A modest plot of land in the Moscow region passed into my possession just a few years ago. The first problem that had to be solved before laying the beds was the normalization of the soil reaction. The abundance of horse sorrel, creeping ranunculus, horsetail, rushes signaled that the soil was acidic and liming was necessary. What I do: a bed for potatoes is lime a year before planting, so as not to provoke the development of scab on tubers. I apply lime fertilizers for cucumber, tomato, carrots and beets during autumn digging, and for white cabbage and onions - immediately before planting seedlings and sevka. I use dolomite flour - it contains not only calcium, but also magnesium.

According to the mechanical composition, the soil on the site is heavy loam, that is, it has a high content of clay particles (a ball of moist soil easily rolls into a cord and bends into a ring with small cracks). Because of this, the earth warms up for a long time in the spring, water is poorly absorbed into it, and the earth dries out for a long time, but in a drought it becomes like a stone. To change the structure of the soil for the better, when preparing the ridges, I always add organic fertilizers to the soil. Most positively, this affected the yield of onions, garlic, carrots, cucumbers, and late-ripening cabbage: these crops respond very well to organic matter. Moreover, under cucumbers in the open ground, slightly decomposed manure acted most effectively - the plants spread along the ground and the leaves absorb carbon dioxide released during the decomposition of organic matter. And under root crops, only rotted manure or compost should be applied (fresh ones will cause branching of root crops and reduce their keeping quality during storage).

To make white cabbage work well on heavy soil, I use the following combination of fertilizers. I apply manure or compost along with double superphosphate and potassium fertilizer in the fall for digging (it takes time for the nutrients from these fertilizers to pass into a form digestible for plants). In the spring, I plant nitrogen fertilizers (ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate) into the soil to a depth of 10-15 cm, which are necessary for initial growth. And so that they act faster, during the planting of seedlings, I definitely water the planting holes abundantly. I feed with water-soluble complex fertilizers 2 weeks after planting the seedlings and again after 3 weeks.

After the fertility increases, I will also add bacterial fertilizers.

In various climatic zones, gardeners are wondering how to improve and restore the soil on suburban area without the risk of destroying the fertile layer. Early diagnosis is the key to success.

The soil loses its properties gradually. At first, the harvested crop decreases, and then - after each watering, the soil is covered with a crust. A gardener who ignores the symptoms described runs the risk of destroying the soil. After 1-2 years, the soil will become structureless. Prompt measures will help to minimize the likelihood of such a development of events.

Determining the cause of the problem

The first stage of soil destruction is accompanied by a subtle smell of rot. Over time, mold will add to it. The first and most obvious cause of the problem is the actions and inactions of the gardener:

• excessive use of chemicals;
• too frequent digging;
• too frequent use of fertilizers;
• wrong choice of humus and so on.

In a separate category, there are reasons that are due to the wrong choice of agricultural practices. Growers use the technologies imposed on them. Botanists recommend first checking whether one or another option is compatible with a particular type of soil.

Stage II of soil destruction is the result of direct human errors. The gardener, who digs up the earth on the site, turns over small clods of earth. From the outside, it seems that there is nothing to worry about.

In fact, a person destroys beneficial bacteria. After each "coup", they sink deeper underground. The less oxygen the bacteria get, the faster they die. Do not be surprised then that the fertile layer has become smaller. The second problem, which is provoked by human actions, is associated with the destruction of earthworms. The more often the gardener digs up the site, the more likely it is to cut all the earthworms. The smaller they are, the worse the soil feels.

On a note!

Manure should be used in exceptional cases. He is a carrier of infection, not nutrients. The process of rotting in a heap is the result of human actions. There is nothing like it in nature. Even with a small amount of manure introduced into the soil, its condition worsens.

Manure heaps should be less

Nature is arranged in such a way that there is nothing superfluous in it. As soon as the decay of the manure heap is completed, the artificial toxins contained in it “weather out”. After some time, worms will come into the soil, which is saturated with manure. Beneficial bacteria are localized in their body. As soon as the bacteria react with the manure, the result will not be long in coming. The biologically active "mess" that will turn out in the end cannot be classified as "safe". Botanists call the resulting soil humified soil. It cannot be used for agricultural purposes.

