home Heaters

Rules for the installation of heating radiators. Installation of heating batteries: do-it-yourself technology for the correct installation of radiators. The best installers of SK SanTekhPomoshch

High-quality heating is the key to a favorable climate in the house and the absence of cold weather even in the most severe frosts. Therefore, if you have an old and already inefficient radiator in your apartment or cottage, then it should be replaced. At first glance, this seems to be a very difficult job, available only to specialized specialists with significant experience. But with the proper attitude to business and the availability of some tools, installing heating batteries with your own hands does not pose a serious problem.

Rules for the location of the battery and wiring diagrams

In addition to the characteristics it is very important, one of the factors affecting the efficiency of the heating system is the choice of the right place to locate the product. True, in most cases it is predetermined in advance - the new battery, most likely, will stand in place of the old cast-iron one, which has been there since the building was built. But still, here are a few recommendations for the proper placement of the radiator.

Firstly, it is desirable to place the battery under the window. The fact is that it is a “bridge” through which cold from the street enters an apartment or cottage. The presence of a radiator under the window forms a kind of " thermal curtain, interfering with the process described above. In this case, the battery should be placed strictly in the middle of the window, and, preferably, occupy up to 70-80% of its width. What is it and how to install it, you can see on our page.

Secondly, from the floor to the radiator should be at least 80-120 mm. If there is less, then it will be inconvenient to clean under the battery, a huge amount of dust and debris will accumulate there. And if the radiator is located higher, a certain amount of cold air will collect under it, which requires warming up and, as a result, worsens the operation of the heating system. In addition, a too small distance to the window sill negatively affects the battery efficiency.

Thirdly, a distance of 2.5-3 cm is allowed between the back of the radiator and the wall. If it is less, the processes of convection and the movement of warm air flows are disturbed, and, as a result, the battery works less efficiently and wastes part of the heat in vain.

Table. Standard schemes connection of heating batteries.

Name	Description
	Due to the specifics of the location of the risers of heating systems in residential buildings, such a battery connection scheme is the most common. It is quite easy to implement, the efficiency of the radiator is average. The main disadvantages of this connection method are visible pipes and inability to fit batteries with a large number of sections.
	The second most common radiator connection scheme. The main advantage is the uniform circulation of water throughout the battery, and, as a result, high efficiency work.
	This scheme is often used in country houses- many owners of cottages prefer to hide heating communications under the floor so that they do not spoil appearance rooms. But at the same time, the lower connection of the radiator is 12-15% less efficient than the diagonal one.

Video - Replacing heating radiators in winter

Installing a heating battery with your own hands - step by step instructions

Let's consider the process of installing a bimetallic battery connected sideways to a single-pipe heating system. It is worth saying that in this case the work was carried out in a building where the temperature in the radiators was relatively low, therefore the supply and bypass are made of metal-plastic pipes. Before the beginning self installation batteries, familiarize yourself with the device and characteristics of the heating system at home. Perhaps, for your apartment or cottage, connecting pipes will need to be made from materials with greater resistance to high temperatures.

Let's divide the process of installing a heating battery with our own hands into several separate stages:

dismantling the old radiator;
installation of a new bypass and shutoff valves;
installation of the battery and its connection to the eyeliner.

Preparation for work. Dismantling the old battery

Do-it-yourself installation of a heating battery begins with the preparation of the tool and the dismantling of the old radiator. In this example, we will talk about a standard cast iron product, which still heats many apartments. How are they installed , you can read in our article.

Step 1. Bring home a new battery. Unpack it, check the completeness - whether everything you bought is in place. Also inspect the radiator itself - whether it has any damage or defects.

Step 2 Cut the packaging from under the new battery into two equal parts. Use one as a substrate for the radiator - so you will not scratch it on flooring. Place the second part of the package behind the heating riser - when dismantled with a grinder, a sheet of cardboard will protect the wall from contamination.

Step 3 Prepare everything you need to dismantle the old and install a new radiator - fittings, taps, pipes, tools. Determine for yourself what and where should lie - finding the thing necessary for installation, but lost among the mess, can significantly slow down the work on replacing the battery.

Step 4 Dismantle the three-way valve connecting the heating riser, bypass and supply. First, loosen it with an adjustable wrench. If water starts to drip, screw everything back immediately - most likely, the riser was not blocked properly. And if everything is in order, work on dismantling the crane further.

Step 5 Next, disconnect the old battery and wiring from the riser. First, unscrew the nut on the thread drive. Then determine how far you can cut this thread so that you can then mount a tee connecting the inlet, bypass and riser without any problems.

Advice! In some cases old paint, applied to the nut and connection of the riser with the bypass and piping, may interfere with operation. You can remove it with a regular knife with a retractable blade or a metal brush.

Step 6 Remove the battery from the mounts.

Step 7 According to the previously defined mark on the threads connecting the heating riser to the battery, trim with a grinder.

Step 8 Remove the old battery and take it somewhere where it will not interfere further work. Given the high mass of the cast-iron radiator, do this with someone if possible.

Step 9 Remove the old battery mounts from the wall. If they hold particularly tight, use a hammer and chisel.

Do-it-yourself installation of heating batteries

Rules for the location of the battery and wiring diagrams

In addition to the characteristics of the radiator itself and the literacy of its connection, one of the most important factors affecting the efficiency of the heating system is choosing the right place to locate the product. True, in most cases it is predetermined in advance - the new battery, most likely, will stand in place of the old cast-iron one, which has been there since the building was built. But still, here are a few recommendations for the proper placement of the radiator.

How to install a radiator with your own hands

Firstly, it is desirable to place the battery under the window. The fact is that it is a “bridge” through which cold from the street enters an apartment or cottage. The presence of a radiator under the window forms a kind of "thermal curtain" that interferes with the process described above. In this case, the battery should be placed strictly in the middle of the window, and, preferably, occupy up to 70-80% of its width.

All of the above principles for placing a heating battery are presented in the diagram above.

Table. Standard schemes for connecting heating batteries.

Do-it-yourself installation of heating batteries - detailed step-by-step instruction!

Find out how do-it-yourself heating batteries are installed! Requirements, site selection, step-by-step installation instructions, tips, photo + video.

Installing heating radiators with your own hands is a decision that should be taken seriously: after all, not everyone can do it. At the very least, you need to be prepared for such a process. Usually, if you look at the situation only amateurishly, you can get negative emergency consequences at the exit.

