Make an iron workbench. Do-it-yourself metal workbench: drawings. Workplace lighting

I want to weld a workbench in the garage. Locksmith, as in the workshop.
To cook on it, and sharpen, and screw the vise, and put tools in boxes.

I was able to visualize my intentions. For a long time I went through different layout options and figured out the dimensions. I think I found the best option for myself.

Metal parts are marked in blue, wooden parts are in yellow.
The tabletop will be made of a 50mm thick board, girded with a 50x50x4 corner and covered with a 2mm metal sheet. The frame of the workbench will be welded from a profile pipe 60x40x2. Stiffeners will be welded from a 40x40x4 corner. Shelves and side panels will be made of 30mm boards. From the 40x4 strip, guides for attaching the side panels will be made. The boxes will be welded from 2mm metal and mounted on a powerful skid.

For the purchase of metal, we agreed with Diky to order a Gazelle for two in order to pay less, and on Saturday at 8:30 in the morning, in order not to stretch it out for the whole day, we went to the metal depot.

The weather was slippery and with a cold wind. A loader in a tattered army pea jacket, who looked like he was suffering from a hangover, took out wet metal for cutting. Nearby, in a puddle, lay a dirty carrier with a grinder connected to it. Cut off pieces of rolled metal plopped into a slushy puddle. The ordered Gazelle was waiting nearby. It was getting light.

Do not consider me a maniac, but after arriving at the garage, I washed with water and wiped dry grubby rusty pieces of freshly bought metal. Anyway, clean it before painting, otherwise it will be more pleasant to work with it.

On that harsh January morning were bought:
1. Corner 50x50x4 6.4 meters
2. Pipe 60x40x2 24 meters
3. Corner 40x40x4 6.75 meters
4. Strip 40x4 8 meters
Only 121 kilograms of metal for 4000 rubles.
Now I will cook my workbench.

Cutting the main parts of the frame took two evenings, a total of five hours.
In total, it turns out that the skeleton of the workbench will consist of 45 welded parts.
The tags indicate what it is and where to weld it.

Now you can safely put everything on the back burner and surrender to the thick fetid sticky quagmire of everyday hopeless routine.

Welded brackets for the toolbar above the workbench.

And the base for a homemade countertop is welded.

The crossbars of the base for the worktop are welded flush with the corner. For this, figured cutouts are made in the crossbars. Here's a little sketch of what it looks like:



In the meantime, scalded the instrument panel brackets.

Overlays from 4mm strip reinforced loaded joints.

Welded 24 brackets for the side panels. The panels will be plywood - cheaper than metal and look better.

Brackets give additional rigidity to the entire structure.

I want to cover the countertop with a sheet of metal 4mm or 5mm. There is an office on Moskovsky Prospekt that immediately cuts sheets of metal to size. I need a 2200x750 sheet.
If you take a sheet of 2500x1250, then two good pieces will remain (2200x500 and 300x1250) or (2500x500 and 750x300), which can also be chopped into the desired size.
If such pieces are useful to someone, then [b]let's cooperate, otherwise it's a little expensive for one.

I made boxes from 15mm plywood. Assembled with 80mm screws. Each box contains 20 screws. It came out strong just the way I like it.

The size of each box is 0.6m x 0.7m x 0.2m

The sled was fastened by welding. I learned how to weld a 1mm tin to a 4mm strip with a 3mm electrode at a current of 100 amner. It's like putting a 3-liter V8 car engine in a food processor. It was just that the TIG was lazy to uncover. What's more, it's so secure.

Now I'm thinking about different options facades.

This completes the welding phase. Ahead is a carpenter and a painter. Still in a trifle locksmith and electrically conductive.

Painting the frame of a homemade workbench.
I asked the seller to recommend a good paint.
- Wah, what a good paint, I swear by my mother! - he answered, holding out a can of paint over rust with metal chips for 500 rubles.

Covered the table top edged board 150x40. I fastened the boards to the frame with self-tapping screws 4.0x35. I used 60 screws in total.

I sanded the surface a little so that the sheet of metal lay denser.

Watered about protecting the tree from fire. Impregnated wood cannot sustain combustion on its own.
When the impregnated wood is heated, a melted film is formed, which does not burn and limits the access of oxygen to the surface. The manufacturer of my impregnation declared group I of fire retardant efficiency - the highest.

Of course, this does not allow you to cook metal directly on the surface of the workbench. All the same, if the boards do not catch fire, they will char. To organize a welding post, I plan to weld a removable grate that will reliably protect the surface of the countertop from thermal exposure.

After drying, I will cover the countertop with an already prepared 4mm metal sheet.

Covered the countertop with a 4mm sheet of metal. The sheet was attracted to a wooden base with rows of self-tapping screws with a hidden head. The tabletop turned out to be monumental.

Shields of 10mm plywood closed the extra openings in the frame of the workbench.
Pictured is the paint shop.

Has registered on a table-top of permanent tenants - a grinder and a vise. On a hefty tabletop, they are lost.

