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Compatibility of fruit trees in your garden. Orchard: compatibility of trees and shrubs, planting patterns Apple and currant compatibility

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I very carefully studied the issue of compatibility of plants in the garden in scientific work and in practice. I will share with you my findings.

Some plants in the garden do not get along with each other. Causes of plant incompatibility are the following:

1) the roots of neighboring plants lie at the same depth and prevent each other from growing,
2) one neighbor plant emits substances that are harmful and unpleasant for another neighbor plant,
3) neighboring plants simultaneously consume nutrients (some category of them), which is why both of them lack them,
4) one plant attracts or provides "shelter" for pests of a neighboring plant.
There are other reasons as well.

Respectively plants can be good friends , whose roots are located at different levels, which secrete substances useful to their neighbor, do not compete due to nutrients. You also need to take into account the mode of irrigation. It happens that one plant needs abundant watering, while another prefers to receive watering only a few times a year. It is clear that it is very undesirable to plant them nearby. Well, you need to think about the shadow. If one plant grows and closes the neighbor from the desired sun, then such a neighbor will not be able to grow well and bear fruit abundantly.
That is why it is very desirable to consider which plants in the garden can be placed next to each other and which cannot.
But here we must warn you that the various compatibility tables that you find on the Internet are often not based on scientific information. The fact is that you will not find serious in-depth studies on this topic in the afternoon with fire. Who will lead them in the absence of funding? So all these tables are often compiled on the basis of observations of individual gardeners, their exchange of experience.

There is A few more points to consider when placing plants in the garden, they are not related to compatibility and incompatibility, but they will certainly come in handy when planning a garden.

1) We try not to plant under the trees those shrubs on which the berries ripen during the period when the trees need to be sprayed. So that the poison does not get on the fruits of the bush. This approach applies not only to shrubs, but also to other "edible" plants. And not every poison needed to protect a tree should be allowed to its undersized neighbors.

2) If a neighbor in the plot has good healthy pears near our fence, then perhaps we will also plant pears on his side so that they pollinate each other. Pollinators are also important to consider.

I will give a table in which I summarized information about the compatibility and incompatibility in the garden of the following plants: apple, pear, quince, cherry, sweet cherry, plum, cherry plum, apricot, peach, mountain ash, viburnum, walnut, hazelnut, hawthorn, shadberry, black currant , red currant, golden currant, gooseberry, raspberry, blackberry, honeysuckle, sea buckthorn, barberry, dogwood, wild rose, grapes, actinidia, Chinese magnolia vine, wild strawberry. From it you will learn what you can or even need to plant in the garden with what, and what you can’t with what.

Table of compatibility and incompatibility of trees, shrubs, vines, strawberries and other plants in the garden

Many gardeners note that it is good to plant spicy plants anise, basil, coriander, lemon balm, parsley, thyme, tarragon in the garden. Their odorous substances repel many pests and curb the spread of diseases. But beware of eating such garden plants after spraying them with pesticides.

What cultures can grow together with others, and which neighborhood is contraindicated? This table will help you make the right choice.

common basil

Compatible plants: peas, kohlrabi.
Incompatible plants: cucumber.
The best predecessors: No.

Eggplant

Compatible plants: green annuals, onion, beans, peppers.
Incompatible plants: peas, fennel.
The best predecessors: cucumber, cabbage, greens, legumes.

Peas

Compatible plants: white cabbage, watercress, sweet corn, potatoes, carrots, aromatic plants, lettuce, spinach.
Incompatible plants: onion, tomato, beans, garlic, zucchini.
The best predecessors: pumpkin, root, cabbage, corn, potatoes.

Sarepta mustard

Compatible plants: white cabbage, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, cauliflower, peas, radish.
Incompatible plants: No.
The best predecessors: No.

You can find a wide range of seeds of greens and herbs in our catalog, which combines the offers of various garden online stores. .

melon ordinary

Compatible plants: sugar corn.
Incompatible plants: potato.
The best predecessors: onions, legumes, root crops.

White cabbage

Compatible plants: potatoes, cucumber, radish, lettuce, beetroot, celery, garlic, beans, peas, fennel, spinach, endive.
Incompatible plants: carrots, beans.
The best predecessors

kohlrabi cabbage

Compatible plants: onion, cucumber, aromatic plants, radish, lettuce, table beet, peas, scorzonera, fennel, spinach.
Incompatible plants: tomato, beans.
The best predecessors: No.

leafy cabbage

Compatible plants: late white cabbage, potatoes.
Incompatible plants: No.
The best predecessors: cucumber, onion, tomato, potato, root crops, legumes.

Cauliflower

Compatible plants: potato, cucumber, lettuce, celery.
Incompatible plants: tomato.
The best predecessors: annual legumes, pumpkin, early tomatoes, potatoes, onions, carrots.

Potato

Compatible plants: beans, eggplant, calendula, corn, white cabbage, onion, radish, radish, garlic, beans, horseradish.
Incompatible plants: cucumber, tomato, sorrel, pumpkin, fennel.
The best predecessors: No.

Kozelets Spanish

Compatible plants: cabbage, onion, carrot, lettuce.
Incompatible plants: No.
The best predecessors: No.

crookneck

Compatible plants: No.
Incompatible plants: No.
The best predecessors: potatoes, cabbage, onions, root vegetables, legumes, greens.

Corn

Compatible plants: peas, zucchini, late white cabbage, potatoes, cucumber, pumpkin, beans, beans, lettuce.
Incompatible plants: beetroot, fennel.
The best predecessors: legumes, early vegetables, onion, cucumber.

Leek

Compatible plants: onion, carrot, celery.
Incompatible plants: No.
The best predecessors: pumpkin and nightshade crops.

More publications about leek: You will surely find all the necessary vegetable seeds in our catalog, because it contains offers from large online stores of seeds and planting material. .

table carrot

Compatible plants: peas, broccoli, leek, onion, cucumber, parsley, radish, lettuce, beetroot, sage, spinach, scorzonera, radish.
Incompatible plants: dill, fennel, cabbage, beet chard.
The best predecessors: early potatoes and cabbage, legumes, cucumber, onion, tomato.

Parsnip cultivated

Compatible plants: salad.
Incompatible plants: onion, garlic.
The best predecessors: No.

Squash

Compatible plants: No.
Incompatible plants: No.
The best predecessors: potatoes or other vegetables, except for pumpkin.

Capsicum

Compatible plants: eggplant.
Incompatible plants: No.
The best predecessors: annual legumes, cabbage, cucumber.

Compatible plants: basil, onion, cucumber, asparagus, tomato, beans.
Incompatible plants: head lettuce.
The best predecessors: No.

Rhubarb

Compatible plants: peas, cabbage, radish, lettuce, celery, beans, spinach.
Incompatible plants: No.
The best predecessors: No.

Common radish

Compatible plants: carrot, cucumber, tomato, melon, parsnip, table beet, pumpkin, spinach, fennel, beans, cabbage.
Incompatible plants: hyssop, onion, cucumber, beet chard.
The best predecessors: legumes, cucumber, tomato, early potatoes.

Turnip garden

Compatible plants: radish.
Incompatible plants: No.
The best predecessors: cucumber, zucchini, tomato, legumes, potatoes.

More posts about lettuce.

The compatibility of plants with each other is probably the most topical issue gardeners, because our harvest will depend on the proximity of plants to each other.

Now there is such a science as allelopathy. It's funny, but in Greek, this word means joint suffering. Those. in fact, it is the science of how plants can mutually influence each other - oppressing some and helping others. It turns out that in nature, plants behave in the same way as people.

Below I give an excerpt from the book of B.V. Bublik, a well-known agronomist in Russia for organic farming- Melange garden

Watermelons. Watermelon is a good companion for potatoes, oat root. Corn and peas improve the growth and taste of watermelons. Contribute to the growth of watermelons sow thistle and gauze.

