How to lay laminate with your own hands step by step instructions. How to lay laminate with your own hands - step by step instructions with a photo. Installation of panels in a locking way

Economic benefits laminate flooring are not only highly affordable price. Significantly reduce costs can also be due to self-laying. The developers of the finishing material diligently "polished" its design, trying to alleviate the fate of builders and inexperienced performers, and succeeded in achieving the goal. The technology is extremely simple, but requires home master knowledge of a number of nuances. Before proceeding with the flooring, you should find out how to properly lay the laminate, so that your own work will please you with a presentable look and long service life.

Selecting a panel layout

Success at the finish line in the field of finishing will ensure an important component of any work - design. We are not talking about a professionally designed floor project with scrupulous calculations, but about a simple drawing with the dimensions of the room to be equipped. It will help to present the final picture and choose the optimal layout of planks that imitate expensive walnut, birch or oak boards. We will start from the location of the sources daylight, that is, from windows, since this factor is considered the main one.

In relation to window openings, laminate can be laid:

• perpendicularly, due to which the direction of the long butt joints between the boards will coincide with the direction of the sun's rays, and the joints will become almost invisible;
• in parallel, emphasizing the presence of seams due to the resulting shadow;
• diagonally or at any priority, according to the owners, angle.

In general, laminated panels can be laid in 50 different ways if they are edged with universal locks that allow you to combine the end sides of the panels with the longitudinal counterparts and vice versa. However, there are doubts that a novice finisher will immediately take on a coating with an impressive cost, and for mastering a rather complex laying method. Therefore, we will consider the most common version of laminated planks with Lock-latches at the ends and Click-locks along the equity lines.

Most buyers of the most popular material prefer the first type of arrangement of laminated panels for understandable reasons. After all, it gives the impression of a monolithic floor without seams. The second type of direction is chosen if there is a desire to visually expand a narrow, elongated room. The third method is used if you want to optically expand small dimensions. A prerequisite for diagonal styling may be a non-standard configuration of the room or the idea of ​​​​dividing into functional sectors.

It is no coincidence that we started with the location. It depends on him the amount of material required for the arrangement. You need to decide at the start how to lay the laminate in order to purchase:

• for parallel and perpendicular installation of panels 5-7% more material;
• for a diagonal and angled version requiring multiple cuts in laminated boards, with a margin of 15%.

On the pack, the manufacturer indicates the quadrature covered by the planks in it. The material must be purchased taking into account the pre-calculated area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room and with an appropriate margin.

It is necessary to plan in advance the laying of laminate boards for the following reasons:

• Laminated planks will need to be cut, as the length of the panels in extremely rare cases is a multiple of the size of the room. In addition, it is necessary to displace the end joints so that the result is similar brickwork. It is unacceptable that the length of the section of the panel used to complement the row be less than 30 cm. True, there are manufacturers that allow 20 cm to be used as an insert.
• The multiplicity of the width of the panels to the size of the room can also be safely attributed to the category of pleasant, but rare accidents. The last row in most cases is made up of planks sawn along. According to technological requirements, its width cannot be equal to or narrower than 5 cm. However, if such a situation arises, it will be necessary to increase the width of the last row by reducing the same size of the first strip. That is, both extreme strips of the laminated floor will have to be sawn along the long edge. It is desirable to evenly distribute the covered distance for symmetry.

Offset end seams - required condition reliable connection. Independent craftsmen, experienced finishers are advised to retreat from the end line of the previous row by at least 1/3 of the length of the board. We managed to find out that in order to get a “brick” or “chessboard” order in the layout of the panels, the boards of the laminated floor will not only have to be sawn, but also alternate rows, starting with a full length and with a panel divided into parts.

You can alternate symmetrically and without observing these rules of geometry:

• the symmetrical scheme of laying the slabs repeats the “pattern” of the floor most often through one, less often through two lanes;
• an asymmetric scheme does not force the master to adhere to any sequence at all, the offset is formed spontaneously by setting the trimming of the last board in the first row to the beginning of the second and then by analogy.

Laying without symmetry is considered the most economical and simple. However, the master should not forget that there should be no inserts less than 30 cm in the coating he creates. Therefore, it is still necessary to draw and calculate the priority size of the offset. If the drawing reveals a segment that does not meet the technological requirements, it is better to reduce the length of the first plank of the second row.

Note. A gap must be left around the perimeter of the floor to be laid to allow the laminate to change dimensions slightly without creating billowing bumps and without damaging the locks.

When planning, keep in mind that laminate flooring expands and contracts with temperature changes. It is believed that 1 m² of coverage is increased by an average temperature movement of 1.5 mm. Taking into account the average value, depending on the size of the room, the installers leave a compensation indent, which allows the coating to lengthen and shorten, from 0.8 to 1.5 cm.

Preparing for a laminate floor

Both the material itself and the rough basis for its installation are to be prepared. The base needs to be repaired and leveled:

• by grinding;
• pouring cement or polymer screed;
• plywood or GVLV flooring on point supports or logs.

As a result of leveling, the height level differences within a 2 m² floor area should not exceed 2 mm. Before work, the rough base is carefully vacuumed so that due to grains of sand and specks that accidentally fall into the lock joints, the panels do not make straining creaking sounds.

Laminate flooring cannot be laid on the day of its purchase, it must be given the opportunity to "get used" to the surrounding conditions. Two days should be allocated for the adaptation of the coating. Then we will release the panels from packaging, sort them by shade, if there are some “disagreements” in color. During the construction process, slabs that differ in tone will be evenly distributed so that there are no too large sections of different colors.

Note. The laminated coating should acclimatize at max air humidity 60%, min limit 50%. The optimal temperature for addiction is 18º Celsius.

During the adaptation period, the panels must be laid horizontally, stacked in the center of the room intended for decoration, so that the normal course of adaptation is not affected by the humidity of the walls.

The sequence of actions of the laminate stacker

It remains to figure out how to properly put a laminate on the prepared floor with your own hands, and proceed to implement the idea.

