Natural farming at the dacha. Natural farming in the garden plot: features of organic farming, the Mittlider method. e) Protection of plants from the wind
Traditionally, the farmer's job was to plow (or dig up) the land, fertilize it, and sow seeds. Then - to weed and loosen, and in the fall - to harvest. And it would seem that here you can still come up with - it has been customary from time immemorial, this is how our ancestors did ... But modern man inquisitive and prone to finding new ways, and therefore now there are many alternative methods agriculture.
Their supporters sometimes argue to the point of hoarseness, defending the advantages of their approach - but we will not argue. Everyone is free to choose what is close to him, what seems more correct, effective, reasonable - right? Only sometimes we know too little about possible alternatives, and therefore our choice is limited.
Fortunately, this can be fixed: I hope that today's review will be part of a larger discussion; I hope to hear the opinions of those who have tested certain methods in practice and received results. Tell us what rules and principles you adhere to and why? In the meantime, let's see what options exist...
organic farming
It is also called natural - the followers of this method "peeped" many approaches to tillage from nature itself. There is even such a term - "natural agriculture", that is, the cultivation of the soil in accordance with natural, natural principles.
Today, this technique is very popular and, of course, deserves a separate discussion. But within the framework of our review, we will have to limit ourselves to only summary its core essence. So...
Basic principles of organic (natural) farming
1. Do not dig the earth. The use of this technique allows only shallow (up to 5-7 cm) loosening of the soil. A shovel is not needed - it is replaced by a flat cutter.2. Do not use mineral fertilizers. Only organic matter is used in its various types and forms: compost and others organic fertilizers; sowing green manure; construction of warm ridges and so on.
3. Avoid the use of pesticides. The priority is the prevention of plant diseases and the appearance of pests. If it was not possible to prevent the problem, only biological preparations and folk methods.
4. Take worms and beneficial microorganisms as helpers. EM preparations activate the activity of soil microorganisms. Those, in turn, accelerate the decomposition of organic matter, helping to increase soil fertility. Worms, processing organic waste, produce vermicompost - a useful and environmentally friendly fertilizer.
What is the purpose and meaning of the method
Our ancestors did not think about the ecological purity of products on their table - for us this problem has become relevant. One of the goals of organic (natural) farming is get natural vegetables and fruits, obviously free from all sorts of "chemistry".
The second goal is improve soil fertility. In principle, proponents of traditional methods of fertilizing pursue the same goal. But the ideology of organic farming is not to remake nature, but to help it, so soil fertility is restored through agricultural practices and natural means: organic mulch, green manure, biological products, and so on.
Finally, the third - important for many - goal is to make farming easier. It is no secret that the use of traditional tillage methods is associated with rather hard physical work. Not everyone can do it - and organic farming technologies can really reduce the effort and time spent on the beds.
How it looks in practice, let's see in the plot of the program Successful tips:
And if you want to delve deeper into the essence of the method, listen to what Boris Andreevich Bublik said about agriculture in harmony with nature (lecture in Ufa)
Read also about the experience and rules of natural farming:
Farming according to Mittlider
Jacob Mittlider, an American doctor of agricultural sciences, developed a crop production system known to many as "Mittleider's narrow ridges." It is difficult to describe these technologies, as well as organic farming, in a nutshell. Back in the 90s of the last century, I myself experimented a little with the Mittlider method - then the overseas method interested me very much. But let's leave the details for a separate conversation and see what the idea is based on.Basic principles and rules of agriculture according to Mittlider
1. Landing on narrow ridges. These can be specially arranged long ridges with sides made of soil or narrow ridges-boxes. Plants are planted on them more densely than we are used to, but due to the wide passages between the ridges, their optimal illumination is ensured.2. The principle of a balanced diet. Unlike organic farming, mineral fertilizers are actively used in this technique. From them, balanced mixtures are prepared according to special recipes. Sometimes even the soil on the ridges is replaced by a neutral substrate, into which the necessary nutrients are added.
The Mittlider method welcomes the use of mineral fertilizers
Special technologies are provided for both seed treatment and seedling cultivation. The method is applied as in open field, as well as in greenhouses.