Eggplant. Helps eggplant grow healthy amaranth (of course, in small quantities). The beans keep the Colorado potato beetle away. The space between the eggplants (rather extensive) can be successfully used for a salad. It is useful to surround the eggplant with basil. Tarragon and thyme can help in the fight against flea (in a pinch, infusions).

Okra. Okra is a strong, tall plant, the stem is fibrous (okra is one of the types of jute), and okra bushes can be left in the garden in the winter, and peas can be planted in the spring to the finished trellis. It is good to plant peppers, eggplants, melons, cucumbers with okra.

Peas. Peas are a great company for almost all vegetables (potatoes, tomatoes, carrots, turnips, radishes, cucumbers, corn, beans) and aromatic herbs. The exception is all sorts of bows and gladioli. Cabbage plants prevent root rot in peas. Lettuce, spinach and even eggplant grow well in the shade of peas.

Melons. Potatoes inhibit the growth of melons and can cause them to wilt. The close proximity of cucumbers is harmful to melons - they can mutually pollinate, and both will become bitter. Help melons grow radishes and gauze.

Cabbage. Although different types cabbages (headed cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi) grow and develop differently, their problems and their behavior in phytocenoses are similar. Cabbage butterflies are driven away from cabbage by celery, thyme, hyssop, wormwood. The neighborhood of aromatic herbs (dill, chamomile, mint, sage), various types of onions (turnips, shallots, batun, chaivis, leeks), and beans are useful for cabbage. Compatible cabbage with potatoes. This is some kind of mysticism, explainable only by allelopathy (this time - “good”): such a tight, tasty and clean cabbage, as planted between the rows of potatoes after hilling, simply did not have to be seen. "Not to your liking" cabbage strawberries and tomatoes. She herself oppresses the grapes. Cauliflower "does not like" the neighborhood of cucumbers and beets, as well as tall plants that shade it.

Potato. Many plants can make a useful company for potatoes: beans, beets, corn, lettuce, radishes, coriander, nasturtium, flax, tansy, catnip, horseradish, amaranth. But the potato has an affectionate "companion" - the Colorado potato beetle. Therefore, we single out among the possible neighbors those who can help the potato in this trouble. Well protects potatoes from the Colorado horseradish beetle. But horseradish is extremely aggressive - its roots can stretch many meters deep and wide, and it can grow from any piece of root. There is no such organization of joint planting of potatoes and horseradish that would save the garden from clogging with horseradish. Something similar can be said about tansy with catnip. They are also expansive (they tend to expand their territory) and cannot be planted along with potatoes. But infusions of tansy and catnip can be successfully used against the beetle. An infusion of catnip contains the poison nepetakton, which is detrimental to the larvae. Delphinium infusion has the same property. Legumes provide some protection against the beetle. Seeds of peas and beans (and even heat-loving beans) can simply be thrown into the hole when planting potatoes and then, as it were, forgotten about them. Repel the beetle (unfortunately, slightly) coriander, nasturtium, flax. They can be sown at random, but it is still better on the south side of the row: they will cover the soil near the potato bushes and protect the roots from unwanted overheating. Marigolds are also unpleasant for the beetle, but they are allelopathic enough to be good company for potatoes. Since the beetle finds potatoes by smell, basil can be confusing. In the fight against the beetle, you can use trap plants. If there is extra seedlings, you can plant eggplants on potatoes - rarely, bushes after 20. Beetles are lured by this plant, which is more tasty for them, and it is easier to collect them here. Datura and belladonna (Belladonna) are even more graceful in this role. Female beetles lay their eggs on these nightshades, and the larvae literally find themselves in a trap: the leaves are deadly poisonous for them, and they are unable to change the plant, and they don’t want to. True, the creation of these traps is a rather troublesome task: to prepare seeds, sow them at the right time and in the right place (and even better, grow seedlings), and then protect yourself from self-sowing. If the garden is not flooded with pesticides, then birds - titmouse, finches, robins, thrushes, nuthatches, orioles can provide significant assistance in the fight against the beetle. Effective in the fight against the beetle, an infusion of walnut leaves is available (and recommended by many manuals). But the yuglon poison contained in them is very resistant, unlike the nepetacton or the curare-like delphinium poison. Of course, if we “live alone”, then you can water the garden with juglone. But then it's even "better" to sprinkle with DDT.
Another serious misfortune for potatoes is late blight. A plant that can help potatoes in the fight against late blight is garlic. Not only by itself, as a neighbor, but also as a source of raw materials for the infusion. Some plants, on the contrary, help late blight. Weaken the ability of potatoes to resist the disease growing in the neighborhood of raspberries and, of course, tomatoes. Sunflowers, pumpkins, zucchini, and cucumbers can all be home to late blight, although they don't suffer from it themselves.
Potatoes promote the growth of cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage, bok choy, onion. Apple trees and potatoes have a bad effect on each other: ripening apples inhibit the growth of potatoes, and that (in retaliation, or what?) Prevents the absorption of phosphorus and nitrogen by apple trees. Bad in the neighborhood with turnip potatoes and pumpkin.

Onion. Luka is good in company with different type cabbages. He also likes onions, strawberries, tomatoes, lettuce, savory and (in small quantities) chamomile and petunia. Perennial bows (batun, chayvis) are good in circles near roses. The neighborhood of carrots and potatoes is especially useful for onions. Brilliant company - borage, thistle, nettle. Bad - peas, sage, beans, gladios. Bow drillers don't like it.

Carrot. All kinds of onions, garlic, oat root are good with carrots, dill and anise are bad. Flowering (seed) carrots attract beneficial insects. It is not necessary to plant carrots near an apple tree - both carrots and apples will be bitter.
Oat root. The oat root repels the onion fly, so its seeds can be mixed with carrot seeds (also repelling the onion fly) and sown in rows interspersed with onions.

cucumbers. Cucumbers are very good together with corn. Corn protects cucumbers from bacterial wilt, and together they drive away ants. The neighborhood of beans, peas, radishes, kohlrabi, cabbage, lettuce, celery, cauliflower, sunflowers favorably affects cucumbers. You can sow a few radish seeds around the cucumber hole and forget about it. Let it grow and bloom for itself, let harmful insects (cucumber beetle, for example) scare away, useful insects attract. Some weeds add energy to cucumbers: quinoa, gauze, sow thistle, tansy. The neighborhood of tall plants that give a light shade is useful for cucumbers. Shiritsa sacrificially entices the caterpillars that gnaw the roots.

Parsnip. An infusion of parsnip leaves and roots is an excellent spray against many insects. It is both a repellent and an insecticide (it can not only repel, but also kill insects). Parsnips themselves have almost no problems with pests and diseases. Parsnip is frost-resistant and can overwinter in the soil. Flowering (in the second year) parsnips are attractive to beneficial insects. He is a good companion for radishes. Peas and other legumes help him grow.

Pepper. Pepper is good with basil - they render mutual services to each other. Pepper gets along well with okra, which shelters the fragile stems of pepper from the wind, and the fruits from the sun. Aphids from pepper can be repelled by onions, tansy, coriander, catnip, marigolds. You can use nasturtium as a trap. It is advisable to avoid proximity to beans, which, like peppers, are affected by anthracnose (black soft spots appear on the fruits).