Installation of heating radiators

If you live in an apartment in a multi-storey building, then it is best to call specialists for this, as there is a risk of flooding not only your apartment. In a private house, you can try to carry out the installation and install home-made heating batteries with your own hands - however, for this you need to deal with the main points of the installation.

Preliminary preparation

First, you need to decide what type of wiring was used to install the heating system. Those who arranged it should know this - one-pipe or two-pipe wiring.

And before you start installing heating radiators with your own hands, you also need to find out which heating circuit is one-pipe or two-pipe.

After all, the choice of parts and their number will depend on the wiring diagram of your heating system, photo diagrams below.

Single pipe heating system

Two-pipe heating system

What you need to install

Depending on what design features has a heating system, the number and list of parts required for installation will depend. For example, if it is single-pipe heating, then a bypass will be required. In the event of a malfunction, it will be possible to turn off only the device that has this element, and the entire system will not need to be shut off - this is especially true in winter situations, when it is not very convenient to turn off the heating in frost.

The number of parts for installation is also determined by the connection diagram and the type of radiators. According to the scheme, couplings, adapters, corners and nipples are selected.

Also, installing a heating battery with your own hands will require shut-off valves. You need to select a radiator type of fittings, you should not get carried away with complex ball valves with the so-called "American", which require professional knowledge. And it will be difficult to ensure tightness without special experience in this area. To connect heating radiators with your own hands to the pipeline, you will need spurs that will correspond to the dimensions of the radiator and pipes along the thread. A sleeve will also be wound onto the sleds - after twisting it is inserted into the battery. It is worth noting that when you buy cast iron radiators, you need to check before installation whether the brackets match the material of the wall on which they will be mounted.

Stopcock installation

In order to be able to release air from the battery, you need to put a Mayevsky crane on it. As a rule, it is in the factory configuration, but if not, then buy it.

We calculate the location

Those who are going to install a heating radiator with their own hands should take into account that the sections of pipes that lead to the devices must be placed with a slope (slight) - in the direction of the movement of the heat carrier. If the gasket is strictly horizontal or there is a skew in the installation, then air will be concentrated in the batteries made of cast iron and steel. You will have to regularly blow it out manually so that the heat transfer does not decrease.

It is better if the central axis of the battery coincides with the axis that goes through the center of the window.

Deviations can be no more than 2 cm, such that will not be determined visually. But such a recommendation does not apply to strict requirements.

Marking the central axis of the radiator

Do-it-yourself installation of heating batteries involves the implementation of several strict rules:

The components of the connection to the heating radiators should be placed so that the slope is 0.005, it is recommended to increase it to 0.01. So, 1 m of the pipeline will have to slope towards the circulation - and at least 0.5 cm. The angle of inclination must be determined by the length of the pipe sections that are installed.
From the floor surface to the radiator should be 6-10 cm or more.
From the lower outline of the window sill to the upper outline of the battery - 5-10 cm.
From the plane of the wall to the battery - 3-5 cm.
Be sure to observe the horizontal and vertical directions.

The slope of the pipes of the heating system

To increase the performance of the radiator, it is possible to install a specialized shield made of a special heat-reflecting material before installation. Or you can just take and cover the plane of the wall with such a composition that has

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators, installation and connection, photo

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators. Marking radiators with brackets. Tools and materials for mounting radiators.

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators: connection options, installation steps, tips and tricks

In the old days, it was problematic to install heating radiators on your own due to welding, which was an integral part of the installation. Modern materials make it possible to do without special devices, which makes it possible to install heating radiators in the house with your own hands.

To carry out similar activities in the apartment, it is recommended to involve plumbers of the service company, as it will be necessary to completely disconnect the system from the main line and drain the water. Not everyone knows how to do it right, and a poor-quality connection can turn into a flood of hot water.

Determining the location of radiators

If we are talking about replacing old structures with new ones, then the question of location disappears by itself. In the case of planning a circuit diagram, it is necessary to take into account important factors according to which batteries must create reliable thermal protection. No matter how high-quality modern double-glazed windows are, they are still sources of cold air flow. That is why batteries are installed in almost all rooms below the window. But at the same time, it should be borne in mind that the radiator must cover at least 70% of the window opening. Only then will it function effectively.

Experts recommend during installation to adhere to the following rules:

- the distance from the window sill to the top of the heater should be within 9-14 cm;

- from the bottom of the battery to the floor, a gap of 7-12 cm is required;

- between the radiator and the wall you need to leave a distance of 3-5 cm;

- the heating structure should be placed in the center of the window opening.

Based on the listed requirements, we can summarize that the installation site should precede the choice of model. Only if certain parameters are available, the power and configuration of the sections are selected.

Radiator connection options

The diagonal method involves connecting the supply pipe to the upper part of the heater, and the return pipe from below, but located on the other side;

The bottom connection is made at the bottom of the battery on opposite sides;

The side or one-way method is more often used with a vertical wiring diagram with connection to the right or left side of the radiator.

Do-it-yourself installation steps for heating radiators

1. Preparatory work provide for the dismantling of old structures, if necessary. The system must first be completely drained of water. On the wall, you will need to install special fasteners for batteries or check the strength and correct installation of existing hooks. You should also do a study of the wall surface for integrity. Often cracks and gaps form under the windowsill over time. They must be sealed with cement mortar, and a foil insulation must be fixed on a dry surface. Among other options for finishing the wall: plaster with a special insulating composition, plasterboard sheathing with an insulating layer, etc.

2. The complete set of the radiator includes: installation of an air vent, screwing plugs into unoccupied holes in the manifolds. In case of discrepancy between the diameters of pipes and collectors, the connection is made using adapters.

3. Next, shut-off and control valves are installed. To do this, all inputs and outputs are set Ball Valves. They will allow the next repair work without completely shutting down the heating system. Thermostats are not mandatory elements, but their use saves coolant consumption on warm days. Therefore, regarding additional devices, each owner makes his own decision.

4. When hanging radiators on the mounts, it is recommended not to remove the protective film from new models. It will protect the surface of the batteries from contamination until the finishing work is completed.

5. The connection of the supply pipe and the discharge pipe is carried out sequentially by one of the existing methods: threaded, crimp, press, welding.

