The appearance of drywall in the construction industry made it possible to move away from activities related to leveling surfaces, which were previously carried out with leveling solutions (plaster and putty). The installation of this material allows you to create a surface with a high evenness index on the wall or ceiling. This, in turn, is a guarantee of high-quality finishing.

Plasterboard sheets allow you to level the plane with any difference in the area to be trimmed. If this difference is small up to 5 cm, then you can use the frameless installation method. If more than 5 cm, then drywall is mounted only on the frame.

Tools and Profiles

Currently, this leveling material is mounted on a crate made of metal profiles. The very technology of erecting a new surface is so simple that even it can handle it.

Photo of a curly plasterboard wall with backlight

Much more photo of drywall walls see .

This will require the drywall sheet itself and several profiles: for wall decoration - guide and rack, for the ceiling - guide and ceiling. As well as direct suspensions and self-tapping screws with dowels.

From tools:

• Perforator;
• Screwdriver;
• Planer for removing edges;
• Level;
• Plumb;
• Putty knife.

Tool for mounting metal frames under drywall

Mounting the frame for drywall

Let's consider . To do this, you need to determine the slope of the wall itself. It can be tilted into the room or out. To determine this, it is necessary to attach a suspension to the upper corner of the wall. If an indefinite distance moved away from the lower corner near the floor, then the wall is tilted inward. If it lies tightly on the surface of the wall, then you will have to shift the installation site of the plumb line a little towards yourself, that is, combine the sinker with the lower corner.

In the first case, it will be necessary to make marks on the ceiling right next to the wall in each opposite corner horizontally. Connect them with a line on which the guide profile is installed. Then, using a plumb line on the floor, determine two points at the corners, connect them together and fix the guide profile on the floor.

In order to install the profiles simply, you need to cut them to the size of the length of the wall, make holes in them, install along the line and mark the fasteners through the holes. Then, holes are made in the floor or ceiling with a puncher, where plastic dowels are hammered. It is to them that the upper and lower profiles are attached with self-tapping screws.

In the event that the length of the room is greater than the length of the profile (3 m), then they will have to be increased. There is nothing difficult in this. Two connected elements are inserted into each other with ends and attached with a self-tapping screw. More often they refuse it, because the fastening is done along one line.

The standard distance between the centers of the guides is 60 cm

The next step is the installation of rack profiles. Two outer elements can be installed at once, fastening to adjacent walls and to the upper and lower rails. To install intermediate elements, you will have to put vertical lines on the wall, which will determine the place of their installation. The standard distance between them is 60 cm, because the width of the drywall sheet is 120 cm. That is, three profiles must be installed under each sheet, one of which is in the middle.

On the lines drawn, every 50-60 cm, direct suspensions are installed, which are attached to the surface with self-tapping screws. To do this, you will need a puncher and a screwdriver. To make sure that the intermediate elements will be in the same plane, it is necessary to pull a strong thread in several rows between the two extreme rack profiles. It is on it and carry out the alignment.

Option to reinforce the frame under drywall with a wooden bar

After the intermediate profiles are installed, you can install several crossbars every 30-40-50-60 cm. The step is chosen at your discretion, a lot will depend on the height of the ceiling in the room. The higher the ceiling, the slower the step. The crossbars will strengthen the frame, make it rigid.

Drywall fixing

So, the crate is ready, you can proceed to the installation of drywall. Before installing each sheet, it is necessary to process its edges with a special planer in order to create a small groove when joining. It will have to be sealed with putty.

We lift the sheet, install it to the crate so that it lies on three vertical profiles. In this case, the edge of the panel should lie in the middle of the frame element. That is, two sheets must be joined at once on one profile. This does not apply to the corner element, which completely covers the sheet.

Drywall is fastened with self-tapping screws, here it is necessary to maintain certain dimensions.

• The distance from the edge of the panel to the attachment point is 10-15 mm.
• The distance between fasteners is 100-150 mm.
• Cap screwing depth up to 5 mm.

Puttying the joints of plasterboard sheets

After all the sheets are laid and fixed, it is necessary to seal the joints. For this, a putty mortar is used, with which the seam is filled. Then a special tape is immediately applied to it, which is covered with a layer of putty on top. This will require a spatula. Please note that the places where drywall is attached to the frame are also sealed with mortar.

The nuances of building a frame on the ceiling

First of all, you need to determine the lowest corner in the room. To do this, measure the height of all corners, smallest size what you need. It is here that a laser level is set at a certain height, which determines the location of the new ceiling. Its light beams on the walls will outline the outline. They will have to install guide profiles to the walls.

It is usually carried out along the room, therefore, across the room from one of the walls, we set aside dimensions in increments of 60 cm. We draw lines along them for installing suspensions. The latter are installed in increments of 40-50 cm. Several rows of threads are pulled between two longitudinal guides, and the intermediate elements of the crate will have to be aligned along them.

Reinforced frame for plasterboard ceiling

The profiles are installed with their ends in the groove of the guides, they are aligned along the threads and fastened to the hangers. After that, the frame will need to be reinforced with crossbars, as is the case with the wall.

Drywall finishing

If the plasterboard wall needs to be painted or wallpapered on it, then finishing work cannot be carried out in this form. Drywall will need to be trimmed. To do this, its surface is needed additionally. This material has a fine-grained structure, and if it is applied in a thin layer and finished with sandpaper, the plane will be even.

Scheme for this type of work:

• The plasterboard surface is treated with a primer. You need to let the surface dry. This usually takes 4-6 hours. This must be done in order for the cardboard to become the owner of a surface with a high degree adhesion.
• Next, a layer of putty is applied, which must also be dried.
• If the degree of evenness does not suit you, then you will have to apply another layer. But before that, the first must be treated with a primer.
• Now with fine-grained sandpaper it is necessary to process the puttied surface. For this, a trowel is used, on which sandpaper is attached. With circular unhurried movements, without effort and pressure, you need to walk over the entire treated area.
• After that, a layer of primer is applied to the drywall.
• Once it dries, you can paint or wallpaper.

Plasterboard sheets (GKL) are an excellent substitute for the usual method of leveling walls - plaster. The article discusses the main methods of applying this material.

Plasterboard wall cladding

Gypsum boards are produced in sizes 1200 * 2500 mm, thickness varies from 6.5 to 12.5 mm. The technical characteristics of drywall allow it to be used for interior decoration in all rooms. There are types of drywall with increased moisture or fire resistance.

Drywall interior decoration: advantages and disadvantages

Cladding walls and ceilings has a number of undeniable advantages:

• the ability to hide under the sheets of communications, such as electrical wiring or heating pipes;
• the ability to level even very uneven walls;
• high installation speed;
• mineral wool can be laid in the voids between the wall and the sheathing to increase sound and heat insulation.

Of the significant shortcomings, it should be noted the higher, relative to plaster, the cost of material and work, the impossibility of hanging heavy objects without prior preparation.

Sheathing methods

GCR surfaces are designed in 2 ways:

1. By frame.
2. Directly on the wall or ceiling.

The frame is usually made of a galvanized thin-walled metal profile, but it is also possible to manufacture it from wood. When fastening sheets without a profile, special glue and dowels with self-tapping screws are used.

GKL sheathing on the frame: technology

When fastening the material using a frame, it is very important to mount it correctly.

• The guides fixed on the walls must be strictly vertical, as well as the intermediate racks.
• The distance between the centers of the racks should be 600 mm, i.e. so that the joint of the sheets falls on the profile.
• To strengthen the structure, you can reduce the size to 400 mm.
• If it is necessary to join sheets vertically, a horizontal profile is installed to link 2 sheets together.
• Drywall is fixed to a metal frame with black self-tapping screws for metal, 25-32 mm long, to a wooden one - with self-tapping screws for wood of the same length.
• To improve the strength and insulating properties, it is possible to sew with sheets in 2 layers. In this case, the sheets are sewn in a checkerboard pattern.

How to sew drywall without a frame

GKL without using a frame can be fixed with special glue or mechanically, using dowels and self-tapping screws. It is allowed to combine these 2 methods, fixing the sheets first on the adhesive composition, and after it dries, on self-tapping screws. At the same time, it is important to fasten drywall with hardware in those places where the glue is applied, and not between them, because. can be deformed and even break the coating.

GKL decor

Plasterboard walls and ceilings are painted, covered with wallpaper, simple or paintable, finished with decorative plaster compositions. The walls are tiled with tiles, decorative bricks, stone, etc.

Suspension

Only light objects can be hung on plasterboard walls, such as photographs, decorative shelves, light mirrors. For screwing self-tapping screws into the GKL, special dowels are used: driva, molly or "butterflies". Provided that the location of the profile is precisely known, it is possible to tighten the metal screws to hang various objects directly into the frame elements. For attaching heavier items (cabinets or bookshelves), it is necessary to arrange special mortgages.

Do-it-yourself mounting technology on the profile on the walls

To install a false wall of drywall, you will need the following tools:

• Roulette, square, pencil.
• Level.
• Plumb.
• Thread (lace).
• Metal shears or grinder.
• Perforator.
• Screwdriver.
• Pliers.
• Profile cutter.
• Construction knife.
• Planer for drywall.
• Putty knife.

