How to properly disassemble and prepare radio-technical parts for purchase. Scrap radio components - varieties, description, average prices Generator lamps of the GI, GMI, GS, GU series

Where can I get radio parts for free? This question is asked by beginner electronic engineers, especially schoolchildren and poor students.

Nowadays, free cheese is only in a mousetrap. But! Do not despair! I think you all know where you can find free radio components. Yes ... Russian garbage dumps and landfills! The richest places where you can profit from radio components for free). Basically, old kinescope TVs and monitors, antediluvian VCRs, as well as LCD monitors are already being thrown away. Sometimes you don't even have to go far. Often this good can be found right next to the garbage containers in your yards.

I have a couple of VCRs lying around in the attic. They lay for a very long time. While I'm on vacation, I decided to dismantle them and tear off some radio elements. And what kind of radio elements are better to rip off from old technology, we will talk about this in this article.

To dismantle the radio elements, we need:

Soldering iron suction. Very handy Chinese device. With it, in a matter of seconds, you can dismantle any radio trinket. Immediately warms and sucks:

If you don’t have such a cool tool, then you can just buy a desoldering pump. At a price it is several times cheaper, but in the other hand you will have to hold a soldering iron. That is, both hands will be occupied. Agree, no ice.

For aesthetes, a dismantling gun will be very good. I pressed the button, the solder sucked. But again, the price of high-quality dismantling pistols is not for our ordinary electronics engineer.

And of course, without a soldering iron, we have nothing to do! It is desirable that the soldering iron was more powerful, but not 100 watt, of course.

And here is our client. Cassette VCR

First of all, we cut or solder the power cord. In radio stores, zero costs from 50 rubles.

We open the giblets of the mafon and immediately notice what you can profit from:

The first step is to move the wires. I think they'll come in handy.

We unhook the wire connectors, and where it does not unhook, we cut it off with scissors. Wow, nice trophy

To make it more convenient to dismantle the equipment, you should start with large-sized products. We remove the radiator and hide it in the stash.

Next, take out the power supply board. A good profit for us will be a transformer. In radio stores, such a trance costs from 200 rubles.

It is very convenient to remove solder residues after desoldering using a copper braid

For the same purpose, a screen from a TV cable or other shielded cables is suitable.

So, what kind of small things is it desirable to rip off the boards? I basically rip off:

– network transformers. The larger, the better.

- circuit breakers

– Diodes, LEDs and diode bridges

– pushbuttons and other switching products

- almost all transistors and other three-terminal elements

– electrolytic capacitors of good capacities

– various tuning and variable resistors

- some types of inductors

– rare and exclusive radio components

I don’t rip off microcircuits in modern radio equipment, as they are “sharpened” for certain specific tasks, such as a color module, a power controller, etc. I think you understand. Here is an example of what I ripped off the tape recorder board:

There is no point in soldering other small things such as resistors, small capacitance capacitors, diodes. They are easier and cheaper to buy on Aliexpress at once with a whole set.

Having also disassembled the video recorder, I found a good engine from which you can build a mini-drill with your own hands

Well, it was not in vain that the whole evening was spent. In the stash of radioelements, a little more was added and a couple of hundreds of rubles saved). I think radio components will come in handy in the near future. After soldering, they can be sorted. When you take the radio components from the stash, do not forget to check them for operability, otherwise you risk inserting a defective radio element into the circuit.

If you've watched the Futurama animated series, you may remember how robot Bender became greedy and sold his titanium body when prices skyrocketed. So, it is this episode that I remember when I rent radio components for purchase.

For those who are not in the subject.

Almost any electronic component, be it a transistor or a microcircuit, contains precious metals: gold, silver, platinum, palladium, iridium, etc. These metals can be extracted from used and old radio components and then reused.

Fortunately, several printed circuit boards with "gold" microcircuits and a different radiogram fell into my hands. Before that, I was not interested in the delivery of radio components, and I did not see gilded mikruhs in my eyes. A large number of I do not need morally obsolete and the same type of radio components, and I decided to hand them over. Well, and, thereby, earn some extra money. So I became a radio vandal and went over to the side of evil.

Here's the pay.

Let's take a closer look...

In the photo - an integrated stabilizer, a KR142EN1B microcircuit in a case made of "pink" ceramics with gilding! It is from such chips that gold can be mined, which is why they are accepted for processing.

