Sauna stove skoroparka: features of work, pros and cons. Sauna oven pressure cooker: features of work, pros and cons Sauna stove pressure cooker
A bit of bath theory: the most comfortable range of temperature and humidity combinations in a Russian bath is defined as the sum of temperature values in degrees Celsius (for example, 65 ° C) and relative humidity in percent (for example, 45%). In our example, the sum of the values \u200b\u200bis equal to 110, which corresponds to a comfortable value (110-120). We recommend keeping the temperature in the steam room between 50°C and 70°C.
It turns out that the Russian steam bath is good and loved by everyone, but, unlike the dry-air bath, preparing it is long and troublesome. And why? And because a lot of "correct" fine steam can only be obtained from a mountain of hot stones.
And we thought, what if we exclude this longest procedure from the process of preparing a Russian steam bath - heating a large mass of stones to a high temperature. And we did it! With the Skoropark stove, you can get an unlimited amount of the lightest hot steam without stones at all.
Just pour water into this stove and 15-20 minutes after it boils, go to steam. The stove will prepare a Russian steam bath for you. That's why it's called a steam oven..
Skoroparka, Geyser and kettle - what's the difference?
We repeat - as a couple! Saturated heavy steam rises from the kettle, it burns, it is impossible for them to breathe!
It gives out high-quality steam, because it has the same mountain of red-hot stones - in the inner and outer heaters. But to maintain a special microclimate in the bath, skill and experience are required, as well as constant monitoring by the steamer.
Skoroparka, on the other hand, constantly accumulates real and life-giving steam, which creates background humidity and correct, and most importantly, stable conditions. The air in the bath is not too dry, it's easy to breathe! The secret is that the steam heats up additionally (read more below in the Skoroparka Construction section, and also watch the video).
Skoroparka - user reviews on Banyafest
The stove of Skoroparka has repeatedly become a participant in the Banyafest international class bathing event. And there were always queues for the bathhouse with the Skoropark stove, and it always collected rave reviews from users. In these two videos, not just emotions, but the opinions of experts in bath procedures.
Skoroparka - questions and answers
- How is it different from conventional ovens?
Ordinary sauna stoves only heat and dry the air in the steam room, and this stove constantly moisturizes it. Because in this innovative oven, the main tool for preparing a bath is superheated water vapor with a temperature of up to 400 C.
- Is she safe?
No more dangerous than other sauna stoves. In each sauna stove there is fire, hot metal, tens of liters of boiling water and scalding hot steam, which are dangerous only if handled carelessly. The Skoroparka steam oven is absolutely safe if the instructions for use are observed. - Does the steam come out under high pressure?
No. The steam comes out at about the same pressure as air from a baby balloon. - Is it possible to get burned by the steam coming out of it?
The place where the steam exits the Skoropark furnace is inaccessible to casual touch, and at a short distance from it, the steam dissolves in the air, quickly cooling to a safe temperature. - How good is the steam it produces?
The superheated steam from the Skoroparka stove is superior in quality to the steam obtained from any heaters, which actually produce not steam, but a steam-water-dust mixture. In it, one way or another, there are visible water splashes and a suspension of invisible tiny droplets of water, as well as dust from stones and salts dissolved in the evaporated water. The superheated steam leaving the steam room from the Skoropark steam oven is close to ideal. There is practically nothing in it, except for individual water molecules. The steam coming out of Skoropark's steam oven is so hot that it can ignite wood, paper, and even melt lead. - How to use it to prepare a bath?
Pour water into the tank and fire up the stove as usual at maximum power. 15-20 minutes after the water boils, when the bath is ready, switch the stove to an economical combustion mode. - How does she do it?
After boiling water, invisible superheated steam begins to flow into the steam room from the Skoropark steam oven. It quickly dissolves in the air, bringing to the steam room exactly the amount of heat and moisture that is needed to create the conditions of a Russian steam bath and soar with a broom. At first, the steam condenses abundantly on the floor, on the ceiling, on the walls, on the shelves and thereby quickly heats them up. Then, after reaching the dew point temperature, they dry out and remain dry and pleasantly warm. - Probably, in the bath from the steam it becomes damp?
No. Relative humidity in the steam room in steady state does not exceed 40-60%. This is the optimal humidity for a typical Russian steam bath. - Where to put the extra steam?
