesive tape. Sections with a diameter of less than 0.5 cm can be left untreated.

The need for pruning various shrubs

Features of pruning a shrub depend on the characteristics of its growth. Conventionally, shrubs can be divided into several groups.

First cropping group

These are deciduous shrubs that bloom in spring and early summer. They always form new shoots in the lower part of the bush or in the middle of last year's branches, and flower buds - on last year's growths.

Shrubs of this group are pruned immediately after flowering. Sanitary pruning is applied to them in the spring and maintenance pruning (once every three years) in the spring after flowering, while about half of all old branches are completely removed. If the bush has not been trimmed for a long time, try to rejuvenate it by cutting it almost to the base.

This group includes tall spring-flowering spirea(sharp-toothed, Thunberg, Wangutta, crenate, oak-leaved, nippon, gray, or ashy), forsythia, mock orange(garden jasmine) action, weigela, Japanese kerria, ornamental currant, tree peony and other early flowering shrubs.

Most of them age quickly: noticeably fewer flowers form on old branches, the branches become bare and the bush loses its decorative effect.

Kerria Japanese.

Japanese kerria, often freezing in winter, you can cut it all short, it has time to grow up to a meter in a season and even bloom. The resulting bushes have a neater shape than the old ones falling apart. Particularly interesting are the variegated forms of kerria planted on a stump.

Weigela Red Prince.

Weigel theoretically, it is impossible to prune strongly (it will not bloom). But weigels have a fairly high shoot-forming ability, so frozen plants can be safely cut “under zero”: by autumn they even bloom with a few flowers.

Forsythia European.

forsythia, in which the most flowers are formed on three-year-old branches, they do not touch without urgent need, they only carry out sanitary pruning.

Second trim group

This group includes deciduous shrubs that bloom in mid-summer and autumn, in which flowers form on the shoots of the current year: buddleya, summer-flowering spireas(Japanese, Douglas, white-flowered, loose-leaved), hydrangea paniculata, hydrangea tree, cinquefoil shrub.

To keep the compact, beautiful shape of these shrubs, in early spring last year's annual shoots are radically cut off - into a short stump 10-15 cm high. Thin weak branches are cut to the base. Withered inflorescences are also cut off, but in hydrangeas, inflorescences that retain their decorative effect until the end of the season are not touched.

Hydrangea

Annually pruned Japanese spireas form dense, profusely flowering, bright plants.

This group also includes deciduous shrubs: caryopteris, lavatera, lavender, fragrant rue. The shoots of these plants are woody only in the lower part, and the upper part, as a rule, freezes over in winter.

They are cut not early in the spring, but a little later, when the buds wake up in the lower part of the bush and you can see how much to shorten the stems.

Third cropping group

This group includes deciduous ornamental deciduous shrubs (white derain, different types elderberries).

Deren differs not only in beautiful leaves, but also in very bright red or cherry bark. But this happens only on young shoots, with age the bark turns gray, the leaves become smaller.

Always bright branches can be achieved only by annual or every two years "landing on a stump", that is, by early spring short pruning (stumps of 10-15 cm are usually left). Do not be afraid to do this: the turf grows over the season.

Almost all species need strong pruning in the spring. elderberry. In addition, elderberry varieties freeze heavily in black winter. Elderberry, after pruning, grows quickly and appears in all its glory of its large carved leaves.
Tamarix and Myricaria also freeze. But they are severely pruned every year even in countries with a mild climate (so as not to stretch). After pruning, the shoots of plants grow by 1-1.5 m and look wonderful, surprising with delicacy.

Fourth trim group

It includes all shrubs that do not form regularly replacing shoots at the base of the bush. Shrubs that produce new shoots only from the apical and upper lateral buds along the periphery of the crown bloom and remain viable even without maintenance pruning. Older branches are not superfluous here - they form the crown.

All types of hawthorn, shadberry, lilac, deciduous euonymus, cotoneaster, viburnum, tannery, ornamental varieties of cherries, plums and apple trees, bushy maples need only sanitary pruning and thinning of the crown.

More than others needs special pruning lilac. Without pruning, flowering becomes scarce, growths and inflorescences become smaller.

