Cutting logs into boards at home. The main types and methods of cutting wood. Sawing lumber Cutting logs on a band sawmill

To obtain lumber, logs are cut, that is, they are divided along the axis into parts with rip saws (frame, round and band saws). In this case, sawing is carried out either with one saw or with a group of saws.

In the second case, at least two saws are involved in the work, sometimes their number is brought up to 16 ... 20. This method is called group sawing. Group sawing is typical for sawmill frames, less often for circular saws.

If only one cut is made during sawing and only one part of the log is separated, such sawing is called individual sawing. By this method, band saws or circular saws are used.

Individual sawing allows you to better use the wood, taking into account the characteristics of the various parts of the log.

Group sawing is used for raw materials of small and medium diameters, homogeneous in structure and of little value (coniferous and soft hardwoods).

The cuts in the log can be located either parallel to the wood fibers, which corresponds to the direction of the generatrix of the log (along the run), or, most often, at some angle to the direction of the fibers and parallel to the axis of the log (typical for group sawing).

In relation to the annual layers, the cuts can be radially directed, tangential to the annual layers, or occupy an intermediate position.

Sawing with a strictly defined direction of cuts is called oriented. Oriented sawn timber gets various additional properties (radial sawn timber - higher quality). The direction of the cuts can be a significant additional factor in improving the quality of lumber. The highest yield of oriented sawn lumber can be obtained with an individual cutting method.

The choice and justification of one or another method of sawing round timber is determined by economic indicators. The most important of them is the output of the final product.

The output of sawn products is understood as the ratio of the volume of products received to the volume of raw materials spent on it:

where is the output coefficient of finished products;

Lumber output percentage;

The volume of products obtained from raw materials;

The volume of raw materials spent on the production of this product.

Cutting logs into lumber is carried out by a set of cuts. It is easy to represent it as a projection of a log on a plane perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the log. The log is taken as a regular geometric body rotating around an axis.

The main methods of cutting timber for sawn timber (Fig. 5):

    breakup;

    lumber (beam-breakup);

    segment;

    sector;

    circular.

Sawing in the breakup method is carried out with cuts parallel to the planes, it turns out not edged boards, while the average - radial sawing; extreme lateral - tangential, the rest - mixed, slabs and technological chips. Waddle sawing is used to obtain unedged boards of relatively short lengths, blanks for the production of edged boards of thin logs, since other methods give a strong reduction in the width of the boards.

It is characteristic that when cutting unedged boards occupying the same place in the cutting pattern, the practical width of the board will be different (the so-called “scattering”) due to the irregular shape of the logs, the inaccuracy of cutting the boards and the selection of logs in the set.

Rice. 5. Ways of cutting logs: 1 - breakup; 2 - beam breakup; 3 - segment; 4 - sector; 5 - circular

For this reason, it is difficult to fulfill orders for lumber of a given width.

Sawing by the timber method is carried out as follows: first, a two-edged timber and side boards are cut out of the log. In the future, the resulting beam is cut into boards, and all middle boards are clean-cut of the same width, equal to the thickness of the beam. The subsequent processing of unedged boards is carried out by analogy with boards of the breakup method.

Since the number of edged boards from one log is 65 ... 70% of the volume of all boards, orders for sawn timber of a certain width are easily fulfilled.

The lumber-breaking method allows you to produce products with a high degree completeness (40% of sawn timber - edged) and higher, in comparison with the breaking method, the quality yield of sawn timber.

The segment method consists in the fact that a beam or several boards are cut out of the middle part of the log, and two plates are obtained from the sides, having a segment in cross section. Subsequently, the segments can be sawn in various ways to obtain predominantly radial or tangential lumber.

The segmental method with the production of radial lumber is widely used to obtain resonant lumber with a log diameter of 30 cm.

Segment sawing can be done by both group and individual methods. When sawing each segment separately, a good sawing quality is obtained, since there is a base surface in the form of a plane.

With the sector method, the ridge is cut into four or more parts, each of which has the shape of a sector in cross section. With the group method, four sectors are cut out, with the individual method, more.

Sector and segment methods are very time consuming, characterized by a large amount of wood waste, so mixed methods of cutting are used.

The circular cutting method is characterized by the rotation of the log around its longitudinal axis, which can be carried out after each cut of the next board. Each subsequent cut can be directed either parallel, or perpendicular, or at an angle, most often perpendicular. Obviously, the circular method is only possible with an individual sawing method.

All methods have fundamental differences. Each method determines the appropriate technology and equipment and is intended to produce sawn timber of a certain type, size, and purpose.

The choice of the correct, most expedient, technically and economically justified sawing method is an important task in the technology of mechanical wood processing.

The criterion for the efficiency of cutting logs for sawn timber is the volumetric yield.

Volumetric yield (O, %) - the degree of use of wood without taking into account the size and quality of sawn products:

where - the volume of processed lumber, m 3;

The volume of raw materials used, m 3.

All photos from the article

Sawn logs are boards,. The task of competent and efficient sawing of trunks is extremely relevant for independent or industrial logging, in addition, knowing the basics will help you choose the right lumber.

We will look at the main points regarding this topic and tell you how to properly cut a log on a band sawmill.

sawing logs

The main task

Important! The sawing scheme is selected in accordance with the quality of raw materials, the purpose of the board and the capabilities of the equipment.

Sawing tool

Logging is done with a special tool. For normal work by today's standards, you need a special machine for cutting logs with your own hands, which is called a sawmill.

There are two types of sawmills: disc and band sawmills. Circular saws use circular saws and are considered less efficient, as they have a large cut thickness (from 6 to 9 mm), less accuracy and depth.

The band sawmill is equipped with a different system: the saw is a band worn on rotating rollers. The cut thickness is approximately 1.5 - 3 mm, which is quite economical in terms of chip removal.

Modern models are distinguished by high accuracy and productivity, they are automated and have a tilting mechanism for lifting and turning logs in case of circular sawing or sawing timber.

Using a chainsaw, you can only cut a log in half, but if you use a special frame, you can dissolve the log into boards right in the forest.

Important! Band sawmill is considered the most efficient and cost-effective.

Output

Sawing a log is considered one of the most complex and important tasks in logging and lumber production. The quality of products and the income of the enterprise depend on the chosen scheme, well-designed work procedure and tool preparation.

The video in this article will tell you about the types of sawmills and how to cut wood.

