How to properly nail a rubber seal to a door. Seals for threaded connections of water pipes - choose the best. What are the doors

The seal for the entrance wooden doors is designed to solve the issue of thermal insulation of residential premises. There are several types of materials designed to seal the gaps formed during the operation of the entrance group.

All seals are produced in the form of tapes with different profiles and widths. For the manufacture of these products use the following materials:

  • rubber;
  • ethylene propylene rubber;
  • polychlorovinide (PVC);
  • foam rubber;
  • silicone.

All elastic seals for wooden entrance doors are called contour, which indicates the features of their installation: along the contour of the door leaf or frame. The most common options are foam-based and PVC tapes. The first have a self-adhesive base, fragile and short-lived. Their main advantage is their low price.

Self-adhesive foam tapes are suitable for filling small gaps formed between the wooden door leaf and the frame. In order to prevent cold air from entering the living room, it is important to choose the right thickness of the tape.

The rubber bands are D-shaped and designed to cover wider gaps: 8-12mm. The manufacturers of these sealing tapes offer these materials in two color solutions: black and white. For warming the entrance group of a dwelling, garage and workshop, any will do.

Ethylene propylene rubber tapes are the most durable of all listed, as they are reinforced with fiberglass threads. The profile of these self-adhesive materials is different: D-, E-, P-, V-shaped, as well as rectangular. Any of these types of tapes are designed to fill gaps with a width of 1-7 mm. Among the advantages are high frost resistance and a wide operating temperature range: from -50°С to +50°С.

fire fighting

Heat-insulating materials of fire-fighting type are used in the construction and glazing of entrance wooden doors, expansion joints. These tapes have a self-adhesive base and are capable of expanding under the influence of high temperatures in a planar direction (only in height) or in three directions at once: in both directions and in height. The task of such materials is to localize the fire in the room in which it originated.

The most popular are two types of fire seals: Palusol and ROKU-strip. The processes of foaming and expansion of these tapes begin at a temperature of 100°C. Seal wooden door possible in three ways:

  • along the perimeter door frame at the points of contact with the door leaf;
  • in grooves front door or boxes;
  • along the contour of a wooden or metal front door.

Threshold

The threshold seal for the door is able to reliably close the gaps through which cold air enters. Distinctive feature of these products is that they are made from more durable materials:

  1. rubber;
  2. thermoplastic elastomer;
  3. ethylpropylene rubber.

All these materials do not lose their properties for a long time. Threshold seals are installed in a gap specially made for this purpose in the end part of the wooden door leaf. First, a plastic or metal profile is inserted inside this slot, then a strip of thermoplastic elastomer or rubber.


A button is located in the side part of the profile, upon contact with the door frame, the heat-insulating material falls out of the gap cavity and reliably covers the space between the floor and the lower part of the door leaf. There should be no gaps between the floor and the rubber gasket. When opening, the seal rises and enters the groove intended for it.

The specifics of the use of seals

All heat and noise insulating materials designed to eliminate gaps in door blocks are easily glued to a wooden base and just as easily removed. This ease of installation and dismantling of the sealing circuit allows you to independently insulate the room without resorting to the help of specialists. Thanks to detailed instructions on the installation of threshold profiles in the lower part of the leaf of a wooden front door, any owner will cope with this task.

Tubular-type materials made of rubber, silicone or rubber are attached to the base with a moisture and frost-resistant sealant or glue. Criteria for choosing seals for the entrance group:

  • E-shaped profile (marking "C" or "K") - to eliminate gaps up to 3 mm;
  • P-shaped (marking "V") - to cover gaps, 3-5 mm wide;
  • D-shaped profile (marking "O") - to eliminate wide gaps, with a width of 5 mm.

How to seal a wooden door

The material that seals the entrance wooden door must be resilient and elastic. If it does not have a self-adhesive backing, installation will require silicone sealant, glue gun or liquid nails. In addition to them, you will need the following materials and tools:

  1. scissors or stationery knife;
  2. White Spirit;
  3. clean dry rag.

Operating procedure

  • Ribbon cutting.
  • Base degreasing.
  • Tape sticker.

Installation and sealing

For correct installation sealant, it is necessary to accurately measure the length of the tapes that will be pasted over the ends of the wooden door leaf. This can be done in two ways:

  1. attaching the tape to the end and cutting it off in the right place;
  2. using a tape measure, having previously measured the length of the butt and measuring the same distance on the tape.

If the gaps are wide, more than 5 mm, sealing materials can not be cut into pieces, but immediately glued to the base. It must be free from dust, dirt and grease and oils. For this purpose, white spirit and a clean, dry rag are used. Self-adhesive seals are attached by pressing them to the wooden sheet and gradually, as they move forward, removing the protective layer. Before mounting materials without an adhesive base, a fixing composition is applied in the right places: silicone sealant or glue. Similarly, the insulation of the interior door leaf is performed.

Door frame mounting

If the wooden door leaf has a relief surface, it is more convenient to perform insulation from the side of the frame. In this case, the door can be removed from the hinges, having previously marked with a pencil the places where the heat-insulating tapes are pasted. Before the beginning installation work all sides of the wooden door frame are cleaned and degreased with white spirit. After that, sealing materials are glued in a convenient way.

In the insulation of a wooden door, the most important thing is to choose the right thickness of the tape. In this case, you can count on high-quality sound and heat insulation.

To provide additional sound insulation, any metal doors require the installation of a seal. How to choose and install a quality seal for metal doors this article will tell.

General concept and functions of a seal for a metal door

Sealant - a fitting element of a metal door. main function sealant is to protect the premises from ingress extraneous sounds. Additional functions seal:

  • protection of the premises from foreign odors;
  • thermal protection - prevention of drafts;

  • sealing - ensuring a snug fit of the door leaf to the door frame.

