Do-it-yourself chain-link fence. Chain-link fence without welding: detailed step-by-step instructions for craftsmen and photo examples of finished works. Start installing poles

If you want to protect your summer cottage quickly and inexpensively, the ideal option is a chain-link fence. The material itself has many positive properties, in particular flexibility, which allows you to make rounded turns. Regarding durability, some types serve 4-5 years, others - 30 or more.

Installation is carried out in several ways - you can simply manually pull between the supports or make separate sections using welding. Pillars use a variety of - wooden, metal, brick. The choice of design depends on its purpose. If everything is done thoughtfully, step by step, the work goes easily.

Chain-link mesh - features of different types

For all products, black low-carbon wire with a diameter of 1–6.5 mm is used, intertwined with each other. The cells are strictly square or rhombic with 60° angles, ranging in size from 2.5 to 100 mm. The thickness of the material, the parameters of the clearance affect the scope. The main purpose is the creation of fences, but it is also used in construction, cages for breeding birds and animals.

Some manufacturers pre-treat raw materials, but this is not required condition.Depending on this, three types of chain-link are distinguished:

1. 1. From ordinary wire without protection, which leads to the rapid appearance of corrosion, which reduces the life of the mesh to 4–5 years, after which dismantling is required. Accordingly, this is the cheapest material of all. Mostly used temporarily with the expectation of a replacement in the future. Painting will prolong the life, but it should be applied immediately after installation, and then repeated at least every three years.
2. 2. Galvanized mesh is more expensive, but it also lasts much longer due to the protective layer. The best option in terms of price-quality ratio, therefore, deservedly enjoys the greatest popularity.
3. 3. Relatively recently, a plasticized chain-link appeared; polymer paint was initially applied to its base made of metal wire. She is not afraid of precipitation, more beautiful than her predecessors, has different colors. Mostly green, but there are products with burgundy, black, light shades.

An alternative option is confidently moving on the market - the gitter mesh. It is made from high-quality steel rods with a diameter of 3-6 mm, caught together by spot welding, which gives reliability and durability - up to 50 years. Appearance resembles a lattice, which is why it got its name.

Individual elements are bent - stiffeners are obtained. They simultaneously perform two functions - they give strength and decorative effect. Its approximate cost is 390 rubles per square meter from metal 4 mm with a polymeric covering. For 1 m2 of a product made of 5 mm rods, you will have to pay 550 rubles.

A chain-link fence attracts with the lowest cost of all fencing options. Despite the relative cheapness, with a carefully executed installation, it will decorate any area. If you show imagination, then a unique design is created with your own hands. Possible options:

1. 1. Weaving openwork patterns. It is carried out on a coarse mesh with a thin wire.
2. 2. Landscaping. Planted along the fence climbing plants.
3. 3. Artificial flowers. They are woven into cells, made from wire in insulation, pieces of plastic.
4. 4. Drawing on a grid with small cells. Aerosol paints create various images.

In addition to the financial component, other advantages of the material also make you choose it:

• light weight, which allows you to do without a massive frame or foundation if necessary;
• resistance to external climatic influences, which different types the mesh is different, as well as mechanical - the chain-link fence is difficult to destroy;
• does not create a shadow, so all plants feel comfortable even next to the fence;
• does not require any maintenance, except for structures made of ordinary unprotected wire;
• a wide range allows you to make a choice in quality, price range, sizes - the material is available in every hardware store;
• it is mounted quickly, only a sectional fence is a little slower, but in any case, two people are enough and a significant result is visible in a day.

Of course, there are some disadvantages, but they are avoided if you choose high-quality products, install a fence in accordance with the recommended technology.

Preparation - drafting, materials

To build a fence, you will need a grid, support posts, everything else, depending on the chosen design. Correctly calculate their number will allow the drafting. To do this, measure the territory along the perimeter and put a sketch on paper. Access roads, trees, various buildings are taken into account.

The features of the relief are taken into account in order to determine what is more profitable for its unevenness - to remove the soil or to make a fence in a cascade with differences in height. The drawing indicates the location of the gates, gates and pillars.

Installation methods

Preliminary sketches, which so far have only general data, allow us to calculate the amount of some materials: nets, pillars. To find out how much everything else is needed, you should dwell on one of the possible technologies.

The simplest, but not very reliable, involves stretching the mesh along the supports, screwing them to them. A significant drawback is that sometimes it sags. How a temporary solution can be applied. If you bring wire into the cells around the entire perimeter, it will support the fence. At least it is pulled from above, better - additionally below, and the most advanced version - also in the middle. The required footage is equal to the perimeter multiplied by two or three.

The most attractive is the fence, consisting of separate sections. In length, they are equal to the gap between the pillars, minus a few centimeters of space from the support to the frame, and the height is determined as desired. Corners are used for manufacturing. Required amount metal is counted around the perimeter. This is the most labor-intensive and expensive project, but the most reliable and durable. It is used for uneven terrain to create a cascading fence.

A less expensive option is obtained when reinforcement, which is cheaper, is used for the frame instead of corners. It is not necessary to make separate elements from it, it can be stretched in the cells from below and above, welded to the supports. Detailed drawings will help determine the quantity required material, location, which is especially important for sectional fencing with terrain differences.

Mesh selection

The main parameters are taken into account: wire diameter, mesh size, coating. The chain-link is supplied in rolls, usually 10 m each, 1.2–1.5 m wide, there are two meters and even 3 or 4 m. The height of the fence depends on this. The required length is equal to the perimeter. If you plan to use sections, then the size of one is multiplied by the total number. With significant volumes, the correct calculation will save money.

The material and coating was discussed above. Another important indicator, affecting the quality of the structure - the size of the cells, which can be from 25 to 65 mm. The smaller it is, the more expensive and stronger the product. The shape - square or diamond-shaped - does not play a significant role.

They are chosen from a purely practical point of view, considering for what purposes it is planned to use. If for the inner fence, where chickens or adult birds will be, there are some parameters, and so that larger animals do not penetrate, others. For an external fence, the indicators are different - the wire cross-section and its type are in priority.

The thickness of the metal directly affects the strength. For capital long-term structures, a mesh thinner than 2.5 mm is not used. The combination of low thickness with large cells makes it unsuitable for fencing. It pretty soon deforms, sags, holes appear.

