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Gourds: how to grow melon, pumpkin, watermelon. Agricultural business: growing gourds in the open field and in greenhouses The sequence of growth and fruiting of gourds

Growing early harvest gourds is achieved by introducing early ripening varieties into the culture, using different methods of pre-sowing preparation of seeds, placing crops on the southern slopes, growing seedlings, mulching crops with synthetic materials, using temporary film shelters, growing gourds in protected ground.

Growing an early harvest in open field seedling way. This method makes it possible to grow ripe fruits in open ground 10-20 days earlier and increase their yield by 26-50%, especially in the first days of harvest.

The seedling method of growing gourds in open ground is effective in all areas of the country. In the south, this method makes it possible to obtain ripe fruits from open ground as early as early July, and in the western regions and in Polissya it is possible to successfully grow these crops, where watermelons and melons do not always ripen when sown with seeds directly into the soil.

Growing seedlings of gourds for open ground. Seedlings of melons and gourds are grown in greenhouses, which are released after seedlings of early cabbage, early green crops and in film greenhouses. Plants of gourds are difficult to transplant, so seedlings are grown in pots, bulk containers or in cassettes.

The composition of the soil mixture depends on the availability of local materials, which include humus, peat, sod land, mullein, sawdust. In the presence of peat, the components of the soil mixture are: three parts of peat, one part of sawdust, 0.5 parts of mullein, diluted with water in a ratio of 1:4. For 1 m 3 of soil mixture, 1 kg of ammonium nitrate, 1 kg of potassium chloride and 2 kg of superphosphate are added. Dolomite flour or chalk, in the case of using peat, is added to bring the pH to 6.5. In areas where peat is absent, a mixture of humus and soddy soil in a ratio of 3: 1 is used to make pots. For 1 m 3 of the mixture add 5-10% mullein and mineral fertilizers - 3 kg of superphosphate, 1 kg of ammonium nitrate and 0.5 kg of potassium sulfate.

The highest yields of cheap early production of melons are given by watermelon plants planted with 30-day seedlings, and melons - with 20-day-old seedlings. Younger seedlings do not give the expected effect, and 40- and 45-day-old seedlings after transplantation are sick for a long time. Pots should be 8x8 or 10 x 10 cm.

Seeds are sown in pots in such a way that at the time of planting the plants pass the threat of frost and warm weather is established with a soil temperature of about 14 ° C. In the central part of the country, this period begins on May 15 - 20, in the left-bank Forest-Steppe - on May 20 - 25, in the south - on May 5 - 10. Therefore, the timing of sowing seeds, taking into account the germination period, respectively, fall on 10-15, 15-20 and 1-5 April. Seedlings after sowing under optimal conditions appear on the 3-5th day. Before sowing, the seeds are carefully prepared and sown in each pot, 2-3 pecked or dry seeds to a depth of 3-4 cm. After that, the pots are watered with warm water (24-25 ° C). During seed germination, the temperature should be 25 - 30 °C. With the advent of seedlings, it is reduced over 3-4 days to 16-18 ° C. In the next period, the optimum temperature during the cultivation of seedlings of watermelons and melons is 20-25 ° C during the day, and 16-18 ° C at night. Seedlings are watered with moderately warm water. Relative humidity should be 60 - 70%. Sown seeds and seedlings can be damaged by mice, bears and other pests. To combat them, poisoned baits are buried in the soil.

After 5 - 6 days after the emergence of seedlings in pots, excess plants are removed, pinching them and leaving the most developed one at a time. Two weeks after the emergence of seedlings, the plants are fed with a solution of bird droppings (1: 15) or mullein (2: 10) with the addition of 30 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium sulfate per 10 l of a solution. 5-7 days before planting, seedlings are fed with a solution of mineral fertilizers (10-15 g of ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate and 40-50 g of superphosphate in 10 liters of water for 80-100 plants). In addition, 4-5 days before planting, the seedlings are hardened, gradually increasing ventilation, reducing watering and lowering the temperature to 17-18 ° C. Seedlings suitable for planting after the formation of 3 - 4 true leaves. Before planting, it is well watered, after which it is planted manually, with pouring water into the holes or furrows, or by transplanting machines SKN-6A according to the schemes adopted in the case of growing from seeds. Under irrigation conditions, 2-3 irrigations are carried out after planting seedlings. Further care consists in loosening the row spacing, weeding between plants and removing weeds, protecting plants from pests and diseases.

For the cultivation of gourds in seedlings, the most early-ripening varieties are used.

Cultivation of early products under temporary film shelters. An effective method for obtaining an early harvest of gourds is mulching crops with light or dark ordinary or perforated polyethylene film or agrofiber and the use of temporary small-sized frame and frameless shelters. Mulching with plastic film creates a favorable temperature regime in the soil and the subsoil air layer, contributes to the rapid and friendly emergence of seedlings and plant development, which ensures an increase in the overall and especially early harvest. In addition, in areas mulched with film, weed control is facilitated, since it suppresses their development, and moisture loss from evaporation is significantly reduced.

Mulching is carried out after sowing. The film is spread over the sown rows, and the edges are sprinkled with earth. After the emergence of shoots of melons in the film, holes are made to reach the surface of the film of plants. The film as a mulch is left for the entire growing season and removed after harvesting the cultivated crop. Sowing with the use of mulch is carried out 2-3 weeks earlier than the accepted dates for sowing in open ground.

The seedling method of growing melons with shelter contributed to obtaining earlier production with a yield of 135 centners per hectare, which is 80 centners per hectare higher than without shelter, and 31 centners per hectare more than when growing without seedlings with shelter. The total yield in seedling cultivation with shelter was 174 centners/ha, which was 42 centners/ha higher than without cover, and 53 centners/ha higher than in seedlingless cultivation.

At this same experimental station, I.S. Semchak and G.I. Kirilov studied the effect of seedling age on the yield of melon variety Early 133. The seedlings were grown in peat pots 8 x 8 cm in size, the soil mixture for falling asleep in pots consisted of humus, peat and soddy soil in a ratio of 2:1:1. Seedlings were used at the age of 15, 25, 35 days, for the cultivation of which, respectively, for additional heating of film greenhouses (per 1000 pieces), 432.5, 852.6, 1245.4 kWh of electricity were used.

To grow an early crop, the site was placed on a slope with a fertile, light-textured soil. The predecessor is winter wheat. Soil cultivation consisted in stubble stubble cultivation in two directions with heavy disc harrow BDT-3. After 2 - 3 weeks, 50 t / ha were applied organic fertilizers and carried out plowing to a depth of 27 - 30 cm with a plow with skimmers. After plowing diagonally across the fields, planning was carried out, and a month later, across the plowing, non-moldboard plowing to a depth of 35 cm was carried out. In winter, snow retention was carried out. In early spring, the soil was harrowed, then cultivation was carried out to a depth of 12-14 cm, and before planting seedlings, chiselling to a depth of 22 cm.

Across the chiselling the day before planting the seedlings, earth rolls 25–30 cm high were cut with a special machine of the NDIOG design, with a distance of 140 cm between them. by means of an NDIOG design machine, they covered it with a plastic film. Film consumption per 1 ha was 550 kg. The film was used with a web width of 140-150 cm and a thickness of 0.08-0.1 mm

Seedlings were planted under conditions Donetsk region in the third decade of April - the first decade of May. Seedlings, depending on age, had different biometric indicators (Table 15).