Tomatoes. When creating companies with tomatoes, one must keep in mind both potato (and tomato too) enemies: the Colorado potato beetle and late blight. The beetle, however, is not so scary. He attacks tomatoes rarely, in case of obvious provocation. To do this, for example, you need to plant tomatoes next to potatoes - then the beetle will easily move from drying potato tops to tomatoes. Or you just need to be unlucky and during the drying of the potato tops, a steady wind from the tomatoes blew on the potato beds. Late blight is worse. When ideal conditions are created for late blight epiphytosis, it inevitably comes. Of course, something can be achieved by prevention, for example, by blowing through the “bottom”. But more often you have to resort to spraying - garlic infusion or biological products (phytosporin, EM-5, etc.). Tomatoes are compatible with carrots, parsley, onions, garlic, chaivis, borage and many flowers, in particular, with space. Garlic protects tomatoes from spider mites. Basil improves the growth and taste of tomatoes, increases their resistance to diseases, and repels the horned worm. Stinging and deaf nettles improve the taste and growth of tomatoes (you can make an infusion of nettle tops to feed tomatoes). In small quantities, amaranth is useful. Tomato leaves contain solanine, and an infusion of the leaves can be used to protect roses and gooseberries from black spot. Root secretions of tomatoes are harmful to apricots. Do not plant corn and tomatoes next to each other.

Beet. Beets grow well with onions, carrots, lettuce, radishes, and any cabbage except cauliflower. She is not harmed by some shading, which, for example, Brussels sprouts can give. Curly beans and mustard are unpleasant for beets as neighbors. Sprinkling beets with infusions of mint or catnip, you can rid it of a flea. The flea, however, brings beets only "cosmetic" damage. Worse with aphids. If aphid colonies have appeared on the beets, they can cause noticeable damage to it. Infusions of mint and catnip are suitable against aphids, but more effective is a decoction of rhubarb leaves or garlic infusion. Especially carefully it is necessary to look after the beets, growing next to Brussels sprouts, adored by aphids more than all vegetables. By the way, some birds like aphids - sparrows, titmouse, finches, nuthatch.

Celery. Celery grows well with leeks, tomatoes, cabbage, bush beans. In the roots of celery love to gather earthworms: to encourage them, you can sow celery in a circle, creating a semblance of a house for the worms. Celery loves shade. In it, it grows more fragrant.

Soy. Like all legumes, soybeans loosen and enrich the soil. Suppresses weeds. Grows well with many plants, in particular wheat. Corn benefits greatly from the company of soy. Soy repels corn bugs. Volatile substances released by soybean leaves stimulate the absorption of phosphorus by corn. And with the help of nodule bacteria, soybeans feed corn with nitrogen.

Pumpkin. Pumpkin grows well with corn. The radish planted around the hole helps the pumpkin fight pests. Good in this role and nasturtium. Contribute to better growth of gauze, quinoa, sow thistle (of course, not in debilitating quantities).
Beans. Beans are good with a little celery. It grows wonderfully with cucumbers, intertwining with them to mutual pleasure. Useful beans in strawberries. She helps corn, pumpkin. The radish company is mutually beneficial. Carrots help beans grow. A wonderful pair is formed by beans and savory. Both have an improved taste, pests do not find their way to them. Curly beans are bad with beets, kohlrabi, sunflowers. All onions and gladioli oppress the beans.

Garlic. Unusually good garlic in a companion garden. It repels slugs, all kinds of caterpillars, even moles. Garlic makes excellent universal infusion, effective in the fight against aphids, spider mites, late blight. It saves cucumbers, radishes, spinach, beans from some fungal diseases. Mistresses have long been putting garlic cloves in grain, flour, and cereals. Garlic is good to surround fruit trees, protecting them from borers, and roses, protecting them from black spot. Garlic grows magnificently in the company of many plants (even with a very allelopathic vetch!). An irreplaceable neighbor for strawberries, which suffer more than others from slugs. And only peas and beans with garlic are bad - it inhibits their growth.

Spices
Here we will talk about herbs that are good both on the table and in the garden. They add taste and aroma to food, plants - energy and resistance to pests and diseases, soil - fertility, vegetables - harvest, garden - beauty.

Basil. If we talk about spices in our gardens and start not with basil, God will not forgive. What other herb is so beautiful - what does it taste, what does it smell, what does it look like?
And yet, basil is interesting not only from a culinary and aesthetic point of view. It also carries some "social" burdens. Drives away the horned worm from tomatoes and corn. Keeps ants away. A crushed basil leaf is the best (and most enjoyable) mosquito repellant. Basil grows very well with sweet pepper, poorly with rue. Adds energy to neighboring plants. Repels aphids and ticks from them. Embarrassing Colorado potato beetle. Disperses flies in the kitchen.

Oregano and marjoram. Oregano (mother) and its cultural analogue marjoram are good both in the kitchen and in the garden. They have a persistent pungent smell, reminiscent of the smell of thyme. All plants near oregano and marjoram are good: both growth and taste improve. The neighborhood with them is especially useful for cabbage: they drive away the cabbage butterfly.

snakehead. The snakehead (Turkish mint) owes its name to the seeds - black, flattened, with two white specks. It, like basil, attracts and shelters beneficial insects, protects plants from pests. As for his behavior in companies, we can say that observations of the snakehead for ten years have not yet given reason to believe that someone is ill with him.
Due to the "ankles" snakehead can give support and favorable shade to cucumbers.

Hyssop. Not everyone likes the camphor smell of hyssop, so it may seem out of place in salads. But for the treatment of various diseases of the respiratory system - chronic cough, bronchitis, bronchial asthma - it is indispensable (used as an infusion). For this alone, you can find a place for him. It is to find it, because hyssop, unfortunately, is expansive and over time it can become larger than we would like. Hyssop attracts bees and repels many pests. Increases grape yield. It is bad for radishes and radishes near hyssop.

Coriander. Coriander has a lot of virtues. It is very useful for anise: it improves seed germination, improves growth, increases the size of umbrellas. Promotes the growth of cumin rosettes (in the first year). Well repels aphids from the plants she adores. It blooms luxuriously and attracts a lot of beneficial insects.
Coriander is a good neighbor for almost all plants. He only oppresses

fennel. And rightly so this "bully", from which it is bad, consider, to the whole garden.
And finally, the most important advantage of coriander (from a social point of view): it can be sown anywhere (and at any time). And in the garden with wintering coriander, you can plant and sow any crops directly on the "stubble", without digging: the soil is so carefully "plowed" by its roots.

Mint. Mint is a favorite of the convivial garden. Its strong, pungent odor repels pests. In the neighborhood with it, the growth and taste of cabbage and tomatoes improves. Flowers attract beneficial insects. Mint gives a unique aroma to lamb meat, egg, pea, potato dishes. One trouble with mint is a tendency to unrestrained expansion of the occupied area. So it is necessary to choose a place for her with some caution. It is more difficult to “string” mint in the garden than to plant it on the window: dig up the rhizomes in deep enough autumn, put them in a box, cover them with soil by 3-4 cm, carefully water and feast on them all winter.
Mint is suitable for fungicidal solutions.

Borage. Borage (borage) stimulates the growth of many plants, especially strawberries. Just keep in mind that the borage bush grows over time and must be cut off or removed altogether if it begins to strongly obscure other plants. Increases in its presence the resistance of plants to diseases. Borage is also known as an indispensable tool in the fight against cabbage caterpillars.

Parsley. The role of parsley in an intensive vegetable garden is significant. The neighborhood of parsley gives health to tomatoes and improves their taste. Parsley rosettes cover the soil under tall plants well and enliven the flower landscape. It is useful to “ring” whimsical roses with parsley.
Blooming second-year parsley provides shelter and food for a host of beneficial insects. You can keep the "extra" flowering parsley bushes in the garden, but, in order to avoid self-seeding, send them to the compost heap when the seeds begin to ripen. Usually the parsley that gave the seeds dries out.
From carrot flies, which can bother parsley, as well as slugs, you can protect yourself with leeks. A wonderful, technologically compatible company. In summer, leeks cover the parsley from the sun. Both cultures (at least partially) remain to winter in the ground. They should be covered with light mulch, opened early in the spring and cut early greens from both.
The joint planting of parsley and leek is organized as follows. As soon as work in the garden becomes possible, parsley is sown in ribbons 5-6 cm wide with row spacing of 30 cm. And after a couple of weeks, 10-week seedlings of leeks are planted in the aisles - and the bed is formed. Until the parsley sprouts, you need to keep the bed clean, let the soil warm up, and then mulch and no longer disturb the chopper until next spring. You may need to pull out weeds that have broken through the mulch from time to time.
Parsley is chock-full of vitamin E. It's hard to name a dish that it could spoil. And among the Caucasians, famous for their longevity and "agility", a table is simply unthinkable without fragrant parsley sprigs.