1) What is the best way to cover bare metal on a countertop? I'm leaning towards a rust converter, which will create a strong protective film and easy to update as needed. Maybe there are better ideas?
2) Where can I get a sturdy chair with adjustable height?

P.S. I think it will be interesting for those reading this thread - a bourgeois site with a bunch of ideas for welded tables and other welded things: http://www.pinterest.com/explore/welding-table/ You can find the manufacturing process for everything presented on the links.

Nevertheless, he decided and smeared the countertop with a rust converter. It is necessary to smear with a thin uniform layer.

While the countertop was drying finished with shelves in the left drawer

Well, in general, smearing the countertop was not a bad idea. It really turned out to be a film, as if varnished. True, it is not covered very neatly, but it is really easy to restore - because. the film is easily dissolved by a new portion of the transducer and dries again, hiding all old damage.

From the big one - it remains to make a panel for tools and place fasteners on it for everything-everything-everything.
I want to hang a sheet of plywood or a solid furniture board 15mm thick and 2.2 meters x 1 meter in size. If anyone has one, I suggest an exchange for a sheet of metal 4mm 2.2 meters x 0.5 meters (left from the countertop).

Well, actually, for the sake of what ...

Test passed

Class! You no longer have to huddle with hand-held power tools on stools, lay out tools, fasteners, screwdrivers, taps and tape measures on all available shelves and nooks and crannies around and look for them, forgetting where you put them - everything is in one place and at hand.

Installed the instrument panel. Solid, from 21 mm plywood.

4 corners 50x50x4 plus plywood 21 mm plus 16 bolts 8x40 equals to hang tens of kilograms of tools without fear of breaking something

Facades for drawers made from the remnants of the 21st plywood

That's all.
The dream workbench is ready. In some places, something came out crooked, but I am very pleased with the result.


The net weight of the workbench exceeded 200 kilograms. Worktop area 1.65 square meters, instrument panel area 2.2 square meters. The total volume of the left and right pedestals is almost one cubic meter. A feature of the workbench is that you can sit behind it when working with TIG, and the tabletop covered with a 4mm metal sheet is not afraid of mechanical damage. Roomy shelves, drawers and a panel allow you to conveniently store almost all the tools I have, providing convenient quick access to it.
Here is such a homemade workbench of dreams.
I think my great-grandchildren will work on it.

P.S. And after a little refinement, you get an excellent dressing table)) -816- http://gazeta-v.ru/catalog/detail/192_vizazhist_i_fotograf/15464_grimernyy_stol_svoimi_rukami/

Well, to put a bullet in the project a few more photos.

Self-tapping screws are screwed in and out quickly and easily (with a screwdriver, of course).

In time I will add spanners, holders for drills and screwdrivers, a paper towel holder, and, well, additional lighting. Thankfully for two square meters there is room to expand. I made an awesome piece. Satisfied like an elephant.

Firstly, the small vise could not withstand the load and burst.

Instead, more powerful vices are installed. On one side they have a five-pointed star cast, on the other - the numbers 1958 - probably the year of issue. So they are 56 years old? Hope they last me the same. In general, a good vise is the pride of the master.

The photo shows that the table top does not protrude beyond the dimensions of the table at all. Therefore, when attaching a vice to the bolts, it will not be possible to crawl from below to tighten the nut. I thought so. The vise and sharpener are fixed to the tabletop with anchor bolts. Looks neat and holds deadly.

Secondly, it turned out that the deep drawers in the right cabinet are not very convenient. It would be better to make them smaller. I will invent some organizers inside them.

The rest turned out great. All tools in one place, in plain sight and always ready. On a large tabletop there is also where to decompose.

You can purchase some items from this blog in our VKontakte group:

Having a workbench in the garage, you can perform repair work on one's own without resorting to expensive car service or utilities.

Ready-made workbenches stand not cheap, and they don’t always fit into the garage, so it’s better to make a desktop for the garage workshop with your own hands.

Before starting work, you need to decide on the type of workbench and choose for your model additional functional fixtures.

Types of workbenches

Workbenches vary in several criteria, including design features, dimensions and other peculiarities:

  1. By destination:
    • Carpentry workbench is a special table consisting of a workbench (cover) and a pre-workbench. The basis is two support posts connected into a rigid structure by means of longitudinal bars fixed between them. The lid of the workbench is made from beech or oak wood of deep drying, along the side of the board, an elongated recess is made for folding small tools. Attached to the front of the lid workers vise, and on the back they make a rectangular cutout in which you can move additional vise. Drilled into the tabletop row holes for the installation of clamps or stops required in the work;
    • carpentry workbench It has maximum length before 6 m, so that you can fix and process long boards and other lumber. Emphasis for fixing boards complement triangular cut, in which wedges are placed so that the workpiece remains stationary;
    • locksmith workbench- This is a sturdy desktop on a metal frame, having a thick wooden table top, sheathed with galvanized sheet steel. This design withstands solvent exposure and other aggressive chemicals, as well as hammer blows and the severity of workpieces;
    • Universal workbench basically similar to the design of a locksmith's desktop, but has additional holes in the tabletop and possibility fixing vise on different sides of the cover;
  2. By number of jobs distinguish one-, two-many workbenches;
  3. For additional features:
    • Folding workbenches(with folding parts of the working surface, which is very convenient in small rooms);
    • Workbench cabinets with a set of drawers in the underframe.

