Why dig trees in the spring. Autumn care for fruit trees. Dig up the trunk circle, black steam

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Garden care in the autumn period consists of a set of works that must be carried out on time and in accordance with all the rules.

Care fruit trees in October it consists in a thorough check of plants, pruning and removal of shoots and tops, as well as whitewashing boles.

In November, it is necessary to collect and burn fallen or cut branches and leaves. It is also recommended to dig up the soil around the trees this month. When digging, plants can be fed - add superphosphate (100 g under a tree), potash and nitrogen fertilizers (50 g under a tree).

Pruning fruit trees
In autumn, sanitary pruning is carried out in the garden. It consists in removing all weak and crossing shoots from the trees, as well as broken and dried branches. This must be done because pests or pathogens may well hide on such branches.

Apples, pears, plums and other fruit trees are very convenient to cut in the fall, after harvesting. Trees can usually be pruned before the first frost. In November, it is no longer worth disturbing the plants: it is already cold enough for this.

To do everything right, carefully inspect the trees, make sure that the branches of each grow correctly and do not create obstacles for each other. Anything that interferes must be removed. You can form a tree crown using a pruner (cuts branches with a diameter of up to 26 mm) and a delimber (cuts branches with a diameter of up to 40 mm).

Removing tops on trees
Tops are strong, fattening shoots with large leaves and underdeveloped buds. Most often they form on old skeletal branches. Usually tops grow from dormant buds, starting to develop actively. Why are wolves so dangerous? They take away the strength of the tree, thicken its crown, and they never bear fruit.

Tops grow on a young fruit crop after the tree has been damaged. For example, you cut a large branch or it broke on its own. In old fruit trees, fattening shoots may appear after pruning. Also, excessive top dressing with nitrogen fertilizer and abundant watering can provoke the growth of tops.

You can get rid of tops with pruning. Her goal in this case is not only to thin out and lighten the crown of the tree, but also to form new young shoots, direct them along such a trajectory so that they do not thicken the crown. It is necessary to remove the fattening branches inside the crown on the ring. After cutting the tops, the wounds on the tree should be treated with garden pitch.

Protecting the bark of fruit trees
Sharp temperature changes during weather changes often lead to the fact that cracks (frost cracks) appear on the bark of fruit trees. These faults are quite deep and cause significant damage to plants. In addition, cracks can occur under the influence of the active sun (sunburn), strong winds or night cold. Pests can also cause cracks in the bark. fruit crops.

To protect the trees, trunks should be covered with whitewash or a special protective fiber in autumn. This is necessary in order to protect the trunk from direct sunlight. Whitewash can be prepared independently. To do this, dilute in 10 liters of water 2.5 kg of lime, 0.5 kg blue vitriol for disinfection and 0.1 kg of wood glue for a stronger "adhesion" to the bark.

To protect trees from damage by insects or rodents, it is necessary to use special protective nets that are wrapped around the trunk.

Autumn top dressing of fruit trees
Autumn top dressing of trees is carried out after harvesting. It is performed to improve the soil, which has been depleted over the season. In autumn, fruit trees need to be fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, preferably without nitrogen content (diammophoska, nitrophos, superphosphate).

Fertilizers are applied to the near-trunk circles - under the roots of trees. Foliar feeding at this time of the year is useless. Depending on which fertilizer you choose (liquid or dry), the principle of their application depends.

Liquid fertilizers are applied into special grooves made in the trunk circle around the tree. The more grooves, the better the effect.
To apply dry fertilizers, you first need to remove the top layer of soil (1-2 cm) in the near-stem circle, evenly distribute fertilizers and return the earth back.
In autumn, it is best to use the second feeding option, since in this way fertilizers will be absorbed by plants gradually, coming to the roots along with melted snow. Liquid formulations are more effective in spring and summer.

As a dry fertilizer, superphosphate can be applied at the rate of 100 g per 1 sq.m of the trunk circle and potash fertilizers at the rate of 50 g per 1 sq.m. After fertilizing, the soil in the near-stem circle should be covered with a layer of mowed grass - it will act as mulch.

1. Pruning garden trees
2. Tree whitewashing
3. top dressing
4. watering trees

Pruning garden trees

When all the foliage has fallen and before the start of the first frosts, garden trees are pruned. First, all dry, diseased and damaged branches are removed, then those that create thickening grow inside the crown and interfere with harvesting.

If the trees have not been pruned for many years, then pruning is done in several stages. Too much pruning can lead to the death of the tree.

Annual seedlings are not pruned. Trees begin to be pruned 2-3 years after planting to form a crown.

Be sure to remove fattening, non-fruiting shoots with large leaves that interfere with the growth of the tree and take away nutrients.

After pruning, all branches are treated with garden pitch, which must be applied after each removal of the shoots. Garden pitch is prepared from 200 g of beeswax, 100 g of rosin and 100 g of unsalted fat. Before use, the var is heated.

In the absence of var, it can be replaced with plasticine or paint.

Tree whitewashing

Whitewashing trees in autumn helps not only to fight pests, protects against diseases and sunlight, but also saves the tree from severe frosts and temperature changes.

It is better to whitewash young trees with chalk and cover not only the trunk, but also the skeletal branches.

Before whitewashing, the trees are cleaned of moss and lichens, and the old bark is removed by hand. The thickness of the whitewash should be at least 2-3 mm. Whitewash solution can be bought at the store or prepared independently. The solution consists of 10 liters of water, 2 kg of lime and 200 g of copper sulfate. You can add 1 kg of clay and straw for density. You will get a clay talker that will last a long time on a tree.

Protection against pests and rodents

Fallen leaves and fruits must be removed from the garden. Trees are cleaned of old bark, which may contain nests and pest larvae. Around the trees make a deep digging of the soil.

All trees are sprayed with a 5% solution of urea and insecticides against aphids, silkworms and leafworms.

For the prevention of diseases, spraying with preparations that contain copper will help.

To protect against rodents, protective nets, roofing material, spruce or pine branches are used. It is necessary to put rags or burlap under the roofing material to avoid overheating of the tree. Such wrapping will help the trees survive winter frosts.

top dressing

Feeding in the fall strengthens the trees and helps them survive frosts. Fertilizers are applied in October and the soil is dug deep.

Fruit trees need potassium-phosphorus fertilizers in autumn. It is necessary to add 300 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate under each tree. It is better to apply these fertilizers in liquid form, so absorption by the roots occurs faster.

It is also necessary to add humus, young trees need about 30 kg, adults - 50 kg.

The use of complex mineral fertilizers facilitates tree care. Some types of such fertilizers are specially designed for autumn dressings and contain required amount vitamins and microelements.

watering trees

Watering trees in autumn is only necessary if there was little rain in summer. Excessive moisture can lead to overgrowth of branches, cracks in the bark and reduced frost resistance.

In other cases, the last watering is carried out no later than October and is at least 4 buckets per 1 sq.m.

After watering, digging and loosening are carried out.

Young trees need regular care and watering in order to make it easier for them to take root in open field and develop properly.

We hasten to warn you that recently planted trees require special care, different from that used for already established and fruiting trees. Of course, there are similar procedures, however, the frequency and intensity of their implementation will differ.

In the aisles of a young garden they cultivate vegetable crops, strawberries and potatoes. It is undesirable to plant bushes of currants, gooseberries, raspberries and other crops under the crown of fruit trees.

Fruit tree care

In young gardens, it is necessary to achieve an annual growth of shoots of at least 40-50 cm, and in plantations that have come into fruition - 30-35 cm. With this in mind, the doses of organic and mineral fertilizers used are set:

• If the growth is weak, then the plants are not sufficiently provided with nutrients. In autumn, manure, compost, phosphorus and potash fertilizers are applied to the near-stem area with a circle diameter of 2-2.5 m.
• Then the soil is dug up directly under the crowns of trees to a depth of 10-12 cm, and behind the projection of the branches - by 18-20 cm (taking into account the depth of the roots).
• Usually in young gardens, based on one near-stem area (with a circle diameter of 2-2.5 m), 25-30 kg of manure or 40-45 g of a.i. phosphoric and 50-60 g a.i. potash fertilizers. Nitrogen fertilizers - 40-50 g a.i. contribute annually in two doses - in early spring (50%) and at the beginning of increased growth of shoots (50%).

The best results are achieved by those who, in early spring and 10-15 days after flowering, use slurry diluted with water (1:3), a solution of mullein (1:8), (1:15) or ammonium nitrate as top dressings for fruit trees (30-35 g per 10 liters of water). After the June shedding of the ovaries, the trees are fed with a complex of mineral fertilizers (nitrogen, phosphorus, potash). When fertilizing apple trees, fertilizers are applied not close to the stem of the tree, but into annular grooves dug along the periphery of the crown. Immediately after feeding, the trees are watered with warm water.

Top dressing of fruit trees in areas with sandy soil

Manure, phosphorus and potash fertilizers are applied annually, and nitrogen fertilizers are applied in early spring and during the period of active shoot growth. Fruit trees react positively to spraying with a weak solution of urea (50 g of urea per 10 liters of water) immediately after the leaves bloom and two weeks after flowering. Before leaf fall, but still on green leaves, the trees are sprayed with a more concentrated solution of urea (350-400 g of urea per 10 liters of water). These measures improve the supply of plants with nutrients and suppress the development of fungal diseases.

Fruit trees are most demanding on water in spring and in the first half of summer.

During the dry season, water them more often and more abundantly. It is usually watered at the beginning of flowering, a week after flowering and after harvesting. In practice, it is enough to water fruit trees once every two to three weeks (depending on soil moisture). Frequent and excessively abundant watering is harmful both to the soil (nutrients are washed out) and to the roots (oxygen starvation appears). In the second half of summer, tree feeding is stopped, watering is limited so as not to cause prolonged growth of shoots and a decrease in winter hardiness of trees.

On flat areas, soil turfing in the aisles of the garden is carried out only after the trees enter the time of full fruiting. Before sodding in autumn, organic and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied to the site in high doses, embedding them in deeper layers of the soil. In the spring, the surface of the site is leveled with a rake, grass mixture is sown per 1 sq. m area 3 g of fescue, 2 g of bluegrass meadow, the soil is rolled and mulched with peat, humus. Then sprinkler irrigation is carried out. The green mass of grasses is mowed at least 5-6 times during the growing season and left in place in quality.

Grasses remove many nutrients from the soil. Given this, when sodding the soil, fertilizing with slurry after flowering is mandatory, after two weeks - with mineral fertilizers (80 g of superphosphate, 40 g of potassium salt and 50 g of urea per 10 l of water). After fertilizing, water abundantly with water. In autumn, once every 2-3 years, two annular grooves are dug under the crown of a fruit tree, where 10 kg of rotted manure, 150 superphosphate and 100 g of potassium chloride are added per 1 running meter and the soil is dug up.

Autumn and winter care for apple and pear trees

In autumn (October), the stems and bases of the skeletal branches of old trees are cleaned of dead bark, whitened with lime mortar (2.5 kg of lime, 0.5 kg of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water). Young trees are whitewashed with a chalk solution. For the winter, the stems and bases of the skeletal branches of apple and pear trees are tightly tied against rodents with raspberry stems, young branches of cherry, hazel, and willow. For these purposes, you can use roofing felt, roofing material and wire mesh, after tying the trunks of trees with matting or burlap. Roofing felt and roofing material are whitened from above with lime (chalk) mortar. Used nylon stockings and fiberglass are also used to tie the stem of trees for the winter.

In winter, boles and bases of skeletal branches are covered with snow. On the warmest days, the snow around the trunk is compacted with a foot so that mice cannot get through. After every heavy snowfall, the trees are spudded with snow. In the spring, they make sure that the heavy snow crust does not break the branches.

Some gardeners mistakenly believe that by covering snow at the end of winter under the crowns of fruit trees with a thick layer of sawdust, straw, peat or manure, you can push the start of flowering to a later date and avoid frost damage to flowers. This technique does not bring the desired results, since it only delays the thawing of the soil, and not flowering. Buds in the crown of an apple tree bloom at an average daily air temperature in the garden of 8-9 degrees Celsius, regardless of the soil temperature in the root zone. At average daily air temperatures of 10-12 degrees Celsius, the flowering period begins. Shelter of snow under the crowns of trees with a thick layer of peat, sawdust, manure disrupts the provision of branches with water and nutrients.

Some gardeners pre-place containers (tub, barrel) with warm water under low-growing trees, and in the evening before frosts, the tree and the water container are covered with a synthetic film. During the warmest hours of the day, the film is removed so that the flowers are pollinated by bees.

At the end of May, trapping belts (made of paper, burlap) are placed on the stems and bases of the skeletal branches of fruit-bearing apple trees, where they climb. They are periodically destroyed.

Harvest

It is very important to correctly determine the removable maturity of the fruit. At this time, the growth of apples in volume stops, summer varieties acquire a characteristic color and taste, and easily come off the fruit. The fruits of summer varieties of pears are removed a little earlier before they acquire a bright color in order to prevent their overripeness. For harvesting fruits, garden ladders, column baskets lined with burlap inside, boxes and packaging material (wood chips) are prepared in advance. The fruits are removed in the morning after the dew has dried, sorted, stored in a fruit storage, cellars, cellars, where the temperature is maintained from 0 to 3 degrees Celsius, air humidity -85-90%.

Autumn is the time to take care of the condition personal plot and garden. Creation comfortable conditions overwintering for fruit trees is a top priority for gardeners. What does autumn garden maintenance include? In anticipation winter cold, after the leaves have completely fallen off, you can start sanitary pruning, thinning, lowering the crowns of perennial trees to 4-4.5 m. It is better to postpone detailed rejuvenating pruning until spring. Why? First, there are fears of the possibility of trees freezing. Secondly, places where perennial branches of large diameter are cut down can become a source of frost damage even when they are treated with garden pitch or oil paint.

In autumn, a thorough inspection is carried out, dry, damaged branches are removed. Together with the removal of diseased, dry branches, they clean the trees of fruits dried on the branches, burn nests, egg-laying pests, cut out growths, remove leaf litter, root shoots, where many types of aphids have accumulated.

Protection of fruit trees from rodents

All this must be destroyed immediately. When sections are formed with a diameter of more than 2 cm, they are covered with garden pitch. The stems of young trees along the entire length are tied with a special non-woven material or other improvised means to protect against damage by mouse-like rodents with a deepening of the strapping material into the soil by 3-5 cm.

For example, I do this. I wrap young trees with narrow bandages cut from spunbond or lutrasil. And then I begin to dig in - the ends of the bandage are dug in with earth, as if deepened.

To keep the bark from cracking

To prevent the appearance, frost crackers on the boles of fruit-bearing trees carry out their whitewashing, having previously cleaned the trunk.