What radio components contain gold?

Chips containing gold are not common, but they can still be found in old radio equipment. I will show only a few of them.

These are "pink jackets" - 514ID2 decoders (analogous to K514ID2) with gilded leads. The markings show that they were made in 1992.

These 514ID1 decoders will already be older, namely, "born" in 1988. More gold on them. Look at the "belly".

This is how the gold chips of the 564 series (K564) look like. In this photo: Arithmetic logic unit - microcircuit 564IP3 (analogous to K564IP3) and adder 564IM1 (1KIM1).

Chips 564LS2 (K564LS2). The film on the terminals is varnish. They buy them at a price of about 15 - 20 rubles a piece.

Rigid logic detachment - microcircuits 564LE5 (1KLE5). They have golden legs and belly. On the market they are accepted for 10-12 rubles a piece. By the way, microcircuits in such cases are quite compact, they can be used in makeshift designs. It will come out expensive and angry.

This is how the microcircuits 564LE5, 564LP2, 564TM2, 1KLA8 (564LA8), 564LA7 (1KLA7), 1KLA9 look like in a "golden box" type case.

For those who do not know, the K564 (564), K176, K561, K1561 series microcircuits are analogues. Produced in various cases. For example, I saw the K176LA7 chip only in a plastic case. And I saw its analogue 1KLA7 (aka 564LA7, K564LA7) both in plastic and in a metal case with gold leads.

In general, as I understand it, microcircuits of the K564 series of military acceptance are marked without the first letter K.

Logic circuits 109LI1. This is a 6-input "AND" element for working on a low-resistance load.

In Soviet times, precious metals were not spared for the production of electronic components, especially for special-purpose electronics. Then, as now, there was documentation for every type of electronic product. It indicated which metals, and in what quantity, go to the production of one element.

If someone has preserved an old domestic tape recorder (for example, "Romance"), then in the instructions for it you can find a page with a table. It indicates the content and amount of precious metals in the filling of this device.

Subsequently, this facilitated the "assessment" of the product accepted for processing. That is why buyers prefer the details of the Soviet period, they treat imports with a slight distrust.

Where can I donate radio components?

You can hand over radio components for scrap at any radio market. Surely you have already seen signs like "I will buy radio components expensively." Bring your good to the buyer (there is one on every radio market), he announces the price of 1 unit for each type of radio components. If the price suits you, then give your goods to the buyer, he considers or weighs. In return, you get cash (i.e. cash). Such is the scheme. You can also send parcels with parts by mail to special companies, but I have not tried it.

What do you think the buyers of radio components love the most? Transistors? No. Microcircuits? Nope. And what?! They love ordinary ceramic capacitors of the KM4, KM5, KM6 series.

The fact is that these capacitors contain platinum and palladium in sufficient quantities. One kilogram of KM capacitors costs around several tens of thousands of rubles!

This is what KM5 capacitors look like.

Also valued "mushrooms", KM6 capacitors orange color. I handed over the ones in the photo and the buyer took them without question. But it is worthwhile to understand that with incomprehensible markings, even such capacitors may not be taken. For example, I saw capacitors of similar color in Chinese amplifiers.

Capacitors take on weight and without leads (bite off). Even if you have 20 grams, they will weigh and buy. They say that the more you bring, the higher the price will be given for 1 gram. To be honest, I don't believe in it. It all depends on the buyer and price "collusion" in the radio market. All buyers in the market know each other and there is a certain agreement between them. As they explained to me, they all hand over the purchased parts to one person who regularly comes and buys all the goods already in bulk.

The scheme of such a business is quite simple. You buy at retail at a low price, then you sell in bulk to a company representative from a refinery. You make money on the difference. Something like this.

In any case, when handing over radio components, you need to understand that their cost depends not only on the price of the precious metal on the London Stock Exchange and the dollar exchange rate on a particular day, but also on buyers. And they also want to live. This is their business. Therefore, before handing over your goods in the first stall of a buyer, I advise you to go over the radio market and find out the prices for what you have. For example, I have identified a whole "network" of buyers who accept parts very cheaply.