Watercress. This herb is an even more obligatory spice on the Caucasian table than parsley. The ease of growing watercress is beyond anything imaginable. It is enough to scatter the seeds, and you may not have time to sprinkle them - they sprout so quickly. But seriously, it takes him two or three days to germinate.
As a culture for companies, watercress does not deserve good words. It oppresses (and this is not a folklore, but a scientific fact!) the shoots of many cultures, even the wiki that knows how to hit back. It is bad in the neighborhood with him and the plants that have already appeared. So it is necessary to sow watercress separately

Ruta. Rue is at odds with basil. And roses and raspberries are a good protector from pests. The only trouble with rue is that its leaves can burn the skin when it is in bloom. If trouble happens, you need to wash your hands with soap and grease with vegetable oil.
Ruta grows well with almost all flowers, vegetables, shrubs and trees. At the compost heap and around the household yard helps to get rid of flies.
Rue has an unusual, but very useful property: if your favorite cat likes to scratch your favorite furniture, then you need to rub the places accessible to the cat on the furniture with rue leaves. And the furniture will be intact, and the cat "will not work."

Dill. About dill, right, everyone knows everything. But there is one misconception, which, when discussing the sociable properties of plants, it must be said. Usually dill grows anywhere, self-seeding. Some gardeners do not even sow it at all, but manage with shoots of carrion, carefully bypassing them when weeding. This is what you shouldn't do. Many plants (especially potatoes, carrots, tomatoes) do not like the neighborhood of dill. It significantly inhibits their growth, reduces the yield. Reduces significantly, clearly. It is strange that many gardeners do not see this.
Dill also has friends. In the neighborhood with him, cabbage grows better and tastier. Not bad for onions, lettuce, cucumbers. Cucumbers are especially useful shade from dill. Dill umbrellas are very tempting for beneficial insects.

Fennel. Folklore is unknown to plants - friends of fennel. But this does not mean that he has no place in the garden. It attracts and harbors so many useful insects that it can compete with such "temptors" as tansy, angelica (angelica), goldenrod. It can only yield to katran, but katran blooms for only two weeks, and fennel for several months. It blooms even after the first frosts, when the fennel's brother, dill, has already drooped under the onslaught of cold. This refers to the dill sown for the fall, and not the dill of the spring "call" - this has long since gone cold.
It is necessary to sow fennel in the garden, it is very necessary, only a place for it - a ruffy one - should be chosen isolated, without neighbors.

Sage. Sage is indispensable near cabbage - cabbage gives taste and juiciness, but pests do not like it. Sage with carrots is good (the carrot fly cannot stand it). But sage is contraindicated for cucumbers.

Thyme. Thyme grows not only in the garden. He creeps into wild nature, on sunny slopes. It is better to propagate it not by seeds, but by dividing the rhizomes.
Young leaves and shoots are used like any other edible herb. Dried thyme makes an excellent tea. Fragrant bath with a decoction of thyme. You can grow thyme in any corner of the garden. It is a weak eater, grows slowly and does not compete with anyone for light or nutrients. Improves the taste of vegetables, repels pests, attracts bees, hoverflies and other beneficial insects. An excellent companion for eggplants, potatoes, tomatoes.
Some crops can be sprayed with thyme decoction: it masks the “native” smell. Information about cabbage is contradictory: the neighborhood with thyme is useful for cabbage itself, but the smell of thyme does not frighten its pests. Good "carpet" of thyme under roses, anise, corn.

Chaivis. Also called spring onion, chives, chives, this fragrant onion is good because it delivers a tender, non-roughening feather from snow to snow. Decorates salads and various dishes. The taste of his feather is softer than the feather of a turnip.
Chaivis is good in companies with carrots, tomatoes, roses, grapes. A circle of chaivis around an apple tree will protect it from scab, and around a rose - from black spot. But, like garlic (and all onions in general), it is a poor companion for peas and beans. Chaivis infusion can prevent powdery mildew on cucumbers and gooseberries.
You can easily plant chaivis on the windowsill for forcing fresh herbs in winter: with the onset of cold weather, dig out the required number of bunches, cut them 4-5 cm from the beginning of the roots, hold for 3-4 weeks in the cellar, simulating hibernation, then separate the bunches, easily trim the roots , hold them in hot water and put in a box. It is necessary to collect greens by cutting the whole plants at a level of 4-5 cm above the ground. And in no case do not pinch the feathers - the remaining parts will turn yellow, and the plant will hurt.

Technological crops
Technological here are called crops, often called green manure. It so happened that plowed green fertilizers were always called green manure. And the "fertilizing" function of these crops is far from the most important. More important functions are the protection of the soil during the off-season from rain and wind, the improvement of soil structure, the growth of biomass for compost and mulch ... In the first place is, of course, loosening the soil.

Vika. If suddenly there was no buckwheat in the world, then Vika would not have to ask “My light, mirror, tell me ...” - she would undoubtedly be the best technological culture.
The main and invaluable advantage of the wiki is the creation of amazing soil. It not only loosens and adds organic matter to the soil. By fixing free nitrogen, it enriches the soil with nitrogen compounds available to plants. There is a lot of phosphorus in the tissues of the wiki.
When the vetch blooms, all kinds of pollinating insects swarm around it. It provides shelter for ground beetles (ground beetles) and spiders. It is not necessary, of course, to endure a careful attitude towards the ground beetle to a similar to her kravchik, capable of cutting more than one strawberry bush “under Kotovsky”. Kravchik is noticeably lobaste than the ground beetle and has a shearing apparatus resembling the "claws" of a snowplow. Fortunately, the fight against the kravchik is not difficult: it is enough early in the morning or late in the evening to pour boiling water over its mink (with a fresh ejection of soil).
Beds sown with winter vetch can be planted in spring under heat-loving crops. Bearing in mind the allelopathic nature of the wiki (including the “post-mortem”), it must be planted in the soil 3-4 weeks before planting and allowed to “ferment”. The soil will become loose, structural, rich in nutrients. It should only be taken into account that, while ripening, the vetch “shoots” the seeds for many meters around, and then they sprout for several years.
A vetch prone to lodging needs some kind of "nanny" for whose hem the vetch could hold on. Usually, for this, it is sown with oats (spring) or rye (autumn). As already mentioned, vetch is allelopathic, but don’t put your finger in your mouth with oats and rye either. Of course, the vetch would grow better without these neighbors, but then it would die and rot. However, if the winter vetch is embedded in the soil in the spring, then there is no need for support.
There was a case when barley was sown in the spring to the winter vetch, which was left without support (there was no rye at hand). Vika allowed him to climb, catch up with her (she grows slowly), and then crushed her. To death. She didn’t take away the light - the barley was already higher, she didn’t starve - the “food” in the soil would be enough for both of them, but simply poisoned with root secretions. At that time I had heard a lot about allelopathy, but I did not think that it was so serious. Now I understand that the cultures that support vetch are sown with it at the same time and manage to gain the necessary strength to resist it. But young barley plants did not cope with vetch.
There was another confusion. Once I gave way to peppers a bed with vetch already in the days of planting peppers, losing sight of the “ruffiness” of vetch. The vetch embedded in the soil did not have time to clear itself, and the peppers stood in vain until the fall - they did not even grow decent tops.
It is a pity that such a valuable plant is so aggressive. If we take into account that vetch, cut in bloom, dies, then how many interesting companies could be created with it. But, in the end, Vika does not eat her bread for nothing. No plant can compare with her in creating and protecting the soil during the long off-season.