Materials:

• Guide profile PN.
• Rack profile PS or ceiling profile PP.
• Suspension straight.
• Single-level connector (crab).
• Dowels.
• Self-tapping screws for wood, black metal.
• self-tapping screws for thin plates with a press washer pointed (bugs).
• Damper tape.
• Sickle tape or paper tape for joints.
• Putty.

Mounting methods for dowels: how to install

A damper tape is attached along the perimeter of the future wall, and a guide profile is attached to it. The frame element is installed on the floor in the form of an inverted letter "P", fastened with self-tapping screws to wooden floor or dowels and screws to concrete. After that, strictly vertically above the floor profile, the guide is attached to the ceiling, then the guides are attached to the walls.

It is necessary to observe strict verticality, unless otherwise provided by the design.

How to choose fasteners for brick, concrete and wooden walls

To attach the hangers and rails to the walls, you may need various hardware, depending on the material of the walls. The frame elements are attached to the wooden walls with wood screws. For installation on brick or concrete surfaces, you need to use dowels with self-tapping screws or dowel nails. The use of dowel-nails increases the speed of work, but it is more difficult to dismantle them if it is necessary to redo the structure

How to properly mount and lay the profile

After installing the guides around the perimeter, mark the location of the rack profiles. Usually they are placed at a distance of 600 mm between the centers, so that the vertical joints of the sheets fall clearly in the middle of the profile. To give the frame greater rigidity, the distance is reduced to 400 mm. From the points obtained, vertical lines are drawn, direct suspensions are attached to them in increments of 400-500 mm. Insert the rack profile cut to size with the ends into the guides on the floor and in the ceiling.

The rack profile should be cut 5-6 mm shorter than the distance between the floor and the ceiling.

The rack profile is set vertically and attached to the guides with "bugs" or with the help of a notcher, then attached to the suspensions, constantly checking the verticality with a level. When all profiles are fixed, you should check the plane using the rule long level or threads. Deviation from the plane of more than 2 mm should be corrected.

At the joints of the sheets in height, additional horizontal profiles are installed. It is recommended to arrange such joints at the bottom of the wall.

How to fasten sheets of drywall to the frame: installation of drywall on the walls

Gypsum boards are fixed with self-tapping screws for metal 25 mm long. The sheet is put in place, fastened to 1 self-tapping screw, then adjusted in level and fastened to the rest. The fastening pitch should be approximately 200 mm or more. The hardware is twisted so that the head is flush with the surface of the sheet without breaking through the paper.

You need to fasten the sheet in one direction, for example, from left to right from bottom to top. If you fix the sheet in different angles, with further fastening it may bend.

First, whole sheets are attached, then the parts are cut to size and the remaining parts of the wall are covered. The cut edges are processed with a drywall planer.

Before sewing up the wall with sheets under the frame, you can lay sound and heat insulating materials, wiring.

Grouting seams and holes from dowels: how to finish

Seams with a factory chamfer on the wall are glued with sickle tape or paper tape for joints. Seams without a chamfer are cut with a construction knife. The surface is primed. Seams and recesses from self-tapping screws are puttied with gypsum-based putty mixtures. As a rule, the packaging of the material indicates whether it is suitable for sealing GKL joints or not.

Sheathing and finishing the ceiling in the apartment yourself: what you need

To install a plasterboard ceiling, you will need the same tools as for walls. Additionally, you will need a hydraulic level or a laser level, a coated marking cord and a T-shaped rack made of bars or a profile. All work on the ceiling is more convenient to do with a partner.

How to attach to a concrete base on the ceiling

On the ceiling mark the location of the ceiling profiles. Usually they are placed along a short wall with a step of 600 mm. The most convenient way to do this is with a coated cord. Then hangers are attached to dowels with self-tapping screws or dowel-nails. If the ceiling is lowered a considerable distance from the draft, special suspensions should be used, similar to the Armstrong ceiling mounts.

Mounting rails

Mark the attachment point with laser level or hydro level, marking points at the corners of the room at a given height, usually as close as possible to the draft ceiling, and drawing lines with a marking cord. A damper tape is attached to the wall, then guide profiles. The GKL ceiling can be lowered for laying insulating materials or communication devices.

How to hang sheets

GCR is attached to the frame, starting from the corner, with the long side along the short wall, parallel to the ceiling profiles on the plane. It is most convenient to fasten the sheets by supporting them with a special stand, which can be purchased at the store or made independently from a bar or profile in the form of the letter “T”. It is recommended to use moisture resistant GKL.

Do not let go of the sheet until it is secured with at least 15 screws.

Facing uneven walls with your own hands: what is worth remembering

When facing walls, it is important to maintain verticality and ensure that the profile does not deviate from the plane. If the GKL is attached to the wall without a frame, it is important to fasten the screws in places where the sheet will not “walk”, otherwise the screws will protrude on the surface. Before facing the walls, it is advisable to sweep or vacuum them and the space behind the frame, it is also recommended to prime them to avoid dust.

How to install faster

To increase the speed of installing drywall on the wall, you need to properly mount the frame and fix the first sheet without level deviations. Most quickly, such work is done by two or three people, when one person is busy setting the sheets in place and cutting to size, and the remaining 1 or 2 are pulling with self-tapping screws. The use of professional screwdrivers with tape feed of hardware significantly increases the speed of work.

What can be mounted on a plasterboard wall

With appropriate preparation, almost any item can be attached to walls made of gypsum plasterboard, including cabinets and storage water heaters. To do this, in the manufacture of the frame, so-called mortgages from plywood or boards are arranged. Lumber is sewn onto the draft wall so that the front surface of the mortgage is in the same plane as the frame. If the mortgage is deeper than the frame, when attaching hanging objects, the wall will be pushed through.

What can be covered with plasterboard sheathing

After sealing the seams and holes from the fasteners, the wall from the GKL can be painted or pasted over with wallpaper, covered decorative plaster, cover with textile wallpaper. Surfaces made of moisture-resistant drywall are recommended to be covered with a continuous layer of putty, otherwise the green color may be visible through the finish coat.

Also, the walls can be covered with tiles, decorative stone or brick, stucco, panels. Before facing, it is not necessary to process seams and traces of self-tapping screws.

Drywall is a modern finishing material that allows you to carry out finishing work with minimal labor and time costs.

Useful video

Sheathing walls with drywall involves attaching drywall sheets to the main walls. Due to the excellent insulating qualities of the material, plasterboard wall cladding has become quite widespread and well-deserved popularity. In practice, plasterboard walls are used in a variety of rooms, both in apartments and in office premises. This is due to the fact that finishing the walls with drywall has a lot of advantages compared to any other finish. You will learn about the advantages of plasterboard wall cladding from this article. In addition, you will learn how to sheathe walls with drywall with your own hands.

What is this article about

Advantages of drywall

As mentioned earlier, plasterboard sheathing has a lot of advantages. Among them are the following.

• Plasterboard sheathing is available to everyone. Plasterboard sheets are quite common and have an affordable price, so that plasterboard walls can be relatively inexpensive.
• Wall cladding with drywall will allow you to get a perfectly flat wall. If you decide to sheathe the walls with drywall, then you can be sure that there will be no problems with decorative finishes. In addition, you do not have to fool around with how to level drywall.
• Wall cladding with drywall is completely environmentally friendly. Many, before sheathing walls with drywall, are wondering if the material will harm people in the apartment? The fears are in vain. Sheathing drywall walls is a completely environmentally friendly solution.
• Finishing the room with drywall will save your apartment from some troubles. It is worth talking about this in a little more detail before sheathing the wall with drywall. Finishing ceilings and walls with plasterboard does not always involve cladding with ordinary gray drywall sheets. There are two special types of drywall sheets. First, moisture-resistant green gypsum boards. They resist damp air perfectly and are ideal for installation in a bathroom, closet or other damp environment. Secondly, flame retardant pink drywall sheets. These sheets are a fireproof material that is suitable for installation in very warm rooms where there is an increased level of fire danger.
• Finishing the walls with drywall is a fairly easy process. Even a beginner who does not have any professional skills will be able to figure out how to sheathe walls with drywall. Sheathing the walls with drywall with your own hands, you definitely will not encounter any insurmountable obstacles. Moreover, drywall is a very flexible material in terms of processing. For example, you can easily make a log cabin in front of the window in the sheathing.
• As mentioned in the paragraph above, do-it-yourself wall cladding with drywall will not put you in a difficult position. the same applies to the operation of plasterboard walls.
• You can repair plasterboard walls at any time. The advantage of such a repair is that only the damaged area will have to be repaired, and not completely change the entire skin.

It is worth mentioning that in addition to the usual GKL, there are also GVL sheets. They are created from the same material, but differ somewhat in their structure. Both options are suitable for wall cladding.

Choice of plating method

Before proceeding with the sheathing of the walls, you need to decide on the method of interior installation. This is very important to make a smooth wall. There are two ways to decorate a wall drywall sheets: veneer the sheets directly on the wall, with a direct adjunction, or build a special metal frame, and then process it drywall sheets. The choice of mounting method depends on the step-by-step instruction and installation diagram. A lot depends on what material the main walls in the house are made of. They are brick, reinforced concrete or, if repairs are carried out in a country house, wooden.

