home ceilings

Attach the floorboard to the joists. Laying a tongue-and-groove board on the floor: fastening to the logs. Fastening the floorboard, a description of all available methods

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When arranging a wooden floor, special attention must be paid to fixing the floorboard. The durability of the coating and some of its operational qualities depend on this. In this article, we will take a closer look at how the floorboards are properly fastened to the base.

General information

The floor in the room is always subjected to the greatest load. Therefore, with poor-quality fixation of the boards, they quickly become loose, as a result of which they begin to creak and “walk”. Over time, such a floor becomes uneven and gradually collapses.

Therefore, when arranging it with your own hands, it is necessary to carry out fastening, taking into account the loads that will be placed on the structure. At professional craftsmen there are secrets of how to make the floor structure rigid, strong and durable, we will get acquainted with them below.

Mounting

Basic Rules

First of all, let's get acquainted with the basic rules that must be observed so that the plank floor meets all of the above requirements:

the distance between the walls and the flooring should be about 10 mm;
before laying the boardwalk, you should check the position of the lag so that their surface is located in the same horizontal plane;
if the boards are joined along the length, the junction should be staggered. In this case, the seam itself should fall on the center of the log;
lumber used for decking must be well dried.

Compliance with these rules is the key correct installation gender.

Mounting methods

Currently, when arranging plank floors, the following methods of fixing floorboards are most often used:

in a secret way using self-tapping screws or nails;
glue way;
using special clamps.

Each installation option has its own characteristics, which we will discuss below.

self-tapping screws

This installation method is usually used when boards are laid on a solid base or logs. The principle is based on the fact that the self-tapping screw is screwed into the base through the tongue at an angle, as shown in the diagram below. The angle should be about 45 degrees.

It should be noted that it is better to use special screws to fix the flooring, as sooner or later the nails become loose and the floor begins to creak.

Note!
In order not to damage the tongue during installation, a hole should be pre-drilled in it.

In order for fastening the board to the board with a spike / groove locking connection without causing problems, the heads of self-tapping screws or nails must be deepened well. For a tight fit of the second row, you can use a rubber or wooden mallet.

Note!
The fastening of the deck board with self-tapping screws is carried out in the face, since this lumber does not have a tongue and groove.
In order to hide the caps of the self-tapping screws in this case, they should be “drowned” and covered over from above.

According to this principle, the floor spreads throughout the room.

Adhesive way

As the name suggests, this method consists of using glue instead of screws or nails. It can be used in cases where the installation of the coating is carried out on top of a solid base, for example, concrete or a base made of chipboard or plywood.

Instructions for fixing floor lumber in this case are carried out as follows:

first of all, the grooves of the boards are coated with an adhesive, for example, PVA or another type of glue;
then the adhesive composition is applied in a thin layer on the base;
after that, the first row is laid, taking into account the gap near the wall of 10 cm. If the panel does not fit in length, it should be cut;

In the photo - laying the coating on the glue

you need to start laying the second row from the remainder of the previous panel. Between themselves, the lumber is joined according to the scheme described above;
after laying several rows, work is usually stopped until the glue hardens;
then laying continues in the same way until the entire floor area is covered.

It should be noted that the adhesive mounting method is the simplest, since there is no need to drill holes and screw in screws. However, as mentioned above, it can not be used for all cases.

Clamp mounting

Some board manufacturers supply them with clips that fit into the slot on the inside. Clamps allow you to fasten the coating to each other, as well as fix it on the logs.

Accordingly, clips can be used for those types of boards that do not have grooves and spikes for locking. It should be noted that clamps are a convenient and simple type of fasteners.

They are driven into logs and fastened to one board with a self-tapping screw, and the other with a pin in the form of a nail. This ensures a secure installation. True, the price of these fasteners is more expensive than the cost of conventional screws.

Advice!
Still use this mount for terrace board from larch and other lumber.

Here, perhaps, are all the main methods of fixing the floorboard, which can be used for self-arrangement.

Output

Pin floorboard based on several ways. The choice depends on the type of base and the coating itself. But, in any case, if you follow the recommendations above, the flooring will turn out to be strong and durable.

Get more useful information on the designated topic, you can from the video in this article.

Wooden floors from boards, despite their long-standing appearance, have not lost their relevance today. The wooden floor is environmentally friendly, has low thermal conductivity, and is suitable for painting with modern high-tech paint and varnish compositions.