Consider the basic requirements for a high-quality seal for a metal door:

  • the seal must ensure complete tightness, the door protects the room from extraneous noise, moisture, cold air, fine dust particles or strong odors;
  • the seal ensures reliable and smooth closing of the door;
  • the seal must meet high standards that provide water and air tightness and excellent cushioning properties of a metal door;
  • the seal eliminates the sharp unpleasant sounds that a metal door makes when closing; after installing the seal, the door closes softly and silently;
  • the seal for a metal door must be resistant to sudden changes in temperature in order to avoid hardening or peeling off;
  • the seal should interact well with the door; when closing, there should be no gaps;
  • ensuring fire safety: using a rubber contour to trap cold smoke, using an intumescent layer to fill gaps and prevent the spread of fire.

Varieties of seals for a metal door

Depending on the type of material, the seal is divided into:

  • rubber,
  • silicone,
  • polyurethane,
  • plastic,
  • foam.

The rubber seal for a metal door is characterized by durability and endurance.

Advantages of installing a rubber seal on a metal door:

  • high level of air and moisture resistance;
  • resistance to prolonged exposure to precipitation, temperature changes, ultraviolet;
  • long service life;
  • low cost;
  • no cracking.

Rubber seals are made from oil-resistant, acid-resistant rubber, which has a food or high-tech quality.

Not inferior to rubber and silicone seals, which are great for metal doors. The advantage of a silicone seal is that silicone does not emit harmful substances and ensures the environmental safety of the home. Silicone does not provoke the appearance of allergies, therefore, such seals are installed on metal doors in children's or medical institutions.

The polyurethane sealant is easily attached to the door, as it has a self-adhesive film on one side. Plastic seals are rarely installed on metal doors, as well as foam rubber. Although the cost of these seals is quite low, the quality characteristics do not allow such seals to be used on a metal door for a long time.

In relation to the design and type of fastening, seals are divided into:

  • magnetic seal for metal doors;
  • sealant with additional clamping mechanism;
  • sealant for metal doors self-adhesive.

The magnetic seal appeared not so long ago, but is increasingly used in the manufacture of metal doors from the manufacturer. Magnetic seals are installed on the doors of the refrigerator or freezer. The principle of operation of the seal is based on the attraction of permanent magnets with the help of attraction poles. A triple circuit of a magnetic seal is installed on metal doors. The first two circuits are located directly on the door, and the third - on the door frame. Magnetic seals have a disadvantage: if there is a strong attraction of magnets, it will be difficult for a child or an elderly person to open such a door, and if there are weak magnets, the door will not meet all the requirements for sealing and sound insulation.

It is better to install a magnetic seal on metal doors that do not have decorative elements, but consist of ordinary metal sheets. The magnetic seal has two components: a soft part and a magnetic insert. The soft part is made of thermoplastic elastomer. Advantages of using thermoplastic elastomer:

  • resistance to aging;
  • operating temperature from -65 to +90 °C;
  • after use, the material is recycled.

1. When choosing a self-adhesive seal, be sure to check the expiration date of the adhesive that is applied to one side of the tape.

2. Do not use foam seals for metal doors. Indeed, as a rule, a metal door is used at the entrance to the room and has the greatest load in terms of the number of openings, in this case the foam rubber will deteriorate very quickly.

3. Before giving preference to a certain sealant, carefully study the information about the materials, expiration date and technical features of the sealant.

4. To check the sealing properties of the seal, press the seal a little, if the material recovers quickly, the seal will provide a good seal.

5. When choosing a seal that requires additional bonding, buy a good quality silicone adhesive.

6. Pay attention to the color of the seal, in most cases it is black, brown or white, but there are exceptions and some companies allow you to choose the color individually for the color of the door.

7. When choosing a seal for an entrance metal door, you should not focus on the color variety, since the paint significantly affects the quality characteristics of the seal, it is better to choose a standard black seal.

8. The rubber seal should be of medium hardness, too soft material will quickly become unusable, and too hard seal will prevent the door from closing.

9. When choosing a self-adhesive sealant, the sticky side should be covered with fine glass fiber particles.

Rules for selecting a seal for a metal door

Before you buy a seal for metal doors, you should decide on the shape and type of seal. Seals are sold in roll form with an average tape length of 600 cm, for standard door this seal will suffice.

To choose the right seal, you need to measure the gaps of the metal door. For this procedure, take plasticine, which must be wrapped in polyethylene and inserted into the slot, with the door closed. Using a tape measure or ruler, measure the length of the gap.

For a gap that ranges from 1 to 3 mm, a foam rubber, polyethylene foam or polyvinyl chloride sealant of a rectangular shape is used.

For gaps that exceed 3 mm, rubber seals are used, which are divided into:

  • seals with a C-shaped, K-shaped or E-shaped profile - used in three-millimeter gaps;
  • A P-shaped or V-shaped seal is used to eliminate a gap with a thickness of 3 to 5 mm;
  • in gaps that exceed 5 mm, an O-shaped or D-shaped seal is installed.

When performing work on replacing the seal, you should tear off a piece of the old seal and pick up a new seal that is as similar in size as possible in the store.

To determine the size of the required sealant, determine the number of layers, and then measure the dimensions of the metal door and determine the perimeter of the door frame, multiply the resulting number by the number of layers. It is better to purchase a seal with a margin.

Installing a seal on a metal door

1. When replacing the seal, carefully clean the surface of the doors from the old seal with fine sandpaper and wash the doors well with acetone or alcohol solution.

2. Metal doors are used at the entrance to the room, so it is advisable to install two or three layers of sealant to ensure more reliable sealing.

3. When installing a seal on the entrance door to an apartment that does not face the street, install two layers of seal. Lay the first layer on the outer door leaf, and install the second on the door frame.

4. If the seal is installed on a metal door that goes directly to the street, it is better to lay three layers of seal. The first and second circuits are installed on the door frame and the inside of the door, and the third - on the outer surface of the door. Requirements for an external seal for a metal door: resistance to temperature extremes, ultraviolet radiation, moisture, precipitation, good dimensional stability and tightness.

5. When buying branded doors from the manufacturer, there is a seal on such doors. In the presence of a double porch of the door, the seal is located on each porch.

6. The rubber seal is installed using silicone adhesive. To do this, the sealant is gradually smeared with glue and applied to the surface of the door.

7. When installing the seal on a painted metal door, at least twenty days must pass from the moment of painting.

Installation of a self-adhesive seal

Before replacing the seal, clean the surface of the remnants of the old seal and wipe the doors with an acetone solution.