Material selection

Choosing material for the manufacture of a workbench in the garage, necessary take into account what types of work are most often performed, how many people are involved in the work (if two, then it is better to make the countertop more authentic) and how much space in the garage can be allocated for a workbench.

table base it is better do metallic by choosing a steel corner for this or profile pipes(square or rectangle in section).

for countertop optimal material is oak board or timber good quality so that the material does not subsequently crack or sag.

Under the lining of the table cover choose steel sheet of sufficient size with galvanization (anti-corrosion treatment of steel will greatly extend the life of the workbench).

Choosing a place in the garage for a workbench

Garages have predominantly rectangular shape, so when choosing a place for a workbench, certain peculiarities use of the future workplace:

  1. If the width of the garage is sufficient, then the best place for the workbench will one from the long walls of the building, as this will make it possible to make a table of the required length and provide access to the workbench from three sides, which is very convenient, especially in the case of two people working simultaneously;
  2. If the workbench is installed at the end garage, you can take out all the fasteners for a vice and other devices on the front of the tabletop, distributing holes for clamps and other tools along the front longitudinal side of the table;
  3. Another option for the location of the workbench - along the long wall with an emphasis on the end wall, which makes it possible to use the approach to the table from two sides.

Advice! If on the side of the workbench adjacent to the wall to strengthen vertical racks with crossbars, you can conveniently place on hooks or other types of holders various tools that will always be in sight.

Manufacturing steps

Making a workbench for installation in a garage includes some stages:

  • Cutting metal parts for the frame, based on the optimal dimensions of the workbench (leg height up to 0-90 cm, table top length 120 -150 cm, width up to 80 cm);
  • We weld the frame under the countertop or we connect the parts into a rectangle with bolts;
  • We weld the legs table to frame;
  • At the bottom of the legs (approx. 10 cm from floor) fasten safety metal details that will give the workbench stability;
  • We attach to the frame boards countertops with bolts;
  • We sheathe the lid metal with self-tapping screws.

Attention! In order for the workbench to acquire maximum stability, it is attached to the garage floor with metal corners.

How to make a workbench in the garage with your own hands, learn from this video:

Most garage owners, in addition to the main purpose, use the premises as a workshop, which is quite logical - many repair their car on their own, using various devices and equipment for this. If necessary, any other technical work, repair of household appliances, assembly of structures or devices for the country house, etc., are carried out. In order to qualitatively perform all these manipulations, appropriate conditions are required. The best option is to create a comfortable and durable workbench with your own hands.

If you plan to use the garage, including as a workshop, you can't do without a workbench.

A workbench is a desktop that is convenient for performing various technical operations. The main purpose is locksmith work using manual or electric tools, processing parts, assembling or disassembling mechanisms, manufacturing or repair individual parts etc.

In addition, the workbench is a place to store tools. If it is properly organized, all manual or electric tools and devices are in full view and located in the most convenient way, just reach out. Sockets for power tools, a vise for fixing workpieces and other elements of the arrangement are installed nearby.

The result of performing any work directly depends on the conditions in which they were carried out, so the workbench allows you to get high-quality and expected results from your efforts.

Workbench design

A good workbench should combine functionality and compactness.

Most garages have limited space, so choosing the right workbench design is important. The main requirement is the optimal combination of functionality and compactness. Standard size garage box - 6x4 m. If we subtract from this the area occupied by the machine, there is not so much free space left that must be used in the most rational way.

There are many design options for a workbench, but all of them must have:

  • Main work surface
  • One or more cabinets for storing various things and at the same time performing the functions of supporting elements;
  • Drawers for storing small parts, fasteners or tools;
  • Shield to accommodate the most used tools.

It is also important to ensure the availability of high-quality lighting and sockets for connecting hand-held power tools. It is recommended to place them in the upper tier so that the wire does not interfere under the arms and does not create dangerous situations.

Main types

The supporting structure of the workbench must withstand heavy weight loads

The main element of the workbench is the supporting structure, made in the form of a frame. It provides rigidity and strength, takes on all the loads and at the same time serves as a frame for cabinets and drawers.

The work surface (tabletop) is a separate element attached to the frame after assembly. The material for the frame can be:

  • Metal elements - corner, round or rectangular pipes, a combination of different types;
  • Wooden bar.

The use of metal parts requires welding or threaded connections. Wood is simpler and easier to process, but its strength is much lower, which requires the use of fairly thick support bars. Often the frame is assembled from a combination of those and other elements. This is usually caused by a shortage of materials - what is available is used and saves money and time.

