Drainage well on loamy soil. How to make a site drainage on clay soils with your own hands. From materials for surface systems you will need

Excess water for suburban area leads to the washing out of the soil, a decrease in the yield of horticultural crops, deformation of residential and outbuildings. In this case, it is important for everyone who has encountered such a problem to know how to drain the area from water with their own hands.

What influences the choice of dehumidification method

The accumulation of water on the site can occur for many reasons, but the main ones are the following:

  • groundwater level rise;
  • the site is located in the lowlands, which contributes to the rapid accumulation of precipitation;
  • clayey and loamy soils with low moisture absorption coefficient.

The most problematic places on the site are determined in the off-season, when maximum amount rainfall - in early spring and late autumn. It is recommended to pump water from the site during the dry period - in summer.

Rapid drainage of the land is carried out by several methods. When choosing suitable option to solve the problem, it is necessary to take into account the main factors:

  • type and level of water permeability of the soil;
  • size of land;
  • optimal level of water drop;
  • the period of soil drainage from groundwater;
  • finished buildings on the site that require drainage;
  • direction of underground sources;
  • presence and type of vegetation.

The most popular methods of draining the land on the site are the drainage system, sewage pits and ditches, elements landscape design, moisture-loving shrubs and trees.

Closed and open drainage systems

Modern drainage systems allow you to quickly and effectively get rid of excess fluid in the area. Simple drainage consists of a pipeline and a water receiver. A stream, lake, river, ravine or ditch can be used as a water intake.

The drainage system is equipped from the water intake to the land plot, observing the optimal distance between its main elements. On dense soils with a high content of clay, the distance between individual drains should be 8–10 meters, on loose and heaving soils - up to 18 meters.

open drainage

The open or French drainage system is a shallow ditches, the bottom of which is filled with fine gravel and stones. Such drainage is arranged quite simply: a ditch of small depth is dug out with the discharge of effluents into a drainage well or a deep trench to the level of the sand layer, which is used as a drainage cushion.

A drainage well measuring 1×1 m can have a closed and open design, its bottom is filled with gravel of the middle fraction and brick breakage. Such structures do not clog, but are filled with soil, which is washed out with water. For this reason, draining this type of well is much more difficult than an open gutter.

Closed drainage

A technically sophisticated device that will quickly remove excess water and prevent it from stagnation. The arrangement of closed drainage is carried out using pipes made of clay or asbestos cement with laying in a certain order - in a straight line or herringbone. Closed-type drainage is suitable for areas located on a slight slope, which provides a natural flow of water.

Closed drains are often combined with drainage systems that allow water to be carried away from the base of the house.

Sewage pits and ditches

Many owners choose a fairly simple way to solve the problem of draining areas by digging drains and ditches. The arrangement of a cone-shaped pit is carried out as follows: at the lowest point, you need to dig a pit up to 100 cm deep, up to 200 cm wide at the top and 55 cm at the bottom. The dehumidification system is quite efficient, since excess moisture can be discharged into sewers without the use of additional funds.

The process of arranging sewers is more laborious, but no less effective. Ditches are dug along the entire perimeter of the territory - the depth and width is 45 cm. The walls are made at an angle of 25 degrees. The bottom is laid out with a brick battle or gravel. The main disadvantage of ditches is their gradual shedding, so it is worthwhile to carry out timely cleaning and strengthening the walls with boards or concrete slabs.

Landscape design elements - streams and ponds

We effectively get rid of excess water on the site thanks to the arrangement of artificial ponds and streams. Similar elements of landscape design can be organized in areas located at a slight slope.

Water sources are best arranged in dark places to avoid water blooms. The bottom of the artificial pond is laid out with stone or geotextile.

To enhance the effect, moisture-loving vegetation can be planted next to an artificial reservoir - shrubs, plants, grass.

Such landscape forms are structurally reminiscent of the French drainage system, since they are equipped according to the same principle.

Moisture-loving plantations - shrubs, trees and grass

To drain the soil, moisture-loving trees, shrubs and grasses are used, which are able to pump out excess water.

In order for green spaces to remove moisture, you need to know which varieties are recommended to be planted on the site. Such plantations include: willow, birch, maple, alder and poplar.