Taking into account all indicators, it is recommended to use for external fencing suburban area chain-link mesh with cells of 40-60 mm, with a wire diameter of 2.5 mm, galvanized or plasticized. She has the best value for money.

Another important feature good material– the state of the edges of the roll in width. For products manufactured in large enterprises using modern equipment, they are bent, which greatly simplifies installation. And private firms mostly have only a primitive machine, unsuitable for this operation. It is expensive to do it manually, so the buyer has to bend it.

What poles are used?

From all points of view, metal pipes have the greatest advantages. To install them, minimal priming or painting of the part that will be in the ground is required. Any fastening is welded to such pillars without any problems. The recommended diameter of a round profile is 60 mm, the cross section of a rectangular one is 40 × 60 mm.

You can also find material at the nearest scrap metal purchase, which will be much cheaper. Painted pipes with hooks, specially designed for sectional fences, appeared on sale. They cost a little more than usual, but less worries. It is preferable to use a rectangular profile - it is stronger due to the stiffeners that are formed due to geometry. It is more convenient to weld fasteners to them, they look more beautiful.

Wood, as a material for supports, is quite common due to its availability. This is the simplest solution, which then often turns into trouble. Wood has a significant drawback - it is unstable to weather conditions, it is destroyed by microorganisms. Dense rocks are very expensive, and soft rocks are affordable, but extremely short-lived. True, if properly treated from fungi and rot, constantly painted, they will stand for 20 years.

In practice, wood is rarely used for capital fences. While the metal parts still last (at least twice as long), it already has to be replaced - troublesome and unwise. But if the quality of the mesh matches the pillars, then it is quite acceptable to buy material for 70 rubles. per running metre.

Other types of pipes, such as asbestos-cement pipes, are also used. They are quite durable, relatively inexpensive - for one piece three meters long you will have to pay 350 rubles. It is not easy to mount the mesh on such a support, it is necessary to make special devices in the form of clamps or clamps. Since they are hollow, the installation of plugs will be required, otherwise the water that has collected inside will freeze in winter and break the support.

Brick pillars, so popular today, are rarely used for chain-link fences. These materials are very different - an impressive massive brick structure and a light air mesh. Is that a sectional fence. In addition, you can’t just put them on the ground - a foundation is required.

Concrete supports are affordable, their strength is beyond doubt. At good quality they can last for centuries. But it is inconvenient to fasten, you have to invent something, and this is an extra waste of metal and time. In addition, delivery to a remote area from the store will be a problem - you will not be lucky in the passenger compartment of a car.

Marking the territory and installing poles

Start by cleaning the area where the fence will pass. It is better to do this in advance and around the entire perimeter, so that later you will not be distracted and not irritated by the garbage lying under your feet. Then pegs are installed in the corners, a cord is pulled between them. Next, mark the location of the pillars. A distance of 2–2.5 m is recommended, no more, because the mesh tends to sag.

Count the number of supports by dividing the length of the straight section of the fence by 2 or 2.5. An integer value is unlikely. Then the total length is divided by the average value. For example, the side is 37 meters. If you divide by 2 - this is 18.5 pillars, by 2.5 - 14.8 will come out. An intermediate number of 16 is chosen. When dividing 37 meters into 16 racks, the distance between them is 2.3 m, which is quite acceptable.

Marks are made along the line of the stretched rope. Pits are made with a shovel or drill. It is important that their level is 15–20 cm below the freezing point of the soil. However, not all masters agree with this statement. In each locality, the indicators are different, but in any case it is not less than one meter. The mesh fence is quite heavy, and if the supports are not deepened enough, it can tilt. In some cases, half a meter is allowed, a little more, but this is determined by the properties of the soil - it is dense, clayey.

If the soil is loose or heaving, set below the freezing depth. Then the pillar in winter will definitely not push it up. Another way - the pit is made twice as wide, small stones, gravel are thrown into the space around and rammed. Concrete 40 cm from the top. Drainage is created below, the supports will definitely not lead. It doesn't matter what material they are made of, even wood. This is the most reliable way to fix.

Metal pipes can be hammered with a sledgehammer, but the upper part must be protected from deformation with a piece of board or plywood. It is sometimes quite difficult to achieve an accurate vertical position with this method of installation. They use a compromise option - they dig a hole up to half, install a support and finish it off to the desired depth.

Before installing the pillars, they are prepared. Wooden ones are treated with an antiseptic to the level of deepening into the soil. Instead, many homeowners use recycled motor oil, resin, or burn them at the stake. The metal is cleaned of rust, coated with an inhibitor that prevents corrosion. Can be painted with primer or bitumen.

It is important to follow the installation order, then all the supports will be on the same line. Step by step work is performed as follows:

1. 1. Install the pillars in the corners. When pulled, they bear the greatest load, so they are reinforced with struts. Next in line are the poles at the breaks in the fence.
2. 2. All of them act as landmarks, between which they stretch the rope. Next comes the turn of the gate and gate. Supports for them are often reinforced, necessarily concreted.
3. 3. The intermediate posts are set last, keeping the same distance between them, which is especially important for a sectional fence. May need to be amended. They monitor not only the location on the same line, but they always control the verticality with a plumb line.

On a site with a significant slope, it will not work to stretch the grid. There is only one way out of the situation - terrain terracing. In place of the height difference, a longer support is installed. A mesh is attached to it on one side, the canvas is separated in width. The second part is set at a different level. The sectional fence is mounted according to the same principle.

Tension fence - successive steps

A few days after the installation of the pillars, when the concrete hardens, they proceed to the final stage. It starts by pulling the cord along the line where the top of the fence will pass. It is determined in such a way that the bottom of the grid does not touch the ground, but is several centimeters higher. When in contact with the ground, metal, even galvanized, begins to rust faster.

Next, provide for fastening the chain-link to the supports. If they are metal, welding is used - with its help, small, 3-4 centimeters long pieces of the rod are installed. The thickness is chosen such that then without much effort to bend them. If the pillars are wooden, nails are stuffed along the entire length after 15–20 cm. For asbestos-cement, concrete, they prepare soft wire or plastic clamps.

Start with a corner support. This is due to the fact that bending around it, it is difficult to stretch the mesh well. You will have to separate the whole piece, and this is extra work. The roll is installed vertically, the extreme cells are fixed in any way. It is recommended to stretch a long bar into them, which is connected by welding with hooks, nailed, bending them, or wound with wire. This will ensure even tension.