For the tabletop you can use:

  • Sheet materials - chipboard, plywood, OSB, MDF, etc. But it is worth considering that they are not strong enough and require installation in 2 layers, which increases the consumption of materials;
  • Plank flooring. It is recommended to use material with a thickness of 30 mm or more with a planed surface. The boards do not withstand serious mechanical loads, shocks, and are unstable to high temperatures. At the same time, they are convenient for securely fixing any devices that can simply be nailed or screwed in order to subsequently remove them and release the fixed object. The flooring has gaps that are dangerous when working with small parts that can fall and get lost;
  • Sheet metal. The resulting surface has no gaps, which allows you to work with small details. The tabletop is durable, reliable and able to withstand significant loads. The disadvantage is the tendency to corrosion and the ability to conduct electric current, which in some situations is dangerous for a working person.

In addition, there are various options workbench shapes:

  • Straight;
  • Angular;
  • With additional elements - racks, upper tier, etc.

There are differences in the type of functionality:

  • Joiner's workbench. Usually made of wood, used to process wooden parts. It has certain dimensions and is equipped with a wooden vice.

  • Locksmith workbench. It is assembled from metal and used to work with metal parts.

Choice of the most suitable option due to the preferences of the owner, the availability of skills to perform certain work, free space in the garage and other circumstances.

The most common design option is a metal workbench with a frame made of a rectangular metal pipe, installed along a long or short wall (sometimes they assemble an angular version placed along both walls),

Necessary tools and materials

To create a metal workbench with your own hands, you will need:

  • Bulgarian with cutting and grinding wheels;
  • Welding machine;
  • Roulette, ruler, square;
  • Pencil or scriber;
  • Building level, laser level or level;
  • Electric drill or screwdriver;
  • Jigsaw for cutting sheet materials (chipboard, MDF, plywood, etc.).

From materials it is necessary to prepare:

  • Metal corner 50 to 50;
  • Rectangular pipe 60 to 40;
  • Steel strip and steel sheet for the manufacture of guides for boxes, racks, upper tier, tool board;
  • Boards or sheet materials under the countertop;
  • Boxing;
  • Self-tapping screws, screws, bolts with nuts, other fasteners;
  • Paint, brushes, solvent.

Depending on the design chosen, other parts or materials may be required, only the most necessary elements are listed.

Preparatory work

Creating a workbench drawing is an obligatory part of the preparatory stage

Preparation for the assembly of the workbench consists in determining the design features, choosing the dimensions and installation location of the structure. In order for not a single moment to escape attention and not be forgotten, it is recommended to create a working drawing of a workbench, made to scale with reference to the dimensions of the garage. Particular attention should be paid to the height of the countertop - it differs significantly from the height of the usual dining table. The best option is the height from the floor to the bend of the elbows of a person standing straight. Given the difference in height between different people, assembling the optimal workbench for yourself can be a very rewarding event.

In addition, we must remember that the width of the countertop should not be too large. The size of the garage is relatively small, often you have to work next to the car standing inside.

You will need a place for a person to pass, so 50 cm is considered the optimal width. You also need to decide on the size of the shield for the tools that are needed most often.

The tools at hand will save time and effort that goes into finding the necessary items in drawers and shelves.

Step-by-step instructions for making a workbench for a garage

Base frame assembly

Consider the approximate procedure for assembling a metal workbench. You need to perform the following operations:

  1. According to the assembly drawing, parts of the appropriate length are cut to assemble the support frame. A rectangular pipe, a steel angle or other types of rolled products selected for this are used.
  2. The frame is being welded. First, the support platform for the countertop is welded, then it is turned over and the supports and frame of the cabinet are welded. Drawer guides are installed, side panels are attached.
  3. Welds are cleaned with a grinder, burrs and sharp edges formed during metal cutting are removed.
  4. The workbench is turned over and installed in a pre-selected place. It is cut from sheet material or cut to length the required number of boards to cover the countertop. Installation and surface finishing
  5. Depending on the type of construction, a back wall is attached to the rear edge of the worktop, preventing tools or parts from rolling and falling behind the workbench. In a garage, this is very important, since it will be extremely difficult to find a rolled up small screw.
  6. The instrumental shield is assembled and hung on the wall. Usually a sheet of plywood is used with rows of holes through which rods are inserted to hang the tool.
  7. The racks are assembled in a similar way: frame welding, installation of planes and hanging on walls or installation with fixation to them. All edges are carefully processed and cleaned, sharp corners are rounded off.
  8. The finished structure is painted, after the paint dries, the lighting is installed, the tool is placed, the vise, emery and other necessary devices are attached.

The listed operations refer to the main, most necessary actions. Depending on the type of construction and the presence of additional elements, other assembly steps may be required. In order to avoid mistakes, it is recommended to think over the order of work during the creation of the working drawing. It is necessary to follow the points of the plan to increase the speed of work and eliminate confusion in the assembly of the structure.

Video: The process of creating a workbench

Safety precautions when working with a homemade workbench

Working with a homemade workbench requires normal safety precautions. Self-assembly does not change any requirements and norms.