General order of the flooring process

Laminate flooring will be as follows:

• We completely cover the concrete base with strips of polyethylene film 200 microns thick. It will protect planks made from moisture-sensitive components from water released by the base. Wooden subfloors do not need waterproofing. We lay the strips with an overlap of about 20 cm, fasten them pointwise with adhesive tape for the convenience of further work.
• We lay the substrate of XPS, polyethylene foam or cork. Since the thickness of the substrate is from 2 mm or more, it must be laid end-to-end so that there are no thickenings. Mats or strips of the substrate are also attached with adhesive tape. It is desirable that the components of the multilayer floor system are laid "in a cross" with the previous and subsequent layers. It is recommended to place the underlay strips across the laying direction of the covering panels. This means that the insulating polyethylene for the concrete subfloor is laid perpendicular to the substrate, but in the direction of laying the laminate.
• We assemble the starting row of laminated boards, combining the end grooves with the end tongues in the manner indicated by the manufacturer. For a perfect fit, tap the attached panels on the opposite side. rubber mallet or with an ordinary hammer, but through a damper bar or a piece of laminate, so as not to break the locking system.
• Without deviating from the technological course and from the selected layout scheme, we form the second row.
• We connect both assembled rows. Together with an assistant, we insert the tongue of the second row at the angle indicated by the manufacturer into the groove of the first strip. Gradually lowering it down, pressing it until it clicks with a characteristic clicking sound.
• We expose the assembled part of the floor to the wall, placing expansion wedges with a thickness equal to the expansion gap between it and the wall. You can buy these spacers or make your own from laminate scraps. We also put wedges from the ends.
• We form and rally the third row with the assembled part of the floor. We act in the same way until the last row, not forgetting about the spacers.
• To form the extreme strip, we measure each panel separately, applying the part turned upside down to the installation site. Piecemeal measurements will help to avoid deviations associated with the unevenness of the walls, traditional for domestic construction. Not forgetting about the deformation indent, we draw a line on the wrong side with a pencil. We'll cut off on it.
• To attach and adjust the panels of the extreme row, we use a bracket. Craftsmen, who are looking for their own ways, how it is more convenient and cheaper to lay a laminate on the floor with their own hands, use a hammer or a nail puller instead of a clamp-clamp.

Laying near pipes, radiators, doors

In the process of laying a laminate floor, there are specific moments, such as laying panels around pipes crossing the ceiling, designing a doorway and inserting slats under low-mounted radiators:

• If the heating battery prevents the board placed under it from snapping into place, cut off part of the ridge and fasten the panel with glue.
• To install the coating around the pipes on the panel, we draw their location with maximum accuracy, then we drill holes, the diameter of which should be greater than the diameter of the pipes. Next, we cut off a drilled bar along the diagonal line parallel to the end and lay its main part in the usual way, and put the insert that goes behind the pipe on glue. The remaining gaps are masked with sealant or plastic lining.
• We begin the arrangement of the doorway with sawing the jambs to the thickness of the laid coating - a laminate with a substrate. In general, with a door frame in the opening, it is advised to trim the jambs before starting work so as not to pollute the floor and locks of the planks with dust and sawdust. Then you need to accurately measure and draw the actual configuration on the panels laid next to the jambs. We take into account that there should be a gap between the wall and the plates, but this indent must be closed with a box, that is, bring the board almost tightly under the jamb beam.

AT doorway with a threshold, we will attach the boundary line to it, without a threshold, to the line located under the closed canvas. By the way, the canvas must also be “shortened”, but the height of the plastic or aluminum transitional profile that masks the seam must also be added to the height of the coating. Similar end profiles close the expansion joints dividing the laminate floor into segments if the covered area exceeds 10.0 m in length and 8.0 m in width.

Note. The plinth installed at the end of the flooring is attached to the walls, not to the floor.

Despite the presence of some features, the process of laying a laminate floor cannot be called complicated. All the moments that arise with independent stackers are thoroughly thought out by the manufacturers of the material. It remains only to make an effort and show patience.

To date, laminate has a strong position in the market, as the most popular flooring.
Today we will learn how to lay a laminate, what tools are needed to complete this task.

Laminate is increasingly found not only in ordinary apartments, but also in country houses, cottages, public buildings. Why is he so attractive? The simplicity of masonry and the work performed, because even a novice master can handle this material. So, let's look at how to properly lay the laminate with your own hands.

How to properly install laminate flooring. Before laying laminate flooring, you need to prepare the flooring.

Floor preparation

To begin with, the master needs to prepare the floor surface, because with any irregularities, differences and roughness, the masonry will not go quite smoothly, and roughly speaking, we can ruin the final result.

Let's consider some rules: let's measure how even our floor is at a normal level, if there are visible irregularities, you will need to use a grinder (we are talking about wood flooring). Also, special attention should be paid to the board, if it is normal, we get to work, otherwise we replace it.

Preparing the room for proper laminate flooring installation

If the surface of your home is concrete, we work in a similar way: we measure the irregularities, level them by making new screeds, or use a leveler floor coverings(floor leveler).

Substrate for laminate

The next step will be forgiving the waterproofing material and the substrate. First you need to lay a waterproofing layer, they are increasingly resorting to ordinary polyethylene, the priority is price and availability. When growing a film on the floor surface, please note that the wall allowances are at least 20 cm.

waterproofing material - substrate under the laminate

An overlap between the sheets themselves is possible, approximately 15 cm. After connecting the polyethylene with adhesive tape, the master lays the substrate. As you can see, there are no particular difficulties, you are required to be attentive and accurate. Foamed polyethylene serves as a substrate, it is laid in the same way as a film - gluing, pieces together, with adhesive tape.

Do-it-yourself laminate laying rules

After purchasing building materials, do not rush to get to work. After a day, the laminate and other auxiliary material will adapt to the temperature and atmospheric indicators of your apartment, and only after that they will acquire a certain humidity, flexibility and length, and after that you can start laying it on the floor.

It is also better to stock up on a certain set of tools in advance:

• roulette,
• pencil or marker
• jigsaw (saw),
• a hammer,
• stationery knife or scissors,
• wooden plank, about 20 cm long (for fitting panels).

It is easier to do the work with a jigsaw, because sawing by hand is a very time-consuming process.

Basic tools for laying laminate flooring

Laying laminate according to technology

After the master has completed the preparation for the direct laying of the material (laid the substrate and the plastic film), we proceed to the following: we start work from a more suitable angle for us. But, it should be remembered that the laying of the laminate is carried out purely from left to right and nothing more!