On each of these materials, drywall sheets can be planted either directly or together with a metal frame. What determines our choice? The size of the error in the evenness of the wall is the determining indicator. The fact is that the main task of drywall sheathing is to level the wall, and if the main wall has a large error, and put drywall sheets on it without a frame, the error will remain uncorrected. If the wall defect is less than twenty millimeters, then you can safely cover the wall with putty, and put drywall sheets on it. If the error is more than twenty millimeters, then there are no options. Will install the frame.

However, it often happens that the master wants to install the frame on the wall with a small error or plant drywall sheets directly on an uneven surface. Why does this happen? You can understand this if you look at all the advantages and disadvantages of both installation methods.

The frame gives the plasterboard sheathing additional strength and reliability. In addition, various communications are really very easy to hide in the profiles of the metal frame. The frame can be installed absolutely on any surface, even when the unevenness is simply catastrophic. On a structure with a metal frame, even heavy finishes can be installed, such as tiles, which a plasterboard wall without a frame will not always withstand. However, the frame installation process complicates the installation as a whole too much, because it is the frame that occupies the bulk of the work. In addition, you will need to spend more money on metal profiles. The frame also slightly reduces the overall size of the free space in the room.

Mounting directly on the wall, in turn, is quite simple, does not require additional costs and does not reduce the room. However, this design is much less durable and more prone to damage. Plasterboard sheets glued to the wall are not able to withstand anything too heavy. Another fundamental drawback is that this installation option significantly loses in terms of the degree of sound insulation of the room.

Frame wall installation

The first thing to do before installing the frame is, of course, to draw up a diagram of the future structure, especially if it involves the installation of additional niches, and apply markings to the wall, with which it will be easier for you to install the frame crate. First, find the most protruding point on the wall. It is from her that all measurements will be taken, and the frame will be installed from it. This is necessary so that the frame is mounted completely flat, and accordingly the wall begins to level. From this point we make marks on the ceiling, floor, as well as all adjacent walls.

Next, we need two types of metal profiles - ceiling and rails. Using dowels, first we fix the guide profiles. The step between them should be one meter. After that, on direct suspensions, you need to install ceiling profiles at a distance of one and a half meters. To make sure that all profiles are installed correctly and securely fastened to each other, check the frame for strength with my own hands. It should not stagger, not a single profile should lag behind, and the attachment points should be fixed to the maximum. If the frame is strong enough and reliable, then you did everything right.

When the frame is installed and well fixed, it's time to take care of soundproofing and communications. Usually, soundproofing material is laid between the profiles. Any will do material that you consider reliable enough. Communications through a metal frame are easy to lay, but you should remember one very important detail. If you are laying electrical wiring in the frame, then the wires should be pulled through corrugated pipe. This is necessary because the edges of the metal profiles can simply damage the wires.

It's time to install drywall sheets. Cut them into the pieces you need. This is done very easily. You will not need any tools other than a utility knife or jigsaw. Plasterboard sheets are very easy to cut. But when you cut them, be prepared for the fact that the whole room will be in plaster dust. After you have received drywall pieces of the size you need, screw them to the frame using metal screws. It is important to deepen the screws so that their hats are completely spun into the material.

After all the drywall sheets are installed, it's time to finish. Before you start puttying, do not forget to prime the drywall surface of the wall. We need putty. It can be sold ready-made or dry. It is more often recommended to buy dry putty. Putty powder is diluted in water as indicated in the instructions. Then we take a spatula and cover the wall with prepared putty. It is important to fill well with putty all the seams formed at the joints of the drywall sheets. Holes from self-tapping screws and cracks formed during the installation process are also smeared. Putty must be smeared so that the result is a perfectly even wall without defects and irregularities.

When you are sure that the wall is smooth enough, and the putty is already dry enough, you can proceed to decorative trim. For this type of sheathing, absolutely any finishing material is suitable. You can, for example, paint the wall with plain paint, or you can use acrylic paints to create original drawings. Especially this option is suitable for creative people who love and know how to draw. Also, you can cover the wall with wallpaper. These options relate to the advantages that drywall gave us, namely the even wall created with it. But the frame also gives us advantages in decorative finishing. On this design, you can attach tiles or natural stone. The latter option is best installed on green moisture-resistant drywall sheets.

Gluing drywall sheets directly to the wall is also done, only without a frame. Glue is used instead. It is applied to the back of the sheet in the same way that we all applied PVA glue to craft cardboard in childhood. The edges of the sheet are smeared, and one large clot of glue fixes the central part. However, if possible, it is recommended to install drywall sheathing only with a frame, even if the wall is fairly even. This will help prevent defects in the future. However, it is worth remembering that the frame gives a relative guarantee of reliability only if it is correctly installed.

Interior decoration. Modern materials and technologies Nazarova Valentina Ivanovna

The technology of wall cladding with drywall sheets

The technology of wall cladding with plasterboard sheets provides for two methods - frameless and frame. With the frameless method, the sheets are glued to the walls using special adhesives, while the permissible height of the rooms to be lined is equal to the height of the sheet, but not more than 3.0 meters. With the frame method, the sheets are mounted on a previously installed frame, while the height of the premises is not limited by the height of the sheet, but should not exceed 10 meters.

In both cases, the installation of facings should be carried out during the period of finishing work before the installation of clean floors, when all the "wet" processes are completed. Works should be carried out in dry and normal humidity conditions at an air temperature in the room not lower than +15 C.

Only if these requirements are met and the technology is followed, cracks on the finished surface can be avoided.

Frameless wall cladding

With a frameless installation method, drywall sheets are glued directly to the wall. Depending on the evenness of the wall, there are three options for gluing sheets (Fig. 12).

Rice. 12. Frameless surface cladding

Option A. A flat wall surface involves gluing sheets to the wall surface, which is quite rare in practice. Such walls, as a rule, are made of reinforced concrete panels, and partitions are made of tongue-and-groove blocks. As an adhesive, a closed solution of Fugenfüller gypsum putty or Perlfix glue is used. They are applied to the gypsum board in continuous stripes around the perimeter and one or two stripes in the center with a thin layer using a notched trowel (Fig. 12a).

When using Fugenfüller putty, the protruding solution from the gaps of adjacent sheets is used to seal joints and a leveling layer of putty between the seams.

Option B. The unevenness of the wall is not more than 20 mm. These can be walls made of bricks, small blocks and other materials that require a thicker layer of gypsum adhesive. AT this case Perlfix glue is used, which is applied with a trowel in small patches (heaps) along the perimeter of the sheet in increments of about 25 ... 30 cm and along the middle of the sheet in 1-2 rows in increments of 35 ... 40 cm (Fig. 12b).

Option B. The unevenness of the wall is more than 20 mm. On such surfaces, a flat plane is preliminarily formed using strips cut off from the GKL sheet, about 10 cm wide, oriented along the perimeter and center of the sheet (Fig. 12c). The surface of the wall for the strip is prepared and treated with an appropriate primer, paint roller. The strips are glued to the surface with Perlfix glue, which is applied with a trowel. The glued strips act as beacons and must be well aligned and glued in the same plane of the wall. After the glue has completely dried, a sheet is glued to these strips using Fugenfüller glue. After the adhesive has set, the joints are sealed.

Prior to the commencement of facing work, it is necessary to complete all construction, installation and finishing work associated with "wet" processes, as well as to carry out hidden electrical wiring and lay plumbing communications. The conclusions of the electrical cables to the mounting boxes of electrical sockets and switches are laid so that their ends are accessible after the plasterboard lining is completed and, when drilling holes for the mounting boxes, they are not touched by cutters.

To increase adhesion (adhesion) to the walls, the surfaces must first be cleaned of dirt, dust and formwork lubricant residues, and then treated with appropriate primers.

The choice of primer type is carried out depending on the hygroscopicity of the walls. For smooth, poorly absorbent concrete walls- this is Vetokontakt. For hygroscopic, i.e., moisture-absorbing walls, surfaces are treated with Tiefengrund or Grundirmittel primers in order to reduce the absorption of moisture from the adhesive and enhance adhesion.

Before installing the sheets, their position is marked on the outside of the sheet. The marking is done from the wall, taking into account the necessary clearance for the thickness of the adhesive mass and the sheet itself, and marking lines are applied along them using a rip-off ink lace. Right angles are checked at adjacent walls and then marks are transferred to the ceiling and the base wall using a plumb line.

Drywall sheets are installed along the marking lines. After the primer dries, an adhesive solution is prepared, which is applied to the sheet. The sheet is lifted, installed on linings of 1 ... 2 plasterboard strips, 10 ... 20 mm high from the floor level and pressed against the wall. By lightly tapping on the rule pressed against the sheet, it is leveled and brought to a strictly vertical position. Verticality control is checked by level.

Between the upper edge of the sheets under the ceiling, a gap of 5 mm should be provided, when arranging joints, it is filled with putty, and a separating tape is glued before installation (Fig. 13).

Rice. 13. GCR fixed to walls with irregularities up to 20 mm

With the help of the thickness of the linings, the sheets are aligned vertically, at the same time their adjoining to the walls and to each other is controlled. The resulting gap at the base ensures the ventilation of drywall sheets when the adhesive compositions dry, and also prevents the sheets from coming into contact with the mortar when installing a self-leveling floor screed.