6. The next step is crimping. The water in the system should be opened at low pressure, a sharp start can provoke a water hammer, as a result of which the shut-off valves will fail.

To increase heat transfer and save thermal resources, it is worth fixing a sheet of foil insulation to the wall on the back of the radiator. Penny costs will save up to 10% on heating.

When installing a side-connected battery, you can pre-hang the structures, then make the piping. In the case of a bottom connection, work begins with determining the center distance of the nozzles. The installation of heating devices can be completed after the repair is completed.

In order to rationally use energy resources and save on space heating, it is recommended to equip radiators with thermostats (each device has a separate thermostat). So in each room you can set different temperature conditions, comfortable for living.

The calculation of the required number of sections is made on the basis of the area of \u200b\u200bthe room and the power of one section, which is indicated in the passport.

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators: connection options, installation steps, tips and tricks

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators: connection options, installation steps, tips and tricks In the old days, it was possible to install heating radiators on your own

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators

Properly selected and installed batteries are able to provide a cozy atmosphere in the house even in the coldest winter. Do-it-yourself installation of a heating radiator will not cause any problems if you follow the instructions and advice of specialists who will help you choose and draw up a connection diagram correctly, as well as calculate the placement.

Types of radiators

Structurally, all heating radiators are similar, but the essential difference is in the material from which they are made. There are the following types of heating batteries:

Aluminum are distinguished by good heat dissipation and relative lightness, so it makes sense to install them in houses with wooden walls. Their disadvantage is considered to be susceptibility to water pressure drops in the system and its chemical composition.

Bimetallic batteries

Cast iron are deprived of these disadvantages, however, they big weight imposes some restrictions. In addition, they are distinguished by a long period of operation (about 50 years).

The remaining two types are considered a compromise between cast iron and aluminum radiators. They have a relatively small mass and good performance characteristics.

For private houses, if you have your own well, it is possible to install heating radiators of any type, but bimetallic ones will be the most convenient in installation.

Site selection and preparation for installation

To install heating batteries, craftsmen from housing departments or specialized companies are usually involved, but this operation can also be done by hand. When carrying out installation work, it is necessary to take into account the location of the radiator relative to the window and the floor, its heat transfer depends on this.

Installation of heating radiators should take place exactly in the middle of the window, the deviation from the center should not exceed 2 cm. Its width should be proportional to the width of the window sill and be 50-75% of its size.

It is equally important to observe the distance between the floor and the heating device. It should not be more than 12 cm. At the same time, the gap between the upper point of the battery and the lower edge of the window sill should not be less than 5 cm. And between the wall and the radiator - in the range of 2-5 cm.

Removing the replacement radiator

If the radiator is installed in your own home, then it should be borne in mind that it must be preceded by preparatory work:

overlapping water;
draining water from dismantled parts of the heating system;
pressure testing of pipes (cleaning of liquid with compressed air);
dismantling the replacement radiator.

Radiator connection diagrams

Do-it-yourself installation of radiators requires a properly selected connection diagram. It depends on the location of the inlet and outlet holes for the coolant in it. In total, there are three schemes for connecting radiators:

cross (heat loss 2%);
lower (12-13%);
single-pipe (19-20% loss), also called "Leningrad".

Battery connection diagram with thermostat

The choice of connection scheme depends on the type of heating: one-pipe or two-pipe. The first option is most common in apartment buildings. The principle of such a scheme is that the incoming and cooled coolant move along the same circuit. With a two-pipe system, the cooled coolant moves for subsequent heating through a separate pipe.

In private houses with a two-pipe heating system, the lower radiator connection scheme is considered the most popular - it is distinguished by relative ease of installation and low heat loss.

Features of connecting and mounting radiators

When installing radiators with your own hands, it is impossible to avoid certain difficulties. But you can minimize them by following the instructions and guidance provided by our experts.

Aluminum radiators

The installation of aluminum heating batteries requires assembling the sections together by screwing in a plug with gaskets and radiator plugs, and then mounting the Mayevsky faucet and thermostatic valves. An aluminum radiator is installed on special brackets, previously fixed to the wall.

Cast iron radiators

In principle, the installation of cast iron batteries is not much different from aluminum batteries, but the weight of the radiator and the strength of the wall must be taken into account. This is especially true for multi-section cast-iron radiators, their weight can exceed 100 kg.

In wooden or dilapidated houses with fragile walls, it is more expedient to install cast iron not on brackets, but on special mounting legs; they can be sold separately or together with a battery. It is also desirable to use additional props.

To increase heat transfer, the batteries are installed at an inclination of about 5 degrees. It is recommended to make a slope in such a way that air accumulates at the valve, that is, this angle should be set a little higher. Before installation, it is necessary to unscrew the cast-iron radiators in order to check the tightness of the connection of the nipples between the connecting pipes of the sections.

Features of mounting bimetallic batteries

The bimetallic radiator, despite the rather high price, is in great demand. Such popularity of batteries of this type is explained by their high strength and immunity to the chemical composition of the coolant. But they also have some nuances during installation. Installation is recommended to be carried out in a protective factory film, which will prevent mechanical damage.

Wall mounting is done with brackets. Due to its lightness, the radiator can be fixed both on the main concrete wall, and on drywall construction. In the first case, the brackets are mounted to the wall with dowels and cement mortar, and in the second - by means of double-sided mounting fittings.

When installing aluminum and bimetallic radiators, it is imperative to provide for the installation of a valve (Mayevsky) to bleed air. It should be located at the top of the bimetallic battery. It can be either mechanical or automatic. Each model contains it in the configuration, or its installation is provided in the design.

When installing, it is better to use an automatic valve, as it allows you to remove the air accumulated in the battery without human intervention, thereby extending the life of the device.

Regardless of the type of radiator, do-it-yourself installation must take place in strict accordance with the attached instructions. Having drawn up a clear action plan, having calculated the installation site and using our advice, you can easily install the heating battery yourself. If you decide to entrust the work to a specialist, then thanks to the information received, you will be able to control the process and participate in the preparation of the plan, which will help to avoid problems and shortcomings later.

Installation of heating batteries, do-it-yourself installation with photos and videos

Installation of heating radiators: assistance in drawing up a diagram, choosing an installation site, especially connecting a photo and video radiator, expert advice

It is difficult to imagine a cozy home without a heater or a simple radiator. Most likely, no one will live in a freezing or terribly damp house. In such a house, people are constantly sick. A similar problem is relevant for Russia with its harsh climate, which is why the heating season in the country lasts about six months.