The chainsaw is intended for carrying out various works with wood. With its help, you can fell trees of various diameters and cut them into boards or bars. In addition, this tool is used for figured wood carving - carving. In order to properly use a chainsaw, you need to familiarize yourself with the technology of various works and safety rules, the neglect of which leads to very disastrous consequences.

Felling trees is enough traumatic process, because at the slightest mistake, the trunk of a sawn tree, which has a huge mass, can fall on a person working with a chainsaw. Therefore, it is not enough just to have this unit and the desire to cut down a tree. Before you start working with a chainsaw, you should know the basic rules for working with this tool. So, the safety precautions for felling the forest contain the following points, which must not be ignored.

How to cut down a tree with a chainsaw

When felling trees with a chainsaw, it is necessary to choose the right blade: it must match the thickness and type of wood. For example, if you need to fell thin trees, then it makes no sense to use heavy and powerful units. After all, they have a large consumption of the fuel mixture and lubricant, and it is much harder to work with them. It is recommended to adhere to the following rules:

  • for trunks with a diameter of 600 mm or more, a heavy canvas (650 mm) should be used;
  • for trunks with an average diameter of 300-600 mm - a medium-sized canvas 350-650 mm;
  • felling of thin trunks (up to 300 mm) can be carried out with a blade up to 350 mm.

If you have work to do with hardwood(oak, beech, cherry, apple, pear, etc.), it is better to use medium blades for thin trunks, and heavy blades for trunks with a diameter of 300-600 mm or more.

Preparation stage

Felling trees with a chainsaw will be difficult and sometimes dangerous without a preparation step.

  1. Make sure that there are no people, animals, buildings or other trees in the area where the tree is expected to fall.
  2. Requires very careful preparation for felling trees near water bodies. If the sawn object falls into the water, then it will take a lot of effort, including the use of technology, to get it and cut it.
  3. If you want to lay the cut tree in a certain place, then you can tie a cable to the top of the trunk or to its middle, and use a winch or other mechanism to force it to tilt in the right direction.
  4. Before cutting down a tree, take care of escape routes, if an unforeseen situation arises (if possible, remove all obstacles that may prevent you from leaving the danger zone).
  5. Provide the possibility of access to the sawn and chopped tree for transport for loading and removal.
  6. If to be roll big tree , then at first it is necessary to exclude the possibility of large branches falling in the process of work. It is recommended to rent a lift or use the services of industrial climbers to cut problematic branches.

In amateur practice, it is allowed to fell trees using a single-pass cut, only when low plants with a trunk diameter of no more than 150 mm are to be felled. But sawing thick trees is required, observing standard technology.

  1. The very first, upper cut should be done from the side of the plant into which it should fall in the end. It is done at an angle of 45 °, with a recess of ¼ of the diameter of the trunk. Second, bottom notch is carried out horizontally, until the joining of the undercuts.
  2. The third notch is called felling and is the most responsible. It is performed on the opposite side of the previously made wedge-shaped cut, parallel to the second file (see the figure below), but 5 cm higher than it. Also, according to the technology, the felling file should not be finished to the end, that is, to the wedge-shaped cut. It is necessary to stop without finishing about 1/10 of the thickness of the trunk, so that the remaining whole part acts as a kind of hinge.
  3. To prevent the saw from jamming in the cut, it is necessary to use wooden wedges. Metal wedges should not be used as the chain could be damaged if the saw kicks back.
  4. When making a felling cut, carefully monitor the vertical of the trunk. A sudden gust of wind can make its own adjustments, and it will not work to cut down the tree as you planned.
  5. After the felling cut, even before the plant begins to fall, it follows quickly, without fuss, remove chainsaw bar and move to a safe distance. It is extremely unsafe to be near a tree at this moment, since the lower part of the trunk, when falling, can jump to a height of about 1.5 meters.

If the rule of underdrinking is ignored, as well as the guide and felling cuts are incorrectly positioned, then it will be impossible to predict the direction of the tree's fall.

After the plant turned out to be dumped in the right direction, it should cut all branches on his trunk. For convenience, a flat piece of wood 100-150 mm high should be placed under the barrel. If this is not done, then there is a high probability that you will hook the ground with the saw. When the equipment hits the ground, where there is always sand, the latter falls on the tire, namely in the groove along which the chain slides. As a result of exposure to abrasive particles, not only the chain shanks, but the entire tire begin to wear out quickly. Therefore, the question that builders often ask - is it possible to cut foam blocks with a chainsaw - is inappropriate.

How to cut a log correctly

The next step after felling a tree is sawing it. It is required to conduct it, following certain rules and according to the scheme.

Longitudinal sawing on boards

As you might guess, the boards are obtained by longitudinal dissolution of the log. Since ripping is required, the saw chain must also be of the correct type. To ensure that the cutting of the trunk into boards is accurate, a special Big Mill log sawing device is used, shown in the following figure.

Can be used to cut logs diameter up to 500 mm. The thickness of the resulting board is set according to a special ruler applied on the racks of the device. You can buy it ready-made or do it yourself by watching this video.

To dissolve the log into boards of equal thickness, do the following.


To cut logs across the grain, a crosscut saw chain must be fitted to the machine. Basically, a cross cut is used for sawing firewood. Small cylinders are obtained, which are further split into firewood. To make it convenient to cut firewood, the log is laid on goats with a height of 600-800 mm.

In the same way, it is carried out beam trimming.

Log sawing scheme

Below is a diagram that shows how the logs are properly cut into boards and beams.

This operation can be performed in several ways.

  1. Sawing a square beam occurs from the sound part of the log.
  2. To get 2 rectangular beams, a square beam is sawn into 2 parts.
  3. Sawing a log crosswise, you can get 4 beams.
  4. This type of sawing is called "tossed" and is used on sawmill frames. All boards are unedged.
  5. With this type of log sawing, you can get a two-edged beam, as well as several unedged boards and a pair of slabs.
  6. Difficult in its execution radial sawing. A characteristic feature of boards with such sawing is vertical growth rings.
  7. The double-edged timber is disbanded into edged boards and 2 wane.
  8. For boards with a horizontal arrangement of annual rings, the front side is called the one that is turned to the center of the log (core), and the back side is turned to the sapwood (the so-called periphery of the trunk).

What is carving

The word “carving” came into our language from English and means “cutting”. This is the name of figured woodcarving with a chainsaw. This art of skillful use of the instrument is beginning to gain popularity in our country. For carving, ordinary light chainsaws, for example, such as Husqvarna 135.