After the adhesive has completely cured, the joints are sealed. Since the frameless sheathing is carried out to the height of the drywall sheet, in this case only vertical joints occur, which can be puttied using two types of putties. With some types of putties, the joint device provides for the use of reinforcing tape, with others - without reinforcing the joints with tape.

Putty "Fugenfüller" is used for sealing longitudinal joints of plasterboard with a thinned edge and always with the use of reinforcing tape. Such material is a mesh or perforated glass cloth tape or high quality paper tape.

Especially for sealing seams and joints, the Fugenfüller GV putty is used, which has a tensile strength comparable to the strength of the drywall sheets themselves. Joints with semicircular edges are puttied with Uniflot mixture without reinforcing tape. At the same time, Uniflot gypsum universal putty, which has high strength characteristics, ensures reliable sealing of the seam and high quality finishes.

To seal the joints of GKL and GVL without reinforcing tape, a special high-strength putty "CE 86" manufactured by "SEMIN" or various compositions of other manufacturers is also used.

There are two technologies for using reinforcing tapes: either to embed the tape in a fresh putty layer, or to stick it on a putty surface. Since high-quality tapes pass moisture well, after the putty has dried, a strong monolithic reinforced layer is formed. Before puttying, all joints of the sheets are carefully primed.

After the primer dries, a layer of putty is applied to the joint with a width slightly larger than the width of the tape, then the reinforcing tape is pressed into the applied putty with a spatula (Fig. 14a). The operation is performed immediately after applying the putty, before it hardens. After the first layer of putty has completely dried, a covering layer is applied over the entire width of the joint, i.e., over the entire area of ​​thinning, using spatulas with a width exceeding twice the width of thinning sheets (Fig. 14b).

After complete drying, the seams are ground using manual grouting, using different numbers of a special grinding mesh for gypsum mortars or emery skins until a single plane with sheets is obtained. (Fig. 14c).

Rice. 14. Shaping the seam

The outer corners of drywall sheets should be reinforced with a metal perforated corner. The corner is pressed into the pre-applied putty and then covered with a leveling layer (Fig. 14d).

Internal corners are puttied with a reinforcing tape bent at the required angle.

For the final finishing of surfaces, the putty mixture "Finish-paste" is used. It is an easy-to-sand material, intended for applying thin layers over puttied surfaces, it is also used when preparing surfaces for high-quality painting.

Due to the fact that gypsum-fiber sheets do not have thinned edges, the seams between them are sealed without reinforcing tapes using Fugenfüller GV putty, which is also the glue for these sheets.

When facing GVL walls with a surface roughness of up to 20 mm, Perlfix GV adhesives are used, which is applied along the perimeter of the sheets without a gap to avoid the appearance of voids in the seams. This facilitates further sealing of joints.

Frame method of wall cladding

With significant irregularities and deviations of the walls, as well as in rooms with a height of more than 3 m, frame methods of wall cladding with gypsum plasterboard and gypsum board sheets are increasingly being used.

Until recently, sheets were fixed on a frame of wooden bars or on a frame of metal corners. Neither the first nor the second option was reliable: the wooden frame is subject to decay and swelling (shrinkage) in adverse conditions, and the frame made of metal corners is a complex and extremely heavy structure.

However, plasterboard over timber frame cladding is still widely practiced. (Fig. 15). In this case, it is necessary to attach wooden slats with a cross section of at least 50 × 30 mm to the floor and ceiling using dowels or screws. At the same time, they are aligned vertically and along one line by placing wooden bars of the required thickness in the right places. In the gap between the floor and ceiling rails, vertical wooden racks with a section of at least 75 × 25 mm with a step equal to the width of the sheet. Additionally, two or three supporting wooden posts with a cross section of at least 50 × 25 mm are installed between these bearing posts. All installed racks are aligned in the same plane with the floor and ceiling rails.

Rice. 15. Wall cladding on a wooden frame

To improve heat and sound insulation, a layer of glass wool can be laid between the slats.

Then the wooden frame is sheathed with plasterboard sheets using self-tapping screws for wood with a length of at least 30 mm in increments of at least 25 cm. The work is carried out in two mutually perpendicular directions or from the middle to the edges. Between the sheets of drywall there should be a gap of 5 ... 7 mm for subsequent finishing of the seams.

Construction with metal profile frame seems more reliable, because the quality of work is controlled in stages: upon completion of the installation of the frame, then the installation of gypsum boards or gypsum boards and joints. The design is easily sheathed with the second and subsequent layers of sheets (if necessary), the laying of electrical wiring is facilitated and it is not laborious to install a large number of mounting boxes for electrical, television and telephone sockets. The resulting gap between the wall and the cladding can be filled with mineral wool, which is an additional heat and sound insulation.

Products from metal profiles, necessary for technological wall cladding, ceiling and partitions, are produced by the enterprises of the KNAUF industrial group. Profiles manufactured by other domestic enterprises are supplied to the markets.

Metal profiles are produced by cold rolling from galvanized steel strip 0.56…0.6 mm thick.

Rice. 16. Main profiles and their sections

Main types of products (Fig. 16): guide profile (PN), ceiling guide profile (PNP), rack-mount profile (PS), ceiling profile (PP), corner profile (PU). The dimensions of these products are given in tab. 7.

Table 7 Types and sizes of profile products

The frame is assembled from galvanized profiles: racks and rails with obligatory fastening to the wall with brackets (Fig. 17). As vertical racks, a PP ceiling profile is used, which is mounted in tandem with the corresponding PNP guide profile. Brackets are mainly made of straight hangers and are attached to the rack with self-tapping screws. Between themselves, the rack and guide profiles are fixed with a cutter using the “cut-out with a bend” method.

Rice. 17. Frame base assembly

The shelves of the rack profile along the entire length have three longitudinal grooves, while the middle one indicates the junction of the drywall sheets, and the two side ones center the screwed screws. The backs of the profiles have special holes necessary for laying engineering communications inside a wall or partition. These paired holes are located at the ends of the profiles and have a diameter of 33 mm.

The installation technology is as follows. Based on the floor and ceiling, markings are made. The position of the guides, rack profiles, the place of attachment of anchors for installing rack profiles is noted. In order to minimize the distance from the wall, it is advisable to use a narrow ceiling profile PP 60? 27 as racks.

Before installing the guide profiles, they should be glued with a special sealing tape for noise protection of metal frames. It can be a self-adhesive tape "Dichtungsbant" 60 wide and 3 mm thick or any other finely porous polymer film.

Profiles are attached to the floor and ceiling with dowels, the installation step of the dowels is 60 cm. The ceiling guide profile is produced with ready-made holes in the wall with a diameter of 8 mm and in increments of 25 cm. , in other cases, a step of installing racks of 60 cm is allowed (Fig. 18). To improve sound insulation, pieces of sealing tape are placed between the brackets and the wall or other supporting structure.

Rice. 18. Layout of GKL when facing

After that, the ceiling profiles are inserted into the guides and fixed in the hangers. The protruding ends of the suspensions are bent. The correct installation of the ceiling profile must be checked with a level. The length of the racks from the ceiling profile should be 3 ... 5 mm less than the distance between the upper and lower guide profiles. After installing the frame, gypsum boards are attached to it using self-tapping piercing screws with a length of at least 25 mm. Fastening work must be carried out from the corner of the GKL in two mutually perpendicular directions with a step of no more than 25 cm, while avoiding deformation of the sheet. The screws must be spaced from the edge of the sheet at the distances indicated on rice. nineteen.

Rice. 19. Proper fastening of the plasterboard to the rack

Sheets are mounted in a vertical position. If the height of the premises exceeds the length of the sheet, then horizontal segments of the guide profile are installed in the places of horizontal end drains. The end joints of the sheets must be shifted vertically by at least 40 cm. The ends of the GKL must be processed with a peeling planer with a cutting blade angle of 30 ° to a depth of 2/3 of the sheet thickness. GKL docking is performed in a run. In order to avoid the appearance of cracks at the junction, it is not allowed to join sheets on the racks of door or window openings, and additional intermediate profiles are installed at the joints of sheets above the openings (Fig. 20).

Rice. 20. Wall cladding over openings

Between the floor and the GKL there should be a gap of 10 ... 15 mm. A separating tape is glued between the upper edge of the sheets on the lower surface of the concrete floor and a gap of at least 5 mm is left. The gap is filled with putty, the protruding edges of the tape are cut off before the "finish" finish (Fig. 21).

Rice. 21. Pairing wall cladding with overlap

To protect the outer corner from damage, it is better to use the option with fastening with a protective perforated corner PU 31? 31 (fig. 22), which is puttied during the final finishing. In places where they mate with door frames, the sheets should be flush with them and closed with a casing during final finishing.