These and many other positive characteristics are due to the popularity of floorboards for arranging flooring. Before moving on to the type of installation of boards, consider the types of flooring and its characteristics, taking into account wood of different species.

Pine floorboard

Pine board good quality will last a very long time. The dry material density is 500 kg/m3. Pine belongs to light species, which simplifies its installation, but performance characteristics she has excellent. One more important advantage of a pine board - low cost. The material is in great demand in budget construction and, if necessary, to cover large areas with boardwalk. Such a floor has good thermal insulation and does not require heating.

Photo 1. Pine floor board

The pine board contains 4% resin, which is an obstacle to decay.
Soft pliable wood is easy to work with.
The pine floor provides good sound insulation - the quality is relevant for apartment buildings and for private buildings with several floors.

Larch flooring

Larch flooring is very practical, but this wood is more expensive than pine counterparts. The manufacturer sorts the boards according to the quality of the raw materials and the technology of its processing, depending on which the prices on the construction market for larch can differ significantly:

class larch floor boards "Extra"- it is a high-quality material on which there are no even the slightest defects. The gouging is so perfect that the board looks like it's glossy. The texture of the wood is clearly visible on the pieces. Such coverage is expensive;
in parties "Prima" while maintaining perfect gouging, a small amount of knots may be present;
boards with markings "AB" cheaper due to the presence of a small number of light and dark knots. But if sexual the board is coming for painting, this defect does not play any role, but it allows you to save in price;
the cheapest larch board is marked with a letter "FROM". Such a floor before painting requires a small putty, which will hide all the flaws of the board.

Photo 2. Larch flooring

How to fix the floorboard on various surfaces

There are several methods for laying boardwalk:

on the logs;
on top of the old floors without dismantling them;
on a false base made of moisture-resistant plywood;
on a concrete screed;
on a boardwalk made of low-grade lumber.

Mounting on a false base

Plywood with a thickness of at least 18 mm with water-repellent properties can act as a false base. If standard sheets of 250x120 cm are used, they are cut into modular elements, the assembly of which is quick and easy. The installation of the flooring from the boards is carried out by means of screws and self-tapping screws.

Photo 4. Installation of the floorboard

The design of the self-tapping screw is such that at the end it has a sharp drilling spike that enters the tree, maintaining the integrity of the board, preventing it from cracking. High-quality fasteners are treated with special wax, which ensures good sliding of metal in a wooden base. Screws made of high-strength alloy allow concealed mounting of boards. Fasteners are inserted from the side and obliquely, so that their caps are completely invisible on the finished coating. Such fixing methods are considered as strong as possible and extend the life of the wood material.

Photo 5. Screws for fasteners

For a pine floor, it is recommended to use self-tapping screws Eurotec Paneltwistec SK 4x70 or 4x80 mm or screws Rusconnect 4х70. In places where electrical communications pass, it is necessary to apply locally bituminous mastic. The floor boards are equipped with tongues (thorn/groove system), which ensure a perfect fit and tight fit of the pieces to each other. In order for the next panel to fit well into place, the fasteners of the previous one are recessed 2 mm deep.

Fixing floorboards to an old base or wooden substrate

By analogy with installation on an old floor, boards are fastened using wooden decking from low-grade lumber. Therefore, these two technologies will be described in one section. If the base is strong enough, it is not dismantled, but the boards are laid on top. Old boards and new raw boards are pre-sanded using an eccentric machine with a 40-60 grit wheel. A polyethylene foam underlay is laid on top, which provides waterproofing, protection of the finish floor from fungus and mold.

Photo 6. Antiseptic lag

To even out bumps and drops, plywood is placed on top (you can do without it). The board is attached to plywood with an adhesive method or self-tapping screws, as described above. But even if glue is used, self-tapping screws and screws are still screwed in with a wide step.

Laying wooden flooring on logs

Laying on logs is practiced where the height of the ceilings allows it to be done without compromising the space of the premises. For this method, the thickness of the board must be at least 3 cm. For the first floor, it is necessary to waterproof the base. Role waterproofing material will perform roofing material, which is mounted with an overlap.

Next, the logs themselves are installed, for this purpose a beam 5-7 cm thick is used. The distance between the logs should not exceed 60-70 cm, otherwise the soft board may not withstand the load. Laying soundproofing material will eliminate the drum effect. Expanded clay or mineral wool is ideal for this purpose. The boards begin to be laid from the wall - towards it with a groove, a spike forward. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the first board from above, subsequently the hats will be closed with a plinth. The screws are screwed into the spike at an angle, they should be slightly recessed. Docking of short panels should only fall on the logs.

