Homemade drilling machine from a drill: description, drawings, video. DIY drilling machine from a rack and a manual electric drill What can be done from an electric drill with your own hands

A home drilling machine (simply a drill) is equipment that anyone who has ever mastered at least something once feels an urgent need for. Craftsmen sometimes make drills with 2-speed gear, part tables with more than 3 degrees of freedom, and even two-coordinate CNC drilling and milling machines, see fig. below. But in this publication we will consider the manufacture of a drilling machine with our own hands - one that simply drills and mills - but accurately, cleanly, and confidently keeps its accuracy for a long time subject to occasional short-term overload: stable processing accuracy is the main requirement for metal cutting equipment. Which in amateur designs is performed, unfortunately, most often only due to a random combination of circumstances.

Metal or wood?

Wooden drilling "machine"-monster

It always seems to beginners that woodworking is easy and simple. A damaged workpiece will fit into small crafts or fuel. Perhaps that is why in recent times there is a real craze: home-made machines with responsible wooden parts. As a result, monsters sometimes appear in the world, which, probably, would have surprised Archimedes, see fig. on right. However, remember: the best achievable accuracy on wood is +/- 0.5 mm. In metal cutting, the largest allowable error is 0.375 mm by default (in England and USA 0.397 mm = 1/64 inch). At this point, the question of using wood as the main structural material of the machine is closed without discussion that, they say, wood, moreover, is deformed, worn out and damaged by orders of magnitude lighter than metal. Well, for lovers of deep inner self-satisfaction in products - free will for their money and work.

Drill device

Fantasy is an indispensable condition for any creative success, but in mechanical engineering it is useless without precise calculations and reconciliation with proven solutions. The history of machine tool building goes back thousands of years - bow turning and drilling machines with a foot drive were used already at the end of the Stone Age. On the topic of this article, the tested sample is an industrial design desktop vertical drilling machine. We will refer to it, choosing and deciding how best to make a drilling machine with our own hands: there are single copies of drills in operation, which have exceeded 100, and they still hold accuracy.

The device of a desktop vertical drilling machine is shown in the figure:

Its main modules are a bed, a column, a console and a table for the part. The components of the main nodes are slightly highlighted in color, and their components are brighter in colors. The simplest table (not counting the wooden block) is a vise. The rotary-sliding table allows, in addition to drilling, to perform some milling operations. The frame is usually tightly attached to a workbench or other reliable support.

Screw clamp - fixing the console of the mini-drilling machine

In operation, the console is set in the required position according to the size and configuration of the workpiece using the lifting and turning mechanism of the slider, and fixed. The spindle is fed into the working stroke by a separate feed mechanism. In hobby and industrial home use designs lift-and-turn mechanism this is most often the operator's hand, and the lock is the screw clamp of the slider, see fig. on right; in TB, both are acceptable. But what must certainly be in the design of a drilling machine according to the requirements of the same PB is a fender or just a fender: if you throw the feed handle, the spindle or carriage along with it should automatically bounce up to the stop. In home drills, the fender is most often a spring installed in a suitable place, see below.

Note: industrial production, sale and use at enterprises and in IP workshops of drilling machines without a fender are prohibited by the PTB.

Make or buy?

An electric drill is a ready-made drive, gear, spindle and chuck in a monoblock. Put it on the carriage of the machine - and you can drill. In terms of accuracy, the solution, generally speaking, is not optimal (see below), but in many cases it is acceptable, but it eliminates the need to order expensive turned parts of increased accuracy, see below. In view of what the beds for installing a drill are now sold, perhaps not on the street from trays; prices are affordable. When choosing one to make a drilling machine from a drill, be guided primarily by the mode of operation of the equipment; the price also depends on it:

• Episodic drilling / milling for yourself with the accuracy of what happens - a cast plastic bed or stamped steel. The feed mechanism is lever with a cranked lever (see below). Sliding bearings of the carriage (see below) steel on steel or with nylon liners. Prices are $20-$30.
• Regular drilling for yourself or to order with conventional machine-building precision. Processed materials - up to the hardness and toughness of conventional structural steel. Everything is the same, but plain bearings are steel on steel (worse) or with bronze bushings, and the frame is cast iron or (more expensive) composite is also vibration-absorbing. Prices are $30-$40.
• Regular drilling and milling of any materials that can be tooled with periodic overloads of the tool and / or with increased accuracy - plain bearings only bronze on steel, cast iron bed. The feed mechanism is rack and pinion (see more below); vibration-absorbing console. Prices are $60-$180.

Note: As a rule, a rotary-sliding table for the workpiece is optionally offered with drill stands, which allows for certain types of milling. Price within $20.

Choosing a bed

The frame for the drill (which sellers for some reason stubbornly call racks) must be chosen not by manufacturer (“China” - not “China”); Now the market is full of "German China", not to mention the products of the post-Soviet states. You need to check the design.

Firstly, samples with plastic non-nylon bearing bushings are unequivocally rejected: the runout and drift of the drill by more than 0.5 mm will appear already on the 10th - 20th “hole” and will continue to increase. The second is the backlash of the console. We take it by the far end, shake it up and down and to the sides with the clamp clamped. There should not be a noticeable "talker" (the tactile sense of an untrained person feels a beating of 0.4-0.5 mm).

Next - inspection of the structure, see fig. below. For conventional drilling, the one shown in pos. 1. The ideal option is on pos. 2: drill collet clamp, shifting the column to the side reduces the vibration of the console by an order of magnitude, and turning it sideways by 45 degrees, you can mill by hand with precision “as best you can” the part on a standard non-sliding table, removing a pair of table mounts, because at the same time, its manual displacement relative to the horizontal working axis of the console will be linear.

And here is a sample in pos. 3 do not take in any case. Firstly, the collar of his column is low and its fastening is unreliable. Secondly, the longitudinal grooves under the table facilitate manual milling “how it goes”, but, unlike the diagonal ones, they do not dampen the vibrations of the frame. Moreover, they will concentrate where indicated by the arrows (the tide under the column is made too narrow) and from there they will go straight to the column and table.

What is cheaper?

Let's say the price of the frame you like does not suit you. Or a drill, if it is a "draft", with a percussion mechanism, which was in work on building structures and the beating of the cartridge can be seen by eye. Then, first of all, we find out if the master who owns a lathe of increased accuracy (not coarser than 0.02 mm) is within reach. Which, by the way, is not a fact - a high-precision machine is very expensive and never pays off on a stream of common orders. But, let's say, found. We take the drawing in Fig. on the right, we go to him and ask if he can carve it out of steel no worse than 30HGSA, and how much he will take for work. “This” is the drawings of the table drill spindle. The rest of its details can be machined on a conventional machine, or found in the ruins at the iron market or in your trash. Most likely, it will turn out that buying a bed + table is cheaper, and if you estimate the costs for the rest, then, perhaps, a drill with increased accuracy will be outlined. On sale there are; they can be recognized by the absence of a percussion mechanism and a collar specifically for installation in a bed: a turned steel cuff is put on it.