Lilac flower buds are located at the tops of last year's growths located in the upper part of the crown, so they cannot be shortened. In a well-developed bush, you can remove some of the shoots with flower buds, leaving the strongest and most well-located, then the remaining inflorescences will be larger. For the same purpose, all weak and inward-growing crowns, intersecting, competing shoots are cut into a ring.

Pruned lilacs in the spring, before the start of sap flow. Before setting the seeds, faded panicles are removed, trying not to damage the nearby shoots with leaves on which new flower buds are laid.

Fifth trim group

This group includes evergreen shrubs and creeping forms (rhododendrons, evergreen species of viburnum and cotoneaster, laurel cherry, dwarf forms of willow and gorse). Due to uniform growth along the perimeter of the crown, they form a strong beautiful bush without pruning. Only diseased or frozen shoots are removed on them in the spring.

Subtleties of cropping

• Branches with long internodes are shortened a few millimeters above the outward bud. This applies to bush maples, hydrangeas, weigels, as well as shrubs with hollow shoots (forsythia, elderberry, some honeysuckle).
• The vitality and splendor of flowering of very many ornamental shrubs is stimulated by pruning, or maintenance, when, by removing old branches, they make room for younger and stronger shoots. Shrubs that have been neglected or have been improperly pruned for years can be put in order with the help of rejuvenating pruning.
• Pay attention to the natural shape of shrubs. It is hardly possible to keep a bush small for a long time or make it grow in an unnatural way without harming the flowering. With maintenance pruning, try to preserve the natural appearance of the plant, and not cut all the branches "one size fits all". Start pruning from the bottom of the bush, moving up. This will save you from double work, as thinner branches are removed at once with the whole branch.
• In most cases, the dying off of old shoots in shrubs is a natural process and should not cause particular concern.

To understand at what interval to cut out old shoots to rejuvenate a bush, you need to know the life expectancy of one shoot: in spring-flowering spirea and cinquefoil shrub -3-5; in mock oranges, wild roses, weigels, barberries - 5-10 years.

Shoots of tall shrubs (lilac, hawthorn) live much longer. Old branches are identified by weak side branches with many short growths.

Ornamental vines are pruned after the leaves bloom in late spring or summer. Early spring pruning is dangerous due to strong sap flow. More often, only dry and unsuccessfully located shoots are cut out.

Pruning berry bushes in autumn

Can't cut off

Pruning shrubs in autumn- the most important agrotechnical event in autumn garden besides, aboutpruning berry bushes in autumn- one of the most important methods of garden agrotechnics.

Obtaining high and stable yields of berry bushes largely depends on the systematic pruning of bushes. The main tasks of pruning are the formation of bushes, the improvement of fruiting and the improvement of lighting conditions for all parts of the bush. It is known that a bush can grow without pruning, but the result will be much worse, since it forms more slowly, and the berries become smaller.

Pruning bushes (pruning berry bushes in autumn) is a rather laborious operation, and if there are a lot of bushes (more than 10), then pruning will take more than one day. Bushes are pruned both in early spring, before bud break, and in autumn, after the leaves fall.

The main problem of the gardener when pruning shrubs on his garden plot- fear of cutting off too much, which means getting a smaller harvest. The effect of such a "trimming to a minimum" will be appropriate- minimal. In order for pruning to give a result, you need to "cut without sparing."

Last spring I had to cut down a bush black currant, because it was infected with a bud mite, gave small berries, and from the whole bush it was hardly possible to collect a handful of berries. Cutting the bush at the root was, of course, a pity. But over the summer, at least eight new strong shoots more than a meter high have grown, the bush has become lush, strong, renewed, and this summer I expect an appropriate harvest from it.

The most important part of shrubs- underground, therefore, no matter how many branches are cut, new shoots will quickly appear from dormant buds on the root collar of the bush.

According to N. P. Krenke, who formulated the theory of cyclic aging and rejuvenation of plants, new plant organs slow down the rate of aging of the entire plant. At the same time, plant aging is inevitable, but due to periodic rejuvenation, it is possible to significantly extend the life of the plant.

