Floor insulation in a wooden house: types of heaters and work order. Insulation for the floor in a wooden house: which is better, types of heaters under the floor, selection rules and installation Insulation of the floor with a floorboard material
Cold winters still take place, and you need to prepare well for them so that living in the house is 100 percent comfortable. Underfloor heating is the basis on which it depends how pleasant it is to be indoors when it is cool outside. There are convenient options for insulating this part of the building without removing the top layer - it's easy to do it yourself if you follow simple recommendations.
We insulate the floors from the basement - when is it appropriate?
Any wooden house quickly loses heat, this is due to the peculiarity of the material. Therefore, the insulation of all parts related to the external environment is mandatory. Walls are only part of the overall structure, which must undergo a thorough heat blocking procedure. The process of working with the floor will solve such problems as:
- excessive energy consumption for space heating;
- high humidity - relevant for the transitional seasons;
- putrefaction wooden elements buildings;
- the appearance of fungus, mold, which poses a danger to the health of residents of the house.
Most often, in cottages, floors are insulated above a cold basement, because. in the cold season, they cool down quickly and have a low temperature even if the room is heated using their boiler system. Poor or no insulation means icy floors that are useless for carpeting. The problem is only solved proper insulation, there are simple techniques that can be used without removing the old floor. It is better to spend money on such an event once than to constantly spend extra gas or electricity on double heating rooms.
In the event that the building has already been built, and there is a need for additional floor insulation, it is more expedient to do this from below, i.e. without removing floors. Benefits of the bottom technique:
- the ceiling height in the rooms will remain the same, because there will be no need to raise the floors due to insulation;
- no need to specifically spend money on insulating compounds of increased density and rigidity due to the load of furniture, appliances and other items in the house;
- you will protect not only the floor itself from freezing, but also all floor structures, which will extend their service life and generally make the home warmer;
- there will be a change in the location of the dew point from the inside to the surface of the floor - this will get rid of the decay of wooden elements.
The method of floor insulation from below has only one limitation - the subfloor is too low, in which it is impossible to be for work. Such cottage buildings are quite rare. If this is your case, choose the floor insulation option from above, i.e. with the procedure for opening it and filling it with a suitable insulating material.
Minvata - fiber insulator
Mineral wool is a building insulation made up of many fibers in three distinct types: glass; stone or basalt; slags. To work with the floor, basalt canvas is most preferable, because. it is easiest to mount it under the floor structure. Of the two options - rolled and mats in the form of plates - choose the second, because. it keeps its shape well. Advantages:
- good level of thermal insulation;
- simple installation technology;
- relatively low level of moisture absorption from the environment;
- moderate price;
- heat resistance and fire safety;
- bacteria, mold, fungus do not start in the material.
Disadvantages:
- when laying with your own hands, you must use special protection - gloves, clothing, a respirator, glasses, because. there will be many particles of fibers and dust in the air, causing irritation of the skin and respiratory organs;
- moisture protection is required, because the structure is susceptible to vapor absorption;
- if installed incorrectly, strong shrinkage is possible;
- when laying between the lags, you need to leave a gap to the main structure of 5 centimeters.
If you decide to choose mineral fiber, select the material of the desired thickness. Specific data depend on the climatic zone, for example, an indicator of 100-150 millimeters is suitable for central Russia. Basalt wool is suitable for all types of floors, including the attic.
Styrofoam - air material from granules
Styrofoam consists of foamed PVC granules containing a maximum of air inside, this gives it good thermal insulation qualities. Advantages:
- has strength, stability, rigidity;
- almost does not absorb moisture - the percentage is lower than that of mineral mats;
- has a light weight;
- easy to mount, because does not change shape;
- inexpensive;
- durable, does not mold, does not rot.
Disadvantages:
- subject to fire;
- brittle to break;
- ventilation of the base is required, because does not pass steam and air.
For floor insulation in an ordinary private house, foam boards of the PSB-S-15 brand ten centimeters thick are suitable. At the time of purchase, do not confuse them with granulated polystyrene foam, which easily crumbles into small PVC balls. The latter can also be used as a heater if the repair budget is very small. The material has good thermal conductivity, but has a relatively short service life - no more than ten years.
Polyurethane foam - do I need a device to work with it?
This building material is a foam of two types - light and hard. To work with the floor, the second option is used, because. it does not require special vapor barrier from the basement side and has the best thermal insulation characteristics. The first type is very similar to mineral wool - in the same way, when working with it, you will have to leave gaps for ventilation and waterproof the lower surface. PPU consists of two components:
- 1. polyol or hydroacid with emulsifiers, polyesters and foaming agents;
- 2. isocyanate or polyisocyanate and diphenylmethane diisocyanate mixed with each other, which are strong reagents in the complex.
Building material advantages:
- fills all cracks and corner spaces thanks to spraying technology;
- suitable for bottom mounting;
- does not shrink, fireproof;
- does not require vapor protection;
- durable - lasts up to 50 years;
- high level of adhesion to all materials;
- high installation speed;
- complete environmental friendliness;
- has no seams, because is a single sheet after drying.
Among the shortcomings, one can single out the high cost, the need for skill in applying and the use of special equipment - the apparatus high pressure which can be rented.
Installation technology - how to keep warm quickly and efficiently?
