Protection of vegetable crops from diseases and pests. Diseases of plants in the garden and their treatment Spots on plants in the garden

There is an opinion that pests bypass spicy herbs. I would gladly agree with this, but my tarragon was brazenly eaten by a spider mite ... And now, six months later, a thin cobweb appears on my mini-tomatoes ...

A plant in a pot is much more likely to suffer from diseases, because they have to grow in cramped, stuffy rooms. Indoor plants are weaker than their outdoor counterparts. But pests, fungi and sores are very fond of the home climate.

Sometimes, even the maximum preventive measures do not guarantee protection against infection. But you need to know and practice such measures:

• Soil disinfection during planting.
• Strict adherence to the recommendations for the care of each type of plant: watering, light, humidity.
• Regular inspection of plants, isolation in case of suspicion of infection.

Let's figure out what pests and diseases can affect herbs in pots.

They settle on the inside of the leaves, suck the juice of the plant. Fighting them is a real punishment, as they hide in warm, dry places in the house, and will certainly return. They develop only 7 days, they can sleep up to 5 years, experiencing frost, drought, moisture ... On the affected leaves, light dots first form, which eventually become spots, and the leaves fall off. A thin cobweb appears between the stems and leaves, although not in all cases.

One of the types of spider mites

The tick likes warmth and dryness. Can very quickly infect all plants in the house. preventive measure regular spraying with cool water can become, covering the ground from the bay. Leaves can be washed with a solution of laundry soap - it contains alkali. Apply with a cotton swab and wash off after 20 minutes. They say you can not wash off.

Put the plant in the sun - the tick does not tolerate ultraviolet light. If it is possible to take the plant to the ground, another larger mite awaits it there, which feeds on spider mites ... Like this)))

Chemistry has practically no effect on the tick, but they do acaricides. The most popular: Sunmite (hazard class 3), Aktellik, Fitoverm. I will not describe the drugs, but the essence is the same - they cope with the tick.

Alcohol. Treat with 96% alcohol from a spray bottle the surfaces on which the plants, pots, each leaf stand. The alcohol will evaporate without harming the plants.

An interesting measure of control of mites - with tick and flea prey for pets. Treat the plants, after a couple of days give them a shower.

The fight against the tick can go on for a very long time. Keep an eye on the plants, process window sills and under them, window frames.

Powdery mildew and downy mildew

What does an infection look like? powdery mildew: white coating on leaves and stems, which later turns brown. : plaque lives under the leaves, and dark, brown spots appear on their surface.

This is a fungus that is removed fungicides. In the article, I described a method for disinfecting the soil with fungicides - Fitosporin, Trichodermin. Fitosporin and Trichodermin have an advantage - safety class 4. So, after processing the weed, it will be possible to eat.

Loves greenhouse conditions, stuffiness, excess nitrogen fertilizers. Dislikes fresh, cool air, spraying and airing. More phosphorus and potassium, so spraying will not hurt. Of course, the best treatment option is to remove all infected shoots and leaves, then monitor the plant. You can prepare sulfur-containing preparations or even an infusion of garlic. like this solution you can prepare: a teaspoon of soda per liter of water and a couple of drops of liquid soap. Apply the solution with a cotton swab.

Do not use chemical plant protection products "just in case": they are all toxic to humans and animals to varying degrees.

If there are enough ladybugs, hover flies, riders, ground beetles and other beneficial insects in the garden, then you can not be afraid of the invasion of aphids, mealybugs, scoops, ticks and other pests. To attract insect friends, grow dill, cilantro, watercress, onion seedlings, carrots, parsley, celery, nectariferous plants on the site.

To attract tits, starlings, flycatchers, wagtails and other birds to the gardens, arrange artificial nests - birdhouses, nest boxes, and it is better to fence off neighbors not with a fence, but with a hedge of well-branched shrubs for bird hostels.

You can protect yourself from pests and diseases not only with decoctions and infusions, but also with a thoughtful placement of garden and horticultural crops: onions and carrots mutually protect each other, respectively, from onion and carrot flies; a raspberry planted next to an apple tree protects the tree from scab, and an apple tree protects raspberries from gray rot; onions and garlic in currant plantings repel bud mites; onions between rows of strawberries reduce the spread of gray rot; peas on a potato plot scare away the wireworm.