Buckwheat. It's a shame: such an unusual plant also has a serious drawback - buckwheat is incredibly thermophilic. Even +4 (plus!) degrees is enough for her to turn sour if not to droop. This greatly hinders the creation of companies with buckwheat (also, however, allelopathic). Just wait out the possible spring frosts (and this is right up to June), as September is already on the nose. But still…
Buckwheat can be sown in any clearing formed in the summer. It suppresses weeds well, enriches the soil with organic material, transfers phosphorus from forms inaccessible to other plants into accessible ones, lures bees, hoverflies and wasps rich in nectar from all around.
Excessive thermophilicity of buckwheat is fully compensated by its "agility". She manages to reach the required size and bloom well, even when sown after potatoes. And after garlic, peas, lettuce - give ripened seeds. This is very important, because buckwheat seeds cannot be obtained without the hassle.
Buckwheat is a good neighbor for cabbage. The buckwheat carpet around the cabbage camouflages it, confusing butterflies, scoops and moths, and the cabbage becomes tastier and cleaner.

oats. A harmless-looking culture. But if you sow oats in the former raspberry forest, you can get rid of the inevitable raspberry growth.
Oats are very good as a technological crop. Sown at the end of summer, it will have time to build up a fairly rich biomass, loosen the soil and cover it for the winter. Until spring, the remains of oats will be washed out, get rid of harmful secretions, and the bed, enriched and loosened, will be ready.
accept any culture without digging.
An interesting incident took place. A neighbor, inclined to look at the land, once, after harvesting potatoes, sowed oats for grazing geese. And in the fall, pulling out a bunch of oats, she was amazed: “Is this my land?” So lumpy, beautiful, brownish, stuffed with earthworms, unrecognizable was the soil in a lump.
Oats are good as a "pioneer". If it is sown first on virgin lands or fallows, then the soil will be cleared of caterpillars of the May beetle, etc.

Wheat. Wheat is allelopathic, but not as prominent as rye. She can’t do anything with poppy seeds, bindweed, and bodyak that are harmful to her (rye would cope with them “on her left”). Chamomile helps wheat grow (in very small quantities). Close-growing tulips and sorghum are harmful.
Wheat straw is often used as mulch. Clean, bright, it is incomparable on strawberries.
By the way, English title strawberry is simply a "straw berry". This is how strawberries and straw “grown together”!
It is necessary, just in case, to avoid embedding straw (even former mulch) into the soil. It’s better to let it rot in a heap for a year, the harmful secretions will stop - then please. It has been established, for example, that if lettuce roots come into contact with straw that rots in the soil, the plant dries out. Such straw reduces seed germination (and yield) of corn by about half.

Rye. Here is another culture ready to "talk to the mirror". But it is not without a defect: it has a high allelopathic activity. In front of my eyes, she literally wiped off the face of the earth shoots of beets, lettuce, spinach, oat root, carrots. I used to be surprised at the cleanliness of the rye fields. And it was necessary, it turns out, to be surprised at the weed that survived in this field.
However, recently my friends struck me with an unusual (and unexpected) picture. As is customary in Ukraine, their potato plot was framed by strips of beets. After harvesting the potatoes, they sowed the plot with rye. By the end of autumn, she managed to wave almost to her knees - an emerald, and nothing more. But - almost a meter wide strips of rye near the beets looked like they were watered with roundup - undersized, withered. Mature beetroot did to rye what spring-grown rye did to young beetroot. Truly "mutual suffering"!
Rye has one valuable (if not priceless) quality: it kills the unattainable root nematode. It is enough to sow rye in the fall and plant it in the soil in the spring - the nematode will disappear.
If rye is left for grain, then it is very useful to have a small amount of chamomile in this bed - the ear will be fuller.
A small amount of rye will save strawberries from black rot, and onions from some fungal diseases. Rye flour helps to fight cabbage pests: powdering cabbage with flour dehydrates the caterpillars.
Finally, we must recall the main, integumentary function of rye. Together with and without vetch, it covers and binds the soil in the difficult autumn-winter period. If there is no need for seeds or grains of rye, in the spring you can plant it in the soil or remove it (along with the roots, just in case) into the compost heap. In the heap, this nitrogen supplement is more appropriate than in the soil (due to the “post-mortem” allelopathy).
With the help of rye, you can clear a plot littered with wheatgrass. It is enough to grow rye on it for two seasons in a row.

Chumiza. Chumiza (Italian millet) is my random find. The first time it was sown out of pure curiosity and - came to the court. It penetrates the entire arable layer with powerful root "balls". In one year, the soil becomes unrecognizable - granular, richly fertilized with roots.
An unusually productive crop. Ears can reach the size of a “rocking chair” of cattail (ocheret). Grain is an excellent feed for chickens. It is known that hens accustom chickens to different foods gradually - for example, they “pay attention” to earthworms only in the second week. So, they include chumizu in the diet of chickens from the first day.
The most valuable quality of chumiza, however, is its extraordinary ability to clear litter. In the neighborhood with her, only her closest relative, mice, survives. All other weeds are suppressed - even bindweed, which fears neither God nor the devil.
Chumiza has one defect - it is thermophilic. She has to give a bed for everything summer time. However, not in vain. Builds soil, kills weeds, provides straw for mulch and millet for chickens - quite a few...

Flowers

Only a few, the most popular flowers are considered here.

Marigold. Marigolds (tagetes) are just like that: all the fuss around them is to throw the seeds at the right time and in the right place, and then throw them into the compost heap in time or plant them in the soil. But in companies they are not so simple.
On the one hand, marigolds are an excellent means of combating root nematodes. Their roots attract the nematode, but it cannot reproduce in their environment. Dead end! Moreover, not only the roots are effective, but also the plants themselves embedded in the soil. Marigolds protect beans, cabbage, tomatoes, roses from pests. Do not like the Colorado potato beetle, aphids.
On the other hand, they are quite allelopathic, in particular, they inhibit the growth of beans and cabbage, which are protected from pests. Just like in the well-known rhyme "I will not let anyone offend my sister Lida ...".

Calendula. Calendula is a very widespread flower in our country. And he deserves it. It blooms profusely (if cut regularly) and for a long time, until severe frosts, it blooms, amusing the eyes for both us and beneficial insects.
Unfortunately, calendula is vulnerable to aphids. Well, let it serve as a trap, and the branches affected by aphids - a nitrogenous additive for the compost heap.
Calendula is easily sown, in addition to the will of the gardener. She should not be allowed this: she is a little allelopathic. Inhibits, for example, corn, watermelons, melons. In general, calendula is useful in some companies, because its pungent smell makes it difficult for pests to find their "breadwinners". It gives abundant biomass.

Space(kosmeya). You want to find something good in every plant, but you don’t even need to look in space. Just a perfect plant. Beautiful, graceful, harmless, with abundant but sparse, feathery foliage and pretty, unpretentious flowers. Cosmos is prone to self-seeding - and thank God. Let him grow where he pleases. It is attractive to bees and other beneficial insects that find nectar in flowers and shelter in branches.
Fragile branches can break under their own weight - also good: you can stick a branch into moist soil and a new plant will grow in a week.
Cosmos can be sown at any time in any suitable place - for living mulch, for shade-hungry plants, for a bouquet. This is also such a flower that the more you cut, the more it grows. It is useful to pinch a young seedling - then the cosmos branches more strongly.
It sounds paradoxical, but - clog the garden with space, and it will become more alive in every sense of this capacious word.