If you still do

However, there may be cases when a homemade drilling machine will either be cheaper or even for nothing, or the best drill on the frame will not replace it. The fact is that, in addition to bending and vibration loads, torsional loads are also transmitted from the working body (tools - drills, cutters). This is due to the difference in the lever arms from the axis of the column to the closest to it and the far edges of the tool; torsional loads from the cutter, gnawing the material with one edge, are an order of magnitude greater than from the drill. Therefore, it is unrealistic to obtain an accuracy of processing with a drill on a bed over 0.1 mm (why - see below), but let's say, a hole of 2.7 is needed for the M3 thread; under M2.5 - 2.2, and the processing error in this case is unacceptable. In general, it makes sense to make a drill with your own hands, despite the costs, if:

1. You are a radio amateur and work with components with a pin pitch of 2.5 and 1.25 mm (“thousand-legs” with a pitch of 0.625 mm are already mounted only on a plane). Then you need a drilling machine for printed circuit boards with an accuracy of no worse than 0.05 mm;
2. You are engaged in other fine work on wood and metal. For example, it is impossible to make a beautiful elegant box or a reliable hiding place in the house using only manual drilling;
3. You drill / mill from time to time for yourself and the accuracy will suit you which will come out, and there is a lot of junk in the gas holders.

Note: in the latter case, you are lucky, suddenly an old children's bicycle is lying around somewhere. The tubes of its frame are of excellent steel, and the wheel hub is almost a finished spindle; on order, only an adapter with a Morse taper for a tool chuck remains. Working thoughtfully and carefully, an old bicycle can be turned into a drilling machine with an accuracy of approx. 0.1 mm, or actually a free drill stand, see for example. video:

Video: do-it-yourself drill stand

Layout

But, let's say we need higher accuracy, and we need to mill the grooves without losing it. In this case, the layout of the machine is of paramount importance.

The best option is the location of the spindle and the drive on opposite sides of the column, pos. 1 in fig. The heavy motor in this scheme acts as a counterbalance to earthquake-resistant buildings: it reflects vibration and torsional loads from the spindle in antiphase. In the area of ​​the column from partially extinguish each other. The damping is maximum if the center of gravity of the carriage is exactly along the axis of the console, and the higher, the thinner the drill and the less pressure on it. That is, the accuracy of the machine for fine work increases, and at the same time, without loss of accuracy, it can withstand quite significant overloads.

Note 4: it is possible to make a drill for precision work with a direct drive to the spindle and the location of it and the drive on the same side of the carriage if there is a ready-made vibration damping frame, for example. from an old microscope (under 2), etc. optical devices.

In mini machines for printed circuit boards and jewelry work, an unpleasant effect is observed: in order to obtain an accuracy above 0.05 mm, the column has to be made disproportionately thick, pos. 3. This is due to the fact that its ability to absorb vibrations and torsional loads is determined by the cross-sectional area, which falls squarely with a decrease in the size of the part. For boards for components with a lead pitch of 2.5 mm, as well as small metalwork and carpentry work, an accuracy of 0.05 m is sufficient. In this case, the main influence on its deterioration is exerted by loads bending the column. To parry them, it is enough to use a double column of a 10-14 mm bar from ordinary structural steel, pos. 4. If the usual accuracy of 0.375 mm is sufficient, then by doubling the column, a drilling machine for episodic work can even be made from a drill and propylene water pipes, pos. 5. Its resource before loss of accuracy is small, but the material is also cheap and does not require processing to order.

Innings

An important role for the accuracy of drilling is also played by the device of the spindle feed mechanism (carriages in the machine from a drill): jerks and / or uneven feed force at least increase the runout of the drill. When drilling with a thin carbide drill, in this case, its removal, breakage and, as a result, irreparable damage to the labor-intensive workpiece are very likely.

In machines and beds for a drill of increased accuracy, a rack and pinion feed mechanism is used (on the left in the figure), which ensures its complete uniformity and, which is especially important for manual feed, exactly proportional return of the tool stop to the hand. This requires a rack and pinion with a well-defined tooth profile - involute. Otherwise, the feed will go jerky even with absolutely smooth pressure on the handle. It is unrealistic to make a pair of rack and pinion with the same involute teeth “on the knee”; picking up a suitable ready-made pair is unlikely, so rack and pinion feeders in homemade drills are extremely rare.

More often they make a simple single-lever feed mechanism, in the center in the figure, but this is far from optimal. At the beginning and at the end of the stroke, when smooth feed and drilling accuracy are especially important, it transfers the emphasis to the hand insufficiently, and excessively in the middle of the stroke, which increases the likelihood of the tool getting stuck in viscous material. From these shortcomings, the feed mechanism with a cranked breaking lever, on the right, is free; in addition, it additionally dampens console vibrations. The ratio of the shoulders of the knee take approx. 1:1.

Table with serving

Drilling of thin brittle / tough parts is more accurate, and the likelihood of drill drift and breakage is less if the spindle is fixed and the table with the part is fed up to it, therefore, in many drills for fine work the table is supplied with a separate feed mechanism. Due to the inertia of thinking, it is often also made rack and pinion, see for example. Further. But, given that the mass of the table in this case much more than such a part, a lever-feed table turns out to be no worse, but it is completely affordable for home production. Its device is shown in Fig.:

There is only one nuance: so that the clip does not lead during assembly, it is tightly inserted into the through hole of the base and welded from below (from the underside). You need to cook with an OMA-2 electrode or thinner with a direct current of 55-60 A with short diametrically opposite tacks (“pokes”). Dimensions of the table for printed circuit boards and jewelry work 60-150 mm in diameter; thickness 6-12 mm. Table shank diameter 12-20 mm; length by the feed stroke +(20-30) mm. The tube for the shank (wall thickness from 1.5 mm) is desirable to be machined or drilled and reamed so that the shank runs smoothly in it without noticeable play. The short lever arm is made approx. equal to the diameter of the table; long - whatever you want.

Console

Let's look again at Fig. with factory settings. The designs of their half-frame carriage consoles are similar; they are quite rational, but designed for automated and robotic production: precision casting and then finishing in place on a CNC machine and laser measurement.

A diagram of an analogue of a console with an amateur-designed semi-frame is given on the left in the figure:

The first thing that attracts attention is that you need to cut 5 parts from a thick steel sheet, trimmed (processed with an end mill) for evenness and parallelism of the sides. Second, the end sections of the inserts filled with dark gray must also be even, clean, and parallel. Those. and here without milling machine not enough. Finally, outside the production conditions, it is unrealistic to perform a sliding pairing of the slider and the guide carriage (shown by the arrow) with a backlash of less than 0.1 mm. Let's estimate the ratio of the lever arms - the transverse runout of the drill is more than 0.5 mm.

The design of the console of a drilling machine, which is not very technologically advanced in mass production, but adapted for manufacturing by handicraft methods, is shown on the right in Fig. (the feed mechanism and the drive with the bracket are conventionally not shown). Moreover, in it, the beating of the drill on the inhomogeneities of the material causes the carriage on the column and the guide to skew in opposite directions, and the lateral drift of the tool does not exceed the amount of play in the slip liners. Only one detail is cut out of a thick plate - slider 4. Its precise processing is only necessary in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bclamping the column and installing the guide, and 3 bronze bushings-inserts will precisely fit any turner of average qualification in place, if you give him a column and a carriage guide (they can be machined with normal precision).

