home materials

In stalinka, it is very blowing from under the door. How to insulate the front door. Internal insulation of entrance metal doors

This article contains all the information on what to do if it is blowing from the front door, and how to prevent the possibility of drafts when installing a new door.

If the source of drafts in your house or apartment is the front door, you are unlikely to be satisfied with such a solution to the problem, which is shown in the picture above. It is no less inconvenient to curtain them with old blankets, creating a barrier to cold air.

Only a sealed front door can allow you to feel comfortable in your own home, which will not let in not only cold air, but also extraneous noises and smells from the street.

But how to achieve this?

There are several options for solving the problem:

Glue a seal around the perimeter of the canvas.
Fully insulate the canvas, sheathing it so that the insulation covers the gaps between the box and the canvas.
Completely replace the canvas.

If you are just building your house, you can immediately make sure that this question never arises before you.

Eliminate drafts from an existing door

This problem is especially relevant in suburban housing, since there the front door often goes directly to the street or to a cold unheated vestibule.

Although in apartment building a draft from the door is a very unpleasant phenomenon, even if the entrance is warm. After all, cigarette smoke and other unpleasant odors.

Traditional sealing is gluing a self-adhesive seal in the form of a rubber band around the perimeter of the box.

Unfortunately, this method is not very reliable.

Firstly, with the active operation of the door, the seal quickly becomes unusable and has to be changed.
Secondly, the slightest misalignment will lead to the fact that the seal will no longer fit snugly against the door and perform its function efficiently.

In addition, it is possible to glue a strip of sealant correctly only if the door is perfectly level. If there is a different distance between the leaf and the box in different places, the rubber band will not fit snugly to all parts of the door.

With this arrangement, the sealing tape will provide better tightness of the door even if it is deformed and sagging, as it will have a greater degree of freedom.

Whatever the initial position of the canvas relative to the box, the sealant will work to suppress drafts precisely because of its advantageous location.

Instead of the traditional self-adhesive tape, you can use round-section polyethylene foam sealing cord or rubber tube made of resistant rubber for this purpose.

And do not be confused by the lack of an adhesive base on them: in this case, Moment glue will help you out perfectly.

Lubricate the frame around the entire perimeter with glue in the place where the seal should be located.
Cut the tape to the desired length, cutting the edges at a 45 degree angle to fit at the corners.
Lubricate the side of the seal with which it will be glued with glue.
After holding time, which for Moment glue is 15 minutes, close the door and apply a rubber band to the end of the box in such a way as to ensure its tight fit to the door. Press it down with your hands for a few seconds.

Attention! It takes a day for the glue to dry completely, so try to use the door carefully on the first day.

Of course, this method also has its drawbacks - the seal can be torn off by accidentally hooking it with something. But it will not be difficult to correct the situation by re-gluing it in its place.

As mentioned above, if it blows from the front door, it can be completely insulated, making sure that the insulation is slightly larger than the box and covers all the existing gaps.

For this, rollers are specially made, which are attached around the perimeter of the door leaf.

Sometimes these rollers are attached to the door frame. You will understand what in question if you look at the photo from the side.

And how to insulate the door, you can read in more detail in other materials on the site. This may also be required if you have an old wooden door, the canvas of which has dried up, and through cracks have formed in it.

If the front door is blowing despite your best efforts, make sure that cold air is not getting in through the large keyhole. Otherwise, you will just have to replace the door.

How to prevent drafts from the door

Experienced builders know that the front door to a house or apartment can only be installed after all “wet” work is completed - laying partitions, plastering, puttying, whitewashing, etc.

Especially if it is a wooden door that is sensitive to high humidity air.

When all this work in the new house is completed, and you go to order new door, think over your requirements for it in advance. It is clear that it should be strong and reliable, but when it blows from the front door, there is little pleasant in this.

Therefore, do not forget to clarify how its sealing will be ensured.

Now there are new models of entrance doors, the boxes of which have a special configuration - a three-stage one.

An additional ledge does not let cold air, dust, moisture and foreign odors into the room.

This configuration has all door frame, including the threshold, which is not mounted separately, but is integral with the door frame.

Installing such doors will save you from having to think about how to eliminate drafts.

There are a number of rules by which entrance and interior doors are installed. When installing them in accordance with GOST, there are many options for how to close the gap, which must be mandatory. The gap ensures unhindered opening and closing of the web, even if it swells or is slightly skewed.