The root system of 15-day-old seedlings was inside the pot for the planting period, while in 35-day-old seedlings it went beyond its borders and was injured during the selection, transportation and planting of seedlings, which reduced its survival rate by 7%. Phenological observations showed that by the phase of mass flowering, plants of seedlings of 15 days of age were 2-3 days behind in development compared to seedlings of 35 days of age, but the first harvest of fruits was simultaneous. Plants of 15-day-old seedlings had 1.5-2 times less shoots and leaves, and the length of each shoot and the assimilating surface of leaves were 2-2.5 times greater compared to 35-day-old seedlings.

Seedlings of 15 and 25 days of age provided a greater increase in yield compared to seedlings of 35 days of age (Table 16).

The lowest cost of the harvest was when using 15-day-old seedlings.

Consequently, 15-day-old seedlings are not inferior to 25- and 35-day-old seedlings over the total yield; its advantage also lies in the fact that 2-3 times less electricity is spent on its cultivation.

Seedlings of watermelons and melons are grown for 30-35 days until 4-5 true leaves are formed on the plants. The technology of growing seedlings is similar to that described in the section "Growing gourds in open ground". Growing seedlings for hydroponic greenhouses is associated with the use of polyethylene pots and a fine fraction (3 - 5 mm) of crushed granite. For low-volume cultivation, mineral wool cubes are used. During the cultivation of seedlings intended for early planting, additional artificial lighting is used.

High whimsicality to light determines the timing of growing watermelons and melons in winter greenhouses. In the third light zone, they are planted in a permanent place in late February - early March, in the conditions of the fourth and fifth light zones - in mid-February, in the sixth light zone - in January.

To increase the resistance of melons and watermelons against diseases and increase productivity, they can be grafted onto a pumpkin. The vaccination is done in a split, and a few leaves are left on the stock, because after the vaccination, the graft is not able to assimilate all the necessary substances in the first period. Watermelon is grafted onto a table gourd (Lagenaria), melon - onto a large-fruited or fig pumpkin (C. figolia). Grafting watermelons and melons on a pumpkin speeds up fruiting at 3-4 weeks. This increases the sugar content of the fruit.

In block greenhouses with a link width of 6.4 m, melons are planted in six rows according to a 106 x 35 cm pattern, and watermelons are planted in four rows according to a 160 x 50 cm pattern.

In the case of growing watermelons and melons in winter greenhouses, attention is focused on maintaining optimal temperatures in the root-containing medium at a level of about 25 ° C. Optimum temperature air for melons during the day during sunny hours should be 26 - 28 ° C, cloudy - 22 - 24 ° C, at night - 18 - 20 ° C, relative humidity - 60 - 70%. For watermelons, respectively, during sunny hours - 24 - 26 ° C, cloudy hours - 20-22, at night - 17-18 ° C, relative humidity - 60-65%.

Before fruit set, the plants are watered moderately, due to the tendency of plants to accelerate growth to the detriment of fruiting. Watering is increased only with the beginning of the fruit filling, at the same time carrying out top dressing. Watermelons are watered more moderately compared to melons.

In hydroponic greenhouses, before fruit set, the substrate is moistened once or twice a day so as not to stimulate the formation of stems and leaves and delay the fruiting process. During the filling of fruits, the substrate is moistened with a nutrient solution more often - up to 3-4 times a day, and during the period of fruit ripening - 2-3 times. With a moderate supply of moisture, sweeter fruits are formed.

For better pollination of gourds, beehives with bees are placed a week before the start of flowering of female flowers. Flowering begins 35 - 40 days after planting seedlings. The period from flowering to the beginning of fruit ripening is 40-45 days, depending on the variety.

Lateral shoots of the third order at a height of 80-100 cm are removed, which prevents the spreading of shoots on the soil surface.

After ovaries with a diameter of 3-4 cm are formed on the plants, some of them are removed, leaving varieties with large fruits one fruit per shoot, and small-fruited varieties two fruits each. The fruits are left by those that are closer to the main shoot. Weak, underdeveloped shoots are removed. The shoots on which the ovary is left are shortened over the fourth or fifth leaf above the ovary. To speed up the filling of fruits, it is recommended to stop the growth of young shoots by pinching their tops.

In watermelon plants, fruits begin to form on the main shoot, therefore, during the seedling period, the plants are not pinched and the main stem grows arbitrarily along a vertical trellis. In the future, the fruits are formed on the shoots of the second and next orders. During the rationing of fruits on one plant, 2-3 ovaries are left. The shoots on which the ovaries are left are pinched, leaving 4-5 leaves above each fruit and removing excess ovaries. The lower shoots, like dini plants, are removed. Shoots are also removed that are poorly developed and those on which there are no ovaries.

The fruits of watermelons and melons, which are already growing or already ripening, are placed in polyethylene or cotton nets and hung from a trellis. The yield of watermelons averages 5-6, and melons 5-7 kg / m 2.

In greenhouses, watermelons and melons are grown as tomato compactors. Plants are planted together with the main crop in five or six rows at a distance of 70 - 80 cm from one another. Then they are tied to a vertical trellis. After education required amount fruits on plants are pinched, leaving 4-5 leaves above each fruit. The remaining ovaries and all non-fruiting shoots are removed. Fruits in nets are tied to a trellis (stretched wire). Shoots of watermelons and melons, which occupy space above the main crop, create favorable temperature conditions in the spring and summer months, protecting plants from overheating during high temperatures.

The yield of watermelons and melons as sealing plants is 0.6 - 0.8 kg/m 2 .

GROWING GOLUNS IN FILM GREENHOUSES

The use of film greenhouses makes it possible to grow in

an average of 5-6 kg/m 2 of melons and gourds prior to their receipt from the open ground. In some cases, up to 10-12 kg/m 2 are obtained.

Under the conditions of Ukraine, seedlings of melons and gourds are planted in film greenhouses with heating in March - early April, and in greenhouses without heating - in the second half of April. In the Crimea, in a greenhouse with heating, seedlings of watermelons and melons are planted in late February - early March, in a greenhouse with emergency heating - in the second half of March, and in non-heated ones - in the first - second decade of April. Of particular importance is the culture of gourds in film greenhouses when they are reused after growing seedlings of vegetable plants for open ground. Seedlings under these conditions are planted in the second half of April - the first half of May.

Soil preparation. For the cultivation of watermelons and melons, as the main crop in film greenhouses, soil preparation begins with the introduction of humus for watermelons at 100-150, and for melons at 150-200 t / ha (L. G. Shulgina). In order to improve physical properties soils contribute sawdust or straw chopped up to 25% of the volume of the soil mixture. Straw chaff is applied in several steps, after which it is buried to a depth of 25 cm. Straw activates microbiological processes in the soil and this can lead to its depletion in nutrients, especially nitrogen, so 10 kg of active nitrogen must be added per 1 ton of straw . If the straw rate is 3 kg / m 2, additionally add 86 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 m 2 of the greenhouse.

Sawdust is also an effective leavening material. It is best to use precomposted sawdust. During composting, 10 m 3 sawdust is mixed from 1 ton of humus and 100 - 200 kg of bird droppings, filled with gnaw and composted for 4 months. in piles 80 cm high, interrupting them every 2 months. If the farms have peat, it is added to the soil mixture at the rate of 100-150 t/ha. Adding lime to peat, bring the pH value to 6.2 - 6.4.