Another important point in correct styling: we take into account the angle of incidence of the sun's beam on the laminate. Therefore, the process of laying the laminate is carried out along sunlight, this will ensure the invisibility of the joints between the panels.

It is necessary to take into account the angle of incidence of the sun's beam on the laminate

It is interesting that the laminate is very sensitive to changes in atmospheric indicators (temperature, air humidity). Depending on this, it can either shrink or, on the contrary, expand, this should also be taken into account. To do this, when laying, gaps are left ( laminate wall about 8-10 mm) and install special jumpers (pegs).

Also important rule laying laminate is the correct calculation of the rows, but if the last row has a width less than usual, then cut the first and last row so that their width matches.

The first row is usually laid with spikes against the wall, cutting them with a saw or a jigsaw. Special spacer pegs are also installed (approximate thickness 8-10 mm). The ends of the panels are installed and latched with a locking connection from a narrow side.

• We recommend reading - Pros and cons

The spikes of the next laminate are inserted into the groove of the previous one with a slight slope, and the workpiece itself is pressed tightly to the floor.

When laying the next rows, it is necessary to provide for a shift of 25-30 cm, file a certain length with a jigsaw. Laying the remaining rows is done by analogy with 1-2 rows, alternating and shifting them in the above order. Fix everything with a hammer and a wooden block.

To make the panel stronger and better fixed, it is possible to use a clamp in the last row. To avoid distortions and uneven masonry, it is necessary to fit all the panels of the row close to each other.

There are different types of laminates

Laminate with locks "lok" and "click" is actually a kind of "tongue". The difference is only in the principle of their fixation.

Types of laminate locks

Laminate flooring with click lock

Panels with this type of lock are installed at an angle (with an inclination), then they are pressed against the floor and knocked out with a wooden block, using a hammer.

Laminate with "lock" lock

The panel with a “lock” lock is installed in the same way, with a smaller slope, also hammering with a wooden beam.

During the laying of the laminate, the question may arise: how to lay the laminate correctly if there are pipes or protruding walls in the room? It is possible that there will be a heating riser in your room, then the laying of the laminate is carried out around the pipe.

The panel is applied to the pipe and the points of contact with the pipe are marked, then. Next, the distance from the center of the pipe to the wall is measured and everything is transferred to the panel. Thus, at the intersection of the lines marked by us, holes are drilled (larger than the diameter of the pipe, by about 2-3 mm), the smaller part of the panel is removed, and the larger part is laid and fixed with a hammer and a wooden block.

The cut off piece of the panel is lubricated from the end with a special adhesive, then it is led behind the pipe and applied to a large part of the panel, and the gaps that have formed can be masked with plugs.

In places where the laminate comes into contact with the door frame, it is laid as follows: flush with the doorway, taking into account the fact that the height of the cutout should not be more - less than the thickness of the laminate itself. The panel is cut so that it partially or completely goes under the threshold door frame, the final step will be fixing with a clamp. For a more aesthetic appearance of the threshold itself and the absence of drops, flaws in it, it is necessary to use a special adhesive (for thresholds).

How to lay laminate flooring video

We offer you to look at an example of how to lay a laminate correctly. Indeed, its service life to its owner will depend on the correct laying of the laminate.

Laminate repair after damage

It would be appropriate to mention the prevention of damage and the repair of laminate flooring.

Usually laminate is resistant to wear, but there are no eternal building materials. Soon, various chips, scratches, cracks or swelling may appear on it. If the laminate laying technology has been violated, then the likelihood of defects increases.

We restore the laminate with our own hands

1. Elimination of scratches. It happens that when moving furniture, we accidentally scratched the laminate or dropped something heavy on the floor, leaving a mark. Do not be upset because everything can be fixed and repaired. If the scratches or chips are too large, it is necessary to replace the panel with a new one.
2. If you want to avoid scratches, resort to special felt pads (stickers) that are fixed to the legs of furniture (sofas, walls, stools), you can also put various rugs that will help save your floor.
3. Clean your shoes before stepping on the laminate, because the sole can stick to, for example, grains of sand and pebbles, which also contribute to scratches and chips on the laminate.
4. Laminate flooring should be cleaned with special detergents recommended for these purposes, otherwise the coating may be damaged (when using low-quality detergents, stains, stains may appear).
5. You can buy a laminate repair kit, but before you get started, make sure it can be repaired, otherwise you will have to replace the panel with a new one.
6. There are special assistants in removing scratches: wax crayons (for minor defects), putty (for more severe damage). It is necessary to take into account the color of the laminate with the color of your putty, they should be identical or more similar. Sealing scratches with wax crayons will take you no more than 15 minutes of your time. Wax crayons can be purchased at any hardware store or at construction sites, as well as online stores, if you do not know what exactly you need, contact the sellers with a question about scratches on the laminate.

First you need to clean the place of the scratch with a vacuum cleaner, then cover it with wax crayon, removing excess wax with a dry soft cloth, polish the place minor repairs, all the problem is fixed. If the scratch or chip is deeper, you need to apply a special putty.

• We recommend reading -

To repair scratches with putty, take a piece of your laminate with you as a sample and go to the hardware store together, it will be easier to match the color of the putty, remember, the quality of the putty plays a huge role, especially if the chips or scratches are too deep.

First, practice on the remaining piece, and only then proceed to fill in the defect on your coating. To do this, take a special spatula and a piece of soft, dry cloth. Fill the chip with scratch paste, wipe the excess with a rag (soft cloth), leave the repair area to dry for at least 2 hours. After the filling has dried, polish it with not too rough movements.

The next entry Installation of underfloor heating - comfort and savings

Installation of laminate flooring does not require special knowledge, and therefore everyone can do it. A well-thought-out system of locks, ease of cutting and laying lamellas makes it possible to independently make a comfortable floor in an apartment in a few hours. In order to install the laminate with your own hands without difficulty, you first need to study the technology of each process and the sequence of stages.

Laminate flooring has different strength, water resistance, color and texture, differs in installation method and price. In order for new floors to serve for a long time and with high quality, special attention should be paid to the choice of laminate. Coating class 21, 22 and 23 is intended for residential premises, 31 and 32 for commercial. The higher the grade, the stronger the material. The optimal thickness for laminate is 7-9 mm. Thicker lamellas have the same service life, but are more expensive.