So that the entire assembly does not lead to welding, you need to cook as before. case: OMA-2 electrode or thinner, direct current up to 60 A. The seams are also welded alternately with tacks: a “poke” on one, the same on the same far one, located symmetrically. Then the tacking of the seam closest to the first, the same on the diametrically opposite one, etc., etc., until all the seams are welded.

Note: the accuracy of the machine with the described console will be higher if it is assembled not by welding, but by screws with gluing with high-strength glue for metal (cold welding). First, everything is assembled without glue, the clips are aligned for parallelism and the fasteners are tightened. Then the screws are turned out one by one, glue is dripped into the nest and tightly wrapped back. A dreary business, but in this way it is realistic to get a home-made drill with a drill runout of less than 0.02 mm. Unless, of course, the spindle and chuck are centered no worse.

Errors in design

All efforts to make a drilling machine with your own hands will go down the drain if fundamental mistakes were made during its design. The most common of them are shown in Fig.:

Typical mistakes in the manufacture of a drilling machine

Pos. 1 is the console or what? This frame will not withstand the standard load from the tool stop for a long time. There is no need to talk about accuracy. Pos. 2, in addition: it is impossible to make the column of the drilling machine tubular. The pipe holds bending loads, but is powerless against torsional loads, and only intensifies vibrations.

Pos. 3 - to make a drill from an old photographic enlarger, the temptation is great, especially since it was made with at least initial, but optical accuracy. But! The magnifier rod holder is not designed to support the tool. As a result, when drilling hardboard, the drill departure at a feed rate of 20 mm reaches 1.5 mm (!). And the bracket is silumin: this material does not absorb vibrations, gets tired quickly, and the bracket breaks in less than 200 holes even when drilling printed circuit boards.

Pos. 4 - doubling the column in the transverse direction does not give anything. The resistance of the machine to loads will be no higher than on a single pin of the same diameter. Pos. 5, in addition: the rebound spring, which is asymmetrical about the axis of the column, does not dampen vibrations and torsional loads, but enhances them. If so, it was necessary to put 2 identical springs on both racks. And it would be better to make a column, as shown here:

Video: do-it-yourself drilling machine from a drill

Pos. 6 - installation of the drive and spindle on one side of the column, and even asymmetrical, does not reduce, but enhances vibrations, because they are transferred to the column in phase, see above. Pos. 7 - where is the fender? Yes, it cannot be here, since the screw feed drive. With a screw, you can accurately set the slider (which is not here at all), which is home machine in general, it is not necessary, but in no case should the carriage be fed! This structure will be thrown a little bit with fragments of drills and chips, and the operator's eyes are in close proximity to the danger zone.

Structural analysis

Samples of successful technical solutions, as well as not so significant design flaws, we will consider the examples of several home-made drilling machines.

For a radio amateur, modeller, craftsman-miniaturist and / or jeweler, a simple mini-drilling machine with direct drive may be of interest (the drawings are given in the figure on the right). The design feature is that the drive motor is rigidly attached to the slider, and the feed is only from below by the table. The massive electric motor itself serves as a vibration damper and torsional load absorber, just like an anti-seismic load on high-rise buildings. Thanks to this, all parts, except for the Morse taper with an adapter to the motor shaft, can be performed with normal accuracy: the drilling accuracy is determined by the beating of the motor shaft + the beating of the cone with the adapter + the beating of the drill itself. A table with a rack and pinion feed mechanism can be easily changed to a lever one. It is better to use a collector DC motor: for asynchronous motors with capacitor start, due to uneven rotating magnetic field and slip of the rotor in it, the rotation of the shaft is less uniform. In addition, the speed of rotation of the collector motor is well regulated even with a simple rheostat, and to adjust the speed of the asynchronous motor, you need to change the frequency of the supply current. The same is for synchronous with a magnetic rotor. The maximum speed of the motor shaft is 800-1500 rpm. Power on the shaft for drilling holes up to 3 mm - 20-30 W; for holes up to 6 mm - 60-80 W.

Note: this machine is not suitable for milling, because motor shaft bearings are not designed for lateral loads and the machine in this mode will quickly lose accuracy.

Here in fig. drawings of a fully functional mini-drilling machine of the same purpose, also with direct drive, are given:

It is equipped with a separate spindle, which allows, firstly, to fill a drill with a maximum diameter of 6 mm into the chuck No. 1a; for 8-10 mm drills, the engine is rather weak. Secondly, to make milling with dental burs. Apparently, the author of the design often uses this particular operation, on the basis of which the motor rotation speed was chosen. Without reducing it, it is necessary to drill on this machine with carbide drills, and to use ordinary drills, supplement the design with a speed controller; in this case, the motor needs at least 60 watts. A conspicuous drawback of this machine - a simple lever feed drive - can be easily eliminated: the feed lever is replaced with a cranked one without modifying the rest of the parts. To improve the accuracy of processing, it is also desirable to put the second rebound spring (pos. 14 in the figure and 9 in the specification; there and still confused) symmetrically to the first, at the other end of the spindle leash. A more serious design flaw is that the rebound springs are not involved in damping vibrations and torsional vibrations. At rotational speeds above 5000 rpm, their influence on accuracy practically does not affect, but already at 1500 rpm, the runout of the drill during the working stroke increases by approx. twice.

Drawings of a drilling mini-machine, conceived as a full-fledged structurally, but with annoying errors, are given in fig; the design of the carriage is similar to the console in the previous. designs.

Thanks to the installation of a strong rebound spring in the right place, it was possible to firmly fix the spindle in the carriage, which at first glance reduced the number of parts that require increased precision. But only when feeding from below by a table, and even then, the fixation of the slider 5 and the carriage 4 with pairs of screws 17 and 16, respectively. unreliable and spoils the column; it would be better to use screw clamps. And when the released carriage is fed by the lever, only its joints prevent the carriage from turning. A play of any of the hinges of the lever of 0.02 mm, taking into account its ratio with the length of the knee shoulders, will give a lateral drift of the drill by 2 mm or more, which can only be parried by hand. In this machine, the console with an additional carriage guide, described above, would be most appropriate; in this case, it would be quite possible to achieve a runout of the tool due to backlashes in the interfaces of the parts of the machine itself no more than 0.02-0.03 mm.

On this fig. - drawings of a bed for a drilling machine from a drill with a semi-frame carriage, "almost like a real one."

Everything is good in it, and something is even better than the "firm": plates 5, which prevent the lateral displacement of the carriage, perfectly "catch" and suppress the vibrations of the instrument in their very bud. There is only one question: how to do all this if a machine park worthy of a small machine-building plant does not doze in the garage (shed), waiting for the master's hand? It is easier to make a drilling machine from a drill as shown in the video:

Video: homemade stand-machine for a drill

Involuntarily, an old Soviet joke comes to mind:

“Dear Comrade Leonid Ilyich honored a certain industrial enterprise with his visit. They are walking through the workshop, suddenly the general secretary stops the retinue with a wave of his hand, one approaches the worker at the machine:

- Comrade turner ...

- Yes, Petrovich, I ...

- Good. Comrade turner Petrovich, tell me frankly - do you drink vodka?

- But how! We use!

- And if a bottle costs 10 rubles, will you still drink?

- I will.

- And 25?

- I will.

- And 50?

- I will.

- And 100?

- I will anyway.

- Petrovich, ... but where can I get so much money for my salary ?!

- Gee ... what does the loot have to do with it ... this little wick (shows) how it cost a half liter, and it will cost.”