Chainsaw Husqvarna 135

The chainsaw has small dimensions, develops the necessary power, has a weight of 4.4 kg and is easy to start the engine. The tire needs to be installed in a medium size, about 14 inches. The chain is selected in 3/8 inch increments. It is recommended to immediately purchase special chains. For example, the STIHL Carving Rapid Micro Spezial (RMS) chain has a ¼ inch pitch, shortened teeth, and is specifically designed for shaping wood. The Husqvarna 135 saw is well suited for beginner carvers.

Chainsaw Husqvarna 450e II

As you gain experience, you can use more powerful units.

Sculptures created from wood using a chainsaw are very widely used in amusement parks, on city streets, near cafes, restaurants and other public places, and always attract the genuine attention of passers-by.

For example, having seen such a product in the park, few people walk past it indifferently.

The fantasy and skill of professional carving artists sometimes cause surprise and admiration.

To achieve such results, you need to make great efforts, it will take years of practice to hone your skills. After all, even if you try to make some simple product with your own hands, you will immediately understand that wood carving with a chainsaw is not an easy process. But if you are overwhelmed with the desire to learn this art, then, undoubtedly, you will be able to realize all your plans and decorate your site with unparalleled products.

What can beginner carving masters do

If you want to try your hand at wood carving with a chainsaw, then first you should choose some simple shape, for example, you can cut outmushroom or cube

Take your choice of wood seriously. If it is wet, then the finished product will crack after drying, and the result of your work will be spoiled.

So, at the beginning it is necessary to make a blank from a wood chainsaw, that is, to give the product a general outline. At this stage, special accuracy is not needed. It is only important not to remove too much. Hold a drawing of the object or a reference in front of you to more accurately represent the proportions of the finished sculpture.

Finished wooden sculptures are polished with sandpaper and covered with a protective layer, paint or varnish. As you acquire skills, you can already take on the manufacture of more complex figures. Log crafts, namely poles depicting people or animals, are very popular among chainsaw carvers. They are installed vertically (buried in the ground). The photo below shows the manufacturing process of a simple log bear figures which is suitable for beginner carvers.

To create birds more experience and skill are required, since very small details of the sculpture (head, feathers, etc.) will be processed.

Choose the right cooling solution
Numerous experiments conducted by American researchers led them to the conclusion that it is wrong to use water as a lubricant when operating band saws. There is no need to use lubricant at all until the sawdust begins to “roll” on the saw. In the event that this happens, optimal lubrication should be used: a mixture of 50% diesel fuel and 50% oil for lubricating chainsaw tires.
This mixture should be evenly sprayed on both sides of the bandsaw blade. And in this case Ordinary car glass cleaners work great. There should not be a lot of cooling solution, the operator will easily notice by the characteristic sound when it is time to “cool down”.
Using this lubricant instead of water will also reduce the amount of blooming boards, and extend the life of the belts on the sawmill drive pulleys, since they will no longer “limp” from sawdust and water falling on them.
Relieve tension from the band saw as soon as you stop sawing
In the process of sawing wood, the canvas heats up, and therefore, stretches, increases in length. As the blades cool, they tend to shrink back to their original size. This is where overloads appear, in other words, excess voltage. The canvas also “records in memory” the shape of both sawmill pulleys, which also does not make its life carelessly long. Add to this the inevitable deformation of the belts on the pulleys, which leads to additional vibration of the blade, as well as the "hump" on the belt that buckles over time, which ensures the saw is self-centering on the pulleys.
Band saws - correct wiring
The layout can be considered optimal when a mixture of 65-70% sawdust and 30-35% air is present between the cutting blade and the treated wood. Ejection of 80-85% of sawdust from the cut indicates that your saw is set correctly.
If the saw set is too large, the cut will remain a large number of loose sawdust, and, most likely, characteristic scuffs and scratches will remain on the surface of the board.
With a small divorce of the saw, tightly pressed, hot sawdust remains on the surface of the board. You can't imagine anything worse for a saw. The sawdust should feel warm to the touch, not hot or cold.
A saw that is set too far is likely to run in jerks, and a saw that is not set too far will leave “waves” on the board.
Example. When sawing a log with a diameter of 30 cm at a good feed, everything goes like clockwork. Do not think that everything will be fine with a log with a diameter of 60 cm, because now you need to remove twice as much sawdust from the cut. Right! Divorce should be increased (approximately 20%). Therefore, among other recommendations, we allow ourselves the following: before sawing, logs should be sorted by diameter.
Remember that only the upper third of the tooth should be bred, in no case under the “root”. After all, only a sharp corner at the very top of the tooth should participate in the sawing process. Do not forget also that the softer the tree you are sawing, the larger the divorce should be.
And, of course, the sequence of operations is extremely important: the blade is sharpened after wiring, and not vice versa. Sharpening will remove 0.002-0.003 inches, so this should be taken into account when setting.
And finally, never turn off your intuition, formulas will not help here.
The Importance of Checking the Adjustable Device Indicator Regularly
Do not forget about such a device on your adjustable device as an indicator. It doesn't cost anything to reset it. It works in an extremely intense mode, judge for yourself: your saw has approximately 220 teeth, you sharpen the saw 15 times, it turns out that the indicator works 3.5 thousand times during the life of the saw. The indicator wears out over time, so check its installation more often.
Band saws - tooth shape
If the idea crosses your mind that a saw will work great no matter what shape the tooth has, chase that thought away. The shape of the tooth has been developed and verified over the years. Why are you trying to reinvent the wheel?
Practical advice: when you go to buy canvases again, ask for a piece of canvas of about 30 centimeters, make a hole in it and chain it to a grinding machine. Here is the standard by which you can copy the shape of the tooth!
Some problems during work band saws oram and ways to solve them
At the entrance to the wood, the saw “jumped up”, and then it works smoothly, until the end of the log, after which it falls down. This is the so-called "squeezing" or "squeezing", that is, when the saw is squeezed out. Most likely, the reason is that the angle of sharpening the tooth is too large. Try decreasing the angle by 2 degrees.
At the entrance to the wood, the saw went up. The result is a curved board like a saber. The reason is that the sharpening angle of the tooth is too large with insufficient wiring. Try decreasing the angle of the tooth by 2 degrees, and increasing the set by 0.002-0.003 inches per side.
The saw dives and then goes straight. This behavior is due to several reasons, for example, the cutting blade has become dull. However, most likely, the sharpening angle is small, or maybe the sharpener simply did not fill the stone in time. Look at the canvas carefully, if the shape of the tooth seems perfect to you, then you should increase the sharpening angle by 2 degrees.
The saw "dives", and the resulting board is curved, like a saber. The angle of sharpening is small and at the same time the wiring is insufficient. You should increase the sharpening angle by 2 degrees and increase the set by 0.002-0.003 inches per side.
There are too many sawdust loose to the touch on the board. Divorce is too big. If you look closely, you can see characteristic scratches across the board. Divorce should be reduced.
The sawdust on the board is pressed and hot to the touch. Divorce is not enough. Should be increased.
Wavy cut. If the saw is sharp, it is due to too little set, increase the set by 0.006-0.008 inches per side. Remember, working with an unset saw is the most flagrant violation of technology, leading to a blade break!
The fabric is cracking at the trailing edge. This is because the back stops of the idlers are too far from the trailing edge of the blade. This distance should not exceed 0.3 mm.
Sawdust "rolls" on the saw blade. The divorce is small and there is not enough air left in the cut, excessive friction on the sawdust occurs, which leads to heating and “baking” of wood dust onto the metal. Increase the set 0.005" per side.
The sawdust "rolls" on the inner surface of the tooth, but this does not happen on the surface of the saw. Poor quality of sharpening (too much feed or too much metal removal, and, consequently, poor quality surface on the cavity of the tooth), or too large a sharpening angle of the tooth. Or they continued to cut the canvas after it had already become dull.
After regrinding, the blade is covered with cracks in the cavity of the tooth. This is usually associated with a change in the geometry of the tooth. Compare the tooth geometry with the original. And last but not least, a note. Many problems are created by the fact that the sharpening stone is not refueled often and accurately enough.
If you consider the recommendations mentioned above to be irrelevant, you may not adhere to them. Remember, no matter how perfect the machine you purchase, it remains a device for "running" saw blade through the wood. 90% of the result depends on the correct maintenance of the band saw blade and only 10% on the overall setting of the machine!