It is necessary to connect the workbench to the common ground loop of the garage, firmly fix it to the floor or walls. Racks and tool board with upper tier are firmly attached to the walls with anchor bolts. screws in this case cannot be used.

All electric wires must be hidden in corrugated hoses or cable ducts. Lighting should be sufficient, directed from the left side and from above. The possibility of swinging the workbench should be excluded, all supports should stand firmly and tightly on the floor, ensuring complete immobility of the work surface.

Having a quality workbench will help you do everything necessary work in normal conditions. The time to complete the work will be significantly reduced, and the quality of work will improve. Assembly work will be carried out quickly and efficiently, if all necessary tools and materials will be pre-prepared, cut and categorized. Then it will become easier to perform assembly operations, and the possibility of error will be reduced to zero.

A good workbench in the garage allows you to make different kinds work on metal and wood in a short period of time. Various tools and small parts are stored here. in plain language, it is a special table on which you can make turning and locksmith products.

In addition to the countertop, there may be multi-layer structures of shelves and hanging containers for storing nails, screws and nuts.

Making a universal workbench is quite simple. The main thing in this matter is to prepare a project and detailed drawings of the future product. In the process of creation, it is necessary to observe the order of each action.

Self-manufacturing such a structure will save a decent amount. In addition, an individual project helps to make a design based on the parameters of your premises.


Workbench Varieties

There are several types of workbench. Each of them has some characteristic features. In turn, they are divided into:

Locksmith. It is intended for metal work. The tabletop of such a product is made of high-strength metal alloy. This is necessary for security. Sparks may be present during iron work.

In addition, the use of lubricants can leave marks on wooden surface. The iron base does not require special care.

Joiner's. Its surface is made up of solid wood. A carpenter's workbench is used for woodworking. These products do not have high strength and versatility, unlike metalwork.

The universal table has a metal and wooden tabletop in its design. The drawing of the workbench shows the arrangement of the carpentry work area.

What is included in the design of the workbench?

If the product is made independently, then it is important to think over every little thing. Additional shelves and capacious hanging containers will help to rationally use this product. The standard model contains many drawers for storing large tools.


A homemade table can have both a metal and a wooden storage system. An additional metal shield allows you to store small hanging tools here. Now hacksaws and hammers will be located in one place.

How to make a workbench with your own hands?

We bring to your attention detailed instructions how to make a workbench. The manufacture of a carpentry table takes place in several stages. First of all, you need to prepare all the tools and materials.

For this you will need:

  • hacksaw;
  • screwdriver or a set of screwdrivers of different diameters;
  • joiner's square;
  • level;
  • bolts;
  • nuts;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • detailed drawing of the product;
  • wrench.


From the materials you need to prepare:

  • bars for support. The size of each element should be 110 x 110 mm. In the selection process, special attention must be paid to the condition of the wood. There should not be cracks and knots;
  • plywood sheets 30 mm thick;
  • frame boards.

When all the necessary items are prepared, you can proceed to the workflow. It includes the following steps:

The initial action will be the construction of the lower frame, in which the tools and the bench will be located. To do this, the boards are sawn off to the desired level. Then they are connected to each other using self-tapping screws. The end result should be a rectangular shape.

A spacer bar is installed in the middle. In the future, it will reduce the resistance of the finished product during the workflow, you will need a small wooden board.

The support legs of the table are fixed with bolts. To do this, through holes are made in the plane of the frame. For reliability, it is recommended to make from 6 to 8 legs around the entire perimeter.

To give rigidity to the product, it is necessary to make a lower shelf. At the bottom of each leg, 25 cm are marked. Next, long wooden planks are attached here. In the future, a chipboard panel will be fixed on their surface. She will act as the foundation.


When the main part of the frame is completed, proceed to install the top countertop. Here you will need a hacksaw. It removes the redundant parts of the board.

Hardboard will help protect the surface of a wooden table top. This is a durable material that is designed for the work area.

You can increase the storage system with the help of an additional metal shield, which is attached to the back of the carpentry table. Through holes are made in the supporting boards. After that, the metal base is fixed with bolts. In the photo of the workbench with your own hands, the sequence of each action is captured.

DIY workbenches photo

The general principle of the development of material processing technology from prehistoric times to the present day is how to make details on inaccurate equipment for more accuracy. And it all started with a workbench, its prototypes are found during excavations of Stone Age settlements. It is quite possible to build a workbench, and a full-fledged one, with your own hands, and this will not only save a significant amount, but also simplify, facilitate work and improve its result.

Three mistakes

Amateurs, sometimes, judging by their designs, very experienced, knowledgeable and diligent, sometimes make workbenches for themselves, on which, figuratively speaking, a tank can be smashed with a sledgehammer. They take a lot of time and labor, and hardly less money than a good branded amateur workbench. Repetition in the design for own use of industrial prototypes designed for intensive work in 3 shifts and a static load of more than a ton, with a service life of 20 years is one of common mistakes development of workbenches of their own design.