Jars of kefir, curdled milk or sour milk, hung after flowering in the crown of apple trees, will quickly "collect" apple codling moths.

Mullein infusion will protect currants and gooseberries from powdery mildew (leave 1 part of rotted manure for 3 hours in 9-10 parts of water).

Early spring (before bud break) treatment of currants and gooseberries with hot water (about 80 °) is an effective remedy against powdery mildew and bud mites.

It affects strawberries, raspberries, grapes, fruit and vegetable crops. Fruits and berries are covered with a grayish moldy coating. The causative agent of infection persists in the soil and on plant debris. Infection occurs by spores spread by rain and wind. The disease develops especially rapidly with high soil and air humidity.

Prevention measures are very important: good lighting, sparse planting, providing ventilation; moderate moisture (watering), especially during flowering and ripening of berries; soil mulching with loose materials - straw, needles, sawdust; timely collection and destruction of affected berries.

With a significant development of the disease, early spring spraying of plants before the leaves grow back with 2% nitrafen or 3% Bordeaux liquid is advisable.

A fungal disease that spreads especially strongly in years with wet and warm springs and summers. The causative agent of scab overwinters on fallen affected leaves, and in pear and on young shoots. In spring, the spores of the fungus germinate and olive-green velvety spots appear on the leaves; later, the leaves of the apple tree turn brown, and the leaves of the pear tree turn black and fall off. Cracks appear on fruits, especially pears.

From preventive control measures, autumn digging of tree trunks, collection and disposal of fallen leaves are advisable. With a strong spread of the disease, early spring (before bud break) spraying with nitrafen is carried out; Bordeaux liquid. After flowering, the plants are treated with 1% Bordeaux liquid, copper oxychloride 0.3%, colloidal sulfur. It is very important to select scab-resistant varieties.

Fungal disease, the spread of which is facilitated by hot weather with heavy rainfall. Black-brown concentric spots appear on the lower leaves of plants, and small oblong spots appear on the lower part of the stems; on the fruits - dark spots with black bloom and dents.

The infection persists in the soil and on plant debris, and can be seed-borne. At the beginning of the manifestation of the disease, spraying is carried out with 0.4% copper oxychloride or 1% Bordeaux liquid; taking into account the spread of the disease, the treatment is carried out 2-3 times before planting seedlings in the ground and in the field after the plants take root. It should not be placed next to the planting of tomatoes and potatoes; in greenhouse structures it is very important to maintain optimal humidity.

In warm, humid weather, the leaves turn brown and droop. The disease can spread very quickly, leading to the death of the bushes; the infection spreads to the tubers, causing brownish spots. The source of the disease is a fungus that persists for a long time in seed tubers, on plant debris.

The main control measures are agrotechnical: careful selection and storage of healthy tubers, without mechanical damage; timely cleaning from haulm areas.

In the spring, before planting, seed treatment with a solution of potassium permanganate. When the first spots of late blight appear, you can use 1% Bordeaux liquid, medex (10-15 g per 1 liter of water), polycarbacin, 80% s. p. (4 g), copper oxychloride, 90% s. n. (4 g), etc.

SLUGS

They damage vegetable crops, potatoes, strawberries, eating round holes in fruits and leaves; harmfulness increases in years with wet summers and autumns. Slugs are active in the evening, at night and early in the morning, leaving traces on plants and the ground in the form of silvery stripes; go into hiding for the day.

These pests are very moisture-loving, if there is little water, they die. The greatest damage is caused in rainy years when growing plants on waterlogged heavy soils.

Preventive measures: cleanliness of plantings from weeds, their non-thickening, systematic loosening of the soil. Effectively catching pests under specially arranged shelters - wet burlap, laying out pieces of slate, boards on moist soil. In the evening, plants are pollinated with ash, fluffy lime, powdered superphosphate, and tobacco dust. The use of metaldehyde is very effective.

Large butterflies 5.5-6 cm in size with white wings: black corners are clearly defined on the front ones. Pupae hibernate on tree trunks and shrubs, fences, walls of buildings. Butterflies fly out in late April - early May. The eggs are laid on the underside of the leaves (yellowish, about 1.2 mm, ribbed). The caterpillars first stick together, gnawing the flesh from the underside of the leaves, then spread, often eating the leaves completely. Adult pests are yellow-green, with black spots and dots, up to 40 mm long.