Rice. 22. Protecting the outer corner with a corner profile

The sealing of the butt joints and the surface of the gypsum plasterboard is carried out according to the previously described technology for the frameless cladding method. Horizontal end seams are made without a reinforcing tape with Uniflot or Fugenfüller GV high-strength putty, it is possible to replace them with similar putties, but with mandatory preparation of the seam. The technology for their implementation is as follows: the edges of the cut sheets are cleaned with a peeling planer, chamfers are removed with an edge planer, all joining edges are sanded with sandpaper. Fixing screws must penetrate the drywall to a depth of at least 1 mm. The seams are treated with a primer, and putty after drying. If necessary, insulating material is placed in the cavity of the frame, after which the frame is sheathed with sheets. In cases where engineering communications are laid along the walls, another set of guide profiles PN 50 (65; 75; 100)? 40 is used and in a pair for each of them the corresponding rack profile PS 50 (65; 75; 100)? 50. This type of cladding resembles a false wall (Fig. 23).

Rice. 23. Fastening rack profiles along communications

Technology preparatory work and installation of facings is the same as the above construction. The only difference is that during installation there is no fastening of the rack profile to the wall with a height of the surface to be lined up to 4.2 m. With a higher height, the fastening of the racks to the wall is mandatory in increments of at least 1.5 m.

GVL is mounted using special screws with a sharper conical head and countersinking strips with a step of no more than 30 cm.

During the operation of the facings, it becomes necessary to attach various attachments or interior items, which often stops customers from making decisions with wall cladding or making partitions from plasterboard sheets.

Rice. 24. Hooks for fastening in plasterboard partitions

In this case, a number of technical measures are envisaged. Depending on the mass of the load (for example, washbasins, kitchen cabinets etc.) during the installation of the frame, jumpers from the rack profile are installed, fixed to the frame, and hinged elements of the interior are attached to the latter. Fastening objects weighing up to 30 kg per 1 linear meter of the wall can be carried out anywhere on the gypsum board using special metal dowels. Light loads, such as cornices or shelves with a load not exceeding 15 kg, are hung directly on drywall sheets using special anchor products, plastic or metal dowels with a diameter of 6 ... 8 mm or hooks (Fig. 24).

From the book Complete apartment renovation. How can a woman handle renovations? author Shtukina Ludmila Vasilievna

Techniques for tiling walls Question. What are the ways of laying tiles? Wall cladding with ceramic tiles starts from the bottom, laying the tiles in horizontal rows. There are several ways to lay tiles: in a run, when in each next

From the book Drywall: Step by Step author Pustovoitov Vadim Nikolaevich

From the book Proper Repair from Floor to Ceiling: A Handbook author Onishchenko Vladimir

From the book Do-it-yourself tiling author Antonov Igor Viktorovich

Envelope cladding features Envelope cladding is a specific type of floor cladding that is used in rooms where the floor is deliberately made with a slope to drain water. In the vast majority of cases we are talking about showers. Particularly should

From book House master author Onishchenko Vladimir

Forms of tiles for wall cladding For wall cladding, tiles of straight and curved shapes are produced. There are ordinary tiles, a frieze, or a rectangular belt, and husk, or corner tiles. Ordinary tiles are ordinary flat tiles designed for cladding

From the book Insulation and waterproofing of houses and apartments author Kolosov Evgeny Viktorovich

The order of wall cladding 1. Preparation of the base and tiles. The technology for preparing the base and tiles for wall cladding is described in the relevant sections of the second chapter. Here we just recall that the tiles are sorted by size and pattern and then laid out dry,

From the book All about tiles [Do-it-yourself laying] author Nikitko Ivan

Features of wall cladding using the seam-to-seam method When facing seam-to-seam in horizontal rows, the tiles are arranged one after another without displacement relative to the tiles of the previous rows. The seams along the entire lined surface form uniform horizontal and vertical

From the author's book

Peculiarities of wall cladding in a staggered way When cladding in a staggered manner, the tiles of the next row are arranged with an offset relative to the tiles of the previous row. The offset is chosen the same: half the width of the tile. The seams of the even rows form their intermittent

From the author's book

Features of diagonal cladding With diagonal cladding, tile joints form a grid of mutually perpendicular lines that intersect the horizontal axis at an angle of 45° (Fig. 12). Figure 12. Diagonal cladding

From the author's book

Features of seamless cladding With seamless cladding, the tiles are adjacent to each other closely. This method is used when the lining is made of corrugated or patterned tiles. To make the seam as less noticeable as possible, the edges of the tiles are sometimes even stitched. How

From the author's book

Repair of surfaces lined with sheets of dry plaster The main disadvantage of surfaces lined with sheets of dry plaster is that there is an empty space between them and the surface with a thickness of 20–30 mm or more. Because of this, the sheets in places

From the author's book

The use of drywall for leveling floors and walls Screeding and plastering are by no means the only ways to prepare the base for laying ceramic tiles. Another very common method, the popularity of which is gradually increasing,

First of all, it is worth reminding you of what a drywall sheet is. This is a multi-layer construction sandwich, in which gypsum plays the role of the filling, and cardboard is the base. Moreover, the latter protects the gypsum from below and from above. Plasterboard work is now considered quite popular, because the material is endowed with a number of positive qualities:

• not dangerous for the environment;
• helps to quickly change the space;
• the design is strong and durable;
• well mounted on any frame;
• there is the possibility of frameless installation;
• superbly lined with finishing materials;
• easy to cut;
• accepts any configuration;
• is inexpensive;
• quickly mounted and dismantled.

Along with the advantages, the material also has disadvantages, but, knowing about them, many troubles can be avoided. A number of disadvantages of drywall:

1. Fragile. During transportation, the sheet must be handled carefully so as not to break it or damage the corners and edges. Having decided to hang any objects on the wall after repair, you should take this into account when installing the frame.
2. Does not tolerate low temperatures well. If it is below +10 degrees Celsius, then it is not recommended to work with the material.
3. Constructions from it reduce the usable area. Their use is rational only in rooms with sufficient space.

If it is necessary to erect a partition, in an office, a guest room, a room for flowers, a brick or wooden wall is not suitable for a number of reasons: the additional load was not taken into account on the foundation, in addition, the construction time will be delayed, costs will increase (the cost of materials, their delivery, the work of specialists ). And the frame made of a metal profile for drywall and the sheet itself are quite light and the installation process does not take much time.

Do not think that drywall can only be used in low-rise cottages. In multi-apartment urban buildings, drywall is one of the most common materials with which you can change the layout and space of the room.

AT apartment buildings during construction, ceiling slabs are mounted, which are designed for a certain load according to the calculations, and an extra load on them can lead to the collapse of the slab. But if you make a drywall partition, then its weight will give minimum load on the floor slab, as opposed to heavier materials such as brick or plaster.

Note that all this is permissible in an ordinary apartment without approvals and project approvals from city and district architectural organizations. This operation will not be considered a major redevelopment. After a couple of years, having decided to make a new repair, you can easily dismantle the partition and come up with something else.

When redevelopment, if you do not break the existing partition of plaster or other material, you can do without official papers. Otherwise, you should contact the BTI (Bureau of Technical Inventory) to obtain permission for legal redevelopment in order to avoid problems and fines in the future. And obtaining a redevelopment permit is associated with the existing load on the foundation of your home, since many residents apartment buildings make redevelopment and thereby increase the load on the foundation and floors.

With technical specifications and the history of the appearance of this building material can be found in the article "".

How to sheathe a concrete or brick wall with drywall

You should know that drywall sheets can be mounted on walls in two ways:

1. With a metal or wooden frame.
2. Frameless method.

Each of the methods is used in certain cases and circumstances. If the base is relatively flat, then plasterboard wall cladding can be done using the frameless method. And if the surface has large differences, then a frame made of a profile for drywall is required. Otherwise, the layer of mounting adhesive will be too thick, which is a violation of technology.

An open concrete or brick surface does not attract everyone with its brutality. Well, except for lovers of the loft style. They adore such minimalism, industrial romance and roughness of the interior.

We will tell you how to fix drywall on uneven walls with your own hands. According to the technology, this process should include 3 stages:

1. Surface preparation.
2. Frame installation.
3. Facing the frame with plasterboard sheets.

It must be remembered that the installation of drywall on the wall should begin even before the installation of clean floors, but already with the wiring of sanitary and electrical systems.

Necessary tools for installation

Each specialist and novice who performs the installation of drywall on the frame must own certain tools:

• plumb line, building level;
• perforator, screwdriver;
• scissors for metal, grinder, you can cutter;
• construction knife;
• pencil;
• cord or fishing line;
• roulette, square.

The metal profile is considered durable and reliable. All parts of domestic production are carried out according to the standards:

More details on the technical characteristics of these elements can be found in the article "".

Mounting a profile for drywall with your own hands is not possible without fasteners. These products meet certain standards:

Finishing the walls with drywall begins with the installation of a frame made of profiles. The place where it will be installed must be free from old cladding that will interfere with the correct execution (wooden panels, planking). To do this, we will clean the wall, the surface of the floor and ceiling adjacent to it. We will pre-cut the profiles according to the required dimensions.

Detailed instructions for mounting the frame for GKL from a metal profile

Let's mark the marks on the floor. This operation is extremely important, the position of your future structure depends on it - its horizontal and vertical position. It is better to double-check yourself several times at the initial stage of marking lines than to dismantle the frame later or even disassemble the lopsided structure. Indeed, along the lines that are marked, a guide profile will be attached, and drywall on it.