Photo 7. wooden flooring joist-mounted

Do not be afraid if the floor board (especially for a six-meter pine board) is a little screwed. When laying the board is pressed and tightened with self-tapping screws or screws.

The wooden floor in the house is always beautiful, aesthetic, environmentally friendly and healthy for all households. However, the laying of the floorboard must be done correctly, otherwise the floor threatens to fail soon, namely:

Change the geometry of the flooring;
dry out or rot;
Make the room cold and uncomfortable.

Logs for the floor: dimensions, installation

Logs are long bars of a certain section and made of different material. In construction, a support made of metal, plastic, reinforced concrete or a compound with the inclusion of synthetic resin can be used. However, most often craftsmen use wood logs due to their reasonable cost and fairly good technical characteristics.

Wooden logs for the floor can be made from various coniferous woods or from more moisture resistant larch. The latter is considered the most durable and durable material for the manufacture of timber.

Important: you can use grade 2 or 3 timber as a sex log. This will not affect the quality of the wooden floor lathing in any way. But you need to pay special attention to the moisture content of the board. Since material with a moisture content above 20% threatens to shrink and dry out during its service life. Do I need to talk about what will happen to the floor then?

What are they needed for?

Laying wooden beams as a crate under the future floor allows you to strengthen the entire floor structure as a whole. In addition, sound and heat insulating materials are placed in the distance between the lags, which greatly improves the characteristics of the floor.

Properly mounted timbers and the distance between them provide sufficient ventilation of the underground space of the house, which means that the wood will not rot over time. Especially if the building is located on a site with a high location of groundwater. How to properly mount the logs and calculate the optimal distance between the battens of the crate, we consider below.

Calculations of lag installation parameters

First, you should correctly approach the choice of the lag section. Since it is they who will be the supporting structure, on which the subsequent load will be applied. Thus, it is worth taking care in advance that the finished floor can withstand both the weight of the furniture in the house and the weight of all household members. Therefore, the fastening of the floor boards must be done exclusively correctly.

The cross section of a wooden beam should be the larger, the wider the span of the room for laying the floor. Thus, it has the most common relationship among craftsmen between the thickness of the lag and the width of the span (that is, the distance from the wall to the wall along which the beam-lag will be laid):

For 2 m, a beam with a section of 110x60 mm will suffice;
For 3 m - 150x80 mm;
For 4 m - 180x100 mm;
For 5 m - 200x150 mm;
For 6 m - 220x180 mm.

Thus, we see that the longer the lag is, the larger its cross section should be. This will strengthen the entire wooden plank floor structure.

As for the length of the lag, it is best to order solid beams so that they recede from the wall by 3-5 mm from the ends when laying. This approach to laying the crate will prevent possible deformation of the floor during its operation.

If it is not possible to get solid logs of the same length, then when laying the bars, they resort to splicing them. To do this, it is necessary to install a brick (cement) pedestal or other type of support under the splicing points. In this case, the place of splicing should fall strictly on the fulcrum, and the edges of both bars should step over each other by at least half a meter. If necessary, you can use galvanized pads for fastening and splicing the log.

Important: you need to fix the logs exclusively on the waterproofing layer. Thus, you can additionally protect the boards from rotting. And in the distances between the bars, you can lay heat-insulating material. And for your information: it is not forbidden to use logs of a larger section. This will only reinforce specifications finished floor.

What should be the lag step?

This question is very important when installing floor boards. And it is not difficult to professionally calculate the distance between the stacked bars of the subfloor. It (distance) directly depends on the thickness of the floorboard. That is, the thicker the floor board is, the wider you can take a step between the lags. Below is the optimal ratio between the step of the timber and the thickness of the floor board used.

With a board thickness of 20 mm, the step between the wooden supports will be 30 cm;
With a floorboard thickness of 24mm, the distance between the bars is 40 cm;
Board thickness 30 mm - step 50 cm;
Thickness 35 mm - step 60 cm;
The thickness of the board is 40 mm - the distance between the lags is 70 cm;
Board 45 mm - distance between the bars 80 cm;
Board 50 mm - step 100 cm.

How to mount lags?

If you undertake to independently lay the lathing and floor boards, then prepare in advance. Namely, in addition to the bars and floor boards, prepare essential tool and adjustable support elements. They are the best option because they allow you to install logs on a cement base with perfect evenness.