Who is happy, who is alas, but those Petrovichs, general secretaries and industrial relations are no more. And it will not be - they turned out to be completely ineffective.

About steering drills

A fairly popular request on this topic is also "drilling machine from the steering rack of a car." It seems to be a ready-made converter of rotational motion into a linear one, and even with a geoid transfer characteristic: in order to “peck” a little with a drill, you do not need to “catch microns” with your hand. You just need to adapt the steering wheel to the rail, make a drill holder (see the figure on the right), and you're done, see video.

Reading 7 min. Published on 24.11.2018

It's no secret that in the workshop of every home craftsman there are tools that could rightfully go to "deserved rest". The hand of the owner does not rise to throw out of his life a tool that, on the one hand, is already outdated, on the other hand, can still solve this or that problem. Or it can serve as the basis for the “homemade” needed by the master.

So an old Soviet-era hand drill can serve as a nozzle for a screwdriver, a key for opening and closing bolts, a device for stripping cables and other devices. You can come up with many different tools, everything is limited only by your imagination.

And what owner would deny himself the pleasure of decorating his house or workshop with a vintage drill?

Key

For the "homemade key" we only need two gears, small and large flat from an old hand drill.

Just be sure to steel, not cast iron.

Additionally, small materials are required, which are in the house of every master.

Of course, it will not do without welding equipment, a grinder, a drill and small tools. The whole technology for making a homemade key consists of the following steps:

1. Dismantling an old hand drill. By knocking out the cotter pins, we will release the small and large flat gears. Only these parts from the drill will be needed in the future.
2. Using a grinding machine, we make a short axis. We press it into a large flat gear.
3. Details are scalded with argon welding. If a conventional electrode is used, then after the welding process it is necessary to clean and plan the seam.
4. Let's prepare two tires for the key - short and long (flat strips of metal). In both tires we drill holes equal in diameter to the axis of the shaft. On both tires, using a machine tool and a hammer, we make an L-shaped double bend at right angles, after slightly softening the metal by welding. On a longer tire - a deeper bend, on a short one - a slight one. This is done so that the short tire goes around the flat gear, and the long one around the small gear.
5. Prepare a metal round timber (shaft) and two half-inch tubes. The round timber should go into the tube and rotate freely in it.
6. We machine one side of the round timber on the machine so that its diameter is equal to the inner diameter of the small gear. We dress the aforementioned gear on the shaft made. With a drilling machine, we make two holes in the shaft and connect the round timber (shaft) and the small gear with a cotter pin.
7. We collect the key in one design. We apply the gears between the two tires so that the bent shorter tire is on the side of the large flat gear. And the long one goes around the small gear. In this case, the short gear is set at an angle of 90 degrees to the axis of the large flat gear.
8. The small and large gears of the drill must be in contact with the gear parts, i.e. to put it simply - to coincide in their course, thus transferring rotation to each other.
9. We make welding, where we connect both ends of the long and short tires with a tube, inside of which there is a shaft with a short gear.
10. It remains to make a handle. To do this, weld the second piece of the tube to the shaft.
11. On the side of the short tire, a shaft with a large flat gear is turned by a grinder in the shape of a square. This is done in order to put on heads.
12. The key with the help of an old drill is completely ready!

The wrench is specially made to unscrew and tighten bolts and nuts in hard-to-reach places. In doing so, we save our time and energy.

Video

Video on how to make a key from an old drill with your own hands:

Nozzle for screwdriver

What else can be done from an old drill with your own hands?

With a little thought, you can make a nozzle for a screwdriver.

Such a simple design nozzle can be created without unnecessary difficulties.

The idea is good because there is no need to spend money on additional details. Everything you need is already in the design of the drill. Only needed lathe, Bulgarian, welding machine and of course - a screwdriver, the nozzle on which we will now make:

1. Remove the two covers from the drill body. We unscrew the stubborn part.
2. We knock out the cotter pin from the small gear and remove it from the shaft on which the drill chuck is mounted.
3. Using a grinding machine, we bore the conical tip of the shaft up to 10 mm.
4. We insert the shaft back into the drill body, put on the gear and cotter pin.
5. On the right side, we cut off the threaded shaft with a grinder.
6. We screw the rubber handle (improved version) into the case on the right.
7. Cut off the threaded part of the large gear shaft.
8. A head must be welded to the shaft of a large gear.
9. Screw the two covers back to the housing and lubricate the gears with a special graphite grease.
10. The nozzle is ready to use!

The "homemade" mechanism allows you to screw in and unscrew bolts and nuts in hard-to-reach places. Increases torque by 6-7 times. Since the nozzle is longer than a simple screwdriver, the tool can be used on the farm, for assembling furniture, for car repairs, if the nut connection cannot be reached in another way.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that this nozzle from a drill maintains a working angle of 90 degrees, and this functional feature is indispensable when working where the space above the nut is limited and you can screw in and unscrew the nut only from the side. The nozzle is simple in execution, does not require additional investments, and will serve for many years.

Video

A detailed video on how to make the nozzle described above from a drill:

Restoration

Can't give up an old but favorite instrument?

Give it a second life and the result will delight every time you pick up a tool.

In order to restore a hand drill, no special skill is needed. It is enough to carefully perform all the stages of work step by step:

1. Unscrew all screw connections of the drill. Remove the handle and both covers. If you have difficulty loosening the screws, use any spray-type rust remover.
2. Pull out all the cotter pins, freeing the gears. Remove the fast and slow rotation shafts.
   We dismantle the stop, spindle, handle, drill chuck. Carefully remove the bearing so that the metal balls contained inside do not crumble.
3. We lay out all the parts and screws on the desktop. With a cloth moistened with a special anti-corrosion compound, we wipe each component of the tool. We remove the old oil from the gear and inside the housing. If necessary, use a metal brush.
4. There comes a time" water procedures"- carefully place all parts of the drill (except for the wooden part of the handle) in a container with a rust neutralizer, such as VSN-1, for example. We leave for a couple of hours.
5. We take out all the parts from the container, and again carefully clean each part from all sides with a brush with plastic bristles from rust residues. Do not forget about the screws, they also should not leave the hands of the "restorer"
6. When you are sure that the rust is over, proceed to remove the remaining paint. To do this, you need a gel to remove paint and varnish coatings. Apply this gel with a brush to all parts where paint residue needs to be removed.
7. Remove paint residue with a metal brush or spatula (in hard-to-reach places).
8. Polish the surface of the covers, body and handle with a drill with a felt nozzle.
9. If necessary, straighten the surface of the covers with a hammer.
10. We are getting ready to paint. Seal the holes from the covers on the case with masking tape, place paper plugs inside the screw holes. Separately hang the body, handle, covers, stop and open each part with an aerosol putty from all sides. Wait for it to dry.
11. Sand every detail with sandpaper and coat again with spray paint. Do this carefully and at a distance so that there are no smudges.
12. Sand the wooden part of the handle and open it with varnish, or you can make a new one on a lathe.
13. Let's start assembling. Lubricate the ball bearing with special graphite grease. We install it. We strengthen the small and large gears on the shafts with the corresponding cotter pins. We install the drill chuck and stop in place.
14. We lubricate all the gears with a special graphite paste and close the case with covers on both sides. Screw in screws.
15. We attach a handle with a wooden part to the body with a screw.
16. Ready! The old tool has changed and pleases its owner!