Myths and reality of band sawing

Part 4.1
Band saw tooth setting
Any timber merchant who is going to buy a sawmill, of course, hopes to make a profit. But you need to remember that for the stable operation of the sawmill, it is necessary to prepare saws with high quality. And you have to do it almost every day. In previous articles, we talked about setting up the process of preparing band saws, about a new method of sharpening saws, and also started talking about one of the most difficult processes in preparing saws for work - the process of setting teeth. In this post, we will talk more about this process.
Work on band saw machines, or, as they are more commonly called, band sawmills, however, like on any other equipment, consists of two main parts - organizational and technical. Many people neglect the first part, thinking in vain that all organizational issues can be solved directly in the process of work. The result of such neglect is barely breathing or closing production. In this article I will try to describe the problems that should be solved before buying equipment.
We are often asked: on the band sawmill of which manufacturer and in what configuration is it best to cut? It seems to many that our rich experience of dealing with hundreds of owners of sawmills and with almost all of their manufacturers, knowing the problems that they face on a daily basis, will help to give an accurate answer to this “simple” question. In fact, on the list of sawing questions, this, although a very important question, should be at the last place. Those who first bought a sawmill and only then thought about how to properly organize work on it usually organized this very work for a very long time, and some could not set up production at all in order to receive 500-1,000, and not 50-100 rubles from sawn cubic meter of sawlog. At the same time, most often they blame all the failures on the fact that they bought the wrong sawmill.
In order to get a good profit when sawing logs with narrow (27-60 mm wide) band saws, several basic issues must first be resolved. Moreover, without solving at least one of the issues listed below, it is better not to undertake such sawing at all, because otherwise you will get a lot of problems and a complete headache.
1. It is necessary to work independently as a machinist and sharpener at an existing sawmill. It is to work for 1-2 weeks, and not to look at work for 1-2 hours. If you do not do this, you will never be able to understand the intricacies of production. And as a result, machinists and sharpeners will give many reasons why they cannot work better, and you will not be able to correctly assess the correctness of their arguments, which means that you are unlikely to get the maximum profit.
2. Will you be able to spend at least 10-12 hours a day in production for at least the first year in order to control and debug the entire work process? Do not think that this can be entrusted to your companion, much less a hired master. Unfortunately, a companion can rarely be trusted, and any hired craftsmen most often deceive entrepreneurs. I know more than one example when hired craftsmen live very well in poorly functioning industries without constant control of the owners.
3. It is necessary to decide how the saw log will be cut:
a) on order, sawing the required dimensions of lumber from the sawlog, that is, it is not optimal, each time losing 10-15% of the possible output volume, saving a little on storage costs;
b) with the optimal cutting of each log, obtaining the maximum yield of sawn timber, but at the same time partially sending finished products to the warehouse, with a delay in the sale of slow-moving sizes, that is, with a slight freezing in time of working capital, although in the end more profit.
4. Will you yourself for the first time cut saw logs with the optimal yield of lumber and train your assistant to work in this way, so that you can replace yourself later, or do you already have an experienced machinist who will immediately work perfectly, and not just “drive cubes”. Almost all machinists are paid for sawn cubic meters of sawlogs, and not for the edged lumber obtained from this sawlog. Therefore, it is more profitable for them to quickly cut out thick boards, timber and take another log. Large slabs and large parts when cutting unedged boards usually go to waste. And that's the lost profit. Depending on how well the production is organized, the percentage of finished product yield can range from 50 to 75%.
5. Decide how the drivers will receive the saws:
a) you will simply issue them as needed, that is, the machinists will not be interested in the long operation of the saw and will be able to calmly tear them one after another, and you will only listen to their claims that the framer does not know how to saw, and the sharpener does not sharpen the saws correctly, and calculate your losses
b) interest everyone in caring for the saw and sawmill.
Here is an example. Payment to workers is calculated as follows: for cutting 1 m³ of sawlogs, the driver receives 76 rubles, two assistants - 62 rubles each. Only 200 rubles. This includes the cost of a band saw at the rate of cutting 40 cubes of sawlogs with one saw. If the saw cuts more before breaking, the earnings are higher, respectively. More than 100 cubes began to be sawn with a saw. The only clarification: sawing is carried out with bimetallic saws. Deducted for a torn saw: from the driver - 450 rubles, from each assistant - 200 rubles. Only 850 rubles. If the saw is torn on a nail, then a new one is issued free of charge. The sharpener receives an average salary (if he serves several sawmills) from all machinists. Thus, they are all interested in keeping the saws running for as long as possible. And now no one needs to follow them.
Drivers closely monitor the work of the sawmill, since even its slight misalignment (beating of the pulleys, walking the saw on the pulleys, changing correct settings guide rollers, uneven supply of coolant, grinding of cleaning scrapers, etc.) lead, in addition to the formation of a wave on the lumber, to an accelerated rupture of the saw, which is very disadvantageous for them. And any malfunction is easiest to eliminate at the beginning - there will be less marriage, and subsequent possible large repair downtimes are practically excluded. In order to avoid large waste, you can use various systems fines. As practice shows, once or twice fined machinists cut much more competently. But all this works only when there are several crews and, in extreme cases, the driver can be replaced by his assistant. When the driver works alone, it is very difficult to cope with him.
6. Find a good mechanic in advance, that is, a person who will debug the work of the sawmill and will constantly monitor it, keeping it in good condition.
7. Solve the problem of the band saw preparation site, taking into account that any sawmill is only a saw pulling device with a set of service functions. The quality of the lumber obtained during sawing (dimensional accuracy, straightness (without wave) of the surface), and the productivity of the sawmill (the amount of lumber sawn per unit of time, that is, the actual profit) almost completely depend (with an adjusted sawmill) on the correct daily preparation of saws . There are two options:
a) find a highly qualified sharpener in advance who will be able to try (most often unsuccessfully) to prepare saws daily on inexpensive, low-quality and obsolete grinding and adjustable machines. The result of such preparation is quickly torn saws, low-quality lumber (wave on the surface), low productivity;