Radiators are already provided in all houses, but sometimes it happens that even with several batteries, the house does not warm up well enough. In this case, if the winter is especially cold, and the existing batteries cannot cope with the frost, or there are simply no heating devices in a room, heating radiators need to be installed. With them, there will be no terrible humidity in the house, leading to fungal infection of walls and furniture, there will be no terrible cold, from which it reduces teeth.

Why does a radiator, or in other words a battery, cope so well with space heating?

The device of a heating radiator is very simple. circulates through it hot water, it transfers heat to the metal frame, and it heats the air. Hot air rises to the ceiling and cold air sinks down. This movement of air is called convection. To make convection more efficient, the installation of a heating battery is always the same.

In order for the house to be heated better, it is advisable to install a heating battery near the window and as low as possible. Then all the cold air that enters the house from the street will immediately heat up and will not be able to cause discomfort to the residents.

Important things to remember before starting the installation of heating radiators.

It is very important to choose the right type of radiator. After all, not all of them are the same: some radiators are expensive and not efficient enough in certain cases, while others are too massive for the room in which they want to be installed.

You should start with steel radiators. The installation of steel batteries was very popular during the Soviet era. Such radiators have a very low inertia and a sufficiently large heat transfer. Their price and energy consumption please everyone, but still such batteries are not very durable.

After the water is drained from them, which is usually done at the end of the heating season, the radiators begin to rust from the inside. Well, one more thing, they are bulky and therefore the installation of a steel radiator is not suitable for all walls and brackets.

Lighter and more comfortable radiators are made of aluminum. They have very high heat transfer and heating rate. If the oxygen shell of aluminum dissolves, then the metal will become very active, which means that the corrosivity will increase.

The installation of cast iron radiators is also popular in Russia. These radiators, unlike the previous two, can last up to half a century, and all because of the inactivity of the metal. Also, cast iron has a high heat capacity, so after the heating is turned off, the heat will remain for several more hours. However, the heat capacity is negative side- after connecting such a battery to a heat supply unit, you need to wait a long time for it to heat up.

For those who want to use the best properties of aluminum and steel radiators, bimetallic batteries have been created. Their core is made of steel, and the shell is made of aluminum. However, before installing heating batteries from two metals, you should make sure that there is enough money, because their prices are very high. But for the sake of long service and high heat transfer, you can give any money.

There are more difficult to install radiators that are mounted directly into the floor. They almost do not take up space, evenly warm the room, and at the same time, windows do not fog up because of them. However, the installation length is very high and due to the fact that the radiator is located under the floor, the heat transfer is low.

Why shouldn't a non-professional try to install a battery?

Installing a heating radiator is a very difficult task, it must be done with high precision. The slightest deviation from the standards can lead to a drop in heating efficiency.

In general, someone who does not understand the installation of plumbing equipment can make many mistakes. Here are a few of the most common, after which the installation of a radiator will not bring the proper benefit:

Installation in the wrong place;
Wrong connection method;
Improper handling and care.

Even if the installation of the heating radiator was correct, which is very unlikely for a layman to work, the radiator can be placed in a place that reduces heat transfer. For example, if you place a battery in decorative box, heat transfer will drop by 15 or even 20 percent. And if the window sill is very large, then the radiator under it will lose about 10 percent of the heat.

Installing radiators and then connecting them incorrectly can be a waste of money. When the inlet and outlet pipes are connected to the radiator from the same side, an increase in the number of sections will worsen the condition of the system. In this case, the first section will be heated to the required 80 degrees, and the rest will be much less.

Even if somehow the installation of the heating radiator was successful, it was connected correctly and everything is going well, improper care of the battery can ruin everything. For example, if you paint the radiator in several layers, the heat will be retained by the air gap between the layers of paint, so the heating of the room will deteriorate. If we paint, then only in black, then the heat transfer will increase, but just a little. Also, do not paint the radiator white, this will slightly worsen the heat transfer.

Installing the battery correctly is not so difficult.

A variety of heating systems provide a comfortable air temperature inside residential premises. The vast majority of heating concepts are based on special heat transfer devices, commonly called batteries. You can install them yourself if you know the nuances of the work.

We have collected and systematized for you all the information about the options and methods of connection. Taking into account our recommendations, the installation of heating batteries with your own hands will be carried out without the slightest difficulty. All readers of the article presented by us will cope with it without problems.

A detailed description of connection options and technologies is supplemented with visual diagrams, photo collections, and video instructions.

To understand what battery designs are needed, initial knowledge about the modes and operating conditions of heating devices will help.

Below is a summary of information on the important parameters of heating systems when choosing batteries:

1. Internal pressure. The value required for the competent choice of a device that can withstand pressure in the heating circuit:

Private house (autonomous) = 1.5-2 atm.
Private house (centralized) = 2-4 atm.
5-storey building (centralized and autonomous) = 2-4 atm.
9-storey building (centralized and autonomous) = 5-7 atm.
House over 9 floors (autonomous) = 5-7 atm.
House over 9 floors (centralized) = 7-10 atm.

If the technical capabilities of the battery are lower, there is a possibility of depressurization of the device with other negative consequences.

2. Permissible heating temperature. Characteristic indicating the upper temperature limit, above which the battery may fail:

Autonomous = up to 90⁰С.
Centralized with plastic wiring = up to 90⁰С.
Centralized with steel wiring = up to 95⁰С.

Operation in violation of the temperature regime leads to melting of the seals, deformation and loss of tightness of the device.

3. The degree of pollution of the coolant. A parameter that is mainly of interest to owners and water supply:

Autonomous private house = high, medium, low when installing filters.
Autonomous multi-storey building = high, medium, low when installing a filter system.
Centralized = low, in rare cases medium.

Water supplied by centralized networks to municipal heating systems undergoes complex treatment. The content of sand and clay suspension in water extracted from private wells, wells, open sources, may exceed the allowable limit.

Traditional Battery Locations

For further selection of battery designs, it is required to determine the points . They are placed in places of greatest penetration of cold. This is done to minimize the effect of drafts on the microclimate of the premises. They also focus on ensuring availability for the purpose of periodic maintenance.