Of the preventive measures, deep digging of the soil for planting is effective. Against caterpillars of younger ages, a double (in 7-8 days) treatment of plantings with preparations of dendrobacillin, lepidocide is practiced, the treatment of plants with tobacco dust in half with ashes, infusions and decoctions are widely used.

Sucking insects that damage currants, gooseberries, raspberries, strawberries, a number of ornamental crops, which leads to a decrease in yield, deterioration of winter hardiness of plants. The development of pests is facilitated by dry hot weather. Females, which become orange-red in autumn, overwinter under plant debris. Ticks live (larvae - greenish-yellow) on the underside of the leaves, braiding them with the thinnest cobwebs. In places of damage, light dots are formed, then discolored areas (leaf marbling).

Preventive control measures: autumn-spring digging of the soil under the bushes, removal of fallen leaves. In the spring, during bud break, they are treated with colloidal sulfur (except for gooseberries).

Small sucking insects damaging apple, pear, plum, blackthorn, hawthorn and many other fruit and indoor plants. They cause premature fall of leaves, a decrease in growth and ugliness of shoots, and with a strong spread, drying out and death of plants. Eggs hibernate under the shields of dead females on the bark. The larvae appear in the spring, at the end of the flowering of the apple tree, they are inactive.

Pest eggs are destroyed by early spring spraying with nitrafen; mobile larvae of the first instars are destroyed with organophosphorus preparations.

Scale insects often cover the bark with a continuous layer. In this case, it is necessary to abundantly moisten the surface of the plants with the working fluid. Before spraying, prune trees, remove dry branches and root shoots, clean boles and skeletal branches from particles of dead bark, mosses, lichens and lime residues.

Damages raspberries and strawberries, especially on old plantings. Pests hibernate under fallen leaves and lumps of earth. At first, the beetles feed on young leaves. By the beginning of strawberry flowering, the females lay their eggs inside the buds, while gnawing the pedicel. The hatched larvae live, feed and pupate inside the buds. Summer generations of pests feed on leaves, making holes in them.

Among the control measures, the main ones are agrotechnical: periodic change of planting sites for strawberries and raspberries; these cultures should not be placed side by side; cleaning plantings from old leaves and loosening the soil. With a limited distribution of pests, damaged buds should be collected and destroyed; in case of mass damage - during the budding period, 5-6 days before flowering and after harvesting - plantings are treated with INTA-VIR.

Damages most fruit and deciduous trees. The eggs of the pest overwinter in cracks in the bark, usually near the kidneys. Caterpillars hatch in spring before flowering. As an adult, they are yellowish green, 20 cm long with a dark longitudinal stripe on the back and three white stripes on the sides; eat buds, buds and young leaves; damaged parts of the plant are entwined with cobwebs. By the beginning of summer, the caterpillars go into the soil to a depth of 5-12 cm, where they pupate. In September - October, butterflies appear: males with well-developed yellow-gray wings with a span of about 30 mm, while females have underdeveloped wings.

In autumn, trapping belts are effective, forcing females to lay eggs on the bark below the belt, where they are easy to collect and destroy; in spring, before bud break, the trees are sprayed with nitrafen (20-30 g per 1 liter of water), later against hatching caterpillars - with lepidocide (2-3 g per 1 liter of water), INTA-VIR.

Damages plum, sloe, apricot, peach. Pest eggs overwinter in cracks in the bark near the kidneys. In early spring, white hairy insects 2-3 mm in size appear on the inside of the leaves. The leaves become spoon-shaped and dry; fruits become ugly, rot.

This pest reproduces in huge quantities: its colonies cover the underside of the leaves with a continuous dense layer. Soot fungus often develops on aphid secretions.

In the spring, before bud break, spraying with 2.5-3% nitrafen is carried out; at the beginning of bud break, a soap solution (20-30 g per 1 liter of water), tobacco infusion, INTA-VIR is used against hatching larvae.

Regular cutting and destruction of tops, fattening shoots, root shoots is necessary. Of great prophylactic importance is the autumn cleaning of boles and uterine branches from particles of dead bark and their subsequent whitewashing with lime milk.