Shrubs are no less in demand: hawthorn, wild rose and vesicle. In moist soils, hydrangea, shadberry, spirea, mock orange and Amur lilac develop.

To give the site attractiveness and aesthetics, moisture-loving garden flowers are planted - iris, aquilegia and asters.

Too wet soil is not suitable for growing fruit trees- pears, apple trees, plums and apricots. Therefore, when choosing trees, it is better to give preference to seedlings with a superficial root system. Planting trees is carried out on hills up to 55 cm high.

To do this, a peg is driven into the soil, the earth around it is dug up to a depth of 25 cm. A prepared seedling is tied to the peg, the roots are sprinkled with earth with the addition of humus. The root neck remains exposed to a height of up to 8 cm above the ground.

After planting is completed, the seedling is watered abundantly with water to get rid of the air gaps between the root system and the soil.

Important! Excessively wet soil has an increased acidity, therefore, when draining, it is recommended to additionally carry out its liming. This will improve the quality of the soil for further gardening and farm work.

During operation, the condition of the soil on the site is carefully checked, since excess moisture can have a negative impact on horticultural crops, residential and outbuildings. The procedure for draining the soil is recommended to be carried out simultaneously with liming.

Now every landowner knows the answer to the question of how to get rid of water on the site and do it right. This will require free time, desire and financial investments.

Flooding the site with melt or storm water is one of the most unpleasant seasonal phenomena for owners. Heavy and dense clay soils dry out especially badly. Plants planted in such soil lag behind in development due to lack of oxygen. And buildings erected on clay soil are regularly flooded in the spring and begin to collapse from high humidity.

A well-organized drainage system, consisting of special ditches and drains, will help to solve the problem of removing excess moisture. If the site has a large area, it is necessary to make preliminary calculations and determine the location of the drainage trenches. At the same time, the natural slopes of the landscape are necessarily taken into account, which facilitate the transportation of drainage water to a nearby reservoir or a special well.

clay soil

Experts advise, first of all, after acquiring a site, determine the type of soil. The presence of sandy or black earth soils greatly facilitates the task of the builders of a new house or avid gardeners. But clay, as mentioned above, is the biggest enemy of plants and foundations of residential buildings, as well as outbuildings.

Water on such soil lingers for a long time, thereby delivering a lot of problems to the owners of the site, ranging from discomfort (sticky mud accompanies them literally on every square meter) to serious economic damage. If there is a lawn near the house, it will suffer first of all - dried clay is covered with a hard crust that is difficult to loosen. Because of this, the grass begins to wither and dry. And during prolonged downpours rots root system- the lawn turns into a swamp.

Wet soil is also dangerous in winter - the soil freezes to a great depth, destroying wet foundations and destroying gardens and berry fields.

Drainage device

Water diversion is the best decision that owners can make in such a difficult situation. In just one year, the soil will dry out, and the garden and garden will bring a rich harvest.

The soil permeability test is quite simple. It is necessary to dig a hole, small in diameter, 60 centimeters deep and fill it with water. If in a day the water is absorbed into the soil, there are no problems with the removal of moisture - the site does not need to build a drainage system. The remaining at least partially water is a sign of poor soil permeability and the need for a drainage system.

For the proper arrangement of the drainage system, three important points must be considered:

  • financial opportunities;
  • land area;
  • the amount of incoming moisture (precipitation, melt and groundwater).

Drainage can be superficial - cheaper to install, and buried - difficult to build and expensive. It is recommended to combine both methods. This will ensure quick and high-quality drainage of clay soil.

Surface drainage is shallow trenches or ditches. For the construction of a buried drainage system, the use of geotextile fabric and special pipes will be required. Sand, pipe, geofabric, crushed stone and another layer of sand are placed in the prepared trench. The soil is laid out on top.

On clay soils, it is necessary to loosen the bottom of the drainage trench well before putting it into operation.

This measure will slow down the compaction of the clay and improve the quality of the drainage.

Tools and materials

For work you will need:

  • bayonet and shovel shovel (for excavation);
  • garden wheelbarrow building materials and movement of waste soil;
  • level for slope formation;
  • hacksaw for cutting plastic pipes;
  • plastic pipes and elements for connecting the system;
  • geotextile;
  • gravel and sand.