Do not forget to additionally fix the bars against the walls during installation using a perforator and galvanized corners. If the logs will be laid on wooden beams, then they must first be treated with an antiseptic, and the holes for the fasteners must be drilled in advance. This simple action will prevent the beam from splitting while connecting it to the beam with a dowel.

Floor board fixing

So, it remains for you to mount the floor board to the joists. Here you need to follow some recommendations and then your wooden floor will be reliable, strong and stable under maximum load.

Boards to wooden beam fasten with nails, the length of which exceeds the width of the board twice.
Before you start laying boards, you need to prepare holes for fasteners by drilling. It is important to make holes 1-2 mm less than the thickness of the nail. This will prevent the floor board from splitting.
Ideally, if the length of the boards will clearly fit into the parameters of your room and you will not have to splice the floorboards. But if, nevertheless, a board of the required length could not be found, then two boards must be joined directly on one of the floors. This way you will prevent the floorboard from bending over time.
It is necessary to fasten floor boards to all lags.
Finished flooring must be treated with a special varnish or drying oil.
We close the joints of the wall with the floor with a beautiful wooden plinth or rail.

Important: the boards can be fixed to the beams and self-tapping screws either at an angle of 45 degrees, or with the subsequent processing of the hats with a special sealant. And when laying the floor boards, do not forget to leave 1 cm between the walls and the flooring.

Being engaged in the construction of your own house, it is not enough to pay attention to what materials are used for this - you also need to be very careful about the method of attaching these materials. As you know, any building material "requires" its fasteners and the method of its application. The floorboard is no exception in this regard. Considering the loads that fall to its share, the choice of how to fix the board to the floor simply cannot be an insignificant issue. Indeed, in the event that the boards are not fastened with sufficient quality, they, after already a short time, will begin to "demonstrate their discontent", loosening and changing their position, and the initially smooth and even plank floor will not only creak underfoot - it will literally disintegrate into separate components.

What fasteners are used to fasten the floorboard?

Today, manufacturers produce special self-tapping screws for the floorboard, which provide reliable fastening of the board to the base and guarantee a long service life of the flooring without any additional investment in its repair.

True, it is worth noting that such self-tapping screws are somewhat more expensive than conventional fasteners used in construction. But at the same time, they do their job very efficiently and as efficiently as possible. And as a result, the entire floor covering will last much longer than if conventional self-tapping screws were used to fasten the boards. Savings on self-tapping screws this case- this is an almost guaranteed need to repair the floor in the very near future. And on the boards themselves, fasteners that are not designed specifically for them can have a very negative impact - for example, a crack can occur from screwing such fasteners along the board.

Features of self-tapping screws for the floorboard.

As a rule, self-tapping screws for the floorboard produce several standard sizes: 3.5x35, 3.5x40, 3.5x45 and 3.5x50 mm. The size of the self-tapping screw is selected depending on the thickness of the boards used in the installation of the flooring. All self-tapping screws have a special protective coating that prevents the possibility of corrosion on their surface.

And it is very easy to recognize special self-tapping screws for fastening the floorboard - there is a cutter on their tip, which allows you to screw these screws into the board without pre-drilling holes. This allows for a more “tight” entry of the self-tapping screw itself, and hence a stronger fixation of the board on the base. In the same case, if you pre-drill a hole for a self-tapping screw on the base of the floor, spontaneous unscrewing of the self-tapping screw may occur, and it is not always possible to choose the right drill diameter for the subsequent “landing” of the board on the self-tapping screw.

It is worth saying a few more words about the geometry of the milling cut on the self-tapping screw - the cutting angle is chosen in such a way that the self-tapping screw easily enters the tree without splitting the board. And the whole form of the self-tapping screw is subordinated to this task.

Another feature of the self-tapping screw for fastening a wooden board is the absence of threads on its upper part - this allows the self-tapping screw to more tightly fasten the floorboard to the base.

Distance between individual screws when fastening wooden board to the base should be from 25 to 30 cm.
Some masters recommend using a special glue when laying a floor board on a horizontal base, which is used when laying parquet. It's quite possible variant in the event that there is no additional waterproofing layer between the boards and the base - for example, a moisture-proof film. But at the same time, it is important to know that special glue can only be an additional method of fastening the board - the main method is still self-tapping screws. Without them, it is simply impossible to achieve a sufficiently reliable fastening.
Ideally docking flooring boards with each other, we must not forget that the flooring should not come close to the walls of the house along its entire perimeter - about 7-10 cm of free space should be left between the edge of the flooring and the wall.
It is possible to completely "hide" the screws used in the installation of a wooden floor. To do this, you need to “drown” the head of the self-tapping screw into the board by a few millimeters, and “mask” the resulting hole with a piece of wood that is suitable in size and shape, the breed of which must match the breed from which the boards are made. Some manufacturers of elite building materials produce similar "plugs" that are included with the boards themselves.