Proper markup is essential. The accuracy of the installation of the frame and the evenness of the future structure depend on it.

We find with the help of a 90 ° building square, a wall with the most even corners, or at least one more or less even one. This wall, according to the drawing, will be under No. 1.

Next, mark the lines on the side walls - No. 2 and No. 3. To do this, we use a rule with a built-in level, or, if there is none, you can take any of the profiles and the level. The main thing is that the part is even. We expose the rule on wall No. 2, in the corner “a”, along the vertical level and mark the line on the wall, from ceiling to floor, with a pencil or marker.

When marking, it is necessary to take into account the minimum distance from the wall, taking into account the thickness of the profile 27 x 60, plus one centimeter.

According to the marked line, we transfer the same straight line to the parallel wall No. 3. To do this, use a tape measure, and a pencil or marker.

We measure the distance from wall No. 4 to the mark in the corner "a" on wall No. 2, along the floor, and transfer this size to wall No. 3 in the corner "d", as low as possible to the floor. According to the mark on wall No. 3, we set the rule along the vertical level and draw a line to the ceiling.

Stage number 2 "Installing the frame"

For this stage, you will need a profile 27 x 28 mm, which has the shape of the letter P.

With the back wall of the guide profile, having a size of 27 mm, we apply it to the wall, from the inside of the marked line. Every 500 mm we fasten the profile to dowels or anchor wedges. And so around the perimeter. It is important to know that there must be at least three such connections per profile part.

You can use dowels and anchor - wedges 6 x 40 (where 6 is the thickness and 40 is the length). And the maximum allowable fastening interval between the dowels is at least a meter.

On a profile screwed to the ceiling, with a construction marker or pencil, we make marks every 400 mm - in the case of a reinforced structure (used much more often) or 600 mm - in the case of a non-reinforced one. Using a plumb line, we transfer these marks to the lower profile.

These marks will serve us when attaching the rack profile and straight hangers along this line from top to bottom. A direct suspension is attached along the rack profile every 500 mm for further fastening of the guide profile itself.

To soften the "sound bridges" between the profile and the base, we will lay a sealing tape.

As a result, we got the contour of the future plane with markings for the rack profile and elements of its fastening to a vertical surface. This is the basis of the frame.

Next, we insert the rack profile into the guide profile, according to pre-marked marks and fix the latter with a series of straight hangers. Highly important point at this stage, this is the fastening of the first rack profile. Since we give complete information on how to mount a drywall wall, we cannot miss the following points.

When performing work on mounting the frame on all walls of the room, the question arises: how, after installing the frame on one wall, dock it with another and at the same time get a right angle of 90 °.

The fastening of the guide profile, when you have assembled wall No. 1 and begin to assemble the frame on wall No. 2, occurs in this way.

The guide profile is not attached to the wall, but to the rack-mount profile of the finished frame on wall No. 1. Which during installation should be fixed closer to the corner, so that at this stage there would be no difficulties with fixing the guide profile.

We apply the construction square to the guide profile on the assembled wall frame No. 1 in the corner "a". We visually estimate what degree this corner has from wall No. 2 (on which there is no frame) to the square. If the angle is more than 90 o, then the minimum distance from wall No. 2 to the mark will be in the far corner “b”, and the mark itself on wall No. 3. But if the angle is less than 90 o, then the minimum distance should be measured from the angle "a", and apply the square to the frame on wall No. 1. Now you can proceed with the installation of the guide profile with full confidence that the corners of the room will be even and any furniture purchased will fit into them.

In order for the walls to turn out to be even and have a clear geometry, it is necessary to understand that in the production of work all the described nuances should be observed.

When wall No. 2 was mounted, the first even corner was obtained. In order for a flat rectangular wall to come out, it is necessary to begin the installation of the next wall under No. 3, adjacent to wall No. 1. The marking of this wall is made in this order.

On wall No. 1 in the corner "d" we mark the minimum distance from the wall to the guide profile. We also look at the corner, if it requires it, then we start marking, as in the case of wall No. 2, in a parallel corner, which in this case is the “c” corner. And the wall on which there will be a mark will be wall number 3. We measure the distance from the mark to the frame of the second wall and transfer this size to the parallel corner of the same wall under No. 3. Next, we mount the frame assembly by analogy with the previous walls.

If the correct measurements are made and the marks are correctly transferred, then even frames for three walls with 90° angles are obtained.

The frame on the wall No. 4 is marked out quite easily. On wall No. 2, in the corner "b" we mark the minimum distance on wall No. 2. As elsewhere, we look at the corner. To get an angle of 90 o, in the corner "c" on wall No. 3 we mark the same distance as on wall No. 2. Do not forget to check where you first need to mark the minimum distance. Next, we fix the guide profile and assemble the frame.

Since the rack profiles are mounted at a distance of 400 mm or 600 mm, if you attach a drywall sheet to the profiles and screw it, you can see that the sheet is not attached to anything between the profiles. This is not a solid and not the right design.

Take for example a frame with a 600 mm rack profile fastening step and consider the following work that needs to be done:

1. It is required to cut two pieces of the rack profile 27 x 60, 580 mm each, if the height of the room is 3000 mm.
2. A multiple of the dimensions of the drywall sheet 2500 mm x 1200 mm, taking into account that the drywall joint should be in the middle of the profile, we expose it horizontally between two rack profiles at a height from the floor to the center of the transverse horizontal bar 2500 mm. We fix it to the rack profile with the help of "crabs", in the middle - with the help of a suspension.
3. In the next span between the rack profiles in a checkerboard pattern, I focus on the already installed horizontal crossbars, install them with the help of “crabs” and direct suspensions profiles of 580 mm in size. We make sure that the drywall seams are staggered.

For accuracy, you can check the diagonal. It must match, i.e. angle ac = bd.

Stage number 3 "Installation of drywall on the frame"

We start laying with solid sheets, at this stage things will go quickly, the main thing is to follow the laying technology:

1. We start work from the bottom corner of the largest wall of the room. The pitch between the screws is 250 mm. Fastening from the edge of the transverse end - no closer than 15 mm, and in the longitudinal direction - 10 mm. For ease of use, it is better to fix the sheet at several points.
2. In places of window or doorways we use additional fixation of drywall on an intermediate profile, which we will install in advance along the contour of the window slope.
3. We drown the heads of the self-tapping screws into the sheet by 1 mm, but more than 1.5 mm. After puttying, the recesses on the surface will not be visible.
4. Finishing the walls with drywall implies that there will be no surface deformations on the sheets and joints in the form of creases and torn edges.
5. Next, we will seal the seams, primer, putty, surface grinding and cladding. More details about this set of works can be found in the article "".

If, when laying sheets, a situation arises in which drywall trimmings are used, then during installation, the main thing is that the joints lie exactly on half of the profile. But this will be considered a violation of technology, since there will be a violation of the integrity of the base of the wall, and in the future it will entail cracks, respectively, and unnecessary financial expenses.

How to sheathe a frame house or wooden walls with drywall

Now that you know how to fix drywall to a wall made of solid materials - concrete, brick, blocks on a metal profile - you can find out how this material behaves with walls made of wood.

Finishing a wooden house with drywall has certain advantages:

• saving time;
• absolute symmetry of space;
• hidden wiring;
• the choice of any finishing material you like, although not only wooden houses can boast of such an indicator.

It should be noted that in this situation there are some peculiarities during installation. This fact is due to the mobility of the wooden surface. In a wooden house, until complete shrinkage, it takes from one and a half to three years from the moment of construction. Therefore, it should be borne in mind that when finishing a wooden surface with drywall, a loss of quality is possible if you start ennobling the walls with it without waiting for shrinkage.

Wooden buildings are lined with plasterboard indoors using a frame:

1. From a metal profile.
2. On wooden blocks.

For work you will need:

Regardless of whether noise and heat insulation will be laid or not, it is imperative to make a vapor barrier. Ideally, if it is laid in front of the frame and after it. This procedure serves to isolate the tree from moisture as much as possible.

We pre-treat the surface with a special antiseptic composition so that the tree inside is not damaged by various microorganisms and bacteria. They destroy the wall over time. Only after the surface has completely dried, we install drywall, it is not difficult to do it with your own hands.

To install the frame, we offer comparative characteristics of the metal and wooden frame.

Instructions for installing drywall on a metal frame to wooden walls

Installation should be carried out in such a way that the structure complies with building codes and regulations, withstands its weight and objects that can be hung on the walls: additional accessories, TV, paintings, mirrors. Facing the walls with drywall in a wooden house begins after the installation of the frame, but before that, another very important and responsible process is needed. A metal frame is much more practical, so consider the technology of its device.

Stage number 1 "Marking the walls for the frame"

This stage is described in sufficient detail in a subparagraph of the same article. In short, we perform the following operations.

Let's mark the marks on the floor. Using a 90 o building square, select a wall with the most even corners. On the two walls adjacent to it, we mark the lines using a rule with a level or a profile and a level. We set the tool to a vertical level and mark a line from the ceiling to the floor.

When marking, you need to take into account the minimum distance from the wall surface, taking into account the thickness of the profile and one more centimeter.