The level of moisture resistance and sound absorption must be indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer. An important factor is the method of joining the panels: it can be glued and locking. The first option makes it possible to reliably seal the joints with waterproof glue, moreover, such panels are cheaper. Laminate with a locking method of fastening is more expensive, but has its own advantages. It is very easy to lay, if necessary, you can easily replace any of the slats.

In addition to the laminate, you will need to purchase a substrate. It protects the coating from damage in contact with the subfloor, muffles sounds, retains heat. Foamed polyethylene and natural cork are considered the most popular materials for the substrate.

The polyethylene substrate has a low cost, is not afraid of moisture, but wears out too quickly. The cork substrate is durable, strong, has high heat-insulating properties, but is completely unsuitable for rooms with high humidity.

Preparation of the concrete base

You can mount the laminate on a concrete and wooden base. So that the coating does not creak and does not deform, the subfloor must be perfectly flat. The allowable height difference is 2 mm per square meter area.

In preparation you will need:

• cement-sand mixture;
• building level;
• rule;
• primer;
• waterproofing film;
• scotch.

To begin with, the base is cleaned of dust and its integrity is checked. If the surface is too uneven, covered with cracks, it is recommended to make a new screed, as the alignment of individual defects will take a long time. If there are no large cracks and deep potholes, the existing irregularities are closed cement mortar, and the protruding areas are cleaned off. Be sure to check the horizontal level of the subfloor using a level or rule.

A clean, even base is primed and then covered with a plastic film or a special membrane for waterproofing. The film is overlapped, reinforcing the seams with adhesive tape. It is very important that there are no wrinkles or other thickenings on the film, which, after laying the coating, will lead to punching of the substrate.

Wooden base preparation

When laying the coating on a wooden floor, the base must also be properly prepared. It is impossible to carry out installation if the floor boards have dried out or loosened, there are gaps, rotten areas.

For preparation you will need:

• moisture resistant plywood 15 mm;
• antiseptic primer;
• screws or nails;
• a hammer;
• screwdriver;
• level.

Torn boards are nailed to the joists, boards with mold stains or chipped places are replaced with new ones. The cracks are sealed with a sealant, the base is checked by a level or a rule, and carefully primed with an antiseptic composition. Waterproof plywood is laid on top and fixed to the base with nails or self-tapping screws. If the height differences are more than 2 mm per square meter, the surface is leveled by placing wooden blocks of different thicknesses under the plywood.

Laying panels with glue

This installation method cannot be used if a "warm floor" system is installed. Also, you can not use PVA glue, which dissolves with water and cannot provide the coating with proper tightness. Before installing the coating on the floor, the laminate should be kept in a room at a temperature of 18-20 degrees for at least 2 days. The rough base is covered with a cork or polyethylene substrate, laying the material end-to-end and gluing the seams with tape. If the panels have their own soundproofing substrate, it is not necessary to lay polyethylene foam on the base.

Step 1. Mounting the first row

According to the instructions on the package, the glue is diluted and allowed to brew. The first lamella is turned with a groove towards the wall, then glue is applied along the entire length of the recess, capturing a short cut of the lamella. Apply to the floor, insert spacer wedges between the panel and the wall surface and press. They take the second board, glue the upper edge of the end groove with glue and connect the tongues. Excess glue is wiped off immediately, preventing drying. If necessary, the panels are lightly knocked out with a wooden block with a hammer. The extreme lamella in the row is cut with an electric jigsaw to the desired length.

Step 2. Mounting the second row

The next row is always laid with the joints offset by a certain distance. Most often this is half the length of the panel. Starting the installation of the second row, the first panel is cut in half with a jigsaw, the side cut is covered with glue and applied to the lamella of the first row. The next fragment is first connected to the first row, slightly shifting it along the length, then it is moved to the adjacent panel and the ends are fixed with tongues. The rest of the boards are laid in the same way. After the first three rows, work is suspended for 1.5-2 hours so that the glue sets well.

Step 3. Laying around the heating pipes

If heating or sewer pipes are installed in the floor, you need to attach a piece of paper to them and trace the fit contours with a pencil. According to the template made, cutouts are made in the panels, after which the sections are smeared with glue and pressed to the surface. Spacer wedges should be inserted between the pipes and the laminate. The extreme row of panels is mounted with a crowbar, carefully prying off the edges of the boards. At the end, the wedges are taken out, and the gaps around the perimeter of the room are closed with skirting boards.

Installation of panels in a locking way

When laying panels in a locking manner, the material must also lie in the room for at least 2 days. At this time, the floor is covered with a cork or polyethylene substrate, the adjacent strips of which are laid end-to-end. To prevent the insulation from moving during the installation of the laminate, as well as to seal the coating, the seams are glued with adhesive tape. The sealant should go onto the walls around the entire perimeter by 2-3 cm.

During the installation process you will need:

Step 1. Mounting the first row

Mount the panels start from the corner, placing them perpendicular to the window. Spacer pegs are attached between both walls and the panel so that there is a gap of 1 cm. The second board is applied to the end of the first, holding it at a slight slope, and the grooves are carefully connected. At the end of the row, if necessary, the panel is cut off and the missing fragment is fixed.

Step 2. Mounting the second row

A new row of laminate is laid with offset joints. If a segment of at least 30 cm long remains from the previous row, laying starts from it, but if the fragment is too short, a new board should be cut. The panels of the second row are laid out along the first and connected to each other at the ends, and then the resulting block is attached to the first row with a continuous strip and snapped into place. Where the locks are not closed tightly, a bar is applied to the board and lightly corrected with a hammer. In places where the walls bend and around pipelines, holes are cut out in the lamellas according to the template.

Many people prefer to lay the laminate not parallel to the walls, but diagonally, under the parquet, using panels of different shades. Diagonal laying will require an increase in material consumption by about 7%, a little more for parquet, since many boards will have to be cut in a pattern.

To lay out the panels diagonally, from the corner you need to measure the same distance on both walls and put marks with a pencil. Then, with the help of carnations, a thick fishing line is pulled between the marks and fixed. This will help to more accurately determine the location of the lamellae. The first strip is cut from both sides at an angle of 45 degrees and inserted between the walls so that there is a gap of about 1 cm. Spacer wedges are fixed in the gaps.