A self-adhesive seal is even easier to install than a rubber one. For installation, you need to gradually, removing the tape, glue the seal around the perimeter of the door leaf. If the seal begins to stick poorly over time, use glue or sealant for gluing. When replacing the seal, do not use separate pieces, as there is a risk of poor sealing functions by the seal. Pay attention to the sealing of the corners, as in these places wrinkling or poor-quality gluing of the sealant is possible. After complete gluing of the seal, cut off the remnants with scissors.

Overview of manufacturers of seals for a metal door

1. Deventer (Germany)

Peculiarities:

  • use of environmentally friendly materials for the manufacture of seals;
  • availability of certificates of compliance with international standards;
  • excellent recovery properties after compression of the seal;
  • the use of a thermoplastic elastomer, which prevents the aging of the seal due to exposure to ultraviolet radiation.

2. Stomil Sanok (Poland)

Peculiarities:

  • high level of wear resistance;
  • additional sealing circuit;
  • production of a rubber sealant from special microporous rubber;
  • resistance to temperature changes from -44 to +66 ° C;
  • softness and high elasticity of the seal;
  • service life from seven to ten years;
  • the seal ensures noiseless closing of the metal door.

3. Akord (Turkey)

Peculiarities:

  • service life of 5 years or more;
  • harmlessness and environmental friendliness;
  • prevention of dust, sound or foreign odors entering the room;
  • affordable cost.

4. Welless (Germany)

Peculiarities:

  • variety of colors: black, beige, transparent, white, brown, dark brown;
  • ensuring maximum density and silent closing of a metal door;
  • high performance with temperature changes;
  • resistance to chemical influences;
  • antitoxicity, involves the use of a sealant in medical institutions.

5 Varnamo (Sweden)

Peculiarities:

  • the use of porous rubber for the manufacture of self-adhesive seals;
  • a variety of forms of seals: K-shaped, P-shaped and D-shaped;
  • minimum service life of seven years;
  • ease and simplicity of installation of a sealant;
  • rolls are sold in convenient packaging of 6, 16, 24 and 100 meters.

6. Cyclone (Switzerland)

Peculiarities:

  • moisture and wind resistance;
  • heat resistance from -40 to +60 °C;
  • good adhesion of the self-adhesive sealant;
  • provides excellent tightness and silent closing of a door.

The level of protection of the house from street noise and cold is affected not only by the quality of the entrance doors, but also by the material that contributes to their tight fit to the box. The absence of gaps creates good tightness, preventing drafts from roaming: in this case, sounds and smells from the outside will not be able to penetrate inside the house.

The classification of materials for sealing doors is carried out according to some basic characteristics. First of all, we are talking about the dimensions, material of manufacture and types of doors for which this seal was developed.

For example, wooden and iron doors are decorated with different types of tapes, although outwardly they are very similar. To choose the right equipment for your door, it is important to navigate this classification.

Helpful information:

Sealing tapes by types of doors

For each individual variety, its own sealant was developed.

Input

Most often, the finishing of entrance doors is carried out with a dense material in the form of a tube, inside of which there is a void. Significant thickness and bubbling of the material create a secure fit of the door to the frame. How to choose reliable and warm doors to the house.

Of particular interest is the internal structure of these rubber bands for door insulation. Due to the presence of internal pores, a multiple increase in the warming effect is achieved. Most often, the seal for the front door has a self-adhesive base, which makes its installation very fast.

On the other hand, over time, the adhesive loses its characteristics, and the strips begin to lag behind along the perimeter. You can.

Interroom

For sealant interior doors the function of protecting the premises from the cold outside is not assigned, as in the previous case.

This allows you to make it more aesthetic by using more elastic and soft silicone instead of dense rubber. The method of installation of these products may differ, as will be discussed below.

If during the repair process you decide to change the doors, then be sure to read.

Plastic

This group of materials is characterized by a high rate of laying and dismantling. Grooves are usually applied to plastic doors along the line of contact with the box, so the seals are given a special shape that repeats the configuration of these grooves. Due to the presence of walls on the sides of the fixing point, the sealing strip receives additional protection from external aggressive influences. The sealant for plastic doors is not afraid of moisture and temperature changes, so it can be used both outdoors and in interior doors without much difference. It is important to keep in mind that this rubber seal has been designed specifically for grooved plastic doors, so it is not recommended to seal other types of doors with it. In addition, different manufacturers complete their plastic doors with individual seals: this should also be clarified when selecting a suitable material.

glass

In the manufacture of a sealant for glass doors, silicone is used, equipped with a special profiled notch. During the installation of the strip, it is necessary to first moisten the area where it will be placed: this will make the connection as strong as possible. Since the design of glass doors can be very different, therefore, a special seal is developed for each of them.

What are door insulation made of?

In order to choose the most suitable door seals for your home, you should also be guided by the materials of their manufacture.

Rubber

Most often, entrance doors are equipped with a rubber seal. Moreover, the material of manufacture is not simple rubber, but its modified varieties that can withstand the most extreme conditions operation, including severe frost and heat. Besides the draft.

Silicone

The performance characteristics of silicone products are slightly lower than those of rubber. This is due to the fact that it is not possible to impart additional resistance to aggressive external influences to silicone even by introducing appropriate additives into its composition. For this reason, silicone liners are mainly produced for wooden interior doors, which are operated in comfortable conditions.

Foam rubber

It is the material for the manufacture of the cheapest door insulation, which fails within one year. The reason for this can be temperature fluctuations, dirt and moisture, which provoke crumbling and disintegration of foam rubber. The material gradually loses its original volume, which affects the functionality of products made from it.

Magnet

An innovative development, with the help of which expensive metal doors are mainly completed. To the average man in the street, the magnetic seal is familiar from household refrigerators and freezers, in which permanent magnets along the perimeter of the doors are attracted by the poles of attraction. Most often, metal doors are equipped with three-circuit magnetic seals. The location of the two circuits is the door leaf itself, while the third is mounted on the door frame. The main disadvantage of such products is a rather high pressing density, which a child or child will not always be able to cope with. old man. If the action of the magnets is weakened, then proper tightness and sound insulation will not be provided.