In autumn, in addition to organic fertilizers and loosening materials, 4-5 centners / ha of superphosphate are applied for plowing, and 1.5 - 2 centners / ha of ammonium nitrate and 1 - 1.5 centners / ha of potassium sulfate are applied in spring for milling.

In the case of using greenhouses after their release from seedlings for open ground, fertilizers are not applied.

Cultivation of seedlings is carried out according to the technology described in the section "Growing gourds in open ground". G. L. Borisov, V. Ya. 01% solution of zinc sulfate, germinate and sow two seeds in peat or plastic bulk pots measuring 10 x 10 x 8 or 12 x 12 x 8 cm. Weak plants are removed 4-5 days after emergence. Melon seedlings are grown within 12-14 days, watermelons - 18-20 days from the moment of germination. The timing of sowing seeds for growing seedlings is determined based on the timing of the start of planting plants in a permanent place. The temperature in the greenhouse is maintained at 22-24°C during the day and 17-19°C at night. Seedlings are watered moderately, always with warm water, after watering the greenhouse is ventilated. 5 - 7 days before planting seedlings in the soil in the room, increase ventilation and stop watering. On the eve of planting, the plants are watered until the entire volume of the soil mixture of the pot is completely moistened. With the normal development of seedlings, feeding with phosphorus (45 g of superphosphate per 10 l of water) and potassium (10 g of potassium salt per 10 l of water) fertilizers is done only 1-2 days before planting it in a permanent place. In case of poor development of plants, they are fed at the beginning of the formation of the second or third leaf. In this case, a complete mineral fertilizer is applied at the rate of 10 g of ammonium nitrate, 30 superphosphate and 10 g of potassium salt per 10 liters of water. At the time of planting seedlings in a permanent place, it should have two or three, but not more than four true leaves.

Seedlings of watermelons and melons in heated greenhouses are planted when the soil warms up to 20 - 22 ° C. After planting the seedlings in a permanent place, the temperature in the greenhouses is maintained for the first 3-4 days in sunny weather at the level of 20-22 ° C, and in cloudy weather and at night - 18-20 ° C. If the plants take root and grow, the temperature in the greenhouses will sunny days maintain at a level of 27 - 30 ° C, and in cloudy 22 - 25 ° C, at night - 20 - 22 ° C. For a melon, after the formation of ovaries, the air temperature should be 30 -40 ° C. It should be noted that the level of optimal temperatures for watermelons is lower and their overheating is more dangerous compared to melons, therefore, in film greenhouses, during the cultivation of watermelons, proper ventilation is created. The optimum soil temperature during this period is 24-26 °C. In film greenhouses on solar heating, seedlings are planted when the soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm in the morning is 14 ° C. To increase the temperature of the soil, it is mulched with a transparent film. From the very beginning of planting seedlings, it is desirable to arrange tunnel shelters to improve the microclimate in greenhouses. If necessary (at night), a double layer of film is applied to the tunnels.

According to research by S. A. Bondarenok and L. M. Shulgina (IOB UAAS), melons respond positively to an increase in air volume in buildings, which helps to equalize the temperature regime.

In film greenhouses, where there is more than 2 m 3 air per 1 m 2 of area, melon plants have a large vegetative mass and give a 14% higher yield than in greenhouses, where 1.5 m 3 air falls on 1 m 2. In small-sized film greenhouses, the optimal density is 2-3 plants per 1 m 2 with 2-3 main shoots on each. Plants are placed according to the scheme 70 x 70 or 55 x 65 cm. When planting two tall per 1 m 2, when forming a bush, the first pinching is carried out after the plants have taken root behind the third true leaf. If 7-8 leaves form on the side shoots of the first order, the second pinching is done over the sixth leaf. The shoots on which the ovaries have formed and have reached a diameter of 5 cm are shortened, leaving 4-5 leaves above the ovary. Barren shoots are shortened over the third - fifth leaf. In large-sized film greenhouses, the optimal density is two plants per 1 m 2 with arbitrary formation of a bush without pinching at seedling age.

Seedlings of watermelons in large greenhouses are planted according to the scheme 70 x 70 cm. Plants are tied to a trellis. At an early age, they are not pinched, but only weak shoots are removed. With this planting scheme, 2-3 fruits are left on one plant. This operation is carried out when the ovary reaches a diameter of 5 - 7 cm. To accelerate the growth of the fruit, pinch the shoots, leaving five leaves above the fruit.

As noted by R. L. Borisova et al., in film greenhouses in the south of Ukraine and in the Crimea, the apical point of growth is not pinched at the seedlings of melons and watermelons. Seedlings are planted according to the scheme 70 x 70 cm. Deep holes are made in the landing sites, into which peat, humus or a compost mixture of peat, with humus, is introduced. Then they fill it with water and, as soon as it is absorbed by the soil, a pot with seedlings is placed at the bottom of the hole, which is covered with earth 1.5 - 2 cm above the soil level, forming a mound near the stem that will protect it from water during irrigation. If the peat humus pots are dense, then they are well moistened before planting, and during planting they are slightly squeezed by hand to make cracks in the pots, along which the roots will easily penetrate into the soil. After the plants have taken root, they are tied to a trellis with twine and, as the vegetative mass grows, they are formed. The main shoot, as noted, is not pinched, but the two lower lateral shoots of the first order are removed, since female flowers appear late on them. The next 3-4 shoots are spread on the surface of the soil and each one is pinched 2-3 leaves after the appearance of a female flower. Shoots on which female flowers did not form to the sixth or seventh node are removed, and the central stem is regularly tied to twine as it grows, without pinching. Lateral shoots of the first order of the middle
and the upper tiers of the trellis are pinched 2-3 leaves above the female flower. Rationing the ovaries accelerates the formation of the first fruits and improves their marketability and taste. The normal load on the plant is 4-5 fruits weighing 0.8-1.2 kg. During the cultivation of varieties with smaller fruits, the load of plants with ovaries is increased to 14-16 pcs. The fruits that form on the central stem, middle and upper lateral shoots are enclosed in mesh bags that are hung from the upper horizontal wire of the trellis or the frame of the greenhouse. Pieces of glass are placed under the fruits that form on shoots that creep along the surface of the soil in order to prevent them from rotting and being damaged by various pests.

Plants are watered moderately at first, and then gradually increase the watering rate. Melons are watered first after 3-4 days at the rate of 10 liters of water per 1 m 2, in cloudy weather - less often, in sunny weather - more often. It is necessary to water carefully with warm water, wetting only the soil, and leaving the stem and leaves dry. Therefore, watering is carried out along the furrows. After each watering, the soil is loosened. Optimal relative
air humidity 60 - 70%. During flowering, air humidity
somewhat increase refreshing watering. AT hot weather
it is advisable to carry them out every other day. The fruits ripen better
in dry air. Watermelons are watered less frequently than melons because
excessive watering reduces sugar content, contributes to thickening
bark and the appearance of fungal diseases. The relative humidity of the air during the formation of watermelon fruits is maintained at the level
about 70%, and during their growth and maturation - 60%.