The rate of "transformation" of the soil after such a reaction cannot be called stable. Much depends on the amount of incoming oxygen. As a rule, negative changes are localized in the surface layer. The more dangerous substances in it, the faster it will acquire a dark shade. At the gardener's site, the soil is rich in putrefactive microbes. For the time being, they are in a "sleeping" state. As soon as the situation becomes favorable, they will “pass” into the active phase. A gardener who abuses manure risks his own health. Pathogenic flora will penetrate into the future crop.

Autumn is the time when gardeners are busy restoring the fertility of the land. Everyone has their own approach, but the goal is the same: everyone…

In nature, everything is arranged differently

Under natural conditions, the process of enzymatic decomposition of organic substances occurs differently. The catalyst is the remains of leaves and grass. They are compared to natural mulch. As a result, dangerous decay does not occur. To minimize the risk to your own health and the "health" of the soil, the following recommendations will help:

• refuse to use manure;
• if this does not work out, then you need to take precautions;
• manure is laid out in a thin layer on the site so as not to hurt root system green spaces;
• to a lesser extent, raspberries and currants are susceptible to the negative aspects of manure;
• within a few days, the decomposed manure undergoes enzymatic decomposition - a process that will be catalyzed by the microflora contained in the soil;
• if the gardener refrains from applying chemicals, then he will have a safe and high-quality humic fertilizer on the site.

Organic mulch is a safe alternative to manure. The choice here is not limited. The only caveat is to use "thick" layers. The recommended thickness is from 4-5 cm and more. As a result, the gardener will receive a good harvest without the risk of developing pathogenic flora.

On a note!

It is forbidden to store manure in a large pile. In any weather, it will become a huge biohazard bomb.

Choosing the right mulch

The focus is on materials of organic origin. The following options are popular:

• husk;
• husk;
• chaff;
• leaves;
• grass.

The easiest way to find sawdust, which are inexpensive. Skeptics will say that most of the options listed above will increase soil acidity. In fact, it all depends on the method of application. Mulch is laid on the surface of the soil, not buried. The second nuance is that their mushrooms start the oxidation process. They are found in the soil. We can say that oxidation is a natural process.

Immediately after making sawdust or other mulch, worms and microbes will start the “meal”. Biologists have determined that the listed gardening assistants do not care what to “eat”. The only "but" - the end product of the activity of microbes and worms will be dangerous or safe substances. The result depends on the choice of the gardener. Botanists recommend making a choice in favor of processes that occur in natural conditions.

To get strong tomato bushes and a rich harvest, it is advised to use compost. It is a natural fertilizer...

After analyzing the main causes that undermine the health of the soil, you can move on to finding ways to solve the problem:

• it is desirable to keep the garden under "tinning" - it is enough to mow everything that grows there once every six months to get high-quality soil;
• weeds are removed no more than 1 time every 8 months;
• representatives of cereal crops and clover are mowed without regard to the timing;
• the grass that has been mowed is left on the site - it will serve as a nutritious diet for beneficial bacteria and worms;
• up to 4 small pieces of land are left on the site, on which plants useful for the gardener are located - over time, they will spread the seeds in the surrounding area, which will improve the condition of the soil;
• beds of some crops are limited with boards or slate from beds with other crops - a simple piece of advice minimizes the likelihood of stepping on one part of the plantings while processing another.

On a note!

The space between the rows is sprinkled with a 5-centimeter layer of sand or sawdust - it will become easier to move around the garden.

Proper soil care

Gardeners who have excessive loamy soil, make biocompost. The recommended dosage is 1 kg for every 1m2. Prepare it as follows:

• choose a plot of the garden, which is located in the shade;
• here they form a biofactory;
• mix any organic matter with loamy soil in a ratio of 2 to 1;
• 500 ml of water are added to the mixture;
• make up to 30 worms - choose manure and rain;
• the pile is covered with thick oilcloth.