Processing trees, shrubs, grapes

On stone fruits, diseases can be treated with copper preparations in autumn, for example, and on pome breeds - with Preparation 30. Treatment with Preparation 30 can be transferred to spring. Pass it over the swelling kidneys.

In the vineyard, plants are also carefully inspected after harvest. Before sheltering for the winter, be sure to take care of keeping the plants in a healthy state. If the presence of the leaf form of phylloxera has been noticed, it is necessary in early spring, on swelling buds, treat with Preparation 30. Unripe shoots should be cut out in autumn. If shoots affected by anthracnose are noticed, from autumn or early spring, the bushes are treated with 3% Bordeaux liquid - this is one of the universal ones that has the longest duration of protective action.

Fruit tree nutrition

In late autumn, organic, organo-mineral or mineral phosphorus-potassium products are added - superphosphate, potassium sulfate, others, 6-9 g of active substance per 1 m 2. Fertilizers are applied into holes or wells 20-30 cm deep in the zone of near-stem circles of trees at a distance of 0.5-1 m outside the crown projection or for digging. On each square meter, one or two holes or wells are made.

For the orchard, long-acting fertilizers are the most important. The main ones are organic and organo-mineral fertilizers. Nutrients are released from them slowly as they are decomposed by microorganisms. Part organic fertilizers(manure, composts, etc.) includes the entire set of nutrients necessary for perennial fruit and berry plants, as well as hormones, vitamins, etc. Their introduction affects the growth and yield of trees for 3-5 years, while the yield increases to 25 and even 50 percent.

The composition of organic-mineral fertilizers includes both organic (peat, humates, etc.) and mineral fertilizers.

According to the Institute of Horticulture and Viticulture, in the fourth year after the application of mixed fertilizers (organic and mineral) under a fruit-bearing apple tree (at a depth of 15-18 cm), the content of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium available for a plant in the soil at a depth of up to 60 cm is several times higher than their content in unfertilized areas of the garden. This is due to the fact that fertilizers applied locally during the autumn digging of the garden by 2/3 bayonet spades of fertilizer are localized in the application zone, creating nutrition centers within the boundaries of the main distribution of the root system of perennial plants.

In addition, in areas of a garden or vegetable garden where organo-mineral fertilizers were used when digging the soil, you can also notice that it has become looser and crumbles well. This means an improvement in its agrophysical properties.

When using fertilizers from autumn, it must be remembered that the introduction of fast-acting species can lead to the activation of growth processes in trees against the background of warm weather and sufficient moisture in the soil, which will cause serious damage in winter by low negative air temperatures.

For autumn garden soil dressing in late autumn (November), as a rule, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (nitrophoska, nitroammofoska) are used, and in more early dates(October) you can apply ammonium forms of nitrogen fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate). At the same time, the dose of nitrogen fertilizers is crushed: in the fall, 1/3-1/2 doses are applied; in early spring, 2-3 weeks before the flowering of trees, intrasoil top dressing with fast-acting nitrogen fertilizers is used (1/2-1/3 of the main dose); in summer period with irrigation water, the remaining dose of nitrogen is applied.

Autumn filling the soil with fertilizers contributes to the formation of the resistance of fruit plants to adverse environmental conditions, since the winter hardiness of trees is determined to a large extent by how many nutrients they accumulate in preparation for winter and to what extent these substances turn into protective ones. A prerequisite for a sufficient accumulation of reserve nutrients is the optimization of the nutritional regime of fruit plants, which allows for the dynamic growth of all organs, withstand spring temperature changes, bloom profusely in winter and form a full-fledged crop.

Watering the garden

In connection with the upcoming winter cold, you need to give enough water to the trees, shrubs with water - to make the plants easier to winter.

Do I need to dig trees in the fall?

After the leaves fall, that is, when the fruit trees, shrubs "sleep", their active life is stopped, they begin the main tillage in the garden - digging. Digging the soil in the garden is necessary to maintain the optimal fine-clod structure by mixing - the top layer of soil (with the destroyed structure) moves down. At the same time, the lower layer moves to the surface.

Deep digging of the soil in autumn creates the conditions for the formation of a deep root system. This helps to increase its resistance to sharp drops in temperature in winter and significant increases in summer. The approximate depth of digging the soil in autumn, especially in the young, should be up to 30 cm - on the bayonet of a shovel, and closer to the trunk - 10-15 cm.

The increase in the number of warm winters (especially the last two years) is also felt by the inhabitants of the Kuban. Despite belonging to the southern latitudes, the Kuban people were previously familiar with snowy frosty winters with an abundance of snow and frosts down to -15 and -25 ° С. With the onset of cold weather, garden plants unanimously entered into a state of deep dormancy for the entire winter period. Early February thaws affected mainly stone fruits (apricot, cherry plum, cherry, peach). Currently, warm winters contribute to a decrease in the winter hardiness of fruit crops in general. For the most common and sustainable crop in the Kuban - apple trees - the onset of stressful situations has become more frequent, contributing to a decrease in productivity. Stabilization of the situation provides for the hard work of gardeners in several stages.

First of all, it is important to take timely action on garden plot a complex of agrotechnical measures available to every amateur gardener in order to minimize possible Negative consequences warm winters. To do this, in the fall, with the beginning of leaf fall, carry out digging or deep loosening (to a depth of at least 12-15 cm), which will ensure moisture saturation not only of the upper soil layer, but also of deeper horizons, improve the structure and aeration of the root layer.

When writing, the materials of the newspaper "Niva Kuban" - 2014 - No. 39 were used.

The time after harvest in late August - early September is important for the gardener. During the period are being prepared garden trees and flowers for wintering, plantings are fertilized with nutrients. If you do not perform certain actions before the onset of the first cold weather, you can be left without a good harvest. To do this, you need to know how to properly care for the garden in the fall.

Autumn work on the site

In order for the growth on the trees to adequately increase, and the soil for planting to be fertile, several things need to be done. Activities are carried out after the harvest, when the last foliage has flown around. Now the plant is starting to prepare for retirement.

Thus, gardening during the autumn months is busy and important. Fruitful labor favorably affects the life of trees and plants. Timely implementation of measures allows you to get a larger harvest than in the previous year.

September is a very important month for any gardener. He is rich in urgent matters for cleaning gardens, orchards and fields. The main occupation is considered

• Collection of fruits, namely pears and apples. Timely selected time is the key to long-term storage of fruits. To determine the readiness of apples, you need to conduct a small experiment. Pick a ripe-looking apple. Cut it in half with a knife if it contains white seeds or slightly Brown, then the fruit is left on the branch. The recommended harvest time is the middle of the first month of autumn. If you stretch with the collection, then the delay will also negatively affect the fruits, as well as early harvesting. The fruits will overripe and about them long-term storage not worth thinking.
• In the garden, autumn time is the time for planting fruit crops, such as apricots, and all kinds can be planted. Cuttings from currants and grapes take root well before winter. Rooted young plants will be ready for planting in the spring months.
• All shrubs and trees are pruned. Dry, broken and diseased vines are removed. After that, it is imperative to spray crops from pests and diseases.
• Do not delay with the latest harvest of vegetable crops. They will not be able to ripen anymore, and green tomatoes can still be canned or pickled. Also, do not leave planting potatoes. The first frosts will negatively affect the tubers left.
• September is the ideal time to prepare planting material for growing winter crops and plant seeds in polycarbonate greenhouses or greenhouses. Also now you can plant garlic cloves, then they will give a good increase in the first days of spring.
• Those who cultivate flowers in September are very busy. They are collecting seeds, as well as planting bulbs, etc.

October is marked by the fact that at this time it is recommended:

• Replant shrubs and trees to a new place of residence. But before starting work, they wait until the plant completely sheds all foliage.
• You should also take care of the fruits late deadline collection. They are checked, like the September fruits, so that they do not have time to overripe. Many varieties are laid to ripen.
• The next step is top dressing, simultaneously with loosening and tillage.
• Do not forget about the landing of green manure. The best time landing - the first days of October for the southern regions. For central regions In Russia and the northern districts, spring crops no longer need to be planted, they will not have time to grow. Rye and winter wheat is the time to plant. Until the sub-zero temperature sets in, these crops will have time to sprout well, which means they have every chance of overwintering well. If siderates were planted earlier, then October is the time when they can be dug up. Then they will have time to well overwinter and saturate the soil with organic matter.
• In areas with high acidity, you need to reduce this indicator, because not all plants can fruitfully grow and develop in such conditions. For these purposes, liming is carried out on the breasts, scattering lime or chalk.
• Flower growers continue to plant bulbs. At the first drop in air degrees, hyacinth tubers are to be planted in the ground.
• After the appearance of the first frost, the tubers are carefully uprooted, and s. They are stored in a cool place. After the negative temperature is set, hyacinths and lilies are covered with peat, moss, sawdust or pine spruce branches.

The last month of autumn requires the last effort before wintering. The southern regions have a mild climate, so most plants are not sheltered. But, this does not apply to all grape varieties, some should be insulated. The vine is removed from the trellis or supports, laid out on wooden pallets or in dug trenches in the soil. After that, wrap the vine with film or earth.

If the trees do not need insulation, they should be whitewashed with lime. It is necessary not only to protect against rodents, but also from bright spring sunlight. They can cause burns and cracks in the bark. Also, whitewashing plays the role of a kind of protection from exposure to the sun. On warm winter days, the rays tend to warm the bark, and in the evening the temperature drops, causing the tree shell to freeze. What can cause the death of seedlings.

In colder regions, fruit trees should be insulated with spruce branches or peat, and the trunk should be wrapped with burlap or other breathable material on top.

From above it is recommended to wrap a net-netting in a circle. It will not allow rodents to eat the bark in the winter cold. Do not use film or other non-woven material for wrapping. It does not allow air to circulate, which provokes the decay of the bark. As a result, various fungal diseases develop. In the garden during this period, you can plant any vegetable crops. Low temperatures will not allow seedlings to sprout, but they will go through a natural process of stratification. This will allow the sprouts to gain immunity and get sick less in the future period.

Flower work is coming to an end. Perennial plants are cut for the winter under the base. Roses are cut to such a level that they can be covered. Bulbs are covered with spruce branches, moss or sawdust.

All work is completed. Last days set aside for cleaning up all cases and complete shelter of all trees for wintering. Thus, the autumn months are no less eventful for farmers than spring or summer. The main thing is to prepare the garden and vegetable garden for the coming winter and the future fruitful period. If you do not follow the basic procedures for rich fruiting, you can not wait.

Winter is a difficult period for all plants of the Moscow region, and therefore autumn work in the garden is a mandatory and very important agrotechnical event. The complex of works is always selected individually for each site, depending on its organization, location, number of green spaces and their biological characteristics. The processing of trees in autumn has its own characteristics that must be known and taken into account in order to keep the garden in a satisfactory condition.

What work is done in the garden in September

The preparation of trees for wintering begins in September, during the period of ripening and harvesting of fruits of late varieties. The grass is mowed or weeded out on the trunk circles, plant residues are removed, fertilizers are applied. The last event is very important, as it is a good foundation for high yields for the next year. The amount of fertilizer applied is calculated according to the age of the tree.

Under each tree, manure or potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are applied, which will strengthen the root system, increase the frost resistance of the aerial part of the plant.

Fertilizer application rates:

• 2-4 year old tree - 15-25 kg of organic matter / 15-25 g of fertilizer for each year
• 5-8 year old tree - 30-50 kg of organics / 35-50g of fertilizer for each year
• 9-20 year old tree - 50-80 kg of organic matter / 70-100 g for each year.

In the middle or end of September (depending on the temperature regime), the trees are thoroughly watered. Watering is usually combined with fertilization. Along the contour of the crown, a ditch is dug as deep as the bayonet of a shovel. Fertilizers are evenly distributed over it and generously filled with water. After the moisture has been absorbed, the moat is buried.

Gardening in October

October is a very responsible month for gardeners. By October, fruit trees shed their leaves, and it is important to have time to carry out the necessary work before prolonged rains and mudslides.

Cleaning up leaves and debris

The first thing to do is to clean the branches of mummified fruits, remove foliage and carrion from tree trunks, which are an excellent refuge for wintering pests. Remove and burn. It is also necessary to clean the branches from the wintering nests of golden tail and hawthorn and also set them on fire. These and subsequent actions are the most important steps in treating the garden from pests in the fall.

If the garden is well-groomed, the codling moth is not damaged and there are no carrion, then the foliage, as an organic fertilizer and an excellent heater, can be left around the tree. It is only necessary to process the fallen leaves with a solution of urea (5-7%), and postpone the digging of the soil under the trees until spring.

Trunk and crown processing

Trunks should be carefully cleaned of exfoliated bark, in which cocoons of apple codling moths and other pests find shelter. Moreover, it is better to do it after the rain. Wet dead pieces of bark fall off more easily, which reduces the risk of damage to the trunk and improves the quality of processing.

Shallow damage to wood is cleaned of dirt and fungal deposits, treated with 5% copper sulphate, impregnated with a solution of garden carbolic acid (10%), smeared with garden pitch. Hollows - thoroughly cleaned, disinfected with copper sulphate (5%), dried and filled with "seals" of crushed stone / broken brick and a mixture of sand and cement in a ratio of 1: 3.

In October, crowns and tree trunks are sprayed with a 3-5% solution of ferrous sulfate (copper sulfate is best used in spring) to prevent fungal diseases, as well as to prevent the appearance of mosses and lichens.

Digging trunk circles

To reduce the population of larvae wintering in the soil (apple sawfly), they dig up the soil in tree trunks. This must be done carefully. With a highly developed rhizosphere, it is better to use not a shovel, but a pitchfork, since in this case damage to the root system is excluded and the earth can be made looser. When cultivating the row-spacing in autumn, gardeners in the Moscow region should take into account that agricultural technicians recommend simply turning over the earth layer and not breaking it, since the lumpy soil structure better retains seasonal moisture and contributes to the freezing of larvae and clutches located in the soil layers.

Near the trunk, the depth of digging should be only 5-6 cm, at the border of the crown projection - into the bayonet of a shovel / pitchfork (18-25 cm). If the peripheral root processes with a diameter of up to 1 cm are damaged, it’s not scary, they are easily restored. Larger skeletal roots should be protected from damage. Once every five years, on acidic soils, lime is added for digging (300-400 g per square meter).

Trunk whitewashing

To protect the bark of a tree from the penetration of insects and pathogens that have not yet fallen asleep, from rodents, from temperature extremes, etc., tree trunks and the lower part of the skeletal branches are covered with a thick protective solution.

A solution for whitewashing trees can be purchased at a garden supermarket or you can cook it yourself using slaked lime.

