Imitation alarm. Burglar alarm simulator for a country house. What is a dummy

One of my employees, the owner of an inexpensive Mercedes Vito minibus, asked me to make a flashing red LED indicator, like a car alarm is working. Of course, there is nothing complicated here, and the first thing that came to mind was an ordinary multivibrator. However, imagining how I would have to cut, drill and solder the board, I decided to do it easier. How to fence the circuit, we use a special flashing LED.

Such an LED indicator looks like an exact copy of a regular LED with a constant glow, however, when power is applied to it, it starts flashing at a frequency of about 2 times per second. You can tell it apart with a multimeter. In the opposite direction, it will show a diode, with a typical voltage drop. And in the forward direction, little resistance.


A bit of theory. In the flashing LEDs there is a miniature chip consisting of a high-frequency master oscillator, in conjunction with which a divider on logic elements works, which divides the high frequency to a value of 1.5 - 3 Hz. This design is due to the fact that the implementation of a low-frequency generator requires the use of a capacitor with a large capacity for the timing circuit. And you would have to use a large semiconductor area for the capacitor, which will not fit into the LED case. In addition to the master oscillator and divider, the semiconductor substrate has an electronic switch and a protective diode. For flashing LEDs, designed for a supply voltage of 3-12 volts, a limiting resistor is also built in. Low-voltage ones do not have a limiting resistor. A protective diode is necessary to prevent failure of the microcircuit when the power is reversed.


To supply power to the car network (12V), a current-limiting resistor of 3-5 kOhm is required. By connecting a blinking LED, you can see that it consumes current not only at the moment of glow, but also during pauses - about 2 mA.


Next is the matter of technology. We take a pair of flexible stranded wires of different colors, so as not to confuse when connecting to the car's wiring, isolate the soldering points with heat-shrinkable cambric (or a simple one, although the first one is more reliable), and soldering the resistor and both wires, we put our circuit in one common thick cambric (PVC tube) .


Now it remains to find power in the car and fasten the wires to the plus and minus. In the same way, an imitation of both apartment and any other signaling is done. As practice shows, only one LED flasher already reduces the likelihood of theft. And if the car costs less than the alarm itself (Zaporozhets, Oka, bicycle) - there is no point in installing a full-fledged expensive car alarm.

Discuss the article SIMULATION OF THE CAR ALARM

Good car alarms like Convoy, Sheriff, Alligator, etc. cost a lot of money. But, having made a simple device (see diagrams), based on a multivibrator, you can easily imitate it and thereby reduce the likelihood of car theft by about 40-50%, or even more. After all, it is easier and safer for car thieves to “open” a car without signs of an alarm, and, unfortunately, there are enough of them.

Usually, on cars with an activated (switched on) alarm, a red, blue or green LED in the cabin flashes. It is usually installed somewhere on the front pillar of the passenger compartment. You can make such a device according to the following scheme.

Details in the simulator are not scarce, transistors can be used KT315, or KT815, KT972, electrolytic capacitors 50-100 uF 16 V, an AL307 LED and several resistors of 10 and 0.5 kOhm. Such radio components can be easily found in old TVs, printers and other devices.

By changing the capacitance of the capacitors, you can change the pause or the glow time of the LED (one is responsible for the pause, the second for the glow). The LEDs in this circuit light up smoothly and also smoothly go out. In my opinion, it is better to leave the glow time and pause symmetrical, i.e. put both capacitors at 100 uF.

The circuit starts working when powered from 3 volts, but it is better to power it from 9-12 V, then the LEDs will glow at maximum and the simulator will be more noticeable.

You can power it from an on-board battery or "Krona" 9 V, in the worst case, 2 batteries for 1.5 V. But! It is necessary to energize secretly, i.e. hide the wiring and the board and bring out only the LED, and not from the cigarette lighter, like some. Otherwise, the thief will immediately understand that this is a fake.

There are other options for blinkers, for example, based on an asymmetric multivibrator. The circuit is built on transistors of different conductivity. Unlike the previous version, this circuit is powered by one or 2 AA batteries, i.e. 1.5 -3 V and lasts for about six months. But, if desired, the device can be powered through a voltage divider and from an on-board 12 V battery.

It works a little differently than the previous circuit, the LED lights up with a flash and quickly goes out. As for me, the first option is more to my liking.

If the device is assembled according to the diagram, without errors, it works immediately and does not require any adjustment, except that you can adjust the blinking frequency if you wish. Transistors in this circuit are silicon, KT315 and KT361 with any letter values. The adjustment (generator frequency) can be changed within fairly large limits using R1 and C1.