b) you can buy right away, paying a little more, good sharpening and adjustable machines, on which almost any person can prepare saws with high quality every day and saw them with maximum profit for themselves. How to choose the right sharpening and adjustable machines was described in previous issues of the magazine.
8. Decide how the sawing process will be organized:
a) at minimal cost, but also with minimal profit: sawing is carried out by one driver and one assistant, the saw unit works only 20-25% of the working time, the rest of the time is spent on feeding the log, preparing it for sawing (leveling, tilting, etc.). ) and removal of the resulting finished lumber;
b) with slightly higher costs, but in the end (due to increased productivity) an increase in real profit - the most common option. Sawing is carried out by one machinist and two assistants, the saw unit has been working for 25-35% of the working time;
c) with the highest possible performance at the lowest initial cost. Sawing is carried out by one driver with two assistants, but at the same time an additional 6-meter section is attached to the main rail track. Two logs are stacked in series. Now, when one log is being cut, the assistants perform the necessary operations with another. The saw unit works 35-50% of the working time.
9. Decide which market you want to work in:
a) internal;
b) external.
When working for the domestic market, the productivity of the sawmill due to a possible increase in the feed of the saw unit can be 10-15% higher. The small deviations of the nominal dimensions obtained in this case or a small wave on the surface are of no fundamental importance.
10. Decide what you want to saw at the sawmill:
a) sawing is not very fast, but very high quality (furniture panels, valuable wood species, etc.), sawlogs are mostly large (more than 40 cm) in diameter;
b) sawing into edged lumber, mainly sawlogs with a diameter of up to 40 cm.
When working according to option a), you will need additional hydraulic or electromechanical devices, an electronic ruler, automatic reverse return of the saw unit.
When working on option b), it is worth seriously considering how necessary these systems are. With all due respect to such systems, they improve working conditions at the sawmill, reducing its real productivity by 10-20%, and besides, they constantly break down.
An experienced driver will tune in to electronics much faster right size(the up and down movement of the saw unit must be electromechanical) and will return the saw unit after cutting back. I know many who started working with these electronic components, but then they were simply turned off so as not to interfere. Two assistants perform all operations with a log much faster than hydraulics or electromechanics, and even during real work with logs with a diameter of 25-35 cm they practically do not get tired. It is only necessary that the stops are not screw, but eccentric. Do you agree to such losses in productivity, especially since the installation of these systems, as a rule, doubles the cost of a sawmill?
11. Decide what real sawlog diameters you will be sawing:
a) mostly diameters greater than 40 cm - when sawing such a sawlog, you need a sawmill with pulleys of at least 600 mm, which allows you to work with a band saw up to 60 mm wide and a saw length of more than 6 m;
b) more than 90% will be diameters less than 40 cm - it is worth considering whether it is necessary to overpay a lot for the opportunity to cut three to five large logs per month. They can be cut in extreme cases in a circle. With pulley diameters of 520-560 mm, the cost of a sawmill is usually up to 30% less. When cutting with a saw with a width of 32-40 mm and a length of 4-4.5 m, while obtaining the same quality of lumber and the productivity of the sawmill, you will not constantly overpay almost one and a half times for the width and length of the band saw with almost the same cut to break each cubic meter of sawlogs.
12. Decide if you need a debarker. In my opinion, it's really not the most expensive, but very useful device, as it allows the band saw to work until it becomes dull for much longer, especially if a dirty log is being cut.
13. Decide if you need a laser pointer. Also very convenient fixture, as it allows assistants to set the log faster and more accurately, thereby increasing the productivity of the sawmill and reducing waste, which often increases with suboptimal cuts.
Only when you solve all the questions listed above, you can start choosing a specific sawmill with the necessary equipment. Let's go back to the original question. So all the same, which band sawmill is better than others: it breaks less, cuts with high quality and is not very expensive? The paradox is that I cannot answer this question. Almost all manufacturers that exist today have been producing sawmills for 10-15 years or more. Rich experience allowed the designers of these industries to develop and manufacture very good new modifications to sawmills, which are practically not inferior to foreign analogues in terms of parameters, and at a price much lower. Real profit can be made much faster by building your production on the basis of Russian sawmills. But the problem of all our productions is that our manufacturers could always develop and produce a prototype and show a polished model at exhibitions, and receive diplomas for these design works. But, unfortunately, almost no one can constantly produce high-quality products. Making a high-quality weld, manufacturing components for exact observance of all necessary parallelism and perpendicularity only in special conductors, the concept of tolerances when connecting components of 0.01 mm or 0.1 °, high-quality electrical wiring connection and much more, that is, everything that can be called one capacious expression - the culture of production is still a practically impossible requirement for many of our manufacturers. Therefore, when purchasing a sawmill from a Russian, Belarusian, Ukrainian manufacturer, you should always remember that you are buying a constructor that you will assemble and bring to a greater or lesser extent to a normal state for the first 1-3 months. There is nothing terrible here. Just at the initial stage, either a good own experience, or the presence of a competent mechanic. But then these sawmills will work no worse than imported ones, and the money saved can be used in the form of working capital or spent on the purchase of additional equipment.
Much is said and written about the low productivity of sawing sawlogs by band sawmills operating with narrow saws 27-60 mm wide.
For reference, I will give the following figures: with a well-functioning sawmill, high-quality preparation of the saw and organization of the sawing process according to option 8b, the average yield of edged lumber should be 1 m³ per hour with a real exit from the log of 70-75% of the finished product. With the correct organization of production, working in several shifts, it is realistic to receive 400-600 m³ of finished edged lumber per month from only one sawmill.
Now, if you independently calculate all the initial costs, productivity, the actual yield of finished products from one log, you can be sure that sawing up to 3 thousand m³ of sawlogs per month by band sawmills operating with narrow saws 27-60 mm wide will be the most economically feasible. compared to all other sawing methods.
I'm sure all the talk about the inability to work productively and get lumber good quality sawmills of this type are run by those who simply did not manage to properly organize the work of their production.