Damages mainly young leaves of red and white currants. In early spring, small golden or orange insects appear on the inside of the leaf blades. In places of damage, the leaf tissue grows in the form of dark red or yellow protrusions and swellings (galls). In autumn, females lay eggs on plants near the buds of young shoots.

Infected bushes are sprayed with nitrafen before bud break (about 30 g per 1 liter of solution); on blossoming leaves, you can apply feverfew, a solution of soap and tobacco infusion, or a combination of them; 1-2-fold treatment with INTA-VIR.

In autumn, clean the bark, immediately burn the cleaning, rake and destroy fallen leaves, dig up the tree trunks. After flowering, treatment with anometrin-N, 25% k.e. (1 g per 1 liter of water), karbofos, 10% a.e. and 10% s. n. (7.5-9 g), You need to spray the underside of the leaves, where the bugs and their larvae are located.

NON-CHEMICAL PROTECTION

TOBACCO. It is used against fleas, bedbugs, sawflies, caterpillars, scale insects, spider mites, aphids and other sucking pests.

Decoction; raw tobacco is poured with water in a ratio of 1:10 and boiled for 30 minutes, defended for a day, filtered; before spraying, dilute with water 1:3 and add 40 g of laundry soap per 10 liters of solution.

Infusion: raw materials are poured with water (1:10), infused at a temperature of 25-30 degrees for 24 hours with systematic stirring; before use, dilute with water in a ratio of 1:3.

A decoction of tobacco with onion peel: 200 g of raw tobacco and 200 g of onion peel are boiled for 30 minutes in 2-3 liters of water, cooled, diluted with water to 10 liters, soap is added, filtered.

A mixture of tobacco dust with ash or lime - in equal proportions; used for dusting at the rate of 30-40 g per 1 m2.

Tansy - an active insecticide, used to combat moths, aphids, glass, gooseberry moth, apple and pear codling moths.

Broth: 1 kg of dried green raw materials are boiled in 10 liters of water over low heat for 1-2 hours, defended, filtered, 40 g of laundry soap are added.

Infusion: 200 g of dry raw materials per 10 liters of water; boil for 30 minutes, followed by infusion for 1-2 days; before using for spraying, filter, add soap.

Tansy powder is used to pollinate affected plants. Freshly picked inflorescences and leaves are used to repel mosquitoes: bunches are laid out or hung indoors, open areas of the body are rubbed with greenery.

PEPPER HOT. Used against various types of aphids, bedbugs, white caterpillars, scoops, moths, raspberry and strawberry weevil, scale insects, sawflies, flea beetles.

Infusion: 100 g of dry pods or 250 g of fresh ones are poured into 2 liters of water, boiled for 1 hour and infused for 2 days, the pepper is rubbed, squeezed, the solution is filtered.

Before bud break, plants are treated with a solution with the addition of water 1:20 and laundry soap; after bud break, treatment is carried out with a weaker solution - 1:40 or 1:50.

When working with both fresh and dry raw materials, it must be borne in mind that getting it on the mucous membranes causes a very strong burning sensation.

Magazine "Homesteading"
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plant diseases lead to the loss of the crop and the death of the plant itself - a long work will be wasted. That is why you need to know them well and be able to deal with them. The article tells about the ten most common plant diseases, about their signs and treatment.

I invite you to the group on Subscribe.ru for summer residents, gardeners: "Country hobbies"

Plants, like any living beings, are susceptible. And as in any case with the disease, the best way is to prevent or detect diseases at an early stage. But if this moment is missed? What to do and how to treat?

First you need to recognize which infection, bacterium or fungus has overcome the plant.

Below is a list of the most common diseases.

Plant diseases and their treatment. The most common diseases

1. Septoria. It is easy to identify by yellow spots on the leaves, which begin to dry out. It is necessary to treat a diseased plant with half-percent copper oxychloride or one-percent Bordeaux liquid.

2. Powdery mildew. Its sign is a white coating carried by the errsife fungus. Ordinary laundry soap or soda ash will help to cope with it.

