home floors

Installation of fittings for a flush tank. Fittings of the toilet cistern: how the drain device is arranged and works. Self-installation of fittings

For a comfortable atmosphere in the house, it is necessary that the plumbing work smoothly. At the same time, I would like to note that the sewerage system and the toilet bowl, which are its components, play an important role. In turn, in order for the toilet to work well, you need to pay attention to its technological features, its design, as well as the condition of the fittings.

What types can be

Before deciding how to choose fittings for the toilet, let's try to understand what should be understood by the word "fittings". This word should be understood as all the constituent elements that are aimed at ensuring the operation of plumbing, it includes, including the toilet.

In accordance with the functions performed, several of the following types can be distinguished:

fittings that block the flow of water after the tank is filled;
fittings that ensure the descent of the liquid.

Each of the species constitutes separate mechanisms, which, nevertheless, are closely related to each other. The latter circumstance leads to the fact that if one of them breaks down, the second one also stops working.

How is the tank filled

The function of filling the tank, as already described earlier, is assigned to the mechanism in question. Let's highlight its main details. So, the shut-off system is a combination of shut-off valves, levers, a float and supply fittings.

Several levers usually form a single set of metal or plastic parts connected to the float. For the manufacture of the latter, foam or a hollow plastic cylinder is usually used, it is designed to regulate the water level in the drain tank and determine when the tank will be filled.

At the same time, all shut-off valves works as follows. First, the liquid fills the drain tank. In this case, the float rises to a certain limit.

As already described earlier, the float and levers are connected, therefore, when the float reaches a certain limit, the lever acts on a valve specially installed for constipation, the water flow is blocked.

It is also possible to highlight different types fittings according to the location of the liquid supply. So, water, in the presence of fittings for a toilet bowl with a side supply, can flow from the side, while the plumbing is located, as a rule, from above.

With this arrangement, water is usually collected with great noise. The least noise is created by the water supply from below. Also, water can be supplied from above, but this is a rather rare design.

Thus, fittings for a toilet bowl with a bottom connection seem to be the most preferable.

How is draining

Let's consider the principle of operation of the fittings that provide the descent of water. The components of such reinforcement will be:

hole for descent, having a certain angle of inclination;
an overflow tube is required;
the system does not do without a cover for the valve and gum
an important part should also be considered the drain button and the system of mechanisms that ensure its operation.

At the same time, there are several systems that differ in design. So, there is a full drain system with a button; a system that has two modes of draining water, provided with a special function - you can interrupt the descent of the liquid.

In the latter case, an analogue of a key is used, releasing either water completely or partially. As a separate item, I would like to highlight the rod fittings used for the toilet, acting on the basis of the rod.

There are three types of float valves. These are piston operated valves equipped with a special lever. "Croydon" - such a mechanism was used earlier, in modern toilets, as a rule, it has been replaced by another. A valve based on a silicone or rubber membrane that replaces the gasket.

It should be added that if the float fails, the entire locking system will have to be changed completely.

When choosing fittings for the toilet, pay attention to the choice of high-quality, durable plastic parts so that the fittings are resistant to overheating and cooling, withstand mechanical stress.

The diaphragm valve must be selected taking into account the fact that salt-rich water with impurities quickly disables the diaphragm. It is also recommended to choose goods of a good brand in order to exclude the presence of marriage. It is also useful to familiarize yourself with the photo of the fittings for the toilet bowl before buying.

What to do in case of breakdown

If problems arise during the operation of plumbing, then to eliminate them, it is worth adhering to some algorithm. To begin with, find out the causes of the breakdown, adjust the level of water consumption, replace worn parts.

Then you should clean the channels, as well as parts of the system from plaque and dirt. In case of serious damage, you should contact a specialist.

Photo fittings for the toilet

The first task after installing the toilet in place and connecting it to the sewer system is to install the cistern fittings. From correct installation and the quality regulation of this plumbing equipment will depend on the smooth operation of the entire system. The fittings of the drain tank is a device that provides filling it with water after emptying during draining, automatic regulation of the amount of drained water and control of its overflow. How to properly install the tank fittings, read our article.

Drain tank valve device

The fittings for the toilet cistern consists of the following components:

located at an angle of the drain;
an overflow pipe installed on the side of the drain hole;
valve covers with rubber;
tank filling mechanism;
drain button mechanism.

Before you set up the toilet fittings, consider its main components.

Tank filling mechanism

This device ensures that the toilet bowl is filled with water to a certain level. This mechanism includes:

float fixture;
stop valve.

