Lawn after winter: how to restore beauty. How to care for your lawn after winter How to care for your lawn in early spring

What to do with the lawn after winter

How to take care of your lawn in spring? Don't Put Off Taking Care of Your Lawn"for later". With the first rays of the spring sun, pay attention to your lawn. Follow the order of work, do not miss the deadlines for their implementation.

Removal of melt water

Be sure to hold this event as soon as the snow begins to melt slightly. Snow drifts left on the site will lead to:

  • the formation of puddles;
  • rotting grass on the lawn.

To remove excess water from the site should be a drainage system laid under the lawn before sowing the grass. If you have not arranged drainage, get rid of snowdrifts with a shovel: gently spread the snow over the area.

Important! At any time of the year, trampling on the lawn is prohibited! Traces formed on the grass are very difficult to remove.

Spring top dressing

By the end of April, the earth warms up well, the final warming comes. Buy nitrogen fertilizers. You need to make them before the germination of young grass. If you miss this moment, the grass will burn under the sun from fertilizers.

Important! Do not overdo it. Excess chemicals will damage plants.

Debris removal. Lawn aeration

One and a half to two weeks after the complete dissolution of fertilizers in the soil, take an ordinary rake and carefully comb garden debris from the lawn. Work in the transverse and longitudinal direction.

Advice. Dead grass, withered leaves, felt removed from the lawn, fold into compost pit. Decayed residues over time will become an excellent organic fertilizer.

During brushing:

  • the accumulated felt is removed from the site;
  • the hardened crust on the surface is loosened;
  • improved air access to the roots.

After clearing your lawn of debris, start aerating. The essence of the method: prevention of compaction in the soil and stagnant water. Work carefully in areas overgrown with moss.

Aeration methods:

  1. Mechanical. With a pitchfork, pierce the soil throughout the area to a depth of 8 cm.
  2. With an aerator. A special device effectively copes with the task.

Weed control

Not the most pleasant occupation, but you can not do without it. Weeds interfere with the growth of lawn grass, spoil the appearance of the site.

Fighting methods:

  1. Mechanical. Harmful plants are pulled out with roots by hand. You can remove weeds with a shovel or root extractor. This method is suitable for small lawns.
  2. Chemical. Herbicides (ferazim, fundazol and others) are used to kill weeds. Protect your hands, face and respiratory tract while working with pesticides. Work the lawn in the morning or evening, in dry, calm weather.

Repairing a damaged lawn

The main activities for lawn care after the winter have already been completed. The next stage is to bring the area sown with grass "into a divine form."

Many summer residents walk on the lawn in winter without thinking about the consequences for plants. After the snow melts, damaged areas can be distinguished by a darker shade and crushed grass.

It can also worsen the condition of the lawn.:

  • diseases of lawn plants;
  • severe cold;
  • excess moisture in the soil.

How to restore a lawn? To get started, understand what factors influenced the poor condition of the grass cover.

  1. When soil moisture is high, find holes where water has collected and fill them with enough soil.
  2. Dig up trampled or frostbitten areas, remove old grass, sow with a mixture of the same herbs that are already here. Following this rule will help even out the color of the lawn.
  3. After sowing a new portion of the herbal mixture, gently roll the soil and water the soil. Keep an eye on the amount of moisture: do not allow the formation of puddles on the lawn.

Advice. Water only in the evening, otherwise the water will evaporate during the day, and the soil will not be sufficiently saturated with moisture.

Disease control

After the restoration of damaged areas, begin the prevention of diseases. Most often the lawn is affected:

  • powdery mildew;
  • mold;
  • fusarium.

Spraying the lawn with copper and iron sulfate will help protect the site from fungal diseases, lichens and mosses. Do not overwater the area.

Perform soil aeration, improve soil structure. Inspect shady places and remove harmful formations from the surface in a timely manner. If fungus is found, replace the soil and sow a new lawn mixture.

Advice. Dig out not only the affected areas around the perimeter, but also grab the soil around them. This will prevent the spread of fungal diseases throughout the lawn.

spring haircut

By the beginning of May, many of the main activities had already been completed, the grass had grown. It's time for the first haircut of the new year.