If a school course chemistry was not in vain for you, then a completely logical thought will hit your head: “Why not extract precious metals from radio components and sell them yourself?”. As far as I know, you can get ata ta for this. The fact is that violation of the rules for the delivery of precious metals to the state is punishable by Article 192 of the Criminal Code of the Russian Federation (Chapter 22).

The list of radio-electronic products that are accepted for processing (buying up) is quite large. These are relays, and transistors, and switches, toggle switches, capacitors, variable resistors, rheostats, indicators, radio tubes, and even printed circuit boards! Anything that contains precious metals in sufficient quantities. But in most cases, these are, as a rule, radio components produced during the Soviet Union.

At the end of this story, I will note.

I do not welcome radio vandalism. After the collapse of the union, a fever began to "destroy" the Soviet heritage. Electronic equipment also fell under this rink. Many then made big money on the retail purchase and wholesale of parts containing precious metals. Many years have passed since then, but the business of buying radio components is still alive.

I am for proper disposal. Electronics is a storehouse of precious metals and rare chemical elements. I am pleased that even on the old junk, which is usually thrown into a landfill, you can make some money. The money received can be used to buy more necessary parts.

Analysis of radio components much more profitable than selling them entirely. But we are talking exclusively about certain radio components that can be disassembled at home using the simplest tools.
A detailed description of the connectors can be found here: "Types of connectors".
Connector disassembly- the first thing I would like to talk about in our article.
Let's start by dividing into two groups: plug and socket (more often in people's speech professionally engaged in radio components - dad and mom).

The plug consists of pins coated with gold, palladium or silver.
There are also connectors in shape: 1) round SHR; 2 ) Rectangular SNP , ONP , SNO , RPPM ; 3) square beds; RPKM, RPM; 4)lamellas, connecting contacts located on the board itself, in the form of contact soldering.

If we are talking about the content, then the richest content is in connectors with a large number of contact legs, the plug usually contains 1.5-2 times less precious metals than the socket.
Back to the topic, if you want to get more money, then it is advantageous to deal with connectors with gold and palladium contacts.
And from this variety it is worth understanding only the ShR and local ones, since you will spend only time on all the others, and if you do not have the necessary tools, you will have to purchase them. Why spend money and earn less?
Things are different with SHR connectors: they all have a different number of pins, both in plugs and in sockets, there is no single exit for them, but there is one for one leg. From here, knowing how much content per pin in SHR, we can calculate how much gold is in a kilogram.
To do this, using a hacksaw for metal, or better with a chisel and a hammer, you need to split the aluminum ring of the connector, then pull out the contacts from the textolite substrate. Be sure, do not forget about the black rubber gasket, which must be removed from the contact group.
Local connectors - their contacts are partially covered with gold directly in the connector , and the part of the attachment to the board is white .
One gets the feeling that they were dipped in gold.
These connectors must be disassembled as follows: in order to remove the plastic on the mothers, it is necessary unfasten the latches located at the bottom of the connector, then simply pull out the contact part on a soft platform, things are more difficult with dads, they must be dealt with exclusively by breaking or sawing local connectors.

Of course, buyers of radio components accept them in an unassembled state, but their prices will be much lower. If you have there are several connectors, you should not do such a huge amount of work, but if the bill goes to hundreds or thousands, you will definitely get a tangible amount of profit.


If we are talking about resistors like: PP3, SP5, PTP, PLP, PPML, then the game is worth the candle. Let's start with PTP and PLP with any numbers, the number of ohms of resistance plays a decisive role. Learn more about "potentiometers and resistors". The internal structure of the PTP and PLP, is a wire wound on a core, along which a slider walks. Wire is the most valuable thing in these potentiometers, its composition is from 60 to 80% palladium. The number of ohms determines the number of turns and the thickness of the wire, the smaller the ohm, the more profitable the wire, the smaller the ohm, the thinner the wire.
Sp5 come in different sizes and different shapes, the most valuable are rectangular ones, in which a contact with a high content of palladium in its composition goes along the rheostat. SP5 square-shaped resistors have a contact fuse on the disk, which is located at the bottom of the product. Itself is smelted and contains a palladium alloy. There are also SP5 resistors resembling PP3 in shape and color, we will talk about them below.