The marked line, using a tape measure, is transferred to a parallel wall. Using the vertical level as a rule, draw a line on the wall from floor to ceiling. Next, we connect the lines along the ceiling and floor.

Stage number 2 "Installing the frame"

According to the finished marking, profile guides (27 x 28 mm) can be attached. We apply the back wall to the floor along the line from the inside. With a step of 500 mm, we fix it with a dowel 6 x 40, if the surface is concrete. And since the surface is made of wood, then with wood screws 25 mm, they have a larger thread pitch.

There must be at least three fasteners on the profile per part.

We also attach the guide profile to the ceiling, only on it with a marker (pencil) we make marks every 400 mm - 600 mm (depending on how strong the structure you need). With the help of a plumb line, these marks are transferred to the lower profile. They will be useful to us when attaching rack profiles and suspensions for them.

A direct hanger for drywall is attached along the rack profile every 500 mm to wood screws, for further fastening of the guide profile itself.

We insert the rack profile into the guide and fix it on direct suspensions with self-tapping screws.

It is worth remembering that in this case, rigid fixation is not used, since the tree expands or narrows depending on the season: in summer the heat evaporates moisture from it, and in winter the tree absorbs it and expands.

Such a system makes it possible to successfully sheathe wooden surfaces, taking into account changes in temperature conditions. We screw the self-tapping screw into a wooden surface to a depth of at least 20 mm in increments of not more than 500 mm. Between suspension and wooden wall we will lay a sealing tape to weaken the "sound bridges".

Rack profiles with guides are connected using screws or a cutter. Between the vertical posts we install profiles 57 x 28 in a horizontal position with the same pitch as the rack profiles (400 mm - 600 mm), they act as jumpers.

During installation, we fasten the rack profile at a distance of 500 mm from each other. The optimal distance between the screws is about 150-200 mm. The installation of the rack profile starts from the two extreme racks, if there is a doorway, including from it. Next, we mount ordinary parts. Their vertical position is constantly controlled by the building level.

It must be remembered that drywall and wooden surface have different physical and chemical properties, they should not touch. Therefore, rigid fastening of drywall to wooden wall. And they use a straight suspension for this.

Stage number 3 "Installation of drywall"

Before installing drywall, we will carry out sound, heat, and vapor barrier of the surface. We will also lay communication systems and electrical wiring. The drywall laying technology is identical to the work carried out with the concrete surface, which is described above.

Installation starts from the bottom corner of the largest wall. The pitch between the screws is 250 mm. Fastening from the edge of the transverse end - no closer than 15 mm, longitudinal - 10. Hats enter the sheet by 1 mm, but more than 1.5 mm.

We arrange the sheets in a checkerboard pattern in the same way as in the diagram, at the junction points on one profile, both sheets should go and be attached. In the openings, we use additional fixation of drywall on the intermediate profile, which was installed along the contour of the slope.

After the installation of drywall, we will seal the seams and places where self-tapping screws occur, primer, putty, grind the surface and proceed to the cladding. More detailed information on this set of works can be obtained in the article "".

Fire safety of electrical wiring inside the frame under drywall

The desire of many people to save on electricity installation work leads to disastrous results. This is especially true for wooden structures. Hiring illiterate electricians who don't bother knowing the codes and standards guarantees you big problems. Some unfortunate craftsmen in a wooden house carry out electrification in the same way as in brick buildings. And this is wrong.

There are documents that regulate the methods of laying electrical wiring.

Don't forget about rodents. Illegal home lodgers are curious and taste everything. You should not think that they will not gnaw on electrical wires. Therefore, it is better not to save money and use a material that can withstand even extreme loads with a margin and be too tough for uninvited guests.

Wiring in a wooden house must be done in such a way that, after putting it into operation, remember about it only during the period of planned diagnostics.

Regulatory documents, which detail safe methods for installing electrical wiring in wooden buildings, regulate a fairly strict list of work - time-consuming and expensive. One of the most important of these normative documents is an " Rules for the installation of electrical installations PUE (approved by the Ministry of Energy of the USSR) (6th edition)».

Many neglect them. But you shouldn't do it. Don't skimp on the safety of your loved ones.

How to sheathe adobe walls with drywall

Saman - this construction material consists of a certain part of clay and straw. They didn’t remember about it for a long time, but in our time they started talking - it combines perfectly with the latest technologies and begins to occupy its niche in the modern construction industry.

The surface of adobe is not so smooth, so the question naturally arises: how to level the walls with drywall in such a house. In this case, the method of installing a partition from a metal frame with its subsequent sheathing with sheets of drywall is useful. Since the adobe wall is fragile and the screws will not be fixed there, it is necessary to work with the floor and ceiling.

According to technological process, there are four steps to be taken:

1. Prepare accessories for the frame.
2. Install them.
3. Make a vapor barrier.
4. Sheathe the frame with drywall sheets.

The first stage includes the process of preparing frame parts. For work, you will need metal profile parts (rails and racks), suspensions and fasteners. More details about these products and their characteristics can be found in the article "".

You will also need tools:

• building level, plumb line, hydraulic level, chopping cord;
• perforator, screwdriver;
• electric scissors, metal shears, grinder;
• construction knife;
• pencil or marker, square;
• cutter;
• roulette.

You must first cut the profiles to length. The height of the rack profile is equal to the distance from the floor to the ceiling, you can still remove five millimeters. The length of the guide profile depends on the length of the wall on which the frame is to be installed. The process itself consists of the stages of marking, mounting the frame and laying drywall sheets.

Marking the base for mounting guide profiles

Marking is considered one of the main points when installing the frame. It is described in sufficient detail and shown in this article in the section (in the subparagraph of the same name).

In a house with adobe walls, we find a wall with the most even corners. To do this, we use a 90 o square.

Now we need to mark the lines on the nearby walls.

Using a building rule with a built-in level or any profile and level, we draw a line from ceiling to floor. To do this, set the rule to the vertical level.

When marking, you should take into account the minimum distance from the wall, the thickness of the profile 27 x 60 and one more centimeter.

According to this line, we transfer the same straight line to a parallel wall. We do this with a tape measure and a pencil. We measure the distance from the far wall to the mark and transfer it to a parallel wall. Having applied the construction rule to the received mark, we draw a line from the ceiling to the floor along the vertical level. Then we connect the lines along the ceiling and along the floor. We have a ready-made markup on which you can attach the profile guides.

Mounting the frame for drywall

Next, we attach the guide profile (28 × 27) to the floor. To do this, we will attach its back (27 mm) to the marked line and attach it with dowels in increments of at least 1000 mm, there must be at least three such fasteners per guide profile. The hole for the dowel is drilled with a puncher. But if the floor is wooden, you need to fix it with self-tapping screws.

Then, along the marked line on the ceiling, we drill the profile. Dowels should enter the concrete base by 10 mm, and self-tapping screws into the wooden base by 20 mm.

In the grooves of the horizontal profiles, we alternately install the prepared rack profiles (60 × 27). Their step is no more than 400 mm. The vertical of each rack profile is strictly checked by the building level. We connect the parts together with self-tapping screws or with the help of a cutter.

To give rigidity to the frame, we will strengthen it with additional horizontal bridges between the vertical posts. The step between them can be 400 - 600 mm . Thus, subject to the dimensions of 600 mm between the rack profiles, there will be 3 profiles per sheet vertically, and 4 profiles per 400 mm interval per one GKL.

In houses with adobe walls, vapor barrier and insulation are required. As the latter, experts most often recommend mineral wool. This material will also serve as a good sound insulator.

Installation of drywall sheets on the frame

Given the specifics of the adobe base, it is desirable to use moisture-resistant drywall in the work. This work can be done alone, but since the whole sheet weighs 25 kg and has a large size (2500 x 1200 x12.5), it is better to use outside help. First, we fix the sheet in 2-3 places with self-tapping screws.

We begin the work on facing the frame with solid sheets from the corner of the room or doorway. We install drywall vertically, press it to the racks of the frame. The pitch between the screws is 250 mm, the fastening from the transverse end is no closer than 15 mm, the longitudinal end is 10 mm, at a distance of 60 mm from the ceiling.

We screw the screws on adjacent sheets with an offset of 1 - 2 cm from each other.

The self-tapping screw enters the sheet by 1 mm. If the depth is greater, then the sheet will break, and not twisted - it will stick out during finishing, it will have to be twisted or a larger layer of putty should be applied when finishing work. In addition, rust protrudes from the caps of self-tapping screws on such a surface over time. If you have light wallpaper, then brown spots are unlikely to decorate the interior. Such an oversight will certainly lead to additional cash spending.

When the installation of whole sheets has been completed, we fill in the places not covered by drywall. By analogy with the above works.

The device of smooth walls made of drywall on mounting glue (without a frame)

There are circumstances in which leveling the walls with drywall using a metal frame is impractical. If the room already has small dimensions, then reducing it around the perimeter by a few centimeters will further reduce the space. It is in such cases that the installation of GKL on glue is used.

This technology provides an opportunity to quickly and cost-effectively prepare the walls for finishing. And most importantly, the loss of the desired usable area will be minimal.

You can glue drywall on concrete, plastered or brick surfaces. But they do this when the probable deviation from the vertical is within 30 mm per meter of the wall in height. Tools and equipment are required for work.