Clearance standards for standard door

Rules for mounting a door with a gap

The ease of use of the door structure depends on whether the gaps are correctly formed and the door is installed. If there is an increase in humidity, the wooden door will most likely expand, which will lead to difficulties with opening and closing it.

Note! Too large a gap, especially when it comes to the front door, does not guarantee reliableherlocking in the closed position.

There are clear standards according to which the gaps between the frame and the door leaf should be formed. And it all depends on the size of the canvas, that is, the height, width and weight of the door are taken into account. At the same time, some errors are allowed, for example, if the distance between the jamb and the canvas should be 5 mm in size, then 4-6 mm is considered the norm.

Standard door kit

If there is a standard door set with dimensions of 200x60x90 cm, then the gap on all sides should be 3-4mm. It is allowed to form a gap up to 5 mm if:

high humidity in the room and ventilation is needed;
The doors are made of a material that absorbs moisture very well.

It is worth paying attention to the distance from the threshold to the canvas. At normal conditions it is 2-2.5 cm. If you need to provide improved ventilation and unhindered opening, then the distance can be increased to 4 cm.

door seal

Gap rules

In order to avoid the problem of sealing too large or developing small gaps, the door must initially be installed correctly. To do this, follow a few simple rules during installation:

During the installation of the box for primary gaps, you need to leave 1-2 cm, because during the hardening process the foam swells and presses on the box. In the process of this, it is impossible to create the correct gaps.
When the foam has already dried and completely hardened, you can begin to form gaps. To do this, on the sides and top between the canvas and the box, you need to put a material that has the required thickness. In the case of a standard box and canvas size, this is 3-4 mm. In this case, packing cardboard from under the door kit is best suited. It's just that thick.
To prevent displacement of the box in the opening, it should be jammed.
Check door balance. To do this, you can use the building level. Despite its weight, the canvas must firmly "sit" on the wedges. In this case, the supporting structure in the open form should not move.

As a result, after removing the wedges and spacers, the door structure must maintain an even geometry, and the gaps must remain in the dimensions that were planned during their formation.

Option to remove the draft

The gap is wrong, what should I do?

Situations where the gap is very small or large are common. In the first case, it is necessary to reduce the door leaf, in the second - insulation (closing) of the gap.

The first step is to check if the box is warped, for this you should use the building level. Must be observed:

Diagonals - the distance between opposite corners is equal.
Angles should all be 90 degrees.

If the gap is too small, you can carry out the following manipulations:

Peel off the paint, especially wooden painted doors that are many years old. The layering of paint over time greatly reduces the gap.
If there is no paint, then use a hand planer to cut off the contours until a normal gap is formed.

If the gaps are very large (for a standard canvas - more than 6 mm), actions are needed to insulate and close the gap. This is especially important if the door is the entrance, because the presence of too much distance between the box and the canvas leads to:

Deterioration of protective qualities. Such a door can be easily cracked, and therefore, penetrate into the room.
During the winter months, the cold comes in.
Sound transmission improves, which does not contribute to comfort.

Note! If the door set (frame and leaf) have certificates, in accordance with state standards, there should be no problems with gaps for the front door. The question of how to close the gap will not arise.

Multi-chamber sealing tape

We warm the gap

There are many options for closing the gap between the door and the box. Before insulating the canvas, you need to decide how much you need to reduce the gap.

Through the slots, which are mandatory, it often blows, they do not provide sound insulation. In addition, the seal prevents the door from slamming. When choosing a sealing material, it is worth starting not so much from aesthetics and ease of installation as from insulating qualities.

Crack filling materials:

Sealing (heat-insulating) strip.
silicone mass.
Other options.

Each method is used depending on where the door is installed and the size of the gap.

Sealing tapes (self-adhesive)

Bands can be rubber or plastic. Regardless of the material, they are inexpensive and easy to install. It is easiest to work with self-adhesive strips. On the one hand, they have an adhesive layer, which, provided that the surface is prepared for gluing, adheres tightly.

Double sealing "self-adhesive"

There are tapes of various thicknesses and widths. They can cover gaps of various sizes. Their only downside is that they need to be replaced over time, especially if the door is permanently closed. In this case, the tape is compressed and reduced in size - this worsens its functionality.