But, when assembling, it must be taken into account that the capacitor C1 in this circuit must be of the KM type, that is, not electrolytic, not polar. The LED can be put in any color, but usually it is red or blue.

The circuit itself is economical and continues to work when the voltage drops to 1 volt. Such a simulator, due to its high efficiency, is often still used by radio amateurs and not only to "protect" apartments, country houses, garages, etc. For this purpose, there are more reliable options, such as GSM alarms, in more detail.

There are other schemes of simulators, they all work about the same, but the ones given here are tested and work 100%.

The alarm simulator circuits above are the so-called "passive" protection against theft or theft. Although these schemes are simple, it’s worth it to tinker and make a device, especially if your car is new and attractive, but you don’t want to spend money on a real alarm, or you don’t have the time or desire.

Flashing LEDs are used in various signal circuits, billboards and signs, electronic toys. The scope of their application is quite wide. A simple LED flasher can also be used to create a car alarm. I must say that the built-in microcircuit (CHIP) makes this semiconductor device blink. The main advantages of ready-made MSDs are: compactness and a variety of colors that allow you to colorfully design electronic devices, for example, an advertising board in order to attract the attention of buyers.

But you can make a blinking LED yourself. Using simple schemes, this is easy to do. How to make a flasher with little skills in working with semiconductor elements is described in this article.

Flashers on transistors

The simplest option is an LED flasher on a single transistor. It can be seen from the diagram that the base of the transistor is hanging in the air. Such a non-standard inclusion allows it to work like a dinistor.

When the threshold value is reached, a breakdown of the structure occurs, the transistor opens and the capacitor discharges to the LED. Such a simple flasher on a transistor can be used in everyday life, for example, in a small Christmas tree garland. For its manufacture, quite affordable and inexpensive radioelements will be needed. A hand-made LED flasher will add a little charm to the fluffy New Year's beauty.

You can assemble a similar device already on two transistors, taking parts from any radio equipment that has served its time. The scheme of the flasher is shown in the figure.


For assembly you will need:

  • resistor R = 6.8–15 kOhm - 2 pieces;
  • resistor R = 470–680 Ohm - 2 pieces;
  • n-p-n-type transistor KT315 B - 2 pieces;
  • capacitor C \u003d 47-100 uF - 2 pieces;
  • low power LED or LED strip.

Operating voltage range 3-12 volts. Any power supply with these parameters will do. The blinking effect in this circuit is achieved by alternately charging and discharging the capacitors, which entails the opening of transistors, as a result of which current appears and disappears in the LED circuit.

Blinking LEDs can be obtained by connecting the leads to several multi-colored elements. The built-in generator produces pulses for each color in turn. The frequency of the blinking pulse depends on the set program. You can please a child with such cheerful blinking if you install the device in a children's toy, for example, a car.

A good option is to take a three-color flashing LED that has four outputs (one common anode or cathode and three color control outputs).

Another simple option, for the assembly of which you will need CR2032 batteries and a resistor with a resistance of 150 to 240 ohms. A flashing LED will turn out if you connect all the elements in series in one circuit, observing the polarity.


If you manage to assemble funny lights according to the simplest scheme, you can move on to a more complex design.


This LED flasher circuit works as follows: when voltage is applied to R1 and capacitor C1 is charged, the voltage increases on it. After it reaches 12 V, the p-n junction of the transistor breaks down, which increases the conductivity and causes the LED to glow. When the voltage drops, the transistor closes, and the process starts again. All blocks operate at approximately the same frequency, if you do not take into account a small error. A circuit for a five-block LED flasher can be assembled on a breadboard.

Often, in order to scare off intruders from their car, their owners use car alarm simulators. These devices are a flashing LED mounted on the windshield. Schemes of such devices on the Internet and the relevant literature can be found quite a few. The disadvantage inherent in most of these car alarm simulators is that the LED in these devices blinks continuously at a given frequency.
However, in modern car alarms, the indicator light does not just flash continuously, but flashes strictly according to a certain algorithm. First, there are several short flashes of the LED, followed by a pause. Then the cycle consisting of flashes (usually three) and the pause following it is repeated. The proposed car alarm simulator works exactly according to such an algorithm, and it is practically impossible to distinguish its operation from the operation of a real car alarm.
Consider the scheme of this device