Linen. Linen, of course, is a technical culture, but in the garden, flax is flowers, and therefore it is described here.
Flax was mentioned when listing plants that help potatoes in the fight against the Colorado potato beetle. The beetle does not like the tannin secreted by the leaves and the smell linseed oil in mature seeds. Flax is also good in company with carrots.
However, you should not get carried away with flax. Embarrassing the Colorado potato beetle is a sacred thing, but it is not necessary to sow flax anywhere - it is allelopathic.
There is decorative linen, red-leafed. He has larger flowers, he blooms until the frost, but there is no information that characterizes his behavior in companies.

Nasturtium. Aphids love nasturtium. Direct hint: you need to sow nasturtium next to aphid-damaged crops, lure aphids into this trap, and then remove the lashes infected with aphids into a compost heap.
If you need nasturtium on its own, you can spray it with soapy water.
But other pests, such as the cabbage whitefly, do not like the smell of nasturtium. Nasturtium also protects beans, cucumbers, pumpkins. Many beneficial insects hunt for the nectar of nasturtium flowers.

Sunflower. The sunflower is described here for the same reason as flax. In the garden, it is not an industrial crop, it is grown mainly for fun.
So here's to the fun. The husk of sunflower seeds is poisonous, inhibits the growth of any plant, and it is not necessary to litter it in the garden. However, the sunflower itself is not a gift to neighbors.

Beans, pumpkins, cucumbers, corn, soybeans - these are all the crops that are good in the company of a sunflower. It is especially bad for tomatoes and potatoes. Moreover, it oppresses neighbors not only because it is allelopathic. It creates a thick shadow. In addition, it is reputed to be a glutton even among plants - strong eaters and literally eats up neighbors.
And, nevertheless, it is necessary to plant a sunflower in the garden, and not only for the sake of tradition. Attractiveness to bees, it can surpass even buckwheat. But the place for it must be chosen carefully enough, keeping in mind both the allelopathic nature and the gluttony of the sunflower. And to rarefy the shadow cast by him - break off the lower 6-7 leaves.

Zinnias. Zinnias are just as easy to grow as marigolds, unless they need to be cut more often - for the benefit of them and for the bouquet. The bush, with regular cutting, branches strongly and blooms powerfully. Cut flowers stay fresh for a long time.
Zinnias attract all sorts of beneficial insects. Their cheerful coloring is also cute for the gardener.
You can sow zinnias anywhere and for the sake of beauty, and for the "convocation" of beneficial insects, and for shading plants that need protection from the sun. They are completely harmless, not allelopathic. They bloom quite quickly, they have time to give flowers, even if they are sown after harvesting potatoes.
By the way, zinnias make an excellent cover crop. The plant is strong, does not shrink from frost, like buckwheat and even oats, stands with leaves all winter and well retains snow in winter and melt water in spring.

Chrysanthemums. Chrysanthemums require some fiddling. And they cannot be grown on vegetable beds: the rain washes away poisonous compounds from their leaves that inhibit the sprouts and growth of other plants. Moreover, they are even "disgusting to themselves": they do not grow well in the place where they grew before.

The article is taken from the site: http://derevnyaonline.ru/community/264/3052, based on the book by B.V. Bagel "Melange garden" by elsa27

Compatibility indoor plants.

As for the compatibility of different types of indoor plants, there are no standard rules - it is only advisable not to put different types of flowering flowerpots next to each other, because they can become dusty, which will lead to the appearance of artsy flowers. Although, perhaps, someone may even like it.
Although there are several known cases of the influence of one plant on another.
For example, not all plants tolerate geranium . Nearby you can put those plants that are similar in care, require the same humidity and lighting.
violets perish, being in the same room with lilies of the valley - you should remember this.
Hibiscus life-giving effect on weak plants.
rose room Compatible with almost all other indoor and fresh cut plants. The main condition is that they do not obscure it and that it itself does not interfere with the access of light to other plants.
And it is also worth considering that fruits that are in close proximity also adversely affect some plants.
Also, all plants are negatively affected by tobacco smoke. Remember this.

Plant energy

Plants with the strongest energy - common bamboo, crested chlorophytum, ivy, butterfly orchid, lemon (orange), dracaena, nephrolepis, potted rose.
Plants with heavy energy - echmea, cacti, poinsettia, neoregelia, three-lane sansevera, yucca.
Plants with soft, timid energy - Uzambara violet, minicyclamen, maidenhair, camellia, Wood's ceropegia, jasmine gardenia, common myrtle.
With the help of flowers, you can achieve and increase the humidity of the air. Flowers that need a lot of moisture usually return it through the leaves. These are violets, cyclamens, ferns.

Classification of indoor plants

First of all, in order for indoor plants to grow well, three main growth conditions must be observed - light, watering and top dressing. It is necessary to take into account what kind of illumination the windows give, and to select plants accordingly.

Indoor plants can be divided into three groups: light-loving, shade-tolerant and moderate light plants.

To the first group(light-loving) include cacti, eucalyptus, coleus.
To the second group(shade-tolerant) - ferns, coniferous aspidistra, boxwood, ivy, indoor grapes (cissus).
To the third group(plants of moderate lighting) can be attributed to most indoor plants. For example, citrus fruits, begonias, hydrangeas, primroses, tradescantia and others.

Each plant is predisposed to certain conditions. For example, some of the indoor plants prefer to be constantly in the sun, others prefer the shade. Good growth and development of the plant, and preservation in it medicinal properties depend primarily on painstaking regular care. An amateur florist must take care of his plants, in order to later benefit from them not only aesthetically, but also practical form- in order to medicinal plants kept their healing properties, and from them it was possible to prepare medicines from many diseases.
For example, pelargonium is a photophilous culture and therefore it needs a sunny location. A pot with a plant should be placed on the windows overlooking the sunny side. In winter, it is better to keep the plant on cold, bright windows at an air temperature of plus 3-10 degrees. For the same reason, the plant must be isolated from the effects of hot air from central heating batteries.
Regardless of the season, pelargoniums need regular watering. This should be done when the soil in the pots is completely dry to the touch. Water is required so much that, having passed through the entire earthen lump, it exits through the drainage hole into the pan, from where it is then removed.
Geranium (pelargonium) is a very unpretentious plant, but, during the flowering period, the plant should be regularly fed with mineral and organic fertilizers. Pelargoniums breed in March. The cuttings are cut into lengths of 7-12 cm. The lower ends of the cuttings are cleaned of leaves by 5 cm and dried for 4 hours. It is better to root the plant in moderation wet sand, although for these purposes you can also use a glass of water in which the cuttings are placed. Boiled water is used in a glass, changing it once a week. Cuttings should be kept in a warm, well-lit place, but not in the open sun. Usually after 4–5 weeks, roots 4–5 cm long are formed, at which time the cuttings can be planted in pots. The soil mixture is prepared from soddy soil, sand and peat in a ratio of 2: 1: 1, and after a few days the seedlings are exposed to a sunny place. For planting, it is recommended to take pots with a diameter of no more than 8 cm, otherwise the plants begin to form many shoots and do not bloom.
Pelargoniums that have overwintered in the house can be planted in spring with the onset of spring. open ground. It is recommended to do this procedure after the danger of frost has passed, and the air warms up to 15 degrees. 1-2 weeks after planting, the first inflorescences appear on the pelargonium. If you take good care of the plant, it will bloom until the frost. If it is not possible to transplant pelargonium into the ground, it can be placed in floor vases. With the onset of frost, the plant is again brought into the house. The plant is dug out of the ground, cut off the roots and placed in a pot. The tops of the shoots of the plant are cut off.
But caring for the viviparous Kalanchoe plant has its own distinctive features. Kalanchoe photophilous plant, it must be placed in a bright place, but in summer, in extreme heat, it must be protected from the midday sun with paper.
Small children of Kalanchoe Degremont are planted several times in pots with loose soil mixed with sand. In the spring, grown plants are transplanted into a large pot. Water as the soil dries out, making sure that the ground is not wet all the time, otherwise the succulent, fleshy plants may rot at the base. Large Kalanchoe plants are watered abundantly, especially in the heat of summer. In summer, plants need to be fed once every two weeks with a complete mineral fertilizer (1 gram per 1 liter of water).
If Kalanchoe becomes too tall and ugly, you can cut off the upper part of the shoot with 3-5 leaves and root it. It is best to do this in the spring.
Kalanchoe pinnate children do not form. It is propagated by a leaf, which must be placed in a saucer of water. After a while, small plants with roots will appear along the edges of the leaf.
To create optimal conditions for ficus, it should be remembered that this plant prefers a bright, but not sunny place. In summer, it is advisable to take the ficus to the balcony, and in winter to create a cool temperature (but not lower than 15 degrees), since the plant is at rest. From April to September, the plant needs abundant watering. During this period, there is an increased growth and development of ficuses. But you can not fill the plants, otherwise the roots may rot. Top dressing should be done twice a month. In addition, ficus leaves should be regularly wiped with a damp cloth or sponge to remove dust accumulated on their surface.
Both for medicinal and decorative purposes room conditions you can grow citrus fruits. Mandarin, orange, lemon, grapefruit grow well on northwest windows. Any dishes for plants are suitable, required condition- The pot should have a hole for water to drain. Optimum temperature for this type of plant 18-25 degrees Celsius. In summer, the length of the day is artificially extended to 14–16 hours.
If you have citrus fruits on the windowsill, then in winter you need to put a wooden stand under the pot. This will help protect the plant from hypothermia. All citrus fruits are washed in the shower twice a month. A cold shower helps to get rid of dust and pests. It is better to transplant the plant in the spring. Roots emerging from the drainage hole can serve as a signal for transplantation.