3. Gray rot or botrytis. This disease is distinguished by a fluffy gray coating. Plants that have become ill with this disease must be treated with Bordeaux liquid, boric acid or a half-percent solution of copper oxychloride.

4. Rust. It is carried by a fungus puncture. Justifying its name, the disease manifests itself in the form of rust-colored spots that eat holes in the leaves. During the growing season, the plant must be treated with copper chloride, before bud break - with iron sulphate.

5. Leaf curl. Phlox plants are usually susceptible to it. A sign is twisted leaves that begin to turn yellow. This disease is very difficult to treat, so the diseased plant must be isolated.

6. Jaundice. Asters often become its victims. As in the previous case, it is better to destroy diseased plants so that they do not infect healthy ones.

7. White spotting. It can be identified by round white spots. The pathogen easily dies when treated with a one percent solution of Bordeaux liquid.

8. Black leg. This disease is manifested by root rot. The best treatment would be a 3% solution of copper sulphate or a 0.04% solution of cryptalone.

9. Penicillary rot. Plant bulbs are exposed to it. The only treatment is prevention, which consists in carefully inspecting the bulbs before planting.

10. Verticillium wilt. If signs of this disease appear on the plant, then they must be separated and destroyed, and the healthy ones should be poured with water with the addition of Bordeaux liquid.

Tomatoes hurt last summerlate blight , Alternaria and, what is especially alarming is the flashbacterial cancer of tomatoes .

Three years ago I settled in a greenhousecladosporiosis , a very common disease.

In addition to these "gifts", you can list a lot of others: virosis, mycosis, bacteriosis, phytoplasmosis, wilting, nematodosis - and each of these areas has dozens of severe diseases that are caused by pathogenic microbes.

But, as they say, the Lord created "each creature in pairs." Scientists are looking forfind useful microbes capable of destroying the pathogen, or at least contain its spread.

I already wrote in last year's magazine a long article about the cabbage trouble of an all-Russian scale -vascular and mucous bacterioses . Cabbage is my favorite crop and I do my best to save itfrom pests (I cover the planted seedlings with spunbond) andfrom diseases using the bacteria present in the preparationplanriz . Try before sowing cabbage seeds, i.e. until mid-March to find this microbiological preparation.

Insofar as vascular and mucous bacterioses are transmitted throughseeds , then it is necessary to pickle them with Planriz before sowing. As soon as shoots appear, carefully inspect them. Cotyledon leaves should be wide, evenly colored without any spots and chlorosis.

Otherwise, immediately spray them with Planriz solution, which includes bacteria from the Pseudomonas family, they produce several types of antibiotics and growth stimulants, due to which the plants recover. Planriz do two sprayings with an interval of 20 days.

Planriz can be used for prevention not only from bacterial diseases, but also from fungal diseases (blackleg, wilting, root and fruit rot). I treated apples with these microbes a day before picking them from the tree so that they would not rot during storage. I treated strawberries with Planriz before harvesting for gray rot; cucumbers - from root rot; garlic cloves before planting them in the ground.

I want to draw special attention to the fact that this drugno waiting period , i.e. it is absolutely harmless and the fact that it has a short shelf life. So be sure to check it before buying.its expiration date .

Bacteria from the familypseudomonads are part of my favorite drugAgate - 25 . Whoever sprays them with all the plants 2 times a month will always have a harvest.planriz can be used together with poisons for pests. For example, withDecis .

Bacteria of this family are included in another biological product -Pseudobacterin - 2 . This is my wand - a lifesaver in the fight against a very bad, difficult to remove disease in tomatoes -cladosporiosis (olive, or brown spotting).

Pseudobacterin-2 is recommended for soaking cucumber and tomato seeds against root rot and for spraying these crops against olive blotch. I draw your attention: the shelf life of the drug is only 45 days, and the storage temperature is 4-5 about , i.e. store it in the refrigerator or cellar.

bacteria bacillus subtilis(hay stick) our summer residents know well. On its basis, the preparations Bactofit, Fitosporin, Alirin B, Gamair work.

- Fusarium wilt (root rot),

- fruit rot (cucumbers and tomatoes),

- powdery mildew, ascochitosis,

- late blight and alternariosis of tomatoes,

- cucumber anthracnose.