Clean the place of installation from dust and degrease.
Measure the required length of the tape, cut it off with a small margin (up to 1 cm).
Separate protective film by 5-10 cm.
Attach the tape to the door frame, it is best to start from the top of the corner.
As gluing, free from protective paper.
Press the tape firmly during installation.

In places where hinges are mounted, glue should be on the front surface of the stopper or on the inner surface of the web. In the corners, the joints of the tape should be clearly cut.

Strips without self-adhesive

They are the same in quality as the first type, the only thing they do not have is a self-adhesive layer. This somewhat reduces the cost of them, also such options have a different installation method.

Tape installation sequence:

Clean the door jamb of dust.
Measure the required length of tape.
Close the door, in this position, put the tape on the jamb, so that it fits snugly against it, even rests against the door.
Nail to the jamb with short nails.

Thus, the door frame is upholstered completely. The distance between the nails is no more than 10 cm.

Insulation without adhesive

silicone paste

Or easier - building silicone. It is sold in small tubes, transparent or white. To apply the composition, you need a special gun, which can be found in a hardware store. The process of how to seal cracks with silicone:

To avoid contamination of the door surface, you must first cover those places where work will not be carried out with petroleum jelly.
Insert the tube into the gun.
Trim the tip so that the thickness of the silicone strip when extruding is slightly larger than necessary to close the gap.
The gun should be held at a 45 degree angle to the jamb.
Gently pressing the trigger on the gun will start pushing the silicone out of the tube.
The movement of the gun must be smooth so as not to squeeze out the excess.
After completing the treatment of all surfaces, close the door and wait until the silicone has dried. The specific drying time is indicated on the tube with the material.
After the time has elapsed, open the door and remove excess silicone.

Sealing the joints in this way is convenient, because the silicone will take the form it needs.

Other Methods

Among them:

Stuffing wooden glazing beads (thin slats) in places where there are gaps.
Stuffing strips of felt, other dense fabric.
The threshold can be insulated by stuffing a strip of soft rubber, special silicone curtains or “brushes” along the lower edge of the door leaf. The latter option will not only provide thermal insulation, but also maintain ventilation in the room.

Conclusion

Methods for insulating and closing the gaps between the frame and the door leaf depend on the size of the gap, financial capabilities and the type of door material. You can implement any insulation with your own hands, without much physical effort.

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There is nothing superfluous in home insulation. The ceiling, floor, windows and walls must be carefully insulated. Then the apartment will be warm and cozy. In this situation, insulation plays an important role. After all, the drafts coming from it bring a lot of trouble. But the insulation of the front door must also be done correctly. This article describes in detail how to insulate the front door, given helpful tips specialists.

Most often it blows due to cracks that have appeared. But their elimination is not a big problem.

Attention

You can test for the presence of gaps. To do this, bring a burning match to closed door and run it along the existing joints. If the fire trembles in a certain place, it is leaking.

Reasons for the appearance of a draft:

Installation is incorrect. A gap is formed between the wall surface and the box.
subsidence. The reason for this may be the subsidence of the wall. To eliminate the deficiency, you need to invite the installation wizard. He must reinstall the door structure.
The door block is cheap, without a seal. AT this case a seal is required under the door space. It will protect against drafts.
The seal does not provide a good seal and must be replaced.
Air from the street enters the house through the key of the lock. Modern models of locks with a special curtain close this hole. You can put them.
The entrance wooden door became narrower under the influence of cold air, cracks formed. You need to buy another seal.

What to do, how can you insulate and seal the door structure?

Since the main cause of drafts is cracks, you need to get rid of them by pasting the door leaf with insulation. It is recommended to do this around the perimeter and in separate parts of the door leaf.

If the door knocks repeatedly during the day, opens and closes, the seal wears out quickly, drafts appear. You can damage it by hitting it with outerwear or objects brought into the room and other objects.

Before the start of work you need to inspect the structure and make sure that the hinges are not sagging, and the sash opens well. Skews of the canvas also have a negative effect on the seal: it begins to touch the floor or slopes.

To eliminate the disadvantage, you can glue the space between the threshold and the door with a heater.

The following types of insulation are suitable:

To glue the bottom of the door frame, use self-adhesive tape or a polyethylene sealing cord.
rubber tube.
Self-adhesive rubber.