Mineral wool and polystyrene, having the form of plates, are mounted on the "wrong side" of the floor from the side basement with the same technology. Attach bars with a cross section of 50 to 100 millimeters to the beams from below. Lay a layer of material for thermal insulation on top, like on shelves. The beams should be placed under the "top" floor at such a distance that a few centimeters remain between it and the top surface for ventilation. Hem the heat-insulating "pie" from below with boards, apply waterproofing to prevent vapors from penetrating into the material from the basement side.
The waterproofing function can be performed by ordinary polyethylene film - this is the cheapest and most convenient option. A moisture-proof membrane will cost more - it is stronger and does not prevent air movement, unlike cellophane. In order for the materials to last longer, the film will need to cover the upper surface of the main thermal insulation. The order of all layers from top to bottom will be as follows:
- 1. flooring;
- 2. concrete screed or expanded clay;
- 3. overlap;
- 4. vapor barrier from the side of the room;
- 5. a layer of mineral wool or polystyrene;
- 6. waterproofing from the basement;
- 7. holding boards.
Application of PPU is carried out on a specially prepared floor surface, it is necessary to remove dust, debris from it and make sure that it is completely dry and free of grease. The foam does not adhere to polyethylene and greasy compounds. The procedure can be carried out at temperatures above 10 degrees, otherwise the material will not stick to the ceiling as it should.
For work, you will need a high-pressure apparatus - it is very expensive to buy it, you can rent it in specialized companies. It is connected to two containers with the first and second components. When the start button is pressed, the compositions are combined in a vortex chamber, then they are sprayed in the form of a fine and light mass. The pressure in the machine must be at least 140 atmospheres. When choosing a technique, pay attention to the current source - the required one must match your home network.
Apply PPU evenly, after putting on protective equipment - goggles, a respirator, gloves. The procedure for a professional is about an hour, if you are confident in your abilities, you can try it yourself, but it will take more time due to insufficient experience. Apply polyurethane foam not only to the space between the lags, but also to the lags themselves - this will protect them from rising steam from the ground.
After applying a layer of about 10 centimeters, turn off the machine and leave the room to dry. Complete hardening of the material and its perfect adhesion is achieved in two days. There is no need to specially process the bottom layer, because. it is not exposed to moisture and holds well to the top of the floor.
A self-built house is the pride of every owner. In such a house, everything is done for a convenient and comfortable life. In order to be warm and comfortable in any weather, you should carefully consider all stages of construction, especially laying the floor. IN wooden house should be warm in frosty winters and cool in hot summers.
Even the most professional and solid flooring work leaves small gaps between the boards, which inevitably leads to heat loss, and also disrupts the air circulation under the logs, which is necessary in a wooden structure. Through such slots, up to 30% of heat escapes, which will significantly lower the room temperature and increase energy consumption for heating.
Useful information:
The choice of material and the calculation of its required thickness
Before you buy material for thermal insulation, carefully study the existing range. Great importance here will have what it is made of, standard sizes, properties, brand-manufacturer. Keep in mind that the material in mats will have a greater density and elasticity than in rolls. Consider the thermal conductivity of the material, its specific gravity, dimensional stability and vapor permeability. Many manufacturers place this information on the packaging of their products.
Several formulas will have to be applied. Calculation of the required thickness of thermal insulation \u003d RxA. The values for the coefficient R (total thermal resistance of the building structure) can be found in the tables to the SNiP appendix "Thermal protection of buildings". Building codes and regulations - a set of basic regulatory requirements and provisions. There you can peep all the values of interest. For example, the value of the thermal conductivity coefficient is A. The collection of all parameters should be carried out taking into account the requirements of SNiPa. It is necessary to calculate the parameters of the permissible load on the floor. In the tables you will also find values for calculating the so-called temporary loads (furniture, equipment, people and animals). The total height of the entire structure is calculated. Humidity and temperature inside the house are taken into account. You can also use the online calculator to calculate.
The main stages of work on floor insulation
- Installation of a structure with wooden logs on a leveled floor surface
- Installation of waterproofing and rough flooring from boards or shields
- Laying insulation between the lags (filling the joints with mounting foam or sealant)
- Laying material that provides reliable vapor barrier
- Manufacturing wooden flooring, on which you can then mount the final finish coat.
The insulation layer is "sewn" between the layers of waterproofing and vapor barrier.
The vapor barrier will protect the thermal insulation from the formation of condensate and steam from the inside of the room. The vapor barrier material is a film, which is additionally fixed with a special metal tape. There are the following types of film vapor barrier: polyethylene and polypropylene.
When used for wooden floors, the film material needs an air gap.
Polyethylene film vapor barrier
- Perforated film (can be used as a waterproofing barrier)
- Non-perforated film (for vapor barrier in wooden houses, not tear resistant)
- With an aluminum layer (for rooms with high humidity)
- Reinforced (a reinforced layer is placed between two layers of polyethylene)
Polypropylene vapor barrier
- Non-reinforced film (cheap, but not practical material)
- Reinforced film (viscose and cellulose - an additional reinforcing reinforced layer). During installation, it is laid with a reinforced layer down.
The vapor barrier is installed on the logs using any available fasteners.
Features of floor insulation without lag
In the absence of a lag, an additional screed is poured onto the floor surface. It will level the surface and remove all possible irregularities.
- Laying waterproofing. We choose affordable and economical products. We focus on reliability and ease of use. Suitable traditional roofing felt and roofing material, bitumen-containing roll materials.