Plants three times spilled with a solution of drugs. The first time - after sowing seeds (soil). The second time - seedlings after landing in a permanent place. The third time - fruiting plants at the beginning of the laying of fruits.

These drugs are onlyhold back development of pathogens, so it is important to apply them several times and from the very beginning of the growing season. If you miss the deadline, it will be too late. If signs of the disease appear, it cannot be stopped by these means.

And what are the biological means of protecting tomatoes frombacterial cancer and stem necrosis ? These diseases last summer showed their incredible harmfulness. God forbid they appear in your greenhouse.

What are their symptoms?

A typical diagnostic sign of the disease is the darkening of the affected vessels. Cut off the shoot or leaf of the tomato closer to the petiole and look at the cut: is there a brown vascular ring on it, a yellow core, a void?

The first symptoms are manifested in the unilateral wilting of the leaf lobes, while the fading leaf lobes turn yellow along the edge and twist slightly. Diseased leaves turn brown, dry up,but don't fall . Pay attention to the stems of the tomato, dark stripes become visible on them, which later break, and a liquid flows out of the cracks, which contains pathogenic bacteria, they lead to the further spread of this severe infection.

First, the lower leaves are affected, then, as bacteria-pathogens move up through the vessels, dark ulcers appear on the petioles, and then on the fruits of tomatoes.

Another, more common and more dangerous form of injuryfruits - internal, when infectious bacteria from the vessels penetrate into the fetus. Such fruits have an ugly shape, and the seeds in them are underdeveloped and unsimilar. Many fruits fall off.

If the defeat of tomatoes by bacterial cancer occurs later, i.e. somewhere in the month of August, the fruits may outwardly have a normal appearance, but the strands of vessels going to the seed chambers turn from white to yellow, and the fruits become tasteless. Here the main danger is that the seeds from such fruits remain viable. Summer residents can collect them for divorce and thus contribute to the spread of this disease.

Protective Measures . Tomato hybrids resistant to this disease are currently unknown. Therefore, try not to bring the infection into the greenhouse.

Ventilate it often! Even on cool May and June days.

What should be done when signs of damage appear?

- Reduce the concentration of nutrient solutions, do not water with a solution of weeds, do not add organic matter, i.e. take awaynitrogen from nutrient solution.

- To remove stepchildren, use garden shears, dip them more often in a solution of iodine. Do not break out stepchildren with your hands.

- You can not stepson plants in the morning when they are wet from condensation.

I am so afraid of the appearance of this disease in my greenhouses that I began to take a vial of brilliant green with me and lubricate the wounds after trimming the lower leaves. Most often, bacterial cancer enters our area with seeds. Therefore, be sure to disinfect them before sowing. How to do this correctly, we will tell in the next issue of our magazine.

If you didn’t disinfect the soil in the greenhouse in the fall, thennecessarily do it in the spring. Read about it in our spring magazines.

In the meantime, I want to give one more piece of advice: choose tomato seeds withgenerative type of growth , because they are less affected by bacteriosis, their leaves do not curl into a ram's horn in the heat. Carefully read the information on the back of the package, where seed producers must tell us what type of growth this variety or hybrid belongs to. Unfortunately, such information is provided to us only by reputable firms tradingprofessional seeds.

Hundreds of new small seed packaging companies have now appeared on the Russian seed market. They catch, as a rule, novice summer residents for bright packages and stupid promising texts - fairy tales on the back of the package.

Professionals don't behave like that. Their characteristics are reserved, they are given only in essence, they are aimed at helping us in growing this variety, or hybrid. Tomatoes are supposed to taste like tomatoes, not watermelons!

For my part, I try to invite stores selling quality seeds to my magazine.

Today, our guide to the world of professional seeds will be Sergey Yuryevich Tsarevsky (Biotechnologies Kinel LLC).

The most important dangers that await gardeners and gardeners in July are cherry coccomycosis, late blight of potatoes, spider mites that infect fruit bushes, apple codling moth that destroys apple and pear trees, cabbage and onion flies, whites and moths. If you do not take effective measures to combat pests in the garden, you can lose the crop, and in the most neglected cases, the plantings themselves.