But you should take into account the width of the space between the threshold and the bottom of the door leaf. If the seal is too thick, it will not fit in width. The adhesive base of the insulation is self-adhesive, but also not always well done. It is better to use Moment glue.

How to glue?

The work is easy. Even people with no experience can cope with it. The process consists of several stages:

Coating the perimeter with glue. It is necessary to apply it from the bottom of the canvas and the upper part of the threshold.
Heating preparation. You need to measure it and cut it into pieces of the required size. On both sides, bend the ends at an angle of 45 degrees.
Apply glue to the insulating layer of the insulation. Dotted at the same distance or a thin strip.
Glue the insulation 10-15 minutes after applying the adhesive. Then press it to the surface, close the sash and hold it in this position for at least 10 minutes.
During the day, you need to open it as little as possible, make sure that the seal does not move. The period of full adhesion lasts for a day.

The described methods for eliminating cracks are the cheapest and simplest. Before the start of warming, you need to correctly assess your capabilities. If there are no skills or little time, it is better to contact the master. But, following simple recommendations, you can quickly, efficiently insulate the front door yourself.

Useful video

Video about the features of the insulation of entrance doors:

Even the most good doors over time, they can begin to creak or sag: no one can cancel the force of gravity and friction. And if you have heavy steel ones, then even metal will get tired of holding them. After the summer, plastic ones also “sag” - they almost always remain open in the heat, which leads to such results. There is no need to endure these "outrages", as well as spend money on their elimination. Adjusting the front doors is a delicate matter, but in most cases you can do it on your own. Once you adjust the loops and the porch with your own hands, you can then easily repeat.

Adjustment of a metal entrance door

creak;
draft - blowing from under the canvas (slits around the perimeter or top / bottom);
hard to close.

The solution to all these problems is called "adjusting the front door", but this includes very different measures - from banal lubrication and replacement of the seal, to the actual adjustments and mechanical effects.

Sometimes, to fix the problem, you need to go through all the methods, and sometimes the problem that has arisen can only be fixed radically - by replacement. Most often, this situation occurs with cheap Chinese products. Adjustment of entrance doors made in China is almost impossible. Of course, you can try to do something with your own hands: firms and craftsmen do not undertake them.

Eliminate the creak

Doors can creak for two reasons: the hinge grease is clogged or the door leaf touches the frame. Although both are called “creaking”, the nature of the sound is different. It is easier to cope with the clogging of the loops, therefore they usually start with this procedure.

Hinge lubrication

First, remove the old grease, at the same time removing the dirt adhering to it. The procedure is standard: wipe with a soft cloth wherever traces are visible. If this procedure has not been done for several years, and the loops are of the standard classical type, and even detachable, the canvas can be removed. Better to clean when removed.

If the hinges are rusty and won't come off as they should, don't try to knock them down with a hammer or sledgehammer. Do more harm than help. Better buy a rust remover. It is usually sold in the form of sprays. Apply to a rusted hinge and wait for the set time. Then remove the fabric from the hinges and clean. But this time it is necessary to remove all the rust. To bare metal, then coat with a rust converter and only then with grease.

After the old grease is removed, take the "fresh" one and apply it to the hinges. If the canvas is removed, there will be no problems - lubricate the pin and ring. If any other rubbing mechanisms are visible on the frame, lubricate them as well.

In traditional type hinges, squeaking may occur due to the fact that the washer on the stem has worn off. You inspect it after you have removed the door leaf. If it shows signs of wear, replace it. Install a new hard metal washer. Instead, you can put an engraver. He will also compensate for the load.

If the hinges are one-piece, find a can of liquid lubricant (WD40 is the most common) or machine oil that can be applied with a large syringe. Handle all moving parts carefully.

There is another method, but it is destructive. A hole is drilled in the upper part of the hinge, which is then filled with grease. The whole trick is not to damage the mechanism that is inside.

If the hinges are hidden, find all the turning parts and lubricate them. Often in such models there are holes into which oil is applied.

After applying the lubricant, swing the doors several times from side to side, distributing the lubricant. If this was the reason, the creak goes away. The final touch is to wipe off excess oil.

How to lubricate front door hinges

It is necessary to choose a lubricant, first of all, according to the temperatures at which the loop is operated. If the hinges go outside, a composition is needed that does not thicken at low temperatures. There is not much choice here:

Litol. Reliably works at temperatures from -40°C to +120°C.
Solidol. The temperature range is slightly lower, but also sufficient: from -35°C to +65°C.