- We fall asleep a layer of expanded clay of the middle fraction. Thermal insulation can be carried out using expanded perlite or vermiculite. A thin layer of such materials will also create good sound insulation. Vermeculite can also have a sheet form of release. Aggloporite - not very economical option. Environmentally friendly material is sawdust. They are hygroscopic, surpass expanded clay in the quality of thermal insulation, are not combustible and prevent decay. Treated with a special composition with an antiseptic, even at high humidity, such a filler will remain dry. Industrial slag is the cheapest thermal insulation material. There are certain requirements for the content of ash and coal in waste, for their subsequent use as a heat insulator.
- Above - an additional layer of rolled waterproofing. With the help of rails, we set the height of the insulation layer.
In a small room, it will be enough to place the slats only around the perimeter of the room.
Ways to insulate the floor in a wooden house with a basement
A rather laborious process, it is most convenient to disassemble it in stages.
- Mounting the crate
Lathing bars 5x5 mm., Attached to the beam of the base of the floor. - Laying boards of the draft layer
Small gaps are allowed. Boards of the draft layer should not completely cover the ceiling joists. - Waterproofing pad
- Insulation sheets
- vapor barrier
- Finishing layer of the final finish
This installation is suitable for houses with a basement or underground, where there are no sub-zero temperatures.
The most popular is another scheme:
- Rough layer
- Loose insulation or sand
- Cardboard
- Air gap (about 3 cm.)
- Finishing
Wooden logs can be fixed on posts (brick, concrete), installed directly on the foundation of the house, or cut into the wooden plinth of the house. Also directly on the load-bearing beams.
We warm the wooden floor in a house without a basement
Here, the foundation feature will be important. The method of installing the log and the subsequent installation of the floor will depend on it. You can insulate the soil itself, or you can put a heater in the interlag space.
In houses with a small base, where the height above the ground is small, you can lay the logs directly on reinforced soil. The advantage of such a floor is that it will not give an additional load on the foundation of the house. Strengthening is carried out using a concrete screed, on which, subsequently, a lag structure is installed. The screed is best poured in several layers. Insulation, vapor barrier are laid on the waterproofing, in the space between the lags, and you can proceed with the installation of the wooden floor. As a heat insulator, you can use rolled mineral wool or expanded clay.
In the variant with a large basement distance, the logs are laid in such a way that there is an opportunity for air circulation. This creates a ventilated space that prevents the appearance of dampness in the house.
A variety of modern heaters
Fibrous insulation
Fiberglass and mineral wool are excellent heat insulators, good noise insulators. The laying of the fiber between the joists is carried out very tightly. The space between the rails should be made smaller than the width of the roll of material. The disadvantages of the material include low vapor permeability and low mechanical strength. Also, glass wool fibers shrink, and it is unsafe to work with it. Mineral wool is safe, does not shrink, but outperforms fiberglass in price. Mineral wool is laid with the marking up, that is, with the denser side. Vapor barrier in this case is not required.
organic heaters
Linen or jute fiber, in its properties very similar to mineral wool. The fibers are easy to work with and safe. They are afraid of moisture getting on the surface, as the process of decay may begin.
polyurethane foam
Can be used as a finishing touch. Applied by spraying. A fairly high price, adequate quality indicators. Such a coating will have low thermal conductivity, low water absorption, and environmental friendliness. Stability in its structure and form, durability. Quality material must be dry and free of harmful volatile impurities.
With the help of foam
Styrofoam is a dense material that reflects infrared rays well. Environmentally friendly and inexpensive. The only drawback is the instability to the environment. In enclosed spaces, the foam does not wear out and does not lose its qualities.
Bulk heaters
Easy to install. On bulk insulation, you can make flooring finishes. Not very cost effective.
Foam concrete and aerated concrete, granular concrete
The remains after construction can be used as a heater. These types have high resistance as heat retention. Granuloben is affordable and has high quality heat insulator. Its composition is sand, cement and pieces of foam.
The latest heaters
The range of heat insulating materials is expanding more and more.
Traditional materials give way to the latest advances. Physical and technical characteristics are becoming more and more perfect. The names of species, brands and types are huge.
Penofol
A foil reflective foam layer and a small thickness gives a result that is many times superior to conventional materials. Laid in one layer, it does an excellent job not only with the function of heat preservation, but also with waterproofing. Can serve as a vapor barrier. Long term services, ideal for use in a wooden house.
The novelty Penofol-2000 has protection on both sides in the form of aluminum foil. The efficiency of the material is much higher than that of its predecessors.
Izolon
The use of new generation materials with a uniform cellular structure will give the entire structure even greater strength and elasticity. A thin layer of such material is a heat insulator unsurpassed in its qualities. Economical in price, elementary in its use and operation. It is combined with any other materials, great for use in wooden houses. Eco-friendly.
For insulation with a thin layer, you can use extruded polystyrene foam, which also has a foamed cellular structure, it will good choice. Plates made of expanded polystyrene - penoplex, will also be good heat insulator. The material is laid on a leveled floor base, attached to it with plastic anchors. After installing such a heater, you should immediately proceed with the installation of the main floor covering.
Materials and methods for finishing the floor
For the final, fine finish of the floor, there is big choice various floor coverings:
- And massive wooden boards.