To prepare a protective solution for a bucket of water (10 l) is taken (three options):

• 1 kg of lime and cow dung, 200 g of copper sulfate
• 1 kilogram of clay, lime, cow dung, 250 g of copper sulfate
• 2 kg of lime, 200 g of copper sulfate, 100 casein glue.

Repellents (repellents) can be added to the solutions, which include creolin, naphthalene, ethyl alcohol, and rosin. This will save the trees from hares.

For whitewashing the trunks of young trees, a lower concentration of lime is used to avoid bark burns.

November - we warm and protect trees

After the end of leaf fall, the crowns of trees are subject to light sanitary pruning. Only dried, damaged branches are cut. More careful pruning is not recommended. First, the tree does not have enough time to recover from stress (and pruning is a serious stress). Secondly, a heavily cut crown is more susceptible to wind loads and retains less snow cover. Both that, and another threatens with decrease in immunoresistance and, as a result, freezing. After pruning, all cuts and wounds are scrupulously treated with garden pitch.

In November, measures are taken to protect young seedlings from rodents. The bark of trees on a dwarf rootstock is especially juicy and is a real delicacy for them. Therefore, the strapping is made dense, in such a way that mice cannot penetrate under it. A good method of fighting rodents is to lay out tubes on near-stem circles 20 centimeters long and 3 cm in diameter, into which poison is placed.

Hares also pose a danger to young trees in winter. To protect against them, the trunks are wrapped over the insulation metal mesh or plastic. Compositions with repellents (repellent substances), which are coated with trunks, have proven themselves well. These substances include creolin, naphthalene, ethyl alcohol, rosin.

The trunks of heat-loving and young trees are insulated with straw, burlap, spruce branches. Trunk circles are covered with branches, leaves from healthy trees, special covering material, a mixture of sawdust treated with nitrogen and peat, compost.

We accept orders for the processing of trees in the fall in Moscow and the Moscow region. We carry out both a complex of works, including picking, fertilizing, processing trunks, digging, spraying, warming, etc., as well as individual types of work to prepare plants for winter. Contact phone + 7 495 664-52-85

Features of Moscow Region autumn

In recent years, winters in Central Russia are very unpredictable, and instead of heavy snow in December, it can rain, and at the end of February, warming is often abruptly replaced by critically low temperatures. And in order to provide plants with a comfortable wintering, the processing of fruit trees in the fall should be carried out competently and with special care, taking into account climatic features region.

In the Moscow region, for example, according to recent years, winter comes according to the following schedule:

• The first frosts in the air - 20.09-20.10
• The first frosts on the soil - 10.09-18.09
• Birch leaf fall - 27.09-4.10
• First snow cover - 11.11-25.11
• Stable snow cover - 30.11-30.12

As you can see, the temperature spread is quite large. And certain skills, knowledge, and the ability to observe the weather are needed in order to quickly and efficiently carry out autumn work in the garden.

Winter time is a difficult period for trees.

Winds, frosts, heavy sleet, freezing rain - all this the apple tree must endure with the least loss.

In autumn, after the last fruits are harvested from the apple trees, the tree begins to prepare for winter.

The task of every gardener is to help him with this. If we hold a series of complex events in the fall, then in the spring the apple orchard will thank us. Only in a well-kept garden, apple trees get sick less and bear fruit every year.

How to care for an apple tree in autumn?

There is a whole range of activities included in the care of apple trees in the fall, which must be carried out after harvesting, but before the onset of frost. It includes:

• cleaning fallen leaves and digging the soil;
• fertilizer application;
• moisture charging irrigation;
• mulching of tree trunks ;
• removal of moss and lichens, cleaning of the bark;
• pruning branches;
• whitewashing of trunks;
• treatment for diseases and pests;
• warming apple trees.

Each stage of these works is important for the apple orchard. If tree care is carried out regularly, then some points can be skipped.

If the garden has fallen into disrepair, the trees are sick, and the apples are small and sick, then we urgently get to work. Autumn is the best time for this.

Cleaning up fallen leaves and digging the soil

fallen foliage protects tree roots from freezing in winter, retains moisture in the soil, the bottom layer rots and is an additional fertilizer. This is correct, but not for fruit trees.

ATTENTION: On the fallen leaves there are many tiny spores of fungal diseases. If the foliage is left under the trees, they will overwinter well there. When the warm and humid spring arrives, the spores will begin to multiply. The apple tree will hurt again, and we will have to spend additional measures to fight diseases.

Leaves are harvested after the end of leaf fall. Leaves are burned only if the tree was very sick in the current year. If the tree is healthy, or the disease was prevented at an early stage, then the collected leaves can be folded into a compost heap.

The maturation period of compost is 2-3 years. The temperature in the compost heap is high, around 50°C. Mushroom spores die by the time the compost matures. When laying down fallen leaves, it can be treated with fungicides.

Collection of leaves.

After collecting the leaves, you should dig the earth in the trunk circles. The depth should be no more than 15 cm. When digging deep, there is a risk of damaging the roots of the tree.
What is the need for digging:

• pest larvae hide in the soil. If the layers of the earth are turned over, then the pests will be on the surface and die at sub-zero temperatures;
• the seeds of some weeds lose their germination capacity when exposed to frost;

dig up the ground preferably when it is slightly damp. The roots of perennial weeds that come across when digging, it is advisable to choose.

ADVICE: Digging trunk circles can be combined with autumn fertilization .

Autumn top dressing

The opinion about when to fertilize apple trees diverge. Someone makes them immediately after harvest, in August, September. Others believe it is best done after the leaves have fallen. Both opinions are correct.

Choosing the time when to feed It should be noted that it will take about three weeks for the tree to assimilate fertilizers.

So that the apple tree has time to get useful material before freezing, you need to focus on the preliminary weather forecast.

The main autumn fertilizer is organic.

Rotted manure or compost is applied at the rate of 1-2 buckets per tree.

At the same time, 50 grams of superphosphate and 30 grams of potassium chloride are added per apple tree.

IMPORTANT: Nitrogen is not applied in autumn. The amount that is in organic fertilizer is enough in the autumn. Excess nitrogen can cause the growth of weak young shoots that freeze in winter.

Feeding is carried out simultaneously with digging the top layer of the earth. If fertilizers are applied at the beginning of autumn, then they are buried in the soil with a rake.

In dry weather, the near-stem circle is shed with water so that nutrients get to the roots faster.

Watering apple trees in autumn

Autumn watering is called moisture charging. To spend it or not depends on the weather. If it rains constantly in the fall, it is not necessary to water. If the rains are rare, drizzling, then the apple trees should be watered for the winter.

Watering apple trees in autumn.

Check the need for watering it can be done as follows: a hole is dug under a tree, 15–20 cm deep. If the earth at its bottom is wet, it does not crumble when compressed, it is not worth watering. In other cases, watering is required.

IMPORTANT: Trunks and branches saturated with water break less from the wind, endure the weight of snow, their bark is resistant to frost. A connection was also noticed - the more you water the apple tree in the fall, the more fruit ovaries will be in the spring.

A young tree will need 3 buckets of water, for an adult - about 6. The earth should be saturated by at least 0.5 meters. Apple trees on dwarf or semi-dwarf rootstocks require less moisture than tall trees.

Mulching

Mulching trunk circles keeps the soil moist longer, makes it breathable.

In addition, mulch is a long-term fertilizer. Over time, it rots, and additional nutrients enter the soil.

In winter, mulch protects the earth from the difference between night and day temperatures, serves as a warming material.

Peat, humus, sawdust, mowed dried grass are suitable for mulching. The layer should be from 10 to 15 cm.

If on site the soil is acidic, then it is better to mulch it with sawdust, chopped wood.

If a alkaline soil, then peat, humus, coniferous litter will do. Compost, straw, fallen leaves from ornamental trees are suitable for any type of soil.

Moss and lichen removal, bark cleaning

Mosses and lichens, which often settle on the trunks of apple trees in dense orchards or in wet weather, must be removed.

They damage the tree by closing the smallest holes in the bark through which breathing occurs. This causes the branches to dry out. With a strong defeat by lichens, the apple tree may die.

Useful video:

Watch the video on how to deal with moss on fruit trees:

How to save tree bark. Autumn treatment:

Remove moss and lichens after leaf fall. Well proven two ways:

• The tree trunk is treated with iron sulphate. To do this, 300 grams are diluted in 10 liters of water. They process trunks, branches and the ground under a tree. After 10 days, the lichens die off. They are cleaned with a hard brush. Spread a cloth under the apple tree so that the crumbling spores do not fall to the ground.
• Moss and lichen are first cleaned from the trunk, and then treated with copper sulphate. 500 grams of powder is diluted in a bucket of water. The earth in the trunk circle is also sprayed.

The video will tell you how to use iron sulfate:

Once every 3-4 years in autumn it is necessary to clean the old bark from the trunks even if there are no lichens on it.

ATTENTION: Pests hibernate under the old bark, where they lay their larvae. Disease pathogens can also hide under the bark and wait for favorable conditions to attack the tree.

Clean the bark with a scraper or a stiff brush.

The ground under the tree is covered with a cloth so that pieces of bark do not remain on the ground.

The crumbled bark particles are burned.

Pruning branches in autumn

In autumn, it is advisable to carry out only sanitary pruning of apple trees. Remove dead and diseased branches.

Cutting is carried out by slightly capturing healthy wood. Only in this way will the saw cut heal evenly, and the bark will not crack and bulge. Slices are cleaned and treated with garden pitch.

If the decision is made to pruning in autumn, then it is better to do this when the leaves have completely fallen off.

From the date of pruning to the onset of frost should take about two weeks.

ADVICE: When pruning, it is important to use only sharp tools. This will allow you to get an even cut that will heal quickly. .

Trunk whitewashing

Whitewashing of the trunks is carried out after the removal of mosses and lichens, after stripping the bark and pruning dry branches.
Whitewashing has several purposes:

• prevent cracking of trunks, which occurs during daytime and nighttime frosts;
• protects against sunburn;
• does not allow pests to hide under the bark for wintering;
• whitewashed apple trees are less likely to be gnawed by mice and hares.

For whitewashing, you need to choose a dry day. If it rains immediately after the procedure, it will wash away all the paint. It takes several hours to dry.

IMPORTANT: At temperatures below 3°

whitewashing apple trees

do not carry out.

Young trees are covered with paint up to the point where the first branch begins. Adult apple trees are whitened to the height of an outstretched hand. It is advisable to paint over the trunk and all skeletal branches.

Treatment for diseases and pests

Autumn pesticide treatment is needed only if there was a mass invasion of pests in the summer, or the tree is heavily infected with fungal diseases.
In this case, the processing is carried out after the apple tree completely sheds all foliage.

Pest control.

If the tree did not hurt this year, the bark was cleaned, treated for mosses and lichens, autumn whitewashing, then spraying from diseases and pests is not necessary.

Apple tree care in autumn, warming

Warming of roots and trunks necessary for young apple trees up to 7 - 8 years. It is especially important during snowless winters with a large difference in day and night temperatures.

If a layer of mulch is poured into the trunk circle under the apple tree, then it will protect the roots from frost.
For an apple tree on a dwarf or semi-dwarf rootstock, additional shelter will be required. They will serve as corn stalks, straw, sunflower. You can use non-woven covering material. In the spring it must be removed in a timely manner .

They wrap young trunks of apple trees not only for warming, but also for rodent protection.

To do this, you can use cardboard, several layers of thick paper, burlap, branches of coniferous trees.

Warming should end at a height of 1 - 1.2 meters from the ground. Remove it in the spring, when the snow has completely melted.

Caring for apple trees in August - September

In August - September in the apple orchard, it's time to take care of the preservation of the harvest. Strong supports are placed under heavy branches strewn with fruits. A branch broken from gravity is a disaster for any apple tree. Sometimes the fault is so deep that the apple tree cannot be saved.

The second task of the gardener is to collect carrion every day. Apples that crumble ahead of time are rarely healthy. If they are sick or damaged by pests, then they should be taken out of the area and buried.

Three weeks before the full harvest, it is necessary to water the trees at the rate of 4-5 buckets per tree.

The crop should be harvested on a dry day. From high branches, it is advisable to use a fruit collector to collect fruits. Don't shake the tree. Falling apples are damaged and are not stored for a long time.

Caring for an old apple tree in autumn

If you got an old, overgrown garden, in which apples grow small and damaged, you need to take measures to improve it.

Pruning to rejuvenate an old apple tree is carried out for 3 years. If you cut all the branches at once, the weakened tree will not withstand such a load and may die.

In the first year, in the fall, all dry, broken, diseased branches are cut. You can also remove several large branches that intersect with each other and thicken the crown. Such pruning in the first year is quite enough for the old tree to have enough strength to heal the cuts.
The next thing to do is clean out all the old bark. In old apple trees, it happens that large pieces of bark depart. Don't be afraid to remove them. They will not take root back, and there is no benefit from them.

IMPORTANT: If, after cleaning the bark, a large section of the trunk is exposed, it is covered with a thin layer of garden pitch.

An old apple tree requires special care.

In addition to these procedures, old apple trees are treated with pesticides from diseases and pests, the trunks are whitened. The soil in the trunk circles is cleaned of weeds, dug up and fertilized.
The remaining measures to rejuvenate old apple trees are carried out in spring and summer.

Caring for an apple tree after harvesting in the fall

After harvest, but before the leaves fall, it is important to know what to do with the apple tree in the fall. It is necessary to collect carrion from under the apple trees. If a sick apples left hanging on the branches, they are collected and buried in order to prevent infection of the entire tree.

With the invasion of pests, apple trees are sprayed with insecticides. Processing must be carried out twice, with a difference of 10 days. The earth in the trunk circle is also treated with the same solution.

After picking apples, it is necessary to carry out weeding and loosening the soil under the apple tree. If it has not rained for a long time, then watering is required.

These measures are enough to give the apple trees a rest from the harvest, until leaf fall, after which the trees require special care for apple trees in September.

Caring for apple trees in the Moscow region

Winters in the Moscow region have little snow, with sharp temperature fluctuations and frequent thaws with freezing rains.

In addition to the above measures to care for the garden, additional measures will be required:

• stable supports should be placed under the main skeletal branches. This will avoid breaking trees;
• special attention should be paid to seedlings and young trees . It is desirable to strengthen the insulation of trunks and near-stem circles;
• If possible, tree pruning should be postponed until spring.

ADVICE: In the Moscow region, autumn weather does not last long warm and sunny, frosts come early. With this in mind, autumn activities for the care of apple trees should be carried out in a short time.

Apple tree care in autumn, preparation for winter

In late autumn, in November, the task of the gardener is to sketch an additional layer of snow around the apple trees:

• snow serves as additional insulation for apple trees;
• in spring, a thick layer of snow will slowly melt. This will delay the flowering period, which is important in regions where there are often return frosts;
• the snow melting in the spring will water the apple trees, the melt water will deliver the remains of nutrients from the fertilizers applied in the fall to the roots.