A hand drill can remain not only a reliable assistant in work home master but also become a source of technical innovation. For creativity is inherent in every craftsman!

The first electric motor was invented in 1834 by the Russian scientist B.S. Jacobi. In the next 30 years, work tools began to appear based on an electric motor. The first drill began to work in 1868 in the office of the American dentist D. Green. Modern look acquired the instrument in 1916, when the mechanics Black and Dekker designed the case in the form of a pistol with a button in place of the trigger.

What is a drill usually used for?

The main purpose of an electric drill is drilling various materials. Calculations of technical indicators in the design of new models are carried out on the basis of this task.

During operation, the electric motor rotates the chuck with the drill clamped in it. The speed of movement is regulated using a special rheostat controlled by a start button. The direction of travel can be changed by switching the reverse lever. The function of changing the direction of rotation will help if the drill is stuck at the exit from the material. In addition, with special nozzles, the drill can be used as a screwdriver - to tighten and unscrew the screws.

The versatility of the tool is provided by its design.

Often drills have two or more speeds. This is achieved with the help of a gearbox connecting the engine to the working shaft. Changing the gear ratio of the gears of the gearbox leads to a change in the speed of rotation and power of the working tool.

Video: drill - inside view

Power tools in this category have, as a rule, two main modes of operation. Regular mode of drilling and drilling with impact. Regular mode is used during locksmith and carpentry work. Impact drilling is designed to make holes in stone walls, concrete and brick.

The percussion mechanism of the drill consists of two coaxially arranged ratchets, which, when interacting, give the working shaft an additional translational motion. In this case, special drills with carbide tips are used at the end of the working part. The impact force of such a mechanism depends on the external pressure on the drill. To drill quickly, a force of 10-15 kg must be applied to the body.

Preparation for work

The readiness of the drill for work is determined by the following conditions:

• the device is connected to a power outlet (for drills powered by an electrical network);
• the battery is charged and installed in the compartment (for battery tools);
• a drill is installed in the chuck.

Attention! To make the hole smooth, the cutting edge of the drill must be sharply sharpened. Take a new drill or sharpen the old one with a whetstone.

To check the power, you can press the start button. If the cartridge rotates quickly, then the motor is fed electricity and the tool is ready to go. If the chuck of a cordless drill spins slowly, the battery is discharged - it needs to be charged.

How to insert a drill correctly?

To correctly insert the drill into the chuck, you need to know the following. The hole intended for clamping the tool has a depth of no more than 2 cm. The deeper the drill is planted, the more reliably it will hold in the chuck. Chuck clamping mechanisms are of two types:

• manual, tightened by hand;
• key, wrapped with a key.

AT last years household models of drills are equipped with a manual (quick-clamping) chuck - it is simpler and faster to operate.

To install the drill in the chuck, follow these steps:

1. Turn the chuck counterclockwise. Sponges should disperse to a distance slightly more than the diameter of the drill.
2. Insert the drill between the jaws until it stops.
3. Gently turn the chuck clockwise, making sure that the drill is clamped evenly on all sides.
4. Tighten the jaws by hand or wrench.

Attention! Before drilling, turn on the drill and look at the drill. A properly installed tool does not hit and looks like a smooth line.

Video: how to insert a drill and secure it

When fixing the drill in the chuck, considerable effort can be applied, especially if the drill has a large diameter. In this case, it should be remembered that then you will have to do the reverse operation in order to remove the drill or replace it with another one. When clamping the drill, look for the “golden mean”: fasten the drill securely, but so that it can be easily removed from the chuck. The required effort is easily determined after a little practice - muscle memory is turned on.

How to remove the drill from the chuck?

Before removing the drill, make sure that the drill is unplugged, avoid accidentally pressing the button to start the cordless tool. Pull out the drill only after the rotation of the chuck has completely stopped.

Attention! Never brake the chuck with your hands, as this may cause injury.

If the drill is equipped with a keyless chuck, the steps to remove the drill are as follows:

1. Remove your finger from the start button.
2. Wait for the complete stop of rotation of the chuck.
3. Take the cartridge by the base with one hand. Turn it counterclockwise with the other hand.
4. When the jaws of the chuck are far enough apart, remove the drill.
5. Carefully place the drill on the table, making sure that it does not roll away.

If the drill is equipped with a keyed chuck, do the following:

1. Turn off the drill, wait for the chuck to stop.
2. Insert the key into the chuck hole.
3. Turn the key counterclockwise until it moves the cartridge.
4. Unscrew the chuck by hand so that the jaws release the drill.
5. Remove the drill from the chuck.
6. Place the key in the hole on the wire so that it is not lost.

Video: how to change the drill

How to use a drill correctly?

A drill is a powerful electric tool that is a source of danger. The basic rules for safe work with a drill are as follows:

• Before starting work, securely secure the workpiece in a vice or clamps. Do not hold the item in your hands.
• Firmly fasten the drill or tooling in the chuck. Tighten the chuck by hand or tighten with a wrench. Be sure to remove the key from the hole in the chuck.
• When working with hard and massive materials, hold the power tool with both hands.
• Do not press hard on the body of the drill so that the drill does not jam. Reduce the pressure at the exit of the drill from the workpiece.
• Use personal protective equipment: goggles, respirator, gloves.
• Switch modes and change the tool only after the chuck has completely stopped.
• Sweep away shavings with a brush only.

How to make a vertical or horizontal hole

To make a vertical or horizontal hole, follow these steps:

1. Mark the location for the hole.
2. Install a drill of the required diameter into the chuck.
3. Bring the tool and set the drill to the mark.
4. Start the engine smoothly and press on the drill body.
5. When the hole is ready, remove the drill without turning off the motor.
6. Release the start button, wait for the cartridge to stop.
7. Place the drill on a flat surface.

Attention! You can not be distracted from work until the hole is completely ready.

How to make a hole perpendicular to the surface or at an angle

If you need to make a hole perpendicular to the surface, you can use a protractor or square. Home craftsmen figured out how to drill a hole at a 90 degree angle to the surface without a goniometer. An old CD is placed on the surface of the workpiece. The drill is aligned so that the visible part of the drill coincides with its reflection in the “mirror” of the disc. In this case, the hole will be made strictly perpendicular to the surface.

When the drill is perpendicular to the surface, the line of the drill coincides with its reflection in the CD

If you want the hole to go at an angle to the surface, you need to fix the workpiece at that angle. The most accurate holes will come out if you use a special stand-clamp for a drill.

Corner stand secures the drill at an angle

How to drill metal

Drilling metal surfaces has its own characteristics. First of all, you need to choose a drill designed for these purposes. A wood or stone drill is not suitable for metal, stainless steel or cast iron. These drills differ not only in the grade of steel, but also in the angle of sharpening of the cutting edge.

When working, there is no need to rotate the drill at high speed, the drill will slide over the surface without catching the material. The optimal speed when drilling metal is low, when you can see with the naked eye how thin chips are formed. The pressure on the drill can be significant, but within reasonable limits, so that the drill does not break. When drilling steel and cast iron, it is recommended to lubricate the drill with machine oil for cooling.

In order for the drill to catch on hard material, it is recommended to make a recess at the drilling point with a bench punch. The drill will not lead to the side.