Pp3- a resistor enclosed in a textolite case, rings are removed from this product, which also contain Pd in ​​their composition. If there is a rhombus on the body, then this product contains 2 rings, to be convincing, try to burn the rings with a burner, if it does not darken after heating, then this is exactly the ring.
PPML - potentiometer, which in its composition has a gold contact, and also often when parsing PPML can be found valuable wire. If the marking is handwritten on the case, then you don't need to be embarrassed, you should burn it once again and make sure that you are on the right track.


Primarily analysis of resistors shows that it is more profitable to tinker with them than to hand them over by the piece. Many buyers radio components are thrown back a large percentage for the analysis of these products, and the people who turn them in are often deceived by them.

Rheochords- products about which you can say for sure "they are worth disassembling", the thing is that no company has specific information or information about them, and the output from these products can vary from 0.1 to 3 grams, why lose your money ? One of the simplest parts for analysis.
Reochords (reochords) are a piece of copper wire with a winding, thin palladium around it. To remove it from the copper core, you just need to unwind the pd wire, which can be done with just your hands. But do not forget that any buyer, before purchasing it, will check it on the burner, so as not to get into an awkward situation, it is worth checking the wire at home, in the same way as PP3 rings.


These recommendations are not binding, but for large volumes, disassembling radio components will definitely play into your hands. We accept radio components in any shape and form.
If you want to take advantage our services, you will need to go to the section "

Some firms dispose of many devices or parts of them, sometimes even in working order, mainly for purely economic reasons. Usually these are outdated models or equipment, the repair of which will require too high a cost.

It is better to store such boards without dismantling them in order to use them as needed as a bank of parts. It makes no sense to dismantle all the parts if you are not sure that they will ever come in handy. On the other hand, if some of the parts are removed and the others are thrown away along with the board, you can regret it after a while.

In practice, it is permissible to use everything that is located on the printed circuit board, as well as external elements: cooling radiators, fans, power cords, connectors and switches. Of course, it is hardly worth removing resistors and other cheap components.

In the presence of a protective varnish in the circuits of a special design, the desoldering operation becomes more complicated, as well as when working with double-sided printed circuit boards. In these cases, it is better to refuse to dismantle the components.

Dismantling of large components

Dismantling large components with a large number of terminals, in particular transformers, for later use is sometimes a difficult task. It can be made easier if you cut the PCB around the pins so as to bypass all the contact pads (Fig. 1). Then it is enough to heat them and thereby release the corresponding conclusions.

Rice. 1. Dismantling the transformer

When replacing failed multi-pin radio elements (microcircuits, loop coils, small-sized transformers and other parts with several leads), the following mistake is often made: by continuously heating the contacts, tilt the part to be soldered to the sides and gradually pull it out of the printed circuit board sockets. In this case, the printed wiring foil peels off and, as a result, the printed circuit board of the repaired radio equipment is damaged. It is advisable to use suction or a braid to remove solder (see below).

Making a solder suction

A special soldering iron with solder suction, used for desoldering components, is extremely expensive, so its purchase is justified only in case of intensive repair work.

The necessary device is easy to do with your own hands. To do this, you need a small compressor with a suction inlet. To turn on the compressor, it is convenient to use the pedal. Then the hands will remain free to work. A small diameter plastic tube, similar to aquarium aeration tubes, can be used to suck up solder. Its end is put on a rigid metal tube or on a hollow RCA connector, from which the plastic cover is removed (Fig. 2).

Rice. 2. Suction for solder

Now the desoldering process will go easily: the solder is heated with a soldering iron and sucked into the tube by suction. When the tip is clogged, it is enough to heat it and tap on the table to shake out the contents. You can also work with a small piece of plastic tubing inserted into a larger diameter tubing and cut it off as you use it (tubes used in medical applications, such as blood transfusions, will do).

Using the Dismantling Tube

You can solder each contact of the component to be dismantled separately using a simple fixture(Fig. 3). It is a tube with a diameter of 1 mm, made of metal that is poorly serviced (for example, stainless steel or aluminum). The wall thickness of the tube must not exceed 0.2 mm, otherwise it will not pass between the contact and the hole in the board.

To solder the contact, put a tube on it and warm it up well with a soldering iron. The tube, rotating, is introduced into the gap between the contact and the walls of the hole. After the solder has hardened, the tube is carefully removed. As a result, a multi-pin radio element or a small-sized transformer is easily removed, and the printed wiring foil and the soldered radio element are not damaged.