What is the purpose and meaning of the method
Jacob Mittlider himself is familiar with agricultural labor firsthand, and therefore his goal was make work on the ground easier, to make harvesting less time-consuming and burdensome.The second task is increase productivity. This goal is served by the principle of balanced nutrition, which allows, in a limited area with dense planting of crops, to achieve their rapid growth, early and abundant fruiting.
The following video will show you what this method might look like in practice.
We applied certain methods of natural farming on our personal plot when they still lived in the city in their house. Then there were individual successes in certain cultures. But it was not possible to achieve a full-fledged harvest, due to a lack of attention and, most importantly, as I understand now, from a lack of integrity in understanding the issue of agriculture.
And only when we started to “apply the whole range of natural farming methods” did we begin to receive a more or less full-fledged crop of vegetable crops in our garden. I repeat my thought: individual techniques work on their own, but a full-fledged result can be obtained by applying the whole range of developments.
We process only the upper 5-7 cm of the soil, that is, we do not dig the ground! Digging, as well as the turnover of the layer during mechanical plowing, leads to mixing of soil layers. And then the soil microorganisms of the upper layer, aerobic (breathing), are embedded deep into the soil, and the deep "inhabitants", anaerobic (non-breathing), are placed above, this leads to the destruction of both. When digging, a lot of worms are also “cut off”. So why dig if it destroys the main "prospectors" of the soil (microorganisms and worms), which precisely form the fertile soil humus. Also, digging violates the natural porous structure of the soil. There is only one answer: DO NOT DIG! We cultivate the soil with a Fokin flat cutter, a hoe. With a garden pitchfork, if desired, you can “loosen” dense areas without turning the ground over.
Covering the soil with mulch(thick layer of organic matter), this allows you to retain valuable moisture in the soil in summer, prevents the growth of "weeds", is a fertilizer, promotes the activity of soil microorganisms, and also protects the soil from freezing in winter. As you can see there are many pluses. The meaning is the following, in nature the soil is always covered! For example, in the forest with foliage, in the meadow with plant residues. We do the same. All beds all year round we are covered with hay, wood chips, sawdust, cardboard, we use everything that is at hand!
We use green manure plants. Siderates are fast-growing plants with a developed root system. We apply to structuring, deep loosening of the soil. Some of them enrich the soil useful substances(beans). Green manure tops are embedded in the soil as fertilizer or go to mulch. For example, my mother, with enthusiasm, talks about her experience of planting mustard (green manure) in the garden, immediately after harvest. He says that in the spring on these beds, even without digging, the land is surprisingly loose and fertile.
Mulched beds, in this form, go into the winter.
Crop rotation. Every season we change the place for planting crops, that is, we change the purpose of the beds. Why? Because plants in the process of life produce substances that are poisonous for the same crop, that is, this is how plants fight competitors of their own species.
Mixed landings. We try to plant different cultures together. We are moving away from monoculture, with all its shortcomings (competition, pests). Different plants have roots of different lengths, the peak of activity in different time they need different nutrients. Therefore, they do not compete, but often contribute to the creation of favorable conditions for their "neighbor". There are very successful classic combinations: onions with carrots; marigolds planted next to cabbage scare away insect pests; phacelia interspersed with potatoes reduces the population of the Colorado potato beetle, etc.
We do not use any synthetic fertilizers, poisons, growth accelerators, etc. These additives violate the natural balance, are poisonous to all living organisms, including humans.
The use of natural microorganisms, dressings. We liked to use homemade top dressing, make an infusion of herbs. It's simple, we fill a 50-liter barrel with water, put the tops of plants there, more nettles, a little wormwood, any herbs you want ... We put it in the sun. After a few days (readiness is determined by the pungent smell), the infusion of natural microorganisms and herbal pomace with nutrients is ready. It should be used additionally diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. Spilling our beds with this solution, we noticed a noticeable increase in plants, they began to look stronger and healthier.
What is the benefit of using these methods?
Firstly, healthy living soil is formed: structured, with many soil channels. In the beds under the mulch, the soil is loose, soft, moist even on hot dry days, it is teeming with life, a huge number of microorganisms, insects and worms. This year, we practically did not water our beds, it all came down to a strait with top dressing several times a season. From year to year, the soil becomes more fertile and the layer of humus increases! And then the essence of land-making is fully revealed (to make land!)