It is very important to cut old branches at ground level, without leaving stumps, as pests can settle in them. All cut branches are burned because they can be sources of pests and diseases.

You will need a pruner to cut branches, and for larger and thicker branches- saw. Large sections are best treated with garden pitch.

It is difficult to give precise recommendations for pruning a bush, because each bush requires an individual approach. In addition, different berry bushes have their own pruning specifics. Therefore, it is very important when starting pruning to clearly understand what needs to be trimmed and why, and what to leave.

Raspberry

Pruning raspberries is simple and is associated with its biological feature. As you know, raspberries have biennial shoots. In the first year, these shoots grow, in the second they bear fruit and die. As a rule, the shoots that brought the crop in the second year are cut out near the ground itself or even in the ground. At the same time, all unnecessary and weak shoots are removed from the bush. This cutting can be done in the spring, but it is more favorable for the shrub.- autumn.

After planting raspberries in the second year, 2-3 shoots are left for fruiting near the bushes. In subsequent years, the number of shoots is increased and adjusted to 10-12 in adult bushes, and the rest are cut out.

In the early spring, the shoots left in the bush since autumn shorten a little. The cut is not made in an arbitrary place of the shoot, but directly above the kidney. Raspberry shoots bear fruit best in the middle part, so pinch the tops. Shoots with pinched tops develop side branches, which is why fruiting will be stronger, and the berries will be better and larger.

In especially favorable conditions cultivation, annual shoots reach a height of 2.8-3 m. In this case, after shortening, they should have a length of 2.2-2.5 m. Under less favorable growing conditions, the length of the offspring is 1.2-1.5 m. Such shoots are shortened , cutting off the top 10-15 cm long.

A feature of remontant raspberries is the annual cycle of development of the aerial part, therefore, in autumn or in some cases in spring, the aerial part is cut to ground level.

With the age of the raspberry bush, the formation of new shoots gradually decreases. Then there comes a moment when very few offspring are formed and the yield drops sharply. It has been established that the productivity of old raspberry bushes can be restored by removing the old rhizome. Thus, the ratio between the above-ground and root systems of the plant is changed, as a result of which an increase in growth is observed.

Anti-aging pruning should be accompanied by the introduction of increased doses of organic and mineral fertilizers. Rejuvenation of raspberry bushes should be carried out every 5-6 years. This allows you to significantly extend the age of the raspberry plantation.

Black currant

A blackcurrant bush is formed gradually over 4-5 years. A fully formed and fruiting blackcurrant bush should have 3-4 branches at the age of 1-2-3-4-5 years. In total, there will be 15-20 branches of various ages on the bush.

The age of the branch is determined by the number of annual growths. To do this, the outer annual rings are found on the branches and the age of the branch is calculated from top to bottom.

The skeletal branches of blackcurrant bear fruit well for 4-6 years, then the degree of fruiting decreases, so the old branches are cut out completely at the age of 5-6 years at the base of the bushes.

Pruning is done as follows. Of the young annual shoots, 6-8 of the strongest and most correctly located are left, and the rest are removed. Then pruned annually:

1) all stems over 4-5 years old (these stems are easy to distinguish from young stems by their almost black color);

2) all sagging stems lying on the ground;

3) stems going inside the bush and strongly crossing;

4) all extra shoots coming from the root collar, as well as shoots with tops frozen over during the winter;

5) all dry and diseased stems.

The branch should also be removed if the growth of annual growth is weakened (less than 15 cm).

Drying tops of aging shoots are cut to some strong lateral branch to enhance the growth of the remaining part of the branch.

Young shoots left for replacement are shortened. by one third, to enhance branching.

It is necessary to ensure that branches of all ages remain on the bush, since the best fruiting usually occurs on branches of 2-3 years of age.

Red and white currant

The technique of pruning red and white currants is somewhat different, since the nature of the fruiting of these crops is specific. A large number of fruit buds are laid in the upper parts of the shoots, which then turn into bouquet branches, crowded near the boundaries of annual growths. They are more durable than blackcurrant,- live and bear fruit up to 4 years.