A float attached to a metal or plastic lever moves up or down as the water level in the tank changes. When filling the tank with water, the float rises, reaching the maximum level. The lever connected to it closes the shut-off valve, and water does not enter the tank from the plumbing system. When draining the water, the float lowers, the lever opens the access of water from the pipe to the toilet bowl.

Water drain mechanism (bleed mechanism)

The flush mechanism is designed to access water from the tank directly into the toilet. Components of the descent mechanism:

drain siphon;
release lever (handle).

The siphon hermetically closes the drain hole, preventing water leakage. There are several types of siphons. The simplest type of drain siphon is the familiar "pear" - a rubber cylinder, similar in shape to a plunger. The device for draining water into the toilet bowl (raising the “pear”) most often is either a lever located on the side of the tank, or a handle on the lid, which must be pulled up to flush the water. More modern version descender - a button that is located on the front wall of the tank. Such a mechanism is most often installed on tanks that are built into the wall.

Installation and adjustment of fittings

After installing the toilet bowl in the allotted place and then connecting the toilet bowl to the sewerage system, the next step is to install the cistern fittings: the video, offered as a small instruction, will help to carry out this work correctly.

Installation of toilet cistern fittings

Let's consider the installation technology of the fittings of the toilet bowl:

Put a rubber gasket on the drain mechanism.
Install the mechanism in the tank, fasten with a plastic nut.
Put plastic or iron (depending on configuration) washers and rubber gaskets on the fixing bolts. Insert screws into holes. On the other hand, put on a plastic washer and tighten the nut.
Slide a rubber o-ring over the plastic nut. If a new ring is used, sealing is not required. If a ring that has already been in use was used, all joints should be thoroughly lubricated with sealant.

Pro tip: Careful inspection of all structural details can reveal minor casting defects. In this case, you will also need to use a sealant. The installation site of the sealing ring must also be smeared with a layer of sealant, having previously cleaned it.

Install the cistern on the toilet seat and secure it with nuts.
Attach the filling mechanism. Attach the sleeve from the water pipe.
Put the tank cap back in place. Screw on the drain button.

Pro tip: Nothing should be additionally wound on the thread of the mounted mechanism to drain the water when putting on the sleeve. Try not to skew, so as not to strip the threads and spoil the part.

Armature adjustment

Installing a toilet and cistern should not cause much difficulty. But in some cases it may be necessary additional setting toilet fittings. So, to adjust the height of the drain valve:

Disconnect the rod from the overflow pipe.
Press out the cup retainer.
Move up or down the rack.

The water level in the barrel is adjusted as follows:

Adjust the position of the glass - raise or lower it along the guide, leaving a distance from the top of the glass to the upper edge of the tank at least 45 mm.
Install the overflow pipe 20 mm above the maximum water level and 70 mm below the top level of the rack.

To adjust the small flush, the small flush float must be moved up or down relative to the overflow tube. How to set up a full flush? Move the shutter (up or down) relative to the glass.

Adjusting the toilet fittings for full or low flush implies that moving the float or damper down increases the flow of drained water.

Complies with the requirements of TU 4953-001-02903999-2014
AB 69.57.55.3

Purpose of the product

It is intended for filling a flush tank (popularly a drain tank) with water and supplying it for flushing into the toilet.

Security measures

The materials used for the manufacture of fittings, under operating conditions, do not emit into environment harmful substances and do not have a harmful effect on the human body in direct contact. Working with fittings does not require special precautions.

Specifications

Operating pressure range, MPa 0.05 - 1
Tank filling time in the volume of 6.0 l, no more than 2.5 min
Level stability: change in water level when pressure changes by 0.1 MPa, no more, mm 5.0
The diameter of the hole in the lid of the tank, 38 ... 44 mm
Installed resource, not less than 150.0 thousand cycles
Connection size G1/2-B
Product weight, no more than 0.62 kg

Completeness

Fittings kit includes:

Product storage and care

The fittings should be stored in a packaged form in dry enclosed spaces at a distance of at least 0.6 m from heating appliances.

It is not allowed to use detergents, which include abrasive, acid-alkali-containing substances, organic solvents.

Manufacturer's Warranty

Guaranteed service life of valves - five years from the date of commissioning, but not more than six years from the date of issue. Service life of valves - 6 years.

The product warranty does not apply if:

its mechanical damage;
installations in violation of the requirements of this manual;
improper maintenance during operation:
non-compliance of water with the technical requirements of GOST 2761-84.

To increase the reliability and durability of the fittings, it is recommended to additionally install a filter in the water supply network.

Reinforcement installation

The fittings are delivered assembled, complete and configured for a specific type of tank

After installing the fittings, do not allow the moving parts of the valves to touch each other and the walls of the tank.

When connecting the water hose to the inlet valve, hold the valve from turning.