Secondly, less work: no digging, no watering. We weed much less, because there are fewer weeds. Yes, and we have a different attitude towards weeds, they are more “employees” of the garden, more often they do not interfere, at least until they obviously begin to crush the “cultivated plant”. There are fewer pests, and therefore the hassle associated with them.
Thirdly, we get full-fledged, healthy, tasty fruits that are well stored, due to the absence of diseases in them.
As well as a decrease in sown areas with a constant increase in the quantity and quality of the crop!
“Weed grass” is not destroyed, but controlled. In moderation, it does not interfere.
We try to use sustainable, time-tested plant varieties. Zoned, folk selection and from trusted suppliers. We do not use hybrid seeds, we create our own seed fund.
- To process virgin soil for future beds, a "chicken tractor" was used. In the summer, chickens live and graze on the virgin lands in a mobile paddock, eat vegetation, fertilize the soil, and partially loosen it. Then we move the chickens further, and loosen 5 cm on the prepared soil, mulch and the bed is ready.
- Holzer recommends building reservoirs on the site, water reservoirs according to the natural type. Lake or pond. They will contribute to an increase in the level of groundwater in the area, humidity during the dry season, and stabilize the temperature during short-term frosts. That is, reservoirs create favorable conditions for a garden and a kitchen garden. So we dug a pond and a lake in the estate last year.
– We create various microclimatic zones on the site. Near the reservoirs, protective earthen ramparts (ridges) were built from the excavated soil, 1.5 and 3 m high.
Now, on terraces, slopes of ridges (especially the southern slope), and coastal zones, warm or humid, windless favorable conditions have been created for the growth of the corresponding plants.
Season 2013
The first beds on the estate began to be planted in the autumn of 2011, and in 2012 they continued to increase the area of crops. We have a large plot - 1.5 hectares. In the first year of development, the question arose: where is it better to place a garden? You need to find the zone of greatest vegetation. That is, the place where the most lush vegetation, tall, strong grass. The vegetables will grow well there.
In the past gardening season of 2013, we set ourselves the task of providing ourselves with the main vegetable crops for the summer and root crops for the winter, in order to exclude the purchase of vegetables to the maximum. We have prepared several new beds, we are making stationary beds, with passages between them. The peculiarity of our site is that it is located on virgin lands, a former hayfield. There are ravines that collect flood waters on the estate. Lowland, the place is quite humid, there are mature trees along the ravines on the site. The garden is located next to summer kitchen and home, in the zone of permanent residence of people.
There are observations: in Bashkortostan last years hot and dry, in the second half of summer there is practically no precipitation. Therefore, beds with root crops located in partial shade (sun in the morning, shade in the afternoon) gave the best result, since they did not dry out in the heat.
In spring and autumn, the estate continued planting fruit shrubs and trees, planting hedges along the border of the site.
This year we tried to implement all the methods of Natural Farming recommended above in a complex. And it "worked" - the harvest was received and they worked with interest. We observed all stages of plant germination, because we live in the estate all the time.
All summer they ate cucumbers, tomatoes, greens, new potatoes, carrots. For the winter, they prepared pumpkin, turnips, potatoes, carrots, beets, radishes, swedes. And we received all these gifts without much hassle.
The son demonstrates the summer harvest.
Our daily diet now includes dishes from our own vegetables! We get great pleasure from the gifts of the earth. And the most important thing is that the work goes on for the future, because the soil is becoming more and more fertile, and ready to give high yields.
Albert Ibatullin,
settlement of family estates (village) "Chik-Elga",
Republic of Bashkortostan
Virgin processing. In the first year in advance (or in early spring, as soon as the snow has melted) we cover with mulch up to 50 cm, we mainly use hay. In May, we rake the mulch to the side and process the upper 5-7 cm with a hoe, loosen it. If necessary, we “loosen” dense areas with a pitchfork. Everything, the soil is ready! We use mulch again on this bed.
Transplanting. We push the mulch, make a hole, plant a bush. We tightly shift the mulch around the stem, in a thick layer of 20-30 cm. It is not necessary to water, as a rule, it is wet under the mulch. Feed two or three times in June with an infusion of herbs, then observe if it is wet under the mulch - no need to water.
Planting seeds. The bed is already covered with mulch 15-20 cm thick. We push the mulch apart, in rows, and make grooves. In the aisles, we press the mulch (hay) well. We sow. Even if the furrow dries up, in the aisles under the mulch it is wet.