Due to these features of fruiting in currants, it is impossible to shorten annual basal and annual lateral shoots located in the upper parts of perennial branches.

Red and white currants form the main crop on 2-5-year-old branches. When forming a bush, 3-4 of the strongest annual shoots are left annually. All diseased, weak and thickening shoots in the middle of the bush are cut out.

Skeletal branches of red and white currant bear fruit for 6-8 years. Branches that have not reached this age are removed only when they do not form a growth and do not bear fruit, or to cause intensive growth of basal shoots. All old, non-fruiting branches are cut out completely at the very base of the bush.

The full formation of fruit-bearing bushes of red and white currants ends at 5-8 years. In the formed fruiting bush of red and white currants, there should be 2-3 branches each different ages, and in total it is recommended to have 10-12 well-developed branches of different ages. It is necessary to ensure that the composition of the branches of different ages is preserved, otherwise the time will come when all the old ones will die at the same time and the bush will not be able to quickly recover.

Gooseberry

The formation of a bush and the rejuvenation of gooseberries are produced in almost the same way as currants. A fruit-bearing, formed bush should have 15-20 branches in approximately the same number for age groups.

In the year of planting, the bush is cut off, leaving 2-3 buds on the shoot. By the end of the first year, the bush will have 5-6 or more annual shoots. In the spring, in the second year of planting, last year's shoots are shortened by one quarter - one third of their length.

Gooseberries bear fruit on shortened shoots of 2-3 years of age, located on the growths of the previous year. Pruning fruit-bearing branches of 2-3 years of age is not practiced.

Gooseberries also bear fruit on older branches, 4-7 years of age, therefore, when pruning, only branches older than 7 years of age are removed. Annual shoots of gooseberries cannot be shortened, as this reduces the yield.

Every year, dry, superfluous and shading shoots are cut out from gooseberry bushes, then old, non-fruit-bearing branches covered with lichens and weaker fruit-bearing ones. Cut out all shoots older than 7-8 years. If such an annual cutting is not made, then the bush will become completely barren. In addition, a neglected bush often gets sick powdery mildew and other diseases.

When pruning gooseberries, you will need tight gloves and clothes that you won’t be sorry to tear with thorns.

Launched berry bushes and pruning of berry bushes in autumn

Bushes left for a long time without pruning become very dense, form a weak growth and differ a high percentage old branches. There are very few young strong branches in them.

Strong thinning is needed to restore growth. Remove all dry, diseased and broken branches. Particular attention should be paid to the cutting of external hanging branches and internal branches that thicken the bush. Annual branches are also removed, leaving only 3-4 to replace the old main branches.

If there are not enough young strong branches in the bush, measures must be taken to cause the appearance of basal shoots. To do this, cut out 2-3 old branches at the base.

The main purpose of pruning running bushes- cause the formation of new strong growths to gradually replace all old branches. Cutting all the old branches in one year is impractical. They should be replaced within 2-3 years.

In addition, neglected bushes- these are sources of diseases and pests, it is especially dangerous if such bushes are located near new plantings. Pruning berry bushes in the fall and burning the branches will greatly reduce the risk of infection.

Combining the correct and timely pruning of berry bushes in the fall with careful soil care, you can get stable and high yields for many years.

S. Zalmanova

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It only at first glance seems that haircuts were invented exclusively for people. no less need a similar procedure, and not only for the sake of beauty, but also for health.

A beautiful and well-groomed garden cannot be created without a competent one. But in order to get the desired result, it is important to answer to three main questions: what to cut? when? and why?

This is what we will talk about today, because autumn is the best time for such a topic.

Secrets of the garden hairdresser

In fact, the field of activity is very extensive, because almost every garden dweller needs, if not a haircut, then at least a minimal trim. Some plants should be correct, others have to be deprived of their “hair” in order to save them from enemies (and pathogens), others have suffered from the machinations of the elements during the growing season and they urgently need the intervention of a “traumatologist”.

Advice: start autumn pruning after leaf fall, when sap flow stops and plants go into dormancy. Well, you need to finish the process before frost. Only in this case, the haircut will not weaken the plants, but, on the contrary, will strengthen their immunity. And do not be too zealous - pruning should be gentle so that your pets do not get too severe stress.