For work, you will need the help of another person, and preferably two. Unwind the roll to the next post. A piece of reinforcement is threaded into the cells that are a little further behind it. Two people - one from above, the other from below, grab her with their hands and pull towards themselves. The third attaches the mesh to the support. The process is repeated until the roll runs out, and this can happen between posts as well.

Then the cells are connected to each other. This is done simply. The wire is taken out of the last row, the finished cloth is applied to the next one and weaved between them. It turns out a continuous mesh without seams. It is better to foresee that it will end so that the remainder is not too short. Then it is laid on the ground, and fastened in this position, which is more convenient than on weight.

You can meet the advice to carry out the procedure with all the rolls in advance, making one large and continuous canvas. You shouldn't do that. The mesh will interfere, lying under your feet, to work due to heavy weight uncomfortable and hard.

To prevent sagging, wire or reinforcement is simultaneously passed through the cells, which is fixed on supports. Make one top row or several, depending on the height of the fence. With its long length, tensioners are installed in the form of a hook with a long thread or a lanyard. These are two screws that are screwed into a special long nut from different sides. At the ends they have hooks or clamps where the cable is threaded.

If the antennae on the grid are straight, they are bent down. This protects against injury and creates additional strength of the canvas. The remaining piece is separated, retreating one cell from the last column. It remains to paint the supports if they used welding. When wire or clamps are used for fastening, this is done in advance.

Sectional fence - assembly instructions

All preliminary work is similar to the tension fence device. It is required to make a frame inside which the grid is mounted. The material is a corner with shelves 30–40 mm and a thickness of 4–5 mm. Its length parameters are 10–20 cm less than the distance between the supports, and the width differs from their height by 10–15 cm. The metal is cut to size with a grinder and welded in the form of a rectangle.

Unwind the roll, separate the piece, taking out the wire. Sometimes the mesh is wider than the section, then the excess is removed with a cutting wheel. But it is desirable to foresee and calculate everything so as not to create additional worries for yourself - to buy a chain-link according to the size of the frame.

Stretching the mesh inside the section is more difficult than without it. To do the work with your own hands with high quality, do everything step by step:

• rods 4–5 mm thick are threaded into the extreme width of the cell;
• on the one hand, weld it inside the corner;
• fittings are installed at the bottom and at the top in the same way;
• grab it by welding from the side where the mesh is already fixed;
• pull and finally fix the element of the fence inside the frame.

Another method involves welding on pieces of wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm as often as possible along the inner sides of the corners. A mesh is put on them, then they are bent. Here it is important to calculate the installation locations of the hooks. So that the fence does not sag, they are welded along the top of each cell.

When the sections are ready, strips of metal 4-5 mm thick are attached to the poles (by welding, on clamps, nailed - depending on the material). On both sides of the supports, they should protrude so that the frame can be attached. It takes two pieces on each side, set at a distance of 20–30 cm from the edges.

It is more difficult and more expensive to make a sectional fence than a simple stretch one, but it looks much more attractive.

The cost of a chain-link fence

Financial costs are determined by the design of the fence and the materials used. There are many companies offering the construction of turnkey chain-link fences. The cost of one running meter is from 320 to 430 rubles, depending on the diameter of the wire and the height of the fence.

Many people prefer to do it with their own hands, winning financially. It is not necessary to adhere to any scheme, various combinations are possible - metal with wood, concrete, and the like. The most expensive are sectional fences, which require a lot of iron. The proposed tables are based on the retail prices of major manufacturers as of 2018.

product name	Dimensions		price, rub.
	Cells, mm	Rolls (width and length), m
Mesh netting with PVC coating	55×55×2.5	1.5×10	956
		1.8×10	1147
		2.0×10	1274
Mesh netting not galvanized	10×10×1.0	1.0×10	944
	15×15×1.0	1.0×10	596
	20×20×1.4	1.5×10	956
Wire mesh galvanized	55×55×2.5	1.5×10	1283
		1.8×10	1539
		2.0×10	1711

Cost table for 1 linear meter of hardware

Prices may vary in different regions, but the data presented allows you to navigate when choosing a chain-link fence model.

How to protect your summer cottage? A steel mesh fence is an economical option that is considered effective, fairly easy to install. It does not cast shadows, is well ventilated, forms a transparent wall that does not interfere with plant growth. But the most attractive thing is that the simple technology of work allows you to install a chain-link fence with your own hands.

What to give preference to: features of the chain-link mesh?

However, there are options here too: just stretch the cellular fabric between the pillars or fix it according to the design made from the corner? The first method is simpler, although it does not look so impressive from an aesthetic point of view. Alternatively, such a fence can be equipped on the boundary with a neighboring site.

What to use for the device supports?

The cost of the fence, its durability is affected by the material from which the pillars are made. It can be a light, inexpensive tree. If these are bars, then they need to be cleaned of bark, cut into equal lengths (3m), be sure to open them with a waterproofing solution. You can use poles left over from construction in the country as supports. The upper part of the supports, located above the ground, is exposed to atmospheric precipitation, so it will have to be proliferated, then painted oil paint. Wood is a material that is easy to process, but, nevertheless, short-lived.

Important! On unstable soils, in wetlands, the entire underground part of the pillars must be concreted. The cement mortar is prepared in proportion: two parts of cement, two parts of crushed stone are taken for one part of sand. When adding each component, the dry mixture is thoroughly mixed. Water is poured so much that after thorough mixing the solution is not very liquid. With the tip of a shovel, it is rammed, leveled, shaken. When concreting hole foundations for pillars, the main work is resumed only after 7 days, when the concrete "ripens".

Asbestos-cement or concrete structures. They are strong, stable and durable. Fastening to the supports of rolled cellular material is carried out with a cable or wire through equipped clamps. The weaving option is that the pole is surrounded by a cable threaded into the cells. One thing is bad: in the event of a vandal capture of the net, it is enough to “bite” the cable, and it can be easily removed.

Metal poles-supports in this regard are more reliable. Plus, they last for decades. Pipes 60 - 120 mm in diameter with a metal thickness of at least 2 mm are used. Grid holders are welded on them in the upper part - metal hooks. Then the whole structure is painted with waterproof paint.