A needle from a medical syringe can also be used to extract chips from printed circuit boards. The use of nozzles for soldering irons in this case is ineffective, since the microcircuit leads often overheat, as well as peeling the conductive track from the board. With a needle, it is much easier to remove the microcircuit: overheating is eliminated, and the holes in the board remain clean, which allows you to immediately proceed to installing a new microcircuit.

This will require a needle, the hole diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the microcircuit pins. The end of the needle is ground at a right angle, to the base of a pointed bevel, and a piece of plastic tube is put on the other end. The needle is placed on the protruding output of the microcircuit, and the solder near the output is heated with a soldering iron, while simultaneously pressing on the needle. In this case, the needle enters the hole of the printed circuit board, separating the contact pad from the output of the microcircuit. Since the needle is made of stainless steel, it does not tin and solder does not stick to it. At the same time, the needle removes heat from the output of the microcircuit during soldering warm-up.

Rice. 3. A device for desoldering electrical radio elements from a printed circuit board

After the solder hardens, the needle is removed from the output and put on the next one. Thus, in turn, all the conclusions of the microcircuit are released from the connection with the board with their minimum and short-term heating.

Using a set of needles of different diameters, it is possible to solder not only microcircuits, but also other elements from printed circuit boards, ensuring the integrity of the contact tracks of the board. Solder that has got inside the needle can be easily removed by heating the needle with a soldering iron and at the same time blowing it through the tube.

Using Braid to Remove Solder

Radio amateurs and specialists working in small repair shops prefer to remove solder using a mesh. Indeed, with rare use, it is inexpensive and easy to use if you follow some simple rules.

For the dismantling of medium-sized components, a tinned mesh with a small width (2 mm) is better suited. The used end of the mesh is regularly cut off to take full advantage of the capillary effect. This technology requires some skill, since you have to tear off the component lead from the walls of the holes, while simultaneously supporting the grid and guiding the soldering iron tip. If the solder does not come off, you may need to add a small amount of solder. The added solder will mix with the residue and draw it to the mesh.

When dismantling unified coils, low-frequency transformers, etc., whose frames are made of polystyrene, you can use a piece of metal braid removed from a shielded wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm. The braid is applied to the place of soldering from the side of the printed conductors and the tip of the heated soldering iron is pressed tightly against it. The melted solder is absorbed by the braid, and the lead of the part is released. For better absorption of solder, it is recommended to impregnate the braid with rosin or rosin flux. The used part of the braid is cut off after each soldering. Having freed all the leads from solder, the part is easily removed from the board.

Component Replacement

If you need to replace a failed part (resistor, capacitor, transistor, etc.), you should not solder it out of the board, as this can lead to delamination of the printed conductors from the base. The conclusions of the damaged part must be carefully cut with wire cutters so that the ends of the board are 8-10 mm long. They soldered a working part to them. You need to solder a new part quickly, avoiding overheating of the soldering place, otherwise the printed conductor may burn out. For a new part installed on the board, the length of the leads should be minimal, but sufficient so that it does not touch other parts.

It is very important that soldering in all cases is carried out with a soldering iron with a power of no more than 50 watts. Before soldering, the equipment must be disconnected from the mains, since sometimes the soldering iron can be shorted to the case. In this case, it is possible to short circuit the network through the body of the soldering iron and printed conductors, which will lead to burnout of the printed layer.

Dismantling of microcircuits

It is convenient to solder planar microcircuits by threading a thread under one row of legs and securing it on one side. Then, while heating the paws, pull the other end of the thread. Thus, under some pressure, the legs, one by one, will neatly separate from the board.

If the board itself or the base is no longer required, then you can desolder the microcircuit by heating the board over an electric stove or gas burner from the side of the conductors. This requires some skill and caution. However, this method is very convenient for removing all parts from the board.

When dismantling microcircuits soldered into printed circuit boards, the soldering iron must be small, with a power of no more than 40 W, with a tip heating temperature of no more than 200 ° C, with a nozzle. The nozzle has two wide stings that are pressed against the rows of soldered microcircuit pins. It is screwed onto the threads on the tip of the soldering iron. The solder should have a low melting point, the amount of soldering should be minimal. Soldering should be done for a few seconds with the soldering iron turned off.