Batteries mounted on the bottom create a thermal curtain in rooms with panoramic windows, for example, on verandas

Battery areas:

Window niches. The most common location for heating appliances.
Extended interwindow spaces. One of the popular options.
Corners and "blind" walls of corner rooms. It is used to enhance the heating of rooms with increased heat loss due to the intense effects of winds.
Bathrooms, pantries, bathrooms, one or two sides of which are combined with a main load-bearing wall.
Unheated entrances, hallways of private houses.
Apartment corridors of the first floors of high-rise buildings.

Modern designs of heating appliances fit under balcony door or entrance to the loggia.

An example of the location of heating radiators in one house:

Image gallery

The most popular and rational location of the heating radiator is under the window, behind a protective decorative screen.

If the space under the window is occupied, you can hang the radiator to the adjoining wall in close proximity to the window

An ordinary heating radiator hardly fits into the bedroom interior. Way out - false cabinet or cabinet

In the bathroom, the heater performs the additional function of a heated towel rail, so it often differs in design

The traditional location of the batteries in the living room

How to place a radiator in a children's room

Mounting the battery in the cabinet

Installation of a radiator-dryer in the bathroom

Design specifics of heating devices

Structurally, batteries are divided into groups, these are radiators, convectors and registers.

Overview of popular heating appliances

The radiator is the most common type. This is a heating device consisting of vertical separate compartments-sections. In classic collapsible products, sections are independent work items. They are joined in the required quantity using threaded internal connections. This assembly scheme gives the batteries versatility.

Before installing, possibly completing a heating radiator, it is required to carry out a calculation in accordance with the required heat output. According to the calculations, the number of sections of prefabricated batteries is selected. Horizontal cavities of radiators obtained by connecting sections are called collectors. Upper and lower.

Modern technologies have mastered the manufacture of less versatile, but more reliable non-separable radiators using welding and one-piece casting methods. They do not have joints and seals, typical for collapsible radiators. Design for every taste.

A convector is a one-piece heating device made of a tubular or cavity heat exchanger with rows of heat-removing fins. Convectors are available in the following versions:

Wall.
Floor (duct)
Plinth.

The register is a non-separable heating device made of straight smooth horizontal pipes arranged and combined in a certain way.

Details about the types of radiators

Radiators differ in the material used for their manufacture.

Within the same variety, there may be different design solutions sometimes unexpectedly original

The market for heating appliances can offer:

Cast iron radiators. Ancestors of batteries of this group. Relatively inexpensive. Maintain each of the modes of operation. They serve up to 50 years. The main disadvantage is that they are heavy, which, however, helps to retain heat for a long time when the heating is turned off.
Steel radiators. These batteries are made from steel pipes. They work in any conditions, but are less durable than cast-iron counterparts. They have low heat dissipation.
Aluminum radiators. Made of lightweight aesthetic material, these batteries give off heat best of all. They are resistant to all operating temperatures, but are afraid of water hammer. Aluminum is very demanding on the quality of the coolant.
Bimetallic radiators. Steel innards clad in aluminum - that says it all. The main characteristics, like steel, heat transfer - almost like aluminum. Price - bites.
Copper radiators. These are “eternal” heat emitters for any premises. Their only and most significant disadvantage is their ultra-high cost.
plastic radiators. Innovation in the family of radiators. While they are suitable only for systems autonomous heating private houses with a coolant heated to no more than 80⁰С.

The most sensitive to operating conditions. These radiators reliably serve only 15 years. Their use is possible only in autonomous heating systems.

Outwardly popular models of radiators from different materials similar:

Image gallery

A traditional type of radiator that faithfully served our grandparents. The old models were replaced by stylized new ones.

Steel radiators are distinguished by a long service life and resistance to the characteristics of the coolant

Light weight is a really important advantage of aluminum, especially if the heater needs to be installed on a relatively weak support.

Cast iron radiator

Steel heater

Light aluminum battery

Copper heating radiator

Characteristics of the convector variety

Convectors are significantly inferior in heat transfer to radiators, but in some cases they successfully complement or replace them:

1. Wall mounted convectors. Batteries in this design are usually made of steel, so they are cheap. They are unstable to water hammer, and their use in centralized heating systems is undesirable.

Designed like panels, convectors look like closed radiators, they are very nice, they fit perfectly into the interiors of any plan.

But made in the form of pipes bristling with plates - such batteries are only suitable for installation in utility rooms.

2. Floor convectors (channel). An excellent solution for creating a thermal curtain at the doors of a balcony or loggia. Made of durable corrosion-resistant materials, they are unpretentious to the requirements of operation.

3. Plinth convectors. Able to work in all conditions and modes, these batteries are the best suited for creating a microclimate where all other heaters will look bulky.

The plinth type is appropriate in bathrooms and storerooms adjacent to cold street walls and unheated porches.

Brief description of heating registers

Once the batteries of this group were made handicraft using conventional welding. Registers can be used in any heating systems, but due to their unsightly appearance they are used mainly in auxiliary premises: garages, storerooms, basements. Sometimes they can be seen in the entrances of old high-rise buildings.

Modern manufacturers have "laid eyes" on this group of heating devices.

Shiny chrome-plated metal registers can decorate the design renovation of any living space.

Calculation of thermal power of batteries

The stage of preliminary selection of batteries is over, you can proceed to the calculation of the thermal power required from them. The calculations are based on a relative power of 100 W for heating 1 m² of a reference room.

The full formula includes many correction factors and looks like this:

Q = (100 x S) x R x K x U x T x H x W x G x X x Y x Z,

S= area of the heated room, where:

R- additional parameter for rooms oriented to the east or north = 1.1;

K- correction for the presence of external walls in the room:

one = 1.0;
two = 1.2;
three = 1.3;
four = 1.4;

U- coefficient of insulation of street walls:

low = 1.27 (without insulation);
average = 1.0 (plaster, surface thermal insulation);
high \u003d 0.85 (insulation made according to special calculations);

T- weather indicator of the period of lowest temperatures in ⁰С:

up to -10 = 0.7;
up to -15 = 0.9;
up to -20 = 1.0;
up to -25 = 1.1;
up to -35 = 1.3;
below -35 = 1.5;

H- ceiling height index in meters:

up to 2.7 = 1.0;
up to 3 = 1.05;
up to 3.5 = 1.1;
up to 4 = 1.15;

W- characteristics of the room located on the floor above:

unheated and uninsulated = 1.0 (cold attic);
unheated, but insulated = 0.9 (attic with insulated roof);
heated = 0.8.