The oven does not produce "extra" steam. With an increase in air temperature from room temperature to 60 C, its moisture capacity increases several times. And all the steam dissolves in the hot air of the steam room. - How hot is it in a sauna with this stove?
With the Skoroparka steam oven you can create any microclimate in bath - from the softest and most comfortable for delicate women and small children to extremely hot for the most hardened "steelworkers". - How to make it hotter or colder?
Simply increase or decrease the burning power of firewood with a blower, as in any sauna stove. Eliminate unwanted overheating of the steam room by ventilation. For a sharp rise in humidity, use a tube heater - splash water from a ladle into it. It is recommended to use, or a similar product from other manufacturers. - Where can I get hot water for washing and steaming brooms?
From the same tank where saturated steam is generated. - Why do you need a stone?
The presence of a large mass of hot stones for this stove is not necessary, so the role of the heater in this stove is auxiliary. The heater serves only for periodic steam accents (a sharp increase in humidity). - How to dry a steam room after a bath?
The superheated steam coming out of Skoropark's steam oven has an amazing ability to dry wood and stone. To quickly dry the steam room after the bath, melt the stove at full power and fully open the supply and exhaust ventilation. - Does she need any special ventilation in the steam room?
Ventilate the steam room in accordance with the instruction manual. It is advisable to make a swing window in the steam room, as it should be in Russian baths. - Are there any recommendations for warming and vapor barrier steam room?
Insulate the steam room as thoroughly as possible and perform its vapor barrier. - Is it possible to use it to heat the washing room adjacent to the steam room?
The washing room adjacent to the steam room can be warmed up as usual by opening the doors to the steam room after it has warmed up, provided that the washing room is heat and steam insulated and equipped with ventilation. - How to use it to warm up the rest room?
You can warm up a rest room or other dry rooms adjacent to a steam room using a stove-mounted
Skoroparka 2017 oven - further development range of innovative TMF wood burning sauna stoves with continuous steam generation for fast food Russian steam bath. The furnace is designed for steam rooms from 12 to 24 cubic meters.
The price of the "Skoroparka 2017" kit, in addition to the stove itself with a heater, includes a tank for hot water with a capacity of 52 liters and the first shielded steam-cooled starter chimney module.
This stove has been built on the basis of seven years of experience in the design, operation, criticism and public discussion of previous models of continuous steam sauna stoves.
The oven has all the advantages of previously produced TMF steam ovens, namely:
The main tool for preparing a Russian steam bath is superheated water vapor with a temperature of up to 400 ° C at the outlet of the furnace.
Allows you to get and maintain the classic conditions of the Russian steam bath for shortest time with minimal human involvement.
It produces an unlimited amount of superheated steam, a quality unattainable for traditional ovens.
Allows you to quickly change the microclimate in the bath - from the softest and most comfortable to extremely
hot.
The heating time of the steam room to the temperature and humidity characteristic of the Russian steam bath in summer period approximately 15-20 minutes, in winter about 30-40 minutes.
Many potential buyers of sauna steam ovens have previously refrained from purchasing them because these ovens had a very unusual appearance, they did not have a heater, and the built-in tank for hot water and steam generation was not large enough.
Therefore, the main differences between the new Skoroparka 2017 stove and previous models are the familiar classic design of TMF sauna stoves, a built-in non-ventilated heater and a tank for hot water and steam generation increased to 52 liters.
Since the Skoroparka 2017 stove has the installation and overall dimensions of medium-class TMF sauna stoves, it is easily mounted in their place.
The design of the main components of a bath stove with continuous steam generation has changed significantly: a firebox, a heater, a tank for heating water and a superheater.
The firebox has become rectangular and more spacious. Now it is designed for a large length of firewood - up to 50 cm. The side and rear surfaces of the firebox are cooled by air convection. The stove received a built-in non-ventilated heater with a capacity of 20 liters, heated from below by radiation from the flame and from the side by convection heat from the outgoing hot gases. The heater allows you to dramatically raise the humidity in the steam room for steam accents.