To avoid leakage from under the gasket, tighten the fixing wing nuts evenly on both sides.

Check that there is a gap of 3 - 19 mm between the tank cap and the button assembly, inserted all the way into the thread of the exhaust valve (without screwing in).

For reliable centering of the threads, before screwing in, make 1 - 2 turns counterclockwise until a characteristic click, which will show that the thread has “sat down” in its place.

If the distance between the reservoir cap and the button assembly is beyond
limits 3 ... 19 mm, it is necessary to adjust the outlet valve in height
(see fig. 2 and the table for adjusting the height of the reinforcement), Disconnect the rod 23 from
overflow body 12. Squeeze cup latches 10 and move
racks 6 up and down achieve a gap of 3 ... 19 mm.

Attach the rod to the overflow body.

To adjust the water level in the tank
disconnect the rod 2 (see Fig. 1), move
float up or down and reattach
drawn to him. Minimum distance between
water level and the upper edge of the tank 45 mm.

After adjusting the water level in the tank, adjust the overflow pipe 7
(see Fig.2). To do this, unscrew the bayonet cover 9 and move the pipe
overflow to a position at which the risk on the pipe corresponds to the level
water in the tank. Tighten the bayonet cap.

* For long stem fittings
** when setting to this division, remove the overflow pipe 7

Rebar height setting table

Rack scale division	Height H, mm	Rack scale division	Height H, mm
M**	285-304	15	360-379
1	290-309	16	365-384
2	295-314	17	370-389
3	300-319	18	375-394
4	305-324	19	380-399
5	310-329	20	385-404
6	315-334	21	390-409
7	320-339	22	395-414
8	325-344	23	400-419
9	330-349	24*	405-424
10	335-354	25*	410-429
11	340-359	26*	415-434
12	345-364	27*	420-439
13	350-369	28*	425-444
14	355-374	29*	430-449

Possible malfunctions and ways to eliminate them

Fault name	Probable Cause	Remedy

Valve does not close
Valve does not open	Clogged hole in slider assembly 5 - guide 3	Disconnect the guide 3 and wash the assembly with the slider
Slow tank filling	Clogged filter 11	Unscrew the water supply hose, remove the filter 11 from the housing 8 and rinse

Water is leaking into the toilet	Incorrectly installed bottom valve 13 on the overflow body 12	Adjust landing bottom! valve 13 on the overflow body 12 J by turning around the axis
	Loose nut 21	Tighten nut 21
	Overflow pipe set incorrectly 7	adjust
	Rod set incorrectly 23	adjust

NOTE: Due to the presence of various impurities in the water, the performance of the outlet valve may deteriorate over time due to sedimentation on its parts. In this case, it is necessary to disconnect the valve from the seat, flush it and reinstall it.

Valve drawings

Inlet valve (bottom connection) | Rice. one

Release valve | Rice. 2

Fittings for drain tank | Video instruction

Video provided by uklad.net
To write the article, I used the instructions that come with the fittings with the tank.

I also offer you:

Mounting the toilet lid | Video instruction

The video provides extensive instructions for assembling and installing toilet seats.
With plastic adjustable, with plastic non-adjustable fasteners, microlift and metal fasteners.
I wish you successful installation!

Regardless of the model and brand of the toilet cistern, the fundamental purpose of the cistern shut-off valves is unchanged:

open the water supply if it is empty;
turn off the water when filling it.

The cistern fitting kit consists of the following items:

drain mechanism (it includes a siphon with a lid and a sealed gasket between the drain pipe and the tank);
jet adjustment lever (connected to the water pipe by means of a ball valve);
float (adjusts the filling level of the tank). Connected to the drain mechanism with a spoke.

The design of the mechanisms for draining and filling the tank depends on the type of installation.

Type 1- a tank suspended high above the toilet. This type is familiar to almost every inhabitant of our country. Not too pretentious in appearance, it nevertheless has undeniable advantages:

simplicity of design (which makes it easy to repair it on your own);
the high speed with which the flow of ode rushes from a height into the toilet bowl.

Type 2- a drain tank installed on the toilet shelf. Most modern apartments and public institutions use this type of device.

Type 3- a tank built into the wall. It looks more like a thick-walled polyethylene canister.

All manipulations to replace the fittings of such a tank are performed through the hole in the drain button.

In order to successfully install a toilet or bidet, you need to know what it should be, this is necessary so that the pipes do not clog and wear out ahead of time. The most important and up-to-date information.

If the toilet "does not flow", then the water consumption is minimal. However, in addition to paying for water, it is necessary to check water meters regularly. About the cost, conditions and frequency of this procedure, there are many useful tips how to save on checking meters!