In cases where it is necessary to emphasize the beauty of a wooden floor, it is advisable to use varnish. Also pay attention to the method of oiling and waxing. This treatment will protect the tree from the appearance of fungus, mold, insects and give an excellent appearance. When choosing a finishing material, you should pay attention to such characteristics of the material as:
- wear resistance
- Good acoustic properties
- Ease and practicality in cleaning
- Compliance with the style and interior of the house
Article plan
An important criterion for maintaining heat in the house is a securely equipped floor. How to insulate the floor in a wooden house so that staying indoors is comfortable even in cold weather? Among the methods of floor insulation, the most popular and popular are the creation of a double floor system and the insulation of an existing floor during repairs.
Double floor system in the house
When planning a house, it is important to consider that a double floor system includes a subfloor and a finishing floor. Together with the insulation, they form a kind of layered structure, which not only bears the load, but also prevents heat loss.
subfloor flooring
The first layer of the floor is rough, made of unhewn, well-fitted boards, on which a layer of sand or expanded clay is poured. This method provides ventilation of the floor and prevents the growth of fungus. But this is far from the best solution. We still advise you to think about effective insulation of the subfloor: hygroscopic materials like expanded clay lose their properties over time.
Since it will subsequently be necessary to lay a layer of insulation between the finishing and subfloor, we immediately provide for the necessary distance between them. As a material for the subfloor in a wooden house, you can use boards that were previously used for formwork during the construction of the foundation - provided that you took care of their safety in the process of pouring the foundation of the house. To lay the draft floor to the lags, a beam is fastened with screws (a section of 50 by 50 mm is enough), and the boards of the floor itself (25 by 150 mm) are already nailed to it. It is advisable to treat them with antiseptics before this in order to avoid the development of the fungus. It is advisable to waterproof the subfloor in a wooden or any other house only if hygroscopic heat-insulating materials are used.
The draft floor along the logs is a universal design that is widely used in building. The material used is a board about 150 mm wide and 40-50 mm thick, which is fastened with screws to wooden floor beams. The logs are not brought to the walls by 2-3 cm, the resulting gap is filled with mineral wool.
Finished flooring
The finished floor is laid on top of the draft. The floor is made of neat hewn milled boards with a groove-thorn connection, which are located at a height of 3-4 cm from the draft. The thickness of the boards can be from 3 to 4.4 cm, the width is from 9.8 to 14.5 cm. Each board has a longitudinal recess on the back, which facilitates the movement of air under the floor. In addition to milled boards for floor insulation in a wooden house, options for tongue-and-groove boards with a fold, boards with a spike, boards with a lath into a tongue are used.
Such boards have a planed front side, but there is no airflow. It is more difficult to make flooring from them - the untreated back part leads to an incomplete fit of the boards on the logs. The most time-consuming work is considered to be the laying of finishing floors from unedged boards. On such boards, you need to trim the front side by cutting off the wane with an ax.
Boards are laid on top of the logs as finishing floors, or fiberboard sheets are placed on the boards, closing the space between the wall and the floor with a profiled rail. The skirting boards are joined along the length and at a right angle, at the corners the skirting boards are cut off and connected at an angle of 45 °. Skirting boards are attached to the walls with nails, it is optimal to take nails 75 mm long. Nails are driven in at a distance of 600-700 mm from each other, as well as at the joints. The plinth should be firmly pressed against the wall, partition and floor.
About floor waterproofing
If it is planned to lay any coating on the finishing floor, then to protect it from moisture, they resort to using waterproofing materials. Most often it is an impregnating, painting or gluing waterproofing, which can be used in wet areas of wooden and stone houses.
Floor insulation during renovation
Apart from proper styling you need to take care of how to insulate the floor in a wooden house. Usually mineral wool boards are used. When insulating the floor, it should be remembered that all heat-insulating materials used must meet certain requirements - this is lightness, excellent heat-insulating properties, ease of installation, safety, high strength and durability.
Thermal insulation materials
Glass wool, mineral basalt wool, expanded polystyrene are suitable for floor insulation in a wooden house. Dozens of companies are engaged in the production of such materials, among which are Rockwool, Izovol, Ursa, Isover, Penoplex, Knauf, etc. We did not describe all the heaters that can be used for thermal insulation of the floor, but only listed the characteristics and estimated cost of some of them . Note that all of them can be used, including for internal insulation of attic walls.