Plants of watermelons and melons during the growing season are fed 2-3 times with an interval of 8-10 days. The composition and doses of dressings depend on the content of mineral nutrients in the soil. The composition of the mixture for feeding melons: for 10 liters of water, take 25 g of ammonium nitrate, 50 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium sulfate, for feeding watermelons, respectively, 10, 50 and 30 g.

According to L. G. Shulgina, during the first feeding, 1 liter of solution is consumed per plant, during the next - 1.5 liters.

For pollination in a greenhouse, 10-15 days before the flowering of plants, hives with bees are brought in.

Ripened melon fruits are recognized by the change in color from green to yellow, the appearance of a characteristic aroma, and the ease with which the fruit separates from the stem. A watermelon is considered ripe, which has a dull sound after light tapping on it with a finger and a matte coating. The fruits of watermelons are cut, not plucked, so as not to damage the tops of the plant.

GROWING GOLUNS IN GREENHOUSES

In greenhouses, watermelons, melons and zucchini are most often grown as a second crop after growing seedlings of early and medium cabbage. Previously, in greenhouses or hotbeds, 25-30-day-old seedlings are grown in humus-earthen (humus to earth ratio 3: 1) or peat-humus (ratio - 3 hours peat, 1 hour sawdust and 0.5 hours liquid cow pus diluted in ratio 1:4) in pots The pots are 8x8 or 10x10 cm in size, one plant is left in them. Planting seedlings in a permanent place is carried out at the rate of two plants under the greenhouse frame. The soil layer in the greenhouse must be at least 25 cm. In greenhouses with electric and water heating, this layer is created without adding soil mixture. When using greenhouses with biological heating, in the middle of the greenhouse frame where the plants will be planted, the soil mixture is removed to a width of 30 - 35 cm and placed next to it in the greenhouse, then I select biofuel in the groove to a depth of 10-15 cm, laying it on the paths, and the groove is covered soil mixture. The total thickness of the soil mixture in the groove zone should be 25 - 30 cm. Towards the northern and southern parubny, the thickness of the soil mixture is 10-12 cm. In case of a lack of soil mixture, freshly prepared soil is added to it. The best soil mixture for growing melons and gourds is humus-earthen: for 2 hours of fresh soddy soil, 1 part of humus is added and 5-10% of river sand and mineral fertilizers are added to the mixture. After planting the seedlings, the temperature during the day is maintained at 25-30 ° C, and at night 18-20 ° C. Water moderately, with warm water, avoiding overmoistening of the soil, after 2-3 days, 4-5 liters each, and in dry and hot weather, 8-12 liters each. Water should be poured between the tops, preventing the root neck of the plants from soaking. During the flowering period, watering is temporarily limited for better education ovaries.

Greenhouses are periodically ventilated, and with the onset of warm weather, when the threat of frost passes, they open completely removing the frames. The frames are removed gradually so that the plants get used to the outside air and direct sunlight.

In the process of vegetation, infertile shoots are cut out from watermelon plants, and in fruitful shoots, a growth point is pinched above the second or third leaf above the ovary. 2-3 formed ovaries are left on the watermelon plant, and the excess ones are removed. In melons, pinching of the main stem is carried out above the fourth or fifth leaf, side shoots - above the fifth - seventh leaf and above the second or third leaf above the ovaries. On melon plants, 3-5 fruits are left.

Melon plants respond very well to top dressing. During the growing season, 3-4 fertilizing with organic and mineral fertilizers is carried out. Melons and zucchini are fed at the beginning of development with organic fertilizers, adding superphosphate and potassium chloride (Table 20). For optimal placement of the vegetative mass of plants and the formation of additional roots, when the shoots reach a length of 40 - 50 cm, they are pinned with wooden hooks 12-15 cm long at a distance of 25 - 30 cm from the root neck (always near the petiole of the leaf). The places of pinning are sprinkled with a moist soil mixture, which contributes to the formation of additional roots. To prevent the fruits from rotting, pieces of glass or thin boards are placed under them.

For growing in greenhouses, the most early-ripening varieties of watermelons and melons are used. Before the beginning of the receipt of fruits from the field in greenhouses, 4-6 kg of crop can be obtained from one frame.

GROWING GOLUNS IN WINTER GLAZED GREENHOUSES

The cultivation of watermelons and melons in winter glazed greenhouses, despite their rather valuable properties, is limited. The culture of watermelons and melons is possible both in soil and hydroponic greenhouses. Mostly watermelons and melons are grown in such greenhouses as compactors, sometimes as an independent crop.

Seedlings of watermelons and melons are grown for 30 - 35 days to form 4 - 5 true leaves on plants. The technology of growing seedlings is similar to that described in the section "Growing gourds in open soil". Growing seedlings for hydroponic greenhouses is associated with the use of polyethylene pots and a fine fraction (3 - 5 mm) of crushed granite. For low-volume cultivation, mineral wool cubes are used. During the cultivation of seedlings intended for early planting, additional artificial lighting is used.

High whimsicality to light determines the timing of growing watermelons and melons in winter greenhouses. In the third light zone, they are blown up to a permanent place at the end of February - at the beginning of March, in the conditions of the fourth and fifth light zones - in mid-February, in the sixth light zone - in secants.

To increase the resistance of melons and watermelons against diseases and increase productivity, they can be grafted onto a pumpkin. The vaccination is done in a split, and a few leaves are left on the undergraft, because after the vaccination, the graft is not able to assimilate all the necessary substances during the feather-bed period. Watermelon is grafted onto a table gourd (Lagenaria), melon - onto a large-fruited or fig-leaved pumpkin (C. figolia). Grafting watermelons and melons on a pumpkin speeds up fruiting at 3-4 weeks. This increases the sugar content of the fruit.

In block greenhouses with a link width of 6.4 m, melons are blown up in six rows following a 106 x 35 cm pattern, and watermelons in four rows following a 160 x 50 cm pattern.

In the case of growing watermelons and melons in winter greenhouses, attention is focused on maintaining optimal temperatures in the root environment at a level of about 25 ° C. The optimum air temperature for melons during the day during sunny hours should be 26 - 28 ° C, cloudy - 22 - 24 ° C, at night - 18 - 20 ° C, relative humidity - 60 - 70%; for watermelons, respectively, 24 - 26 ° C, 20-22, 17-18 ° C, 60-65%.

Before fruit set, plants are watered moderately, due to the tendency of plants to accelerate growth to the detriment of fruiting. Watering is intensified only with the beginning of the fruit filling, at the same time carrying out feeding. Watermelons are watered more moderately compared to melons.

In hydroponic greenhouses, before fruit set, the substrate is moistened once or twice a day so as not to stimulate the formation of stems and leaves and delay the fruiting process. During fruit filling, the substrate is moistened with a nutrient solution more often - up to 3-4 times a day, and during the period of fruit ripening - 2-3 times. With a moderate supply of moisture, sweeter fruits are formed.

For better pollination of gourds, beehives with bees are placed a week before the start of flowering of female flowers. Flowering begins 35 - 40 days after the explosion of seedlings. The period from flowering to the beginning of fruit ripening is 40-45 days, depending on the variety.