Advantages of a magnetic door seal

Soft filler is made of thermoplastic, which is characterized by the following advantages:

  • Considerable service life.
  • Persistent transfer of sharp temperature fluctuations (from -65 to +95 degrees).
  • Possibility of recycling after loss of performance.

Felt

Usually they are made out with a felt seal. Such tapes cannot provide special protection against noise and cold. They are used solely to prevent dust from entering the cabinet or room.

Basic ways to install door seals

When starting to install a door seal, the first thing to do is to find out what type of product you have to deal with. This will allow you to choose the most optimal way to glue the seal. The most common sealing gum grooved and self-adhesive types.

Groove seals

The installation of this material is very simple, so it is most often used for self-repair of doors. The most difficult moment of laying the seal for doors in the groove is finishing the corner sections. Beginners are advised to use accurate trimming of the material. More experienced users achieve continuous laying, without docking sections. The latter option is more preferable, since the level of door sealing in this case is an order of magnitude higher. However, to implement it, you will need to show some skill. Door seals on the bottom are equipped with a special edge on which there is a brush: such a structure of the material contributes to a fairly quick installation into the groove cavity.

In the course of laying both rubber and silicone seals, it is important to avoid even minimal stretching of the tape. Otherwise, an unacceptable voltage is formed inside the sealing layer, which will affect its performance. No matter how high-quality silicone or rubber is, they will gradually stretch, losing their original volume and elasticity. Experienced craftsmen, when laying the seal in the groove, try to compress it slightly, which significantly extends the life of the door insulation. Trimming of excess parts is carried out upon completion of laying. It is more convenient if only one edge of the rubber or silicone tape is left for trimming: in this case, the remaining segment is longer and can be used to insulate another door.

Self-adhesive seal

Laying such material also does not have any particular difficulties, although several useful tips should be taken into account. In order for the self-adhesive rubber seal to stick to the seat with high quality and for a long time, it should be pre-prepared. This procedure includes several steps. Firstly, all dirt must be removed from the surface of the door: this is done not only along a narrow installation area, but by some expansion to the sides. For these purposes, soapy water or detergent is usually used.

Special scrupulousness will require preparation wooden surface. It should not be too moistened - it is enough to wipe it thoroughly with a damp cloth. If the seat has roughness, protrusions and irregularities, they must be eliminated. In this case, the operation technology also depends on the surface material. For example, wood can be lightly sanded and puttied; for metal or plastic surface a gentle sanding will suffice. Individual protrusions can be carefully removed with a chisel or sandpaper. After the area for laying the sealant is cleaned and washed, it must dry completely. Sometimes, if the work is carried out in a closed room, or when it is necessary to speed up the process, a regular hair dryer is used to dry.

Before gluing the seal on the door, it must be degreased. When choosing a degreaser, it is important to consider the surface material. Most often, this procedure is carried out with white spirit, acetone or ordinary alcohol. However, it should be understood that all these agents are toxic and explosive, and they should be handled very carefully. It is better if it is possible to ventilate the premises well after application.

Useful advice: in cases where the seal is laid where people are at that time, it is better to use a special low-toxic emulsion or an aqueous alkaline solution for degreasing.

As for the direct laying of a self-adhesive sealant, this procedure is not particularly difficult. All that needs to be done is to release the lower part of the material from the protective film, and carefully lay it along the edge of the door. It is more convenient to remove the entire film not at once, but in segments of 10-15 cm, immediately mounting the freed area on the seat. At the same time, it must be pressed tightly against the surface of the door, achieving high-quality gluing. A similar algorithm of actions is maintained throughout the entire procedure. It is more convenient to start work from above, and when you reach the bottom edge of the door leaf, cut the rubber band with a sharp knife or scissors.

The entrance doors of apartments and private houses must not only be insulated, but also, if necessary, sealed, achieving, if possible, the maximum allowable design features tightness between the canvas and the box. The effect of a properly performed compaction will make itself felt immediately - it will become warmer and even cleaner in an apartment or your house; there will be fewer drafts if they do not disappear at all; annoying extraneous sounds and smells will no longer penetrate from the entrance or from the street. Sealing any doorway can be done independently - for this, there are several ways to do this work and types of seals for both metal and wooden doors, as they say, for any ability and wallet of the owner of the home.

Where and how to start - preparatory work

First, inspect the door and box. If they already have some kind of seal that has ceased to perform its functions, then it must be dismantled. After that, if necessary, we carry out a preliminary cleaning of the surfaces in those places where old stuff removing its remnants. We use fine sandpaper for this.

Then recommended if necessary. Misalignment will cause uneven fit and seal wear. Different sizes of gaps between the frame and the door above and below, left and right will also lead to this if the material of the same thickness is selected for the entire opening. Or you will have to select a seal for each side of the opening. The critical value of misalignment and gap size difference is 1–1.5 mm. If they are larger, then it is better to eliminate them by adjusting the door. It happens that performing this operation eliminates the reason why it was decided to seal the opening, and there is no need for such work.

Now we determine the installation location and the type of seal. It depends on which part of the door or frame needs to be measured in order to find out the right amount of material.

Then we measure the perimeter (or just the width and height in one place, and then add and multiply by 2) of the contour on which the sealing inserts will be installed. This is the total length of the desired material. But it is better to take with a margin, based on the place and method of installation.

Then, if the seal is intended for installation in one of the gaps between the door and the frame, its required width and thickness should be determined. The first size is clear. It is determined by measuring the width of the installation site.

To determine the thickness, ordinary plasticine is best suited. We sculpt it on the box at the place of the upcoming installation of the material and close the door. Then we open it and measure the thickness of the flattened-lubricated plasticine. This will be the required height of the sealing insert. But this is the thickness of the material in the compressed state when the door is closed.

It is necessary to take the seal a little thicker. In this case, it is necessary to take into account what material the insert is made of, as well as its density, rigidity and strength. For example, too thick a foam pad may soon simply tear, and a rubber one will prevent the door from closing well and bursting it, which will create an additional load on the lock and hinges, thereby reducing their service life. And if the insert is not thick enough, then gaps may remain somewhere.