The simulator consists of two generators of rectangular pulses assembled on the logic elements of the DD1 K561LE5 microcircuit. At the same time, the generator assembled on the elements DD1.1 and DD1.2 controls the operation of the generator assembled on the elements DD1.3 and DD1.4 of the K561LE5 chip. The generator on the elements DD1.3 and DD1.4 generates pulses for the HL1 LED necessary for blinking. Thanks to the chain consisting of a VD2 diode and a resistor R4, it is possible to regulate the duty cycle of the pulses generated by this generator. As a result of this, at the output 11 DD1.4 we get short rectangular pulses, which are fed through the resistor R5 to the base of the transistor VT1 and open it. As a result, the HL1 LED starts flashing with short flashes. Resistor R6 can adjust the brightness of the LED flashes.
The pulse generator assembled on the elements DD1.1 and DD1.2 forms a pause between series of flashes of the HL1 LED. When a high level is set at its output 4 DD1.2, this level is fed to the input 13 DD1.4, as a result of this, the operation of the generator on the elements DD1.3 and DD1.4, which forms the flashes of the LED, stops. And there is a pause in the blinking of the LED. The values ​​of the resistor R2 and the capacitor C2 of the generator forming the pause are selected so that the LED has time to blink 3 times, followed by a pause in the blinking of the HL1 LED. Any bright blue or red LED can be used as this LED.
The zener diode VD1 protects the microcircuit from damage in the event of a power surge in the car's on-board network. When the voltage in the on-board network is normal, and does not exceed 15 volts, it is closed. In the event of a power surge, it opens and limits the voltage at the power inputs of the microcircuit to 15 volts. This mode of operation of the zener diode reduces the power consumption of the device. Since current will flow through the zener diode only at those moments when the voltage in the on-board network becomes higher than normal.
The device was assembled on a fiberglass board measuring 18mm * 50mm

PVC tubes are put on the LED leads to prevent them from shorting to each other.

How the car alarm simulator works can be seen on the video

The device can be connected to the car's on-board network through the cigarette lighter. Or simply connect the car alarm simulator with two wires to the car's on-board network by including a toggle switch or any other switch in the gap of one of the wires.

The protection of personal property is an issue that is relevant at any time of the year. From time immemorial, and in any economic system, there are people in society who try to live off theft and theft. To protect your property, you have to resort to expensive tricks, hire security or install an alarm. It's great if the financial possibilities allow it. And if not, people's ingenuity and the ability to hold simple tools in their hands come to the rescue. dummies for dachas, garages and other premises are not so difficult to make.

What is a burglar alarm used for?

A burglar alarm dummy is a device that does not differ in appearance from a real alarm. Consists of housing, LED and battery.

Different types of security cameras

Surveillance cameras are used in security equipment to protect objects from unauthorized entry and to record events taking place in a protected area. Along with sensors that respond to the opening of doors and windows, capacitive motion and tracking sensors, cameras provide visual control. Modern devices are able to detect movement not only during daylight hours, but also at night, using infrared imaging. Every year the technology improves, the dimensions of the cameras decrease, and the resolution increases.

But all these achievements in the field of high technologies are inaccessible to the average layman. The cost of such devices is too high to be used on the scale of a country cottage or in a garage cooperative, where petty thieves pick up everything that is “wrong” or get inside the house, “accidentally” breaking a window and then declaring that it was so .

As in any war, the one who manages to outwit the enemy wins.

And this is where illusion comes in. After all, a thief cannot know for sure what surprises await him inside the house. Before trying to break out a lock or a window, he will look around more than once - after all, no one has yet canceled the punishment for theft and breaking. Noticing that a camera is hanging on the house, the indicator of which is blinking cheerfully, he will once again think about whether to go looking for more accessible prey.

Of course, on the other hand, the presence of a camera may suggest that there really is something valuable in the house (since even the camera was not stingy). But in order to test this idea, it is necessary to carry out additional work - to collect information, analyze the "state" of the owners, etc. In any case, the attempt on the “object” will be postponed indefinitely.

In order to deepen the doubts that have arisen, in addition to the dummy camera, you can create additional confirmation of the seriousness of the protection - nameplates warning the "passerby" that the object is under protection, symbols of the howler in the background, etc. Quite effective is the mysterious and unsettling shimmer that breaks through the curtains under the cover of night.

CCTV Warning Sign

The creation of such effects is a creative occupation and, in the end, the entourage can play its decisive role, catching up mystical horror on the “gentleman of fortune”.

Technical support, with modern high-capacity rechargeable batteries, is not a big problem. A dummy security camera costs quite democratic money, because it is just an exact imitation of the body, equipped with a single device - a red LED powered by a finger-type battery.