G– window quality level:

serial wooden frames = 1.27;
frames with double-glazed windows = 1.0;
frames with double glazing = 0.85;

X- the ratio of the area of window openings to the area of \u200b\u200bthe room:

up to 0.1 = 0.8;
up to 0.2 = 0.9;
up to 0.3 = 1.0;
up to 0.4 = 1.1;
up to 0.5 = 1.2;

Y- the value of the openness of the surface of the batteries:

fully open = 0.9;
covered with a window sill = 1.0;
obscured by the horizontal protrusion of the wall = 1.07;
covered with a window sill and a front casing = 1.12;
blocked from all sides = 1.2;

Z– battery connection efficiency (1.0 ÷ 1.13; see the section below for details).

The calculated value must be multiplied by a conditional coefficient of 1.15. It will provide some heat reserve for the possibility of more precise adjustment of devices for operation in low-temperature mode.

Efficient ways to connect

Before continuing to learn how to properly select, install and connect radiators and other heating devices, it is necessary to consider the two main types of piping of existing heating systems. They differ in the principles of organizing the supply of coolant to the batteries and returning it to the system.

In practice, the pipe supplying heat is referred to as the "supply". The pipe that returns the coolant is the "return". The vertical distribution pipe (supply or return) is called the "riser".

In single-pipe heating systems, the coolant is supplied unevenly. It will enter the devices farthest from the boiler, having already cooled down somewhat. Therefore, single-pipe circuits have length restrictions

Traditional wiring options:

Single pipe. The wiring is arranged in such a way that one pipe plays the role of supply and return. Batteries "crash" into it sequentially. The coolant bypasses the heating devices in the order of their connection.
Two-pipe. In a two-pipe wiring, one pipe is the supply, the other is the return. With this option, battery heaters are connected simultaneously to both pipes, parallel to each other. The coolant circulates through all batteries simultaneously.

Coefficient "Z" in the formula for calculating heat output depends on the connection options for heating devices.

The most widely used connection methods in practice:

Method number 1. Diagonally. Z = 1.0.

This connection order is the most effective, especially if the heating system is not working well. The coolant enters the battery from one side from the top, passes through the entire internal cavity and exits from the bottom on the other side.

Thermal energy is transferred to the entire surface of the heater. For radiators longer than 12 sections, this method is highly recommended.

Method number 2. On the side (top - entrance, bottom - exit). Z = 1.03.

Until recently - the most common method of connecting batteries. It is convenient during installation due to the short length of the connections.

For radiators up to 12 sections, it is almost as good as a diagonal connection method in terms of heat transfer. But this is fine operating systems heating. If the systems operate sluggishly, the hot coolant will not reach the final radiator compartments.

Method number 3. Bottom on both sides. Z = 1.13.

Despite the least efficiency, this connection method quickly took root in new construction, thanks to plastic pipes. The wiring of heating systems are mounted in the floor, and do not overshadow the design of the premises. With properly configured heating systems, all parts of the batteries receive uniform heating.

The final stage of battery selection

The final selection stage is based on the obtained results of the required power from the heating devices.
Ready-made one-piece designs of radiators, convectors or registers are selected at the time of purchase.

From the factory passports of products, data on their thermal power are visible. When purchasing batteries, the features of the installation sites (for example, the possible dimensions of the device) are taken into account.

Non-separable radiators and registers with individual parameters are manufactured by specialized organizations to order. Collapsible radiators should be looked at by the number of sections, based on their total thermal power.

Approximate individual power of standard 500 mm sections from different materials (Watt with a coolant of 70⁰С):

Cast iron = 160;
Steel tubular = 85;
Aluminum = 200;
Bimetallic = 180.

The power of collapsible radiators is regulated by attaching additional or disconnecting excess sections.
When choosing batteries of various designs for one room, it is more correct to start their selection with non-separable products.

It is also suggested to install between the battery and outer wall heat shield. For its manufacture, you can pay attention to modern heat-reflecting materials isospan, penofol, alufom.

An air vent is a small device that is built into the part of the battery where air can accumulate. For collapsible radiators, this is a threaded hole in the end of the upper manifold, opposite to the supply pipe

When fixing heating devices in place, their deviation from the horizontal level is not allowed. It is allowed to raise the side with an air vent up to 1 cm for better collection and release of air.

When connecting heaters to systems with risers, the centers of the battery inlets must not be higher than the centers of the outlets from the supply pipes. If, when connecting to risers, it is supposed to equip thermal units with taps or temperature control devices, in single-pipe heating systems it is additionally necessary if they are not available.

The bypass is a jumper in parallel with the battery connection. This element allows you to organize the control of the heater. It is a piece of pipe connecting the inlet and outlet of the battery. The diameter of the jumper pipe must be one standard size smaller than that of the riser pipe. In two-pipe heating systems, the installation of bypasses is not required.

Due to the widely differing coefficients of expansion of materials, it is not recommended to connect batteries with plastic piping to steel pipe wiring. Conversely, the main plastic wiring eliminates the transition to steel connection parts.

Until the installation is completed, it is advisable not to remove the packaging shell from steel, aluminum and bimetallic batteries in order to avoid mechanical damage.

Preparing collapsible radiators for installation

If the purchased collapsible batteries do not have the calculated parameters, they should be modified by disconnecting the extra sections or adding to the desired amount. Between themselves, the radiator compartments are pulled together with the help of plumbing nipples through round sealing gaskets.

Nipple - a short thick-walled tube with external thread. Half right, half left. Inside the tube, along the entire length, there are two opposite longitudinal technological protrusions.

The radiator wrench can be replaced with a chisel of a suitable length, with a sting width sufficient to securely hook the protrusions of the nipple. The role of the wrench will be played by an adjustable pipe wrench.
The design of the collapsible radiator has a left-hand thread.

For the correct perception of the direction of rotation, it is recommended to unscrew or tighten the nipples by inserting a key or a chisel into the holes of the sections where the thread is right-handed. To avoid distortion of parts, the holes must be alternated through a turn or two of the tool.