Planting large seeds. Garlic, onion sets, beans, beans, peas, sunflower. We dig the mulch, stick a seed.
Potato. We plant under hay, directly on the surface of the earth or even on a layer of mulch. We cover the tubers with a thick layer on top, as they germinate, we again add mulch around the bushes.
weeds. There are few weeds in the cultivated soil, under the mulch, but you need to watch that they do not grow too much. If you feel that they are starting to interfere with your plantings, cut them with a flat cutter or by hand and leave them there as mulch.
Autumn tillage. After harvesting, the beds are again covered with mulch. If desired, previously, the soil can be loosened with a flat cutter.
Agrotechnics of such agriculture is aimed at respect for the earth, as to a living organism, to improve fertility through the return of organic matter, sideration, mulching, crop rotation, as well as to obtain natural, environmentally friendly food without the use of chemical fertilizers and plant protection products.
And the technologists of organic farming promise us large yields with less labor costs than in classical farming.
But is everything as simple as the leading masters and propagandists of organic farming tell us?
Organic farming in the country
When we first decided to put organic farming into practice in the country, we were naive people, like everyone else, we needed the same safe food, and at the same time we had little free time, but a great desire to grow plants. Therefore, we shoveled through a lot of literature to find out what it is: organic farming in the country and where to start mastering it. All this we had to understand and comprehend. And we immediately set to work on an exciting and good thing: organic farming from scratch.
They took for use 12 acres of land near Odessa, which no one had cultivated for several years. Of these, 2 acres were under trees and shrubs, 1 acre was under strawberries, and the remaining 9 acres were densely covered with weeds, so virgin lands had to be developed. Lights ahead of us noble purpose: we implement careful and love relationship to the land, which is called in the literature "Organic farming in the country".
First, weeds were mowed, then the site was planned, dividing it into paths and beds. On the beds, surface treatment (loosening) was carried out to a depth of no more than 5 cm, as recommended in books. Sowed seeds, planted seedlings and mulched.
Plantings were, as expected, thickened and planned taking into account the allelopathic properties of neighboring plants. A week later, the first shoots appeared, and then the weeds, which had to be broken through manually, since Fokin's flat cutter did not work on the mulch. And so several times a season.
We spent a lot of time and effort, but there was no result. Of those planted, about 7% of cultivated plants survived, which, to put it mildly, gave a modest harvest, or rather, there was almost none (not counting 5 carrots and 5 watermelons weighing 100 g each).
Nevertheless, we continued to work, as we fell in love with working on the ground and in the fresh air. And the experience gained was very useful.
Today we practice organic farming in the country on two hectares of land, where we harvest tons. We also maintain several forest garden nurseries. We work according to the system of "Organic agroforestry-horticulture".
And the question "how to grow?" is no longer relevant, now the question is “what to do with the harvest?”
Well, now we will tell you everything in order, how you really need to start organic farming in the country from scratch, and not what they say in books or at seminars. In life, it turns out, not quite the same as on the pages of books. But how does everything actually happen in organic farming?
Harvest of Alexei and Nadezhda Chernyavsky Myths of organic farming
1: "The earth cannot be stirred."
We have called the process by which the earth does not turn 'the feralization of the soil'. And this means that so many insects, animals and weeds start up in it that they do not allow more than a single plant to grow and bear fruit. cultivated plant. That's natural farming for you! In addition, if you have virgin soil on your site, then once you have to plow it, since virgin soil cannot be defeated manually. And after the first plowing, you can work the soil superficially. Then there will be watermelons and corn.
Output: a cultivated plant needs cultivated soil and appropriate care!
2: "Mulched plants do not need to be watered."
After many experiments, we came to the conclusion that mulch does retain moisture, but not for long, especially in dry places. Therefore, if you want to get a harvest by practicing organic farming in the country, then moisture-loving plants will have to be watered, even if they are mulched, it will just need to be done less often. .
3: "Mulch all plants so that there is no bare ground in the garden."
In fact, not all plants like mulch. So, for corn, watermelons, melons, peanuts and chufa, mulch is unacceptable. These cultures love "hot and clean land." In addition, corn, peanuts and chufa need hilling, which is very difficult to do if there is mulch on the ground.