July is the month of mass development of the spider mite. With a strong defeat by them, the leaves of strawberries, raspberries, currants turn brown and dry. Young leaves become whitish, yellowish from light spots (food places) of the pest, and in places where they accumulate they are covered with cobwebs. Of fruit and berry crops, apple trees, black and red currants, grapes are especially affected by this pest; from decorative ones - roses, wild roses, primroses, etc. Processing the garden and vegetable garden from pests at this time is simply necessary.

On many varieties of cherries, coccomycosis develops in July. With this disease, pale yellow spots appear on the upper side of the leaves. They grow rapidly, which leads to massive premature shedding of leaves. If you do not take measures to protect the garden and garden from diseases and pests, the fruits on the affected trees are deformed, develop poorly, become watery, tasteless. As a result, weakened trees tend to freeze in winter. The fungus-causative agent of the disease overwinters on fallen leaves. If you have set yourself the task under the slogan "fight pests of the garden and vegetable garden", you must carefully collect prematurely fallen leaves, burn them or bury them deeper in the ground.

Attention! From the end of June to July 10, caterpillars of the codling moth of the second generation hatch. To protect the garden and garden from pests, it is necessary to spray fruit-bearing apple and pear trees of autumn and winter varieties, as well as common quince.

The fight against diseases and garden pests of the second generation is more difficult, since the years of many insects are extended in time. Therefore, at least two sprayings with pesticides are necessary with an interval of 7-8 days at the end of last and at the beginning of this month.

The best garden pest control products

The best means of controlling pests in the garden and garden are the insecticides Iskra-M, Iskra Double Effect, Sempai, Kinmiks, Aliot, Fufanon-Nova and Karbofos. Spraying is carried out in the evening in calm weather.

Treatment against codling moth can be combined with foliar top dressing. This remedy for garden and garden pests is prepared as follows: you need to add 20 g of any water-soluble fertilizer to 10 liters of pesticide solution.

Spud again late and mid-ripening cabbage - the second year of cabbage and onion flies, as well as cabbage white butterflies and moths, begins. In wet years at this time, potatoes and tomatoes are strongly affected by late blight. Profit Gold is also an effective means of combating garden pests and diseases in July.

Means to combat garden pests and diseases (photo and table)

Below is a table of spraying from garden pests and a photo of their control in the garden.

Table of spraying plants in July:

Days of July	culture	pest or disease	Preparations	Note
	Apple, pear, quince	codling moth	Any insecticide*	Control spraying
	Fruit and berry crops, ornamental shrubs, flowers	powdery mildew	Topaz, Acrobat, Raek, Skor, Thiovit Jet, colloidal sulfur	Prophylactically or at the first sign
			Antiklesh
	Cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini, squash, pumpkins, gourds and other vegetable crops	Aphids, mites	Bitoxibacillin, Lepidocide	During the ripening period of the crop in this and subsequent months in the presence of pests and diseases
		Mushroom spots, rot and other diseases, including late blight	Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B, Glyokladin, Gamair, Fitolavin
	Plum, cherry plum, peach, apricot	Aphid, false shield	One of the insecticides*	If the pest appeared
	Currants, gooseberries and other berry bushes	Pest complex	Any insecticide*	After full harvest
	strawberries	Leaf spot (ramularia)	Abiga-Peak or other copper-containing drug	If necessary after harvest
	Tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, cabbage	Scoop garden	Lepidocide, Bitoxibacillin, Fitoverm	When the first caterpillars appear, followed by a repeat in 7-8 days
	vegetable crops	Wireworms and other soil pests	Vallar, Barguzin, Bazudin, Pochin	Strictly according to the instructions with repeated application of the drug after 20-25 days
			Anteater, Anteater, Zemlin	Waiting time from processing to harvest 30 days
	Grape	mildew, anthracnose, oidium, mites	Profit Gold, Abiga-Peak, Thiovit Jet, colloidal sulfur	Late maturing varieties, unstable varieties, wet weather
	Roses, flower crops	Aphids and other sucking pests	Confidor, Commander, Bison, Tanrek	Repeat if necessary
		rust on leaves	Abiga-Peak or any copper-containing drug	Collection and destruction of falling diseased leaves
	Coniferous crops	Sawfly, moth, aphid, mealybug, pine silkworm	Any insecticide*	Two to three times within a month with an interval of 7-10 days, if pests have appeared