The answer to the question of how and how to fix the floorboard is far from being so obvious. Although classic wood floors will be popular for a very long time, technology does not stand still. The main thing is to find a reasonable balance between quality, ease of execution and price.

"Black" floor

In the case of laying the so-called black floor, on which the final coating will then be laid, there is no need to “reinvent the wheel” - it is better to use the good old methods. Perhaps with some addition of modern technology.

Draft floor boards, as a rule, are the usual edged "magpie" or "fifty" (depending on the chosen lag step). It has long been fastened with construction nails from 100 to 150 mm long - this is the cheapest method. But now the methods of fastening have acquired some variety.

Laying such a floor starts from the wall. The first floorboard is simply laid on the logs, the gaps between it and the wall are leveled (it is necessary to leave a gap for ventilation in the genital space) and sewn to the logs through and through in thickness - 2 nails for each. Do the same with the next ones.

Of course, it is better to use dry boards. The only condition is a preliminary quality control. However, in the case of a "black" floor, you can safely use undried material: the floorboards will get rid of moisture already after the flooring in a natural way for 1-1.5 months, and with such gentle drying, the likelihood of warping is minimized.

Fastening the floorboard with nails has its own trick: they are sewn to the logs “in a ruff”. For each beam - 2 nails: the first is hammered vertically, the second - at an angle. Floor boards should be laid with a small gap between them.

Fixing "black" floor boards with self-tapping screws (usually 76-100 mm long) is similar. But in this case, the “ruff rule” can not be followed: their thread itself securely fixes the floor to the joists.

However, to use self-tapping screws to fasten the floorboard, you need a more serious tool. In addition to the usual hacksaw and hammer, you will also need a drill (drill holes for self-tapping screws in the floorboard) and a screwdriver.

Nail heads and self-tapping screw heads must be sunk into the body of the board. Otherwise, there is a high risk of damaging the tool during the subsequent trimming of the floors. It is better, however, not to do this immediately during the flooring process, but immediately before starting to lay the final coating.

Option "in white"

Much more laborious is the manufacture of "white" floors from specially treated floorboards. As a rule, the so-called tongue-and-groove board is used for this. In some cases, it is permissible to use floorboards, the ends of which are selected "in a quarter". But the source material must first be dried in the chamber.

The main thing that must be observed is the layout of the floor boards. They must be placed "in the light" - in other words, perpendicular to the wall in which the number of windows is maximum.

When laying a "white" floor, there should be no gaps between the boards. To do this, the canvas must be "pulled off". Each subsequent board is driven to the previous one with special wedges, and then, if the joint is of high quality, it is attached to the joists. Sometimes you have to attach the butt with a planer. Special ties can also be used to rally the floor, but this is already a professional tool, which is spent on home master it makes no sense.

When laying such a floor, completely different methods of fixing the floorboard are used. This is the so-called parquet joint, when the fasteners are installed not through, but flush into the end of the board.

Ordinary building screws with a length of 35-55 mm are also suitable for this. But it is best to use the special floorboard screws currently on the market. They have a different thread pitch and length, a “spoon” thread imitating a drill, which eliminates the need for pre-drilling channels with a drill, and a flatter head angle (it does not split the edge of the floorboard into which the self-tapping screw is wrapped). They are, of course, significantly more expensive, but the overpayment is justified.

When laying, it is often necessary to join the floor boards in length. Docking options are not particularly diverse. As a rule, the joints are “guessed” so that they fall on one of the logs. This helps keep the flooring from weakening. The edge of each board is superimposed on the log in half its thickness.

But this method, as a rule, is accompanied by the appearance of a considerable amount of trimmings. There is a method that gives great freedom, but requires, however, the use of a professional tool.

At the end of one of the boards, a groove is selected with a manual milling cutter, at the end of the other - a tongue and groove comb. The boards are joined end-to-end with sufficient rigidity. The main thing is the accuracy of fitting the ends to each other. The connection cutter is a regular straight line with a grip depth of 1-1.5 cm.