To mice they didn’t make moves in a snowdrift, the snow near the apple trees should be trampled down and compacted.

During early snowfalls, knock snow flakes off branches. This will keep them from falling apart.

In the fall, it's time to take care of the condition of the backyard and garden. Creating comfortable wintering conditions for fruit trees is a top priority for gardeners. What does autumn garden maintenance include? In anticipation of the winter cold, after the leaves have completely fallen off, you can start sanitary pruning, thinning, lowering the crowns of perennial trees to 4-4.5 m. It is better to postpone detailed rejuvenating pruning until spring. Why? First, there are fears of the possibility of trees freezing. Secondly, places where perennial branches of large diameter are cut down can become a source of frost damage even when they are treated with garden pitch or oil paint.

In the autumn, a thorough inspection

fruit trees

Remove dry, damaged branches. Together with the removal of diseased, dry branches, they clean the trees of fruits dried on the branches, burn nests, egg-laying pests, cut out growths, remove leaf litter, root shoots, where many types of aphids have accumulated.

All this must be destroyed immediately. When sections are formed with a diameter of more than 2 cm, they are covered with garden pitch. The stems of young trees along the entire length are tied with a special non-woven material or other improvised means to protect against damage by mouse-like rodents with a deepening of the strapping material into the soil by 3-5 cm.

For example, I do this. I wrap young trees with narrow bandages cut from spunbond or lutrasil. And then I begin to dig in - the ends of the bandage are dug in with earth, as if deepened.

To prevent the appearance of cracks in the bark, frost crackers on the stems of fruit-bearing trees carry out their whitewashing, having previously cleaned the trunk.

On stone fruits, diseases can be treated in autumn with copper preparations, for example, Bordeaux liquid, and on pome breeds, with Preparation 30. Treatment with Preparation 30 can be postponed to spring. Pass it over the swelling kidneys.

In the vineyard, plants are also carefully inspected after harvest. Before sheltering for the winter, be sure to take care of keeping the plants in a healthy state. If the presence of the leaf form of phylloxera was noticed, it is necessary in early spring to treat the swollen buds with Preparation 30. Unripe shoots should be cut out in the fall. If shoots affected by anthracnose are noticed, from autumn or early spring, the bushes are treated with 3% Bordeaux liquid - this is one of the universal fungicides with the longest protective effect.

In late autumn, organic, organo-mineral or mineral phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied - superphosphate, potassium sulfate, others, 6-9 g of active ingredient per 1 m2. Fertilizers are applied into holes or wells 20-30 cm deep in the zone of near-stem circles of trees at a distance of 0.5-1 m outside the crown projection or for digging. On each square meter, one or two holes or wells are made.

For the orchard, long-acting fertilizers are the most important. The main ones are organic and organo-mineral fertilizers. Nutrients are released from them slowly as they are decomposed by microorganisms. The composition of organic fertilizers (manure, composts, etc.) includes the entire set of nutrients necessary for perennial fruit and berry plants, as well as hormones, vitamins, etc. Their application affects the growth and yield of trees for 3-5 years, while the yield increases to 25 and even 50 percent.

The composition of organic-mineral fertilizers includes both organic (peat, humates, etc.) and mineral fertilizers.

According to the Institute of Horticulture and Viticulture, in the fourth year after the introduction of organo-mineral fertilizers under a fruit-bearing apple tree (to a depth of 15-18 cm), the content of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium available for plants in the soil at a depth of up to 60 cm is several times higher than their content by unfertilized areas of the garden. This is due to the fact that fertilizers applied locally during the autumn digging of the garden by 2/3 bayonet spades of fertilizer are localized in the application zone, creating nutrition centers within the boundaries of the main distribution of the root system of perennial plants.

In addition, in areas of a garden or vegetable garden where organo-mineral fertilizers were used when digging the soil, you can also notice that the soil has become looser and crumbles well. This means an improvement in its agrophysical properties.

When using mineral fertilizers since autumn, it must be remembered that the introduction of fast-acting species can lead to the activation of growth processes in trees against the background of warm weather and sufficient moisture in the soil, which will cause serious damage in winter by low negative air temperatures.

For autumn garden soil dressing in late autumn (November), as a rule, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (nitrophoska, nitroammofoska) are used, and at an earlier date (October), ammonium forms of nitrogen fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate) can be applied. At the same time, the dose of nitrogen fertilizers is crushed: in the fall, 1/3-1/2 doses are applied; in early spring, 2-3 weeks before the flowering of trees, intrasoil top dressing with fast-acting nitrogen fertilizers is used (1/2-1/3 of the main dose); in the summer, the rest of the dose of nitrogen is added with irrigation water.

Autumn filling the soil with fertilizers contributes to the formation of the resistance of fruit plants to adverse environmental conditions, since the winter hardiness of trees is determined to a large extent by how many nutrients they accumulate in preparation for winter and to what extent these substances turn into protective ones. A prerequisite for a sufficient accumulation of reserve nutrients is the optimization of the nutritional regime of fruit plants, which allows for the dynamic growth of all organs, withstand spring temperature changes, bloom profusely in winter and form a full-fledged crop.

In connection with the upcoming winter cold, you need to give plenty of water to trees and shrubs - to carry out water-charging watering so that the plants overwinter more easily.

After the leaves fall, that is, when the fruit trees, shrubs "sleep", their active life is stopped, they begin the main tillage in the garden - digging. Digging the soil in the garden is necessary to maintain the optimal fine-clod structure by mixing - the top layer of soil (with the destroyed structure) moves down. At the same time, the lower layer moves to the surface.

Deep digging of the soil in autumn creates the conditions for the formation of a deep root system. This helps to increase its resistance to sharp drops in temperature in winter and significant increases in summer. The approximate depth of digging the soil in autumn, especially in a young garden, should be up to 30 cm - on the spade bayonet, and closer to the trunk - 10-15 cm.

When writing, the materials of the newspaper "Niva Kuban" - 2014 - No. 39 were used.

• 1 Features of caring for cherries in the fall and preparing for winter: general tips and tricks
• 2 Pruning cherries in autumn
• 3 Cherry shelter for the winter
• 4 Features of preparing cherries for winter in different areas
  • 4.1 In the suburbs
  • 4.2 In the Volga region
  • 4.3 In the Urals and Siberia
• 5 Common Mistakes caring for cherries in autumn and preparing for winter
• 6 Varieties of cherries. Early, late, winter-hardy, large-fruited varieties
  • 6.1 Yellow cherry. Varieties
  • 6.2 Cherries for the Moscow region. Varieties
  • 6.3 Leningrad cherry
  • 6.4 Revna
  • 6.5 Late sweet cherry varieties
  • 6.6 Planting cherries
  • 6.7 Site preparation
  • 6.8 Cherry care in the Moscow region
  • 6.9 Winterizing
  • 6.10 Pests and diseases
• 7 Fatezh (cherries) in the Moscow region
• 8 Planting cherries and caring for them
• 9 Planting cherries
  • 9.1 Planting cherries
  • 9.2 Cherry care
  • 9.3 Cherry varieties
    • 9.3.1 Lisa, Lviv
    • 9.3.2 Elena, Krasnoyarsk
    • 9.3.3 Svetlana, Russia
    • 9.3.4 Elena, Krasnoyarsk
    • 9.3.5 Elvira Petrova
    • 9.3.6 Alexander, Pavlovsky Posad
    • 9.3.7 Frans Khasanovich Khalilov, Bugulma
    • 9.3.8 Yulia Frolova (Isakova), Cheboksary
    • 9.3.9 Alexander, Chekhov
    • 9.3.10 Sergey Petrov
    • 9.3.11 Vladimir Slobodyanyuk
• When is the best time to plant: spring or autumn?
  • 10.1 Landing in Siberia
  • 10.2 Advantages and disadvantages of autumn planting
• 11 Choosing a landing site
  • 11.1 Winds and drafts are not allowed
  • 11.2 How to prevent freezing
• 12 Selection of planting material
• 13 Autumn planting rules
  • 13.1 Pruning after planting
• 14 Videos from detailed description cherry planting process at the end of August

Features of caring for cherries in the fall and preparing for winter: general tips and tricks

Many inexperienced gardeners are of the opinion that if the plant bears fruit, then it is not worth caring for it.

In autumn the first action should be loosening the earth near the trunk of the plant. The growth and active development of the tree, the formation of large fruits depends on the quality of the soil.

The soil is periodically loosened as needed. In order for the roots to receive a sufficient amount of nutrient moisture and oxygen, the earth is dug up 8-10 cm deep. If the site is saturated with heavy dense soil, then the digging depth increases to 10-15 cm.

Worth knowing! Fertilize the plant in the autumn should also be on time. If you feed too early in the fall, the nutrients will begin to decompose and be absorbed by the root system. Such a process will provoke the active growth of sweet cherry branches, which will postpone the period of departure for wintering. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out top dressing when the air temperature begins to tend to 0 C.

Be sure to water the cherry. If the weather conditions do not please with rain, the earth dries up, then the plant must be irrigated with moisture before switching to the winter period.

It is recommended to carefully water or add the right amount of nutrient moisture with buckets before frosts, most often in the amount of 10 buckets. This amount will saturate the near-stem soil by 1-15 meters. Then in winter the soil will not freeze, and with it the roots of the plant.

The last step before preparing for winter is fertilizing. The following scheme should be followed:

• 1-4 years - organic top dressing up to 20 kg, phosphorus and potassium - 100 gr;
• 5 years and older - organic fertilizers - up to 50 kg per plant, phosphorus - 400 gr., Potassium - 150 gr.

Improper feeding negatively affects the development and fruiting of cherries. In this case, the main thing is not to overdo it. In the autumn period, nitrogen fertilizing should be categorically abandoned. You can bring the plant to the abundant growth of branches, which will lead to the freezing of young growth.

Cherry pruning in autumn

Pruning of a young cherry seedling is carried out every year. Timely pruning allows you to get a quality crop. At the same time, fertility increases and immunity is strengthened. In addition, due to the removal of excess and diseased branches, the old seedling is rejuvenated and, as a result, its life is extended.

Many gardeners are wondering: "When is it better to cut cherries - in spring or autumn." Removal of part of the shoots is required to be carried out both in the spring months and in the autumn.

In the spring, at the beginning of March, sanitary cleaning of broken or frozen branches during the winter months is carried out. In April, crown formation is required, so all excess young shoots are cut off, as well as those that thicken, grow inward, interfering with skeletal branches.

What is the purpose of pruning cherries in the fall:

• Formation of strong skeletal branches.
• Improvement of fruit-bearing culture.
• Protection against diseases and harmful insects and their larvae.
• Thinning young growth, which does not allow the fruit to be saturated with sunlight.
• Keeping the crown from overgrowth.
• Uniform distribution of branches around the entire perimeter of the trunk.

Attention! It is necessary to carry out autumn pruning of cherries after all the foliage has fallen from the branches. Do not delay the procedure. It ends before the first days of October. This is necessary so that the resulting wounds have time to heal before the onset of the first frost.

Removal of unnecessary shoots is carried out either by shortening, or by thinning out extra branches. According to the latest method all improperly grown branches are removed. They should grow at an angle of 40-500 to the outer bud. All internal eyes are removed so as not to thicken the skeletal structure with unnecessary branches.

Shortening Method requires the removal of 1/3 of annual vines that have grown to a length of more than 60 cm. If the tree has not been cut for a long period of time and is overgrown, then it is recommended to apply not one of the two methods, but two at the same time.

Important point, it is necessary to cut off not to the detriment of the plant. Have time to complete all the procedures for removing and forming the crown before the cold snap sets in.

When cutting layers, use a pruner, saws, garden knife. All tools must be carefully sharpened. So they do less damage on the bark of the fruit crop.

For quick healing of wounds, garden var is used.. It allows not to lose nutritious juice and prevents pests from getting inside the tree.

Video: how to cut cherries in the fall

The first autumn pruning is carried out immediately after planting a young cutting. So, the height of the seedling is reduced to almost 1 meter in height. This will allow not to expend energy on additional branches, but to direct all the juices to high-quality rooting. Greater removal is not advisable, there is a possibility that the plant will not have time to take root and will die during the first frost.

The picture below shows the scheme for pruning cherries as the tree matures.

Until the sweet cherry is 5 years old, all its branches should not exceed 50 cm. And the shoots that do not affect the overall crown of the tree are cut to 30 cm. The best distance between the formed skeletal trees should not exceed 30 cm. The main thing is during removal branches can not be removed growth eyes. Otherwise, you can provoke the drying of the entire branch.

Pruning scheme for young cherries

If the plant is old, it is pruned to rejuvenate.. This procedure is carried out once every 5 years. To do this, remove all old and dried branches. You should also remove all old knots that are more than 6 years old. All sections must be covered with garden pitch.

Video: pruning old cherries in autumn or spring

Thus, autumn pruning is not only needed, it is also important for future fruiting and crown formation. In addition, old cherries tolerate pruning more easily in September than in March. But it is recommended to perform all procedures 3 weeks before the onset of cold weather, so that the sections have time to drag on.

Video: pruning cherries in the fall for beginners

Cherry shelter for the winter

Cherry in most cases does not like a strong decrease in air degrees. Older trees are less susceptible to frost. While young animals often suffer from frost. Therefore, young cherry seedlings in any regions are subject to shelter for the winter. This will protect the young from freezing part of the branches or from kinks under the weight of the fallen snow.

Important! Before you start to cover the cherry for the winter, the soil under it is loosened, well spilled with water and fertilized, cut off the old bark and eliminate lichen formations. Only after all the procedures can you start warming.

Preparing cherries for wintering includes the following items:

1. The earth around the trunk of the cherry is covered with natural material- peat, pine spruce branches or sawdust. The coverage area is the width of the crown of the tree - as far as the branches extend, the root system grows in breadth.
2. Rodent protection in progress- next to the seedling, pegs are driven in height flush with the plant. The crown is lightly tied with branches, giving the shape of a column.
3. Covering material- a covering material is wound around the driven stakes, so that a kind of cylinder is formed. The plant is completely wrapped from the top to the very base so that the animals cannot penetrate inside.
   From below, peat or earth is poured onto the base of the covering material, so that it cannot be lifted from the ground.
4. Fallen snow- after the first snowfall, snow is additionally applied to the base of the covering material with a snowdrift. It serves as additional insulation.

The main thing is that the wrapped tree should be packed in such a way that enough air remains inside. Then the plant is not afraid of any frost. Otherwise, with a strong contraction of the upper material, a dispute between foliage and bark can be provoked. The latter will lead to the occurrence of a fungal disease.

Features of preparing cherries for winter in different areas

Cherry is a heat-loving crop, planting it in different regions of Russia you need to know how to care for it and prepare it for winter.