Carefully evaluate the roll

When choosing a chain-link mesh, you need to pay attention to general form roll. It should not be crumpled, deformed. Wire braided material - smooth, whole. It is very important that the edge part does not look like a curve: all the outer corners of the cells must be of the same height, elongated “along the string”. From this envy aesthetic appearance, lack of sagging.

The grid is used for fences steel, galvanized. Sold in rolls of 10-20 m long. The size of the cells, their thickness, as well as the width of the mesh fabric also varies. Roll material with a width of one and a half meters is most in demand. If you want to make the fence higher, the mesh fabric rises by the upper edge, the gap formed at the bottom is laid with the available materials at hand.

Exclusivity, a special flavor to a chain-link fence with your own hands in the decor can be given by a colored polyester coating that is resistant to damage and fading, as well as the shape and size of the cells. Usually, these are rhombic or square honeycombs sized 30x30, 45x45, 50x50mm. Although canvases can be made to order with a different geometry.

An attempt is not torture: do-it-yourself installation of a mesh fence

The simplest installation of a chain-link fence with your own hands without welding comes down to the following.

• Installation begins with driving corner posts along the border of the site, because. they will be subjected to the greatest uneven load. Since the entire construction of the fence is quite light, the foundation is not needed for it. The pillars are planted in the ground to a depth of about 1 m. If it is a metal pipe or profile, then the lower part, which will be in the ground, is treated with an anti-corrosion compound.
• Half of the volume of land is selected with a drill. At the final depth, the pillars are driven in with a sledgehammer. Before starting the installation, the vertical is checked with a water level. In case of deviation from it, the fence can “lead”. The resulting void between the pillar and the walls of the pit is filled with rubble, after which it is carefully compacted. This is done to make the structure stronger.
• So that the mesh web does not deviate from the vertical plane, a cord is stretched between the corner supports. This will be a line, a kind of landmark on which you need to drill the rest of the holes. The total length of the fence is measured with a tape measure. The resulting value is divided into equal sections. Every 2.5 m, holes are dug or drilled for supports. The selected stride length must be respected as at a greater distance, the windage of the mesh becomes unacceptable: under the force of the wind, the mesh material will stretch, and over time it will simply sag.
• By the way, in some cases, in addition to concreting, for reliable fixation, the supports in the drilled holes are covered from all sides with rubble stone or savage. This layer is carefully compacted, after which a small layer of soil is laid on top. The resulting "pillow" must be well compacted again. Finally, on top, the finishing layer of rubble stone is laid.
• The design feature of the poles are the hooks at the top. Welded to the profile, they bend well. Before installing the grid, they need to be straightened. The rolled canvas itself must be hung correctly. For this, the upper edge of the roll is determined: the wire on it is longer. In addition, the extreme spiral is marked. "Nippers" bite off the central and extreme screeds. A roll of chain-link mesh (galvanized, steel, etc.) is rolled out from the extreme edge “on itself”. It should turn out to be a solid canvas when unfolded.
• Grasping the edge, holding the material, gradually stretch it. In this form, the grid will not get tangled, and the edges will cling to the cells. Better if it is galvanized. In the case of a metal fence, its surface will rust from moisture in a couple of days after installation. Galvanization is durable. In any case, it will last a quarter of a century on the fence.

• For the cells of the upper row, the mesh is suspended on pre-bent hooks. At the same time, at the joints of two panels, it is left unstretched. Between themselves, the edges of the two rolls are intertwined with a zigzag wire. It is considered extreme in the roll web, therefore it is unscrewed from it. Then, using the weaving method, attaching both pieces to the ends, they are intertwined with this piece. It turns out a seamless solid fence.
• Now the finally solid fence is pulled tight so that it does not sag over time. Hooks are bent with a hammer, fixing the specified mesh tension. Do not forget about the top of the canvas. Unformed tendrils of the wire from which the cells are made stick out on it. The ends sticking out in different directions are twisted together, wrapped downwards, in order to avoid injuries during the work.
• A chain-link fence with a cable can be considered as an option in which a thin (ᴓ 6mm) cable or wire is passed into the even upper row of cells. Tension fasteners are fixed in the corner posts. It is tensioned with bolts and does not allow the structural material to sag. To do this, holes are pre-drilled on the pillars closer to the outer edge, as well as in the middle. They should be located at a height equal to the location of the penultimate row of cells, be slightly larger in diameter than the cross section of the wire (cable) or rod used for tension. In supports for installed mesh sections, such wire holes are not needed.
• Protruding "whiskers" are twisted around the wire. It is also needed to eliminate the hanging of the top of the mesh, its sagging. To do this, you need to apply a certain tension force. To create it, use a special device for a chain-link fence from a mesh with a cable. A thick bar is pulled through the cells of the extreme row. A part of the mesh is wound on it with a roll until it stops. All wound material is fixed with wire. A cable is attached to the rod. I use a long bar as a lever, tighten the mesh to full tension. This position is fixed on the supports with bolts or other hardware.

Important! The fence made of galvanized stainless material does not need further finishing. It can be used immediately after installation. If the wire in the mesh is metal, its subsequent coloring is required. The work is done only with a brush: from a spray gun a lot of paint is uneconomically spent in space, and when working with a roller, it is impossible to completely paint over the weaves.

• When erecting a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands, you do not need to mount the structural material with an overlap on the ground, leaving air space between it and the ground. This, on the one hand, will remove the additional load on the grid; on the other hand, by eliminating contact with the ground, the metal sheet will not be subjected to corrosive destruction in this way.
• The hooks on the poles are nailed to a flattened appearance with a hammer. The rolled wire passing through the upper, lower row of cells is fixed to the posts by welding. On the corner supports, where you need to make a bypass of the canvas, you get a loose tension, no matter how carefully you try to do it. Therefore, in this place a connecting seam is made from two pieces of mesh.
• Do-it-yourself chain-link fence without welding looks less preferable than a fence made of welded frame sections with an area of ​​1.5x2.5 m from a steel corner. The mesh design is welded to them by electric welding. It will provide such a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands decor to any exterior. Climbing plants planted next to it, flowers, located on the fence and clinging to it with shoots, will create a natural, colorful, fragrant, living carpet.

The mesh construction is not only a beautiful, simple even in its own design, an original "living" hedge. A chain-link fence is an example of how, having been smart and making an effort, you can economical option build original fence, which is in no way inferior in its purpose to more fundamental and expensive structures.