How to work on a band sawmill

Pro Tips
1. GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT THE MACHINE
The horizontal band saw machine is used for sawing wood of any hardness into boards, beams, rails. Sawing occurs by moving the saw frame with a cutting tool (band saw) along the fixed rail guides of the band sawmill.
The use of a band sawmill allows you to:
to produce boards with high surface quality from the material
receive a BOARD with an accuracy of 2 mm. with a length of 6 m;
band sawmill allows you to reduce waste by 2-3 times,
reduce energy costs;
quickly adjust the sawing size,
The band sawmill is capable of sawing short workpieces (from 1.0 meters) and producing products up to 2 millimeters thick.
the band sawmill works in the conditions of UHL 4 (GOST 15150-69). The band sawmill is equipped with an electromechanical type saw unit lift.
2. "Band sawmills" - work and device:
2.1 The main components and parts of the band sawmill:
A bed that moves along rail guides in a horizontal direction;
saw frame;
Raising the saw frame mechanism;
Electric cabinet;
log clamp;
Movable slider of the driven pulley;
Leading pulley;
Driven pulley;
V-belt transmission;
Rail guides of a band sawmill;
Tensioning band saw mechanism;
Band saw mounting socket;
Band saw sheave cover
coolant tank
Saw guide fixed
Saw guide movable
The bed of the band sawmill has a U-shape and soles with rollers for moving the saw frame along the rails and felt brushes that clean the guide from sawdust. The lifting of the saw frame is carried out by two sliders located on the racks of the bed. The movement is carried out by a two-way, synchronously connected chain transmission, driven by an electric motor, through a gearbox.
The frame is made of two channels, which are parallel and interconnected. On one end of the frame, the leading saw pulley is fixedly fixed, on the other end, the driven one, which has the possibility of longitudinal movement. The band saw blade is tensioned by a spring-screw mechanism, the spring dampens the thermal expansion of the saw band. In the manufacture of a band sawmill, the tension for a saw with a width of 35 centimeters is calibrated. The risks of the W tensioner housing and washer are equal to a tension force of 525 kilograms. In the front beam of the band sawmill and on the slider of the driven pulley there are two locks for removing and installing the saw band. On the brackets located in the middle of the frame, two band saw guides (movable and fixed) are installed, which are equipped with support rollers and an adjustment system and a bar. Torque is transmitted from the sawmill engine to the drive pulley - V-belt transmission. The coolant reservoir is fixed on top of the saw-bevel guard. The supply of liquid is regulated by taps located on the tank. The band sawmill control panel is located on the top jumper of the machine.
Guides collapsible from 3 sections, which is convenient for transportation. Below are the base plates into which are screwed anchor bolts. On top of the guides of the band sawmill supports the logs. The log on rail guides is fixed with four screw clamps and a stop that provides 90 degrees.
3. ADJUSTING THE SAW PULLEYS
3.1. The machine provides for adjusting the position of both pulleys relative to each other in the horizontal and vertical planes. It is necessary to ensure that the band saw with a tension of 6-8 kg / mm sq. in cross section by one branch did not leave the rims of the saw pulleys.
3.2. First of all, the pulleys are adjusted in a vertical plane, exposing them at a right angle with respect to the saw frame. To do this, on the slider of the driven pulley, the Ml0 bolt is screwed in from below to its axis, and on the driving pulley, adjustment is carried out by installing spacer washers or plates. This operation is performed by the manufacturer.
3.3 To adjust the position of the saw pulleys of the horizontal plane, two bolts Ml2 are screwed into the ends of the frame from the side of the driving pulley, and one bolt is screwed to the axis of the driven pulley.
It is necessary to adjust the pulleys of the band sawmill in the following sequence:
3.3.1 Turn off the automatic power supply on the control panel.
3.3.2 Open protective covers saw pulleys.
3.3.3 Install the band saw on the pulleys in such a way that it protrudes beyond the edges of the pulleys by the value of the tooth height plus 2-5 mm.
3.3.4 Close the movable connectors (locks).
3.3.5 Tension the band saw by turning the nut of the tension mechanism to the optimum value for this type of band saw (based on 6-8 kg/mm2).
3.3.6. Turning the hand for the driven pulley in the direction of sawing (counterclockwise), you need to look at what position the band saw will take on the pulleys. If the tape runs outward by an equal amount from both pulleys, then without loosening the tension of the saw, release the lock nut Ml6, which secures the axis of the driven pulley to the saw frame (saw frame slider).
3.3.7 Then loosen the M12 lock nut and screw in the Ml2 bolt a small amount, then tighten the M12 lock nut and the M16 lock nut.
3.3.8 Repeat point 3.3.6 and if the tape runs off, repeat the adjustment until the correct result is obtained.
3.3.9 If the band runs inward by an even amount, then it is necessary to loosen the tension of the band saw.
3.3.10. Loosen the Ml6 lock nut, M12 lock nut and unscrew the M12 bolt a small amount, then tighten the M12 and M16 nuts.
3.3.11 If the tape has taken the position according to the instructions, then the adjustment is correct.
3.3.12 If the band saw immediately runs off the drive pulley during rotation, then the adjustment should be started from it.
3.3.13 To do this, depending on the direction from which the belt runs (outward or inward), loosen the left or right lock nuts Ml6 and adjust in the same sequence as on the driven pulley.
3.3.14 After adjustment, tighten all nuts.
3.3.15 Close the doors of the saw pulley covers.
3.3.16 Turn on the e-mail dispenser. energy on the control panel.
3.3.17 Briefly switch on the drive of the saw pulleys and make sure that the saw blade is in the correct position. The machine is ready to work.
4. REQUIREMENTS FOR SAW BANDS
1. During the operation of the band sawmill, in order to increase the service life of the band saw, it is necessary to properly tension it on the pulleys.
1.1 The amount of tension, depending on its width, is determined by the device "Tensometer".