Plants of gourds are formed on a vertical trellis. The first pinching of melons is recommended to be carried out over the third leaf of the seedlings. After pinching, three shoots are formed on the plant, which, as they grow, are wrapped around the twine, directing them to the upper horizontal wire. The second time, the top of the shoots is pinched when the plants reach a height of 2-2.5 m. During this time, shoots of the third order are formed, as a rule, female flowers form on them. If their appearance is delayed, re-pinch the tops of the shoots of the second and part of the shoots of the third order. This contributes to the formation of shoots of the fourth order, on which female flowers appear.

Side shoots of the third order to a height of 80-100 cm are removed, which prevents the spreading of shoots on the soil surface.

After the ovaries with a diameter of C -4 cm are formed on the plants, some of them are removed, leaving in varieties with large fruits one fruit per shoot, and in small-fruited varieties - two fruits. The fruits are left by those that are closer to the main shoot. Weak, underdeveloped shoots are removed. The shoots on which the ovary is left are shortened over the fourth or fifth leaf above the ovary. To speed up the filling of fruits, it is recommended to stop the growth of young shoots by pinching their tops.

In watermelon plants, fruits begin to form on the main shoot, therefore, at the seedling age, the plants do not pinch and the main stem grows arbitrarily along a vertical trellis. In the future, the fruits are formed on the shoots of the second and next orders. During the rationing of fruits on one plant, 2-3 ovaries are left. The shoots on which the ovaries are left are pinched, leaving 4-5 leaves above each fruit and removing excess ovaries. The lower shoots, as in a tall din, are removed. Shoots are also removed that are poorly developed and those on which there are no ovaries.

In greenhouses, watermelons and melons are grown as tomato compactors. Plants are blown up together with the main crop through five or six rows at a distance of 70 - 80 cm from one another. Then they are tied to a vertical trellis. After the formation of the required number of fruits on the plants, the shoots are pinched, leaving 4-5 leaves above each fruit. The rest and all infertile shoots of the ovaries are removed. Fruits in nets are tied to a trellis - stretched wire. Shoots of watermelons and melons, which occupy space above the main crop, create favorable temperature conditions in the spring and summer months, protecting plants from overheating during high temperatures.

The yield of watermelons and melons as sealing plants is 0.6 - 0.8 kg/m2.

Often gardeners plant on their summer cottages watermelons to enjoy their juicy fruits in summer. However, not everyone manages to get a high-quality harvest, since special knowledge is needed to grow gourds. Therefore, it is necessary to familiarize yourself in advance with how watermelons are grown.

Watermelons are considered heat-loving plants that have a long growing season. It is recommended to familiarize yourself with the technology of growing this crop in areas that differ climatic features. Residents of southern regions with a warm climate can plant gourds immediately in open ground. Due to the high temperature, bushes and fruits will grow quickly. When growing a plant in warm regions, it is much easier to get a good harvest.

In the northern regions, the air temperature is much lower, so watermelons ripen worse. Due to the harsh climate, many gardeners fail to achieve high yields.

When growing gourds in such regions, certain rules are followed:

for planting use only varieties with early ripening;
to create optimal conditions for the germination of seedlings, seed must be planted in greenhouses or under film shelters;
planting is carried out by seedling method;
to improve the growth of the root system, all seedlings are watered between rows;
to obtain medium-sized fruits, no more than six ripe berries are left on each bush, and two fruits are left to collect the largest crop.

Selection and preparation of watermelon seeds for sowing

Before you start sowing watermelons at home, you need to do the selection and preliminary preparation of the seed.

Choice

It is recommended to pre-select seeds that will be planted in the future. When selecting, carefully inspect each seed to look for any signs of damage. Damaged seeds are immediately thrown away, as they are unsuitable for planting.

Also, when choosing the highest quality seed, pay attention to its variety. Experienced gardeners advise planting hybrid varieties, as they are resistant to weather changes and common diseases.

Training

To obtain strong and healthy seedlings, you will have to do the preliminary preparation of seeds in advance, which consists of several activities:

Disinfection. Before sowing, all seeds will have to be disinfected so that they are not exposed to diseases in the future. During disinfection, all seeds are soaked in manganese liquid for 25-30 minutes. Then they are laid out on a towel and dried thoroughly.
Warming up Gardeners strongly recommend heating watermelon seeds, as this contributes to their germination. The procedure is carried out very carefully so as not to accidentally overheat the seeds. To warm up, all planting material is lowered for half an hour into a container with water heated to 45 degrees.
Scarification. When carrying out such a procedure, the shell of the seed of watermelons is carefully pierced. This speeds up the process of seed germination several times. It is necessary to engage in scarification 2-3 weeks before planting.

Choosing a place to land

In order to grow a high-quality crop in open ground, it is necessary to select the most suitable site for watermelons in advance. When choosing a place in the garden, pay attention to the characteristics of the soil. For gourds and gourds, sandy and sandy loamy soils are ideal, which are rich in nutrients. The level of illumination of the site is also taken into account, since due to the lack of light, the yield may deteriorate. Therefore, experts do not recommend planting seeds or seedlings in shaded areas, under trees or fences.

When choosing a place for planting watermelons in a summer cottage, one should take into account the compatibility of this crop with other plants.

Watermelon seedlings grow well in gardens where black radish has been grown for a long time. This vegetable saturates the soil with phytoncides, which protect crops from spider mites and other pests. Gardeners also recommend planting gourds near tomatoes and parsley, as they drive away moths and sawflies.

However, there are several plants with which watermelons are incompatible. You should not plant them after peppers, potatoes, strawberries and eggplants, as these vegetables suck out many of the nutrients that watermelon plants need from the soil.

Preparing and fertilizing the soil

Having chosen a site for planting a plant, proceed to preliminary preparation and fertilizing the soil in which watermelon seedlings will be grown. Chernozem should be loose and contain nutrients that will accelerate the growth of seedlings. Soil preparation technology consists of several successive stages.

Determination of the level of looseness of the soil and its acidity. If the land on the site has an increased level of acidity, you will have to water it with chalk or lime mortar. Heavy soils are pre-fed with vermicompost to increase friability.
Adding mineral supplements to increase yields. In the first few weeks after planting watermelons, mineral fertilizers are added to the soil, which are dominated by nitrogen. This component activates the growth of seedlings, due to which fruits are tied on the bushes earlier. Also, the site is fed with phosphorus-containing dressings, which increase the resistance of seedlings to temperature changes.
Introduction of organic matter. To saturate the soil with useful microelements, it is necessary to fertilize it with organic top dressing. It is recommended to evenly distribute bird droppings with humus over the site, then loosen the ground and pour it with warm water. To improve the yield of watermelons, you can moisten the soil with herbal infusion mixed with wood ash.

Growing seedlings

When using the seedling planting method, gardeners have to grow seedlings, which will be transplanted into the garden in the future. It is recommended to familiarize yourself in advance with the features of planting seeds and transplanting grown seedlings to a permanent place.

Planting watermelon seeds

Sowing seeds is carried out when they have sprouted a little and white sprouts have appeared on their surface. When carrying out planting work, all seed material is planted in pots with soil mixture. About 2-4 seeds are sown in each container, so that in the future you can get rid of weak seedlings and leave only the most healthy seedlings. Seeds are sown to a depth of 3-5 centimeters.

When all watermelon seeds have been planted in pots, they are covered with plastic wrap and transferred to a well-lit room.