A strong and reliable fence of the site does not have to be made of stone and concrete. Chain link fence is a smart alternative expensive projects. This simple, lightweight and at the same time reliable material allows you to perfectly implement the idea of ​​​​reliable protection of the site from uninvited guests.

Fencing with decorative elements

Well, if the cost of fencing and work is really affordable, then why not order such a fence for a turnkey site? Or you can even take a chance and put up the fence yourself. Let's examine both options in detail.

Installing a chain-link fence has several undeniable advantages, which clearly show that the idea of ​​​​arranging just such a fence deserves attention.

The economic aspects of construction are related to how much the material costs and what is the price with the installation of such a project:

• installing a mesh fence will cost much less than;
• the service life of such a structure is at least 2 times longer than that of a wooden one;
• the material for the main web, racks and accessories for stretching is quite cheap;
• the opportunity to save on installation costs - assembling a chain-link fence with your own hands is much easier than others.

On the technical side, this design allows:

• install a fence of almost any length;
• when working with ready-made delivery kits, for example, from those sold in Leroy, build them without welding and using additional tools;
• the material allows you to install both relatively light options, and with a rigid frame - a fence in sections from a metal corner or profile;
• the material is great for the perimeters of plots of any shape;
• installation does not require a large amount of work associated with the foundation. The weight of the canvas allows you to install it on poles made of profile pipe 50x50 mm without supports;
• the material is not afraid of temperature changes, sunlight, able to withstand a large mechanical impact;
• PVC-coated canvas does not require painting and additional care;
• material for construction is easy to calculate and transport. It is sold in rolls of 10 meters, the connection is made by interlacing two segments into one common canvas;
• a wide range of sizes. The height of the material can be standard: 1.5; 1.8; 2.0; 2.5; 3.0 meters.

The photo shows an easily mounted fence.

Such a fence does not obscure the neighbors' plot.

Issues related to the placement of the fence include:

• the possibility of its placement both for a city site and for a summer residence. High light transmission allows you to build a fence between neighbors. At the same time, there will be no shaded zone in the neighboring areas, which corresponds to . But do not forget about.
• construction on screw piles will not damage root system trees and shrubs. Therefore, it can also be placed in places where a garden is already growing, although this also has its own.

Beautiful fence decor

with guides

Installation of a chain-link fence with guides involves the construction of a rigid frame in the form of horizontal guides. The following are used as guides:

• profile pipe with a profile from 20x20 to 40x20 mm;
• metal rod;
• fittings;
• wooden bars.

Without guides

One of the methods of how to stretch the mesh on the fence is the option of building hedges without guides. A steel cable or wire is used as a tensioner, threaded through rigidly fixed supports. The extreme corner supports are well reinforced with stops. The wire or cable is pulled through the cells at the top and bottom of the canvas at a distance of 5-10 cm from the edge.

The tension is done using bolts with holes in the head or lanyards.

Sectional option

sectional fence

A sectional mesh fence, mounted on supports with the help, is distinguished by the fact that it is difficult to dismantle it. It is much easier and easier to use the installation of sections with bolts.

Pole installation

The manufacture of a fence is associated primarily with correct markup site and installation of supporting pillars. from the grid are selected depending on the construction budget. For this are used:

• metal profile pipe;
• water pipe;
• metallic profile;
• corner;
• brick pillars;
• asbestos-cement pipes;
• wooden poles.

Most cheap option These are wooden poles. Asbestos-cement pipes and concrete pillars. In more detail, they will help you choose a fence. Photos of fences using supports made of different material.

Preparatory stage

The construction of the fence begins with marking the perimeter of the site and breaking it into straight segments. Separately, a segment is marked where the entrance gate and gate will be installed. Under it is better to provide powerful supports from a thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm or a profile pipe 100x100 mm.

Calculate the dimensions of the spans under the sections with high accuracy, the distance between the fence posts without guides can be from 1.5 to 2.5 meters.

Pillar installation

Under each pillar comes off a foundation pit. Under the main pillars - angular, rotary and on which the gates are attached, the foundation pit comes off taking into account. Intermediate posts can have a pit diameter of 200-230 mm, such as the diameter of a garden auger auger.
The depth of the pit depends on the height of the building: with a height of up to 2.5 meters, a meter is enough, for a greater height of the supports, a depth of 1.5 meters is taken.

Structure mounting scheme

Construction begins with the installation of the main pillars. After the concrete of these supports hardens, the installation of intermediate pillars is carried out. For corner supports made of a 50x50 mm square pipe, reinforcement is provided in the form of an inclined thrust beam.

Step-by-step installation of the grid

You can install a fence from a regular chain-link mesh with your own hands without guides without special equipment, especially if you use ready-made elements for installation and tension. For quick installation, it is recommended to buy all fasteners in advance.

On guides

Chain-link fences along the guides are mounted in two stages:

1. Guides are mounted.
2. A polymer mesh is being installed.

First, we install guides on the pillars. Preliminary fixation is carried out with a mounting wire, then the guides are welded by electric welding.

Then, with the help of plastic clamps, the canvas gradually rises and is fixed on the fence. The final tension and fixation with wire or metal strip is done after and fastened by electric welding. The plastic mesh on the guides is fixed only with wire or special clamps.

Did you know that the installation of a stone, slate or metal profile fence between neighboring summer cottages is prohibited? The fact is that deaf high fences obscure a lot of space, preventing the penetration of light. Given the size of summer cottages, 6-8 acres each, where every meter counts, all plants planted along such fences will get sick and wither. Therefore, complaints from neighbors are inevitable. What to do? A good option is to equip a chain-link fence. It will not interfere with the penetration of sunlight and the movement of air masses. Such fences are popular not only among summer residents, but are also used to protect technical areas, sports grounds, lakes and other bodies of water, chicken coops and other objects.

Rabitz got its name in honor of the bricklayer Karl Rabitz, who filed a patent for her invention at the end of the 19th century. True, then it was used for plastering walls. The chain-link mesh is a low-carbon steel wire, which is woven into a kind of fabric. Spirals of wire are screwed into each other by a special machine, which not only “knits” the mesh, but also immediately rolls it into rolls.

The price of a chain-link fence is much lower than for fences made of other materials, which is an indisputable advantage. Any summer resident or villager can freely purchase a mesh at any building supermarket, store or market, in addition, he will need poles to fix the mesh and reinforcing bars, a cable or thick wire 4-6 mm in diameter.