The second is the neglect of vibrations. Not a clearly felt “play” or “recoil”, but a small tremor that significantly complicates the work and reduces its quality. Vibrations are especially strong in workbenches on a metal bed.

Third - repeat carpentry or locksmith workbenches; perhaps with some tweaks to your liking. Meanwhile designs of workbenches for home/amateur work different nature a lot. There are workbenches more or less specialized or, conversely, universal, temporary from improvised materials, etc.

In this article we will figure out how to make a workbench taking into account these errors, firstly, simpler and cheaper according to the range of needs and / or hobbies of the craftsman. Secondly, how to make a general-purpose workbench or a universal workbench for special conditions of use - in a cramped garage, under carpentry at a construction site from improvised trash, home for fine precision work, for children.

About universal workbenches

Among the branded products, sometimes very expensive, you can find "universal" workbenches in the form of a carpenter's with a lid without a tray, a complete locksmith's vice on a wooden cushion, and a clamp for their installation, like the one in the photo:

“Universal” prefabricated workbench

This is the wrong decision, not only because the wooden countertop deteriorates from carpentry. The main thing that is bad here is the technological fluids used in metal processing - oil, kerosene, etc. The wood impregnated with them becomes much more combustible. Self-ignition is also possible; remember, it is strictly forbidden to accumulate oiled rags in production. The approach to designing the countertop (board, cover) of a universal workbench needs a different one based on what kind of work it is mainly used for - thin or rough, see below.

work bench

In the West, amateur / home workbenches with a type-setting worktop framed by a side are widespread. Drawings of such a "working bench" are given in fig. Under the locksmith, the lid is covered with a sheet of steel 1.5-2 mm thick and a vice is placed on the pillow.

The workbench dampens vibrations well; You can make it from pine or spruce. But the design is complicated, it is inconvenient to work with lengthy materials and furniture on such a workbench. Therefore, we will first look at how to make the most common carpenter's workbench, then garage and locksmith. Next, we will try to combine them into a universal workbench and see what we can come up with on this basis for special needs.

The composition of the workbench

The workbench of "our" type (conditionally, since it is impossible to establish its origin exactly) consists of:

  • Underwork (in carpentry workbenches), or bed (in metalwork), ensuring the stability of the entire unit and the ergonomics of the workplace.
  • Covers, box-shaped or in the form of a tray, giving the work area the necessary rigidity.
  • Shelves; possibly with a tray, nests, and stops on which work operations are performed.
  • The apron on which the tool is hung. The apron is not a mandatory accessory of the workbench, it can hang on the wall or be replaced by a pedestal, rack, etc.

Note: workbench height approx. 900 mm. The length and width are selected according to the place of installation and the type of work within 1200-2500 and 350-1000 mm, respectively.

A lid with a shelf is most often made at the same time, one-piece, and is simply called a lid, benchtop or tabletop. To dampen vibrations, the shelf is always made on the basis (bed, substrate) of wood. In a locksmith's workbench, the bed is covered with a steel sheet from 2 mm thick and can be made of coniferous wood. Its overall strength is sufficient, and the steel tire protects the tree from local damage and ingress of technical fluids. In a carpenter's workbench, a bed made of high-quality (without knots, strands, and other defects) solid small-layer wood (oak, beech, hornbeam, elm, walnut) serves at the same time as a shelf; -layer construction, see below.

The traditional construction of the bench, on the contrary, is collapsible from the same wood as the joiner's shelf. This comes from the master covens of the past, who transported their equipment from customer to customer on a cart. It is from the bed / underbench that you should start developing your workbench no worse, but simpler than traditional ones.

Bed: metal or wood?

A stationary wooden workbench has advantages over that on a steel frame, not only in lower cost and labor intensity. Wood, firstly, is not plastic. A workbench on a wooden base can be broken, but if the wood is used seasoned and impregnated, it will never buckle. Secondly, the tree perfectly dampens vibrations. The foundations of your buildings are not reinforced vibration-absorbing ones, like workshops at a factory, are they? And the overall strength and stability of the bed of a home workbench will be fully provided by coniferous commercial wood of ordinary quality.

The design of the wooden frame of the workbench made of boards 120x40 is shown on the left in fig. Permissible static load - 150 kgf; dynamic vertically down for 1 s - 600 kgf. Corner posts (legs) are assembled on self-tapping screws 6x70 in a zigzag (snake) with an indent from the edge of 30 mm and a step of 100-120 mm. Double-sided fastening; snakes on both sides of the package are conducted in mirror reflection. Intermediate support beams are fastened with steel corners on self-tapping screws; edge - with pairs of self-tapping screws at the spikes of the racks and, outside, with corners.

If a beam of 150x50 or (180…200)x60 is available, the design can be simplified, as shown in the center in fig. The bearing capacity will increase to 200/750 kgf. And from a bar 150x150, 150x75 and (180 ... 200) x60, you can build a frame that can carry 450 kgf in statics and 1200 in dynamics, on the right in Fig.