The tank for water heating and steam generation has significantly increased in volume - up to 52 liters. It is made of 2mm thick stainless steel. All hermetic welds of the tank are tee-type, placed outside, easily accessible for inspection and repairable at home. The tank is heated from below by radiation from the flame, and from the side by the convection heat of the outgoing hot gases. The heating surfaces of the steam generation tank have been increased to 26 square decimeters, which has increased the steam component of the furnace heat output.
The built-in tank of the furnace has a wide mouth through which it is convenient to pour water from a bucket, it is easy to inspect and clean the tank. The mouth of a tank has the condensed cover with the convenient lock. An emergency valve is located on the tank cover, which reduces the pressure in the tank in case of an emergency.
To maintain a constant water level in the tank, it can be connected to an additional large volume tank through any of the two collapsible taps located on both sides of the furnace.
The steamer of the furnace has become a pipe one - now it is built into the starting module of the chimney, which is part of the furnace. Since the temperature in the chimney changes significantly depending on the intensity of the furnace, the temperature of the steam leaving the steam room from the superheater also changes with it. This is done in order to obtain high-temperature steam for the fastest heating of the steam room and moderately hot steam for soaring with a broom and preventing overdrying of the steam room.
Between the hot wall of the starting module of the chimney and its outer casing there is a spiral guide, along which steam from the boiling tank of the furnace passes from the bottom up along the spiral path and is superheated to the required temperature from the thermal radiation of the chimney wall.
In the first time after the furnace is kindled and before the start of steam generation, the outer casing of the on-tube superheater heats up significantly for the speedy heating of the steam room by thermal radiation. After the start of steam generation, its temperature drops sharply and thermal radiation from the on-tube superheater is almost not felt. On top of the on-pipe superheater, at the point of superheated steam outlet, a conical deflector is installed for better steam dissolution in the steam room air.
The Skoroparka 2017 oven prepares a steam bath with a slightly higher relative humidity at the same temperature than previously produced steam ovens and without reducing the relative humidity during the steaming process.
3 modifications of the Skoroparka 2017 stove are serially produced: with a standard fuel channel and a stainless glazed door for firing a furnace from an adjacent room, with a short fuel channel and a stainless glazed door for firing from a steam room, and with a large translucent screen "Vitra" for firing a stove from adjacent premises. All modifications of the stove are produced in anthracite decor.
The design of the furnace is shown in Figure 2. A galvanized or enameled cone-shaped tank with a lid is inserted into a casing made of roofing steel. A pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is connected to the stove, like a samovar, with a wind extinguisher. The pipe is put on the pocket branch pipe, and it is fastened to the side of the casing with rivets. A hole is cut in the casing under the pocket. On both sides of the casing, two handles are attached for the possible carrying of the oven, mounted on legs. Door size - 150 x170 mm. An ash pan is attached under the firebox door.
A tray with holes is placed on the bottom of the casing, which serves as a grate and protects the bottom from rapid burning. For the same purpose, an insert is placed on the pallet, the diameter of which is 20 mm smaller than the inner diameter of the casing. In the insert, a hole equal to it is located strictly opposite the door.
The tank can be with or without handles. If with handles - measure its diameter 20 mm below the handles and make a casing according to this diameter. If the tank is without handles, then, stepping back from the upper edge of the sides by 70-100 mm, measure its diameter. The tank must fit tightly into the casing made of roofing steel: then hot gases do not leak in these places, but heat the tank inside the casing.
The tank is made of galvanized steel or aluminium. The first is suitable only for heating water or boiling laundry. In the latter case, a tray with holes made of galvanized steel, aluminum or wood should be placed on the bottom of the tank so that the linen does not burn.
The casing can be composite, from several sheets, which are fastened to the close by welding or rivets.
The furnace hole is arranged 47 mm from the bottom of the casing. The door should be 10 mm larger than the furnace hole in length and width. Under the firebox for air supply under the pallet, 4 holes are made 0 15 mm.
You can make a casing from thicker metal - for durability, but its upper part is round so that there is practically no gap between it and the tank.
Rice. 1. Do-it-yourself pressure cooker oven:
(L - general form, B - front view, C side view, D - version with a cone-shaped casing):
1 - casing, 2 - cone-shaped tank, 3 - pipe 4 - pocket with nozzles, 5 - handle, 6 - legs, 7 - ash pan, 8 - firebox door, 9 - pan, 10 - insert, 11 - blower holes.