The gardener's task is to keep the biological factory active. It's about about adding earth and organic matter. It is brought only from the side, and not from above. As a result, worms and beneficial bacteria will be comfortable throughout the year.

When the vegetables have grown

Active vegetation often leads to accelerated drying of the soil. A few things will help slow down the process. practical advice:

• a thick layer of sawdust is poured between the rows - a simple manipulation that eliminates the need for frequent watering;
• several dozen earthworms and meadow soil are collected in the forest;
• bring them to the site and lay them out evenly on the site where there is a layer of mulch;
• after a few hours, natural gardening helpers will populate the site.

Further work will be taken over by beneficial bacteria and worms. The task of the gardener is not to interfere with them. After 1-2 months, there will be no traces of pathogenic microorganisms on the site. The nature of the way to solve many problems on your own. Healthy soil microflora will be the key to success.

Gardeners who thoughtlessly use agricultural machinery risk destroying the fertile layer. Over-fertilization and frequent digging, improper watering, the use of pesticides are a small part of the factors that lead to sad consequences. Attention to detail will help prevent the development of irreversible changes. As soon as the gardener smells rot or sees traces of mold, action must be taken immediately.

Let's start with the substances used. Humus is a source of problems for green spaces and living beings. It contains an excessive number of pathogens of deadly ailments. The second rule is that they rely on beneficial bacteria and worms. Natural gardening helpers solve many problems faster, without risk to humans. When choosing worms, preference is given to local populations. Imported worms are less effective in restoring soil health. The third rule concerns the use of manure, which is alien to nature. Instead of the mentioned source of "infection", a safe fermentation process is preferred.

How to treat the soil, the earth? Diseases, diseases, soil treatment. Fertility restoration. Reasons for fertility decline

Tips for preparing the soil, restoring its nutritional properties. How to restore decreased fertility? What to do if the earth is sick, the plants wither? Practical experience. (10+)

How to cure the soil? Soil diseases. Fertility restoration

The material is an explanation and addition to the article:
Do-it-yourself fertile agro soil.
Need plant soil? Do it yourself. Practical experience of cultivating and cultivating agro-soil plot for garden beds, household farming, growing plants.

It is not uncommon for crop yields to drop sharply on a piece of land. In this case, it is customary to say that the earth is sick. Let's try to figure out what lies under this concept, and what can be done with it.

Soil diseases

Infection with bacteria and fungi. As plants grow, they can get sick. After harvesting, bacteria and fungi remain in the soil. Some of them die in the cold, but some can remain in the soil for many years and infect new plantings. A sign is the appearance in young plants of diseases that were in plants of the previous year (spots on the leaves, decay, etc.)

exhaustion. As the selection of nutrients by plants, the land is depleted, loses fertility. This disease is characterized by a general stunted seedlings for no apparent reason (there are no pests, diseases, and the plant is still weak and stunted)

Structure breaking. The earth can become hard, heavy, form layers, crack, erode. This defect is very easy to diagnose. The soil looks rough, cracked, crusted and cracked, and hard lumps to the touch. Such soil is difficult to dig. It does not retain moisture after watering, it dries quickly.

weeds. Weeds can take root in the garden. A small number of weeds are always present, but sometimes there are a lot of weeds, they clog all the crops. Then we say that the earth is overgrown.

Soil fertility restoration

Eco-friendly slow way

The resulting mixture rots. At the same time, such aggressive waste products of decay bacteria are released, then other bacteria, fungi, small pests and weed seeds do not have a chance. People say they burn. Additionally, the earth is enriched with nutrients.