Types of mesh Rabitsa

To date, there are three types of chain-link mesh on the market, which differ in the material of manufacture:

• non-galvanized from black wire. The unpainted grid The chain-link from ferrous metal will serve not for long, no more than 3 years. In this case, already three to four days after its installation, rust will begin to appear. As a temporary option, such a mesh can be purchased with the expectation that later a fence made of a different material will be put in its place or removed altogether. Otherwise, the ferrous metal mesh must be painted and the paint layer renewed every 4 - 5 years.

• galvanized the grid the Chain-link does not give in to corrosion. At the same time, it is not much more expensive than its counterpart made of ferrous metal. That is why it is so popular all over the world.

• plasticized. This is a mesh made of metal wire, coated on top with a protective anti-corrosion polymer. It looks somewhat more aesthetically pleasing than the previous types and is not afraid of moisture. In our market, such grids appeared relatively recently and have already begun to conquer the summer cottages of our compatriots.

In addition to the material of manufacture, the chain-link mesh may differ in the shape of the cells and their size. The shape, rectangular, diamond-shaped or otherwise, does not really matter. But the size of the cell is extremely important. It can be from 25 mm to 60 mm. The smaller it is, the less the mesh transmits light, more durable and monolithic, but also expensive. Mesh with 60 mm mesh is not suitable for chicken coop fencing, as the mesh is large enough for chickens to crawl through. Therefore, it is necessary to choose the chain-link mesh based on what it will be used for. To protect the summer cottage, so that large animals and people cannot penetrate, use a mesh with cells of 40 - 50 mm. This is quite enough.

The cost of a fence from a chain-link mesh depends on several parameters: mesh material, mesh size, wire thickness in the mesh and how it is attached.

Non-galvanized mesh Chain-link with dimensions 50 * 2.0 * 10 costs about 28 USD. per roll of 10 m. In these dimensions, 50 is the cell size, 2.0 is the wire thickness. By the way, it can be from 1.0 to 2.0 mm. Accordingly, the thinner - the cheaper and lighter the mesh, but less strong and durable.

Galvanized mesh Chain-link 50 * 2.0 * 10 costs 32 USD for 10 m. Agree, the difference is not so great.

The plasticized grid Chain-link 50*2,0*10 costs 48 c.u. for 10 m. This is somewhat more expensive than the previous options, it will be unprofitable for a temporary fence, but just right for a permanent fence.

How to make a chain link fence

There are two ways to arrange a fence from a chain-link mesh:

• Stretch between the pillars;
• Make sections from the corner into which to fix the mesh fragments.

The first way is much easier and cheaper, but less aesthetic and somewhat practical.

For the manufacture of sections, additional considerable costs will be required for a metal corner, the cost of which can exceed the cost of the grid. The sectional fence will be more beautiful, stronger, it will be possible to dry something on it or just hang it.

For both methods, you will need poles on which the grid will be attached.

What are the fences from the chain-link mesh: photos - examples

Mesh fence posts Rabitsa

wooden poles- easy available material in wooded areas, but short-lived. It makes sense to purchase wooden poles or beams only if they are much cheaper than metal ones, or if you are installing a temporary fence. There are situations when wooden building material remains after the construction of a house, for example, a roof. I don’t want to endure extra costs if there is ownerless material.

For arranging fence posts wooden bars must be bark-free. Then they are cut to the required length. Most often, deepening is carried out 10 - 15 cm below the level of soil freezing. So it turns out that the length of the beam will be about 3 m. The entire underground part of the tree must be treated with waterproofing mastic. Fortunately, now the market offers many options for mastics that do not need to be warmed up or somehow prepared, just smeared and that's it. The rest of the beams must be painted, otherwise they will rot six months later - a year after installation. The chain-link mesh is fixed to the tree with the help of nails. From modern materials clamps can be offered, but they will not fit into the general view too organically.

metal poles more preferred, as it is more durable and reliable. Most often, pipes of round or square section with a diameter of 60 - 120 mm are used. The section thickness must be at least 2 mm. To reduce the cost of building a fence from a chain-link mesh, pipes can be purchased at the nearest scrap metal purchase. Sometimes you can pick up a good option water pipes that have lost their tightness, but are not affected by rust. They can no longer be used for water supply, and their tightness does not matter for the fence. AT recent times poles appeared on sale, ready to be used for the construction of a fence. They are painted and with welded hooks. Such pipes will cost a little more, but many associated worries disappear.

You can also use concrete or asbestos-cement pillars, if they are available, but the mesh can be attached to them only with clamps or with the help of a cable, weaving it into the mesh and braiding the pole.

Do-it-yourself stretch fence made of chain-link chain

One of the main advantages of mesh fences is the ease of installation, which can be successfully completed by two people without serious building skills. As an example, consider the construction of a tension fence from a chain-link mesh using metal poles. Grid width - 2 m.

Marking the territory for the fence

First of all, we install temporary pegs in the corners of the site and stretch a building thread or cord between them. We measure the length of the cord - this will be the length of the chain-link mesh, which should be purchased with a margin of 1 - 2 meters, just in case.

Now you need to mark the places for the installation of pillars. The most optimal distance between the posts is 2 - 2.5 m, no more, since the chain-link mesh is a bending material.

To calculate the number of poles needed, divide the length of each side of the site by 2.5. For example, the length is 47 m. This value is not evenly divisible by 2 or 2.5. When divided by 2.5, we get 18.8. We have two ways. The first is to install 19 pillars at an equal distance from each other, 47/19 = 2.47 m. But it is almost impossible to calculate the location of the pillar with such accuracy. The second way is to install 18 pillars at a distance of 2.5 m, and between the latter make the distance a little less. In total, we need to purchase 19 metal pipes.

On a stretched line we make marks at a distance of 2.5 m from each other. We constantly make sure that they are on a straight line.

Important! If the site has a significant slope, it will not work to build a fence from the Rabitz mesh, since it is poorly attached in an inclined position. The only way out of the situation is to terrace the site. In the place of height difference, install a more powerful and longer pole, to which a mesh section will be attached on one side at one level, and on the other side - on another. To do this, the mesh canvas will have to be divided. The second option is to equip a sectional fence.