Drainer mechanism ^

It is hardly necessary to consider in our time the installation of drain fittings for suspended structures: they have long lost their relevance.

Therefore, in the future we will only talk about the valves of the most common types - cisterns installed directly on the toilet bowls.

According to the method of actuating the drain device, the mechanisms are divided into two groups:

exhaust (rod). In order to activate the device of this group, it is necessary to raise the top of the rod that locks the drain hole with the handle.
In modern models of tanks, such a mechanism is practically not found. It was preserved only in fairly old models;
push (button). The mechanisms of this group are divided, in turn, into two subgroups:

Croydon valve. It consists of a body, an axis of the float lever, a piston and a seat. The float arm drives the piston.
The piston movement in Croydon valves is vertical. This design is installed in old-style tanks.
piston valve. In this design, the axis of the float lever is fixed in a cotter pin, split in two.
Moving, the lever causes the piston to move in a horizontal direction. The piston, in contact periodically with the saddle, regulates the flow of water into the tank.

A gasket is mounted at the end of the piston, which blocks the water flow at the moment the piston presses on the seat. Tanks with piston valves are in many Russian apartments.
diaphragm valve. In this type of design, a membrane (rubber or silicone) is installed instead of a piston gasket.
The plastic piston, moving under the action of a lever, also moves the membrane. It blocks the water inlet. The diaphragm valve is the latest advancement in cistern production.

In addition to plumbing, water can be used for additional space heating. AT recent times warm water floors are gaining popularity, creating an optimal microclimate in the apartment. Read about how this can be organized in the article, this is not such an expensive pleasure, but the benefits of keeping your feet constantly warm are undeniable!

Summer water outages are not terrible if you have a water heater. One of the most popular companies in Russia is the Termex company, read about its water heaters with a capacity of 80 liters or more, let it always be comfortable in your home.

Tank filling method ^

The tank can be filled in two ways:

through the side water supply;
through the bottom water supply.

The cistern with side inlet fills with water noisily while at the bottom supply, water fills the tank almost silently.

But many manufacturers began to supplement the fittings of the tank with a side supply with a drain pipe. It is made of soft plastic and sends a jet of water to the lower area of the tank.

Thanks to this addition, drain cisterns with a lateral supply have ceased to make noise.

In what cases does the question arise about the replacement of reinforcement ^

Drain cisterns entering retail chains, as a rule, are equipped with the necessary set of fittings.

And the majority of users are not interested in what mechanisms ensure the normal functioning of the device.

But time passes, and the tank ceases to cope with its task. It is at this moment that the user has to get acquainted with his device, solve the problem of acquiring spare parts.

Moreover, the problem is not that they are difficult to buy, but how to buy a quality product.

The quality of the cistern fittings plays a huge role in its normal operation.

It is faulty mechanisms that cause various problems. For example, water begins to seep into the toilet bowl, which is why the snow-white surface of the toilet bowl covered with red streaks.

For more information about the types, cost, sizes of toilets and bidets, what is typical, installation methods and selection tips, read only on our website.

Sewer pipes require periodic cleaning. About cleaning methods, cost, special devices for this procedure and much more, let your sewer system function as it should.

Or the flushing mechanism ceases to control the volume of flushed water. Such troubles can occur for various reasons, but the most common ones are as follows:

low quality of plastic elements of mechanisms leads to their distortion. A too sharp drop in water temperature can give the same effect, even if high-quality fittings are installed in the tank;
many import production mechanisms(they use diaphragm float valves) can't stand the quality of our water: rigid, having a large number of impurities (such as chlorine). For guard imported equipment sometimes has to be installed coarse and fine filters at the entrance water pipe to the apartment;
when using low quality materials for the manufacture of cistern fittings, it is subjected to premature aging and abrasion.

So, in what cases does it become necessary to replace the fittings:

continuous flow of water into the tank. Such an "accident" can happen due to a misalignment of the float lever.
But if nothing has changed after adjusting it, then the float is damaged: it lets water in, becomes heavier from this and sinks to the bottom. In this case, you will have to purchase a new float.

It costs quite a bit - just about 4 rubles. But in practice, in the event of a float failure change the entire float valve. This node costs an average 200 - 300 rubles.
Continuous flow of water into the toilet. There is only one reason for this - the membrane of the drain tank siphon is damaged. In this case, there is only one way out: replacing the membrane.

The cost of this element depends on the method of its manufacture:

stamped membranes stand 6 rubles;
molded with vulcanization 30 rubles.

Many users often think: is it worth replacing individual elements of tank fittings?

After all, if the mechanism begins to wear out, then one breakdown will be followed by others. It is safer to replace the entire set of fittings.