For entrance doors facing the entrance and operated at positive temperatures, a few more items can be added to this list:

Eliminate friction on the box

If, after processing the hinges, the creak remains, most likely it is caused by the friction of the door leaf on the box. Inspect the door frame for wear. If you find any signs of abrasion, see which of the loops is closer. It will need to be regulated, if possible.

The difficulty lies in the fact that there are a lot of types and models of loops and it is impossible to say unambiguously what needs to be done. All that is possible is to list the main points that can be. Based on these, you may be able to determine how to "heal" your door.

Two types of hinges for an entrance metal door with adjustment

Standard hinges are not adjustable. In this case, the adjustment of the entrance doors consists in replacing the washer. They are selected with greater or lesser thickness, adjusting the position of the door leaf. Some hinges with a ball at the top have an adjustment screw. By unscrewing it, we raise the door a little, twisting it - we lower it. You can try to correct the situation with it.

If standard hinges on a steel door are welded, we can assume that this has exhausted the possibilities. If they are seated on screws, the fixing screws are loosened, moving the sash in the desired direction as far as possible. Then the screws are tightened. Check if the problem is gone. If not, try with another loop. Sometimes it is required to loosen all the loops, and pull the canvas in this position. In general, decide on the place where to press, and where to press.

There are models of hinges in which the adjustment holes are hidden under a protective cap. But it’s impossible to remove it just like that: it is fixed with a bolt, which is unscrewed from the inside of the room. An example of adjusting such a loop in the video.

If the hinges on the front door are screwed, you can eliminate the friction of the door leaf on the frame with their help. First, loosen the screws near where the wear is. Try to move the door leaf a little. To begin with, you can knock with your palm or fist, moving it in the right direction. Try opening/closing a couple of times. Did it help? Screw the clamping screws back. And try opening/closing again.

If it doesn’t help, you can use some kind of leverage, hit rubber mallet or with a hammer through the board. But don't overdo it. Especially gently should be handled with Chinese products: they are very flimsy.

If these manipulations also did not give anything, you will have to loosen the screws on all the hinges and try to move the canvas over the entire area. Take hold of the edge of the canvas with your hands and sway it. In this case, the loops should fall into place. Try to open close. If there is no squeak, tighten the bolts. That's all, adjusting the hinges of the front door cannot give more. The next thing to try is to change the geometry of the door frame. More on this in the next paragraph.

The photo above (right picture) shows a hinge with the ability to adjust. By loosening the screws, you can turn the adjusting screw. It does not help - we are trying to move the canvas, as described above.

Eliminate a loose porch (blowing from under the door)

Sometimes there is a noticeable breeze from under the front door. If you examine the perimeter, you will most likely find that in some place the fit of the door leaf to door frame loose. There may be a decent size gap. You can check your suspicions with a piece of paper. Open the doors, insert a piece of paper between the canvas and the jamb and close the doors. If the porch is normal, the paper is either pulled with a lot of effort, or it is pinched so that it cannot be removed. Just break. If the sheet is removed freely, then the fit is insufficient.

The simplest explanation is that the seal has lost its elasticity. If the doors are several years old, it is possible. And the first step is to change the seal. Did it help or only partially solve the problem? We move on.

Replacing the seal is the first step if it comes through from under the front door

If the canvas is displaced relative to the door in a horizontal plane, we try to eliminate the draft from under the front door first by shifting the door leaf. This is written above: loosen the fastening screws on the hinges, then try to move the canvas in the right direction. Check the result - the gap has disappeared - tighten all the screws to their original position.

Sometimes gaps under the front door occur due to the distortion of the door frame. This is checked with a level. Most likely, it skewed in the place where the sheet of paper is freely removed. The second option, on the contrary, the box is stuck out in the place where the sheet is pressed, due to the fact that the "normal" part cannot be pressed. All this is determined with the help of an eye and a level. Having determined what the problem is, we are trying to return the geometry to normal. Measures depend on how the box is installed:

See the video for the option to correct the gap in the porch. After front door installation it turned out that it was blowing strongly from under it. The owner corrected the warp with a hammer.

We eliminate the sagging of the door (shuffling on the threshold)

If, after several years of operation, the doors began to open with difficulty, while rubbing against the threshold, most likely the fact is that the ball or bearings have worn out. If possible, there are adjustments, you don’t even have to remove them. Just unscrew one of the bolts and lift it up slightly.