If you decide to get into floriculture, be prepared to spend some time learning how to grow and care for flowers, each of which requires a different approach. To begin with, we advise you to have only one type of flower and study it properly.
Do not rely on your memory: when the number of flowers in your collection becomes quite significant, it will be quite difficult to remember the details of caring for each of them. Try to keep a small notebook where you will indicate everything related to each plant.
Try to allocate a permanent place for the plants, where they will grow quietly and delight you with their appearance. The constant transfer of flowers from one place to another will not affect their health in the best way.

Growing a garden is not easy. Years of labor are spent, certain annual amounts are spent on the care and protection of trees and shrubs, and ... in a few years (maybe it happens) to stand in front of a “sick” garden, convulsively squeezing a sprayer rod with a pesticide solution. Is it possible to avoid mistakes? Yes, you can! To prevent them, it is necessary to hurry up with planting garden and berry crops in the country "slowly". A hastily planted garden will not bring joy later.

For the correct placement of fruit trees and shrubs in the garden, it is necessary to know the biological characteristics of each type of tree: growth, type of root system, relation to environment, pests and diseases, compatibility with neighboring plants. It is known that there are inhibitory fruit trees that release substances into the soil that oppress other crops, dangerous neighbors that transmit diseases, garden dwellers that protect and propagate pests and diseases.

Making a landing plan

Having acquired a plot, the owner feverishly proceeds to develop it and commits major mistake. Trees and shrubs planted without taking into account their characteristics, compatibility, over time will begin to oppress each other, re-infect with diseases and pests, and get sick due to lack of lighting, nutrition, and moisture. It is more practical to draw several schemes with the designation of the main landmarks:

mark the boundaries of the site,
indicate the area to be occupied by residential and commercial buildings,
for the correct illumination of future crops in the garden, it is necessary to draw the location of the site in relation to the cardinal points: south, north, west, east and note at what time of the day certain zones will be illuminated by the sun (for sun-loving and shade-tolerant crops),
indicate the type of soil - chernozem, loam, sandy loam, etc.,
be sure to indicate the depth of groundwater.

The next entry is a list of horticultural and berry crops for the garden and berry grower. This list is not very large, but the wrong arrangement of trees in the garden, undesirable neighborhood, competition - all this can eventually reduce all worries to zero.

So, 1-2-3 trees of each of the desired crops are placed in the garden, taking into account the ripening time, the biological characteristics of the variety or hybrid. Usually these are apple trees, pears, plums, cherries, sweet cherries, apricots, peaches, nuts. Experienced gardeners exotic crops are additionally planted. Of the shrubs, most often the berries are occupied by black and red currants, gooseberries, raspberries, chokeberries, sea buckthorn, shadberry, and blackberries.

Having determined the assortment of fruit and berry crops, they enter the data in the table of competitors and unwanted neighbors. The diagram clearly indicates where and which horticultural crops will be planted, taking into account compatibility, competition and protection measures.

How to avoid competition for survival?

It is more practical to lay a garden from the south or southeast side, distributing rows of trees from north to south. Fruit crops will be located in a warmer microclimate and will be exposed to the sun for most of the day, which will reduce competition for lighting and its intensity.

Apple and pear trees can be planted on the north side. To reduce shading, the outer rows of the garden are occupied with undersized crops, and taller species are placed in subsequent rows. Fruit and ornamental shrubs - mountain ash, viburnum, hawthorn, wild rose are best placed along the fence outside the garden plot, observing spatial isolation. They actively suppress the growth of fruit crops.

It is not advisable to plant a mixed garden in one dedicated area, it is better to group fruit trees by species and level of compatibility, linking garden curtains with the landscape of the entire area. Separate garden curtains can consist of several types of fruit crops with good compatibility and simultaneous ripening of the crop. It is necessary for the best cross pollination, greater fruit set.

But even the same cultures become antagonists with dense plantings. Between them begins the struggle for space, food and lighting. A tree that is weak in development is more oppressed, grows more slowly and dies, self-thinning occurs. In order to avoid such a phenomenon, it is necessary to comply with the requirements of culture to the environment.

Leave the distance between competing fruit crops at least 5-7 m. In a row between crops with good alignment, an average distance of 3 meters is recommended. However, it is more correct to plant plants, taking into account the diameter of the crown and the root system of each breed of fruit crop.

For example, in an apricot, the crown of an adult tree is 3.0-3.6 m, and the diameter of the root system exceeds it by 1.5-2.0 times. In the struggle for lighting and water, apricot root secretions will inhibit peach, cherry, apple, pear, and other small trees and shrubs.

Columnar crops can be planted in a row every 2.0-2.5 m, and between rows leave 2.5-3.0 m.

If the relief of the site has hills and slopes, then on the southern and southwestern slopes it is better to lay the garden from the middle to the foot of the slope. On the northern slope - from the upper edge to the middle, since at the foot the gardens die from frost and accumulation of cold air.

If groundwater lies close to the soil surface, it is better to plant fruit crops on dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstocks, use columnar apple trees, plums, and pears in plantings. Fruit trees with a seed (tall) rootstock are separated and planted on artificial hills or in the highest areas with a monoculture (2-3 apricots) or a separate tree (walnut).

Incompatibility or antagonism of horticultural crops can be associated with various reasons. With the same height and diameter of the crown, competition can go for lighting and air space, the consumption of nutrients from one soil layer. These reasons underlie the competition between peach and apricot, peach and cherry, pear, apple, etc.

Compatibility problems in garden plantings can be solved through care. Having created the required conditions, the implementation of all agrotechnical measures, taking into account the biological characteristics of growth, development of the crop, in different phases of the growing season, it is possible to mitigate or even remove the aggressive manifestations of antagonism between plants. In mixed plantings, light-loving and shade-tolerant crops are combined, with a deep and superficial root system, different periods of intensive absorption of nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, trace elements, etc.).