| Floor insulation (company and name) | Type of thermal insulation / application features | Dimensions, mm | Price per cube m. | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Length | Width | Thickness | |||
| Rockwool | |||||
| Light Butts | Basalt fiber board. Unloaded thermal insulation layer | 1000 | 600 | 50 | 1500 |
| 100 | |||||
| Light Butts Scandic | 800 | 600 | 50 | 1350 | |
| 100 | |||||
| Floor Butts I | High Density Basalt Fiber Board for Ground Flooring | 1000 | 600 | 50 | 5600 |
| 100 | |||||
| isorus | |||||
| Light Profit | Insulation for the floor in the form of plates. Material - basalt fiber | 1000 | 600 | 50 | 1200 |
| Light-55 | 1750 | ||||
| Izovol | |||||
| Izobel L-25 | Basalt fiber slabs for laying between joists | 1000 | 600 | 50 | 1250 |
| 100 | |||||
| Isorok | |||||
| Isolight-L | Basalt fiber floor insulation | 1000 | 600 | 50 | 1350 |
| 100 | |||||
| ursa | |||||
| Geo Light | Rolled fiberglass material | 7700 | 1200 | 50 | 1100 |
| Geo M-11 | 10000 | ||||
| Geo M-15 | 8500 | 1250 | |||
| Geo P-15 | Fiberglass slab for laying between joists | 1250 | 600 | 50 | 1300 |
| PureOne 37RN | Fiberglass material, roll | 10000 | 1200 | 50 | 1750 |
| PureOne 34PN | fiberglass board | 1250 | 600 | 50 | 2000 |
| 100 | |||||
| Knauf | |||||
| Thermo Roll 040 | Fiberglass floor insulation | 7000 | 1200 | 50 | 1150 |
| TeploKNAUF Dacha Thermo Roll 044 | 7380 | 1220 | |||
| TeploKNAUF Cottage Thermo Roll 037A | 6150 | 1300 | |||
| TeploKNAUF House + Thermo Stove 040 | fiberglass plate | 1230 | 610 | 100 | 1200 |
| TeploKNAUF Dom Thermo Stove 040 | 50 | ||||
Thermal insulation of the floor based on mineral basalt wool- the best option: cotton wool is not subject to fire, dense and has a low water absorption coefficient. When insulating with glass wool, it is necessary to perform mandatory floor waterproofing, since glass wool is hygroscopic.
Extruded polystyrene foam is best used where there is a need for a minimum layer of insulation.
Among waterproofing materials, you can opt for PVC membranes, roofing material, plastic film and isoplast. All of these materials perfectly protect the insulation from moisture penetration.
How to install insulation
Thermal insulation materials are laid in this way. A layer of roofing material is laid on the subfloor. A layer of sand 3-5 cm high is poured onto the roofing material, leveled. A plastic film is placed on top of the sand - the thicker the better. The film is attached to the base of the floor with a construction stapler or small nails. Penoplex - the next layer of the coating, has heat-insulating properties and absorbs sounds well, is environmentally friendly, fits effortlessly and is perfect for roof insulation. On top of the foam layer, a vapor barrier is shot with a stapler (without gaps and overlapped by 10-20 cm) and a layer of chipboard is made. Next comes the finishing floor.
The most common problem is cold floors. This is due to the fact that air currents coming from the ground penetrate into the room through the gaps between the boards. In addition, in case of violation of the humidity-temperature regime, the material begins to lose its strength characteristics and rot. Therefore, in order to keep the room warm and comfortable, it is necessary to carry out a number of thermal insulation works. In today's review by the HouseChief editors, we will tell you how to properly insulate the floor in a wooden house, which method and materials are better to choose.
Read in the article
Why do floor insulation in a wooden house from below
Expanded clay is the second most popular heat-insulating material. It is a granule of foamed and fired clay. Expanded clay is strong, light and durable, but because of its porosity, it absorbs moisture well, which is its significant drawback. Therefore, using this heat-insulating material, it is necessary to arrange a good one. Among the advantages of expanded clay, it is worth noting good sound insulation characteristics, resistance to low temperatures and environmental safety.
One of the most budgetary materials is foam. This heater is comfortable and durable. It tolerates moisture very well. The material is very easy to install. It is enough to cut a tile that is suitable in size, insert it and. Weak point Styrofoam is that rodents like to build their nests in it.
Another traditional material for do-it-yourself floor insulation in a wooden house is mineral wool. It's hard to name it completely. budget option, but there are several inexpensive models in the line of this material on the market. For example, glass and some soft mineral wool mats are quite affordable for the average consumer. However, this insulation can last no more than 10 years, because it quickly shrinks, loses its qualities when wet. It is very popular with rodents.
Insulation of a wooden floor with modern materials
Among modern thermal insulation materials, extruded polystyrene foam (EPP) has gained the greatest popularity. Due to the closed cell structure, it is not afraid of moisture and steam. EPP is also not tolerated by rodents. The material is so strong that it can even be laid in.
The next most popular is ecowool, which is 80% cellulose, and 20% antiseptics and flame retardants. In production, the material is not expensive, and the high cost is due to its novelty.
A fairly expensive and effective insulation is polyurethane foam. To insulate the floor of the first floor with this material, the participation of experienced specialists and the availability of professional equipment are required. Despite the fact that the foam is close to EPP in its characteristics, it will not withstand the device.
Penoizol. Although this material is cheaper than polyurethane foam, it also requires specialists to work with it. Many consider it inappropriate to overpay for this type of insulation, since it is the same foam, only in liquid form. Of the advantages, the speed of installation and the tightness of the coating are noted.
We offer you to watch a video on how to choose a heater:
How to calculate the thickness of the insulation
When carrying out thermal insulation work, a very important parameter is to determine the thickness of the insulation layer. It must be determined individually for each house and depends on design features building, the climatic conditions of the region and the type of insulation material. The formula for calculating the optimal thickness of the insulation layer is given in SNiP 23-02-2003 "Thermal protection of buildings".
The calculation formula looks like this:
R λ = thickness of the thermal insulation layer,
where R - thermal resistance of the structure, determined for a particular region (written in special tables in the appendix to SNiP);
λ - coefficient of thermal conductivity (indicated in the instructions for the material and SNiP).
If it is necessary to lay the heat-insulating material in a thin layer, it is recommended to use extruded polystyrene foam or heaters in mats and rolls. The latter option is more preferable due to its high strength and elasticity.