Note: any of these beds is suitable for both carpentry and locksmith workbenches. Under the carpentry, a box-shaped cover is placed on it (see below), and under the locksmith, a tray from a 60x60x4 corner with welded 4 mm strips above the intermediate beams. A wooden pillow is placed in the tray and covered with steel, also see below.

If there is no welding

An all-wood workbench, without the need for welding to manufacture it, can be made according to the scheme on the trail. rice. The “chip” here is in the tabletop, glued from a 75x50 bar and fastened with ties. If the beam is oak, then the permissible load is 400/1300 kgf. Corner posts - timber 150x150; the rest is timber 150x75.

Metal

It happens the other way around: metal is more accessible than wood, and there is welding. Then the workbench table for a load of 100/300 kgf can be assembled according to the drawing on the left in fig. Materials - corner 35x35x3 and 20x20x2. Drawers are galvanized. The disadvantage is that it is impossible to make an opening at the bottom for the legs, the structure will lose its ability to carry a dynamic load.

Under a load of 200/600, a more convenient metal workbench is suitable according to the scheme at the top right of a professional pipe 50x50 (corner posts), 30x30 (other vertical parts) and a corner 30x30x3. The plank cushion of both workbenches is laid only across (bottom right) from tongue-and-groove boards (120 ... 150) x40.

Shelf - steel 2 mm. The shelf is attached to the pillow with 4x (30 ... 35) self-tapping screws, a pair from each edge of each board, and along the extreme boards - with a step of (60 ... 70) mm. Only in this design, the workbench will show the specified load-bearing capacity.

These workbenches are already universal: under the carpentry, the lid is turned over with the wooden side up or adapted, as described below. The locksmith's vise is mounted on a wooden cushion, but is not fastened with a clamp. A collet anchor under the M10-M14 bolt is driven into the vice cushion from below, and a through hole is drilled under it in the cover. A washer from 60x2 is placed under the bolt head. This solution is convenient because it is possible to use inexpensive non-rotating vise.

For carpentry

The lid of the carpentry workbench, in contrast to the metalwork, is tightly attached to the workbench and is box-shaped, for general rigidity. The best mounting option for a non-separable workbench is steel corners and self-tapping screws. Podverstache can also be a steel bed from those described above.

How a traditional carpentry workbench is arranged is shown in pos. And rice; accessories to it in pos. B. The workbench (in this case, this is a separate device) is used to work with a long length. The emphasis in its groove is made from a wedged trimming of the board, see below. It is advisable to drill a longitudinal row of holes in the board and fasten it into the sockets with sunken cone-head bolts. The traditional construction of a carpentry underbench is shown in pos. G, but - see above.

The cover of the carpentry workbench can be made cheaper by making a 2-layer, pos. Q. Then high-quality hardwood boards will only be needed for a shelf. They lay it down, laying the boards with “peas” of annual layers alternately up and down, in order to avoid warping. The flooring of the shelf is first rallied with PVA glue or carpentry, tightly squeezing with a clamp or wrapping it with a cord; put on a pillow on the same glue. The skirt of the lid is assembled separately with glue and through spikes (insert at pos. B) and is attached to the pillow-shelf package with self-tapping screws.

Vice for carpentry

All-wood carpentry vices, front and chair, are now almost completely replaced by a vice with a metal screw clamp, pos. D; their device is shown in pos. E. Some remarks are needed here.

First, you need to put 2-3 steel washers under the head of the clamping screw, otherwise it will quickly eat through the pillow (4x4x1 cm piece of wood). Second - if the nut is not custom-made and not purchased shaped, then get at least for a while a set of taps for the thread used. In this case, do not try to use too thick a screw for evenness and smoothness of the clamp; M12-M16 is enough.

The nut of a home-made clamping pair is welded onto a base with a diameter of 60 mm or more, square, from 70x70 mm. It is not necessary to sink it into the clamp pad, so it is less likely that the nut will be torn off when clamping. But the thread will ugly lead away from welding, you can’t drive it away with a bolt. The thread of the welded nut will need to be tapped according to the full scheme, as when cutting: the first tap - the second - the third (if included in the kit).

Note: the nut welded on the base must be allowed to rest for at least 2 hours before the thread passes, so that the residual deformations “subside”.

Vice and carpentry for a locksmith

The vise on the locksmith's workbench is installed in the corner (see sidebar in the figure), so that as much as possible of the dynamic loads during metal processing falls vertically on corner post. The location of the cross beams and intermediate uprights It is advisable to make a workbench with a stationary vise a little asymmetrical, placing them at smaller intervals towards the corner with a vise. The installation of the vice is also carried out starting from the corner:

  • A collet anchor is driven into the wooden corner post under the mounting bolt, and a high nut or threaded sleeve is welded into the metal post (attachment point 1 at the bottom left in the figure);
  • If the fastener is welded, thread with taps, as in a homemade carpenter's vice nut, see above;
  • Put a vice temporarily on 1 bolt and mark holes for fixing points 2, 3 and 4 in place;
  • The vise is removed and through holes 2, 3 and 4 are drilled;
  • Put a vise on the bolts 1, 2 and 3;
  • For mounting on bolt 4, put under the cover (tabletop) a strut U from wooden beam from 60x60 or professional pipes from 40x40. It is not necessary to fix the jib, but it should rest from under the bottom against the upper frame (strap) of the bed, but not against the tabletop!
  • Attach the vise finally to the bolt 4.