In addition, it is very difficult to find, say, a membrane or a float for an imported cistern. BUT replacing a part with a "non-native" one often does not lead to the expected result.

If you decide to replace the valve set in the cistern. Ask price ^

The cost of a set of fittings for a Polish-made Cersanit tank with a lower water supply is 650 rubles. The kit includes:

outlet valve;
filling valve;
ring sealing;
fitting plastic BAS 24;
button and sleeve are metallized.

Fittings for the Vidima cistern 1250 rubles. But for products of this brand membrane can be ordered separately. It will cost in 300 rubles.

Hybner cistern outlet with stop function 1800 rubles.

The drain valve of a tank of the Spanish production of Jika costs 2800 rubles. The product is available in two versions:

button height is short;
button height increased.

The Jika flush valve can be used in the ROCA and JIKA flush cisterns of the collections:

dama senso;
victoria;
vega etc.

Reinforcement of domestic production is much cheaper. For example, armature "way"(produced in Pskov) will cost the buyer from 250 to 340 rubles.

Moreover, the manufacturer claims that all plastic elements are made from virgin polypropylene, and shut-off valves are produced with the addition of natural rubber.

Interesting options are offered by the Ryazan company Center for Heating Equipment and Plumbing. They produce fittings brand "RBM" with three types of valves:

direct action;
membrane;
backpressure.

They can be used in tanks with both side and bottom water supply. They have models with stock and push-button start mechanisms.

Universal Design:

with rod mechanism from 99 rubles;
with diaphragm backpressure valve (push-button) from 205 rubles.

Well drilling technology for water, the cost of this procedure

Cost, types, features of installing a caisson for a well

11 responses to the article“ What you need to know about fittings for the toilet cistern: characteristics, firms, prices”

Oksana
It’s even strange that a cistern suspended high above the toilet is out of fashion now, yet it seems that it really is the most efficient, after all, the speed of the water flow is quite an important factor. I even wanted to do this at home, I will have to find out if it is possible to do this now, otherwise I was recently in a plumbing store, but I didn’t see something like that.
Anna
I really like the hidden toilet barrels that are built into the hay. Only one button is visible on the face. Unfortunately, such a system is very expensive, and not everyone can afford it. Recently, I began to think about the economy of the toilet bowl drain barrel. Today it is very actual question for all. Are there systems that allow you to save water?

Fittings for a drain tank with a lower water supply. Installation and operating instructions

Complies with the requirements of TU 4953-001-02903999-2014

Purpose of the product

The cistern fittings are designed to fill the cistern (popularly a cistern) with water and supply it to the toilet for flushing.

Security measures

The materials used for the manufacture of fittings do not emit harmful substances into the environment under operating conditions and do not have a harmful effect on the human body in direct contact. Working with fittings does not require special precautions.

Specifications

Operating pressure range, MPa 0.05 - 1
Tank filling time in the volume of 6.0 l, no more than 2.5 min
Level stability: change in water level when pressure changes by 0.1 MPa, no more, mm 5.0
The diameter of the hole in the lid of the tank, 38 ... 44 mm
Installed resource, not less than 150.0 thousand cycles
Connection size G1/2-B
Product weight, no more than 0.62 kg

Completeness

Fittings kit includes:

Product storage and care

The fittings should be stored in a packaged form in dry enclosed spaces at a distance of at least 0.6 m from heating appliances.

It is not allowed to use detergents, which include abrasive, acid-alkali-containing substances, organic solvents.

Manufacturer's Warranty

Guaranteed service life of valves - five years from the date of commissioning, but not more than six years from the date of issue. Service life of valves - 6 years.

The product warranty does not apply if:

its mechanical damage;
installations in violation of the requirements of this manual;
improper maintenance during operation:
non-compliance of water with the technical requirements of GOST 2761-84.

To increase the reliability and durability of the fittings, it is recommended to additionally install a filter in the water supply network.

Reinforcement installation

The fittings are delivered assembled, complete and configured for a specific type of tank

The procedure for installing fittings in the tank

After installing the fittings, do not allow the moving parts of the valves to touch each other and the walls of the tank.

When connecting the water hose to the inlet valve, hold the valve from turning.

To avoid leakage from under the gasket, tighten the fixing wing nuts evenly on both sides.

Installing the reservoir cap and button assembly

Check that there is a gap of 3 - 19 mm between the tank cap and the button assembly, inserted all the way into the thread of the exhaust valve (without screwing in).

For reliable centering of the threads, before screwing in, make 1 - 2 turns counterclockwise until a characteristic click, which will show that the thread has “sat down” in its place.