For the device of open trenches, pipes, geotextile and crushed stone are not needed! But a special protective mesh is required that will cover the ditches, protecting them from falling foreign objects and animals, as well as trays or tiles.

Works on large areas are preceded by engineering calculations and drawing up a plan for the drainage system. Small areas can be equipped with a drainage system without drawing up a plan (but the features of the landscape are taken into account!).

The system is a central main drainage system (channel) or several mains, supplemented by side ditches. Auxiliary ditches are located every ten meters and are connected to the main at an acute angle - the whole system resembles a Christmas tree in shape. A pipe with a diameter of 10 centimeters is laid along the main line, and the pipeline is narrower in the side ditches - its diameter is 5–6.5 centimeters.

Collected water can be discharged:

  • along the road, if the terrain allows it, and there are no objecting neighbors;
  • in decorative pond or a natural reservoir;
  • a special well equipped with a drainage pump.

Carrying out work

The device of the system for diverting drainage water includes several important steps:

A plan is drawn up according to which marking is made on the site. The depth of the trenches is determined by the freezing point of the soil in a particular region. But at the same time, pipes are not laid below the foundation level of nearby buildings. The laying of the drainage pipeline is carried out 50 centimeters above the lower level of the foundation. According to the technical standards, the following construction rules are also adhered to:

  • at least 50 cm is left before the fence;
  • and one meter to the foundation of buildings.

Excavation is in progress. If the landscape is flat, at this stage the natural slope of the highway and side ditches is arranged.

A sand cushion up to 15 centimeters thick is being constructed. It must be compacted and covered with rubble or expanded clay.

Pipes are laid. The connection is made by means of tees or crosses. Perforated polymer pipes already wrapped with geotextile fabric are considered the best. Asbestos-cement pipes are used less frequently due to possible harm environment.

Backfilling in progress. If pipes without geotextile were used, it is laid out on the pipeline. Ready-made polymer pipes do not need additional winding. Crushed stone, a layer of sand and soil are placed on the pipes (the soil excavated before is used).

Many experts advise not to fill the soil, but to test the system. To do this, you can wait for the next downpour or forcibly fill the area with water from a hose. If the water leaves quickly, the drainage is done without errors. Slow outflow requires additional lateral ditches.

Backfilling with soil is carried out with the formation of a tubercle in the center - this is a margin for soil shrinkage. Over time, it will settle, and the surface will become smooth.

In the upper part of the sump there is a signal pipe to remove excess liquid or drainage pump.

Important Points

The geofabric serves as an additional filter that prevents large debris from entering the drainage system. It is believed that in clay soils its use is optional.

The lack of slope will lead to stagnant water and silting of the drainage line. The slope is from 1 to 7 centimeters per meter of pipeline.

The backfill layer should not be less than 15 centimeters. This rule is relevant for both gravel and sand or soil.

The depth of the main canals is from 40 centimeters to 1.2 meters. Less or more depth will make the system inefficient.

If you are faced with the problem of high levels of humidity on the land, then it is possible that you need to drain it, which you can handle on your own.

This should not be neglected, because such a phenomenon can lead to unpleasant consequences.

Such circumstances develop if the site is located in a lowland or at a high level of groundwater adjacency.

What is drainage and what are its functions

There is a certain system that combines trenches and pipes, which are located around the perimeter of a certain area of ​​the land. It's called drainage. Draining the soil by installing system elements will solve many problems associated with water drainage. For example:

  • your plants will not sink in the mud, and the harvest will be much better;
  • paths and paths will finally cease to be associated with swamps.

In a word, you will have the opportunity to enjoy your stay outside the city.

Remember, the correct drainage device is the key to the safety of the foundation of summer cottages, which is ensured by the safety of building materials. In what cases is such a system really needed? When the soil is washed out, it swells or swamps, and cellars and cellars are flooded from time to time.

Types of drainage systems and their features

In order to properly organize the removal of excess moisture from the land, you need to clearly understand what is the difference between its types, and what features each of them has.

So, drainage can be surface type or deep. You can deal with the first option on your own, because the work is relatively not difficult. As for the deep type of construction, you need to think about it at the stage of building a house.