Pole installation

In the places marked under the pillars, we drill wells with a drill or dig with a shovel. Depth 1.2 - 1.5 m. So that the pillars do not move during the spring swelling of the soil, they must be installed below the freezing depth of the soil by 15 - 20 cm, i.e. to a depth of 0.8 - 1.2 m.

We will install the corner posts first, as they will have the greatest pressure, and even uneven. At the bottom of the well we fall asleep a layer of rubble and carefully tamp. Then a layer of sand and also tamp.

Then we install the pipe, having previously treated the underground part with anti-corrosion mastic. Cooking cement mortar one part sand and two parts cement. Stir, then add two parts of crushed stone and mix again, fill with water and mix again. It is important to check that the solution is not too liquid. Then pour the solution into the hole around the pipe.

Important! Be sure to control the vertical position of the column with a plumb line.

We pierce the concrete with a bayonet shovel, shaking and compacting it. The second in a row we install the corner post on the opposite side. Then all the other pillars according to the described technology, be sure to control the evenness of their location relative to each other. To do this, we have a thread stretched - we check it.

Further work can be continued only after the concrete has completely hardened, i.e. a week later.

Sometimes metal poles are not concreted, but simply a layer of rubble stone or a savage is poured into the empty space of the pit, they are carefully rammed, then a layer of soil is poured, they are also rammed, and rubble stone is again on top. This method of fastening is also good, the pillars are tightly fixed in adjacent planes. A little concrete can be added to the last layer of stone, this will increase the strength of the structure.

Stretching the chain-link mesh and fixing it on poles

When the concrete dries, we weld hooks onto the posts, on which we will attach the Rabitz mesh. To do this, you can use nails, screws, thick wire, pieces of rod or other improvised material that can be bent into a hook.

The next stage in the manufacture of a fence from a chain-link mesh is stretching the mesh. First of all, we straighten the roll. Then we install it near the first corner post. We fix the net by hanging it on hooks. For greater strength, we thread a thick wire or reinforcing bar with a cross section of 3-4 mm into the first row of mesh cells (in a vertical position). After the mesh is hung on hooks, we weld this rod to the pipe. This will prevent the mesh from sagging and bending.

We rewind the grid one span to the nearest post. A little further than the junction of the grid with the pole, we thread a rod into it in a vertical position. Holding on to it, we will pull the net. If we just pull it with our hands, the tension will be uneven. Together, one is closer to the upper edge, the other - to the bottom, we stretch the grid. For convenience, you can invite a third participant in the process, who will put the net on the hooks at this time.

Then we thread the rods, cable or wire into the grid in a horizontal plane at a distance of 5 - 20 cm from the top edge and also from the bottom. Sometimes it is advised to use 5 rods at an equal distance from each other. We weld them to the pole. These rods will serve as a supporting support for the mesh so that it does not sag over time.

We repeat the procedure for all other pillars, acting according to the same algorithm: we stretch, fix, stretch the rod, weld.

Important! Do not bypass the corner posts with a grid. It is better to fix it on a pole, separate it, fix the cells of the second part of the canvas and continue to stretch the mesh with a separate canvas. This is necessary in order to reduce the load on the poles.

One roll of mesh may not be enough to close all the spans between the posts. There may be such a situation that there is a meter of the grid left, and up to the next column 2.5 m. In this case, we remove the wire from the extreme row of the grid, apply the ending web to the new roll and weave the wire between them. The result should be a continuous mesh without seams.

When the entire area is fenced, we bend the hooks on all the poles. If there is a piece of an unnecessary mesh left, we take out the wire, separating the mesh, stepping back one cell after fixing it on the pole.

The final touch - the poles must be painted so that they do not corrode. If you do not plan to use welding, but fix the mesh with clamps or wire, then you can paint the poles even before starting work on stretching the mesh.

We twist the upper antennae of the wire from which the mesh is made, twisting one or two turns together and wrapping it down so that they do not injure anyone. Sometimes a cable or wire is threaded into the upper row of cells and the whiskers of the wire are twisted around it. On this, our chain-link fence is ready.

Do-it-yourself sectional fence from the chain-link chain

A similar fence device from a chain-link mesh differs from a tension one by the presence of a frame of sections into which the mesh is mounted.

The first stages of work: marking and installing pillars are no different from arranging a tension fence. The poles should be a little stronger, as they will have to carry a much larger load.

We purchase a corner 30 * 4 or 40 * 5 mm. From it we weld the frame for the fence sections. To do this, we subtract 10 - 20 cm from the distance between the pillars, this will be the length of the frame. From the height of the column above the ground, we also subtract 10 - 15 cm, this will be the width of the frame. Weld the corners in the form of a rectangle.

Then we unwind the chain-link mesh roll. If there is a need, we reduce its dimensions in height to the required ones, cutting off the excess with a grinder. The second option is to make the section size - 2 m (according to the width of the mesh) and deploy the mesh roll in a vertical position, separating the excess from below.

In the extreme row we pass a rod with a section of 4 - 5 mm. We weld it to vertical rack corner frame. Then we thread the rods into the upper and lower rows of the grid, carefully stretch it and also weld the rods to the horizontal corners of the frame. We also act with the last vertical rack. As a result, we should get a section welded from a corner, inside of which a chain-link mesh is welded onto rods.

We weld metal strips 15 - 30 cm long, 5 cm wide and 5 mm in cross section in a horizontal position to the posts. We retreat 20 - 30 cm from the upper and lower edges of the post. We install the section between the posts and weld it to the strips.

After all the welding work, the fence must be painted - everything is ready.

As you can see, making a chain-link fence is not so difficult. It will take patience, two or three people and good mood. And if the description of the fence installation technology in words is not clear to you, we suggest watching a visual video.

How to make a fence from a chain-link mesh: video - instructions

Wire mesh is an ideal material for lightweight fencing. It does not obscure the light, and therefore is widely used for fencing beds, gardens, marking the boundaries of neighboring areas. To put up a chain-link fence with your own hands, you do not need to be an experienced craftsman, it is enough just to familiarize yourself with and choose the right materials.

Fence materials

The appearance, durability and cost of a chain-link fence directly depends on the quality of the mesh. Metal grid available in three versions:

• non-galvanized;
• galvanized;
• plasticized.