In outskirts of Moscow

In the Moscow region, in order to prepare sweet cherries for wintering, you should not feed them excessively. Otherwise, she will begin to actively increase the number of young shoots, which will delay the moment of retirement. The latter aspect will provoke the freezing of most of the young.

The last nitrogen-containing top dressing is done in April - early May. After that, the plant is fertilized only with phosphorus.

The trunks are subject to whitewashing, and the basal trunk is closed with a plentiful layer of spruce branches. Shelter can not be used, but during heavy snowfall, cover the seedling with snow. If there is a slightly frozen bark in the spring, it can be carefully removed with a sharp garden knife and the wound covered with pitch.

In the Volga region

In the Volga region, sweet cherry is warmed with the help of a covering material so that rodents do not damage the lower part of the trunk. In spring, with the first rays of the sun, the shelter is removed so as not to provoke condensation on the walls of the material.

In the Urals and Siberia

Preparing cherries for winter and warming in the Urals and Siberia is carried out by the same method. These areas are similar to a strong drop in temperature. If you do not cover the tree, then only those places that were under a layer of snow will remain living areas.

This helps to press it to the ground for the winter period, and return it to its original state in the spring. In winter, the tilted tree is covered with a dense layer of straw or spruce branches, and in the spring the mound is removed. Only in this state the plant will be completely preserved.

Typical mistakes in caring for cherries in the fall and preparing for winter

If the culture is not properly cared for, then the plant will not produce high-quality fruits with large berries, and in the end it may die altogether.

Important! Autumn care for cherries is necessary primarily for farmers. If the procedure is not performed, then you can not only not wait for the fruits, but also completely lose the plant.

Before wintering, it is recommended to carry out loosening, complex fertilizer and proper pruning of cherries. The last moment should be performed separately for young seedlings and for aged trees. Each period requires its own approach to the event.

Varieties of cherries. Early, late, winter-hardy, large-fruited varieties

​Related Articles​

Poleznaia informaciia. -spasibo.Skajite pojaluista? Posadil chereshniu, po nevedeniiu, na prigorke i na severnoi storone. Poshel 4! god. Prochital Vshu informaciiu i reshil peresadit ponije i za dom. Xotelos-bi znat Vashe mnenie-poluchitsia? S uvajeniem.​

Cherries are yellow. Varieties

​In favorable conditions tall varieties of cherry trees reach 20 m in height and are capable of producing up to 50 kg of incomparably tasty berries per season. Sweet cherries begin to please us with a harvest in the 4–7th year after planting (depending on the variety), but only in the 10th year does it enter the phase of full fruiting. Proper planting of cherry seedlings

In addition, due to rapid growth, young trees need annual pruning. Remove all branches directed inside the crown, as well as shoots on the trunk and from the roots. Cuts must be very neat, they must be made with a well-honed tool. After pruning, be sure to treat the cut points with garden pitch. Inaccurate pruning can cause gum disease.​

Cherries for the Moscow region. Varieties

A nutrient solution is poured into the near-stem circle, which is cleared of weeds. Fertilizers are not poured to the very base, but distributed along the perimeter, since old roots are not able to absorb nutrients.

• There is a variety of sweet cherries called Fatezh. This low tree grows up to three meters and gives a bountiful harvest of fragrant and tasty berries. The culture begins to bear fruit from the fifth year of life. A tree older than ten years is capable of producing more than 40 kilograms of berries per season. This plant is also an excellent element of decor in the country. Fatezh cherries are more suitable for the capital of Russia and the Moscow region. Before you start planting cherries, it is recommended to find out at what depth the groundwater occurs. Stagnation of water in the soil is unacceptable for this tree. Choose a place on a hill, because cold air often accumulates in the lowlands, and cherries are heat-loving plants. And one more thing must be taken into account. This tree loves a lot of light, so try to choose a place where no buildings will block it.​

• Annually in the spring, young shoots should be pruned on this tree. Sometimes the branches have to be tied up in order to avoid breaking them.
• Not as often as we would like, you can find sweet cherries in Russian gardens. And although there are quite numerous varieties of sweet cherries, not all are suitable for growing in the Moscow region. In the figure, the root collar is in the ground, and in the recommendations for planting above the surface. Where is it right?

• The cherry tree of the Orlovskaya pink variety reaches a height of 4.5 m, has a wide spreading crown and bears fruit well from the 6th year after planting. BUT mature tree gives up to 35 kg of small, but unusually sweet berries. Pale pink fruits of the Orlovskaya Rose cherry have a dessert sweet and sour taste and are most valued in home-made preparations. There are more than three thousand varieties of sweet cherries all over the world, which are divided into two main types: bigarro and gini. Bigarro cherries have a rather dense texture, while guinis have softer fruits. ​

Leningrad cherry

Gum disease is a disease of predominantly woody plants, characterized by the release of a viscous, sticky liquid on trunks, branches, fruits, and sometimes leaves of trees; the same as gommosis.​

Every spring, Fatezh (cherries) are pruned until the buds swell. At the same time, broken and dried branches are removed, and the cuts are processed with a special garden pitch.

This crop does not tolerate weeds, so it is necessary to constantly clean the top layer of soil around the trunk. The near-stem space freed from weeds in the second year of cultivation should be at least one meter in diameter. Over the next three years, it is expanded to half a meter. At the same time, it is necessary to mulch the soil annually.

The growing season can last more than eight months. Based on this, seedlings are recommended to be planted in early spring. This will provide time for the cherries to take root and adapt before the onset of cold weather. But the place itself should be prepared in advance. Since autumn, pits have been dug, the bottom of which is loosened. Humus is poured there in the amount of two buckets and left to winter. At the very beginning of spring, a mixture of superphosphates and wood ash is added to the same pit and mixed with the humus already lying there. Now the pit is prepared for planting a tree.​

Revna

From the fruits of this variety, excellent juices, jams, compotes and even wine are obtained. The berries showed themselves well in freezing.

It has a wide pyramidal crown. This variety is able to survive at a temperature of minus thirty-two degrees. It is practically not subject to fungal ailments. The fruits ripen early, already in mid-June. The bone does not separate well from the pulp.

Late cherry varieties

Although we must pay tribute to the breeders: in recent times they did a good job and brought out many different varieties for the middle lane. In this article you will find a description of the varieties of sweet cherries, as well as some features of the care and planting of this plant. And, of course, the possible ailments of the plant and ways to deal with them.

• Thank you for the article. Tell us, we have moved to a new place and would like to transport cherries for 6-7 years. Is this possible and how to do it? Before buying seedlings, check with the seller whether the varieties of cherries you have chosen are suitable for growing in your region. It is better to buy 2-3-year-old seedlings - they adapt faster in a new place. ​
• ​I present to you three popular varieties of cherries, which belong to the bigarro type, the most common in Russia. - conductor; 2 - skeletal branches; 3 - stem; 4 - earth taken out from above; 5 - earth taken out from below and mixed with soil mixture; 6 - skeletal roots; 7 - fibrous roots; 8 - root collar

Planting cherries

When the tree begins to bear fruit, at a height of 3-3.5 m, cut the leader into a side branch. Pruning the leader to a side branch is the removal of a vertically growing shoot at the branching point with a branch growing more gently (angle more than 45 degrees).

Site preparation

When planting cherries is very important right choice places. The slopes of the southern directions and other bright places on the site, protected from the northern winds, are preferred. Swampy places, lowlands with stagnant cold air are not suitable for planting sweet cherries.

Cherry care in the Moscow region

Fatezh is a sweet cherry that does not require abundant watering. Moisturize it well enough three to four times a season. Before watering, loosen the near-stem circle and fertilize the soil. Abundant spraying of sweet cherries with honey solution during the flowering period will create conditions for effective pollination. Thanks to this, the yield will rise.

Any sweet cherry for the Moscow region, the varieties of which were considered, requires a caring attitude. Cherry should be properly looked after, and then it will delight you with a plentiful and high-quality harvest. It is important to water the tree regularly. The first watering is done in early spring before flowering. As soon as the tree is covered with flowers, it should not be watered, this can lead to the fact that the entire ovary will fall off. In summer, cherries are watered as the soil dries. The last watering is done during autumn digging.

Preparing for winter

The Revna cherry variety has round, medium-sized burgundy fruits. The pulp is quite dense and has a dark red hue. The bone is separated from the pulp without difficulty.

Pests and ailments

Variety Fatezh.

According to the color of the fruit, cherries are divided into black, pink, orange and yellow. Consider those representatives of the plant that belong to the yellow cherry group. Varieties will be presented in the amount of two.​

I planted a seedling of Revna cherry this year in April. But now it is July, and it does not grow and does not give branches, only a few leaves on the trunk. I fed him and watered him - but a little sense. Tell me what to do with it? It doesn't seem to die, but it doesn't grow either. Planted in a flower bed, like all other trees in the garden. Nearby Ovstuzhenka 3 years old feels good and even gave a few fruits this year. Advise, good people: what to do with it ???

A cherry tree can live in one place for up to a hundred years (with good care, of course). So - plant boldly. Delicious and unusually healing berry will delight both your children and grandchildren))​

Cherry variety Fatezh

Fatezh (cherry) in the Moscow region

A third of the pits are covered with soil mixture: earth - 2 buckets, ammonium sulfate - 2 kg, superphosphate - 3 kg, wood ash - 1 liter, potassium fertilizer - 1 kg, undiluted manure - 35 kg (manure can be replaced with humus). If the soil in your dacha is clayey, then pour a couple of buckets of sand into the bottom of the pit, if sandy - a couple of buckets of clay. And only then pour the soil mixture into the hole.

What is duke and how to grow it

Cherries are planted in a planting hole with dimensions of at least 70 x 70 x 60 cm. Trees are planted at a distance of 3-5 m. Otherwise, the spreading crown will eventually obscure other plants.

Feed the plant in September with phosphate fertilizers. Such feeding will help to survive frosts and increase the amount of sugar in the berries. Every three years, it is necessary to dig up the earth around the trunk with the addition of organic fertilizers. As such, you can use chicken manure or manure in a rotted or fermented state. They are not allowed to be used fresh.

The fruits are very juicy and sweet. This cherry begins to bear fruit after five years of its life. Blossoms in the second half of May, and berries should be expected in early July. This tree can pollinate itself. It grows at high speed, the fruits are formed on the branches of the bouquet type. The leaves are oval in shape and have a short petiole. Ripening fruits are worthy of the highest marks for quality, not only appearance but also taste. They tolerate long transportation well.

Its feature is a spherical crown. The branches that form this crown are drooping. It is resistant not only to frost, but also to fungal diseases. Requires neighborhood with other varieties, as it is self-fertile. The stone is small and easily separated from the pulp.

Drogan yellow cherry belongs to the bigarro group. It is a mid-season plant, has good resistance to cold and frost, can adapt well even in the northern regions. The fruits of this tree are shaped like a heart.

It seems you planted it too deeply, by the very vaccination. And it is necessary that the root collar (where the trunk ends and the root system begins) is flush with the surface of the earth. With a deep planting, the plants look exactly like this, and after 3-5 years they die. The trunk is not adapted to "live" in the ground. Carefully dig around the trunk with a scoop, with your hands, reach the very top root. Discovered? Here it should be covered with earth by only 1-3 cm.

And in English language there is no separation between cherries and cherries) For just one word cherry)​

Before planting, fix a support post for the seedling at the bottom of the pit. In the center of the pit, make a mound and place a seedling on it, carefully straightening its roots. Then attach the seedling to the support and gradually add the earth, lightly tamping it down. The root neck of the seedling should rise above the soil by about 3-5 cm. At the end of planting, the cherry seedlings can only be watered abundantly and mulched the earth (you can use humus, fallen leaves or peat).

Cherry planting and care

What to plant in the shade under the trees

For a planting pit, you need to mix the arable layer of the earth with three buckets of rotted manure or compost and a liter can of wood ash (mineral fertilizers can also be used). If the soil is clayey, add a bucket of river sand, if it is light sandy, pour two buckets of clay into the bottom of the pit, and then a fertile mixture. It does not hurt to add 2-3 buckets of limestone rubble to the pit. This will reduce the acidity of the soil and provide air access to the roots.​

Fatezh (cherry) loves sunny places, as well as fertile soil. The plant does not tolerate clay and deep sandy soil, does not like windy places. It is better to plant cherries at least two or three different varieties that have the same flowering time. This is due to the fact that the plant is cross-pollinated. Great option Fatezh cherries will be planted next to cherries, as cherry pollen will perfectly pollinate cherry flowers.

In addition to digging the soil and fertilizing in the fall, care should be taken to protect the tree trunk from rodents for the winter period. To do this, it is tied with burlap, and on top of a fir tree. This method also provides additional frost protection.​

How nice, after all the cherries have already been eaten, to go out into the garden and find them there again. And this is quite real if you plant cherries on your site, which belong to late varieties. Consider some representatives. Rechitsa

The pulp has a yellow tint. The features of this variety include the large height of the tree and the spreading crown. The peel of the fruit is very thin, which, of course, causes certain difficulties during transportation or freezing. The stone is inseparable from the fruit pulp. The yield is quite high, while the fruits themselves do not crumble. This variety requires the presence of other cherries in the garden, since it is not self-pollinating.

When planting, cherries need to be cut very strongly - literally by a third or even half. I made a fatal mistake with the first seedling - I did not cut it. He waved a long whip without lateral branching. The following spring, I corrected the mistake - I cut it in half ... lateral branches and a competitor of the leader appeared. The competitor was removed, the lowest side branches were removed, the rest, which grew more than 40-50 cm, were cut off. Now the tree looks good. If I planted a cherry seedling again, I would not have made the past mistakes. Sweet cherries require very strong pruning immediately upon planting.

That is, you send your husband to the store like this and say: “Darling, buy a pound of cherry”, he brings sour cherries, and you are indignant that you wanted sweet cherry))

Cherry variety "Fatezh" is a low tree (up to 3 m), which gives a bountiful harvest of tasty and fragrant berries. Fruiting begins at 5 years of age. An adult tree (from 10 years old) is capable of bearing more than 40 kg of fruit per season, and the graceful drooping crown "Fatezh" perfectly decorates the dacha. The Fatezh cherry variety is more suitable for Moscow and the Moscow region. ​

Sweet cherry does not tolerate weeds, so always carefully clear the ground around its trunk from them. In the second year after planting, the diameter of the near-stem circle, freed from weeds, must be at least 1 m. During the following three years it is expanded by 30-50 cm, while not forgetting to mulch the soil annually.

Did you know that Chekhov's famous play is known abroad as "The Cherry Orchard"? And all because the words: "cherry" and "cherry" have an identical translation in many European languages. For example, in English they are translated as - cherry, in French - cerise. And there is no contradiction here, because cherries and cherries are very closely related - both of these cultures belong to the Rosaceae family.