Armature adjustment

If the distance between the reservoir cap and the button assembly is beyond

limits 3 ... 19 mm, it is necessary to adjust the outlet valve in height

(see fig. 2 and the table for adjusting the height of the reinforcement), Disconnect the rod 23 from

overflow body 12. Squeeze cup latches 10 and move

racks 6 up and down achieve a gap of 3 ... 19 mm.

Attach the rod to the overflow body.

To adjust the water level in the tank

disconnect the rod 2 (see Fig. 1), move

float up or down and reattach

drawn to him. Minimum distance between

water level and the upper edge of the tank 45 mm.

After adjusting the water level in the tank, adjust the overflow pipe 7

(see Fig.2). To do this, unscrew the bayonet cover 9 and move the pipe

overflow to a position at which the risk on the pipe corresponds to the level

water in the tank. Tighten the bayonet cap.

* For long stem fittings

** when setting to this division, remove the overflow pipe 7

Fittings for the flush tank, Mounting the toilet lid

Instructions for installing fittings for the toilet cistern. Instructions for assembling and installing toilet seats

cistern fittings with bottom water connection

Looking at the ingenious interweaving of sewer, water pipes, hoses, having had enough "talk" with the gentlemen plumbers from the housing department, who arrived on their regular visit about an extraordinary blockage or leak, after a superficial study of the structure of the toilet bowl, after re-reading a bunch of responses and advice from experienced ones, you come to conclusion that a toilet with a lower water supply is the best option.

Pros and cons of toilet bowls with bottom connection

The undoubted advantages include:

neat, aesthetic appearance a toilet bowl, thanks to which sewer and water communications are not visible;
the lower connection is practically silent and economical - the water does not “run”, since the flow of water comes from the bottom of the drain barrel;
the lower eyeliner is reliable, rarely requires repair.

this type of eyeliner is difficult to install;
Difficulties in replacing parts - it is easier to completely replace the system.

The efficiency of sanitary equipment directly depends on the quality of sediment cleaning from the outlet pipe elbow, this function is performed by fittings for the toilet flush tank.

Drain tank device

a reservoir where water is located;
fittings;
drain systems;
flush buttons.

How to choose fittings for a drain tank

Initially, the diameter of the water intake pipe is measured with a tape measure, a ruler. At 1.5 cm eyeliner - 3/8 inch, at 2.0 cm - ½ inch.

It is better to buy fittings of the same model as the old one. To do this, dismantle the failed mechanism, show a sample to the sales assistant. Now fittings are often sold already assembled, which will not require additional effort.

How the fittings for the toilet cistern with bottom connection are arranged

The materials from which fittings are made are plastic, metal, bronze. Plastic is the most popular, but fragile material, the cost of a product made from it is low, bronze, respectively, is a more durable material and the cost of a product made from it is quite high. There is nothing complicated in the structure of the fittings of the drain tank. Despite the variety of models, the principle of constructing reinforcement is the same.

The fittings intended for the lower eyeliner are divided into:

The drain mechanism is fixed in the tank with a union nut. To seal the joint, special seals are put on the downpipe before installation, and a gasket is placed between the drain tank and the bowl, which prevents water from flowing. Water is drained by pressing the button or with a rod drain device, by lifting the lever up.

The push-button device, in turn, is divided into:

a one-button device that provides complete draining, that is, the entire tank is emptied;
a two-button device, in which it is possible to completely and partially empty the tank, respectively, such a drain device has two valves.

There can also be a float of different designs:

With a piston - the float is attached to the piston, with pressure on the lever, the drain opens, when water is drawn in, it closes the valve;
With a membrane - the mechanism of action, as with a piston.

The shut-off valves consist of: a float, a water overflow tube, a push-button mechanism for draining water, a rod, a glass, a membrane valve. Draining occurs as follows: after pressing the button, water flows out of the tank, the float goes down, the membrane valve opens with a pull, and water flows from the water pipe, which fills the flush tank. The float rises to established level which limits traction. The diaphragm valve then closes, preventing further water ingress.

Materials and tools required for installation and replacement of fittings

Roulette, you can get by with a regular ruler.
Adjustable wrench No. 1.
Spanners.
Fittings.

Reinforcement installation

A non-professional can also install the mechanism in the flush tank. Initially, you should read the instructions attached to the kit, neglect its study, the right is not worth it.

Fittings for a toilet bowl with a lower connection device which is better

Fittings for a toilet bowl with a two-button bottom connection how to replace. The valve for a toilet bowl with the lower eyeliner 3/8.

Toilet fittings with bottom and side connections: differences, selection, installation

No living space can be imagined without an equipped toilet room. In order for the toilet to function correctly, it is necessary to select and install fittings in the drain tank. Modern toilet fittings with a bottom connection or a side connection can last a long time if they are properly selected and installed.