If a country cottage area located close to the forest, it is necessary to increase the right-of-way to 7-10 m. Oppressed garden plantings ash, maple, oak, birch. With an overgrown root system, they intercept moisture from "spoiled" cultivated plants, spreading crowns trap precipitation and create an unwanted shadow.

Among ornamental plants groups of single planting crops are distinguished. They quickly grow, capture new areas and suppress the growth of other plants. From home ornamental shrubs These include sea buckthorn, barberry, viburnum, rose, lilac, wild rose, mock orange. To remove their aggressive antagonistic effect, these plants are planted separately and away from fruit tree and shrub crops (Table 1).

Compatibility of fruit and berry crops

Name of culture	good compatibility	Competitors	Causes and protection measures
Apricot		Peach, sweet cherry, cherry, pear, apple tree, walnut.	lighting competitor, common diseases. Walnut is a natural herbicide in relation to competitors. Distance 4-7 m from a competitor.
Pear	Hawthorn, pine, larch, tomatoes, calendula, dill.	Cherry, sweet cherry, peach, mountain ash, walnut.	Sick constantly. the same diseases. Peach and pear oppress each other. A common pest is rowan moth. Drug treatments.
Peach		Cherry, sweet cherry, pear, apple tree, apricot.	They oppress each other. The peach dies completely after 4-5 years. The optimal distance between competitors is 6-7 m.
Apple tree	Pine, larch, tomatoes, calendula, dill.	Apricot, cherry, sweet cherry, poplar, peach, mountain ash.	The extreme degree of competition for light, water. It suffers from poplar due to the release of ethereal vapors. A common pest is rowan moth.
Plum		Currant red and black, birch.	They oppress each other.
Rowan red		Cherry.	Red rowan branches are exposed from the side of the cherry.
Red currants	Onion.	Plum, cherry, cherry, pine, birch, raspberry, gooseberry.	They oppress each other. Onions protect against kidney mites. Drug processing.
Black currant	Honeysuckle.	red currant, raspberry, gooseberry.	They oppress each other. A common pest is the gooseberry moth. Drug processing.
Gooseberry		Currant red and black, raspberry.	A common pest is the gooseberry moth. Drug processing.
Cherry		All fruit, red and black currants.	All fruit crops that grow under the crown are oppressed by cherries and die.
walnut	Medicinal herbs. According to some reports - dogwood, sea buckthorn,	All fruit, especially the apple tree.	The leaves contain juglone (plant herbicide). Washing out of the leaves into the soil, it destroys any vegetation under the crown, especially the apple tree.
Raspberry		Strawberry.	A common pest is the raspberry-strawberry weevil. Drug processing.
Irga		All kinds of nuts, lilac, viburnum, barberry, mock orange.	Compliance with spatial isolation.
Sea buckthorn	Oregano, chamomile.	Raspberries, black currants, strawberries, all nightshade crops.	Aggressive antagonist. Clogs the growth of neighbors with growth. It is better to plant in monoplants.
Barberry
Fir, viburnum, rose, lilac, wild rose, mock orange			Inhibits the growth of other crops. It is better to plant in monoplants.

Diseases are the cause of incompatibility of cultures

Another reason for the incompatibility of horticultural crops are infectious diseases. They develop and infect several fruit and berry crops at once in the presence of:

pathogen,
susceptibility of a variety of a particular fruit crop,
favorable conditions for development and distribution.

There will be no mass destruction of fruit and berry crops if the causative agent of the disease is destroyed at the beginning of development and reproduction or is completely absent. Fruit and berry crops are affected by fungi, bacteria, viruses. Sometimes the conditions for infection of horticultural crops are created by insects (ants). In these cases, the struggle is carried out in two directions: the pest and the disease are destroyed.

In some infectious diseases, the entire development cycle of the pathogen takes place on one plant (scab, fruit rot, coccomycosis, moniliosis, powdery mildew, bacterial spotting, different kinds rot, common cancer), but affects many species. If 1-2 species affected by the disease die, the rest of the fruit trees continue their normal development. To protect plants from single-farm diseases, you can use the same chemical preparations, but better (for a private garden) - biological ones.

Among fungal diseases there is a group of pathogens of infectious diseases with a change of hosts during the development cycle. The development cycle of pathogens consists of several stages. Each of them needs a different owner. Such fungi are called heterogeneous and in the absence of one of the hosts, the fungus stops its development. Miscellaneous fungi affect only tree species and are the main reason for the incompatibility of fruit, ornamental and forest crops in joint plantings. Rust fungi affect pears, apple trees, hawthorn, plum, mountain ash and other crops. Juniper is the intermediate host. Fungal spores that have overwintered on juniper in the spring infect fruit crops. To protect horticultural crops from such fungal diseases, spatial isolation is necessary. It is possible to carry out simultaneous treatment of both cultures or to interrupt the development cycle of the pathogen by removing one of them. More details on diseases as a source of crop incompatibility can be found in the table.

Diseases of horticultural and berry crops

culture	Name of the disease	dangerous neighborhood
pome fruits
Apple tree and pear	Scab	Planting resistant varieties. Removal of affected shoots and branches. Collection of affected leaves, carrion, mummified fruits, pest control, treatment of plants and soil with chemical and biological fungicides.
	Moniliosis (fruit rot)	Monoecious rust fungi re-infect the host and other plants of the same species.
	powdery mildew	A group of heterodomous rust fungi usually develops on two different plants: for apple trees - common juniper, for pears - Cossack juniper.
	White leaf spot	It is necessary to destroy one of the hosts: apple, pear or juniper.
	rust fungus	Destruction of diseased parts of plants, spraying with fungicidal preparations during the growing season.
Stone fruits
All stone fruits of fruit crops	Clasterosporiasis or perforated spotting	It affects all organs. Spraying with chemicals before bud break. Repeated - after flowering. Treatment during the growing season with biological products is recommended.
Plum	Red spot plums	The period from infection to mass flowering is the most dangerous. Cleaning up leaf litter. Spraying during the growing season.
Plum	rust fungus	Monoecious rust fungi re-infect the host and other plants of the same species. A group of heterodomous rust fungi usually develops on two different plants: for plums, anemone weed. It is necessary to destroy one of the hosts: anemones. Destruction of diseased parts of plants, spraying with fungicidal preparations during the growing season.
Cherry and sweet cherry.	coccomycosis	Destruction of plant residues, cultivation of resistant varieties, application of chemical and biological preparations
Peach	leaf curl	Fruits with yellow flesh are not infected. Spraying before bud break and the entire growing season.
All types of fruit
Pome and stone fruits	milky shine	Cutting and burning affected branches.
Pome and stone fruits	root cancer	Disinfection of the soil of nurseries and garden laying. Soil treatment after planting seedlings. Timely watering.
Diseases of the berries
gooseberry, currant	powdery mildew	Resistant varieties, sparse plantings, digging and disinfection of the soil, destruction of diseased shoots, leaf litter. Treatment of the above-ground mass with fungicidal preparations.
	Anthracnose
	Columnar and goblet rust	Winters on the second owner of pine, cedar, sedge. Spatial isolation of trees is necessary. Destruction of sedge.
strawberries	White leaf spot	Planting healthy seedlings, timely top dressing. Sparse planting, destruction of plant residues. Treatment of plants with biofungicides.
	Brown spotting of strawberry leaves
	Gray rot strawberries
Black currant	Doubleness (reversion) of blackcurrant.	It is carried by bud mites and herbivorous bugs. The affected bushes are uprooted. It is necessary to destroy the kidney tick.
Black currant	rust mushrooms	Intermediate host - sedge, Cedar pine It is necessary to destroy the weed, observe spatial isolation. Spray plants and soil during the growing season.
Raspberry	rust mushrooms	Intermediate host - sedge, Weymouth pine. It is necessary to destroy the weed, observe spatial isolation. Spray plants and soil during the growing season.