In the first 5-7 days, pots with planted watermelons should be in a room with a temperature of at least 23 degrees. After the appearance of the first sprouts, the film is removed from the pots, and containers with seedlings are transferred to a room with a temperature of 15-17 degrees.

Seedling transplant

Watermelon seedlings should be grown in pots until the first three leaves appear on the seedlings. After this, the seedlings must be transplanted to a permanent place. To do this, rows are marked along the entire site, on which holes are made for further planting. The depth of each hole should be about 8-10 centimeters so that the roots can be completely placed underground.

Each hole is watered with warm water, after which the seedlings are carefully planted in the ground. Then the holes are covered with soil and re-moistened with water.

Shaping and pinching

Experienced gardeners recommend regularly pinching gourds. This procedure is carried out to improve the yield and accelerate the development of watermelon berries. Most often, pruning of lashes is carried out when growing plants in open ground, since in greenhouse conditions it is not necessary to form bushes. In order to properly form seedlings, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of removing extra stepchildren.

There are three main methods of pinching, which are most often used by gardeners:

Pasynkovanie lateral shoots. This method is considered universal, as it is suitable for any variety of gourds. During the procedure, 1-2 shoots are left on the main stem. At the same time, on all lateral stems, the ovaries are completely removed.
Trimming the side stems. Using this method of pinching plants, you will have to completely remove the shoots. Only a few lashes are left on the main stem, and everything else is cut off.
Formation in several stems. This is the most common way in which you do not need to completely cut the shoots. On the bushes leave 2-4 lateral lashes. At the same time, each of them should have 2-3 ovaries. If there are more of them, then all the extra fruits that have set are removed.

Rules for feeding and caring for the plant

It is recommended to properly care for gourds, since without care it will not be possible to get a quality crop. The quality of the fruits directly depends on the application of fertilizing to the soil at all stages of growing watermelons.

When sowing

Before planting the seed, be sure to fertilize the soil. To do this, the earth is mixed with a liquid that is prepared from humus. Then the site is treated with wood ash and bone meal, which increases the permeability of oxygen in the soil.

When landing in open ground

Some people prefer to grow watermelon bushes in the open field, so they immediately plant the seeds in the garden. Before that, the land on the site is mixed with green manure plants, which are considered the best top dressing to strengthen the roots.

When flowering

When pollination and flowering of bushes begins, it is recommended to add more fertilizing with potassium to the ground. This substance contributes to the appearance of new flowers on seedlings, due to which the yield increases significantly. Gardeners advise once a month to spray watermelons with Kelik and Nutrivant.

At the beginning of fruiting

At the initial stage of fruiting, it is necessary to take seriously the feeding of each bush, since due to the lack of nutrients in the soil, the yield is deteriorating. Often, few berries are tied on the bushes due to a lack of boron.

Therefore, to improve the formation of ovaries and the ripening of fruits, it is necessary to periodically spray the area with Megafol and Boroplus.

Nutrition for the fetus

The correct fertilization scheme for watermelon seedlings contributes to the ripening of berries. To make the fruits more watery and tasty, the plants are regularly sprayed with Uniflor and Terraflex.

How often to water

Before you start growing melons, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of their irrigation. In the first weeks after germination, the plant needs intensive watering, as it root system weakened. With a lack of moisture, seedlings grow poorly and gradually fade. Also, more often it will be necessary to moisten the soil during the formation of flowers and the setting of the first fruits. During such periods, seedlings are watered at least four times a week.

Experts advise to moisten the soil in the afternoon, when the sun begins to set. In the daytime, it is not worth moistening the soil, because due to the high temperature and sunlight, moisture will evaporate faster. For irrigation use settled water at room temperature. Watering the bushes with too cold liquid is contraindicated, as this can lead to rotting of the root system and further death of watermelons.

Irrigation of gourds ceases to be engaged after the full ripening of the fruits.

Harvest and storage

If the agricultural technique for growing watermelons has been fully observed, a ripe crop can be harvested 35-50 days after planting. However, sometimes watermelon berries ripen ahead of time. To make sure that the fruits are ripe, inspect the color of their pulp and seeds. Seeds must be dark Brown color, and the flesh is pink, with a reddish tint. The peel of ripe watermelons should be hard and rough.

The harvested crop is best stored on high racks with shelves, which are located at a distance of 55-65 centimeters from each other. Each shelf should be covered with a thin layer of peat or straw. Such a coating will increase the shelf life of the crop. During storage, watermelons are carefully examined every month. All rotten fruits are thrown away so that the rot does not spread to neighboring berries. Monthly treatment of fruits with lime mortar will help protect the crop from rotting.

What diseases and pests gourds are susceptible to: methods of control

Often gourds do not grow well due to pest attacks or the development of diseases:

Anthracnose. The presence of such a pathology can be determined by the brown spots that appear on the leaves of watermelons. To get rid of the symptoms of anthracnose, all infected bushes are treated with Bordeaux liquid and Kuprozan solution.
Bacteriosis. The disease damages the leaves, on the surface of which oval white spots appear. Bacteriosis cannot be cured, so infected watermelons are dug up and burned.
Mite. Due to dry weather, young watermelon seedlings are often attacked by spider mites. Insects feed on the juice from the leaves and stems, which causes the bushes to dry. A mixture made from onions and garlic will help to cope with the pest.

Conclusion

Many summer residents plant their plots with watermelon bushes. To properly grow them, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of planting gourds and caring for them.

The most delicious is the watermelon that grew in the garden and was nourished by the sun, greenhouse fruits do not have such a taste. That is why gardeners tend to grow watermelons in the open field, but not everyone succeeds.

Planting watermelon seeds in open ground

There are many issues associated with growing watermelons, but the most important of them is seed preparation and planting methods.

Watermelon seeds do not germinate well, as they are covered with a dense shell. Without pre-treatment of seeds, seedlings may not appear. First of all, experienced gardeners calibrate the seeds, for this they are dipped in a strong saline solution. All heavy seeds will sink to the bottom of the container, and they are used for further cultivation. Light seeds are unsuitable for planting.

Shortly before planting, the seeds are processed and disinfected, placed in a hot solution, then placed in a cold environment. The water temperature should not exceed 55°C. The solution is prepared from potassium permanganate, then the seeds are washed in clean water.

Planting watermelon seeds in a seedless way

After processing, the seeds are planted on the beds, this is done only in regions with a mild climate. Best of all, the seeds germinate at a soil temperature of 12-15 ° C, so they start planting in early spring.

The depth of seed placement depends entirely on soil structure and seed size. On light and loose soils, it ranges from 4 to 8 cm, on heavy soils - no more than 6 cm. Moreover, small seeds are sown in shallow grooves or holes, while larger ones are planted deeper.

Landing is carried out according to one of the schemes:

Ordinary method. Between the bushes leave from 70 to 150 cm, between rows of at least 1.5 m.

Square nest. Bushes are planted at a distance of 70 to 210 cm.

For normal growth and development, the fruits need a lot of sun, plantings should not be thickened. In addition, it will protect plants from possible diseases and pests.

Another advantage of such a sparse landing is the abundance of food. The fact is that each fruit must receive enough nutrients. With thickened plantings, nutritional deficiencies occur.

Growing watermelons through seedlings

If the spring is long and cold, then it is better to plant prepared seedlings in the open ground after the heat is established. The whole process takes from 20 to 35 days, it all depends on the variety chosen.