Surface drainage The plot can be one of two types:

  • linear - special trays are laid directly on the surface, which are slightly inclined to the water intake or the main storm sewer well. For security purposes, they are closed with bars. decorative look. On the garden plots sand traps are often installed, making them even more efficient. Thus, stones, debris and sand do not enter the wastewater, respectively, the system is not so heavily clogged. The main condition for the full removal of excess water from the soil is the deep occurrence of groundwater;

  • point - dehumidification function in this case performs a system of water collectors or storm water inlets. Pipes are laid underground, through which water flows into the general drainage, and then into the water intake. Such devices are installed under drainpipes on the street or, if it is a land plot, then at its lowest level.

Deep drainage regulates water balance through perforated pipes. They are laid directly under the ground and absorb excess moisture.

Do-it-yourself site drainage on clay soils

I would like to repeat that the surface water drainage system allows you to get rid of its excess, which flows down from the roofs, accumulates near the paths and terraces. Before you do the drainage of the site with your own hands on clay soils , you need to decide on its type (point or linear). The difference is that in the first case, water is diverted from specific areas of a small area, and the second is appropriate if it is necessary to prevent the fertile soil layer from being washed away.

So, the arrangement of surface-type drainage begins with drawing up a diagram of what happens, taking into account the places where water stagnates. The system consists of a main trench and auxiliary ditches where liquid from puddles will be discharged. Drains from downpipes are directed to the main trenches. By the way, the pit must be dug under a certain slope, which will ensure the gravity direction of the water towards the water intake. Do-it-yourself drainage of a site on clay soils implies providing a slope of 0.002.

After trenches 0.5 m wide and approximately 0.7 m deep have been dug, the walls should be formed at an angle of 30 degrees. The water inlet must be located below the level of the entire system. Thus, it will be possible to ensure the interception and removal of excess moisture, and this will also reduce the level of groundwater. Considering that do-it-yourself drainage on the site in this way is not entirely aesthetically pleasing, special trays are now provided that are laid in trenches, after which they are covered with a lattice-type lid.

What should happen

Installation of a deep site drainage system

Depth of pipes in the ground

For the arrangement, it is necessary to use perforated pipes and roll materials. According to standard scheme, first the water must get into the collecting drains, after that - into the main ones. And then into the well, and only after that it is dumped into the water intake. Their role can be played by ditches along roads, rivers, streams, ravines or storm sewer systems. Be sure to equip inspection holes.

So that the installation of the water drainage system is not done in vain, it is necessary to correctly calculate the depth of the pipes, which is very difficult to do without the help of surveyors or hydrogeologists. These specialists will make all the necessary measurements to determine where the groundwater is located.

Drainage scheme for a site with a deep system

In order for the drainage of the site with your own hands to perform all its functions, it is important to use pipes specially designed for this. Their peculiarity lies in the fact that on the surface there is a network of holes 1.5-5 mm in diameter. If earlier pipes made of ceramics or a mixture of asbestos and cement were used for these purposes, now there are polymer pipes designed specifically for hydromelioration, their diameter ranges from 50-200 mm. Some models are even equipped with a filter shell.

Interested in how to properly drain the site? It all starts with digging trenches 40 cm wide, the depth depends on where the groundwater flows.

Then a layer of sand and crushed stone is poured into the finished channels, which acts as a pillow, on top of which the necessary pipes are laid, they must also be covered with a mixture of crushed stone and sand.

The trench should be filled with half of its height, the free space is filled with loam, the final stage of installation is the embankment of the upper, fertile layer of the earth.

In the deep system, as well as in the surface, wells must be constructed. They are designed to control the drainage process and clean clogged hollow objects of round cross section. For this, reinforced concrete rings or piece waterproof products can be used, to some extent it depends on the installation depth of the system.

Mistakes that should not be made when installing a cleaning system at their summer cottage

The most common mistake that is made when trying to design the drainage of a site with your own hands is neglecting the design stage. The fact is that, first of all, it is necessary to understand the current situation in detail, namely: to analyze the land plot and determine the nature of groundwater. Without taking into account some details, you can come to the conclusion that they will enter the basement of your house, negatively affecting the foundation.

Ground and melt water can cause serious trouble. This is especially true for loamy and clayey soil areas, since this type of soil prevents the passage of water, which leads to decay of plant roots. In this case, you can do the drainage of the site on clay soils with your own hands.