Floor insulation technology in a wooden house from below
Each thermal insulation material has its own installation methods. However, there are General requirements on the installation of floor insulation, which must be observed regardless of the material chosen. So, with the right one, the heat-insulating cake should consist of the following layers:
- insulation;
- vapor barrier;
- structural elements of the floor;
- finishing flooring.
Professionals say that a similar arrangement of layers makes it possible to create inside the house optimal temperature and maintain a normal level of humidity in the premises.
For your information! When installing thermal insulation of the basement, it is recommended to use beams with a cross section of 50-100 mm.
Waterproofing pad
When carrying out work on the insulation of draft floors in a wooden house, it is necessary to perform waterproofing. Due to the fact that cold air in contact with a warm surface creates condensation, they begin to be exposed to moisture. From its constant presence in the room, the active development of fungus and mold begins, which leads to decay and destruction of wooden structures. This happens especially often in cases where, during the construction of the house, the wood was not treated with special protective agents.
Performing insulation without a layer will lead to a negative effect of moisture on the heat-conducting qualities of the material. As a result, humidity increases and the temperature in the house decreases. Therefore, a waterproofing layer is so necessary. It is arranged from the side of exposure to cold air currents.
Vapor barrier for the floor in a wooden house
Household appliances, equipment and the human body that work in the home allocate a large number of heat. It penetrates through the cracks, and, upon contact with cold air, turns into condensate that settles inside wooden structure. As a result of such exposure, the wood swells, rots from the inside. Even treatment with special protective equipment cannot prevent this. Therefore, when insulating the floor in a wooden house, a vapor barrier layer is required. The most simple and available material for this - a polyethylene film, which is perfect for hydro and vapor barrier. However, it is best to use moisture-windproof membranes that ensure normal air circulation and trap moisture inside.
How and how to insulate the floor in a wooden house from below: laying technology
When choosing a heater for wooden house, it must be borne in mind that each of the heat-insulating materials has its own installation features. Below we consider the methods of fastening, depending on the selected material.
Floor insulation in a wooden house along the logs
The best way to insulate the floor is considered to be laying on logs. These are transverse boards used for subsequent flooring. The main stages of laying thermal insulation:
- Logs are installed on. The distance between them should be no more than 1000-1200 mm.
- A base is being prepared for laying thermal insulation or a subfloor. To do this, using self-tapping screws, sheets of thick or are mounted.
- Between the lags, a waterproofing membrane and the selected insulation are laid. The thickness of the heat-insulating layer is determined according to special tables or manufacturer's recommendations. In any case, it should not be higher than the lags themselves.
- A layer of vapor barrier is laid.
- Now you can start laying the flooring (old or new).
This algorithm of actions will allow you to perform thermal insulation of the floor in a wooden house with almost any type of insulation.
How to properly insulate the floor in a wooden house with sawdust
Using sawdust as a heat-insulating material is an environmentally friendly and inexpensive way to insulate floors in a wooden house. When choosing them as a heater, you should follow some recommendations:
- the heat-insulating mixture consists of 50% sawdust, 10% clay or 40% water. A thicker solution will be stronger, but the thermal conductivity will be reduced;
- broken glass must be added to the prepared heat-insulating mixture. This should scare away rodents;
- the finished mixture must be filled in the space between the lags and carefully compacted. This will make it possible to obtain an even and effective heat-insulating layer.
In addition to the above composition of sawdust insulation, there are two more options, namely:
- Bulk. Take 80% dry sawdust and mix with 20% slaked lime powder and pour the mixture between the logs. The heat-insulating layer for central Russia should be at least 150-200 mm, and for the northern regions - 300-400 mm.
- Slab or sawdust concrete. For the manufacture of heat-insulating boards, it is necessary to take sawdust, slaked lime and cement in the proportion of 8/1/1, respectively. All this must be moistened abundantly and mixed thoroughly. The resulting wet mixture must be placed in molds, compacted and allowed to dry. About a week later, in the warm season, sawdust slabs will be ready. It is possible to fill the space between the lags and the wet mix, but in this case, the installation of a fine floor covering is only permissible after 2-3 weeks, until the mix is completely dry.
Floor insulation in a wooden house with foam
Most often, they prefer to insulate floors in wooden houses with foam plastic due to affordable price and high material strength. Installation takes place as follows:
- cut into the right size, accurately and tightly adjusting the edges of the plates between themselves and the lags to prevent the penetration of cold air;
- lay a layer of waterproofing;
- installation of plates on the subfloor is carried out using mounting glue;
- all joints for a stronger adhesion are additionally glued.
Due to the fact that penoplex is lightweight, it is great for thermal insulation of floors in frame houses. With such material, the load on the houses will be minimal, which will avoid shrinkage of the structure in the future.
Features of floor insulation with mineral wool
Before carrying out thermal insulation work, it is necessary to check the condition of the surface of the subfloors. If it is in excellent condition, then you can proceed to the next step. Otherwise, you need to either restore the old coating, or dismantle it and create a new one. Next, a layer of waterproofing is laid, and guide lags are mounted.
Logs are mounted with an optimal step - 500 mm. It should not exceed a distance of 900 mm. After installing the floor beam, you can proceed to the direct laying of the insulation. Mineral wool should lie close to each other and lags, but do not wrinkle.