For cultivation, a loose nutrient mixture is prepared, which consists of peat, humus and soddy soil. The depth of planting in cups is only 3-4 cm. Watermelon seeds are large, so they are immediately planted in separate containers so as not to injure the taproot with frequent transplants.

After planting, the containers are placed in a greenhouse until shoots appear. During this period, the temperature in the room is maintained at the level of 20-25°C, at night it is allowed to drop to 18°C. After the appearance of sprouts, the containers are removed to a colder place for 4 days to prevent stretching. The temperature is maintained at the same level - 17-18°C, further the seedlings are grown at a temperature of 20°C.

When caring for seedlings, special attention is paid to watering. They should not be plentiful, but you do not need to keep the sprouts dry. Water the plants only with warm water, trying not to get on the tender leaves.

The first feeding is carried out a week after the emergence of shoots. Use complex mineral mixtures for seedlings or melons.

Shortly before the intended planting in the ground, the plants are hardened. To do this, they are briefly taken out into the street, gradually increasing the residence time. Seedlings are planted from mid-May to early June.

How to choose a site for growing watermelons in open ground

A place for growing is chosen taking into account all the features of melons.

The site should be well lit throughout the day, be protected from cold winds and drafts.

Watermelons grow best in light soil, so take care of its condition in advance.

Since autumn, the beds are enriched with organic matter, humus or manure is introduced. In the spring, the place is dug up, weeds are removed.

Mineral fertilizers are applied under plowing:

Ammonium sulfate - 25 gr;

Superphosphate - 40 gr;

Potassium - 15 gr.

Plants are planted on prepared beds according to any of the above schemes. At first, the bushes shade from the scorching sun.

Features of growing and caring for watermelons in the open field

Watermelons are relatively undemanding crops, but without minimal care, you will not be able to get a good harvest of fruits. First of all, plants need watering, which carry out in a specific pattern:

Before the appearance of flowers, water sparingly;

Abundant during fruit set;

During the ripening period, reduce to a minimum and completely stop.

This technology allows you to grow juicy fruits with sugar pulp.

The frequency of watering also depends on the soil on which the crop is grown. On sandy soil, they are watered more often, and on chernozems and clay soils somewhat less frequently.

Another important point when growing watermelons in the open field are top dressing. Feed three times per season:

10 days after planting seedlings or germination;

During the flowering period;

During the formation of ovaries.

Mineral fertilizers with a low nitrogen content are used for top dressing, which reduces the risk of nitrate accumulation in fruits.

In addition, the main care for watermelons consists of the following procedures:

Loosening the soil to a depth of 7 cm;

Weed removal;

Whip protection from winds;

Pest and disease control.

After each watering or rain, the soil is carefully loosened, weeds are removed until the lashes between the bushes occupy all the free space. To protect the whips from the wind, they are pinned to the ground and sprinkled.

Problems when growing watermelons in open ground

If the site gets wet from moisture or there is not enough light and space for growing, then you can install vertical supports. They must be strong to withstand the load of the growing fetus. Only one main lash is left on the plant, on which up to 3-4 fruits are allowed.

If frosts are expected, then plantings should be covered with cardboard or covering material.

Wet weather can encourage aphids and fungal diseases. Regularly inspect the bushes, if necessary, carry out preventive spraying with a solution of garlic, tobacco dust or ash. In case of mass destruction, chemical preparations are used.

When to pick watermelons

How to determine the ripeness of a crop so as not to collect an unripe fruit? Experienced gardeners rely on planting dates and growing season, for example, early varieties give a harvest in mid-August. Mass crops are not harvested, but only ripe fruits are selected. They can be distinguished by their characteristic features:

The crust is shiny, smooth and dense;

When tapping, a dull sound;

Dry stalk and bract.

If the berry is planned to be transported to the place of storage, then it is better to collect the unripe one. They mature in storage.

Last season, my husband Boris Petrovich implemented two of his new projects on our site. I want to talk about their results. The first project was a dream he had for a long time: to use watermelon and melon plants as a design element.

We have been getting a stable harvest of these gourds on the site for the fifth year already, but this is not enough. My husband has long wanted to use watermelons and melons in such a way as to show all their beauty. In the last season, which was difficult due to weather conditions, his dream came true. It all started with the fact that in 2008 the husband to our little house added a veranda. The need for it has matured for a long time: guests often come to us, but there was nowhere to receive them. The veranda turned out to be 4x4 meters in size. Boris Petrovich covered it with a 150 micron thick polyethylene film to protect it from rain. For ventilation of the veranda and comfort inside it, a large window was made in the roof, and for better air movement and coolness in two places, the film on the walls could also be rolled up.

The veranda was built in the fall of 2008, so we could only feel the beauty of the sun rays passing through the film only in the coming summer season of 2009. And all winter my husband thought about how to protect himself from the scorching sun in summer and create an unusual green background on the veranda. He wanted our veranda inside to resemble the tropics with rapidly growing vines. That is why his choice fell on watermelons and melons. When he realized which plants would give the desired effect, the whole picture of the project immediately emerged - from the manufacture of warm ridges to the arrangement of plant lashes and their hearths on the veranda.

To insure the project, he connected the veranda with the house with an open opening. Additional heat through it came to the veranda on cold May days and in early June, and then in the second half of August, when the bulk of melons and gourds began to ripen.

This veranda was very useful to us at the beginning of May for keeping the grown seedlings of vegetables and flowers there. Since May 15, almost all containers with young plants have been there.

In May, I still do not live permanently in the country. And therefore, on my next visit there, a surprise awaited me, which at first upset me. The fact is that on the south side of the veranda, to the right and left of the entrance, the husband made two warm ridges with an area of 1.5 m? and a height of 50 cm. I did not like these structures, as they seemed uninteresting and out of place here. In addition, one of these ridges covered from the south and west from the sun the seedlings of flowers I recently planted near the house. At that time I did not really understand what would come of his idea? But an experiment is an experiment. And I gave him two cups of seedlings of watermelons and two cups of melons for this. The case was new, so we decided to use new varieties. To decorate the veranda, we used seedlings of Zemlyanin and Sorrento watermelons, which we purchased for the first time, as well as a new hybrid of Roxalana melon. There was no second melon novelty; I had to use the already tested Gerda melon hybrid. We sown the seeds of these melons and watermelons for seedlings on April 8th.

By May 10, having filled the warm ridges with organic matter, Boris Petrovich covered them with plastic wrap for quick heating. After a dozen days, the ridges breathed warmth. The husband built over them wall-mounted mini-greenhouses made of polyethylene film, which could be opened for planting seedlings, airing the plants and watering them. On May 20, seedlings were planted in mini-greenhouses.

Ten days later, Boris Petrovich decided to complicate his experiment: he planted one glass of cucumber seedlings - the Ecole hybrid - to two melon plants, and a glass of curly bean cowpea vegetable variety Countess to two watermelons. And it was convenient to plant all the plants and take care of them outside the veranda, for this it was enough to roll up a film on mini-greenhouses only a third.

Plants of watermelons and melons were formed into three stems: the main and two strong first lateral shoots. The cucumber was formed into one stem, the husband pinched all the side shoots - two ovaries and a leaf.