Having filled the hole by 2/3, a seedling is installed in it, carefully pouring fertile soil to the roots and compacting it. The support to which it is tied should be located on the south side - this will allow the tree to avoid sunburn. After planting, the cherries are watered, and the soil is sprinkled with peat, compost or mowed grass.

supersadovnik.ru

We plant cherries

Saplings in the southern regions are planted in autumn. Sweet cherries in the Moscow region and more northern regions are planted in the spring.

Birds are the biggest pest to berries. They are able to destroy half of the entire crop in less than an hour. The best escape from this scourge is to use nets to shelter the crown.

Cherry planting

Cherry Bryanochka

It has a short stature and a crown shaped like a pyramid. Resistant to disease and frost. It has sweet dark red fruits and a well-separated stone.

Homestead yellow cherry is considered early ripe, loves black soil. This is an excellent cherry for the Moscow region. Varieties of this type are self-pollinated. The fruits appear only in the sixth year, but the yields are quite high. This variety sings early, but, despite all this, it is not afraid of frost at all. A lot of trouble deliver constantly growing shoots. The crown is very lush. The latter fact is especially important for those who do not have too large a garden plot.

Completely agree with the comment. The main mistake is that the grafting site was mistaken for the root collar. After transplantation, with the placement of the root neck (transition from the trunk to the root) at ground level, it is necessary to cut the trunk, but not more than 1/3.​

Yes, I myself was very surprised when I found out about this)) Iput cherry variety

Three waterings per season are enough for cherries. Before watering, the trunk circle is loosened, fertilized, and only then watered abundantly. And if during the flowering period the sweet cherry is regularly sprayed with a honey solution, then an unusually effective pollination can be achieved, because honey will attract bees. And the better the pollination, the higher the yield. Here's a little trick!​

Of course, close kinship and linguistic subtleties cannot magically turn sour cherries into sweet cherries. But now it has become possible to grow heat-loving cherry trees in the gardens of the central strip of Russia. Russian selectors did a good job and brought out several winter-hardy varieties of sweet cherries that bear fruit well even in harsh climates. So choose the one that suits you from the list below and - forward to landing!​

Cherry care

It must be remembered that cherries are self-sterile. For normal pollination, it is necessary to plant cherry trees nearby. different varieties. The second option is to try to graft several different cuttings onto a winter-hardy variety. Among the best pollinators, varieties stand out

When preparing the soil for planting trees, you need to know that the horizontal roots of an adult plant are located at a depth of 30-80 centimeters, while the vertical ones deepen to a distance of more than two meters. Therefore, before planting trees, it is necessary, in addition to pits, to carry out plantation plowing at the site of planting the garden.​

Among insects on trunks and leaves, you can meet aphids. In this case, the cherries should be treated with insecticides.

It has large dark red fruits that ripen no earlier than mid-July. The yield of the variety is very high, and the fruits look just wonderful and are very tasty. It is resistant to frost and various fungal diseases. A big disadvantage of this variety can be considered the inability to self-pollinate.

The considered varieties of sweet cherries, of course, are far from all from the list of northern options. But all of them have already been tested by experienced gardeners.

Cherry varieties

What varieties are best for the middle lane? The answer is unequivocal - those that are most resistant to frost. Although this does not mean at all that the varieties of sweet cherries suitable for our area are inferior in taste to the southern options. Let's consider some of them. All of them are the best varieties of cherries for the Moscow region.​

Try to trim. After pruning, any fruit tree begins to bloom and bear fruit.

I would not really trust the sellers of seedlings, not all of them are honest and respectable. Since he brought them out for sale, he will assure that this is the most suitable variety for this region. Last year I bought seedlings of gazania, so when I was with the seller they were interested in whether it was an annual or perennial plant. He categorically stated that it was one-year-old. How not ashamed to lie to people like that!

​ ​ Cherries are watered rarely, but plentifully - three times per season. In the meantime, young trees are growing up, temporary beds can be arranged between them. Next to the cherry tree, it is advisable to plant mustard with phacelia - excellent honey plants that are very attractive to bees.

Cherry trees love sunny places and well-fertile soils, do not tolerate clay soil, deep sandstones, and really do not like windy places. Sweet cherry is a cross-pollinated plant, so plant two or three different varieties of it (at least) with the same flowering time in the country. She will benefit from the neighborhood with cherries, because cherry pollen perfectly pollinates cherry flowers. ​

Revna, Bryansk Pink, Iput, Raditsa, Tyutchevka. The depth of the pits for seedlings should be at least 80 centimeters, and the width should be 1 m. Trees are planted at a distance of about five meters from each other. You should not save on space, because with a small planting distance, the crowns of adult trees will shade and crush other plants.

Of the fungal diseases, this plant is most often affected by two. One of them is moniliosis. As a result of this disease, the leaves fall too early, the flowers and twigs dry up, and the berries shrivel.

Michurinskaya late The Leningradskaya sweet cherry variety is distinguished by large fruits of almost black color. They are shaped like a heart. The taste of the berries is sweet, but there is a slightly perceptible bitterness. Harvest should be expected in mid-July. The berries ripen unevenly, due to which they remain on the tree until mid-September. The pulp is very juicy.

Cherry Bryansk pink

if a hole under a tree is at least 80x80x80 cm, then it will survive; if less, then it is problematic

And you try to buy in nurseries, there tags are attached to all seedlings. Less likely to make mistakes

Fox, Lviv

Cherry variety "Iput" is a medium-sized tree - 4-5 m in height, with a pyramidal lush crown. It begins to bear fruit at the age of 4-5, and an adult tree, under favorable conditions, is able to give the maximum yield for sweet cherries - 50 kg from each tree. Large, almost black berries "Iput", filled with juicy tasty pulp, grow in small "bouquets", so it is very convenient to collect them. The Iput cherry variety is suitable for growing in the gardens of the central-eastern strip of Russia. ​

Elena, Krasnoyarsk

Sowing various plants in the aisles is not only useful for young trees, but also protects them from the winter cold. To feed cherry trees, slurry (1:8), diluted complex fertilizer for fruit trees (100 g per bucket of water) and ash water infusion (1:10) are used. Moreover, the near-stem circle, cleared of weeds, is watered with a nutrient solution. But fertilizers are not applied under the very trunk, since the near-stem roots of the sweet cherry are practically incapable of absorbing useful substances.

Svetlana, Russia

In the northern regions, cherry seedlings are planted in the spring, in the southern regions - in the fall. When preparing the soil, it should be borne in mind that the horizontal rhizomes of an adult plant lie at a level of 30-80 cm from the soil surface, and the vertical ones are buried by more than 2 m. Therefore, it is advisable not only to dig planting holes, but to do plantation plowing where you plan to plant cherry garden

Elena, Krasnoyarsk

Even during the flowering period, you can try to spray the sweet cherry with a honey solution in the morning (1 tablespoon per liter of water). This will attract bees and improve pollination. If frosts are expected during the flowering period, try to spray the crown with a solution of an ovary formation stimulator or at least plain water the day before - this will increase the stability of the flowers.

Elvira Petrova

Sowing other different crops between rows is desirable for sweet cherries, because in winter they will protect the southerner from the cold.

Alexander, Pavlovsky Posad

The second most common fungal disease is coccomycosis. It spreads mostly to the leaves, which are covered with red spots, gradually increasing and merging into one. If a tree is damaged, then fungicidal preparations will come to the rescue. In this case, all diseased and affected branches and leaves should be destroyed.

Frans Khasanovich Khalilov, Bugulma

It has fruits of medium size, but very beautiful in shape. Their color is dark red, the flesh is juicy, sweet. The fruits contain a large number of vitamin C. The stone separates from the pulp very well. Harvest ripening is expected towards the end of July. The yield of the variety is not only high, but also regular. But sweet cherry begins to bear fruit only in the sixth year of its life. Berries are well suited for almost any preservation. It does not pollinate on its own, it is resistant to frost and drought.

Julia Frolova (Isakova), Cheboksary

Trees should be classified as medium-sized. Their crown is dense and quite spreading. The first harvest can be expected in the third year. There are usually a lot of berries on a tree. Representatives of this variety are resistant to frost and are not afraid of drought. As well as the level of resistance to various diseases considered high enough.​

Alexander, Chekhov

is a fairly tall tree that requires little to no pruning. The branches of this plant, as well as flower buds, are able to withstand cold and frost. Requires other cherries in the garden for pollination to occur. The fruits are pink and very sweet.

Sergey Petrov

Thank you very much for the article. Useful information for me, as for a young gardener.

Vladimir Slobodyanyuk

There is a special definition for cherries in English - sour cherry (sour cherries)

Cherry variety Orlovskaya pink

In early spring, 60-80 g of carbamide (urea) must be added under each tree. Every spring, before the buds swell, the cherries should be pruned and dried and broken branches removed, covering the cuts with garden pitch (a special remedy for treating tree wounds). The trunks of cherry trees must be whitewashed in early spring and late autumn to avoid cracking the bark.

The size of the landing pit should be at least 80 cm deep and about 1 m wide. Seedlings should be planted at a distance of 3-5 m from each other. It is better not to be stingy with a place and provide space for the trees, otherwise the spreading crown of an adult tree will obscure and suppress other plants.

Cherries need to be fed. Young trees - 2 times per season (in May and June), adults older than three years - 3-4 times. Cherries are fed with slurry (1:6) with the addition of a tablespoon of complex fertilizer to a bucket of water. At the last top dressing, after harvesting, you should not use nitrogen fertilizers. Ash is well suited for top dressing. In the spring you need to add urea.

Fatezh (cherry) is fed with slurry (1/8), a complex diluted fertilizer intended for fruit and berry crops (one hundred grams per bucket of water), as well as infusion of ash on water (1/10).

This article has reviewed the best varieties sweet cherry for growing in central Russia. By following the rules regarding planting and caring for the plant, you will be able to achieve a high-quality and abundant harvest of these sweet and fragrant berries. Proper preparation for the winter period, as well as pest control and disease prevention, will ensure that your garden has healthy representatives of sweet cherries on long years. And by placing in your garden varieties that ripen in different time, you will provide yourself with a delicious dessert for the entire summer period and jam preparations for the whole year.​

Probably, there is no such person who would be indifferent to juicy and sweet cherries. Every self-respecting gardener considers it a matter of honor to plant at least one cherry tree on his site. But when is it better to plant it - in autumn or spring? Let's consider this question in more detail.

When is the best time to plant: spring or autumn?

Planting cherries in cold regions is done in the spring, when the buds swell.

Sweet cherry is a rather heat-loving horticultural crop. For this reason, experts advise planting a tree in the spring, but only if the cherry will grow in regions with a cold climate.

For the south of Russia and the Central region is perfectly acceptable autumn planting .

Deciding to plant a fruit tree in the fall, it is very important to meet the deadlines for this procedure. So, this must be done before the top layer of soil has time to freeze.

The optimal time for planting cherries is the period from mid-September to the end of October.

This period of time is the most suitable, since the trees in the dormant stage will direct all their vitality to adapting to a new place, and not to laying buds.

If the seedling was purchased too late and they did not have time to plant it in a permanent place until the end of October, then it is dug in the ground for wintering, and planted already with the advent of spring.

Seedlings are dug in a hole 40–50 cm deep.

Landing in Siberia

Gardeners should remember that for Siberia and other regions Russian Federation with a harsh climate suitable only for spring planting of cherries which is held in late April - early May.

Otherwise, the garden culture will not survive the cold winter and, without having time to gain strength, it will freeze.

Advantages and disadvantages of autumn planting

Autumn planting of cherries can be done until frost.

Planting in the fall is good for many reasons. Let's consider some of them:

• Gardeners who doubt the choice have the opportunity to examine mature trees and taste the popular varieties of sweet cherries.
• In autumn, seedlings are much cheaper than in spring.
• As is known, rainy weather sets in in autumn, and gardeners do not need to constantly moisten the soil near the tree.
• During autumn and winter, seedlings have time to strengthen and grow new roots, so that they will begin to grow and develop faster than trees planted in spring.
• Autumn planting is especially important in the southern regions, because the risk of sudden hot weather is completely eliminated.

The disadvantages of autumn planting include the risk of frostbite of seedlings. Young trees that have not yet had time to adapt to a new place may not survive severe winter frosts, snowfalls or gusty winds.

Sometimes, after winter, young cherries have frozen or broken branches. Rodents, which feed on the tender near-stem bark of seedlings, are also of great danger.

Selecting a landing site

Cherries love the sun.

In order for the cherry to take root safely in the garden, it is very important to choose the right place for it.

The best option would be a small hill, well-lit by the sun's rays, without the slightest hint of shading.

Grafted seedlings are especially in dire need of substances that are formed in the leaves during photosynthesis, which requires the sun. Ideally, the rays should illuminate the tree all day, in extreme cases - the entire first half of the day.

If the soil on the site is infertile, compost or humus should be prepared.

Cherry does not make excessive demands on the composition of the soil, but the priority is fertile, and at the same time light earth. The selected site for planting a seedling should not be located above groundwater or be in a swampy area. Excessively wet soils can cause root rot. For this reason, it is not recommended to plant sweet cherries in ravines and lowlands.

Winds and drafts are unacceptable

But also the cherry must be securely sheltered from strong winds and drafts. This will protect the horticultural crop from freezing in winter, as well as from drying and weathering of pollen during the flowering period.

A high deaf fence will protect the cherry from the cold north wind.

Strong gusts of wind can cause great damage to cherries. Young and not yet fully grown trees can be severely deformed, especially if the wind blows relentlessly from one side. In addition, due to the wind, snow does not accumulate near the trunk circle, as a result of which the plant is left without natural protection from frost.

If it is not possible to plant a young tree in a place protected from the wind, you should create barriers on your own. Of course, they will let the wind through, but it will no longer be of such strength and direction.

How to prevent freezing

Early flowering in spring is a great danger, since there is a high risk of freezing of blooming flowers due to sudden frosts.

To avoid this, the trunk circle must be covered with a thick layer of snow, and sprinkled with straw or sawdust on top. Thanks to this measure, flowering can be postponed for a week and thereby secure the plant.

Selection of planting material

It is best to purchase seedlings from local nurseries with a proven track record.

Half the key to success in autumn planting is well-chosen planting material. It is recommended to purchase cherries only from reliable suppliers. It can be a nursery with a good reputation, or an amateur gardener who has been selling quality, proven products for several years.

When choosing a seedling, you should pay attention to the following nuances:

• root system- fibrous, branched, consisting of several strong and many thin roots. It should look healthy: no overdried or rotting areas.
• In order for the autumn planting to be successful, on a seedling there should be no leaves.
• Cherry is a self-fertile tree, therefore, another variety should grow on the site, or later other varieties of sweet cherries are grafted onto a strengthened seedling.