The cheapest of all. It is not suitable for permanent fencing, as it begins to rust after the first rain. Usually untreated black mesh lasts no more than 3-4 years. To extend the service life, the non-galvanized chain-link should be coated either with paint or with special compounds, which, after application, form a water-repellent coating on the mesh. Periodically, such processing must be repeated, which as a result is more expensive than the purchase of a galvanized mesh.

Moisture is not afraid and does not require protective treatment. Her appearance is much more attractive, such a grid looks especially good in sectional fences. The cost of galvanized mesh is higher than regular black mesh, but since it lasts longer and does not need to be painted every 2-3 years, this option is more practical.

plasticized mesh It has a special polymer coating that is resistant to corrosion. The coating is not only durable, but also a variety of colors, so you can choose a mesh to match the main fence or roof of the house. The most popular is the netting of blue and green, less often you can see a white, red or yellow mesh fence.

Special attention should be paid to the supporting pillars of the fence. Chain-link mesh can be attached to metal pipes, steel profiles, concrete posts and even wooden posts.

The most convenient and practical supports are square metal pipes. Manufacturers offer pipes with hooks already welded on, especially for installing mesh fences. To reduce the cost of installing the fence, used pipes are also used, and the hooks are welded on their own. In addition, hooking is not the only option, it is possible to fix the mesh with steel wire.

How to calculate the amount of materials

The most popular for the manufacture of fences is considered to be a chain-link mesh with a width of 1.5 m and mesh sizes of 40-50 mm. A standard roll of mesh has a length of 10 m. To prevent the mesh from sagging, support posts must be installed in increments of 2-2.5 m. This means that no more than 5 posts will be required per roll. The above-ground part of the supports should exceed the width of the grid by 10 cm, and the posts should be dug into the ground by 1/3 of their height.

So, if you need to install a chain-link fence 30 m long and 1.5 m high, you will need 3 rolls of mesh and 16 posts 2.3-2.5 m long to work. 3 hooks should be attached to each post - top, bottom and middle . Multiplying the number of supports by 3, they find out how many hooks will be needed. If the fence is sectional, the number of metal corners for the frame is additionally calculated. The height of each section is equal to the width of the grid, and the length of the run is 2-2.5 m. The most convenient corner for a 40x40 mm frame with a thickness of 5 mm.

Netting prices

Rabitz

Tension fence manufacturing

Tension fencing made of chain-link mesh is faster than sectional fencing, and is cheaper. The installation process includes marking, preparation of pits for poles, installation of poles and fence canvas.

For work you will need:

Step 1. Marking the site

They take wooden pegs and a long string and start marking. First you need to determine the location of the extreme pillars. In these places, pegs are driven in, a twine is pulled between them at a height of 10 cm above the ground. If the fence line has breaks, a beacon is also placed on each of them and a rope is fixed. Further along the marking line, it is necessary to drive in pegs where the intermediate supports will stand. The distance between the pegs must be the same and correspond to the width of the run.

Step 2. Preparing holes for poles

In places marked with pegs, holes are made with a garden drill from 80 to 120 cm deep. The denser the soil, the shallower the depth. The diameter of the holes should be slightly larger than the diameter of the posts. At the bottom of each pit, a sand cushion 10 cm thick is arranged.

Step 3. Installation of load-bearing poles

Prepare pipes: clean their surface from oil stains and rust, grind, weld hooks. The welding points are cleaned, the scale is removed, and then the pipes are primed and painted. After that, the columns are lowered into the pits, leveled, strengthened with spacers. If all supports have the same height and are located strictly in one line, you can fill. During the pouring process, the mortar is pierced several times with a steel bar to remove air bubbles from the concrete.

Step 4. Attaching the chain-link mesh

To fix the net on the poles, the roll does not need to be unwound. It is lifted vertically, put on the first support and hooked on hooks. If there are no hooks, the mesh is screwed with steel wire in three or four places. It is recommended to leave 10-15 cm between the surface of the earth and the lower edge of the grid. It can also be attached close to the soil, but then the cells will quickly become entangled with grass, debris, branches, and fallen leaves will accumulate under the fence.

Having fixed the chain-link on the first pillar, they move on to the second. The roll is unwound for 2-2.5 m, put on a support and the mesh is pulled. In order for the tension to be uniform, a steel bar 1.5 m long is threaded into the cells along the height of the roll. It is best to perform this process with an assistant: one person pulls the mesh, the other fastens it with wire or hooks it.

Even a tightly stretched netting sags over time, especially at the top. Reinforcing wire or long steel bars threaded into cells along the perimeter of the fence at a distance of 5-7 cm from the top and welded to the posts will help to avoid this. Sometimes the wire is threaded both from above and along the lower edge, stepping back from the ground 20 cm. Finally, the ends of the wire and hooks are bent inward, plugs are put on all the support posts.

Production of a sectional fence

The marking and installation of support posts for a sectional fence is carried out according to the technology described above. The only difference is that the posts should not be with hooks, but with welded metal plates. These plates have dimensions of 15x5 cm and a thickness of 5 mm; they are welded from above and below to the racks, stepping back from the edges by 20 cm.

To assemble the sections you will need:

• Rabitz;
• steel corners 40x40 mm;
• Bulgarian;
• roulette;
• rebar bars.

Step 1. Assembling the frame

Measure the distance between the bearing columns and subtract 15-20 cm from it - this will be the width of the frame from the corners. The height of the section is equal to the width of the grid or the height of the column minus 20 cm. The steel corners are cut to the size of the section and into a rectangle. Then the scale is removed, the inner and outer surfaces of the frame are ground.

Step 2 Preparing the Mesh

A chain-link roll is laid on the ground, unwound 2-2.5 m and carefully cut with a grinder in width. Now reinforcing bars are threaded into the extreme rows of cells on each side. The rods do not need to be connected to each other.

Step 3 Mounting the section

The mesh is laid on the frame and the upper reinforcement is welded to the inside of the corner. Next, the mesh is well pulled down and the lower rod is welded, after which the sides are fixed. The finished section is lifted vertically to the posts and welded to the metal plates. You can also fix the section with bolts by drilling a hole of the desired diameter in the protruding part of the plate.

When mounting the next section, it is necessary to ensure that the edges of adjacent frames are in line. Even a difference of 1-2 cm will be noticeable and will give the fence a sloppy look. Finally, the sections are primed and painted. Thus, you can make a fence of any size without much hassle.

Video - Do-it-yourself chain-link fence