If it is impossible to buy or make a cone-shaped tank, use a straight or large pan: then the casing is made cone-shaped. It may be straight, but for this, the top is covered with a lid with a hole where a pan with handles or another vessel is inserted.
A furnace of this design is sometimes made of brick, adobe or adobe concrete. It is installed permanently, under a canopy. Over time, an adobe or clay-concrete furnace is fired from the inside - a solid shard is formed - ceramics. At proper care this oven lasts a long time.
These small, simple ovens come in a variety of designs and are used for a variety of purposes. Entirely metal, heating, are made of sheet steel of various thicknesses. They are divided into simple and frame. For the first, the body is formed by the sheet itself, for the second, under it, like under a shirt, a frame is hidden - a steel frame. The latter are more convenient for self-manufacturing. Metal ovens are round, square, rectangular.
small heating furnaces can be folded from brick square or rectangular. They are suitable for both heating and drying rooms, products, lumber, etc.
Roofing steel stoves are suitable only as temporary ones: they burn out quickly. To protect the body from burning through and to increase heat transfer, it is lined on the inside - a quarter or half is lined with bricks; you can do the same with clay or clay concrete. Claystone - very thick clay, hardly kneaded by runes; adobe concrete - the same adobe, but with the addition of fine brick gravel.
Lined furnaces heat up more slowly, but keep heat longer. It should be recalled that earlier in the countryside many clay ovens were made and they served for decades.
The lining of furnaces can be of different thickness: from 10 to 120 mm. Up to 70 mm, it is more expedient to make it from glycobit or clay concrete, above - from brick.
All stoves require particularly strict fire safety measures. It should be recalled that metal heats up very strongly, often red-hot. They should be placed as far as possible from flammable objects - at a distance of 1000 mm.
Closely located easily igniting partitions are plastered with a layer of lime, lime-gypsum or cement mortar with a thickness of at least 28 small, on felt upholstered with shreds or frequent metal mesh. Instead of plaster, sometimes the same surfaces are lined with bricks over felt.
In order to prevent the fire of the butt, a so-called pre-furnace sheet of roofing steel with a size of 500X700 mm is attached in front of each furnace. It is laid on felt soaked in clay mortar. They do it like this. The blank cut from the sheet is painted on both sides oil paint, dry. The felt is moistened in a creamy clay solution (it will protect the felt from overheating, as well as from moths), laid on a pre-furnace sheet, and dried well. Then the resulting "sandwich" is carefully placed under the firebox of the furnace with the metal up and nailed to the floor.
SHEET STEEL FURNACES
Regardless of the shape and thickness of the sheet from which they are made, their joints are connected to the edge with lying folds, welding or riveting.
Furnaces can be on policies or without them. The latter are placed on the so-called trenches - brick racks with a height of at least 130 mm. Then the air, circulating under the trenches, will cool the floor. At the installation site of both furnaces, it is necessary to put felt soaked in clay, close it with roofing steel, and put the furnace on top - on legs or trenches.
Rice. 1. Roofing steel furnaces (A - a simple furnace, B - (improved, C - a furnace with a steel sheet, D - with a pipe in the back wall, D - a frame furnace with a cast-iron stove):
1 - legs, 2 - blower door, 3 - firebox door, 4 - box or casing, 5 - branch pipe, 6 - grate, 7 - ash pan, 8 - cast iron stove.
Consider the main types of designs of metal home-made furnaces.
simple oven(Fig. 1 A) consists of a steel box with a branch pipe at the top and a firebox door on the opposite side. It is more difficult to lining such a furnace. It is more practical to make it with a removable top.
This stove may not have a blower, but it will work better if you drill several holes along the bottom of the door or under it 15-25 mm above the bottom edge of the stove. It is possible to close these holes with a special valve, regulating the air supply to the furnace, which is necessary for the full combustion of the fuel.
Improved Furnace(Fig. 1B). It consists of a box or casing, legs, a blower door, a firebox, a grate - cast iron or sheet steel with punched holes, a pipe with a metal pipe and a blower or ash pan. The pipe is assembled from several sleeves and two gauges.
The stove does not have a massive body capable of accumulating heat, so, like the previous one, it quickly heats up, but it also cools down quickly.