Advice. Do not leave cut grass on the property. A special grass collector makes it much easier to collect unwanted grass.

Watering

Be sure to prepare good system glaze. Drip irrigation is an ideal way to saturate the lawn of any area with moisture.

The fight against "uninvited guests"

Another misfortune that annoys the owners of luxurious lawns - earthworms, moles and ants. These inhabitants of the soil are most active in the summer, but you need to prepare to fight them in the spring.

What to do:

  • buy mole traps, windmills and devices that make a sound to scare away underground inhabitants;
  • mulch the soil with peat mixtures. This operation will protect the lawn from earthworms;
  • you are annoyed by anthills on your perfect lawn? Treat them with a special composition called Akkelik.

Lawn care after winter requires perseverance. Regularly check the condition of the soil, perform all the proposed activities. The results of your work will pay off in full: your lawn will be in perfect condition.

The lawn is a traditional decoration of a suburban area. Thanks to careful care, in summer it looks bright and juicy and serves as a beautiful backdrop for flowering plants. Often the owners are disappointed when they see the lawn after the winter. Proper care in the spring will help restore the former beauty of the lawn.

First work in spring

Lawn care work after the winter starts in early April. Make sure that the snow is evenly spread over the entire area. If drifts form, spread the snow evenly.

An ice crust appears on the ground in spring. It does not allow air to penetrate to the root system of plants, which leads to its death. The crust is easily removed with a rake.

In April, the snow begins to melt actively and puddles form on the surface. Stagnant water is detrimental to turf. To make the water leave faster, the earth is pierced with a pitchfork. Piercing the soil helps air get to the roots. If this process is neglected, then carbon dioxide accumulating in the upper layer of the soil will slow down the growth of grass and provoke the development of devastating diseases. Walking on the lawn during this period is not recommended, as traces will remain. The main work on restoring the coating after winter is carried out when the soil dries.

Garbage collection and aeration


After the snow melts and the ground dries, you can comb out the sod and remove debris. The best way to do this task is a fan rake. The grass is combed out in two mutually perpendicular directions.

On a lawn cleared of debris, aeration or ventilation is done. This process nourishes the roots with oxygen and prevents fungal diseases. For two days before aeration, the lawn is watered abundantly with water. Traditionally, aeration is done with a pitchfork, the soil is pierced to a depth of 8 cm. A large area lawn is easier to handle with special aerators.

Lawn care after winter

A well-mowed lawn looks unsightly: the grass is pale and sparse, there are bald spots, and the spring soil is depleted by frost. At the beginning of the growing season, complex nitrogen fertilizers are applied to the soil. The composition of spring fertilizers includes:

  • nitrogen - makes the grass thicker and greener;
  • phosphorus - strengthens the roots;
  • potassium - makes the lawn resistant to disease and drought.

An important condition for top dressing is dry grass and moist soil. The result of feeding is visible almost immediately. The grass begins to grow intensively, becomes thicker and more resistant to trampling.

If the spring is dry, then after feeding, mulching is carried out. This process:

  • moisturizes the soil;
  • loosens the ground and improves water absorption;
  • enhances the development of adventitious roots.

For mulching, peat and sand are mixed in a ratio of 1: 1, a glass of lawn grass seeds is added to each bucket of the resulting mixture. Before mulching, the lawn grass is mowed down to 3 cm. The mixture is evenly spread over the lawn so that the grass is not completely covered. The mulching mixture is leveled with a rake.

First lawn mowing

When the height of the grass reaches 10 cm, the lawn can be cut. The first time the lawn is cut to a height of 5 cm. After two weeks, the grass is cut again to a height of 3 cm. Only dry grass is cut, otherwise the lawn mower will leave marks.

Weed control

Weeds on the lawn begin to grow immediately after the snow melts. You can fight them mechanically and chemically.

Hand weeding is a more gentle method that is used in small areas. Root extractors or a spatula make weeding easier. If the root is not completely removed from the ground, the weed will grow again in this place.

Chemical weeding is used on large areas. Special herbicides of selective action destroy weeds, while not harming the lawn grass. Chemical weeding requires the use of personal protective equipment. In windy weather, processing is not carried out. The grass is processed by spraying or by brushing the leaves.