The interior of the toilet bowl

Types of reinforcement and their features

Modern shutoff valves for the toilet are of two types:

Fittings with bottom connection

The constituent elements of the lower reinforcement are:

a float that regulates the level of water in the tank;
guide along which the float moves;
inlet valve;
trigger device;
o-rings, allowing you to install the fittings as tightly as possible.

Tank fittings with bottom connection

The main advantages of bottom reinforcement are:

noiseless filling of the tank with water;
simplicity of design, affecting the durability of plumbing equipment;
the ability to hide the inlet hose.

Fittings with lateral connection

Fittings for a toilet bowl with a side connection includes the following structural elements:

water inlet valve connected by a lever to a float (4) that determines the maximum water level (5);
trigger mechanism;
trigger control lever.

Toilet fittings with side connection

The positive qualities of side reinforcement include:

simplicity of design, which allows inspecting and repairing individual elements of the system;
no need for a strong seal at the point of connection of the inlet hose;
low cost.

The only negative factor is the occurrence of noise when filling the tank with water.

Reinforcement selection criteria

Replacing the toilet fittings is required if a malfunction is detected in the system. In order for a new device to serve for a long time, the choice should be guided by the following aspects:

fittings can be made of plastic or brass. Brass products can last longer than plastic;

Types of reinforcement depending on the material used for manufacturing

if plastic bottom or side fittings for the toilet are purchased, then it is necessary to check the quality of the components. Plastic components must be smooth, free of burrs and deformation;
it is more expedient to purchase plastic fittings made of polypropylene or low-pressure polyethylene. Such devices are considered the most reliable;
the gaskets used for assembly should be as soft to the touch as possible. If the sealing element is slightly stretched, no cracks should be visible on it. This aspect indicates the quality of the gaskets and the correctness of their manufacture. All gaskets must be of the correct shape;

Sealing elements for fittings

fittings fasteners can be made of plastic or bronze. Metal fasteners are more durable when installed. Fasteners must have at least two gaskets;

Set of elements for fastening fittings

the float valve must move smoothly. The presence of sharp jumps or jamming is not allowed;
the assembly structure must be strong. All elements must be securely fastened to each other. If a separate component part has a free play, then the fittings will quickly fail.

Self-installation of fittings

Installation of fittings in the drain tank is carried out according to the following scheme:

from trigger the fixing nut located at the bottom is unscrewed. Under the nut is a rubber gasket that serves to seal the connection;
the sealing ring is installed on the bottom of the drain tank;
the trigger is fixed on the prepared gasket with a nut;
next, you need to remove the fixing nut from the filling valve. If fittings with a bottom connection are used, then the nut is located at the bottom of the device. If side fittings are used, the nut is located on the side of the valve;
under the nut there is also an o-ring, which must be installed on the hole from the inside of the tank;
the inlet valve is mounted inside the tank and fixed with a plastic nut;

Installation of intake and drain valves

the installed inlet and outlet valves must not come into contact with each other and with the walls of the drain tank. If the specified defect is detected, then the reinforcement elements are deployed in different directions until the defect is completely eliminated. After correct installation, the fixing nuts are tightened to the maximum possible level;

Fittings correctly located in the tank

a flexible piping is being installed, through which water will flow into the tank. When connecting the eyeliner, also do not forget about the gasket;

Water supply for drain tank

valve performance check. If necessary, adjust the float. If a float on the lever is used, then to adjust it, it is enough to bend the lever to the required value. If a float moving along a guide is used, then the travel limit is fixed with a special retaining ring or clamps;

Setting the required water level in the tank

installing the cover and connecting the drain handle (button).

Rules for connecting a handle for draining water

An absolutely unskilled person can independently choose fittings for a drain tank, knowing the basic rules. When installing fittings, the main thing is to strictly adhere to the scheme described above and check the tightness of the connections obtained.

Toilet fittings with bottom and side connections: selection and installation rules

The fittings located in the toilet bowl perform a specific function - maintaining a given level of water for flushing. Self-selection and installation of the device does not cause difficulties.

Fittings for a drain tank with a bottom connection: installation features, types and reviews

Plumbing repair is a delicate matter, which is why most people prefer to turn to specialists. But it is not always possible to call a professional, and in most cases a breakdown can be completely eliminated on its own. For example, the toilet cistern that is always “noisy” without respite and the water constantly flowing inside the faience throne will surely lead anyone to the conclusion that it is necessary to repair the cistern fittings with a bottom connection or other manipulations inside the storage tank. It is quite possible to perform such an operation with one's own hands.