If the gap on the left, right, bottom and top is different and very different, then it will be necessary to make thickness measurements with plasticine for each of these sides and, possibly, take material with a corresponding different height. For wooden unadjusted (skewed) doors, in the case of sealing with rails along the gap, it may generally be necessary to adjust at least 2 extreme points of each side.

It is necessary to buy sealing inserts in whole pieces of the required total length for all sides or for each of them if it needs to be cut. And in any case, it is not recommended to use separate pieces, and even more so cuttings of the sealant. The result of such work will be poor-quality sealing of the door, therefore, if part of the material was damaged during unsuccessful cutting or installation, it is better to buy it in the required length.

After purchasing the material, if necessary, we cut (cut) it into pieces the right sizes. And only immediately before installation, if necessary, we prepare the surfaces on which the sealant will be installed. We clean them of dust and dirt and remove convex irregularities. Then, if a sealant with an adhesive base (self-adhesive) or with the help of glue is being installed, the surfaces of the metal door must also be degreased (with white spirit, solvent, acetone or gasoline), and the wood should be sanded with the smallest scissor (zero).

Then we start installing the material. Corner sealing requires special attention, precision and accuracy. This is where the risk of leaving gaps is highest. When laying the seal in pieces (2 short for the bottom and top and 2 long for the left and right side), loose joints may occur between them. And when installed as a whole, the seal in the corners tends to wrinkle and / or may not attach tightly enough.

We seal a metal door - types of materials and their installation

The choice of sealant must be taken no less seriously than its subsequent installation. After all, it also depends on how long it will last, and most importantly, it will be possible to increase the tightness of the opening, including. Choose desired type and type of material according to the following criteria:

  • Design features of the entrance door: are there special grooves or a place for installing a sealing insert. They are provided in branded doors of reputable manufacturers.
  • The location of the door is apartment in the entrance or with access to the street in a private house. This affects operating conditions such as temperature and humidity. Their performance is especially important in winter.
  • Slit size in doorway which needs to be eliminated.

Accordingly, we select a product with the desired characteristics:

  1. 1. Material type: rubber, plastic, PE foam, silicone or foam.
  2. 2. Type of profile: regular rectangular or square without cross-sectional cavities or profiled - it can have a wide variety of shapes and cavities and / or protrusions, including those intended for mounting on a door.
  3. 3. Type or method of fastening: coupling with profile elements to the part of the door structure intended for this (for profiled seals); fixing with a clamping bar (metal or from the same material); by gluing with an adhesive base (for self-adhesive inserts) or using universal adhesive or .

Note:

  1. 1. You can make a seal yourself: for example, we wrap foam rubber in leatherette or artificial leather. Mounting is done by gluing.
  2. 2. Self-tapping seals are installed only on wooden doors.
  3. 3. What compositions should be used to glue the foam inserts, described in the article.

To seal a metal front door, rubber inserts are most often used. By the way, they are produced in all types of profile and mounting methods. Various profiled rubber seals are in great demand, the most common of which resemble letters in shape:

  • C, K and E-profiles - used for small gaps - up to 3 mm - between the frame and the door;
  • P and V-profiles - for medium slots 3–5 mm in size;
  • D and O-profiles - for large gaps up to 7 mm.

Most profiled inserts are designed to be installed in the opening on the end of the door or opposite it on the frame. The latter are mounted only by gluing. Doors can also be so-called mortise - they are installed by pressing into a special groove on the door frame. There are also sealing inserts installed on the porch of the box. They just stick. When the porch is double, the material is usually mounted on each of them. The dimensions of the insert for the first and second vestibules are different. There are also such seals that are not mounted in the opening, but on the edge (end) of the outer decorative door leaf.

Equally in demand are rubber seals of a solid rectangular and square section. Mounted by gluing in the opening and/or on the porch and on the door and/or frame.

Plastic, polyethylene foam and silicone seals also produce almost all of the above types (rubber). Foam rubber - mostly solid rectangular and square sections, and there are also profiled products with a simple profile. But all foam rubber seals are installed only by gluing.

Rubber, plastic, polyethylene foam and silicone plastic sealing inserts produce different colors, which allows you to choose the material to match the color of the door or its tone. Most of the colors are for rubber seals. However, experts say that dyes significantly reduce the quality of seals. And first of all, again, this applies to rubber products.

The installation of the seal is carried out in the selected location of the frame and / or door along their entire perimeter and in accordance with the type of installation envisaged. At the corners, a joint is usually made, that is, the material is cut. To do this, first measure the desired length for each side from one corner to the other. Then the material is cut into pieces, which are cut off from a common skein at an angle of 45 o . And then they install it.

Self-adhesive (with a base in the form of a film on which glue is applied), as many believe, it is the easiest to mount. The protective paper from their adhesive base must be removed during the process (after cutting into pieces) and as the seal is installed . That is, they separated the paper from a small section of the material and immediately pressed it against the door. And so gradually, but without stopping, we move until we finish the entire opening (if we seal it with a single piece of insert) or one side of it (when the door seal is cut into 4 parts). Then once again press the sealing insert well. If the glued seal peels off after some time, then it must be glued with Moment glue.

Sealing a wooden door - the most common options

To seal a wooden door, you can glue any of the profiled or solid rectangular (square) materials listed in the previous chapter. Of course, from among those that are designed for such an installation (self-adhesive and mounted with glue). For greater reliability of attachment, you can additionally screw the sealing inserts through the washers with self-tapping screws. The installation locations are the same as for the metal door.

And it is possible to seal the material own production- the so-called rollers. We wrap some kind of insulation (foam rubber is most often used) in leatherette or artificial leather. This is the roller. It must be mounted inside the apartment (house). Installation is done:

  • On the box - along its inner surface on the left, right and top at a short distance from the door. It is necessary to ensure that the door, when closing, fits snugly against the rollers. The rollers are not mounted on the threshold, because they wear out very quickly.
  • And on the door - to its lower edge.

The rollers are fastened with decorative nails along that side of them, which is opposite to the place where the leatherette is folded in half around the foam rubber.