During the furnace, the temperature in the furnace reaches 700 ° C, so it is better to line it. And for convenience in work, a removable top should be arranged. Near the firebox and ash pan, the lining may be somewhat thicker than at the rear wall.
Furnaces with additional improvement(Fig. 1 C, D). The two previous ovens are supposed to be used for cooking and heating food. It will be more convenient and faster to do this if you upgrade the firebox a little. It is recommended to install a steel sheet at a distance of 50-70 mm from the top to form a horizontal channel. To do this, it is best to stretch the wire under the sheet in two places, and bend the sides near the sheet itself. The sheet is laid so that it fits snugly between the side and back walls, but can be freely removed for replacement in case of burnout. If the nozzle chimney is attached to the back wall, then the sheet is shaped as shown in Figure 1 D.
Frame Steel Furnace(Fig. 1 E) is the most versatile. For its manufacture, you can use a commercially available top cast-iron stove - deaf or with one or two burners right size. According to the dimensions of this plate, a frame is made of angle steel in such a way that there are gaps of at least 10-15 mm between its sides and the plate - for the thermal expansion of the metal when heated. If the plate, for example, is 1000X600 mm in size, then the frame is 1015 X X615 mm.
Racks and side braces made of steel angles are attached to the frame, they are lined with sheet steel by welding or riveted, lined, a grate and a steel sheet for a horizontal channel are laid. On such a stove it is convenient to cook or heat food, it heats the room well. It should be emphasized that the bottom of the furnace is also lined.
PRESSURE OVEN
On this stove, water quickly boils, fodder for livestock is boiled or steamed. Fuel is required at the same time much less than for other similar furnaces. It can be portable or stationary.
The design of the furnace is shown in Figure 2. B casing made of roofing steel, a galvanized or enamelled cone-shaped tank with a lid is inserted. A pipe d 100 mm is connected to the stove, like a samovar, with a wind extinguisher. The pipe is put on the pocket branch pipe, and it is attached to the side of the casing with rivets. A hole is cut in the casing of the iodine pocket. On both sides of the casing, two handles are attached for the possible carrying of the stove installed on policies. Door size - 150X170 mm. An ash pan leans under the firebox door.
A tray with holes is placed on the bottom of the casing, which serves as a grate and protects the bottom from rapid burning. For the same purpose, an insert is placed on the pallet, the diameter of which is 20 mm less than the inner diameter of the casing. In the insert, a hole equal to it is located strictly opposite the door.
(A - general view, B - front view, C - side view, D - version with a cone-shaped casing):
1 - casing, 2 - cone-shaped tank, 3 - pipe, 4 - pocket with pipe, 5 - handle, 6 - legs, 7 ash pan, 8 - firebox door, 9 - pan, 10 - insert, 11 - blower holes.
The tank can be with or without handles. If with handles - measure its diameter 20 mm below the handles and make a casing according to this diameter. If the tank is without handles, then, stepping back from the upper edge of the sides by 70-100 mm, measure its diameter. The tank must fit tightly into the casing made of roofing steel: then hot gases do not leak in these places, but heat the tank inside the casing.
The tank is made of galvanized steel or aluminium. The first is suitable only for heating water or boiling laundry. In the latter case, a tray with holes in galvanized steel, aluminum or wood should be placed on the bottom of the tank so that the laundry does not burn.
The casing can be composite, from several sheets, which are fastened to the close by welding or rivets.
The furnace hole is arranged 47 mm from the bottom of the casing. The door should be 10 mm larger than the furnace hole in length and width. Under the firebox for air supply, an iodine pallet is made with 4 holes d 15 mm.
It is also possible to make a casing from thicker metal - for durability, but its upper part is made round so that there is practically no gap between it and the tank.
If it is impossible to buy or make a cone-shaped tank, use a straight or large pan: then the casing is made cone-shaped. It may be straight, but for this, the top is covered with a lid with a hole where a pan with handles or another vessel is inserted.
A furnace of this design is sometimes made of brick, adobe or adobe concrete. It is installed permanently, under a canopy. Over time, an adobe or clay-concrete furnace is fired, from the inside, a solid shard-ceramic is formed. With proper care, this stove will last a long time.