1.2 Attention! The band saw should not be in operation for more than 2 hours. After this time, it must be removed from the machine and hung out in a free state for at least 24 hours to relieve fatigue stresses.
2 Use the correct lubricant for the band saw blade.
As a cutting fluid (coolant), in most cases, just water is enough, or water with the addition of detergent (“Fairy”, etc.). However, at low temperatures it is best to use a mixture of 50%-80% diesel or kerosene and 50%-20% motor oil or chainsaw tire oil. Good results when sawing conifers are also given by the use of turpentine.
In the case of using water as a coolant, it is necessary to wipe the pulleys and the belt with oil at the end of the work.
3. Always loosen the band saw tension.
When you're done, take the tension off the saw. When working, the blades heat up and stretch, and then when cooled, they shrink by tenths of a millimeter during each cooling period. Therefore, the belts left on the pulleys under load overload themselves, and the imprint of the two pulleys is formed on them, which causes cracks in the cavities between the teeth.
4. Use the correct tooth setting.
The setting is correct if you have 65-70% sawdust and 30-35% air in the space between the saw blade and the treated wood. If your tooth setting is too wide for the weight or thickness of the wood, there will be too much air in the cut and not enough sawdust. You will have excessive sawdust losses, and as a result, a large roughness of the processed wood. If the spread is not sufficient, you will not get enough air flow to remove sawdust from the kerf. Hot sawdust is a sign of this. This can cause the most devastating damage to the saw: operating intervals will be short, the saw will fail prematurely. The sawdust should be cold to the touch. And, finally, with insufficient divorce and the wrong sharpening angle, the saw will cut a wave on the board. From our point of view, you cannot work with the same set of teeth with logs of different diameters, timber and cant.
You must sort the timber.
For every 20-25 centimeters increase in size, it is necessary to increase the wiring by about 18%, depending on whether the wood is hard or soft, wet or dry. The only way to achieve the desired layout is to carry out control cuts of a certain log. Increase the set by 5-8 hundredths of a millimeter on each side until tooth marks are visible. This means that you are working with a 50/50 mixture of air and sawdust. After that, reduce the setting of the teeth by 8-10 hundredths on each side, and you will achieve the desired result. Note: You should only breed the top eight, not the middle or bottom. You don't want the gap between the teeth to fill completely when sawing. When you work with soft wood, whether wet or dry, the wood chips increase in volume by 4-7 times compared to their state at the cellular level. Hard woods, wet or dry, increase in volume only 1/2-3 times. This means that if you are sawing 45cm pine logs, you will need to set your teeth 20% more than when sawing 45cm oak logs. Always set teeth before sharpening.
5. Sharpen your saw properly.
There is only one way to sharpen band saws. The stone should travel down the surface of the tooth, around the base of the cavity between the teeth, and up along the back of the tooth in one continuous motion.
You must maintain the profile of the tooth and the interdental cavity.
The space between the teeth (gallet) is not a sawdust bin. The power flow of air, the cooling of steel and the removal of sawdust depend on it.
If you have the correct set of teeth, the air is supplied along the log at the same speed as the saw, as a result, the sawdust is sucked into the gallet. The sawdust cools it considerably as it passes around the inside and outside of the next tooth. It is necessary that the space between the teeth be filled by 40%, which will provide the necessary cooling and increase the time of the saw.
6. Set the correct sharpening angle.
Thanks to the deep gutters, we can use reduced sharpening angles that transfer less heat to the tip of the tooth. The series uses a 10 Degree hook angle that is able to penetrate most medium hard to medium soft wood surfaces.
The general rule is this: the harder the wood, the smaller the sharpening angle.
Warning: Do not trust the scales and measuring rulers on your grinder!
The pins and guides on it wear out. In the course of work, the profile of the stone changes.
To control the correct sharpening angles, use a protractor. Attention; we recommend changing saw blades every two hours of continuous operation, while allowing them to rest for at least a day.
During the operation of the machine, it becomes necessary to regulate individual components in order to restore their normal operation.

How to correctly cut a log into boards?

Wood, together with natural stone, is one of the oldest building materials. You can cut a log into boards in various ways: manually, using an electric or gasoline saw, at sawmills. Despite the enormous abundance of various artificially made materials currently present on the construction market, wood species is still in constant demand. Greetings, readers of Andrey Noak's blog. How to cut a log into boards at home with your own hands? - This is a question that torments many people with "golden hands" and interesting ideas!. Tree species - versatile and available material, and not a single construction event can do without its use.

Cutting logs into boards and types of lumber.

The main raw material for the production of lumber (beams of various sections, edged and unedged boards, etc.) is a log - freed from branches and twigs, as well as from the narrower upper part of the tree trunk. Logs can be used as a completely independent building material as poles, piles, masts, etc., but they are almost always subject to sawing to obtain beams and boards. About how to cut a log into boards, beams and the rest of the lumber, and we will go further.

Sawing a log can be carried out by different methods:

  • manually, using a saw tool;
  • at sawmills;
  • on woodworking machines and specialized lines.

The cost of sawn timber largely depends on its thickness and the amount of production waste.

In order to more correctly use the available raw materials and correctly saw the log, the woodworking industry uses special sawing schemes to reduce the percentage of waste and thus reduce the cost of the final product. Therefore, before sawing a log without the help of others, it would be useful to familiarize yourself with similar schemes.

Tools and equipment for sawing logs

Scheme of cutting at the sawmill.