Despite the effectiveness of sealing by the above methods, it is currently customary to use a variety of flashing rails for wooden doors:

  • wedge-shaped strips;
  • outer strips;
  • plastic tubes inserted with the help of special clamps on them into the grooves;
  • metal and plastic strips with a brush or rubber band;
  • other.

The wedge-shaped bar is installed on the box in the corner between the porch and the surface opposite the frame of the closed door. Moreover, installation is done only for the upper part of the opening and its sides. Before mounting, the bar is cut to the size of these installation sites. For docking points (at the top of the opening), they are cut at an angle of 45 o. And it is necessary to cut the bar in the places with which it will adhere to the door lock and hinges. Then we nail it with nails.

The outer bar is installed on the door stop of the box (that is, it is, as it were, a continuation of the vestibule). It is also cut to the size of the opening for its top and sides. Mount with screws or self-tapping screws. After correct installation between plank and closed door a sheet of paper must pass.

There are also rails that are installed on the outer front side of the door, closing the gap in the opening. They are also first cut into segments of the desired size. Then they are screwed to the door, which must be closed at the same time. It is very important to carry out installation with corrosion-resistant screws - rusted hardware can cause rotting of a wooden door.

The bottom of the doorway is sealed with other types of slats, the technology of which is also slightly different . Some flash rails are nailed to the threshold, while others are nailed to the inside face of the door. All of them are cut along the width of the bottom of the doorway, fastened with screws.

Flat threshold products are an aluminum or plastic base, to the bottom of which a brush or a rubber plate is attached. Such strips can be installed both on external and on internal doors. After proper installation, the gap between the flat rail and the threshold should be as small as possible. But at the same time, the bar should not interfere with the easy free opening and closing of the door. Some types of flat bars are equipped with special (elongated) holes for screws, thanks to which you can adjust the height of their installation.

Threshold products with a plastic shield prevent moist air from entering the apartment (house). As a rule, they are installed on the outer door.

Combined slats consist of 2 metal slats, one of which has a nylon brush attached. The product without a brush is mounted on the threshold. And a bar with a brush - on the door. The rail on the threshold is equipped with a special groove that prevents water from entering the room.

After the combined rail has been properly installed, the hanging edge of the rail installed on the threshold should “look” towards the premises. And the door lining brush should exert a slight pressure on the sill rail.

In any room, it is important to always keep warm, especially in cold seasons. Therefore, it is advisable to insulate not only windows, but also doors through which cold, wind and dust penetrate into the room no less, if not more. For this purpose, a variety of door seals are produced, which take care of the maximum preservation of heat in a house, apartment, office, public institution.

Purpose

Door seals are designed to eliminate cracks and gaps, due to which cold air and winds enter the room. It is impossible to do without them in a private house with doors facing directly onto the street. The door structure (especially if it is wooden or made of similar material) tends to dry out or, conversely, absorbs a large number of moisture during rains and dampness. Deformation of door frames creates conditions where the door cannot fit snugly against the jamb. It must either be replaced, which, of course, is not always possible, or use a saving inexpensive option in the form of a good sealant, which will extend the life of the door and help keep the heat in a residential or work space.

In addition, there is another function of the seal - cushioning, which is not directly related to the heat-saving function, but provides a softer contact between the door and the jamb, preventing loud blows and unnecessary creaking.

Requirements

Of course, in order to perform its main function, the seal must certainly be of good quality.

Therefore, it must have the following properties:

  • durable materials of manufacture - it is on them that the service life of the sealing tape depends. If the tape is not of very good quality, it will quickly fall behind the door and will simply be unusable;
  • good insulation must be sealed to surrounding surfaces. This provides an obstacle to the penetration of cold air, winds and street dust into the room;
  • resistance to constant mechanical stress is also a necessary quality, because when opening and closing doors, as well as under the influence of any external factors materials Bad quality subject to rapid wear;
  • the material should not only be durable, but also be able to bend well, not tear when trying to close door gaps and crevices with it, be as soft as possible in order to minimize the sound of the door hitting its frame.

Kinds

All types of door seals are produced in the form of a tape, which has a different length, width, thickness and color depending on the size of the cracks and gaps, as well as the color of a particular door in order to preserve aesthetics. Types of seal profile may be different. A profile is a form of insulation that can have a cavity inside the material, the task of which is to eliminate gaps and seal cracks of various sizes and shapes. Compressing, a good insulation does not acquire any damage. This property is possessed by high-quality polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or polyurethane. Profile shapes can be in the form of letters of the English alphabet: P, V, C, E, O and other configurations.

Sealing tape made of foam rubber - the most popular and inexpensive type. A self-adhesive film is attached to the foam, its thickness may vary. The methods of fastening the foam tape are different depending on the material from which the door frame is made. If it is wooden, the foam rubber is fixed on it with wallpaper nails, and if the entrance structure is metal, you can use strong glue, which is suitable for working with metal with it. Of the minuses of the foam rubber tape, it should be noted that it does not differ in wear resistance and it does not last long. Also foam rubber due to its porosity (especially if we are talking about tapes of large width) tends to let cold air through, so it is best to use it as a heater not for entrance doors, but for interior doors.

Tubular seal It is a thick dense tourniquet, inside of which there is a rather large cavity. It is thanks to the strength of the material in combination with the internal cavity that the door adheres to the jamb without cracks and unnecessary gaps. The tubular seal is made of rubber, which has a porous structure, which provides heat saving and sound insulation. Often it is self-adhesive, which makes it easy to install. Of course, any "self-adhesive" will simply fall over time, but usually it lasts from one to several seasons, and then it can also be easily replaced with another one. Most often, rubber is used for doors facing the street.