How to drill concrete

When drilling concrete, stone or brick, a lot of dust is released, small fragments can fly out from under the drill. Respiratory protection and eye protection must be used.

Advice. You can reduce the amount of dust by moistening the workpiece or the drilling site with water.

If you need to drill concrete, then the best option would be to use drills equipped with a victorious solder at the end. These drills do the job best and can be sharpened periodically as needed.

The impact mode is incorporated into the design of the drill for drilling stone objects. You need to use the impact mode carefully. If a tile is being drilled, it is not worth turning it on, as the impact will inevitably lead to cracking of the ceramics. The same can be said about a hollow brick - it is dense, but fragile.

Attention! When drilling stone and concrete, the drill gets very hot. Wait until the tool has cooled down before changing the tool to avoid burns.

How to drill wood

Wood is a soft and easy-to-drill material that can be perfectly processed and polished. When drilling wooden products it is recommended to use special drills for wood.

It is best to start work with markings, marking the place for the hole with a pencil. Next, resting the end of the drill at the intended point, turn on the maximum rotational speed and smoothly immerse the drill into the wood. If the hole is deep, from time to time you need to pull the rotating drill to the surface so that it can free itself from the chips.

Often in modern life you may be faced with the need to make a hole in the plastic. Basically, plastic is drilled in the same way as wood, as it is a soft material. Some synthetic materials (for example, ebonite, textolite, caprolon) have high hardness. For processing such plastics, it is better to use drills designed for metal.

How to make a groove in a wooden board

If you need to make a groove in a wooden board, this can be done with an electric drill.

The groove in the board is made with an electric drill

To make a groove, you need to do the following steps:

1. Take a drill for wood, the diameter of which corresponds to the width of the future groove.
2. Mark holes along the groove so that their centers are at a distance of half the diameter of the drill.
3. Drill all holes to a depth of 2-3 mm - so the drill will not lead away.
4. Drill all holes to the end.
5. With a file, remove the jumpers (if any) and smooth out the bumps.

Brick is a rather soft material, so it can be drilled with a conventional electric drill with an impact function.

A simple drill can drill a brick

Drilling a brick wall is performed as follows:

1. Mark the location of the future hole with a pencil or marker.
2. Put a core or an old drill on the mark.
3. Apply 2–3 blows with a hammer so that a recess remains on the brick - then the drill will not lead away.
4. Install a drill in the drill, turn on the impact mode.
5. Drill a hole by gently pressing the tool.

Note. If the finished hole is to be larger than 10 mm, it is recommended to first drill the hole with a smaller diameter drill bit - 6-8 mm, and then ream to the required diameter.

Video: drilling a brick wall

The main malfunctions of the drill and how to fix them

No matter how perfect the technique, sooner or later, there comes a moment when the technological resource is exhausted, and one or another part needs to be replaced.

The electric drill is no exception. Here is a list of possible, most common problems:

1. Motor failure (power supply is good, but the motor does not rotate).
2. Wear or burning of carbon brushes (during operation of the device, the brushes spark strongly).
3. Failure of the engine support bearings (a hum of the motor is heard, but there is no rotation, or the cartridge rotates intermittently, with a rattle).

In addition, the reasons for the unstable operation of the electric drill may be related to the integrity of the power cord or the start button being stuck. Such problems are solved by replacing the cable and preventive cleaning of the button from debris and dust.

To repair a drill at home, you will need many special tools, including electrical measuring ones. If they are not, it is cheaper to give the drill for repair to a service center. Replacing carbon brushes is quite within the power of a home master. In all new models of drills, the designers have provided for quick access to the place where the brushes are attached and their easy replacement.

The brushes are hidden under a cover above the engine manifold.

Drill bits and their installation

In addition to drilling holes, an electric drill is capable of performing a variety of other tasks. For this, various nozzles have been developed and produced, with which you can grind, polish, cut or sharpen. All nozzles are attached to the drill chuck, just like a conventional drill.

Polishing nozzle

Designed for polishing surfaces with abrasive materials. This can be sandpaper or a felt base on which GOI paste is applied. The nozzle is a rotating flat surface, which is used to process the material to be ground.

Replaceable sheets of sandpaper are attached with Velcro

Nozzles for coarse cleaning of materials

To clean metal surfaces (for example, pipes), wire nozzles (scrubbers) are used. They are a cylinder, on the surface of which there are hard bristles made of metal wire. They are produced with bristles of different stiffness, ranging from thin wire to pieces of cables.

The bristles of the brushes are made of galvanized wire.

Nozzle "cricket"

The nozzle called "cricket" turns the drill into nibblers for metal.

The nozzle is clamped into the drill chuck - metal scissors are ready

With the help of a "cricket" you can cut holes in metal sheets up to 1.6 mm thick. The nozzle has performed very well in roofing works when it is necessary to fit and cut metal sheets of a given shape.

Video: nozzle-scissors for metal "Cricket"

Nozzle - file

A nozzle made of abrasive material makes it possible to significantly facilitate work when performing work on sharpening parts, fitting grooves and holes. Represented by a wide range of sharpening stones of various shapes and sizes. Among the nozzles there are conical, cylindrical, flat, spherical stones.

Despite their small size, the nozzles are very effective in their work.

Milling attachments

Drill bits designed to perform milling work on wood or plastic are also called cutters. With their help, you can make a groove, groove, recess of given sizes.

Rollers are available in different shapes and sizes

According to the shape and purpose, cones are divided into:

• cylindrical;
• disk;
• end and end;
• shaped.

The type of cutter is selected for a specific task in accordance with the density of the material and the power of the electric drill.

Other nozzles

For cutting materials

There is a nozzle with which you can saw wood, metal or plastic. The principle of operation of its mechanism is similar to the device electric jigsaw. The kit includes a set of files with different shapes and number of teeth. Such a nozzle can easily cope with cutting wooden board up to 20 mm thick, as well as chipboard or plywood. For cutting more massive workpieces, it is still better to use a jigsaw.

For drilling large holes

For drilling holes of large diameter, special devices and tools are available that can be used as equipment for an electric drill. To make large holes use:

• crowns - steel cylinders with teeth or spraying - for wood, stone or tile;
• feather drills - metal plates with a center and two blades - for wood and plywood;
• beam drills - long pins with spiral grooves - for drilling thick wooden beams;
• Forstner drills are a specially shaped tool with numerous cutting edges for precise and clean holes in wood.

For tightening fasteners

Drill attachments are widely used and used for driving screws, bolts and nuts. Their diversity is comparable only to the huge range of products that exists in the world of fasteners. With these nozzles, provided that the speed range of the drill includes low-speed modes, the electric drill turns into a full-fledged screwdriver or wrench.

Set of nozzles for screwing screws and nuts

Drill mixer

It is also impossible to ignore such a useful practical function of an electric drill as its use as a mixer when mixing paints, gypsum and other mixtures.

Using a special whisk for kneading, you can successfully give the desired shade of paint at home or stir the glue for wallpapering. In addition, light building mixtures such as gypsum or putty can also be mixed using a drill.

It should be remembered that excessive overloads on the drill can damage the main mechanism of the tool - the electric motor. It is not recommended to use a drill as a mixer when mixing heavy concrete mixtures. For this, there are special concrete mixers and mixers.