Other signs of worn reinforcement

The water constantly flowing in the tank itself can signal several types of breakdown:

Deterioration of the sealing membrane. This often happens during long-term water outages, the rubber that gets wet during operation dries out and cracks. You will need new fittings for the drain tank with a bottom connection.

Incorrect float level relative to overflow. It only takes a few minutes to adjust the position of the float inside the tank.

Leaks inside the filling fittings or failure of the locking mechanism. Such breakdowns are eliminated by replacing the entire assembly.

Also, the wear of the gaskets can lead to a leak at the junction of the inlet hose and the tank. This problem can be solved by replacing a damaged gasket, replacing an entire worn hose, or a new shut-off valve for a drain tank with a bottom connection. Leaks are also possible at the attachment points of the tank, which may indicate its improper installation or damage during operation. In any case, for starters, it’s worth finally deciding how serious the breakdown is, identifying the faulty node and calculating your own strength, since after inaccurate intervention in the plumbing system, the cost of a specialist can increase significantly.

Reinforcement type definition

To identify the reasons, you often have to look inside the drain tank, this is done quite simply. Majority existing systems, except for completely outdated ones with ropes, has working buttons or a stem that is attached with internal thread. By unscrewing this element from the main part of the fittings, you can remove the tank lid and look inside. The fittings for the cistern with a lower connection are different in that the water-bearing hose is connected more discreetly to the toilet cistern, namely from behind and from below.

Choosing the right replacement

If you have come to the conclusion that a complete repair of such an assembly as a fitting for a drain tank with a bottom connection is necessary, then you need to decide on a replacement. Unfortunately, obsolete types of flush fittings will have to be changed along with the cistern, and even with the entire toilet, so their repair comes down to temporary measures or the use of handicrafts. But most modern models of flush tanks are compatible with universal fittings. When choosing suitable model fittings, it is important to decide on the eyeliner, bottom or side, while the switching method, the button or the exhaust lever can be chosen to your own taste. Push-button fittings can be made with two buttons with the implementation of an incomplete drain mode, when choosing such a model, the capacity of the tank should be taken into account. You should also be aware that different manufacturers have their own design and assembly of fittings for a drain tank with a bottom connection, so choose a failed separate detail can be extremely difficult.

Preparation for work

If your underflow cistern fitting needs to be replaced and you decide to do the repair yourself, you will need to prepare workplace and some set of simple tools. First of all, it is necessary to block the access of water to the tank and drain the water. Working with plumbing involves possible splashes of water and drops on the floor, so you should stock up on a rag or sponge. Threaded connections on tanks, they are usually tightened only by hand, since the main material of the fittings is plastic. You may need pliers or an adjustable wrench for heavily tightened nuts. To flush the tank and remove plaque, you may need detergents used for bath or tile.

Dismantling the fittings of the drain tank with the bottom connection

As standard, the fittings consist of two independent units: a water inlet valve with a locking system and a manual flush valve. Often, only one of the nodes requires replacement, which can be taken into account when buying. To remove the inlet valve, you must first unscrew the flexible supply hose, and then the fixing plastic nut, after which the entire valve structure can be removed through the top of the tank.

The flush mechanism in universal fittings is attached with an external nut, to access which you will have to remove the entire tank. First, they remove the special bolts that hold the water tank, then turn the tank for convenience and unscrew the exhaust valve nut. With a sufficient length of the inlet hose, the procedure for replacing the outlet valve of the fitting can be carried out without dismantling the inlet mechanism.

Installation of fittings for a drain tank with a bottom connection

Installation is carried out in the reverse order. Manufacturers clearly indicate in the instructions the places where special gaskets are used. All connections must be tightened without wrenches or other tools. First, install the drain valve in the tank and secure it with a nut. The two screws securing the tank to the toilet should be tightened simultaneously and evenly to avoid distortion of the joint. Attaching the inlet valve must also be done by hand, these precautions protect the fragile porcelain of the tank from chipping and soft gaskets from chafing.

If you came across an identical fitting for a drain tank with a bottom connection on sale, which was before, you can set it up according to the marks of the old mechanism. In another case, you will have to adjust the product in place right in the tank, since this is not particularly difficult. Universal fittings are equipped with special movable snap-on connections, allowing you to adjust the device to a large number of tank models. First, adjust the inlet valve so that the level of water taken in is sufficient, but does not exceed the drain hole of the outlet valve. It is better to check immediately by drawing water into the tank in the usual way through the supply hose. Next, the drain valve is adjusted to the height of the tank, the button without screwing in should be a few mm higher than the level of the lid. Later, during installation, the button will drop down and become flush with the surface of the tank.