Groove seals are made specifically for plastic doors of various designs and are a softer rubber product than a thick tubular seal. Installation of such a product is more than simple: you just need to gently insert it into the door grooves. The groove method ensures minimal impact of external factors on the seal itself and lasts much longer, withstanding bad weather and sudden changes in temperature. This type of insulation can only be used for plastic doors. Unfortunately, it will not work for other door designs. By the way, interesting fact, which should be taken into account by all owners of plastic doors is that each manufacturer, in addition to selling and installing doors, is also engaged in the manufacture of seals, which can be immediately purchased as an additional and useful accessory.

glass seal is also a separate type of seals, designed specifically for glass elements of doors of different sizes. Their profile has an individual section, and the material of manufacture is flexible and soft silicone. It is enough just to moisten such material in water, and then immediately install the door in the right place. This type of silicone is different in that after soaking, after a certain amount of time, it adheres firmly to glass surfaces and does not “stick off”, unlike simple self-adhesive seals.

Magnetic seals are made in the form of a frame, repeating door contours with an accuracy of a millimeter. They are used for metal doors and are recommended by experts as the highest quality and durable. Each of them has two components: an insert with a magnet and a soft material. Such a seal is not cheap, and certain rules must be observed when installing it, however, wear resistance and high quality may help to acquire it.

Magnetic products possess a high degree tightness and shock absorption, so the door will not make noise when opening and closing, and the attraction of the door to the jamb will ensure the complete absence of cracks and gaps. The only drawback may be that, due to the magnetic attraction, additional physical effort will sometimes have to be applied to open the door. A special place among the seals is occupied by the threshold, the purpose of which is not only the insulation at the bottom of the doors, but also the increased load that the dense rubber or rubber from which it is made can withstand. When purchasing such an idea, you need to pay special attention to the quality of rubber.

contour seal good for its ease of use: it is attached to the door along its perimeter. If there is a special groove, it can be inserted there, or you can simply lay it along the edge if there is no gap or groove. Contour heaters are often made of rubber and foam rubber. For rooms with an increased fire hazard, a thermally expanding type of insulation is often used. Visually, it looks like the most common, but with a sharp increase in temperature during fire and smoke, it tends to immediately expand and foam. Thus, air does not enter the room, and the flame can quickly go out.

Also for fire doors, a triple, or three-layer seal providing additional sound and noise insulation effect. The seal, consisting of three layers (or contours), can be used in both apartments and offices for optimal comfort and safety. Additional rigid ribs make the door leaf much thicker and increase its weight, so it is important to ensure that the door frame and its fittings are as strong as possible. Such a heater, perhaps, retains heat best of all when used for front doors.

Liquid insulation option used for metal entrance doors and requires certain conditions of use. It is produced in metal cylinders and applied to the required places by spraying. In fact, it is a liquid foam rubber, which, when applied under gas pressure, quickly hardens, providing good thermal insulation properties. Its peculiarity is that it does not like places with a high level of humidity. Also, when spraying, a certain skill is required in order to apply it as accurately as possible so that the door does not acquire unnecessary cosmetic defects.

Liquid heaters are made from neutralized chemical compounds and are absolutely safe for the human body and animals.

Pile or fleecy species heaters are known to many people since childhood, mainly because their main representative to this day is felt. At the present stage, there are also synthetic analogues of fleecy insulation, but since felt is made from pure wool, despite its certain features (in particular, it is not so easy to attach it to doors), this is still its undeniable advantage. There is different types felt, having a specific designation, but for doors any will do option, the main thing is to cut the material correctly, having made the necessary measurements before that.

Of synthetic pile materials, it is often popular thin pile tape on an adhesive basis. Its task is to keep dust out of the room. It is rarely used as a door seal, but it is often used for installation on wardrobe doors.

There is still the most expensive, but at the same time reliable TEP seal in the production of which thermoplastic elastomers are used. These materials have high wear resistance, and therefore manufacturers claim that they can last from 15 to 20 years without replacement. High-tech flexible plastic is able to withstand extremely low temperatures and provides excellent thermal insulation even in temperatures below 50 degrees. In addition to the high cost, such a seal is notable for a certain complexity during its installation, but subject to all conditions, its price will justify itself very quickly.

Dimensions

Seals come in different sizes: thin, thick, wide. Dimensions are selected based on the size of the gap or gap. With a slot width of 1-4 mm, a rectangular profile is used, and the material can be PVC, foam rubber or polyethylene. For smaller gaps - up to 3 mm, a C-profile seal is suitable, as well as K or E. P- and V-profile products cover holes from 3 to 5 mm. Seals with wide cavities inside O and D are mainly designed for entrance doors and are installed in the gap between the door and the jamb, the dimensions of which can be up to 7 mm.

These products are usually produced in large rolls. The footage may be different, depending on the manufacturer and the type of sealing material. When buying, you should be guided by the fact that for one front door you need to purchase from 5 to 6 meters of insulation. A little less can go to interior doors, but it’s better to always take it with a small margin: it will never be superfluous on the farm, and if suddenly any part of the sealing tape wears out, it can always be replaced.

If you need to seal the gap between the door leaf and the jamb, the size of the gap can be removed very simply: you need to insert a piece of plasticine wrapped in plastic wrap between them. You will get an impression, which will help to correctly determine the desired width of the seal.

materials

Foam rubber seal is one of the most popular and simple. It has a self-adhesive base with which it can be easily attached to the door. The thickness and texture of the tape can be different. Foam rubber is nailed to wooden door structures with wallpaper nails, and if the front door is made of metal, you can fix the foam rubber with special glue, which is also designed to work with metal. The advantage of foam rubber has always been in its low cost and availability for everyone, however, it is known that its service life ends very quickly: often foam insulation is barely enough for one season, and under especially adverse weather conditions it can wear out much earlier. Of course, you can always buy it with a margin, but these features should be taken into account when buying.

Rubber insulation is rightfully called universal, because it is used to eliminate slotted gaps both in interior and exterior doors. You can work with it, insulating doors made of wood, chipboard and any metal. It can be of two types: either on an adhesive basis, or designed for installation in a door profile specially prepared for it. As you know, there are door models that are already produced with inserts designed to install a future seal.

The undoubted advantage of rubber seals is their wide range: they are available in the form of bundles of various diameters or tubular products with a cavity inside. Along with low cost, rubber has excellent sealing properties. When buying, it is very important to pay attention to its expiration date, as rubber loses its elasticity over time.