If there is no adjustment, there are several options:

hinge replacement;
replacement of bearings with new ones;
installation instead of bearing washers.

All this is determined based on the situation and the design of the loop.

Adjustment of plastic entrance doors

Problems can be the same: friction, creaking hinges and a loose connection to the frame, which can blow. But adjusting PVC doors is easier - hinges and mechanisms are standardized, there are not so many types. So there is hope that you can handle the problems with your own hands, without calling the master.

Balcony door adjustment

after summer plastic doors they sag on the balcony: in summer they often remain open for a long time, which is why such a nuisance happens. Then they touch the threshold, an unpleasant sound is heard, the plastic is erased. In this case, you need to lift the canvas up. This is done using the adjustment, which is located at the top of the lower loop.

They do this with the lock open, but the door is closed. Take a hex wrench (usually 4 or 5) and insert it into the hole, turn it a few turns. It is not necessary to immediately lift it strongly, as this can cause other problems. Raise only until the problem is fixed.

Sometimes, when closing, the doors rub from the side, touching the metal latches. It turns out that you need to move the canvas towards the hinged part. To do this, there is another adjustment on the same loop. It is located below, visible when the door is open.

This adjustment is also carried out with a couple of turns clockwise or counterclockwise. If you need to keep the doors from rubbing against the post, turn counterclockwise. Take a couple turns and check. Once the problem is gone, stop. Otherwise, you can move so much that the lock will no longer “cling” to the counterpart.

If the upper left corner “clings”, you need to adjust the loop that is at the top. The principle is the same: one or two turns, until the trouble is eliminated.

Top hinge adjustment - top left corner pressure

Clamp adjustment (so as not to see through)

Sometimes a weak pressure is observed from the side of the castle part. It seems that the canvas adjoins exactly, but it pulls noticeably from under the door. In summer this is not a problem, but with the onset of cold weather, it significantly reduces the temperature. There are two ways. The first is to adjust the clamping pins. These are metal protrusions on the sash.

They are of two kinds. as in the photo above - oval, and round, but with an eccentric in the middle. The position of this element determines the degree of pressure of the sash against the frame. The way to change the position depends on the shape of the trunnion. If it is the same as in the photo, take the pliers, clamp and turn slightly. Maximum pressure if the long side is turned horizontally, minimum - if it is directed vertically upwards. There are also all intermediate options.

If there is an eccentric in the center of the pin, then there is also a hole for the hexagon. Insert it and turn, achieving the desired degree of pressure.

It is not recommended to set the maximum value to the stasis: the seals will quickly lose their elasticity. Also make sure that all eccentrics are rotated the same way. This guarantees the normal operation of the fittings.

But sometimes there is a situation that the sash is not tightly pressed balcony door from the hinge side. This is also eliminated by adjusting the loops. Below it is under a protective cap. Take it off (pull up). Take the key (hexagon) and adjust the pressure of the lower right corner of the plastic balcony door with a couple of turns.

There are also hidden hinges on the frame, which also have the ability to adjust the pressure. They are located on the frame from the side of the hinges. Adjustment with the same hex wrench. Turns "clockwise" and "counterclockwise".

Adjustment of plastic doors

There are different hinges on the plastic entrance doors, and there is no lock-and-tilt fittings. They have closed overhead loops. They have three settings:

the height of the door leaf relative to the frame - from the bottom of the hinge;
the density of pressing the canvas to the frame - on top of the loop;
sash movement horizontally - sideways

They are enough if the doors were initially installed correctly: the limits of change in positions are significant, which makes it possible to compensate for the changes that occurred during operation.

If a creak occurs in the hinges, they must be lubricated. To do this, remove the top cap and into the opened hole, into which grease is placed. Since plastic doors are placed as entrance doors mainly in private houses and they go out into the street or into an unheated vestibule, you select a lubricant that does not thicken at low temperatures (Litol and Solidol).

Apply lubricant here

In some models of hinges, the cap is simply pushed on, in others, you need to unscrew it, and then pull it out. Decide on a place.

Sometimes a situation arises when intervention is required: the lock is poorly fixed. If the sash pressure is normal, the striker needs to be corrected. She is mobile in such doors. Loosen the mounting screws, use a screwdriver to move the bar a little in the right direction and tighten the screws back. You check. Should help.