The same pulsating LED can also be placed inside the house; to assemble it, you will need old Chinese clocks, a red or purple LED (preferably one that consumes less electrical energy, which means it will work longer) and a soldering iron. The detailed assembly algorithm is described below.

Pros and cons of an alarm simulator in the country and for other purposes

The advantages of dummy equipment are obvious

  • financial availability. The purchase of such equipment will require no more than 5-10 dollars.
  • Guaranteed result. If we consider the risks of intrusion in the absence of any signs of an alarm, then they are much higher than the possibility of an attempt on a home with connected, even fake, cameras.
  • Can serve as a good addition to an actual security system located inside the house, such as a notification system using a cell phone or turning on a howler.
  • Ease of installation. To mount and strengthen the camera on the house on their own is within the power of any adult man.

Cons of simulation equipment.

Of course, the main disadvantage is also understandable. It consists in the fact that this design will not be able to provide serious resistance to theft. If a really seasoned criminal gathers to get inside the house, he will do it sooner or later.

How to make a dummy with a flashing LED with your own hands

If you don’t mind sacrificing a simple electric alarm clock and a few hours of time, you can assemble a device that looks very much like a real alarm.


Very inexpensive electronic watch

To do this, you need to disassemble the clock. Remove the protective cover and get to the electronic board that creates and sends current pulses to the stepper mechanism. It looks like this.


The electronic board that controls the clockwork

The numbers in the figure indicate:

  • 1,2 - outputs to the stepper mechanism
  • 3 - contact for activation of sound alarm (alarm clock)
  • 4 - negative terminal
  • 5 - positive terminal
  • 6 and 7 - alarm power terminals

Of course, the alarm clock turns off as unnecessary, and all attention is concentrated on terminals 1, 4 and 5. Using a heated soldering iron, you need to assemble such a circuit.

Scheme of connecting the LED to the alarm clock board

In fact, the task is to connect an LED and another battery identical to the one that powers the clock to the existing circuit. You can use a cassette from an old flashlight designed for several power cells, or you can connect two batteries into one by soldering metal jumpers to them.

Convenient cassette for connecting AA batteries into a single unit

Since the circuit will be used non-stop, it does not need a power switch.

As soon as the batteries are connected, the LED will start to light up and go out at a frequency of 0.5 Hz., That is, 2 times per second.

Now all this “device” needs to be properly placed in the house before leaving. Mice, of course, are not terrible for him, but it is better if the container is relatively airtight. This will greatly extend the life of the batteries. One option is a glass liter jar with a nylon lid. Among other things, the glass will create an additional light amplification of the "signal".

Based on the logic of the alarm installation, you need to place the jar somewhere at chest level, but in such a way that the light pulsation is clearly visible through the window curtains.

If you have a case from an old security camera, the mechanism can be mounted into it by bringing the LED to its regular place. The camera is located, most often, on the ceiling inside the house (on the line of the front door) or on the wall outside.

At work, I had to visit one state structure (budgetary sphere) in their corridor there were a lot of flowers in pots and even in tubs still Soviet, there were 6 stands with announcements on the walls. So they had a very big problem - these are dissatisfied visitors and just vandals. Stands constantly had to be repaired and updated, some flowers looked just awful and there was no management for these things, even just to put a person down and then they wouldn’t keep track. I advised to buy such a dummy for the supply manager. They didn’t buy it right away, but then they hung it in a corner and wrote an announcement that video surveillance was underway and since the institution was state-owned, the records with the application would be transferred to the relevant authorities ... And the funny thing is that everything almost immediately became normal with order in the institution) ))

panwawan

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Video: burglar alarm simulator

Video: Setting Up a Burglar Simulator

How long will the mold last

The lifetime of the simulator is directly dependent on the power supply. A finger-type AA battery, in the constant power mode of the LED, can last from 6 to 9 months. There are frost-resistant types of such batteries, the price of which is somewhat higher, but the chances that the battery will “leak” at the first serious frost are much less. In addition, different LEDs consume different amounts of electricity. This must be taken into account when purchasing them in a store. The white LED consumes the most current. The least purple.


High-quality batteries significantly increase the service life of the device

Despite all the optimism when installing an imitation model, one should still remember that "God saves the safe." Leaving the cottage in the fall, do not leave valuable items there. It is better to play it safe and take them with you until the next season. If this is not possible, then try to hide everything you need in hard-to-reach places, such as an attic or a securely locked cellar.