Possible problems after winter and how to solve them

If you want to see on your site in the summer beautiful lawn, care after winter, top dressing and watering will help to achieve the desired result. There are situations where you need additional measures: overseeding, treatment, removal of excess moisture.

  1. The lawn thins out after the winter. If the resulting bald spots are small, then they are covered with pieces of turf taken from under the bushes or from the edge of the lawn. Large bald spots require weeding grass. To do this, the earth is loosened with a pitchfork, sand is added to it, and then grass is sown. Newly sown grass areas do not require any special care other than regular watering. A greenhouse over a sown bald spot will accelerate the growth of new grass. For its device, a plastic film is fixed on pegs.
  2. Puddles appear on the lawn after winter. The reason for this is highly compacted land. So that the water leaves in places of its accumulation, the turf is cut and removed. The earth is loosened and mixed with peat or sand in equal proportions. After the surface is level, the cut turf is returned to its place.
  3. In the spring, snow mold appears on the lawn. It looks like a white mass sticking together grass leaves. If the disease has just appeared and has not yet had time to spread, it is enough to cut the grass short at the site of the lesion. After that, the lawn is treated with an antifungal drug. With a strong spread of mold, the lawn will have to be sown again.

The lawn after the winter often looks pretty deplorable - bald spots, yellow spots appear, the grass can rot in places. However, if carried out during the season proper care behind a green lawn, then many problems can be avoided: proper and timely feeding, cutting and watering give excellent results. If the winter was too harsh or, conversely, with thaws, then the grass cover may lose its magnificence. In this article, we will talk about how to restore the lawn after the winter in order to restore its healthy look and beauty.

Lawn care in autumn and winter

For a successful wintering of plants, it is enough to follow simple rules:

Removal of excess water

Spring lawn care begins with ensuring good runoff of melt water. During the period of snow melting, water can stagnate, which leads to dampness, the appearance of mold on the grass and yellow spots.

If the drainage system was properly made before laying the lawn, then such problems should not arise. What to do with the lawn if there is no drainage? In this case, the snow must be evenly distributed over the entire area, preventing the formation of large snowdrifts, then it will gradually melt. This is especially important for shady areas. Try to start this work as early as possible, while the ground has not yet thawed - otherwise dents and footprints will remain on the lawn, which will be difficult to remove.

In order for the drainage system to perform its functions well, it is necessary to clean all drains and wells.

rolling

In a young lawn, the turf has not yet had time to compact, so the thawed earth can rise in some places with ugly mounds. More often this happens if the area was not rolled before sowing the grass mixture. To remedy this situation, you need to roll the lawn in the spring. You can use a skating rink or self-made fixtures. We pass in one direction 1 time - this will be quite enough.

For old, perennial herbaceous plantations, rolling is not required.

Combing (scarification) of the lawn

After the snow melted, did your lawn look like a packed felt rug? Old dried grass, fallen leaves in autumn - all this delays the growth and vegetation of plants in spring, so lawn cleaning is necessary. For combing, you can use a fan rake - they also have a smaller distance between the teeth, and they will not hurt the young turf if the lawn is young. To do this work carefully, you will have to go through the entire area in two directions: along and across. Renovation of the lawn by combing is best done before the appearance of young shoots.

If this felt mat is thick and dense, it is better to mechanize combing and use a special unit - a scarifier, which not only removes the felt layer, but also makes small cuts in the soil, improving its ventilation. This procedure is called lawn scarification.

Aeration

Lawn aeration is the piercing of the lawn turf with sharp spikes. This technique is necessary to improve the supply of plant roots with oxygen, water and nutrients.

As you know, two types of bacteria live in the soil: aerobic and anaerobic. Aeration activates aerobic soil bacteria by delivering oxygen to them. As a result, the absorption of nutrients by plant roots is improved, as well as soil structure.

Aeration must be done once a year in the spring. With intensive use of the coating, as well as with severe drought or heavy rain, the procedure will have to be repeated.

Important: aeration is carried out before the introduction of spring top dressing.

To find out if the lawn needs aeration, you need to make a small vertical cut of the turf: if the rhizomes penetrate only five centimeters deep or less, then this procedure is vital for the plants, followed by intensive care (fertilizing and watering).