Attention! If the body of the drill is hot, and the motor is buzzing hard, you should stop and give the machine time to cool.

Drill-drilling machine

The drill can be used as a drilling machine. Drilling blanks will be much more convenient. Ready-made racks are sold in stores with a drill clamp, feed lever and vise.

Drill stand turns a household tool into a drill press

You can make a drilling machine from an electric drill with your own hands. Such a machine consists of a frame, vertical rack, rotary mechanism and feeder. Despite the simplicity of the design, the machine significantly improves the accuracy of machining parts.

Video: do-it-yourself drilling machine from a drill

Among the numerous nozzles for electric drills produced by the industry, there are also such “exotic” specimens as a pump nozzle for pumping liquids or a special nozzle for plucking poultry feathers. AT Everyday life they are not as often in demand as carpentry and locksmith tools, which are used in almost every home.

An electric drill can save you money and energy. For home and one-time work, you do not need to buy several professional machines. Special nozzles will make the tool versatile: drilling and cutting, grinding and turning, kneading and chiselling - this is not a complete list of operations available for a drill. To work was a joy, you must follow the safety rules

You can drill a hole in any material without much effort by using a hand-held power tool, such as a drill, a drill driver. Probably everyone in the home workshop has such a tool. But when it comes to drilling a large number, moreover, with great accuracy or at a certain angle, it becomes necessary to use a drilling machine.

Drilling machines for home production can be bought at stores selling such equipment. Basically, this is equipment of joint production - Russia - China, for example, under the name Caliber, Bison, Encore Corvette, there is a purely Chinese manufacturer. Prices for them from 7900 rubles. In principle, it’s not so expensive if you tweak the design a little, but the quality - as it turns out, it happens that it comes across and not bad. There are many models made in Switzerland - China, although they are more expensive, but the reviews are not bad.

Drilling machine Caliber, previously manufactured in Moscow, power 400 W

Joint production means that developments, for example, in Russia, are made by Chinese workers. At the same time, the name, design and quality of the machine is preserved.

On such a machine, with the help of devices, the accuracy of drilling will be much higher, you can install the workpiece in a vice and drill at the desired angle, the number of holes per unit of time will be produced more. In addition, if you need to drill holes with a diameter of, for example, 1.5 mm, you can’t do without a machine.

DIY drilling machines

If you buy a machine, then remake the stand, which is very thin and unreliable for most machines, and also constantly repair a failing spindle, it is much easier and more profitable to use the drill that you have and make a drilling machine out of it yourself using standard drawings and scheme . Of course, you should not use a hand drill, if you are already making a machine, then it is good and reliable, but if it is not possible to use an electric drill, and there is a manual one, you can use it.

The main thing in such a machine is to firmly fix the main stand-pipe, on which there will be a support for the structure and a screw that will be running. The drill, planted in the holder, will move along it.

Machine from a hand drill, which can be completely assembled from wooden parts.

Of the complex structures, only the vernier scale installed with a special drum can be named, but in extreme cases, you can do without this node. An example of how such a simple do-it-yourself drilling machine is made from a drill can be seen in the photo, where the author used a connecting rod to make a mount into which the drill will be attached. Also an original and at the same time simple solution for cable tension.

General form machine tool
Cable fastening on the principle of fastening a string in a guitar

For the manufacture of a table and fastening a drill, you can use rolled metal, preferably a rectangular pipe. Of course, this is more likely not a machine, but rather an adapter for a drill, but it does its job well.

If the machine is small, rather a desktop mini machine that will be used for small jobs, you can make a structure for it from wood and plywood, as shown in the first diagram. In the manufacture, it must be borne in mind that such nodes as the lever that regulates the feed of the drill and the spring that gives rigidity to the mechanism must be present in the design. If the drill is mounted for permanent use, it would be more convenient to remake the start button.

Basically, with their own hands, such drilling machines from a drill are made desktop, so you need to take care that the plate stands firmly, there are no distortions on it. In addition, if possible, it would be nice to cut grooves for the movement of the vise, so that along with drilling, small milling work could be carried out.

Using a powerful drill to make a drilling machine, manufacturing features

For milling in combination with drilling and for long-term drilling in metal with a large diameter of drills, they make a drilling machine with their own hands from a drill that has high power and belongs to the class of professional tools.

A powerful drill requires a more powerful stand

A feature of using such a drill is its weight and high vibration during operation. Due to the fact that it uses a slightly larger engine, all parts are made of metal, double insulation is usually used, the weight of the drill is higher than that of household ones. Therefore, the manufacture of such a rack should be only metal, in addition, the table should be more massive.

In this case, there are a lot of factory parts, but for a powerful drill, these parts are a godsend.

We make the return spring also more powerful, as well as the cable on which the clamp works, must be at least 4 mm in diameter. We also make the handles more powerful, using a rolled metal rod with a diameter of about 12 mm. For the frame, it is better to take rolled metal, the use of a square or rectangular pipe will be especially successful, it can be 50 x 50 or 40 x 60. We take iron for the desktop at least 3 mm, we weld taking into account the right angle.

We make the base for the rack

We assemble all parts by welding or using 10-12 mm bolts. The finished board should look like this:

The base plate is finished, it remains to paint

Everything must be powerful enough.

Ready stand with drill holder
Lifting and lowering mechanism

We take an asterisk and a chain from an old car, you can find it at a scrap yard.

Watch a video on how to make a do-it-yourself drilling machine from a powerful drill:

Horizontally - a do-it-yourself drilling machine made from a drill.

In order to drill a hole, for example, inside a long shaft, using a vertically drilling machine, even if purchased, it will not be possible to do this qualitatively, no matter how hard you try. Therefore, the idea of ​​​​making a machine with a horizontal feed will be very useful.

Consider an example of the manufacture of such a machine. To begin with, we sketch a diagram and decide on the tool and materials for our home-made device.

An example of making a do-it-yourself horizontal drilling stand

You need to have either a circular or sawing machine, drill or drill - a screwdriver, hand tools, such as a chisel, hammer, various screwdrivers and similar tools.

If we make a fixture out of wood, as in our case, we need to prepare a board, it is better to take pine and plywood 12-15 mm, a piece of chipboard. Standard bolts, self-tapping screws, a bushing, you can take ready-made guides for furniture drawers, you can make it, a nut - an impeller, a handle, long bolts - these are like accessories.

You can try the next, more advanced version.

We assemble a frame from bars and chipboard boards, the width of the board is 20 cm, the length is about a meter. We make two guides that can be moved apart and fixed to a certain width with the help of fastening long screws. For precise drilling, we draw a line that runs strictly along the continuation of the drill. The table can also be raised to the required height with the help of long screws. We make it from plywood and before installation we grind and polish it well. The table is raised by rotating the handle and, as it were, shifting the rectangular prisms with an oblique side against each other. For better sliding on their sides, we stuff strips of laminate.

We install the drill in a special stand made of plywood or a board.

Mounting the drill in a horizontal position

A very good assembly option can be seen in this video:

According to the last example, even if you have to tinker with it, the design will be very reliable, it will be possible to withstand the minimum allowable deviations on it and, in theory, it should serve for a long time. Since such a machine will withstand vibration due to the position of the drill, the play in the joints will not increase.