Depending on the total number of logs, their length, thickness and the expected properties of the upcoming lumber, different tools and special equipment are used for sawing. How to saw a log into boards with a chainsaw - a mini sawmill in your home. What you can’t do with a chainsaw - with the help of all kinds of attachments, this tool becomes very. To obtain a small amount of lumber at home, the manual method of processing trunks using chainsaws and ordinary hand saws with teeth for longitudinal sawing is fully applicable.

A sawmill is a fairly common type of sawmill equipment. How to cut a log on sawing a log into boards with a chainsaw. It is a woodworking machine with frame saws, designed for longitudinal sawing of logs to obtain edged boards and timber. On sawmills, logs with a diameter of 15 to 80 cm and a length of up to 7 m can be processed.

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Sawing tree trunks on circular (circular) machines is carried out by means of a circular saw. Such machines can be single-saw (single-disk) and multi-saw (multi-disk). Single-disk circular saws work, as a rule, with small-sized and low-quality starting material. How to cut a log into boards with a chainsaw, we make boards. Multi-disc machines are designed for cutting round timber of large diameter.

Sample layout charts.

The most popular at present are the so-called band sawmills, both vertical and horizontal. As a cutting tool, they use a tape fabric worn on pulleys. Belt machines provide high-quality longitudinal and mixed sawing of logs into boards and beams with a minimum amount of waste.

Lines for sawing wood are used in large enterprises in the production of lumber on an industrial scale. They provide high quality surfaces and the exact geometry of the final product and have the highest productivity.

Sawmill from a chainsaw of two boards and self-tapping screws Homemade Chainsaw Milling

This video is about the simplest sawmill from chainsaws two boards and self-tapping screws. Help channel: donation .

How to cut a log into planks with a chainsaw

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In addition to the above, in the mass production of lumber, other types of highly specialized sawmill equipment are also used: debarking, edge trimming, band-cutting and other machines.

Types and methods of cutting logs

Before sawing a log into boards and beams, it is important to choose the most optimal sawing method, which is determined by the size, geometry and surface quality of the future lumber, the necessary technical requirements, and the type of wood. According to the orientation to the growth rings of the trunk, it is possible to distinguish the types of sawing. This:

  • radial, carried out clearly along the radius of annual rings;
  • tangential, when sawing is done tangentially to annual rings, parallel to one of the radii;
  • parallel-forming, when cutting occurs parallel to the direction of the fibers (thus, the minimum fiber inclination in the lumber is achieved).

Depending on the direction of sawing, there are several ways to saw logs:

  • sawing waddle;
  • sawing with a bar;
  • segment method;
  • sector method;
  • circular cutting.

Scheme of sawing logs on a sawmill frame.

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Sawing at a waddle is carried out using several parallel cuts along the entire plane of the section of the log and gives an unedged board and two slabs at the exit. the video shows how to evenly cut a log of a board with a chainsaw. How to save money. Sawing waddle is the most in a simple way log processing and is used primarily for cutting small-diameter hardwood rounds, since other methods greatly reduce the width of the finished lumber.

Sawing with a bar involves sawing at the initial stage of a two-edged bar and side boards. The task is how to saw a log into boards with a chainsaw, except for cutting logs into firewood. Saw the log into planks before sawing the log into logs with a chainsaw. The beam is subsequently sawn into edged boards of the same width. Up to 60% of all raw materials are cut with a bar. How to cut a log into boards with your own hands. The disadvantage of this method is the need for the simultaneous use of two sawmills.

The above methods of cutting logs are the main ones. Special methods are used much less often: sector and segment. With sector sawing, the log is first divided into several fragments - sectors, from 4 to 8, depending on the diameter of the trunk. Then these sectors are sawn into boards in radial or tangential directions.

With the segment method, a beam is cut from the central part of the log, as a result of which two so-called segments remain on the sides. The resulting segments are then cut into tangential boards.

The circular sawing method is used for individual cutting of logs and allows you to separate healthy wood from the affected one. How to cut a log into boards - the main secrets. In circular sawing, after sawing off the next board or several parallel boards, the trunk rotates around the longitudinal axis by 90 ° each time.

Sawing logs at home

Often there are situations when it is necessary to make a relatively small number of boards or beams for personal needs. In this case, the purchase of sawmills and other equipment is impractical. If you have certain knowledge and skills, it is much more profitable to cut the logs manually, using an electric or gasoline chain saw. This is a rather laborious process, but in some cases it is quite justified.

Most experts agree that the use of a chainsaw is preferable. How to cut a log into boards at home. Such saws, unlike electric ones, have more power and are able to work without interruption for a long time. The task is how to cut a log into boards with a chainsaw, photo - chainsaws for logs,. In addition, when using a chainsaw, no electricity is required, which allows you to work at a distance from power sources (for example, directly on the plots).

When cutting logs into boards using a chainsaw, special devices will be required: a device for fixing the log, a frame attachment for the chainsaw and a guide along which the cut will be made. The attachment frame is attached to the chainsaw bar in such a way that the distance between it and the chain can be adjusted. This will allow you to get boards of various thicknesses. It is better to choose a special chain for longitudinal cutting, which differs in the angle of sharpening the teeth. As a ruler-guide, a metal profile of the required length or a flat hard board is quite suitable.

Work procedure

Before starting sawing, it is necessary to free the prepared logs from the bark and remaining branches and carefully inspect for the presence of all kinds of defects. This will allow you to choose the optimal cutting pattern and thereby reduce the amount of possible waste.

When sawing logs longitudinally, care must be taken to ensure that the resulting boards have the same density over the entire width. How to cut a log into boards. Since the density of the trunk wood on the north side is much greater than on the south side, the cut is made in a plane directed from east to west (or vice versa).

The first operation in the longitudinal sawing of a log with a chainsaw will be the removal of the slab from two opposite sides of the trunk. the video shows how to evenly cut a log of a board with a chainsaw. How. As a result, a two-edged beam is formed, which is then sawn into boards of equal thickness or other lumber, in accordance with the selected sawing pattern. The output is an unedged board, from which the edges are subsequently removed.

If there is a false core or other defects in the log, it can be rotated by 90 ° or 180 °, as with the circular sawing method.

How to Cut a Board with a Circular Saw... The 7 Best Handheld Circular Saws for Home Use Let's try to simplify the task of choosing the right tool. We have to find the optimal combination of power, weight, features and price. It's better to dance...

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