Aeration tools:

1. Special sandals with spikes.

Sandals with spikes are fixed on the shoes. Moving along the lawn with small steps, we pierce the soil, pressing with our weight on the turf. The more steps you take, the better the aeration. For 1 sq. meter it is necessary to make 200-300 punctures. Sandals are not used on a young lawn - the turf is still too weak and can be easily damaged. If you find it difficult to pierce the soil, try removing a few teeth, but you will have to step more often.

2. Aerator.

This garden tool is a roller with nozzles in the form of stars or spikes on a long handle. It can be mechanical or equipped with an engine (electric, gasoline). When choosing an aerator, first of all, it is necessary to be guided by the size of the area sown with grass, as well as its remoteness from the power source.

Mechanical aerators require a lot of physical effort to operate, so they are best used on a small lawn. Among the advantages of such a tool, one can note a low price, independence from energy sources, low weight, and no noise.

Electric aerators have a higher performance, but an extension cord will have to be extended to the place of their work. Such a tool will successfully process a medium-sized lawn and a woman can easily handle it.

Aerators with a gasoline engine are distinguished by maximum productivity and large loosening depth. They are designed for handling very large grass areas and long continuous operation.

When choosing an electric or gasoline aerator, evaluate the following tool parameters:

  • engine power
  • tool weight
  • tillage depth ( best models equipped with 3-5 modes)
  • working width (the wider the grip, the faster you can process a large area)
  • the presence of a grass catcher

In the absence of other tools, you can use ordinary garden pitchforks with sharp teeth. Pierce the sod without turning the bed as often as possible. To make the holes smooth and the forks easy to pull out, do this: stick them into the ground and shake a little back and forth or left and right.

How to properly aerate your lawn?

  1. We carry out this event only in cloudy weather.
  2. It is better if the soil is sufficiently moist: in a couple of days, in the absence of rain, we water the site well.
  3. We pierce the sod in rows with an overlap of 3-4 cm. Increase the number of punctures if the sod is very dense (old lawn).
  4. We leave the lawn for several days to dry the clods of earth pulled out by the thorns. Then we remove them with a rake.
  5. We add fertilizer.
  6. We water the lawn.

In the spring, nitrogen-containing mineral or organic fertilizers are applied to stimulate the growth of the aerial parts of plants. For information on how to choose and apply fertilizers, read our special article.

Overseeding lawn grass mixture

After the activities carried out spring care problem areas where the grass has grown or died become clearly visible. Repair of the lawn in the spring in such areas is carried out with the help of overseeding grass mixture. It is best to use the seeds that are left after laying the lawn. If they are not available, select the mixture of the same manufacturer that is as similar in composition as possible to the entire area.

We perform sowing as follows: in the place where there is no grass, we scatter the seeds evenly, scatter the earth from above, carefully leveling it with a rake. In the absence of rain, overseeding areas must be carefully watered.

Fighting problems

In the spring, unpleasant spots. This can be caused by various reasons:

1. Mold, fungus.

If the grass in the area of ​​​​the spot is dark and covered with a whitish coating, this area is affected by a fungal disease and must be treated with a fungicidal preparation. Measures of a radical struggle are also possible: cut a piece of sod and sow seeds in this place again.

2. Chemical burn.

If fertilizers were applied unevenly in autumn or there was no watering after they were applied, then the grass may burn out. The same burns remain from spilled gasoline or oil when using a lawn mower, as well as from waste products of animals - cats or dogs. To restore the damaged area, we perform all standard care measures: combing, aeration, watering, top dressing. If no changes occur, then the roots are damaged and only the removal of the sod in this place and the oversowing of seeds will help.

To clean the lawn from mushrooms, they must be removed along with the mycelium located in the soil. Carefully dig a trench as the mushrooms grow, fill it with new soil, compact and sow the seeds.

Fight against moles. The appearance of large heaps of earth on the lawn in spring signals that moles have been here. These animals feed on worms and various insect larvae. When digging passages, moles periodically throw the earth to the surface, which forms the so-called "molehills". It must be removed from the surface of the lawn, and the course to fall asleep. Numerous folk methods fights with moles often do not bring any results: the mole closes up the old tunnel and digs a new one.