After planting, all seedlings quickly took root and began to grow. Already after June 10, all the lashes of melons and watermelons were introduced into the upper part of the veranda from its south side. A week later, the bean shoots caught up with their neighbors and went inside the veranda.

The husband watered the beds twice a week with warm, slightly podzolized water. He constantly monitored the landings so that they would not overgrow. Inside the veranda, under the film ceiling, I pulled the cords in order to guide the whips of developing plants along them. Boris Petrovich built a variety of shelves and swings for the fruit-setting, so that they would lie securely and comfortably on these coasters. I had to work hard, but the veranda turned out to be unusually interesting and beautiful - plants flourished at the top, and below there were comfortable benches and a table for family and guests.

The first melon started on June 10, and the first watermelon was pollinated on June 11. As a result, four watermelons grew on the veranda last season: from the whip of the Sorrento variety - one watermelon weighing 18 kg, the other - 3 kg; from a whip of the Zemlyanin variety - one watermelon in 11 kg, the other - 6 kg. We took 18 melons, their average weight was from 1.5 to 2 kg. Three melons, which we picked last, were already 2.5 kg each. And a lot of cucumbers formed on one lash. Their fruits looked very impressive under the ceiling of the veranda. Beans occupied the western wall of the veranda with their lashes, its pods were up to 70 cm long.

Scourges of watermelons and melons evenly covered the entire south side and top of the greenhouse, creating a beautiful openwork shadow inside. The melons and gourds were constantly cleaned: the growth of the main shoots was not limited, and the side shoots were all pinched after the second leaf. If we didn’t do this, we would get thickets of plant tops and a solid shadow inside. In addition, over the years of growing gourds, we realized that a large harvest of these crops and large fruits we get it due to the powerful, peeled tops of watermelons and melons. We usually pinch the main lash of these plants only at the last moment - during the period of mass ripening of fruits.

Our veranda in the last rainy summer was a favorite place for grandson to play. We, adults, also often gathered to have tea in it. The sight of ripening fruits, the aroma of ripening melons, the interesting design of the veranda - all this cheered up and inspired further work. All the fruits we picked there are fully ripe. We think that all the guests who visited our site last summer were also impressed by what they saw on the veranda, they now know that even in the conditions of the North-West they can grow, ripen watermelons and melons, that they can also be beautifully inscribed into the site landscape.

I will dwell separately on the feeding of plants that developed on our veranda. After all, it was necessary from two beds with an area of \u200b\u200b1.5 m? get not only the maximum surface of the leaf mass of melons to decorate the veranda, but also a good harvest of fruits. Without top dressing, such a result cannot be obtained. A year ago, Boris Petrovich developed a method of dry top dressing - with a thick layer of mulch. He used this method for fast-growing cucurbits, now he used it for the veranda.

Its essence is that in mid-July, at the time of maximum fruit set and growth, a nutritious mulch was placed under the plants, consisting of burnt sawdust and hay, soaked in the remains of horse manure and urine. This litter with a layer of 5-8 cm, when watered with warm podzolized water, gave fast-growing plants a balanced nutrition. And melons and gourds successfully grew under it last summer. In addition, their root system under the mulch was protected from hypothermia during cold nights. It was she who helped us grow a good crop of watermelons and melons without the use of other fertilizers. Another plus of it is that after watering the surface of the ridges quickly dried out.

This was my husband's first project, which, in my opinion, he managed to successfully implement. I will report on the results of the second project in the next issue of the magazine.

Galina Romanova, gardener, multiple winner of the competition of the Union of Gardeners, Kolpino

Many gardeners grow gourds(watermelons, melons, pumpkins) various kinds and varieties in their summer cottages. As a result, many questions often arise. For example, do you need to pinch the shoots, like cucumbers, at the beginning of growth? What are the soil requirements? How often should pumpkins and melons be watered in summer? The fight against diseases of these plants is also important.

Melons and gourds are heat-loving plants. Seed germination begins at a temperature of 13-15 ° C for melon, 16-17 - for watermelon, 12 - for pumpkin.

The most favorable for the growth and development of plants is the average daily temperature above 15°C, optimal for pumpkin - 20°C, for watermelon and melon - 22-30°C.

Plants of gourds light-loving, and when darkened, the yield, sugar and taste of the fruit are reduced. Melon plants are relatively resistant to air drought in the presence of moisture in the soil. Plants are especially demanding of moisture during the period of seed germination and emergence of seedlings.

Pumpkins need moisture and consume it in greater quantities than melons and watermelons.

The lack of moisture in the soil and the dryness of the air during flowering and fruit growth have a negative effect. Excess moisture at this time reduces the sugar content in fruits, palatability, and contributes to the spread of diseases.

Gourds grow and develop better on light soils with a sufficient content of organic matter, pumpkins grow well on heavy loamy soils when applying organic fertilizers. Good results are obtained by local application of 300-500 g of humus, 20 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium salt to the wells.

Melons and watermelons are best grown on light, well-warmed soils located on gentle southern and southwestern slopes, protected from the winds.

Before sowing, the seeds of watermelons and melons are heated for 5 hours at a temperature of 50 ° C and at 60-70 ° C for 2 hours, then disinfection is carried out in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for 25-30 minutes, followed by washing with running water . Can be disinfected with 0.5% solution blue vitriol within 24 hours (against bacteriosis).

Pumpkin tolerates early sowing better than other gourds, so sowing in open ground in the southern regions of Siberia, in particular in Altai, is carried out on May 10-20, watermelons and melons - on May 18-25. Sowing scheme for pumpkin: 200x100 cm and 200x20 cm, 2-3 plants per hole to a depth of 5-8 cm, watermelon and melon according to the scheme 100x100 cm, 150x60-70 cm and 150x100 cm, 1-2 plants per hole or 1 plant per 1m2. Embedding depth seeds Z-b cm, depending on size.

For watermelons and melons, it is better to make ridges 10-15 cm high and 30-40 cm wide or ridges. In the soil, first add humus or compost at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 linear meter and the same amount of sod land, 15-20 g of nitrogen fertilizers and potash and 30-40 g of phosphorus. Dig everything carefully.

When growing melon and watermelon through seedlings, sowing is carried out in humus-earthen cubes or pots 7x7x8 cm in size, filled with a mixture of soddy soil, humus, peat or sawdust in a ratio of 1:1:1.

Seedlings 15-20 days old (from seedlings) take root better, which are planted in the ground on June 10-15, when the threat of frost has passed.

In order to get ripe fruits of melon and watermelon 10-15 days earlier, seedlings are planted under temporary shelters in the phase of 2-3 true leaves on May 20-25.

When growing gourds in open ground, it is better to irrigate in the phase of 2-3 true leaves or when planting seedlings, at the beginning of flowering and in the first period of fruit growth. Water abundantly and no more than 1 time per week. After watering and rain, loosening is necessary, especially on heavy soils. When ripe, watering is stopped.

Melon plants form the crop mainly on shoots of the first and second orders and, to speed up maturation, do pinching the main shoot over 5-6 m real leaf. Then, when the ovary reaches a size of 5 cm, pinch the lateral shoot over the 2-3rd leaf after the ovary.

In watermelons and pumpkins, the first female flowers are formed on the main stem, so pinching them at an early age delays ripening.

For all gourds, to accelerate ripening, a month before the first frost, it is necessary to pinch the tops of all lashes.