The second row should consist of two fragments that join exactly in the middle of the first board. For these fragments, only one edge is cut at an angle, making sure that there is a gap at the wall all the time. For convenience, you can fill the central part of the floor, and then cut the lamellas and lay the side sections. After filling the entire area, the wedges are removed, the excess sealant is cut off with a sharp knife, and the skirting boards are installed.

The option of laying under parquet looks original: fragments of panels 30 cm long are laid out in the form of a braid or herringbone, alternating vertical and horizontal pieces. If you use a laminate of two shades and shift the joints not by half the length, but by 30 cm in each row, you will get beautiful zigzags. You can lay out large and small squares, mounting alternately rows of vertical and horizontal fragments.

To hide inaccurate cuts around pipelines or joints of adjacent coatings of different thicknesses, special decorative contours and thresholds are used to match the color of the laminate. At curved joints, it is convenient to use flexible thresholds that easily take the desired shape and have a decorative look.

Video - Do-it-yourself laminate flooring

Laminate is a popular hardboard flooring. A variety of decor allows you to choose it for any interior. At first glance, it is indistinguishable from parquet, but the price is several times lower. You can cut costs even more if you lay the lamellas with your own hands. It's not difficult: manufacturers have simplified the technology and made it accessible even to inexperienced users. About what nuances you need to consider and how to achieve the perfect floor, we tell further.

Choosing a layout method

An experienced craftsman will say: the right finish is laid at the design stage. It is not necessary to develop a professional drawing and make an estimate. A schematic representation of the room is enough, which shows where the doors and windows are located. If you present the final picture, it is easier to choose a layout method.

In total, there are over 50 styling options. We will not consider them all: it is unlikely that a finisher without experience will decide to use a complex method. It is enough to choose one of the three basic methods.

• perpendicular to the window: if you arrange the lamellas so that the direction of the connecting seams coincides with the direction of the sun's rays, the connections between them will become invisible;
• parallel to the window: the resulting shadow will emphasize the joints, but the room will seem more spacious;
• diagonally: the way the owners like it.

Usually the first option is chosen. It creates the impression of a monolithic floor. The second method is suitable for a long and narrow room: this way you can stretch it wide. In both cases, the laminate should be taken with a margin of 5-7%. The third method is optimal if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is small or you need to divide it into zones. In this case, the stock of material must be at least 15%.

What kind of flooring can laminate flooring be laid on?

You can lay laminate on any base: concrete, tile, linoleum, etc. The main thing is to prepare it, and if necessary, strengthen it. If desired, you can even lay a new laminate on top of the old one. Of course, provided that the previous coating is in good condition.

Do not lay laminated panels on a wet or uncleaned substrate. It is forbidden to use it in baths and saunas. If you choose a coating for the kitchen, make sure that it is moisture resistant.

Laying on concrete floor

The condition of the concrete base determines how successful the installation will be. It should be:

• smooth, without irregularities. Permissible height difference - 2 mm per square. meter;
• protected from moisture;
• sound and heat insulated.

If the old floor was dismantled, most likely, the base needs to be leveled. Usually it is enough to putty holes or remove ledges. If this is not possible, a new screed will have to be laid.

A traditional screed is suitable - made of concrete or cement. Lay 4-5 weeks: this is how long these coatings dry. To find out if you can start to mount the laminate, place a napkin on the surface. Cover it with tiles, and wait a day. The surface is ready if the napkin remains dry.

Bulk fast-hardening mixes - more modern version. Manufacturers claim that they dry in a few hours. However, we do not recommend rushing to lay the panels. It takes 3-4 days for complete drying.

When the base is leveled, you need to do waterproofing. The easiest way is to overlap a regular film and secure it with tape. The stores also have substrates specially designed for heat, hydro and sound insulation.

If you chose a four-layer laminate, you can do without waterproofing. Its last layer is made of materials that do not allow water to pass through. However, we do not recommend doing this. It is better to play it safe and lay the simplest substrate. So it will be more reliable.

Laminate flooring on wood floor

The lack of a solid floor is a creak. Over time, the nails that hold the boards loosen. Therefore, before laying the laminate, you need to strengthen the base with screws.

First, we consider how many screws are needed. To do this, we find out the number of lags in the room. This is easy to determine: look for nails or cracks in the walls. Then - we consider how many boards cover the floor in width. And finally, we multiply one number by another.

For example, in a room there are 10 logs and 30 boards. We multiply 10 by 30. It will take 300 screws and 20% in reserve.

Screws are hard to drive into wood. It is easier to drill holes 70% of their length, and only then - to pull the boards to the joists. If you have a powerful screwdriver, drilling is not necessary. He can handle the load anyway. Make sure that the boards fit snugly against the lags, otherwise they will loosen when walking.

It is more convenient to level the floor with plywood. It is enough to put the material on the base, and fasten it with the same screws in 15 cm increments. Correct the position of the plywood with a level, and do not forget to leave a gap of 10 mm near the wall.

The base is ready. You can begin to mount the lamellas.

Laying on linoleum

Linoleum is a capricious base. If it is in good condition, it will serve as an insulating lining and provide additional sound insulation. If not, the floor will deform, and the lamellas will bend. Therefore, before laying the laminate, check for defects in linoleum.

The base material must be dry and clean. If there are holes, they are glued flush with scraps of the same linoleum. See that the base is not decrepit. Otherwise, over time, it will swell, and the lamellas will bend. To prevent this, use a substrate with a thickness of 3 mm or more.

An important parameter is humidity. It is impossible to lay laminate on damp linoleum. Checking if the base is suitable for laying is easy. Lay out the polyethylene, press it down with hard objects. If after two days no condensation has formed (drops of water on the film), proceed with the installation.

The substrate is required: it is she who will prevent mechanical damage. Take cork - it is elastic, and will keep the floor smooth even after serious physical impacts.

Surface leveling

Professionals do not advise laying laminate on an uneven base for three reasons:

• the service life of such a floor is less than a year;
• because of constant physical activity locks diverge - this will lead to the destruction of the entire coating;
• when walking, the floor will creak.

To determine if there are bumps, use the level. Measure deviation. If it is more than normal, you can correct the situation with:

• substrates: if the height difference is less than 2 mm per sq. meter;
• base leveling: in other cases.

The easiest way to level the floor is with a self-levelling compound. Attention: this method is only suitable for a concrete base. If the base is wooden, use plywood. How to apply it, we talked about in a separate section.