Good afternoon everyone! In this review, I will show how I managed to make a small, simple drilling machine from an purchased drill stand and an available, but rarely used, hand-held electric drill. I tried to make a complete and convenient device for amateur and domestic needs, without pretensions to professional use. As always, in the review, a description of the process, drawings, and the result obtained.

All previous years, for drilling holes, I completely managed with a screwdriver, well, very rarely with a hand drill. This was quite enough, there were no problems on parts with a small thickness. Another issue is drilling clearly vertical holes in a large thickness of the material, sometimes it turns out to control the verticality of the drill, sometimes not very much.
Reaming a smaller hole with a larger diameter drill: often, when reaming, the original center of the hole could shift, depending on how the drill finds itself there.

To avoid all these problems, critical parts and workpieces must be drilled on a drilling machine, which naturally does not exist.
I have already reached the condition when a drilling machine is needed, but I don’t know what exactly I want from it, what parameters are important to me, and which one to choose. Therefore, in order to gain experience and form my future needs, for a better and more efficient investment in a drilling machine in the future, I decided to practice on a homemade machine from a stand for a hand drill.

It was possible to just buy a stand, place a drill in it and use it, but I needed to make it convenient to turn the drill on and off, as well as conveniently adjust the rotation speed. Therefore, I decided to make a small pedestal for the rack, with controls placed in it, as well as a box for drills and other accessories.
And at the very base of the rack, I decided to make a wider table for placing and fixing workpieces for drilling. During the design process, the following design turned out (the stand and the drill in the model are different, I took it from 3D Warehouse):

The design of the box is as follows, with an organizer installed in it for frequently used drills:

Drawings with dimensions:

Having studied the expanses of the network and reviews, an already fairly well-known stand for a drill with an all-metal column and a cast-iron base and carriage was chosen. ()
Some photos of unpacking and assembly:

People in the reviews write about the backlash in the plastic carriage guide, and a slight backlash at the column-carriage point, but not all of them. I got the backlash of the plastic guide, which was cured by simply putting a piece of plastic from the paper folder. The backlash disappeared altogether, the carriage began to move up and down hard, but thick silicone grease removed this problem as well. The stand is excellent, heavy, monumental!

An old but vigorous drill Interskol DU13 / 780ER acted as the working part of our machine:

The drill fits tightly into the receiving socket on the stand, there are no backlashes, the fixation is excellent:

We begin to collect our pedestal with a box. Sawing the details of the pedestal. In the project, I laid plywood 10 mm thick, but it so happened that I had an already started sheet of 12 mm, which for some reason I took for 10 mm, because of this my dimensions floated and for a long time I could not understand why):

We collect on self-tapping screws and PVA:

We file the details of the inner drawer, the bottom of the drawer is made of 6mm plywood:

Assembling the box:

We prepare and glue the back and front plugs of the pedestal:

For the drawer we use furniture ball guides:

To attach the box to the hinges, I put a sheet of plywood next to it and placed four 10-ruble coins to create an even gap between the box and the base of the pedestal:

We cut and glue the front panel of the box onto the PVA, we also adjust the gaps with coins:

Don't forget to make a handle to open the drawer:

As a filling for on / off control and speed control, I picked up the following kit in the bins: a relay with a 230V coil, two buttons, with NO and NC contacts, and a triac speed controller (2000W) from Aliexpress:

On the front panel we mark the holes for the buttons and the regulator potentiometer:

We drill holes. Under the potentiometer knob, I had to make a small recess with a dremel with a cutter, since the thickness of the front panel is 6 mm, and the knob did not sit normally on the potentiometer shaft:

Trying buttons:

On the back plug of the button block, I decided to put a socket under the drill plug, as well as a stuffing box for the mains power wire:

We take the top cover of the pedestal, mark and drill holes for attaching the base of the stand (I didn’t glue the top cover of the pedestal, I fixed it only with self-tapping screws):

We turn to the manufacture of the drilling table. We will make from two sheets of plywood:

We connect two sheets into four self-tapping screws, mark out and cut out a groove under the column of our rack with a jigsaw, refine it with a dremel:

We mark the rounding of the corners:

We mark, take a milling cutter and with a groove cutter f10mm along the plywood stop we make grooves for the movable table clamps, as well as the rounding of the table:

We disassemble our part, take the bottom sheet, mark and drill holes in it for attaching the table to the base of the rack:

On the reverse side, for fastening I used such fasteners with an M8 thread to drown the hats, I made recesses with a dremel:

We take the top sheet of the table, mark and cut out a square hole 70x70 mm for a removable insert. The liner is placed offset from the center so that it can be turned over and all sides of the liner square can be used:

We glue both sheets of our table on PVA:

Preparing clamps for the table. I made them from scraps of plywood, beveled the resulting heel a little to get a good clamp on thin parts. The 8mm hole for the clamping bolt was slightly worked out in the longitudinal direction so that the bolt in the part could deviate relative to the vertical axis.

Let's try our clamp in action, using a long M8 furniture bolt, washers and a wing nut:

We take all the received parts of the machine, grind and cover with oil:

We put all the components of the power supply and control system, the buttons and relays are connected according to the self-pickup scheme:

We do a power-up check, set everything up and fix the wires:

From the bottom of the pedestal we put rubberized legs:

We fix the drilling table to the base of the stand with M8 nuts:

We insert the box, we look at what has happened so far:

We turn to the manufacture of an organizer for drills. All details of the horizontal compartment of the organizer are made of 6mm plywood. We cut out the base according to the drawing, saw thin strips of plywood, and assemble the sides on PVA:

We cut 6mm wide dividers on the table (for such operations, I had to make a zero-gap liner from aluminum on the sawing table, since the original surface of the table was already worn out, and severe chips went on the plywood):

We glue the dividers through a 14 mm template on PVA. I took the depth and width (6x14 mm) of the compartment based on my fingers so that I could easily take a small drill from the bottom of the compartment:

I decided to make a vertical organizer for the most common drills (two compartments for drills for metal and wood) from 12 mm plywood, but glue a strip of 6 mm plywood on top, since it is very bad to drill into the end of plywood:

Trying our vertical organizer to the horizontal one:

We mark and drill holes in the organizer on our table with all available drills, from 8mm to 1mm with a diameter step of 1mm:

Trying both organizers in the drawer:

Cover with oil new parts, put in a box. We put the vertical organizer on small loops so that it can be folded to a fully vertical position and have access to the drills in the lower compartment.
In front of the horizontal organizer, I glued an emphasis from a piece of plywood 6mm in the box, after it in the box a little later there will be an organizer for cutters, countersinks and other large drills. I also prepared several square interchangeable liners:

We assemble all the details of the machine, fold and fasten the drill cable so that it does not interfere:

We work:

The drilling machine worked well. Drilling is much more convenient, and most importantly more accurate and accurate. Of course, there is no maintenance of speed, it would be even more comfortable with it, but I’m already starting to get used to what speed should be set on the drill and the immersion force for the material, so as not to squander the drill, but also not to spoil the workpiece or part with high speeds. This is all worked out by experience. I will work on it, I will understand what I need and it is important from the machine, what parameters will be critical for me, in order to possibly consider an “adult” machine in the future.

In the near future, I plan to make a small vise for vertical fastening of workpieces and a grinding drum to the machine, I need them for upcoming projects.