Next, you need to lay a layer of vapor barrier membrane and, after that, proceed with the installation of the base under the finished floor. Plywood, etc. is used as a material for such a base. Only then can the final finish be applied.
Features of floor insulation in a wooden house with ecowool
Insulation of floors with ecowool practically does not differ from the process of thermal insulation with mineral wool. In this case, 2 methods are used: dry and blowing or spraying. Each of these options has its own advantages and disadvantages. We will consider the first option, since it is suitable for independent work.
Dry mounting method
This method is most suitable for self-assembly and consists of the following steps:
- If a draft floor is already installed in the building, then it should be waterproofed with roofing material or plastic wrap. Next, wooden logs are installed in increments of 600 mm.
- If there is no concrete floor and the logs are mounted on posts, then they must be hemmed from below with plywood or.
- Logs and base are wetted with a spray gun. The loosened contents of the briquette with insulation are poured into the resulting box. The mixture is poured a little above the thickness of the lag.
- The mass of ecowool is compacted. In the event that the thickness of the heat-insulating layer is significant, the insulation is laid in several layers. However, don't over tighten them. This may reduce the efficiency of the heater.
- The surface of the insulation must be moistened, because in this case the structure of the material changes and, due to this, a denser outer layer is created.
How to insulate a wooden floor with expanded clay
Floor insulation with expanded clay is carried out using almost the same technology as with other heat-insulating materials. But still there are some differences. For insulation with expanded clay, you should:
- a sandy “cushion” is poured on the subfloor in an even layer, which must be compacted;
- for waterproofing, a layer of liquid mastic is applied to the “pillow”;
- expanded clay is poured and leveled;
- a vapor barrier is laid and a finishing floor is laid.
Features of warming the floor of a wooden house from above
As already mentioned, floor insulation, both from below and from above, is an installation of several types of materials, which as a result form a multilayer "pie". The technology for both cases is identical, with the difference that the thermal insulation of the floor from below is more labor-intensive.
Typical mistakes when insulating the floor of a wooden house
Inexperienced professionals and those who try to insulate floors on their own often make a number of mistakes. We list the most common of them. Having familiarized yourself with them, you can avoid such mistakes when insulating floors on your own.
Mistake #1: Improper storage and unpacking
It is impossible to store unpacked material for a long time, since humidity will affect the quality of the insulation. It must be unpacked about a day before installation. It is best to do this in the house or under. After laying the insulation, it is necessary to close it with a vapor barrier and a finished floor as soon as possible.
Mistake number 2: gaps or compression of the insulation
When laying the insulation, it is necessary to observe the dimensions so that there are no gaps that will become. If, nevertheless, there are gaps between the material and the lags, then they need to be blown out with mounting foam. It is also unacceptable to compress the insulation, like mineral wool.
Mistake #3: Underestimated State of Interfloor Floors
Often logs and floor slabs are exposed to moisture, fungus or mold, or simply worn out. If the state of the floors and the lag is not assessed, then the thermal insulation work is carried out in vain, therefore, if the structures are in a deplorable state, they must be replaced.
Mistake number 4: the lack of special processing of wooden structures
In the absence of special protective treatment, the wood that is under the insulation will quickly rot and be exposed to fungus and mold.
Mistake number 5: too thin thermal insulation
Mistake #6: Missing waterproofing
When groundwater occurs at a depth of less than 2 m, the insulation of the floors of the first floor must begin with the installation of a waterproofing layer.
Mistake No. 7: violation of the sequence of laying layers of thermal insulation
If you want the house to be warm, be sure to follow the technology of laying thermal insulation. Do not skip any of the layers and use only high-quality materials.
Watch a video about common mistakes performed during the installation of thermal insulation of floors in wooden houses.
Probably, many home owners ask themselves such questions: Do I need to insulate the floors? Will there be any sense from the insulated floor? How to insulate an old floor without removing it?
We can say with confidence that it is necessary to insulate the floors, since its insulation will help reduce heating costs and you will feel the benefit of this pretty quickly. And the main advantage of this process is that you can insulate the wooden floor without removing it.
Floor insulation in a wooden house
Wooden houses have been very popular for many years, as they are relatively inexpensive, able to stand for more than a dozen, or even a hundred years, and they are also distinguished by their quality and comfort. If your house is well-built and at the same time has excellent insulation, then you can forget about cold winters while in such a building.
But, if you intend to make your home even warmer, then we recommend that you start insulating the floor, as in a cold state it can lower the temperature, which will lead to high heating costs.
double floor
Double floor implies a design of two levels:
- Draft - boards attached to the beams, on which layers of thermal insulation will be laid;
- Finishing - the level that serves as the basis for laying the last layer of insulation.
Insulation options and what materials are needed.
There are many options for floor insulation that you can find in any building materials market.
We will offer you the most popular and effective heaters:
- Mineral wool is an excellent, soft material that has a good cost and has a high thermal insulation index. Mineral wool can be classified as a safe heater that does not emit harmful substances, do not burn;
- Polyurethane foam - mainly used for vapor barrier;
- Expanded clay - has good thermal insulation properties, but has a fairly high cost;
- Penofol, penoplex, polystyrene are synthetic materials that reflect thermal radiation well and are fireproof.
Installation technology
How to insulate the floor in a wooden house without disassembling the floor? Very easy. Now we will present you a simple option on how to properly insulate the floor in a room cheaply. So, let's begin.