Drywall sticker on the surface

This process does not seem complicated, but it requires strict implementation of the work production technology:

1. First of all, we make an audit of the existing foundation. Using a plumb line or level, check the dimensions of the irregularities.
2. We will free the surface from the old lining, remove large irregularities, and fill deep cracks with putty or cement-sand mortar. The paint must be removed with particular care.
3. The surface will be treated with a primer.
4. We cut drywall sheets to the required dimensions. Remember that there should be 8 - 10 mm of free space between the floor and the sheet. It is necessary that air freely flows to the polymerizing adhesive.
5. We put several rails, trimmings or wedges 8-10 mm thick on the floor against the wall. It is on them that drywall will rely.
6. We lay the sheet on a flat surface, closer to the wall, and apply an adhesive to it. This is done in two ways: with a notched trowel along the perimeter of the sheet and then in the center with a thin layer or by spot application over the entire surface of the sheet. In the second case, the technology occurs in the following way. We make preliminary markings on the walls so that the drywall sheets are located in the same plane when sticking. Draw a straight line on the floor and ceiling at a certain distance. It is she who will be the guideline for installation work. We apply glue around the perimeter of the drywall and in the center with a trowel, in small piles, after about 200 - 250 mm. The diameter of each slide is about 100 mm, and the height of 200 - 250 mm. We lay out the mounds for the rest, but the distance between them will already be 300 - 400 mm. In areas where drywall adjoins openings, window sills, where it will be glued tile or equipment is suspended, the adhesive composition is applied to the entire surface of the sheet.
7. We apply a sheet to the wall - starting from the corner of the room. Then we move around the perimeter. We press the sheet a little, then mark the protruding sections according to the level and, pressing them slightly, align the sheet. This checks the visual vertical and horizontal position of the drywall. But its exact position is fixed by the building level.
8. Sheet alignment can be done with light punches or rubber mallet. Just do it carefully so that the drywall does not break in places where there is no glue.

You can use dowel-nails for additional fixation of the material in the position you specified. After completion, we wait two to three days. There should not be a sharp change in the temperature regime in the room. The materials at hand on which the drywall was held are removed from under the sheets, and the remaining cracks are putty together with the seams.
Foreign and domestic specialized companies offer big choice adhesives, before starting work, check the scope of their application in the instructions. Each type has certain characteristics, installation methods and drying times.

It is best to use a board or bar for leveling. You can hit them with more force, without fear that the drywall will be damaged, and the area of ​​\u200b\u200bsuch a base is much larger than that of a hammer. Window, as well as a doorway made of drywall, when sheathed, glue close to the slopes or cut off along a plumb line.

Now that you know how to assemble components, install metal profiles and how to sheathe walls with drywall using a frameless method and using a frame, you can familiarize yourself with the technology for installing partitions in a room.

Construction of interior partitions

There are many reasons why we need room dividers. Someone did not like the large room and there was a desire to retire in their own office. And someone wants to zone the space. There are many mobile partitions: glass, plastic, portable. But in my apartment I want something solid. So that in a separate room it was quiet and warm. You can build a wall of brick or gas silicate. But this process will be delayed for a long time, it will require large financial expenses, forces and nerves. And most importantly, you do not know if the interfloor ceiling will withstand.

In these situations, drywall partitions help us out. They combine the properties of lungs and capital structures have a number of advantages:

• economically more profitable;
• have a small weight;
• the erection method excludes "wet" processes;
• installation is fast;
• it is possible to implement multivariant architectural solutions;
• a variety of lining, secret laying of engineering communications and electrical wiring is allowed;
• it is possible to improve heat, sound insulation and indoor climate.

Tools and fixtures for the construction of interior partitions from drywall

We need the following tools to work with drywall and metal profiles:

1. Roulette.
2. Level.
3. Plumb.
4. Square, ruler.
5. Construction knife.
6. Pencil or marker.
7. Scissors for metal, grinder.
8. A cutter, but not necessarily.
9. Screwdriver, perforator.

A plasterboard partition is an original design that can be given any configuration, lined with the material that you like more than others.

A do-it-yourself plasterboard partition must comply with all the rules, because their failure to comply can lead to the destruction of the structure, damage to property and damage.

Consider the device of a plasterboard partition with your own hands, the design is a single metal frame, which is sheathed on both sides with one layer. For more solid fencing, the frame is sheathed with drywall in two layers.

The step-by-step instruction begins with the installation of profiles. This technology we will analyze using the example of the Knauf integrated system. This manufacturer offers the consumer not only high-quality products, but also properly developed methods that guarantee you a long service life of the structure.

Partitions assembled in this way are not non-load-bearing structures, they serve as internal enclosing lightweight structures in residential and industrial buildings. They are designed for rooms with normal humidity ( SNiP 23-02-2003) and not very high.

The main elements are:

• drywall;
• metal profiles (guides and rack);
• fasteners.

It is better to install partitions during the period when the room passes finishing stage work - before laying clean floors and when the wiring of plumbing and electrical systems has already been completed. The location of the latter in the cavity of the frame should take place in such a way that the sharp edges of the metal profiles and screws do not damage their integrity.

In rooms where there is high humidity, you need to install moisture-resistant drywall, and cover the places where water will get in with waterproofing.

Technical characteristics of the partition

In the table below, you can see the height of the partition, depending on the modification of the rack profile with a single frame and sheathing with drywall sheets in one layer.

Frame installation

The installation of the frame must be approached with full responsibility. After all, it is he who becomes the supporting part for drywall sheets, forms a rigid basis for them and is attached around the perimeter to building structures.

The entire workflow consists of the following stages:

1. Marking is considered one of the main points when installing the frame. Accuracy on this stage is important, since the deviation will give a slope to the partition, and this cannot be allowed. For marking you will need a level, cord, ruler, tape measure and plumb line. First, determine the place where the partition will be mounted. We make markings on the floor, using a laser level or a cord, we draw a straight line. The same must be done on the wall and on the ceiling, for this we use a plumb line or level.
2. Next, we fasten the guide profile 50 to the floor with screws K 6/35. To do this, we apply the profile to the marked line and mount it with a dowel (1000 mm pitch), at least three fasteners per product. Then we install a profile on the ceiling along the marked line.
3. We install the prepared rack 50 x 50 from the side of the wall into the grooves of the guide profile and drill it to it with TN25 self-tapping screws.
4. Now it is necessary to note the location of the vertical racks. Step - 400 mm. We prepare the number of rack profiles we need. To do this, mark the desired height and cut off from the product with scissors for metal. Paste received vertical racks into the guides on the floor and ceiling of the profile according to the marks. We fix the rack profile on the lower rails with the help of self-tapping screws, using the level, we check its vertical position. Next, we connect the profiles up with self-tapping screws or a cutter. When a doorway is provided in the partition, then between the rack profiles that frame it, we install an additional jumper. We bend the profile cut to size in the shape of the letter "P" and install it in the opening. Using a tape measure and a level, we check its correct position and connect it with self-tapping screws to the rack profile.

You can strengthen the profile in the opening with the help of wooden bars. Their size must correspond to the size of the internal opening of the profile. The beam is inserted inside the rack profile and screwed with self-tapping screws in increments of 500 - 600 mm along the side shelves.

Installation of drywall on the frame of the interior partition

Now the frame should close the drywall, do-it-yourself installation of this material is not difficult to make. To get a full-fledged partition, you must first veneer only one side of it. We will carry out the following operations:

1. We start work from any corner or from the opening. Let's bring a whole sheet and fix it at 2 - 3 points. Using a screwdriver, we fasten the sheet to the frame with screws with a pitch of 250 mm, from the transverse end - no closer than 15 mm, from the longitudinal end - 10 mm.
2. If the length of the sheet was not enough in height, we cut off a piece from the new one right size and attach it to the frame. How to do this correctly can be found in the article "". Now the fastening of the sheets will take place in a checkerboard pattern.
3. When joining sheets in height, the seams should not merge into one longitudinal line. They are laid apart or with a shift of at least 400 - 600 mm. Long joints are the most likely places for cracks to occur. The gap between the floor and the lower edge of the sheet should be 10 - 15 mm.
4. When sheathing a partition in two layers of drywall, vertical seams should also be shifted. GKL, located on top, must be installed so that the seam of the bottom falls on its middle (shift by half the width - 60 cm).
5. On adjacent sheets, fasteners should be located with an offset of 1 - 2 cm. At a right angle, the screw is screwed into the sheet by 1 - 1.5 mm. If the distance is greater, then the drywall will crack, because it is a rather fragile material.
6. When one of the sides of the partition is covered with drywall, you can place inside the frame engineering systems and electrical wiring.
7. Further, in the space between the racks we place insulating material. If it is a separate room, then extraneous noise should not enter it. What materials to produce soundproofing of such structures can be found in the article "".
8. Now you can veneer the second side of the partition and proceed to the finishing work.

As you can see, do-it-yourself work with drywall is not so difficult - the walls of houses that are made of brick, concrete, adobe or wood can be lined with drywall. There are slight differences in technology, but you are now aware of them. So you can independently make repairs and live in the interior that you like.