A set of tools for the preparation of the basic concrete pavement self-leveling compound:

• clean bucket;
• putty knife;
• studded rubber roller;
• drill with a special nozzle designed for stirring. If there is a construction mixer, it will do;
• mixture.

First, remove dirt, dust and debris from the base. Then - dilute the mixture in a bucket. Manufacturers write on the packaging in what proportions to do this. Using a mixer (or drill), mix the contents of the container. We make sure that there are no lumps, and the consistency resembles sour cream.

Pour the mixture onto the floor. Important! You need to start from the highest point of the floor: then it is easier to achieve uniformity. We distribute the composition over the coating with a spatula. We pass the roller in both directions: it will remove air bubbles. We wait until the mixture hardens.

Drying time is indicated on the packaging. However, usually manufacturers write a period after which you can walk on the coating without fear of harming it. We advise you to add a couple more days, and only then proceed with the installation of the laminate. This ensures that the floor will last a long time.

Substrate and insulating layer

The pads are made from different materials- there is an option for any budget. We tell you when you can save and when you have to spend.

jute- it is more expensive than analogues, but the performance characteristics correspond to the price. Absorbs water and removes it. Eco-friendly. To prevent the substrate from rotting and burning, antiprene is added to the composition.

Cork- does not contain synthetic substances, therefore it is chemically neutral. Well cushioned, absorbs noise, retains heat. Suitable for children's and bedrooms. You can’t save on it: if the cork substrate is of poor quality, it will begin to crumble. It is impossible to determine this by eye, but in the first days after laying the laminate will begin to creak, and then it will deform.

Polypropylene- an inexpensive material that hides the unevenness of the base well and is resistant to water. Afraid of a large static load. Due to constant influences, air bubbles burst, and the layer becomes uneven.

Styrofoam- will last a long time if made famous brands- Isoplin, VTM. Withstands high loads, does not pass water, has thermal insulation properties. Cons - prone to burning and is only suitable for a perfectly even base.

Coniferous- based on recycled wood, which is completely safe. The structure is porous: this provides high cushioning. Mounted quickly, and is able to level the base with height differences up to 3 mm. The disadvantage is that it is prone to the spread of mold.

The substrate is laid from the extreme wall, and the sheets of material are cut so that there is a small margin. Rolled layers creep end-to-end. If one side is laminated, it should be on top. The strips are fastened together with adhesive tape.

The material is laid sequentially, and the trajectory must correspond to the direction of the subsequent laying of the laminate sheets. Try not to stand on the coating: it can deform, and this will ruin the lamellas.

How not to:

• lay the substrate close to the wall: there should be a space of 1 cm;
• fasten the material tightly: the insulating layer must “float”;
• use several layers for better heat and sound insulation: this deforms the laminate after installation.

Do-it-yourself laminate laying process

When all the preparatory steps have been completed, the coating has been selected, and the substrate has been laid, you can proceed with the installation of the lamellas. Let's talk about how to properly lay the coating.

Material calculation

• the length of one plank is 0.64 m: we took this data from the packaging. Divide the length of the room by the length of the lamella. It turns out like this: 6 / 0.64 \u003d 9, 375. Round up to 10.
• we do the same with the width: 4 / 0.31 (lamella width) \u003d 12.9. Round up to 13.
• take into account the area connected to the corridor. We consider its length: 1 / 0.64 \u003d 1.56. Width: 0.4/0.31=1.29.
• we count how many slats are needed for the room - we multiply the two obtained values ​​\u200b\u200b(10 * 13), and we get 130. We do the same with the adjacent area (2 * 2 \u003d 4).
• add both numbers. As a result, we will see how many panels are needed to cover the room. 130+4=134.
• there are usually 8 boards in a pack, but it is better to check this information with the seller. To find out the number of packages, we divide 134 by 8. We need 15.5 packages. For reliability, we take 16: this is definitely enough.

What else you need to know when calculating:

• around the perimeter you need to leave an indent of 1 cm: it is needed for depreciation;
• if you plan laying in a direct way, you need a margin of 5-7%;
• if you lay at an angle, the margin will be 10-15%.

Instruments

Before laying the laminate with your own hands, stock up on everything you need. The minimum set includes:

• hammer / mallet: used to fit the planks;
• tape measure with a strong iron tip;
• doboynik: an ordinary wooden block is also suitable. Needed for final padding;
• stationery knife: not required, but it is easier to cut the substrate and open the packages with it;
• wedges: help maintain the gap between the wall and the laminate sheet;
• electric jigsaw: for cutting planks. You can use a regular saw or even a hacksaw;
• metal bracket: for working with the last row;
• soft lead pencil.

Material laying

Let the laminate floor rest at room temperature for 48 hours before laying it. This time is necessary for acclimatization. Then - we begin to mount the lamellas.

The first row is laid from a long wall. It is impossible to knock on the boards so that they are connected. Do this through the bar: then the panels will not be damaged. We cut off the comb, direct the cut side to the wall, but so that there is a gap of 10-15 mm. Attention: it must be less than the width of the plinth. Place the wedges in 40 cm increments: they will not let you go astray.

We collect the first row, we attach the second to it. So we act until we get an even coating over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe floor.

When we reach the last row, we measure how much free space is left. We file the lamellas so that they fit. Then - remove the struts, install skirting boards and thresholds. Ready!

Step-by-step instructions for working in difficult places

Beginners are scared door jambs, pipes, batteries and other communications. Working with such places is more difficult, but in general, the technology remains the same. Planning, marking, laying - if you follow a simple sequence, everything will work out.

Around the pipes

Heating or plumbing pipes are located near the walls: this greatly simplifies installation. First, we make a template on cardboard, mark a hole for the pipe on it, and apply it to a difficult place. We adjust so as to achieve pairing. Do not forget to leave a gap of 2-3 mm so that the laminate can “walk” with temperature changes.

We shift the template to the laminated panel. We cut the hole with a jigsaw, round it with a file. We lay the board as usual, close the gap with a decorative overlay. Ready!

If the pipes are far from the wall, it is more convenient to use another method. We cut the panel with holes across, so that the pipes are exactly in the middle. We fasten the two halves together with building glue. The algorithm can be seen in the diagram below.