Work should begin with the organization of a "thermal insulation pie", which will have several insulating layers. For its organization you need:
- Create a construction from a lag;
- Installation of facing boards on logs;
- Carry out the laying of heat-insulating material between the lags so that the gaps are minimal.
- You can fill the gaps with mounting foam;
- We lay a layer of insulation and install a vapor barrier film on top of it, which must be attached to the logs, fix the overlaps with adhesive tape;
- We install the selected flooring.
Insulated floors on the ground
Floor insulation on the ground will be a “pie” of many layers that will be presented:
- mother soil;
- Bulk layer of soil;
- Large gravel;
- sand or cement mortar(which will be needed to level the rubble);
- Waterproofing (in the underground of the house, it will not allow moistening not only the floor, but also the house itself);
- Insulation (polyurethane foam, mineral wool, penofol are perfect. You can also insulate the floor with expanded clay, which has good thermal insulation qualities, but also has a high cost.
A good option is penoplex. It is as easy to insulate the floor with foam plastic as with other materials).
- Screed (main and main layer of the structure);
- Floor covering ("finish" layer).
To make an effective design, you will be required good materials, patience and a few helpers. If you cope with the task, then the insulated floors on the ground will keep the heat in your house well and will not allow the cold to penetrate.
Calculation of the thickness of the insulation
It is worth considering the fact that each insulation must have its own thickness, which will minimize heat loss.
We will give you a list of the required thickness for various heaters:
- Styrofoam - for a wooden house - 300 mm, for a concrete house - 200 mm;
- Mineral wool - at least 300-400 mm;
- Expanded clay - 300-400 mm;
- Polyurethane foam, penoplex, penofol - at least 100 mm;
Mineral wool
As previously written in the article, mineral wool is a popular material that is non-combustible, resistant to shrinkage, deformation, as well as fungi and mold.
Before laying the mineral wool, the sheathing must already have a heat-insulating material that will protect it from moisture. If there is already a waterproofing layer, then we mount mineral wool, the sheets of which should be tightly pressed against each other in order to avoid gaps and gaps. After laying the mineral wool, we apply a layer of vapor barrier, then proceed to the installation of the floor covering.
Expanded clay
It is a porous balls of various sizes, which have good thermal insulation performance. Expanded clay is very durable, safe to use, has soundproofing qualities, and besides, it has a long service life. It is also worth noting its resistance to various temperatures.
The process of insulation with these materials is a rather laborious process. After that, they fall asleep on the coating with waterproofing, then rammed and poured with cement.
Styrofoam
This material is distinguished by its lightness and ease of installation, it withstands moisture well, has good sound insulation, has high term services. But, its only drawback is its low fire safety, that is, it can ignite.
Before laying the foam, on the surface where it will be installed, there must be a layer of waterproofing. After, foam blocks are installed on the surface, after - a layer of waterproofing and vapor barrier.
Penoplex
Between the lags we lay a layer of insulation, then a draft floor is made on top, on which we can already lay a finishing floor. Tip - the gaps between the foam sheets can be sealed with mounting foam. Also, penoplex can be used to insulate not only the floor, but also the house itself.
Penofol
Laying penofol from other heaters, in fact, is not particularly different. As for any insulation, we prepare the surface, organize the vapor barrier and install the insulation, on which we apply a layer of penofol. When the penofol layer is installed, we proceed to laying the flooring.
How to insulate a concrete floor
Now we will move away from the article a little and talk a little about choosing a heater for a concrete floor.
Such heaters are perfect for concrete floors.:
- mineral wool;
- Styrofoam;
- expanded clay;
- cork insulation, etc.
How to insulate the floor in a frame house
Insulate the floor with your own hands frame house it is also possible without removing the old floor on the ground floor. In fact, the insulation in such a house is no different from the insulation of a wooden house. We nail the bars to the logs along the entire length and then mount the boards on top, or OSB boards. To make a waterproofing coating, we make a flooring from a waterproof film that will not let moisture through. Then, we proceed to the insulation layer.
What material is of high quality and what is the best way to insulate the floor? Indoors, you can insulate the floor with foam, expanded clay, mineral wool, polyurethane foam. Is it possible to insulate the floor with penofol? Yes, you can. This material is almost no different from those presented above. It is also suitable for this process, it will create a good warming effect.
How to insulate the floor in a private house
Floor insulation in a private house is carried out according to the same principle as in a wooden one. The only difference may be only the presence of a concrete floor, and not a wooden one.
How to insulate the floor in the apartment
The construction of an insulated surface of an apartment (on any floor) is also not very different from the insulation of a wooden or frame house.
As in a private house, the process of insulation begins with the creation of a log, on which the flooring of boards or OSB sheets is carried out, after which we lay down the waterproofing and the insulation layer itself. If the insulation is laid, proceed to the installation of the floor covering.
There is another way to insulate an apartment, but it is suitable for those who live on the 1st floor.
We can say that you are very lucky to live on such a floor, since you can insulate the basement from the basement.
Thanks to this method, it is not required to dismantle, remove or disassemble the old floor, which greatly facilitates the work. So, the tedious process of creating a new floor does not threaten you.
As you can see, there are many materials to insulate and create a high-quality, full-fledged wooden floor that will delight you on cold winter evenings.