OVEN-KAMENKA
This original stove can be made up of two old steel barrels (Fig. 3A). In one, a firebox with a blower and a water tank is arranged, in the other - a heater that heats the room and gives steam if heated stones are poured with water.
She is set up like this. At the bottom there was a blower, above it there was a grate, above - the firebox itself. A tank is inserted into the barrel. In order for the heat to be used rationally, a hole is made in the middle of the barrel and a pipe is attached. A second barrel is connected to it, the pipe of which is located at the very bottom. To keep this barrel at the right level, it is placed on a stand. On the side, a hole is cut in it, closed by a lid. Through this hole, the barrel is filled with stones. A hole is made in the upper end of the barrel for attaching a branch pipe, on which pipe sleeves d 100-120 mm are put on.
(A - general view, B - section of the furnace, C - heater with a drying chamber, D - heater with an independent firebox):
1 - blower, 2 - firebox, 3 - casing, 4 - tank, 5 - branch pipe, 6 - door to the heater, 7 - stones, 8 - dryer.
In addition to its direct purpose, the heater can also serve as a dryer. To do this, put a little less stones, increase the hole for the door, inside guide corners are attached on both sides, along which trays with products are pushed into the drying barrel.
A square or rectangular dryer (fig. 3B) is more convenient, it is easier to attach guide corners to it. A hole for laying baking sheets is made in its entire width, the same door.
The dryer can be made with your own firebox (Fig. ZG), but you can also make it combined, by attaching a heater to the first barrel using a pipe.
A. SHEPELEV, engineer
Consider the design of the furnace. It consists of a casing or box 1 made of roofing or thicker steel, but which bends easily. Three legs 2, not less than 20 cm high, are attached to the casing, which is necessary according to fire safety rules when installing a pressure cooker on a wooden or other combustible floor. Under the casing door, an ash pan is arranged in the form of a box, above which there is a firebox 4, closed by a door. To supply air to the fuel, five holes with a diameter of 1-1.5 are made under the firebox, which are a blower. On both sides of the casing, handles 5 are attached, which is necessary for carrying the casing, or, more simply, the stove. We are considering a stove with a cylindrical casing, into which a cone-shaped enameled tank with a lid 6 should be inserted. The casing is made so that the tank rises 7-10 cm above it. The denser the walls of the casing cover the tank, the better, since heat will not escape through the gaps. A samovar-type pipe 7, 10 cm in diameter with a wind extinguisher, is installed in the stove.
In a pressure cooker, a tank without handles or with them is used. AT this case the casing will be made for a tank 35 cm high, 30 cm in diameter at the bottom, 40 cm at the lid. It is desirable to have a tank with a lid. For a device in the stove, a blower is installed on the bottom of the casing with a tray 8 with legs and holes round shape and raise it above the bottom by 2 cm, that is, slightly higher than drilled holes under the door. Thus, the pallet forms a blower and at the same time a grate. The diameter of the pallet is made 1.5-2 cm less than the diameter of the casing, which makes it easy to insert it into the casing from its upper side.
So that the lower part of the casing does not quickly burn through, an insert is inserted into it, with a diameter slightly smaller than the pallet. In it, exactly against the door, a hole is cut to match the size of the door or a little more.
The tank may be flush with the insert, slightly above or below it.
The diameter of the furnace depends on the size of the tank. Therefore, before proceeding with the manufacture of the casing, it is necessary to purchase or make the tank yourself, measure its diameter below the side by 7-10 cm, and if it is with handles, then 2-3 cm below them, and only then proceed to the manufacture of the casing.
The casing is made composite, riveted or welded. For this, steel of any thickness is used, but on condition that it is soft and can be straightened. The casing itself must be very round so that the tank fits into it as tightly as possible.
Instead of a cone-shaped tank, you can use a flat one, but arrange the furnace itself exactly as discussed above, or give the casing a cone-shaped shape with a broadening downwards.
According to this principle, you can fold the oven under a brick canopy. She might as well be mud. For the top of such furnaces, a thick steel sheet with holes cut out according to the diameter of the tanks is required. In order for the tank or tanks to put less pressure on the steel sheet and not increase its warping, brick columns (bricks) are substituted under the tanks in the firebox.
With the right selection of clay, good canopy such furnaces can serve for a very long time.
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