Fixing collapsible radiators in place

Collapsible radiators are hung on special brackets. The most reliable are arc-shaped hooks built into the main walls of the premises. In this case, the following distances must be provided:

From the floor = 6-12 cm, sufficient for cleaning and heating the bottom of the wall,
at least 7 cm to the window sill to ensure effective convection,
from the heat-reflecting screen or from the wall = 3-5 cm.

Brackets are mounted in such a way as to fall into the intersection space of radiators. According to an unwritten rule, when hanging batteries, end caps with a right-hand thread should be on the right, with a left-hand thread - on the left.

Hook markings are done in the following order:

A vertical line of the axial center of the radiator is drawn (when installing the battery under the window, most often this is also its center) with a length not less than the height of the battery.
The distance between the gaps of the first-second section of the radiator and the last-penultimate one is measured.
A horizontal line is drawn corresponding to the center of the upper radiator manifold, with a length of at least the measured distance (taking into account the general advice above).
The distance itself is plotted right-left on a drawn horizontal line symmetrically with respect to the axial center line. The resulting two points are the places for the upper hooks. They will support the weight of the structure.
From the point of intersection of the horizontal lines and the axial center, a distance equal to the center-to-center distance of the collectors is laid vertically downwards (standard is 500 mm).
A horizontal line is drawn through the intended point, corresponding to the center of the lower radiator manifold.
The distance measured in paragraph 2 is plotted to the right and left on the drawn horizontal line symmetrically with respect to the axial center line. The resulting two points are places for the lower hooks. They will ensure the immobility of the structure.
At the marked points, holes are drilled for dowels, into which threaded brackets are wrapped or hooks with smooth rods are hammered.

The drilling process is described for cast iron and bimetal radiators with no more than 10 sections, and aluminum radiators with no more than 12 sections. For larger batteries in the center area, a hook should be added at the top and bottom.

Fixing in place non-collapsible views

Brackets for installing non-separable radiators are usually included in the product kit. The sequence of marking the mounting points of the brackets for hanging these batteries is described in the attached mounting diagram. The procedure resembles that painted for collapsible radiators.

The choice of brackets for fixing convectors is varied. It is due to the location of the heater.

Brackets convectors are held on the walls, fixed on the floor, suspended from below to the window sills

By analogy with collapsible radiators, they are hung on arcuate hooks fixed to the walls. The total number of brackets is standardly four (two - hold the top tube, two - the bottom). For light registers, it is possible to use holders for pipes of the appropriate diameter with clamps.

Connecting batteries to heating systems

In connection work, it is advisable to use a torque tool. The necessary tightening forces are specified in the passports of the purchased heaters. To create tightness of threaded connections, you will need a fluoroplastic sealing material, briefly called "FUM tape", and sanitary flax.

If the batteries are connected to the wiring of the heating system with a plastic eyeliner, you will additionally need:

Welding machine for polypropylene parts.
Or a crimping tool for metal-plastic pipes.

When deciding to control the heating of the batteries, taps or thermostatic devices are purchased. Some ready-made designs are immediately equipped with built-in thermostats.

The required number of pipes for the supply, the complete set of connecting parts (fittings) depend on the options for connecting to the heating system and are found out after the batteries are fixed in place. Connection methods "diagonally", "on the side" or "bottom on both sides" are determined at the stage of calculating the thermal power of the installed

One of the many advantages of individual private housing is a heating network that is not tied to CHPPs or boiler houses, does not depend on the start and end dates of the general heating season, and does not experience all the delights of intermittent pressure in the network. heating installation is carried out at the request of the owner. He also decides which radiators are best for installation in a private house.

Choosing a radiator design

The parameters of the local heating system are an important characteristic when choosing heating. The private house system has the following advantages:

operated at favorable conditions and little pressure
the quality of the coolant is much better than in multi-storey building systems;
there are no pressure surges, there is no threat of water hammer.

With such characteristics, the choice of radiator models is quite wide. When buying batteries, it is worth emphasizing a high efficiency with the right ratio of price and quality. Devices made of any material are suitable for the home system.

Consider different battery designs:

Panel and sectional radiators are often the most inexpensive. With good heat dissipation, they have a compact size. Can be installed in a heating system different schemes connections.

Tubular batteries are more expensive than previous options, but technical specifications approximately the same. The higher price is due to the more stylish design. They are also handy for drying clothes.

Varieties of radiators according to the material of manufacture

Various batteries are suitable for installation in the private sector. Consider the features of each type.

Aluminum

Widespread use in private homes. Have a stylish modern design as well as good heat output. They heat up quickly when plugged in and cool down quickly when disconnected. The price range is different and depends on the manufacturer. The most expensive and high quality are made by companies in Italy. Russian counterparts slightly inferior in operation. Their cost is much lower.

Cast iron

Such radiators are resistant to wear and corrosion, since the inner surface is covered with a composition that prevents the destruction of batteries from contact with water. Can withstand high temperatures and pressure surges in the system. They heat up for a long time and give off heat for a long time when turned off. Such devices require annual cleaning.

Bimetallic

They successfully combine such qualities as: the strength of cast iron and the spectacular heat dissipation of aluminum. They have good resistance to pressure surges, are not subject to corrosion. Like aluminum counterparts, they are in demand due to their characteristics, but the high price often scares off buyers.

Steel

Such radiators are characterized by high heat transfer and original design. Stainless steel models are expensive. Cheaper designs are prone to corrosion.

Where are radiators installed?

Choosing a place in a private house for installing radiators, you need to proceed from the presence of windows. In ordinary rooms, batteries are usually placed under the windowsill.

Otherwise, the flow of cold air will descend along the wall and spread over the entire surface of the floor. An obstacle to this will be the installation of radiators below the window sills. For better protection from the cold, according to the norms of SNIPA, the battery should occupy at least 70% of the width of the window.

Important! A powerful radiator of the wrong size will not give the desired level of heating of the room. Cold air will "drain" to the floor on the side of the battery. Condensation may form on the walls where warm and cold flows come into contact. This will lead to dampness. And the windows themselves will fog up.

When installing the battery under the window, make sure that the window sill does not completely cover the radiator. This can reduce the density of the warm air going in and reduce its efficiency. With hot radiators and the presence of small children, you can cover the heating devices with special screens.

For private houses located in areas with a cold climate, radiators are mounted next to the door. The place is chosen closer to the entrance. Access to radiators must always be free.