Output: using organic farming in the country, it is certainly necessary to mulch, but selectively. Cover the ground only around those plants that really like it (tomatoes, cucumbers, strawberries, etc.)
4: "Organic farming for the lazy."
Many have heard the old proverb “Without labor, you can’t even catch a fish from a pond”, no one has yet canceled it. And for people for whom organic farming in the country has become a matter of life, he knows exactly what this proverb is about. As we found out If you want results, then you have to work hard! Loosen beds, plant seeds, extract and lay mulch, break through and weed weeds, hill, stepchild, water, harvest and process crops, in the end, and all this is work! It is worth succumbing to laziness - and you will not see a full-fledged harvest!
Output: Who works, he eats.
5: "Common and dense plantings repel insect pests and attract insect predators » .
Fast, efficient, convenient and environmentally friendly, and therefore safe
Output: You need to combine beds with crops, not crops in the garden.
6: "Biological plant protection products are better and safer than chemical ones."
We do not use either one or the other. To date, humanity is already reaping the benefits of the use of chemistry in agriculture(killed lands, mutant insects, dead bees, food poisoning and allergies in humans, polluted waters of the oceans, etc.). And we still don't know what results biological preparations will bring us, because this is a matter of time. Remember when the market appeared chemicals protection, people were very happy about this, it seemed to them that the problem was solved. But they struggled with the consequences, but the cause - monoculture, remained. Today people rejoice in biological preparations! And what will happen tomorrow?
Output: practicing organic farming in the country, we avoid the use of any drugs.
Chemical and biological means of protection have detrimental consequences for the ecology of the entire planet and every person. No one knows how it will end, not even scientists!
7: "Do this - and everything will be like ours"
Another sophisticated lie that gullible farmers fall for. In the course of our numerous experiments and on the basis of the experience gained, we have come to the conclusion that nothing is the same in nature! And, repeating the experiment, it is unlikely to get exactly the same result. Even on the same bed, with the same agricultural technology, using the same farming, the same fertilizer, mulching, green manure, the same plants bear fruit in different ways.
There are different soils, different climates, microclimates, etc. in the world. Even the attitude and mood of the person working with the plant, using exclusively natural farming, plays a huge role and can affect the result! In general, you do not need to wait for the results the same as in the pictures promoting organic farming in the country, and then, if the result does not match, disappointment will not discourage you from moving on!
Love your land, study its specifics and character, observe - and draw your own conclusions with good thoughts. Don't believe, check. And then organic farming in the country will justify itself, and you will definitely succeed!
Personal experience of an experienced gardener
How do most gardeners sow in the beds? Usually, “how everyone does it” and how convenient it is for the owner of the site. And it would be better to sow the way the plants need! This is the principle of organic farming - to do as in nature. It turns out it's much more efficient. Yields are getting higher and work is getting smaller! Doubt it's possible? Check it out in the new season!
Usually the process of planting (sowing) looks like this: digging the earth - leveling the surface of the beds - cutting grooves - sowing (laying) seeds in them - filling the grooves with earth from their side walls - watering.
As a result:
Too much effort is spent, since digging is a very laborious process;
Soil fertility is lost (its air-water permeability is violated, since the porous structure of the earth, created by channels and voids, formed in place of already decayed roots and worm passages, is destroyed;
Soil microorganisms perish, processing plant residues into food for plants;
The grooves cut for sowing have a variable depth, as a result of which the seeds also lie at different depths. This leads to their germination and oppression of weaker late shoots by early ones;
The rows of germinated seeds are tortuous. Because of this, the row width is different, and it is larger than that of a flat line. As a result, weeding is difficult. This is because it is impossible to cut straight narrow grooves (even with flat cutters), and also due to the displacement of seeds already in the ground when they are watered after planting;
Few gardeners know that plants grow better if the seeds (as in nature) lie on dense, naturally porous soil, and a loose, loose “blanket” (mulch) covers them from above. Then best conditions for plant growth, because in the dense underlying soil, due to the capillary effect, soil moisture is constantly supplied to the seeds (it is not in vain that they compact the earth with rolls before sowing wheat); and from above (through the mulch) air constantly enters.
How to ensure the same conditions? You can repeat a theory a thousand times and not convince anyone. I will tell you about my experience, which I have been using for more than one year.