Since clay and loam do not pass water well, it accumulates in the soil, because of this, the roots of plants begin to rot. At the same time, covering with a fertile layer of soil does not correct the situation.

If a drain or drainage system is not equipped on peat soil or clay, then a little rain is enough to country house or cottages turned into a swamp. It is impossible to work on such land for a long time, in addition to this, there is a high probability that the foundation will flood or freeze when the cold sets in.

Do not place high hopes on waterproofing, as frozen water can destroy its integrity.

As mentioned above, in this case there is only one way out - the creation of a drainage system.

Preparatory stage

Before proceeding with the choice of the type of drainage system, it is necessary to subject the site to a thorough analysis, namely:

  • determine the structure of the soil;
  • find out what is causing the high humidity.

According to the results of the analysis, the type of drainage system is selected. Next, you need to draw up a plan that indicates where and at what depth the various elements of the drainage type system will be located. After that, construction can begin.

Types of drainage systems

For soil in which clay predominates, reservoir, surface or deep drainage options can be used. In some cases, it makes sense to use several types together in order to increase the efficiency of drainage. Let's consider each type in detail.

Surface type drainage systems

This type is ideal in cases where the site is located on a natural slope. For drainage, channels slightly deepened in the ground are created, through which water flows independently into the drainage well. They can be laid on any flat surface, for example, along the perimeter of a building, near a sidewalk or around a lawn.

Gutters are laid in the channel, from above they can be covered with a protective grate.


Deep drainage systems

If it is necessary to divert a large amount of water on clay soil, it is recommended to give preference to deep drainage systems. They are systems of underground pipelines that serve to divert water to places of accumulation.

Deep systems may include from one to several main drainage channels directed to a common catchment area. Their depth of occurrence varies from 1 to 1.5 m, while the width does not exceed 50 cm. Drainage pipes are installed in the channels. Auxiliary lines are connected to the main line, collecting water from the soil surface.

How the trench of deep drainage systems is arranged is shown in the figure.


The figure indicates:

  • A - a layer of fertile soil (thickness 20 cm);
  • B - backfill soil (20cm);
  • C - this layer is covered with crushed stone (30cm);
  • D - pipe with a diameter of 110mm;
  • E - geotextile coating;
  • F - "pillow" of sand;
  • G - soil.

Formation drainage systems

This type of drainage, as well as the previous type, belongs to the deep ones. It is used when it becomes necessary to drain groundwater from the structure (foundation). It is installed directly under the building. The drainage system is a layer of rubble, from which water is diverted into pipes laid around the building.

It should be noted that the size of this system must exceed the area of ​​​​the building under which it is located.


List of tools and materials

To independently create a drainage system on clay-type soil, you will need to prepare the following tools:

  • shovels (they are used for laying ditches);
  • level (to check the slope);
  • stretcher or wheelbarrow (with their help, soil is carried out);
  • hacksaw for cutting pipes;
  • marking cord.

From materials for surface systems you will need:

  • geotextile, it serves as a filter for water that will enter the drainage system;
  • to create a sprinkle and a pillow, you need sand and gravel;
  • gutters made of concrete or plastic, as well as sand traps and storm water inlets;
  • cement.

If you plan to make a deep system, you will additionally need special (perforated) plastic pipes with a diameter of 100 to 110 mm, as well as elements for connecting them.

Video: How to make soil drainage in a country house in the garden

If you do not want to make a storage well with your own hands, into which water will flow from the drainage in an area where there is clay soil, the tank can be purchased ready-made (the price for it is quite affordable).

Self-creation of a surface system

The sequence of actions is as follows:

  • trenches are dug, according to the plan of the drainage system. In this case, a slope should be observed towards the place of disposal of drainage water. This action is greatly simplified if the site has a natural slope. It is enough to dig a trench 80 cm deep and 40 cm wide;
  • at the bottom of the trenches, a “cushion” is made of sand, which is covered with a layer of gravel, if desired, turf can be placed on top, after which the system can be operated.

If it is planned to install a gutter in the trenches, then they can be made less deep. In this case, the gravel is poured cement mortar, on which gutters and other elements are installed (storm water inlets, sand traps, etc.). From above, the gutter is closed with a special protective grate, which can play the role of decor.