This article has collected all the data on what to do if it blows from the front door, and how to prevent the possibility of drafts when installing a new door.

If the front door is the source of drafts in your house or apartment, you are unlikely to be satisfied with such a solution to the problem, which is shown in the picture above. no less uncomfortable to curtain them with shabby blankets, creating a barrier to cold air.

Only a hermetic front door can allow you to feel comfortable at home, which will not let in not only cold air space, but also extraneous noises and smells from the street. But how to achieve this?

There are a couple of options for solving the problem:

Glue a seal around the perimeter of the canvas.
Completely insulate the canvas by sheathing it so that the insulation covers the gaps between the canvas and the box.
Completely replace the canvas.

In the event that you are only building your house, it is possible to immediately take care that this issue does not, under any circumstances, come up before you.

Eliminate drafts from an existing door

This trouble is especially relevant in suburban housing, since there the front door quite often goes directly to the street or to a cold unheated vestibule. Despite the fact that in an apartment building a draft from the door is a very unpleasant phenomenon, in addition, if the entrance is warm. Since cigarette smoke and other unpleasant odors enter the apartment with it.

Classical sealing is gluing a self-adhesive seal in the form of a rubber band around the perimeter of the box. Unfortunately, this method is not very reliable.

First of all, with active use of the door, the seal quickly becomes unusable and has to be changed.
Secondly, the slightest misalignment will cause the seal to stop fitting well to the door and not doing its job properly.

In addition, it is only possible to glue the sealant strip correctly if the door is perfectly level. If, however, a different distance is found between the frame and the leaf in different places, the rubber band will not fit well to all parts of the door.

With this placement, the sealing tape will provide better tightness of the door, in addition to its deformation and subsidence, since it will have a greater degree of freedom. Whatever the initial position of the canvas relative to the box, the sealant will work to suppress drafts precisely due to its advantageous location.

Instead of the classic self-adhesive tape, you can use for this purpose a round-section polyethylene foam sealing cord or a rubber tube made of rubber resistant to aggressive media.

And don't let the lack of an adhesive base on them bother you: in this case, glue will help you out remarkably Moment:

Lubricate the frame around the entire perimeter with glue in the place where the sealant should be placed.
Cut the tape to the desired length, cutting the edges at a 45 degree angle to fit at the corners.
Lubricate the side of the seal with which it will be glued with glue.
At the end of the holding time, which for the Moment glue is 15 minutes, close the door and put the rubber band on the end of the box so as to ensure its tight fit to the door. Press it for a couple of seconds with your hands.

Attention! It takes days for the glue to dry completely, so try to use the door carefully on the initial day

It goes without saying that this method also has its drawbacks - the seal can be torn off by accidentally hooking it with something. But fixing the situation will not be difficult by gluing it back into place.

As mentioned above, if it blows from the front door, it is possible to completely insulate it, making sure that the insulation (see Door insulation: types and parameters) is larger than the box and covers all available slots.

For this, rollers are intentionally made, which are attached around the perimeter of the door leaf. From time to time, such rollers are attached to the door frame. You realize what the appeal is about if you look at the photo on the side.

And about how to insulate the door, you can read in more detail in other materials on the site. This may also be required if you have a dilapidated wooden door, the canvas of which has dried out and through cracks have appeared in it.

In the event that a wind blows from the front door, regardless of all the efforts made, make sure that the cold airspace does not enter through the huge keyhole. Otherwise, you need a door.

How to prevent drafts from the door

Skillful builders know that it is possible to install the front door to a house or apartment only after all the “wet” work is completed - laying partitions, plastering, puttying, whitewashing, etc. Especially if it is a wooden door, which is sensitive to high humidity.

At a time when all this work in the new house is completed, and you go to order a new door, think over your requirements for it in advance. It is clear that it must be strong and reliable, but at the time when it blows from the front door, there is little pleasant in this.

Based on this, do not forget to clarify how its sealing will be ensured. on the this moment new models of entrance doors appeared, the boxes of which have a special configuration - a three-stage one.

An additional ledge does not allow cold air space, dust, moisture and foreign odors to enter the room. This configuration has the entire door frame, including the threshold, which is not mounted separately, but forms a single unit with the door frame.

Installing such doors will save you from having to think about how to eliminate drafts.