The most effective remain: purchased ultrasonic repellers, mole traps and poisonous baits.

1. Repellers.

In order for the devices to help in the fight against moles, keep track of the number of repellers on the site. It should match the one recommended by the manufacturer, replace the batteries in them in time.

2. Mole catchers.

Mole catchers are installed in a passage dug by a mole, which can be found on slightly raised ground. Carefully open the passage with a shovel and put in it, moving as far as possible, two molehills, oriented with the entrance in different directions. We put one mole catcher to the right of the hole, the other to the left.

3. Poison baits.

To lay the bait, you need to pierce the ground along the tunnel with a pointed stick or pin. We lay the bait through the hole with a spoon, carefully close the hole with earth, trying to prevent shedding.

Conclusion. If you have completed the entire complex of lawn care in the spring, in a few weeks it will acquire its former healthy and beautiful appearance. It's time for regular trimming and watering. In our special article, we talk about how to properly lawn, as well as the tools necessary for this.

Long March weekend calls to the country. We arrive, and there is not a very high layer of snow and an ice crust. It must be pierced - this is how many lawn diseases begin. We tell you which winter is the most dangerous for lawn grasses, what kind of care a lawn needs in spring and whether it needs to be fertilized.

lawn diseases

Most often, the following diseases appear on herbs.

Freezing grasses is a fairly common cause of lawn damage and death. This happens in years with a sharp transition from autumn to winter: under the influence of low temperatures, the plants do not have time to harden and die. Freezing is also observed in severe and little snowy winters on elevated bare places, on waterlogged places in autumn. clay soils and during the formation of an ice crust.

At the beginning of winter, grasses are more frost-resistant and can withstand temperatures up to -25 ... -30 ° C; in spring, frost resistance of plants drops, and temperatures of -8 ... -10 ° C can damage, and sometimes even destroy them. A lawn covered with a layer of snow of 35-40 cm does not suffer from freezing even in severe frosts.

Snow retention, compaction of snow at the beginning of spring thaw (delays its rapid descent) allow to prevent freezing of the lawn; correct agricultural technology (timely sowing, fertilizing in autumn with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, and in early spring with nitrogen fertilizers).

How freezing happens
Under the influence of prolonged frosts, plant cells are dehydrated, mechanically damaged by ice formed in the intercellular spaces, and, as a result, the entire plant or its individual parts die.

decay or the thinning of crops, and sometimes the complete death of perennial grasses in winter, do not occur only from freezing. One of the reasons for this phenomenon is the depletion of plants that are under the snow, but continue their life processes as under normal conditions.


Lawn dampening

This phenomenon is observed when snow falls on unfrozen soil in autumn. Having exhausted the reserves of sugars due to more intense respiration at elevated temperatures, not getting water and food from the soil, lacking light under the snow, the plants begin to starve. Particularly affected are thick crops overgrown in autumn and weakly hardened specimens covered with a thick layer of snow.

Losses are also great in cases of formation of an ice crust on the lawn, under which the temperature rises, and the plants continue their vital activity.

Damping can be caused by the development of a cobweb pinkish coating on the leaves of overwintered plants, known as "snow mold". This disease is caused by the Fusarium nivale fungus, which usually develops on weakened plants.

In most cases, the death of grasses from dampness is observed in the lowlands, where excess moisture accumulates in autumn, and too much snow in winter; on wet clay soils that do not freeze deep, and in thickened crops with excessive nitrogen fertilization.

bulging- exposure of tillering nodes and roots of crops of cereal grasses - leads to the death of plants. Such a phenomenon is observed in early spring on waterlogged, structureless, loose and not settled soils during their subsidence, variable freezing and thawing.


lawn bulging

In these cases, the water in the upper layers of the soil freezes, and the resulting ice lifts the soil along with the plants. The roots of grasses, sitting in deep layers that have not thawed, often break off. During subsequent thawing, the earth settles, and the plants remain half-extracted from the soil and dry out.