1. I don’t dig up the soil, but only loosen it by 5-7 cm with a Fokin flat cutter (without bending my back and with much less effort).
2. Combine this loosening of the soil with proactive weed control, as long as it is not “interfered” by the growing plants. it is known that with regular mowing (or mowing with a chopper), weeds degenerate; it is enough to mow them before planting 2-3 times, coming to the dacha once a week, so that the weeds become much smaller. At the same time, I spend no more than 10-15 minutes on such a “passage” of a ten-meter bed with a Fokin flat cutter.
3. I water the loosened bed ... before planting.
4. Then I push the grooves in wet soil with one or 2-3 slats, hammered together by crossbars. The distance between the slats is equal to the distance between the future rows of plants and slightly more than the length of the blade of a small flat cutter. This allows me in the future (before the grass) to loosen and weed the aisles with one movement of the flat cutter underground along the rows.
5. I spill the grooves with a solution of biopreparations "Siyania-2" or "Vostok EM-1" at a concentration of 1: 1000 (a tablespoon per 10 liters of water) - to restore the capillarity of the soil, increase its fertility and sanitize it from pathogens.
6. I sow the seeds into the grooves pressed through by the slats.
7. I fill them with compost - and ... I don’t water them!
At first glance, this technology takes longer. And you reread it. How much use is in this technique, and how much we did “at the same time”: they cut down the weeds with a flat cutter, and compacted the rows for sowing, and launched EM-beneficial microorganisms into the soil ...
As a result, we get what we were striving for - the seeds lie “along the line” and at the same depth, on a hard, wet bed, covered on top with “loose” compost, in which there is also plenty of nutrition! And the fight against weeds is facilitated - they are exhausted in advance. And I suppress the rest, covering them in the aisles of grown plants with a layer of 5-7 cm mulch so that light does not pass through it. As mulch - chopped grass. In addition, the grass, while decomposing, feeds the plants + it is not necessary to water it often, since the evaporation of moisture decreases + it is not necessary to loosen the soil under the mulch (a crust does not form after rains and watering).
Conclusion: less work, and higher yields. What is required!
Watch nature
Finally, I want to remind you of the wise advice: “trust, but verify!” Adapt to the conditions of your site!
On my "sand" I water the bed before pushing the grooves, and on clay soil this technique can lead to sticking of clay to the rail and uneven grooves. In this case, you need to be pre-moist, but not sticky.
Use any advice ”wisely”! And even better - learn from the "smartest" - from nature! Check with her, copy her - she is wiser than any adviser!
Are you still fighting weeds and pests in the country, earning yourself sciatica? But adherents of organic farming prefer to be friends with nature, rather than fight. But in order to live the same way, you will have to start with a radical change in the way of thinking about the purpose of agriculture, about what is the “correct” garden.
Organic farming as a branch of agricultural technology has emerged since the end of the 19th century, and rumors, disputes and discussions around this method of cultivating the land still do not subside. There are also many approaches and theories within the adherents of this direction of agriculture. But the essence is the same: organic farming is, first of all, a careful, sparing attitude to nature, maintaining the natural balance and ecosystems, refusing to use mineral fertilizers and pesticides.
Organic farming has many interchangeable definitions, synonymous terms: natural, ecological, biological, natural, life-giving farming.
Basic principles of organic farming:
- Refusal of plowing, digging of the earth. In this way, it is believed that a healthy balance of the soil ecosystem is maintained. And healthy soil means healthy plants that can resist diseases and pests.
- Growing environmentally friendly products. Complete rejection of the use of mineral fertilizers and pesticides. Weed and pest control methods are reduced to the prevention and use of herbal, folk methods.
- The ground must always be covered with vegetation. They are widely used here - fast-growing crops, planted after the main crops on temporarily empty land.
- Less laborious processing of the site, giving with a larger and better result. Farming is fun, not hard work.
Natural farming guru
"Relieve your ardor, gardener!" - with these words, as a rule, the well-known author of many books on biological farming B.A. begins his appeal at lectures to gardeners. Bagel. In the traditional idea of the “correct” garden, many summer residents see such an exemplary garden: ideal even beds and rows of crops, not a single weed, and also a lot of hard work.