Note: stationary power tools are also fixed in the same way, for example. emery.

Under the carpentry

The locksmith's workbench can also be adapted for carpentry work if you drill 2-4 pairs of holes in the table top for fixing the carpentry stop (on the right and in the center in the figure). In this case, round bosses are screwed to the bottom surface of the stop with self-tapping screws; plugs fit well plastic bottles, they withstand tight landings many times.

Garage workbench

It is impossible to make a workbench in the garage optimal in terms of ergonomics of the width of the workplace - the dimensions of a standard box 4x7 m with a car standing in it do not allow. For a long time, through trial and error, the width of the garage workbench was determined at 510 mm: it is quite convenient to turn between it and the hood, and you can more or less work. A narrow workbench under a heavy load (for example, a motor taken out for bulkhead) is unstable, so it is made attached to the wall. Often - angular, this increases stability, but any wall-mounted workbench "responds" stronger than a workbench-table of the same design

The scheme of the device of one section of the garage workbench is given in fig. In this design, an ingenious method of additional damping of vibrations is used: cells of the frames of the cover and the lower shelf of the edge farthest from the corner of different sizes. The accuracy of the installation of the crossbars is +/- 1 cm. For the same purpose, the cover and the lower shelf are made of chipboard 32 mm thick and covered with linoleum instead of steel. For garage work, its durability is sufficient; replaced without difficulty.

Fastening to the walls - self-tapping screws from 8 mm or bolts from M8 with a pitch of 250-350 mm. Deepening into a stone wall 70-80 mm; in wooden 120-130 mm. Propylene dowels are placed under the screws in the stone wall; for bolts - collet anchors.

More for the garage

Another version of the garage workbench is already on the wall, and on the wall, on the left in fig. It can only be mounted on stone walls. Bench board folding 2-layer; each layer of plywood 10-12mm. Opening under the machine with a stepped inner edge. In this case, a “milling cutter” means a mini-drilling machine with a movable rotary table and a workpiece clamp. The design is convenient in that the chips fall immediately onto the floor.

If your car is something like a Daewoo or Chery with a 3-cylinder engine, and the garage is very small, then you can put a folding mini workbench with a lifting tabletop in it, on the right in the figure; he will fit in the house for fine workmanship(electronics, precision mechanics). The tabletop is suspended on a piano hinge, the legs are on card hinges. For folding, the legs are tucked under the tabletop (it would be useful to tie them with a leg), and the tabletop is lowered.

Note: for a cramped garage with an ordinary city car, a folding workbench-box may be optimal, see the video below.

Video: folding workbench box


Home station wagon

At home, they are engaged in smaller, but painstaking technical creativity: soldering, modeling, watchmaking, artistic sawing plywood, etc. For fine fine work, a universal workbench is suitable, the drawings of which and its accessories are given in fig. The resistance of the work surface and its vibration absorption in this case are not as important as evenness, smoothness and some adhesion (“stickiness” of parts), so the table top is covered with linoleum. Locksmith vices for this workbench need small, with screw clamping.

More about plywood

In fact, it is undesirable to work with metal “roughly” on plywood, because. she calls back well. If, however, the pillow of the board of the locksmith's workbench is still made of plywood, then a frame (frame) must also be glued to its bottom on the PVA, also made of plywood, see fig. Then it is desirable to cover the upper (working side) first with unlined linoleum, and then lay steel on it.

To the rising shift

Another case where making a workbench out of plywood is justified is a student's workbench for a child. Pedagogical considerations play a role here: let him learn to feel the material and not to beat for nothing, but to work carefully. For the same purpose, the masters of the past deliberately gave students a bad instrument.

Workbenches in the country

When country house or others. light wooden the structure is still being built, there is no time for bench wisdom, at least something is needed on which simple carpentry work can be done. For such a case, hastily you can put together a carpentry workbench for giving from improvised materials, on the left in fig. The design is remarkable in that it clearly and fully embodies the principle: we do good things with bad equipment.

For subsequent work on the arrangement of the dacha, a mini-workbench is useful, on the right in fig. With a minimum consumption of material and an extremely simple design, it is stable enough for ordinary carpentry work in all respects, because. the middle of the workbench is supported by a pair of struts. If you put them on bolts, the workbench will turn out to be collapsible and stand in the pantry from weekend to weekend. For disassembly, after releasing the struts, the spacer is removed with them, and the legs are tucked under the board. Finally, for a dacha, inhabited permanently or all summer, with a master owner, by the way, you will have a more complex, but fully functional folding workbench, see the video below.

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