The described method has only one drawback. It is possible to plant cultivated plants only after complete decay (burnout) of the mixture. And the mixture very often does not have time to burn out in one winter. Nothing can be planted in under-rotted soil, everything will die. There is no reliable way to determine that a reaction is complete. Soil temperature can be measured as a feature. For measurement, we will select a control plot of soil meter by meter, for the winter we will cover it in the same way as the cultivated soil. In the spring, we measure the soil temperature with a thermometer in the center of our square and in the cultivated area. Compare. If the temperature in the center of the control square differs from the temperature of our mixture by less than a degree, then most likely the reaction is over. But there are no guarantees. The reaction may simply not have started to the right extent yet. Success can only be guaranteed if you miss the season. That is, leave the soil under a layer of insulation to rest for one summer, and plant it the next spring.

Eco-friendly fast way

There is a much faster way to treat the soil from harmful microflora (bacteria, fungi). However, it requires the use of toxic chemicals. Its essence is that the soil is treated with a chemical fungicide, for example, foundationol. Processing is carried out twice with an interval of 7 - 8 days. After the second treatment, you should wait 2.5 weeks for the foundation to decompose. Next, a biological fungicide is introduced (beneficial microorganisms that will live on our site). I bring Fitosporin. This method can be applied even if the site is occupied, if trees, bushes and other perennials already grow on it. The described method will not harm the plants. .

Other diseases

Violation of the soil structure is treated by applying compost, digging and growing special plants. I grow ground pear. It grows on any soil. In autumn, a bed with an earthen pear must be dug up along with the roots of this plant. They will be good fertilizer.

There will be a separate article regarding the fight against large pests (moles, bears, etc.). Subscribe to the news to stay informed.

A good way to radically control weeds is to treat the beds with boiling water before planting cultivated plants. Just keep in mind that this can only be done with small plots of land. This way you will boil the worms. If this happens in a small area, then there is nothing to worry about. Boiled meat will become fertilizer, and new worms will come from the neighboring land. But if a significant area is treated in this way, then the ecological balance can be greatly disturbed. In any case, this method is much safer than herbicides. By the way, herbicides also kill worms.

Boiling water treatment great way soil preparation for seedlings and indoor plants. If you take land from your garden for these purposes, and do not buy it, then hot water will get rid of weeds, pests and harmful bacteria.

Unfortunately, errors occur periodically in articles, they are corrected, articles are supplemented, developed, new ones are being prepared.

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The composition of the soil affects the condition of plants and the quality of the crop. Every year, specialists carry out a set of procedures for its disinfection from pathogens of fungal and infectious diseases, pests and weeds. At home, they are also necessary, since the soil accumulates a large amount over time. harmful substances. You can restore the balance of soil microflora and protect the crop with the help of special preparations that are sold in stores.

Disinfection and processing

Before planting any plants, it is necessary to prepare the soil. In the absence of competent care, pathogenic microflora begins to multiply in it. It can be mycelium of fungi, and nematodes, and mold microorganisms. Under their influence, plants do not take root well, and an abundance of pests can lead to a complete loss of the crop.

Timely soil treatment with disinfectants has a positive effect:

• crops grow healthy, absorb nutrients from the soil well;
• the growth of weeds that interfere with the growth of vegetables and fruits is suppressed;
• there is a reliable protection against infection;
• the need for additional treatment of plants from pests is reduced.

Work time

It is necessary to take care of the soil in which fruit and ornamental crops grow. all year round. It is most convenient to carry out the procedures in those periods when there are no plants in the soil. This will allow you to use any preparations and not worry about their effect on plantings and beneficial microflora.

spring

Before planting seedlings, it is necessary to carry out the first soil treatment. This applies to the soil both in the greenhouse and in open beds. The optimal time for the procedure is after the snow has completely disappeared from the site. In the greenhouse, it is also recommended to adhere to these terms. If crops are planted for the winter, the tillage time is calculated based on the timing of planting seedlings.

autumn

After harvesting, it is necessary to prepare the soil for winter. These measures are aimed at cleaning the soil from pests, as well as from all substances that can provoke an abundant growth of microorganisms. Full complex autumn processing soil will include:

• removal of all annual plants that in the future may create a favorable environment for the growth of fungi and infection (leaf tops, carrots, fallen leaves);
• mechanical cleaning of premises and plantings from dirt, preferably with bleach - especially necessary in greenhouses;
• remove unnecessary items and do not use the greenhouse as a warehouse;
• replace the soil or neutralize it with chemicals.