The cause of bulging is the formation of an ice crust. At the same time, plants freeze into it, and a layer of ice, gradually growing from below, supports the upper layer with plants frozen into it, which are pulled out of the soil. Grasses with shallow tillering nodes, as well as those with only germinal roots, are more susceptible to bulging.

Sowing lawn grasses on settled soil, pre-sowing soil compaction, as well as snow retention make it possible to avoid this undesirable phenomenon.

Lawn care in spring

If a harsh winter, heavy rains or other negative weather events have spoiled the appearance of the lawn, the grass on it has withered and turned yellow, then do not rush to plow the lawn and sow a new one. Try to identify the cause of grass death, which is most often due to improper or insufficient lawn care.

The first step in lawn restoration is combing it with an iron rake. This is done in early spring, after the soil dries out a little, passing the entire area with a rake in two directions at right angles to each other. This opens and ventilates the surface of the lawn.

Sometimes the soil needs more aeration than this is achieved by raking, in this case aerators are used. You can also use a 5-toothed fork: first, they are immersed in the soil to a depth of 15-20 cm and then slightly raise the sod by lightly pressing on the handle. Repeat piercing every 10-15 cm.

This work is accompanied by surface application of mineral fertilizers. A few days after fertilization, seeds are sown in damaged areas.

Preparing your lawn for winter

How to prepare a young lawn for winter? Autumn sowing should be calculated so that the grass leaves before winter with a height of at least 10 cm. This must also be taken into account when lawn mowing. The last time in the outgoing season it is held in central Russia in September. After that, the remains of mowed grass should be removed, and later debris, fallen leaves, branches. Use a garden or fan rake and a hard broom for this.

On heavy clay soils, where water stagnates after rains, the lawn should aerate by piercing the soil to a depth of 10-20 cm in dry weather with garden pitchforks. At the same time, water is diverted to deeper layers of the soil, the roots receive an additional "sip" of oxygen, grasses grow and develop better.

In autumn, after the last haircut and piercing, it’s not bad mulch the lawn. Depending on the type of soil on the site, the composition of mixtures for mulching may be different. On heavy clay soils, a composition of sand, peat, garden soil (5: 2: 3) is used; on light sandy soils, a composition of peat, garden soil and sand (4: 4: 2) is used. If you find it difficult to determine the type of soil on the site, make a mixture of equal parts of peat, sand and garden soil. Mix thoroughly and evenly distribute it over the surface of the lawn at the rate of 2-3 kg/m 2 .

Mulch will help fill in uneven soil that has arisen over the summer and build up a fertile soil layer, which will increase the density of your lawn, as the grasses will have the opportunity to form new side shoots and bush.

The lawn is usually not covered for the winter - there is enough snow. It should not be compacted, compacted. Children and dogs can walk on the snow, play on it only when the height of its cover reaches 20 cm.

When cleaning paths, spread snow over the entire surface of the lawn, do not create shafts next to the paths. On wind-blown areas with a small layer of it, carry out snow retention.

If sleet or rain falls in winter, an ice crust forms. It can lead to suffocation of plants, as oxygen will stop reaching them. The ice crust is easy to destroy with a rake or an ordinary stick.

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It is necessary to take for the restoration of the grass cover immediately, as soon as the snow began to melt. The formation of puddles should not be allowed, which, in turn, will cause local decay of the vegetation cover. It's best to think drainage system at least in the fall, but in the spring it will definitely require correction and restoration.

Ideally, a system for draining excess water should be laid at the stage of preparing the landscape for sowing lawn seeds. If drainage channels are not provided, you need to take a shovel and evenly scatter snow over the area, taking into account its relief.

Important! Trampling unnecessarily on the lawn is prohibited at any time of the year! Eliminating the consequences of the traces left will be very difficult, especially on young lawns.

top dressing

After winter, all plants require enhanced nutrition, and herbs are no exception. It largely depends on how amicably and qualitatively the first, very important growing season will pass.

It is desirable to fertilize three times a year, and the first time this is done in the spring after the melt waters have disappeared.

It is necessary to have time to make the first top dressing before the grass begins to grow. Under the complex influence of fertilizers and the sun, the grass can burn! If this happens, you should make a single plentiful watering.