Wintering with an injured or thickened crown is dangerous for plants, so in the fall it is first of all necessary sanitary and thinning pruning all cultures.

In the first case, trees and bushes get rid of broken, barren and dried branches. Particular attention should be paid to branches affected by pests and diseases. Such areas are especially visible after the trees part with their foliage.

Pruning inside the crown often call thinning(cut branches that block light or cross and rub against each other, damaging the bark). Superfluous can also be called shoots extending upward from the trunk at an acute angle. And don't forget to ruthlessly cut tops- shoots that grow on the central conductor and skeletal branches.

Competently perform all these procedures will help special tools for trimming, which you can choose from our market. and compare the offers of different online stores.

Sanitary pruning is relevant for any woody plants, therefore, in the fall, trees and shrubs must be rid of dried and broken branches. Such a haircut will help them survive the winter more easily.

Trimming ornamental shrubs

Many in autumn they need sanitary pruning and thinning. But if the first process is mandatory for everyone, then certain problems may arise with the second, because not everyone can shorten shoots in the fall. So when can you bring beauty? The answer to this question depends not only on the characteristics of the species, variety, but also on the time of their flowering.

Remember: at the end of the season, only shrubs that bloom on the shoots of the current year should be cut. Plants that delight with their lush color already in early spring are strictly forbidden to touch in autumn - here flower buds are formed on last year's growths, so all "hairdressing procedures" should be performed in the summer, immediately after flowering ends.

In autumn (or early spring), prune shrubs that bloom from mid-summer to autumn, which form flower buds on the growth of the current year. This is blooming in summer, brilliant cotoneaster, and others.

In autumn, it needs preventive pruning to free the plant from an unnecessary load of dry, diseased, and infertile branches.

in autumn it needs only sanitary pruning, and it is better to leave dried inflorescences on the bush until spring.

You will learn how to properly prune hydrangeas from publications: In the fall, doing sanitary and thinning pruning, you can also remove or shorten summer growths - new shoots will grow in spring.

The shearing of ornamentals, whose branches adorn the fruits in autumn, is often postponed until early spring. For example, it blooms from July to September, and in August and September fruits appear that can remain on the shoots all winter.

By the way, the snowberry perfectly tolerates rejuvenating autumn pruning “under the stump” 40-60 cm high - next summer, young shoots will grow from sleeping buds.

Needs both sanitary and thinning pruning. Schedule these jobs for the fall.

Queens of our gardens- - very demanding on wintering conditions. Proper pruning helps them to endure natural disasters. Almost all representatives of this family need a sanitary and thinning haircut in the fall.

• According to the weather (usually at the end of October), remove shoots that have not matured and are directed inside the bush, old, broken, diseased and pest-damaged branches, cut off the remaining flowers, buds, leaves.
• Get rid of the grafted roses from the basal growth, which constantly grows throughout the season, otherwise the wild rose rootstock will crush the grafted variety.
• A comfortable wintering for varietal roses (floribunda, hybrid tea, polyanthus) will be provided by a water-dry shelter, before which all branches will have to be significantly shortened.
• Before proceeding to the “hairdressing procedures”, install a shelter frame over the bushes, on which you need to temporarily throw a rain film on top - it is contraindicated for roses after an autumn haircut.
• Shoots do not shorten to the height of the shelter. This is not necessary, since for the winter the plants are removed from the supports and covered in a horizontal position. They need sanitary pruning: removal of the remaining flowers, buds, leaves, injured, diseased or pest-infested lashes.

Lot useful information you will find in the article.

A series of publications will help you to understand in more detail the intricacies of the images of various “decorators”:

Pruning climbing plants

quickly spread in all directions, without taking a definite form. If left at the mercy of nature, they will crawl along the ground, and from there they will move to neighboring trees. To prevent them from suffocating their neighbors in the arms, let these climbers climb a wall or fence.

hedge trimming

cut to make it thick and even.

• Hardwood "fences" are recommended to be cut already in the first year after planting, best of all in late autumn.
• Fast growing crops (eg.