All these myths are debunked by fans of ecological farming. They believe that labor does not have to be slavish and exhausting. And it is much more useful for both humans and nature to maintain the natural order of things in the ecosystem. “Spy” on nature, learn from it, apply the acquired knowledge and observations on your own suburban area.
Advice. If you decide to move away from traditional farming to natural farming, for inspiration, we recommend reading several books on the topic: One Straw Revolution by Masanobu Fukooka; "Agrarian revolutionary" Sepp Holzer; "About the garden for the thrifty and lazy" Bublik B.A.
So, Sepp Holzer has 45 hectares of land and cultivates it alone with his wife with a minimum of agricultural machinery: he has only one tractor. B.A. Bublik believes that steel has no place in the garden and refuses shovels, choppers, does not even loosen the soil with a pitchfork, but puts it “under the stick”, watering it only with ice water (not higher than 9 degrees). And the author of many works on natural farming, G. Kizima, well-known in Russia, preaches three “not”: do not dig, do not weed, do not water.
Practice natural farming in spring and autumn
You can switch from traditional to organic farming at any time of the year. One of the main methods of biological farming is the rejection of deep digging of the earth. It is believed that by raising the layer of earth more than 5 cm, the ecosystem is thereby disturbed. The earth eventually becomes poorer, with beneficial microorganisms, beetles, worms, etc. appearing in insufficient quantities. Which leads in the future to the need to use mineral fertilizers, which are harmful to both nature and humans.
Natural farming allows you to get environmentally friendly vegetables and fruits The soil for sowing the crop is not dug up, but slightly raised with a pitchfork (ideally no more than 2.5 cm). Some farmers do not even use a pitchfork, but put them under the stick. That is, they stick a stick into the ground and plant seeds or seedlings in place of the formed hole. After sowing, the land is mulched with straw, sawdust, peat, rotted compost, etc.
Advice. For planting plants “under a stick”, you can use a stalk from a shovel or another stick that is convenient for working along the length. To do this, she sharpens the end with a cone, which will be stuck into the ground. For convenience, you can also make a handle at the top of the stick, and a limiter pedal at the bottom.
Due to the active use of mulch, which does not allow moisture to evaporate, watering is done much less frequently. Mulch is also one of the main ways to control weeds. But it is better to use mulching on proven crops: potatoes, strawberries, cucumbers, tomatoes. There are plants that "do not favor" mulching, preferring open and hot soil: corn, watermelons, melons.
With the help of mulching, the land is cultivated on virgin soil. To do this, prepare the beds in the fall as follows:
- They mow the grass.
- They fall asleep with manure: horse, chicken.
- Lay a layer of mulch, for example, straw with a layer of 30 cm.
- In the spring, remove the layer of mulch, select the remaining weed roots with your hands and plant seeds or seedlings.
You can also cover the beds with dense material, for example: roofing material, pieces of linoleum. It is useful to cover a layer of mulch with a film on top - this will speed up the process of overheating and decay of the weed on virgin soil.
All listed actions can be applied in the country, both in spring and autumn.
Siderates are our everything
One of the agricultural practices, which is an integral part of biological farming, is the planting of green manure on temporarily empty land. According to many farmers, these crops are the best natural fertilizer. For these purposes, such fast-growing and micronutrient-rich plants are used, such as:
- legumes;
- mustard;
- Clover;
- colza;
- spring rapeseed;
- rye.
Green manure can be planted in spring, summer and autumn. In spring, such fast-growing and frost-resistant plants are planted as: mustard, rape, phacelia. They are sown very early and grow until it is time to plant the main crop. Then the green manure is cut with a flat cutter a few centimeters below ground level, and the main plants are planted in the soil prepared in this way. Tops, stems can be used as a shelter for beds with crops.
In autumn, rye and mustard are most often sown. Sowing is done after harvesting vegetables. Rye is harvested at the end of autumn, cutting the stems at the base. And the mustard goes under the snow. In the spring, it is cut with a flat cutter and the main crops are planted.
Organic farming is an environmentally friendly production based on respect for nature and human health. There are many techniques and methods of natural farming. But, in any case, each site is individual. There are no absolutely identical sites in terms of soil composition, microclimate, and list of planted crops. What fans of organic farming do not get tired of repeating is: “Listen, look at your land, your plants. And put the acquired knowledge into practice. Nature must be trusted always, every day.”
Natural farming: video