Wiring diagrams

The method of installing heating radiators in a private house depends on: the efficiency of the entire structure, possible losses of heat energy.

The following schemes for connecting pipes and batteries will be more successful:

Diagonal pattern. It is considered the most efficient option with maximum efficiency. The coolant is supplied from the upper pipe on one side of the battery, and the return is located at the bottom on the other. The scheme got its name because of the diagonal arrangement of the connection points. In this case, the coolant is more evenly distributed, moving from top to bottom, filling the entire cavity of the radiator.
One-sided or side scheme. With this option, the branch pipe with the coolant supply is located at the top, and with the return from below, and only on one side of the radiator. Heat is not always distributed evenly, the first few sections are hotter. This scheme works well in private homes with a small area. But it is possible to increase the effectiveness of such a connection if you install a circular pump.
Lower and saddle schemes. Such methods are convenient for pipes hidden under skirting boards. In the first connection option, the input and output occurs at one point. With a saddle connection, the inlet and outlet pipes are located below from different sides of the battery. With external aesthetics of these methods, they have a fairly large percentage of heat loss (almost 15%).

We select the necessary components

For the upcoming work, it is necessary to prepare tools. From the shut-off and connecting fittings we purchase taps, valves, valves, thermostats. For installation, adapters are needed to connect parts of different diameters: couplings, spurs. To fix the devices on the wall, brackets and corners are bought. Bypasses are also required (jumpers in the form of pipe sections), which are installed between two pipeline lines. It is necessary to check in advance the presence of all elements in the composition, so that during installation it is not necessary to search for missing parts.

When installing batteries, the possibility of hiding the pipes of the heating system under wall coverings is also taken into account. If there is a sheathing with decorative plastic or drywall, then packing the load-bearing parts of the heating system in them will increase the aesthetic appearance of the room. The ends of the pipes with existing threads are brought out. This is done so that during subsequent installations of radiators it is not necessary to spoil the wall covering. The necessary parts for installation are selected taking into account the diameter of the thread.

Modern methods of connecting pipes include both welding and threaded assembly. Both options do not affect battery life or warm-up levels, but they differ in several ways. For example, welding seams are more reliable, while threads are afraid of mechanical loads and vibrations. In addition, in old houses it is often impossible to make threads on pipes. The way out is welding.

But in new houses they put pipes from modern materials, such as: polypropylene, metal-plastic. Welding is no longer used to connect them.

Marking the wall for brackets

When mounting a heating system in a private house with natural circulation, pipelines are located at an angle of at least 6 ° to the direction in which the coolant flows. Failure to do so may result in air bubbles and air pockets.

We apply markings to the location of the future radiator for installing holders.

Do not forget! The radiator must not be hung close to the wall. The efficiency of such an installation will be low. There should be a space of 5-10 cm between the surfaces. The battery is mounted from the floor at a distance of 10-12 cm and from the window sill - 8-10 cm.

Marking for the future heating device is carried out strictly according to the level. With a pencil, mark the location of the brackets. They are mounted in such a way as to be in the gaps between the sections of the radiator. And we select the brackets themselves in accordance with the purchased batteries, their weight and dimensions.

Having marked the necessary points, holes of the required diameter are drilled for fastenings. It remains to fix the dowels with a hammer and fix the brackets with self-tapping screws. There are special battery mounts that are threaded and screwed directly into the dowel.

How many brackets do you need for a particular battery? The seller in the store can help with this question. building materials. Usually, 3 mounts are purchased for a device in six sections: two are installed at the top, one at the bottom.

To reduce heat loss, a layer of foil or a thin heat insulator with a foil surface is fixed on the wall. But between it and the radiator, it is imperative to leave a gap of at least 2-3 cm. Such a simple design will make the heat transfer from the heater somewhat more efficient.

Calculation of the required radiator power

Having chosen the brand of batteries, it is worth calculating the power for specific rooms. There are complex formulas by which you can calculate how much heat energy is required to heat the area of a particular room. But you can estimate approximately: for heating 1 m³ modern home need 20 watts. Having calculated the volume of the room, we multiply the obtained value by 20 and divide by the power of one section of the battery. What happened in the end is the required number of sections in a particular room. If there are old windows on wooden frames, 15% is added to the indicator.

To replace and install all radiators, the heating system is completely blocked both in private and in apartment building. The water remaining in the pipes is drained. And its residues are pumped out with a pump.

Radiator Assembly

Before mounting the radiator, it must be assembled. Detach part from threaded connection and wrap this place with winding. For this, tow is used with oil paint or more modern version- sealing paste that can withstand high temperatures. A special fum tape is also used to help seal the pipe joints.

Before winding on the thread, apply a wide layer of paste and distribute the composition at the junction. A prepared strip of tow is wrapped around the pipe in the direction of the thread.

Next, we put on the nut from the tap on the part with tow and carefully screw the entire structure into the battery plug. We do this first by hand, and then we tighten it with a key. In the same way, we mount Mayevsky's taps and plugs on inactive pipes.

Advice! Instead of windings from tow, you can use standard gaskets.

Mounting and installation

We will draw up a step-by-step plan for all work on installing batteries in a private house.

Marking and installation of fasteners.
Mounting of all components on the battery.
Mandatory installation of an air vent. It can be either automatic or manual. This device is screwed into the adapter and installed opposite the place where the pipe with the coolant supply is connected.
If the diameters of the water supply and discharge pipes do not match with the radiator pipes, adapters are used. They are included in the standard connection kit.
Installation of regulating and locking devices. Experts advise that it is imperative to install ball valves that help block the flow of coolant to a specific radiator in case it is repaired without stopping the entire system.
Mounting radiators on brackets.
Connection of pipes with the supply and removal of coolant to the radiator, depending on the selected scheme. The choice of method (using welding, threading, crimping) depends on the material of the pipes and the fittings used.
Checking the flow of coolant into the system or pressure testing. To turn on the supply of coolant to the heating system of a private house, the valves must be opened slowly. Sharp jerks and a full turn of the tap will lead to the destruction of the heating system, rupture of the connecting fittings.

Do not forget! Radiators are sold in packaging film. Do not remove it during installation until the end of installation work. Then you do not have to clean the batteries from pollution. Only the joints with pipes are released from the film.