In the doorway

In order for the door to close freely, it is necessary that the distance between it and the surface of the laminate is at least 3 mm. It's best to figure this out before you even start laying. We add the thickness of the underlay and the laminated panel, and subtract the resulting number from the distance between the door and the base of the floor. Less than 3 mm left? Then choose one of two ways to solve the problem:

• cut the door. The door leaf is removed and cut to fit the panel. Be careful: follow the dimensions. If you remove the excess, there will be no chance to improve;
• cut laminate. The lamella is cut so that it does not come into contact with the doorway, and a margin of 5 mm is preserved near the walls. This is easier, but the result is less aesthetic.

Skirting board installation

The plinth is installed at the final stage of finishing. Before installation, it must be cut at an angle of 90 °: this will ensure the strength of the connections. You do not need to adjust all the strips at once: it is better to do this during fastening. When one element is fixed, the next one joins with it, and only then is attached.

It is impossible to attach the skirting board to the laminate itself. It is fixed to the wall. How exactly to fix the profile depends on what material it is made of. If you chose the laminated version of MDF, look at the back side - there should be a groove. A special clip is attached to the wall, the profile itself sits on it. The joints are coated with glue. Be careful: if you unsuccessfully try to fix the baseboard several times, the grooves will loosen.

A miter box is used to work in the corners. The profile is inserted with the side closest to the user, and the edge is located at the bottom of the tool. The baguette is then cut at a 45° angle. Hold the skirting firmly while cutting, otherwise the seam will be uneven, and during docking a gap will appear that cannot be repaired.

Before fixing the corner, check whether the elements fit snugly. If everything is done correctly, there will be no gaps.

Video how to lay laminate with your own hands

If the final decision is made to cover the floors in an apartment or a separate room with a laminate, first you should carefully familiarize yourself with the basic rules technological process his styling. First, it is necessary to accurately determine the the type of material that will need to be purchased. Secondly, it is necessary to learn how to lay laminate on the floor in order to really appreciate own strength. The process itself, although it requires increased care and accuracy, still cannot be considered extremely difficult, and calling a team of builders-finishers can be a waste of money. Why not try it yourself?

No matter how much you want to do everything as fast as possible, you should remember the "golden rule" - laying flooring, and laminate - in particular, never tolerates unnecessary haste. Everything will already pass in a fairly short time, but for the floor to really serve for a long time and not cause quick disappointments, without careful pre-training work is simply impossible.

To begin with, a thorough preparation of the floor surface

A good owner will assess the condition of the floor in the room and bring it to the proper look for laying, probably even before going to the store to buy a laminated board. So, the first step is to revise the existing foundation.

The essential advantage of laminate flooring is that it can be laid on almost any subfloor. Of course, the "rough floor" must meet a number of important requirements.

• He must leveled horizontally. Level differences are allowed within no more than 2 mm per 1 linear meter of surface.
• The surface must be even - even the slightest tubercles or pits are unacceptable. Such defects violate the integrity of the laminated coating or subsequently respond with unpleasant squeaks.
• The floor must be durable - no dynamic loads should cause "games" of the surface.

1. If the laminate is planned to be laid out on a concrete base, then it must be carefully repaired. Wide cracks, potholes, and even more so - areas of crumbling or delamination of the surface are unacceptable. If the damage is too extensive, then you will probably have to put the laminate aside for the time being and start updating the screed - with an ordinary concrete mortar or, which, apparently, is more convenient, with a self-leveling fill. It will be possible to return to the laminate flooring only after the floors have gained the desired strength.

pouring the floor

2. Laminate flooring is allowed on old linoleum. At the same time, the coating must necessarily maintain its integrity and evenness - divergencies of welds, wear of linoleum to the base are unacceptable, especially if there is still a violation of the concrete base in these places. The presence of protruding bumps or noticeable pits is not allowed. Sometimes you just have to remove the old linoleum and prepare the base for the laminate in the usual way, as described above.

3. Laminate on a tree can be laid if there are no rotten, creaking boards on the floor, if there are no areas of instability - deflection under the weight of the leg. Such fragments are subject to mandatory replacement with simultaneous amplification of the lag. Stable areas are checked for cracks, dents, etc. - you need to putty, and then level with a common surface with a grinder. Minor level differences between the boards can be removed with a planer.

Many issues will be resolved much easier if you spare no expense to cover the entire base of the floor with plywood, or even better - OSB sheets with a thickness of about 10 ÷ 12 mm. In addition to the required evenness, this measure also provides additional thermal and soundproofing effects. Under the stacked sheets, a waterproofing layer of dense polyethylene film must be laid.

What is required for work

When the laminate is purchased and delivered to the place of laying, it is advised to free it from plastic and cardboard packaging, place it in the room for which it is intended for several days. This will allow you to completely equalize both the humidity and the temperature of the material, and as a result, laying will be easier, and the likelihood of deformation of the laid coating will be eliminated.

While the panels are undergoing an "adaptation course", we do not waste time - we are preparing necessary tools and draw up a plan for future work

• For cutting laminate boards right size you will need a hacksaw with a fine tooth or electric jigsaw. If there are vertical pipe risers in the room, then you can’t do without a jigsaw at all.

  electric jigsaw

• It is clear that at the disposal of the master should be a quality drawing- measuring tool - tape measure, ruler, metal square, marker, etc. .
• A hammer is often required to join the seams of the laminate. It’s good if you have a rubber or wooden one at your disposal. You can also use the usual one, but only with the laying of a special bar - they are in stores, but it will not be difficult to make it yourself. In this case, it will be more convenient to make a groove in the bar for the locking part of the laminate - it cannot be hushed up with too strong a blow.

• Of particular difficulty are often sections along walls or in other hard-to-reach places. To apply the required force to connect the panels, you will need ∫ - shaped lever. It can also be purchased at a hardware store, but it will probably be more profitable to make it yourself from a metal strip for a one-time installation at home, taking into account the height of the lever that is convenient for the master and protrudes upward to transfer the impact force.

You can, if necessary, use a conventional mount, but there is a possibility of damaging the wall at the same time - be sure to lay the stop with a wide piece of wood.

• Prepare in advance required amount wooden spacer wedges, for fixing the laminate at the required (10 ÷ 12 mm) distance from the walls of the room, to compensate for temperature or other expansions.