Popular drugs

On sale you can find a large number of drugs that fight unwanted microorganisms and weeds. They have different composition and can be toxic to plants and humans. Before using them, you should read the instructions and, if necessary, observe safety measures.

Bleaching powder

One of the first means for disinfection, including it can be used to disinfect the soil. 200 g of dry matter must be dug up with the top layer of soil and left for the winter.

The substance is only suitable for autumn processing due to its high toxicity to plants. When working with it, you should follow the safety rules - protect the skin, mucous membranes and respiratory organs from getting the drug.

Advice! In spite of high efficiency, bleach is rarely used. Many gardeners opt for less toxic drugs that have no less spectrum of action.

Copper preparations (Bordeaux mixture, copper sulphate)

Copper sulfate is not only a well-known fungicide, but also a source of copper for plants. The substance is diluted with water in the proportion of 1 spoon of the substance per 10 liters of liquid. This solution is watered the soil both in spring and autumn.

In addition, it can be used when signs of fungal or infectious diseases are detected as crops grow. The introduction of the drug into the soil will not affect their condition - on the contrary, many of them respond to fertilizer with rapid growth and abundant flowering.

Fitosporin

An environmentally friendly preparation based on the bacterium Bscillus Subtilis. It is a beneficial soil microorganism that improves soil composition and fights pests. It is effective against most fungal and infectious microbes, as well as against nematodes.

The tool can be used not only on schedule, but also during the growth of crops in the soil. The only drawback of the drug is that the bacterium remains viable for a month. It is recommended to apply it more than twice a year, especially when signs of plant infection appear.

How and with what to disinfect the soil?

There are several ways to disinfect the soil. Some of them are applicable only during periods without crops in the soil due to their high toxicity, others can be used all year round. Drugs may have a wide spectrum of action or be designed for specific diseases.

All methods of soil disinfection can be divided into several categories:

• chemical - the use of artificially synthesized substances that destroy pathogenic microorganisms;
• thermal (calcination, pouring boiling water or freezing) - based on the low resistance of bacteria to various temperatures;
• phytocleaning - planting useful plants, which act as fungicides;
• environmental - the use of organic fertilizers in in large numbers(manure, compost) in the absence of plants, due to which beneficial soil microorganisms are formed.

Soil disinfection methods will differ. Some of them have a wide spectrum of action and can be used, including for prevention purposes. The rest affect only the causative agents of certain diseases.

From weeds

Weeding by hand or with tools is the easiest and most affordable way get rid of weeds. However, the process will take a lot of time and effort. There are several more simple ways how to deal with weeds:

• use herbicides at the stage of weed germination (Lazurit, Arsenal, Tornado);
• folk remedies - vinegar, table salt, citric acid;
• a dark film with which weeds are covered so that they cannot grow and develop.

in the greenhouse

In the greenhouse, conditions are created for the full development of not only plants, but also pathogenic microflora. It can penetrate not only with soil, but also with household items and tools. The danger is also the remains of plants from which they have already harvested.

In greenhouses, it is recommended to change the soil frequently, not only because of its rapid depletion, but also because of the presence of pests in it. An alternative advice is to carry out a general cleaning of the greenhouse twice a year, use means for disinfecting the soil and process seedlings.

For seedlings

Seedlings are especially sensitive to the effects of pathogenic microflora. The presence of weeds in the soil reduces the chances of normal germination. One way to protect plants is to pre-treat the soil with a chemical disinfectant.

If seedlings are planted in a small amount of soil, it can be processed by other methods:

• freezing at a negative temperature for several days;
• calcination in the oven;
• steaming in a water bath.

Advice! On sale there are specially prepared mixtures for seedlings. However, experienced gardeners It is recommended to subject them to disinfection according to the general method.