  Seedlings are divided into three categories according to the development of the root system.

Gardeners of the Moscow region who decide to plant cherries in the fall, on the one hand, risk a tree if frost suddenly hits, on the other hand, they get a chance to harden a young plant and adapt it to difficult weather conditions.

Autumn planting rules

Since the sweet cherry grows as a rather tall tree, it should be provided with free space within a radius of at least 4–5 m.

Autumn planting of horticultural crops is carried out in stages:

• Planting hole preparation. A month before planting cherries, it is necessary to dig a hole approximately 60 cm and width 80 cm.

  When planting in the fall, a pit for a seedling is prepared in advance.

• Nutrient layer. In order for a young tree to have the opportunity, at least for the first time, to freely receive all the necessary substances, a layer of humus and earth should be covered at the bottom of the hole. However, do not get carried away - an overabundance of fertilizers will negatively affect the development of the seedling.

  Cherry planting plan.

• Root preparation. 7-8 hours before planting, the cherry roots should be soaked in a bucket of water at room temperature, and then gently spread.
• Planting a seedling. The tree is installed in a prepared hole in such a way that its roots rise several centimeters above the ground. When the ground sags naturally, they will take their natural position.

  The grafting site must be above the ground.

• Well preparation. For the convenience of watering around the seedling, you should dig a small hole.

After carrying out all the manipulations, young cherries are abundantly watered and mulched using sawdust, peat or humus. This will provide long-term moisture to the plant.

Pruning after planting

Cherry pruning should be postponed until spring, so as not to weaken an already weak tree.

When planting in autumn, the first pruning is done in the following spring.

In order for the autumn planting to be successful, care must be taken to protect the seedling from frost and strong winds.

Video detailing the process of planting cherries at the end of August

Cherry is a southern crop, but there are varieties that can be grown in the Moscow region. This article is all about proper planting, proper care, methods of breeding varietal sweet cherries when grown in the Moscow region. Photos of zoned crop varieties in the photo gallery.

Varieties and varieties of sweet cherries for cultivation in the central regions of Russia

Sweet cherry and cherry are close relatives, but the cherry tree is distinguished by its tall growth, sweeter berries, and traditional cultivation in the southern regions. Breeders in the central regions of Russia have bred a number of varieties of sweet cherries adapted to the harsh conditions of Russian winters, as a result, varieties were recommended for the gardens of the Moscow region:

• "Iput"- a delicious sweet cherry with a fruit weight of up to 9 g, dark ruby ​​​​color, with juicy and sweet pulp. The cherry tree is medium in height, with a pyramidal crown. The variety is resistant to winter frosts and characteristic infections of sweet cherries. The purpose is universal.
• "Orlovskaya amber" – large fruits cherries have an excellent taste and are colored yellow-pink, fragrant, juicy. The fruits do not differ in large size - the average weight of one berry reaches 5.5 g.

Oryol amber

• "Raditsa"- a variety of sweet cherries with a high yield. Ruby-colored fruits with a pronounced gourmet taste ripen by the beginning of summer. The purpose is universal.
• "Motherland"- a variety with high resistance to diseases, the fruits ripen early. The average fruit weight reaches 5 g. During the ripening of the sweet cherry, it is not allowed to water the trees, otherwise the ripened fruits will crack.
• "Ovstuzhenka"- large round fruits of this variety have a dark ruby ​​color, sweet cherries ripen in early June. Winter hardiness, productivity and disease resistance are high.

Variety Ovstuzhenka

• "Victory"- a variety of sweet cherries of medium ripening, red dense berries ripen en masse by the beginning of June. Yield is high.
• "Fatezh"- winter-hardy and high-yielding variety with good resistance to diseases. The fruits are pink, medium-sized.
• "Bryansk pink"- the variety belongs to the late ones. Fruiting occurs at 5 years. Berries of medium size with dense yellow-pink flesh, sweet taste.
• "Revna"- a variety of universal purpose with black fruits. The pulp is dense, juicy, with a delicious taste. The variety is resistant to diseases and easily tolerates the harsh winters of the Moscow region.

Varieties of Revna

• "Tyutchevka"- a great late variety with large, red fruits, which is resistant to classic diseases of the culture.

Advice! Among sweet cherries there are self-fertile and self-fertile varieties. To ensure a high yield, it is worth planting trees of both groups when forming a garden.

Proper planting of sweet cherries in the central regions of Russia, including the Moscow region

Under the cherry orchard, you should choose places protected from the wind with good lighting. Trees do not tolerate winter cold, so it is necessary to choose zoned varieties with good winter hardiness.
In ventilated gardens, it is useful to arrange protective screens painted in white - this is the easiest way to provide plants with more comfortable conditions.

The soil for planting cherries should have a slightly acidic reaction and contain a lot of humus. The structure of the soil should not be dense, caked. It is important to protect the root system from excessive moisture, for which, when preparing planting pits, reliable drainage from a layer of coarse sand or gravel should be provided.

Preparing a hole for planting cherries

It is allowed to plant cherry seedlings in spring and autumn. Preparing the soil for planting comes down to deep plowing of the site and digging individual planting pits.

Advice! When planting sweet cherries, it should be remembered that the tree has deep taproots and an extensive system of lateral roots.

The dimensions of the pits are 0.8 x 0.8 x 1.0; distance between plants from 3 to 5 meters. The pits are covered with a specially prepared soil mixture, which includes: nutrient soil, superphosphate, ammonium sulfate, ash, potash fertilizers, organic matter. For drainage, one or two buckets of sand or gravel are added to the bottom of the pit.

Scheme proper fit cherries

The stem of the seedling is placed on a mound of earth in a hole, carefully straightening all the roots. You can immediately put a peg in the center of the pit to support the weak stem of the seedling.

Important! You can not fall asleep the root neck of seedlings, they should protrude 3-5 cm above the ground.
Planted young cherries should be watered abundantly.

How to care for cherries in the suburbs

In the garden, under each cherry tree, there should be a trunk circle with a diameter of at least a meter, in which it is important to periodically loosen the earth and free it from weeds.

Mature trees are watered at least 3 times per season, and to preserve moisture, it is useful to mulch tree trunks with peat crumbs and humus.

To increase the yield of sweet cherries, plants should be cut correctly. There are forming, sanitary and rejuvenating crown pruning.

• anti-aging pruning carried out with a decrease in the yield of a tree. All branches on the tree are shortened by the length of annual shoots, with such pruning, flower buds of the next year are not damaged and the development of new shoots is stimulated.

Pruning of young trees is carried out in order to form a crown

• Sanitary pruning required by trees that have received damage to skeletal branches. The cut areas are treated with paint or garden varnish to reduce the wound surface and prevent the spread of infections.
• Formative pruning carried out on young seedlings in the first year of planting, forming the skeleton of a tree in the classical sparse-tiered system for sweet cherries. With such a crown, all branches of the tree are evenly illuminated by the sun, unhindered ventilation is provided. Pruning scheme: in total, there are from 6 to 8 main branches in the crown, which form three tiers.

Advice! Any pruning should be done before the start of the growing season.

The height of the bole depends on the growing area, in the Moscow region it is necessary to leave the bole high from 40 cm. The trunk is cut above the upper bud, the next year the 3 strongest branches are left in the crown and they are not longer than half a meter. The central shoot is shortened to 4 buds.

How and when to feed cherries?

For young plants, the set of nutrients that are laid in the pits when planting seedlings is quite enough. In the first year of cherries, you can not fertilize.

In the following growing years, sweet cherries need top dressing in spring and autumn, while fertilizers are applied in the spring that stimulate growth - nitrogen. In autumn, potash and phosphorus compounds are introduced.

Advice! An overdose of nitrogen fertilizers leads to uncontrolled growth of the crown, which is bad for future crops.

Cherry breeding

Stone fruit crops, when propagated by seeds, do not retain varietal characteristics, so this method is usually not used to expand the garden.

The best way to propagate cherries - graft, which is carried out by the method of copulation. Cuttings of high-yielding varieties (graft) are grafted onto resistant young seedlings of cultivated varieties (rootstock). Grafted seedlings perfectly repeat parental traits, retain high yields and resistance to frost.

There is a possibility of propagation of the cherry tree by cuttings, but the survival rate of cuttings is low, only up to 5%, so this method is considered unproductive and is rarely used.

Sweet cherry: the main diseases of the culture

Sweet cherries have fewer diseases than other stone fruits, but the main diseases of the culture are coccomycosis and moniliosis of sweet cherries.

Moniliosis occurs when plants are infected with pathogenic fungi Monilla cinerea. When the disease spreads on a cherry tree, the branches and leaves dry out, as well as the fruits rot. The infection spreads quickly along the crown of the tree, especially with dense plantings in low and damp places. Cool weather and frequent rainfall contribute to the disease.

Treat your garden for pests

Coccomycosis - infection with the fungus Coccomyces hiemalis appears on leaf blades in the form of merging spots of small red dots. The infection affects plants in inclement weather. The leaves are affected by infections, gradually turn brown and fall off.

To combat infections, plants are treated with Horus at the rate of 30 g per bucket of water.

Advice! Soap should be added to the preparation solution to form a thick foam. Spraying starts from the inside of the leaves.

Affected parts of diseased plants should be burned to prevent the spread of infections.

Of all the pests, the most malicious for cherries is aphids - pest control is carried out with the help of special preparations.

Sweet cherry in central Russia: video

Growing cherries in the suburbs: photo

When the fruits are harvested, the plants send slag substances into the foliage, thereby purifying their body. There is a laying of fruit buds. Plants reduce the water content of their tissues, significantly reducing sap flow. If in summer time garden plants were in active growth, then in autumn they ripen wood and thicken the bark on young shoots.

Plants thus prepare for wintering. But what if, suppose, a wind came up and cut off the already weakly sitting, but not yet yellowed foliage?

Or the gardener, out of inexperience, carried out a formative pruning of the crowns, and it rained all autumn - and the young shoots continued to grow. In addition, herbivorous mites, aphids, wasps, butterflies and beetles attacked the trees - a gardener's constant headache. As a result, the plants were incorrectly or insufficiently prepared for wintering, or even turned out to be unprepared for it.

And in the spring we will see black branches beaten by frost, cracked bark, frostbites, dried fruit buds, revelry of ticks, flies, aphids, moths, butterflies and other uninvited guests.

If this happens with wild trees and bushes, for example, with a wild apple tree, a thorn, a mountain ash somewhere outside the site, many will not even pay attention. But on the garden plot, this is striking and indicates the unwillingness or inability of the owner of the garden to deal with his pets. We live in a zone of risky farming and therefore are simply obliged to carry out the entire annual cycle of activities to care for our garden.

To survive the cold

A very important issue is to reduce the intensity of sap flow in the tissues. If the wood is wet, then when water freezes at sub-zero temperatures at night, longitudinal cracks will form on it. Sometimes these cracks can penetrate very far and deep, dooming the trunks to splitting, and the plant to death. If the bark is strong, it prevents the splitting of wood, but the tender cambium cells freezing under it with the onset of heat are quickly affected by fungi - weeping areas are formed,

shafts, and the bark itself is cracking. Looking ahead, we note that any cracks and frostbites are cleared to a healthy tissue, covered with pitch and covered with burlap or matting.

But it's better not to let that happen. Potassium (K) helps to reduce sap flow. It is applied in the form of potash fertilizers or furnace ash to the root circle, that is, to the surface around the trunk, for most plants limited by the projection of the crown on

Don't let it dry out

Any living organism, including plants, in the process of life releases the so-called dissimilation products, called slags. In humans and animals, they are constantly excreted and only a small part of them is deposited in the tissues. In plants, almost all dissimilation products, with the exception of oxygen and water, are slags. A very small part of them is displayed by the root system. And the bulk is sent to the aging foliage. Moreover, it has been noticed that the loss of chlorophyll, that is, the green pigment, by foliage is just associated with the accumulation of slag substances in it.

If the foliage is dried up or beaten by mites, it turns yellow, turns brown and dries even before the plant sends a current of toxins into it. That is, the gardener is faced with the task of preserving the green color of the foliage until a certain time. It's easy to do. Dryness is removed by regular irrigation of the crown with fine spray water. Naturally, they do this in the absence of rain and in the evening hours. Regular watering under the root also helps to preserve the leaves.

Formative pruning is carried out after the foliage has fallen. Autumn pruning is preferable, as the plant does not need to be nourished and prepared for wintering. large volume crowns. 4-5 fruit buds are left on the branch. Sections more than 1 cm in diameter are covered with garden pitch, RanNet, green oil paint or minium. Normally, the branch is cut off about 5 mm from the fork - so that the remaining bark grows over the wound over time. But during autumn pruning, such a low cut contributes to the freezing of unprotected wood. Therefore, in the fall, a stump about 5 cm long is left, and in the spring it is cut closer to the fork.

Treatment of the garden with preparations

Black, gray or red spots on the foliage indicate its defeat by fungi. EU / and there are few such leaves, they are picked by hand. Otherwise, the crown is treated with fungicidal preparations.

The fight against insects and mites is carried out using special pesticide preparations. You just need to remember that insecticides - poisons for insect control - do not destroy ticks, which should be controlled with acaricides.

On labels, the classification of the drug is written in small print somewhere near the commercial name or active substance. Important: drugs with different sonorous commercial names may contain the same active ingredient.

If the pesticide preparation is of the class of insectoacaricides, then it is simultaneously effective in the fight against both insects and mites. If different insecticidal and acaricidal preparations are used, they should not be mixed. It is better to spread their application for 1-2 days.

Plants should be treated in the evening in dry weather. Green soap or other saponifier must be added to the working solution, which contributes to good wetting of surfaces. Processing should be carried out after harvesting until the first night frosts with a frequency of 1 time in 2 weeks.

Don't forget fruit trees!

I start autumn time in the garden with cleaning the foliage under the trees. Thus, I do not allow pest pupae to overwinter and continue their destructive actions in my garden.

After all the foliage is collected and placed in compost, I carefully dig up the ground under the apple trees - this will neutralize most of the pests that have already gathered to hibernate under the tree. They will die at the first frost.

I'm also removing the trash.

In no case do I compost it, but bury it away from the garden. After this necessary sanitization, I proceed to feeding the apple trees.

To apply dry fertilizers, first I remove the top layer of soil in the near-stem circle (1-2 cm), distribute top dressing and return the soil to its place. For 1 sq. m of soil I bring 5-6 kg of humus, wood ash.