The entire surface of the floor must be covered with a substrate. It is unacceptable to ignore this - the quality of the laid laminate floor will be low. The substrate is polymeric - made of foamed polyethylene, may have a foil layer (lay out) or be without it. Most often, the substrate is produced in rolls, although a panel version can also be purchased. The most optimal, although not cheap An option would be to use a cork backing.

The material is spread over the entire surface of the floor exclusively end-to-end, without leaving gaps or overlaps. The resulting seams can be fixed to the floor surface with double-sided tape or glued with adhesive tape from above.

Everything, the preparatory activities are almost completed, it remains to think over the scheme of work in order to avoid typical mistakes.

floor underlay

We think over the laying scheme

In order for the laying work to proceed measuredly and quickly, a carefully thought-out and graphically executed scheme should always be in front of the eyes of the home master. What you need to consider in order to avoid those mistakes that often lie in wait for beginners in this business:

• Installation direction. Longitudinal, long joints should be oriented along the direction of the rays of light from its natural source - the window. Otherwise, the joints can stand out strongly on the surface.

• Work is planned from the far, most often - the left corner. The laying is done in order. The panel of the first row parallel to the wall is laid with a groove outward, and the spike is cut off in advance so that a flat end remains.
• If a hand saw or a jigsaw is enough for a cross cut, then for longitudinal cuts it is better to use a manual or stationary circular saw - it will be smoother and faster.
• Each subsequent row should go with an offset (by half the length of the panels, or “along the deck”, by 300 ÷ 400 mm).
• When planning, it must be taken into account that the finish row of laminate panels should not be narrower than 100 mm. If it turns out less, it is worth narrowing the first row a little. Laying is similarly thought out if there are internal corners in the room.
• Particular attention is the places where vertical risers pass. If they cannot be temporarily dismantled, then it is worth considering the scheme in such a way that they fall at the junction of the panels - then cutting a figured hole and installing the cover will not be a problem.
• Although the laminate does not have too much thickness, it can sometimes become an obstacle to the movement of doors. It makes sense to immediately evaluate this and, if necessary, shorten the door tights.

Now, only when everything is ready, you can go directly to the installation.

Features of laying laminated panels of different types

Laminated panels of different models are by no means the same in terms of their interfacing with each other. So, there is an option when the required solidity of the surface is provided by gluing the joints. Panels with locks can also vary - there are two main types of them - "Lock" or "Click". You can also find more complex ones, for example, 5G options, but they are, to one degree or another, a modification of click locks.

Laminate floor installation with click locks

The peculiarity of such a lock connection is that it is made only at a certain angle between the mating panels, the specific value of which can vary significantly for different models. But the essence of this does not change - the mounted panel at the required angle is inserted with a spike into the groove already laid. Then, when it is turned into a single plane, the slots of the lock snap into place with a characteristic sound, providing a very reliable connection. With all this, dismantling the panel is also not difficult - when it is raised to the same angle, it will come out of their engagement.

Schematic diagram of the "Click" lock

• Installation is carried out from the first row. The entire strip is assembled completely, laid along the wall and wedged from it both along the long and along the end side.

Panel mounting with "Click" lock

• The next row is also completely assembled at first - this is the main feature of installation with a similar lock. Of course, this takes into account the displacement of the panels - this has already been mentioned above. Only after the complete assembly of the entire strip of the next row is it connected to the previous one. It can be very difficult to do this on your own, so it's better to work together.

Each row after laying wedged from the walls.

• All subsequent rows of laminate are laid in the same order, to the end of the room.
• Before each assembly of the lock part, the cleanliness of its grooves must be checked - even the smallest fragments of debris or sawdust are not allowed in it.

High-quality laminate with locks does not need to adjust the joints with the help of impact forces - the joints themselves are strong and almost invisible. This advantage determines its greatest popularity among all other types of laminated panels.

How panels with Locks are installed

It seems that such a fastening system is rapidly losing popularity and is gradually being replaced by more modern models. However, such a laminate is relatively inexpensive, and therefore still in demand.

This is how the lock system works

The spikes and grooves of the interlock in this case are located in the same horizontal plane and have peculiar protrusions and grooves for fixing when a certain force is applied. In terms of strength, such joints are significantly inferior to the Click laminate. At the same time, dismantling, if necessary, the panel is quite difficult - very often the spike is deformed or even breaks off.

• The panels of the first row are interconnected along the end side by tapping with a hammer through a wooden or rubber gasket. Wedging is carried out from the walls of the room.

• The installation of the next row begins with the first panel from the wall. Its spike is inserted into the groove of the laid row, tapping ensures a complete connection (usually accompanied by a characteristic sound and is well defined visually). The panel is immediately wedged from the wall surface.

• The next panel will require a consistent application of impact forces from both sides, to connect the lock on both the end and the long side.

Here you will need the mentioned lever, with which you can tap the panel, or you can apply force with a mount.

• Laying continues in this order in order (some masters prefer a “stepped scheme”, but the essence does not change).
• Laying the final row, after careful measurement and cutting to the required size, is also done with a lever.

During operation, the impact force should be controlled - so that the lock works, and so as not to accidentally damage the grooves or spikes of the connection in the places where the forces are applied.

Features of mounting a laminate on glue

Laminate, designed for laying with gluing joints, it has good indicators of strength, solidity, water resistance of the resulting surface. Cons - the work is quite laborious, and dismantling the panels while maintaining their integrity will not work at all. Installation will require glue specially designed for this purpose, and professionals strongly do not recommend simplifying their task by purchasing ordinary PVA.

glue for laminate

There are also spikes and grooves on such panels, but their purpose is only to align the laminate in one plane, and the lock part as such no.

• The laying system itself largely repeats the described technology with locks "Lock" - both the sequence and tapping of the connections are similar. main feature- the grooves before assembly are smeared with glue in the amount determined by the manufacturer of the material.
• Coming to the surface laminate after joining the panels excess glue removed immediately with a clean soft damp cloth.
• When the first 3 rows are laid, a technological break is necessarily made for 2 ÷ 3 hours - this time is necessary for the glue to polymerize it. Further work continues in the same way, with the alternation of laying and pauses.

Shutdown

After laying the last row (in the case of adhesive laminate - after 3 hours), you can remove the expansion wedges around the perimeter of the room. Now it remains to attach the skirting boards (only to the wall, in no case to the laminated surface), and cover the junctions of the laminated panels with other floor coverings with special decorative overlays.

Video: laminate laying master class