Photo: installing a gutter in a trench

Self-creation of a deep system

The arrangement of this type of drainage system will take more time. Its creation begins with the installation of a collector well, after which they begin to lay the main and auxiliary highways.

The depth of the trenches should be 1.2 m for the main drainage system and about a meter for auxiliary (additional) channels. The width is sufficient 50cm, both for the first and second.

It is important that the main channels reach the drainage well. Auxiliary trenches should have a slope of about five centimeters per meter. The bottom of the trench is covered with sand to create a pillow. On top of it, as well as along the edges of the trench, geotextiles are laid, after which the channel is covered with a 20-centimeter layer of crushed stone.

At the next stage, perforated plastic pipes are laid. Do not forget to check the level of the slope.

Where the pipes are turned, as well as at intervals of 25 meters, revision wells are installed.

At the last stage, the pipes are covered with gravel, wrapped in geotextiles, after which the ditch is leveled to the same level as the soil.


Photo: the central highway of the deep drainage system

As you can see, it is quite possible to do the drainage of a site on clay soils with your own hands, even if it takes some time, but in any case, the cost will be lower than attracting builders for this purpose.

Flooding of a site with groundwater and meltwater can be a real disaster for its owner. Precipitation can also contribute to the violation of the soil structure. It is especially bad for the owners of land consisting mainly of clay or loam, since clay greatly retains water, hardly passing it through itself. In these cases, the only salvation may be a properly constructed drainage. For such soil, it has its own characteristics. Therefore, we will consider how to make drainage of the site with your own hands on clay soils.

Plants suffer from an excess of moisture in the first place. Their roots do not receive the amount of oxygen necessary for development. The result is deplorable - the plants wither at first, and then completely disappear. Moreover, this also applies to cultivated plants, and to lawn grasses. Even in cases where clay is covered from above with a layer of fertile soil, water will be difficult to drain.

The comfort of work on the site is also important, because in the absence of a drain, even a little rain can turn clay soil into a swamp. It will be impossible to work on such land for several days.

When the water does not leave for a long time, there is a risk of flooding the foundation and freezing it when cold weather sets in. Even very good waterproofing is sometimes not able to protect the foundation from destruction, since it itself can be destroyed by frozen moisture.

We conclude: drainage of the site from groundwater is simply necessary. And if it has not been done yet, then you should not postpone its construction.

Preparation for the construction of the drainage system

Before choosing the type of drainage system, you should analyze your site.

Attention is drawn to the following points:

  • Soil structure. In our case, clay is considered, which is not able to quickly pass water;
  • Source of high moisture. This may be frequent precipitation or groundwater lying close to the surface;
  • The type of drainage is selected or several types are combined;
  • A plan is drawn up for the location of drainage trenches, revision and catchment wells. The plan indicates the depth of the drains, the dimensions of all elements of the system, their slope relative to the soil surface. The plan will allow you to quickly find the location of all elements of the system.

After such preparation, they begin to build the drainage of the site with their own hands on clay soils. Let's consider what kind of drainage happens, and which one is better suited for a clay area.

Types of drainage systems

Drainage on clay area can be surface, deep or reservoir. Sometimes it is advisable to combine several of these types to achieve the greatest drainage efficiency.

Surface drainage

If the site has even a slight natural slope, this creates additional advantages for surface drainage. Water flows by itself through the channels laid on the site to the designated place. Such channels are located on the surface of the soil, slightly deepening them into the ground. Surface drainage of a site on clay soils can be laid on almost any level ground: along paths, around a building, along the perimeter of lawns, near recreation areas and in other places.


Reservoir drainage

This type of drainage is created even before the construction of the foundation begins. The soil deepens below its location by at least 20 cm. The soil layer is also removed wider than the place where the foundation passes. Crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the pit with a layer of 20 cm, and along the perimeter there are drainage pipes. All moisture penetrating under the foundation is collected in pipes, from where it is discharged through separately laid pipelines to the drainage wells.

Tip: The depth of the reservoir drainage should exceed the depth of the clay soil. In this case, drainage will be most effective.

This type of drainage is quite laborious, therefore it is used less often, although it is useful for clay soils.

Care drainage system consists only in its cleaning and pumping out water from the collector well. If everything is done correctly, then no clay on the site can overshadow your mood and destroy the plants you grow.