Silicone is similar to rubber, but it is softer, more ductile, quickly torn and abraded due to constant mechanical stress. In addition, after a while it acquires unnecessary stickiness, which is also an inconvenience. However, it also has its obvious advantages: silicone is very light and aesthetically pleasing. appearance, and in addition, it is considered an environmentally friendly material. Therefore, it is it that is most often used to insulate doors in kindergartens, schools, hospitals and clinics, and ease of use always ensures that there are no serious technical problems if it needs to be replaced.

Felt sealant is certainly familiar to everyone. Along with foam rubber, it is the most popular and well-known material that was widely used in the Soviet era. Felt is no less popular in use today, and even against the background of modern high-tech materials, it still has its obvious advantages. Felt is now easy to install and affordable compared to TPE seals.

The main advantage of felt is high wear resistance during operation. This natural and strong material is able to withstand harsh weather conditions and not wear out over a long period of time, especially if the installation was done correctly and conscientiously. Due to the fact that real felt is still made from pure wool, its internal structure does not collapse over time, unlike synthetic types of seals, and it can last for years without losing its original qualities. Felt is very dense, it perfectly absorbs sounds, perfectly retains heat and, contrary to popular belief, is a fireproof material precisely because of the density of its structure.

Previously, felt was widely used to insulate any doors and even windows. However, it has several features, due to which many consumers still prefer more modern species materials. Since it is still made from natural wool, following centuries-old traditions using complex technologies, its price is often quite high. In addition, the process of mounting felt on the door is not easy, and the master should have certain skills in order to do everything as correctly and accurately as possible. First of all, you will need to cut felt strips from sheet material yourself, while other types of seals are already sold in finished form and are mortise, which do not require special preparation.

Colors

At the present stage, you can choose for every taste and color not only a window or a door, but also a heater for it. The color range of seals made of silicone, PVC and rubber is not limited: a white seal is ideal for plastic doors of the same color, and black rubber material will become a reliable protector from the cold and extraneous sounds if you fix it on the front door. Classic black and white colors have their own specific scope: it is clear that black seals are better suited for massive doors made of iron or any other metal, while white ones can hide cosmetic defects and gaps in interior doors.

For colored metal-plastic doors, multi-colored seals are provided, which, as already mentioned, can always be purchased from the same manufacturing companies that produce doors. Transparent silicone types are suitable for those door owners who want the material used to be as inconspicuous as possible on the surface and at the same time perform its main functions.

Manufacturers

The leading manufacturer of expensive but reliable seals is Gasket LLC is a Russian company specializing specifically in thermoplastic elastomers. The assortment includes not only ready-made seals: at the request of the customer, measurements can be made and the product of any non-standard dimensions can be provided, taking into account the features of a particular door structure.

Volzhsky RTI plant Since the Soviet era, it has been producing rubber products on an organosilicon basis. Now this plant produces rubber door heaters of various sizes and profiles, intended for general consumption. The quality of rubber is high, such materials serve for a long time, and their price is very moderate.

LLC PKF "Kazpolimer"- an enterprise located in Kazan and engaged in the production of all types of PVC and plastic seals. The assortment includes heaters for both entrance and interior doors, as well as materials with which you can eliminate gaps not only in doors, but also in furniture, both new and old.

Firm "Bars-profile" from St. Petersburg has long been engaged in the production of various seals made of wear-resistant PVC materials for doors of any type. The company mainly specializes in European-style insulation for both doors and windows, producing products of virtually any color and profile, already pre-prepared for doors. different types. This company works in full compliance with the quality requirements in accordance with GOST.

Kazan firm "Polynor" specializes in paints and varnishes and construction products, but it is she who produces a high-quality liquid sealant for metal entrance doors with the same name. It is environmentally friendly and easy to use: in order to correctly apply it to the right place, it will be enough to carefully read the instructions.

Which to choose?

Before buying, it does not hurt to test the seal yourself for its quality. To do this, you just need to slightly press on it. If the quality is good, then the material returns to its previous shape after a few seconds, and if it is bad, it will remain in a “compressed” position or straighten out, but with signs of obvious deformation. It is not recommended to purchase such a sealant, and you should not look at the fact that it can be cheap: it will wear out or tear very quickly when in contact with the door structure, unable to withstand constant mechanical stress.

For the front door, as a rule, dense rubber seals are used, which have both tubular and rectangular shapes, depending on the size of the slots and the "age" of the door. If we are talking about a metal one-piece structure of the door frame, it can be insulated liquid material by gently spraying it from the can. Magnetic heaters are ideal for steel and iron doors - they will provide the most tight closing, but will somewhat make the already weighty structure heavier. Magnetic heaters, as well as TEP options, will serve for a long time, being fixed on movable pendulum structures.

External and street doors can be insulated with felt, of course, by inviting an experienced craftsman for this and taking into account all the necessary costs associated with the material and the work process itself. Also, magnetic insulation (if we are talking about external metal doors) will be an excellent and less energy-consuming option. It should be borne in mind that felt can be used to insulate door porches, its dimensions, due to the specifics of the material, can be “customized” in the course of work.

AT log house special care should be taken about fire safety, so for any wooden door (made of oak or other woody material), a good alternative would be to use an intumescent insulation, which in the event of a fire hazard will prevent oxygen from entering the room, which can prevent the rapid spread of flames.

As for interior doors in general (including sliding and compartment doors), in this case you can use more aesthetic seals made of soft silicone or plastic of the appropriate color. Since we are talking about moving structures, it would be better, in addition to the adhesive base that the seals have, to additionally fix it with glue on wood or chipboard, depending on the material from which the door is made.

By the way, to prevent the accumulation of dust and dirt in the sliding structures of cassette-type doors, self-adhesive fleece tape, which is not very popular among door seals, is ideal, which is used to eliminate small gaps in wardrobes, chests of drawers and other furniture.

For a balcony door, a narrow adhesive-based rubber insulation is usually used, and if you still want to save money, you can also use foam rubber. If a balcony door is a part of a double-glazed window, it will not be difficult to install any plastic seal on it. If the balcony door is old, wooden, with many cracks and gaps, wide strips of felt can be fixed around the perimeter of the door, following the size of the gaps, and small gaps can be eliminated using specially cut felt pads.