From diseases and pests

Fruit and garden plants, as well as decorative flowers, can be exposed to pathogens of various plant diseases. Treatment may fail and large crops may be lost. The only way to be completely sure that the plants are safe is to periodically treat the soil in which they grow.

from fungal diseases

The fungus in the soil develops in conditions of high humidity and insufficient oxygen supply. The first recommendation on how to prevent its occurrence is to dig up the soil twice a year. You can also use drugs that belong to different groups:

• means for processing seeds;
• biological preparations for soil and seedlings (Baikal);
• chemicals (copper-based products).

In a small area, it is worth using biological protection equipment. They stimulate the growth of beneficial soil microflora, which will inhibit the development of the fungus. However, on an industrial scale, chemically synthesized drugs will be more effective and cost-effective.

From scab

This is a fungal disease of apple or potato. It is capable of completely destroying the crop, if it is not noticed in time and its development is not stopped. There are several recipes for soil treatment from scab:

• digging the earth with pine needles, a source of natural fungicides;
• sulfur in the amount of 2.5-3.5 kg per 1 m of soil;
• aqueous solutions of sulfuric or orthophosphoric acids.

If the potato is severely damaged by scab, soil gypsum is applied. 15-20 kg of gypsum is added per 100 m of surface and dug up with soil after the autumn harvest.

From phytophthora

Late blight is another fungal disease. It is manifested by the appearance of black dots on the leaves, which gradually increase and completely destroy the plant. There are several ways to prevent this disease, which will be most effective even before planting seedlings:

• treatment with a solution of manganese or the addition of wood ash;
• milling - mixing the top layer of soil with the help of special tools, which allows you to increase the amount of oxygen in the soil;
• use of broad spectrum fungicides.

If the soil is cultivated, the risk of late blight is significantly reduced. Like other types of fungal infection, phytophthora grows and multiplies in conditions of high humidity and reduced oxygen content.

From the wireworm

The wireworm is a beetle larva that feeds on potatoes. This pest does no less harm to the crop than the Colorado potato beetle, and it is difficult to eliminate it mechanically. Before planting this crop, it is recommended to treat the soil with one of the following solutions:

• potassium permanganate at the rate of 5 g per 10 liters of water;
• fertilizers that contain nitrogen (ammonium nitrate);
• wood ash in dry form or in combination with water for irrigation;
• purchased mixtures.

The most dangerous wireworm for potatoes, which grows on the same beds for the second year in a row. For the purposes of prevention, it is recommended to change crops, and if this is not possible, to make timely means to disinfect the soil.

If mistakes were made when growing garden crops or adverse weather conditions developed, then pathogenic microorganisms could accumulate in the soil. And they are localized, as a rule, in the region of plant roots. Gardeners, for obvious reasons, are beginning to fear the emergence of diseases in their crops. How to disinfect the soil on the site and reduce the risk of plant disease will be discussed in this article. Soil disinfection will allow, if not completely destroy, then significantly reduce the number of soil pathogens.

What pathogens are found in the soil

Causative agents of fungal infections and viral diseases accumulate in the soil in the garden. Most often pathogens of dangerous fungal diseases are settled on the site:

• Late blight is a disease caused by mycelial lower fungi, oomycetes. It affects potatoes, tomatoes, strawberries, peppers. If measures are not taken in a timely manner, it can completely deprive the crop in a short time.
• Dry rot (furadiosis) is a dangerous, rapidly spreading potato disease. If a seemingly healthy-looking, but fungus-infected potato is placed in storage, then by the middle of winter the disease can destroy the lion's share of the tubers.
• Rhizoctonia, or black scab of potatoes, pathogens are actinomycete fungi. The disease affects all parts of the plant and tubers, disfiguring them with black ulcers, worsening the taste.
• Alternariosis - affects potatoes and nightshade crops. Pathogens are imperfect fungi that usually affect stems and leaves, causing growth retardation and a significant decrease in yield.
• Common scab is one of the most common potato diseases. More common on rich humus calcareous soils. Attacks tubers. Due to the disease, the marketable appearance and taste of tubers deteriorate, as a rule, starch losses can reach 30%.