I usually combine this top dressing with moisture-charging watering, which is essential for every garden so that winter frosts do not pull all the moisture out of the trees. This watering is called water-charging, because it needs a lot of water. You need to wet the ground by 1-1.5 m. The degree of moisture can be determined as follows: dig a hole 30 centimeters deep among the trees and take a piece of earth from its bottom. Squeeze it in the palm of your hand and see how it behaves. If during compression you get a dense lump that leaves a wet mark on the paper, you do not need to water. If the lump is dense, but leaves no trace, reduce the watering rate by 30%. If the earth is dry and does not hold a lump, get ready to water it in full.

Watering is carried out by digging furrows around the circumference of the crown. The irrigation rate, subject to the full program, is 10-15 buckets of water per 1 sq. m. For young trees, this rate is 3 buckets. So, with a little work, you will save fruit trees until spring and you can expect an excellent harvest from them!

There have been, are and will be disputes around the digging of the near-stem circle of fruit trees for a very long time, probably as long as gardens exist. Only relatively recently have the disputes subsided about what to do with the aisles of the garden: either iron them with tractors, compacting the soil and carrying humus with the wind to a neighbor in the field, or still mow the grass at an early stage until it gives seeds. Everything is clear here - they decided to mow and seemed to put an end to it; but digging near-stem circles is a completely different matter.

Options for keeping the near-trunk circle of fruit trees

In fact, there are quite a few options for maintaining the near-trunk circle of a fruit tree, here there is black steam (namely digging), and turfing, and mulching, and each of these activities has both pros and cons. For example, digging the soil in the near-trunk strip and the same mulching can be quite combined, including watering and fertilizing, while simultaneously increasing the efficiency of these agricultural practices. But by doing nothing, you can also get nothing. Usually, having read different sites, the gardener, having weighed all the pros and cons, comes to some kind of consensus. And his physical abilities also help him in this (alas, not everyone has the strength to dig up tree trunks as well).

Advantages of digging a near-trunk strip of a fruit tree

Let's start with the advantages of digging the trunk of absolutely any fruit tree. First of all, and this is perhaps the most important thing, when digging the near-trunk strip perish different kind pests settled there for the winter.

After all, how do we act: first we remove all branches, foliage, various kinds of garbage, fallen fruits from the near-trunk circle, and then we just take a shovel and dig it up. That is, everything where the “spider bugs” could hide is no more, it is collected in a heap and burns somewhere at the end of the garden.

In addition, if the garden suffered from pests this year, then digging the soil without using humus mulching can literally help to freeze out the wintering stages of pests and diseases, those that decide to spend the winter not in fallen leaves or exfoliated parts of wood, but in soil layer, just at the depth of its digging (10-15 centimeters). Only in this case, the soil after digging should not be leveled, let it be so loosened (that is, in lumps) and remain.

The next definite plus is soil aeration: digging up the soil, even seemingly to an insignificant depth, some 10-15 centimeters, we significantly increase both the air exchange of the soil and its water exchange, and also break the soil crust. Consequently, moisture can freely enter the soil and its excess, which is really a lot this year, will evaporate, the roots can consume substances dissolved in water. After all, in order for the processes to go on as usual, we need not only water and substances dissolved in it, but also air.

Plus the third: by digging the soil, we we eliminate absolutely all competitors, which can compete with a tree (or even an adult tree) in the fight for food and moisture. And this, of course, is a variety of weeds, and a number of them, such as, say, dandelion or creeping wheatgrass, are very voracious. And if the tree is in the country, where you don’t visit often, rarely fertilize and only water the soil from time to time, then their complete elimination is a big plus for the plant, it seems to breathe a sigh of relief and stop sharing moisture and food (sometimes very meager ) with their rivals.

On rich soils, with a lack of space (and, consider, it is always not enough) it is possible to grow fast-growing shade-tolerant crops, green, radish, especially while the plant is still young and, of course, while providing the culture with plenty of nutrition and moisture. But before that, you need to prepare the soil well, dig it up, fertilize it, make beds and the like, that is, it must be an ideal and nutritious black fallow.

Cons of digging the soil in the near-trunk strip of fruit trees

It seems that everything is rosy, and we grab a shovel, but there can be disadvantages from such an active pressure.

The most common minus is that with a flourish, sticking the spade bayonet to its full length, we hurt root system plants. Remember: it is better to dig the soil in the bite zone to a depth of 10-15 cm, there is no need to go further. You can either expose the roots or damage them: exposed, they can freeze in winter, and infection can easily penetrate through the damage, as through an open gate. There’s nothing you can do about it, but you must admit that this is not a minus of the method itself, but of a gardener, especially an untrained beginner who, after reading these very lines, will no longer do this.

The second minus is, oddly enough, but frequent digging may not improve, but worsen the quality of the soil, especially in years accompanied by frequent winds and droughts: the wind will tritely blow away the nutrient layer from dug up soil. But there are many nuances here: firstly, what kind of soil is on your site: if it is black soil, then, as they say, only a hurricane will be able to “blow off” the nutrient top layer, well, then everything around will suffer, and not just this particular tree. And if the soils are light and sandy, then maybe there is no need for digging at all, that is, in principle, you can get by with banal loosening to break the soil crust.

Severe moisture loss, this is another reason that it is better not to touch the soil. This again applies to residents of cottages: if you water the soil a little, but often fight weeds, loosening and digging the soil, you yourself, unwittingly, stimulate increased evaporation of moisture from its surface and even deeper layers, which naturally leads to depletion of moisture in the soil, and plants on such an “ideal” trunk circle begin to dry out from lack of moisture. And again, this is not the problem of digging the soil, but the problem of the summer resident himself: well, who prevents you from installing the system drip irrigation or it is good to flavor the soil with moisture after each digging. Forgive me, but if you have enough strength to dig up the soil in the near-trunk strip, then it is quite possible that you will have enough strength to water this very tree! In addition, if the soil is not dug up, then, say, a small or medium-term rain will not be absorbed into the soil, but will flow down the soil crust, and although the dug-up soil has risks, there are all chances for enrichment with moisture too.

And finally - digging the soil in the autumn, especially in newly planted plants and stone fruits, can lead to banal freezing of the root system, and this is very dangerous and can both cause the same infections and lead to the death of the plant as a whole. Although, who bothers to mulch the soil after this digging, the mulch will penetrate into slightly deeper layers, cover with snow, and when the snow melts, it will turn into the first food for the same young plants that will be delighted with such a gift and use it while you are through impassable mud You can't even get to the plants.

So, most gardeners are still for digging the soil in the near-trunk zone of fruit trees, but wisely!

When to dig the near-trunk circle of trees?

Most fruit growers for keeping the near-stem circle clean and for digging it, that is, for black fallow under an apple tree or pear, cherry or plum, and so on. At the same time, one-time digging of the soil will not solve much; it is better to carry out them four or even five times during the season.

Usually for the first time, trunk circles are dug up in early spring, when the snow melts and the soil warms up. Digging at this time allows the soil to quickly warm up to a great depth, and then it is enough to wait a week, let it warm up well, and you can safely mulch it with compost with a layer of a couple of centimeters, giving the plants additional nutrition. In addition, the forgotten compost will slow down the growth of weeds, and reduce the evaporation of moisture, and further overheating of the soil will reduce. It is also possible to combine soil digging with composting with the application of fertilizers, for example, liquid nitroammophoska (a tablespoon per bucket of water and a couple of liters under a tree).

At the same time, try to dig the soil not right at the trunk itself (it’s generally dangerous to do this with stone fruits, there is a sensitive root neck: moisture will collect and the neck will start to rot), because here, mainly, there are thick roots that hold the plant, and a little further away, on 12-15 cm from the trunk (absorbent, most active roots are often located in this zone). The benefits of such (correct) digging will be maximum.

Important! When digging the soil around the tree, place the shovel with an edge (along with the growth of the roots, and not across their growth), only in this way the risk of injury to the root system of the tree will be minimized.

Carry out the second digging of the soil in the middle of summer, combine it with the introduction of potassium sulfate (15-20 g per square meter, also better in liquid form), weed removal and, if necessary, watering (a couple of buckets under a tree). Then you can mulch with 0.5 kg of compost for each tree (after digging).

Important! When making raw compost for stone fruit plants, try to retreat from the root neck, in order to avoid its dampening, 2-3 centimeters, in no case do not pile fertilizers on it, including other types of mulch.

The need for a third digging is usually determined as the near-trunk strip is clogged with weeds and the soil is compacted, weeds are also removed and fertilizers are applied, but this time wood ash (a source of potassium and trace elements, like soot) or soot, 250-300 g for each plant . You can also mulch the plants with compost, a kilogram each.

The fourth digging of the soil can be carried out in September, it is permissible to combine it with water-charging irrigation by pouring 5-6 buckets of water under each plant for three or four days. At the end (after digging), so that the moisture does not evaporate, you can also mulch the surface with compost a centimeter and a half thick. Mulching with compost can help protect roots that are accidentally damaged by digging.

The final digging of the soil, which we already have the fifth in a row, can be carried out just 5-7 days before the onset of a period with stable negative temperatures. Here you need to rid the trunk circle of all plant debris, dig it up and mulch it with humus, a layer of 4-5 cm, in order to save the roots from freezing.

Among the countless varieties and hybrids of sweet peppers, there are such as, for example, Ramiro peppers, whose popularity is literally global. And if most of the vegetables on the shelves of supermarkets are nameless, and it is almost impossible to find out about their varietal affiliation, then the name of this Ramiro pepper will certainly be on the package. And, as my experience has shown, this pepper is worth knowing about it and other gardeners. That is why this article was written.

Autumn is the busiest time. It is no longer hot, in the morning there is heavy dew. Since the earth is still warm, and foliage has already attacked from above, creating a very special microclimate in the surface layer, the mushrooms are very comfortable. Mushroom pickers are also comfortable at this time, especially in the mornings when it is cooler. It's time for both to meet. And, if not introduced to each other - get to know each other. In this article I will introduce you to exotic, little-known and not always edible mushrooms similar to corals.

If you are a busy person, but at the same time not without romance, if you have your own site and you are endowed with aesthetic taste, then explore the opportunity to purchase this wonderful ornamental shrub- Caryopteris, or Nutwing. He is also a "wing hazel", "blue fog" and "blue beard". In it, indeed, unpretentiousness and beauty are fully combined. Cariopteris reaches its decorative peak at the end of summer and autumn. It is at this time that it blooms.

Ajvar from pepper - vegetable caviar or thick vegetable sauce from bell pepper with eggplant. Peppers for this recipe are baked, and for quite a long time, then they are also stewed. Onions, tomatoes, eggplants are added to ajvar. For harvesting for the winter, caviar is sterilized. This Balkan recipe is not for those who like to make preparations quickly, undercooked and underbaked - not about ajvar. In general, we approach the matter in detail. For the sauce, we choose the most ripe and meaty vegetables on the market.

Despite the simple names (“sticky” or “indoor maple”) and the status of a modern substitute for indoor hibiscus, abutilons are far from the simplest plants. They grow well, bloom profusely and delight with a healthy look of greenery only in optimal conditions. On thin leaves, any deviations from comfortable lighting or temperatures and violations in care quickly appear. To reveal the beauty of abutilons in rooms, it is worth finding the perfect place for them.

Pancakes from zucchini with parmesan and mushrooms - a delicious recipe with a photo of the available products. Ordinary squash pancakes can easily be turned into a boring dish by adding a few savory ingredients to the dough. In the zucchini season, treat your family to vegetable pancakes with wild mushrooms, it is not only very tasty, but also satisfying. Zucchini is a versatile vegetable, it is suitable for stuffing, for preparations, for second courses, and even for sweets there are delicious recipes - compotes and jams are made from zucchini.

The idea of ​​growing vegetables on the grass, under the grass and in the grass is at first scary, until you feel the naturalness of the process: in nature, everything happens that way. With the obligatory participation of all soil living creatures: from bacteria and fungi to moles and toads. Each of them contributes. Traditional tillage with digging, loosening, fertilizing, fighting all those we consider pests destroys the biocenoses that have been created for centuries. In addition, it requires a lot of labor and resources.

What to do instead of a lawn? So that all this beauty does not turn yellow, does not hurt and at the same time looks like a lawn ... I hope that the smart and quick-witted reader is already smiling. After all, the answer suggests itself - if nothing is done, nothing will happen. Of course, there are several solutions that can be used, and with their help, reduce the area of ​​​​the lawn, and therefore reduce the laboriousness of caring for it. I propose to consider alternative options and discuss their pros and cons.

Tomato sauce with onion and sweet pepper - thick, fragrant, with pieces of vegetables. The sauce cooks quickly and turns out thick because this recipe is with pectin. Make such preparations at the end of summer or autumn, when the vegetables have ripened under the sun in the beds. From bright, red tomatoes you get the same bright homemade ketchup. This sauce is a ready-made spaghetti dressing, and you can also just spread it on bread - very tasty. For better preservation, you can add a little vinegar.

This year I often saw a picture: among the luxurious green crown of trees and shrubs, here and there, like candles, the tops of the shoots are “burning”. This is chlorosis. Most of us know about chlorosis from school biology lessons. I remember that this is a lack of iron ... But chlorosis is an ambiguous concept. And not always lightening the foliage means a lack of iron. What is chlorosis, what our plants lack in chlorosis and how to help them, we will tell in the article.

Vegetables in Korean for the winter - delicious Korean salad with tomatoes and cucumbers. The salad is sweet and sour, spicy and slightly spicy, because it is prepared with seasoning for Korean carrots. Be sure to prepare several jars for the winter, in the cold winter this healthy and fragrant snack will come in handy. For the recipe, you can use overripe cucumbers, it is better to harvest vegetables in late summer or early autumn, when they are ripe in the open field under the sun.

Autumn for me is dahlias. Mine begin to bloom already in June, and all summer the neighbors look over the fence to me, reminding me that I promised them a few tubers or seeds by autumn. In September, a tart note appears in the aroma of these flowers, hinting at the approaching cold. So, it's time to start preparing plants for a long cold winter. In this article I will share my secrets of autumn care for perennial dahlias and preparing them for winter storage.

To date, the efforts of breeders have bred, according to various sources, from seven to ten thousand (!) varieties of cultivated apple trees. But with their huge variety in private gardens, as a rule, only a couple of popular and beloved varieties grow. Apple trees are large trees with a spreading crown, and you cannot grow many of them in one area. But what if you try to grow columnar varieties of this crop? In this article I will talk about such varieties of apple trees.

Pinjur - Balkan eggplant caviar with sweet peppers, onions and tomatoes. Distinctive feature dishes - eggplants and peppers are first baked, then peeled and simmered for a long time in a brazier or in a saucepan with a thick bottom, adding the rest of the vegetables indicated in the recipe. The caviar is very thick, with a bright, rich taste. In my opinion, this cooking method is the best of all known. Although it is more troublesome, the result compensates for the labor costs.