In spring, the composition is selected in a complex with a predominance of nitrogen. It should also include potassium and phosphorus. Fertilizer consumption rate, unless otherwise indicated on the finished package, at the rate of 30-50 g per 1 sq. m. After that, you need to leave the site for 10 days alone.

Verticulation

After the top layer of the earth is completely dry, you should begin to remove felt and other plant residues from the site. During this time, the fertilizer granules will dissolve in the ground, and nutrition will go to the roots. Verticulation is a vertical processing (piercing) of the surface layer of soil with simultaneous combing out of last year's felt and removal of other plant residues. Its purpose is to restore the soil layer and strengthen vegetation by activating metabolic processes. It is necessary to remove felt not only for aesthetic purposes. It is he who is often a carrier of infections and pests, interferes with the growth of young shoots, promotes the growth of lichens and provokes the development of fungal diseases.

The best way to perform this procedure is with the help of a special garden unit - a verticutter, outwardly similar to a lawn mower. Its rotating shaft is equipped with special steel cutters, scratching, revealing a dense, shriveled top layer of soil. In the absence of a vericutter, combing is carried out using a special rake.

Weed control

Inexperienced gardeners often make the mistake of thinking that the more different herbs growing on the lawn, the better. The lawn will not become thicker from weeds. They suppress the growth of seeded grass, and the appearance of the site leaves much to be desired.

Mechanical way to fight

In this case, weeds have to be removed manually. It is undesirable to use a shovel, you can damage the desired roots. It is best to use a small fork or root extractor. This method is only suitable for small areas.

Chemical way of fighting

In this case, special herbicides come to the rescue, for example, fundazol, ferazim and a number of others available for sale in garden markets.

For processing, you should choose a dry, calm day, it is best to do this in the morning or evening. Remember to protect your hands, face and especially your airways.

Restoration of damaged areas

After the main activities described above are completed, you can begin to restore the lawn. Causes of deterioration appearance can be:

  • Plant diseases.
  • Severe winter frosts.
  • Excess stagnant moisture.
  • Walking around the site - it does not pass without a trace even in the cold season.

It is imperative to understand which of these factors took place in this case. Places of accumulation of excess moisture should be covered with soil until the surface is leveled. Trampled areas are easy to figure out by the darkened cover and the crumpled look of the grass. If it looks lifeless, it is best to remove it and sow it again. If crop diseases are suspected, they should be treated with appropriate chemicals.

If a new overseeding is necessary, try to adhere to the same composition of the seed material so as not to disturb color scheme lawns.

Disease control and prevention

The most common lawn grass troubles:

  • Fusarium.
  • Mold, fungal diseases.
  • Powdery mildew.

The main prevention of fungal infections, the development of mold, lichens and mosses is to prevent waterlogging of the soil. At the first suspicion of their appearance, spraying with iron and blue vitriol. It is especially important to periodically consider shaded places where there is little sun. If suspicious formations are found, they should be removed immediately. In advanced cases, it is necessary to remove part of the soil, replace it with a new one and sow it with new seeds.

Spring aeration will help reduce these risks, do not neglect it, especially in low-lying, flood areas.

When removing diseased soil, also grab healthy soil to prevent the spread of infection and the growth of harmful microorganisms.

Spring struggle with uninvited "guests"

In full force, they will appear only in the summer, but preventive measures against ants, moles, bears and other uninvited guests should be taken in the spring. If possible, it is necessary to mulch using peat mixtures. For a targeted fight against specific pests, you need to immediately buy and place sound repellers of underground inhabitants, mole traps, windmills, etc. on the site. If last year all the beauty of the landscape was spoiled by anthills, you can process it with Akkelik.

Watering is best done in the evening so that moisture is absorbed overnight. Otherwise, most of it will simply evaporate.

First haircut

After all the preparatory activities are completed, it remains only to wait for the grass to grow up in order to make the first haircut of the new season. It should be sparing, leaving at least 5 cm of stem height so that the sun does not burn the bare tender greens. In subsequent times, it will be possible to cut it lower.

And now you just need to leave the lawn alone, giving it the opportunity to grow quietly. Timely moderate watering and a haircut is almost all that is needed to please the eye with its even emerald green and become thicker, softer and more beautiful year after year.