Soil disinfection methods

As you know, any disease is easier to prevent than to cure. Therefore, the issue of timely disinfection of the soil is acute. As already mentioned, soil disinfection open ground does not guarantee 100% pathogen eradication. But it will significantly reduce their concentration and, by weakening the rest, reduce their virulence.

According to the means and methods used, disinfection is divided into several types.

Chemical methods of soil disinfection

Preparations containing sulfur and copper do a good job with pathogenic fungi. But it should be remembered that copper accumulates in the soil.

Autumn soil disinfection

If soil disinfection is carried out in the fall, after the beds are liberated, then sulfuric acid salts are used. This is copper and iron sulphate or Bordeaux liquid.

After removing plant residues, the beds are treated with a 3% solution of copper or iron sulfate or Bordeaux mixture. Processing is carried out with a sprayer. The flow rate of the working fluid is 10 liters per 100 sq.m. After making the soil, it is good to loosen the soil with a rake, mixing the top layer.

Soil disinfection in spring

If in the fall, for some reason, soil disinfection was not carried out, then in the spring copper preparations are used. To do this, prepare a two percent solution of oxychoma or a 4 percent solution of copper oxychloride (HOM). Dry soil is treated with a sprayer, then the top layer is mixed with a rake. The consumption rate is 15 liters of working solution per hundred square meters.

In the future, preventive treatment of plants with HOM is carried out. Its advantages are low toxicity, easy to use: just dilute with water according to the instructions. Effective in the fight against many fungi that affect both vegetable and fruit crops and grapes.

Soil disinfection by biological methods

If you are a supporter of natural (live) farming and the use chemicals If you do not accept, then biological methods can be used. They are also recommended for those gardeners whose plots are not huge.

AT recent times Biofungicides are increasingly being used to control pathogens. Trade offers a wide range of preparations containing soil pathogen antagonist fungi. These are preparations of the Baikal series, as well as Trichodermin, which inhibits the development of more than sixty different pathogenic organisms. Biofungicide "Alirin-B" suppresses fungal diseases in the soil. And, of course, known to everyone and loved by many farmers, "Fitosporin".

The preparations are applied to the top layer of the soil, to a depth of no more than 10-15 cm, in autumn, in September-October, after liberation from planting. But no later than two weeks before the onset of cold weather. Biofungicides must be applied to the top layer of soil in the spring, but after stable positive temperatures have been established.

Vegetating plants are also treated with biological preparations, leaving no chance for infections to "settle". Because the microorganisms and fungi contained in the preparations will displace pathogens from the soil. The systematic use of biofungicides will cleanse the soil of infections and protect crops from the manifestation of diseases.

Soil disinfection with biological products is safe for humans and animals. And besides, it helps to increase the activity of intrasoil microorganisms.

Agrotechnics for soil protection

The agrotechnical methods of maintaining soil health include, first of all, the observance of crop rotation. Cultures should not return to their original place of growth earlier than after three years. During this time, pathogenic fungi, if not all die, then significantly weaken.

For the development of a fungal disease, ideal conditions are dense plantings and high humidity. Therefore, we make the beds narrow, we observe the necessary arrangement of plants so that the plantings are well ventilated.

When choosing varieties and hybrids of vegetables, you should choose resistant to fungal diseases. How these seeds are labeled on the labels, we told in the article.

When feeding plants, you should not get carried away with nitrogen, because plants “overfed” with nitrogen become more vulnerable to fungi.

Tops of cucumbers, tomatoes, eggplant and potatoes are best burned. You should not lay them in a compost heap, even if outwardly there were no signs of disease on the plants.

What method to use for disinfection and disinfection of the soil on the site, each gardener is free to choose for himself. But it should be remembered that chemical methods should be used in extreme cases, with high degree infection. If the use of biological products and the observance of agricultural technology are used in combination, this will preserve the health of the soil and plants, and there will be no need to use chemistry.

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