Grinding walls after putty - professional advice. The choice of grinder for walls and ceilings Sander of plaster and putty

Polishing or sanding walls is the last step in preparing them for wallpapering or painting. The procedure is necessary, because even after applying the finishing putty layer, there are still small tubercles, irregularities that appear due to the sharp ends of the spatula.

In the photo - grinding surfaces by hand

Below we will consider in detail the manual method of grinding walls, which is often used in home construction, and also touch on mechanized surface treatment.

Tip: do not use a primer after puttying, as grinding is done on putty.

What is used for sanding walls

Materials and tools include:

• manual skinner, which means a grinding standard beam;
• special grinding sponge with cut corners, used for hard-to-reach points;
• sanding net or sandpaper;

• a portable lamp or spotlight, so you need good lighting;
• high table or stepladder;
• a small spatula will not interfere;
• mask or respirator for respiratory protection, headgear and goggles.

Do not neglect eye and breathing protection, as the sanding process creates a cloud of fine plaster. Below will be described how to grind the putty on the walls and how best to do it.

Emery grit

Grinding can be done with a special sanding mesh having a different cell area, or with simple sandpaper. The main advantage of the first is that it is not clogged with dust and debris from putty ().

Emery is also a good choice for do-it-yourself sanding, and its price is somewhat less. However, on large areas it will have to be changed frequently, especially if it is fine-grained.

To determine its granularity, there are special numbers:

• macro-sizes - No. 20-220;
• microsizes - No. 240-2500.

Everything is simple here, if the number is larger, then the skin is smaller, the smaller number is coarser. For homework, Nos. 60-360 are most often used, less often a little smaller.

Sanding after sanding

The main rule when repairing a house is that sanding the walls after puttying is first carried out with coarse-grained sandpaper, and the last stage with fine-grained sandpaper. In this situation, after the first layer of putty, use numbers 120-180. It is possible and 80-100, but it will already be “rough” enough, so we will not advise.

When you cover the wall with a second layer of finishing putty, use emery with numbers 220-280 and below. In general, the choice of sandpaper and sanding mesh depends on the base coat. How to sand the walls after putty correctly will be described below.

Sanding the walls

Before starting the process:

• wait for the previous layer of putty to dry;
• put on a mask, goggles and headgear;
• prepare good lighting. Direct the light on the surface to be treated from one side and at an angle;
• remove too large bumps and protrusions with a small spatula.

The instruction will tell in detail about the manual process of grinding walls:

1. Choose the right sanding grit. Small numbers for starting grinding.

Tip: Purchase several types of emery with different grit in the supply store, for example, Nos. 100-180 and Nos. 220-360.

If there is any doubt about the correct choice of the product, go through a small area with it - there will be scratches, then it is better to take a larger skin number. Otherwise, the paint will not be able to cover such defects.

When preparing a wall for wallpapering, you don’t have to worry about minor flaws and scratches. They will be hidden by subsequent finishing. Grinding under the wallpaper is done much faster, since coarse emery can be used in this situation.

1. Attach the selected coarse sandpaper to the sanding beam with clamps and start polishing the surface. This should be done from top to bottom in small sections along the base surface, about 1-1.5 m.

Sand the surface with uniform circular movements of the hand. The scheme is also allowed - "left-right" and "up-down".

While doing this, press the sanding bar against the wall with little effort. Also, do not stay in one area for a long time, as this may lead to surface defects.

Work on the intended area, make sure it is smooth - move on. When you notice very large pits on the surface of the wall, do not touch them with sandpaper, you will putty later.

1. Move on to hard to reach places and corners after you finish polishing the main part of the surface. Use special grinding sponges with beveled corners for this. It is worth buying them in advance at the construction market or in the store.

Tip: do not sand the corners indoors with a skinner, as there is a chance that they will have to be refilled.

You can replace a special corner sponge using the “grandfather’s tool”: take a small sheet of emery, roll it up and gently clean the place, as if with a rag.

1. Remove debris, dust, do wet cleaning. Check for cracks and other visible defects on the surface. Apply the last finishing coat of putty.

1. Start fine-grained final sanding. Here you should use an abrasive with large numbers. The working technology of the process does not differ from the starting grinding. The only thing to do is to move the light as close to the wall surface as possible, and the movement of the hands should not be so sweeping. This stage is the last in the grinding process.

1. Clean again, prime the walls before applying the final finish.

Mechanized surface grinding

As we already know, it is possible to start grinding work on the ceiling and walls only a day after the last layer of putty has been applied. If the temperature indoors or outdoors is appropriate, during this time it should dry completely and become solid ().

Above, we considered the manual method of grinding surfaces, which is most often used at home. However, if you have an electric grinder, the process can be greatly accelerated. In addition, the surface quality will also be greatly improved.

That is why master finishers very often use the mechanized method of surface preparation after puttying. The device is a plate made of metal or wood, on which sandpaper is attached with clamps. Handles are provided for ease of use.

The machine is much more convenient to work with than with a piece of emery. Since the finishing putty is a rather soft material and does not require significant effort when grinding, hands get tired more from moving the device.

Grinding machines are divided into three types:

• tape;
• flat vibration;
• orbital eccentric.

The former have high productivity and it is advisable to use them when working with a thick layer of material. For finishing grinding, if you want to remove a thin layer of putty, they are not suitable.

The latter do not allow grinding work in the corners. Medium - a universal type of device that can be used in various situations.

The process of grinding with its help is not difficult. It is necessary to process the selected area with a little pressure in a circular motion so that it becomes even. If you could not get the desired result the first time, repeat the grinding.

Output

Finishing grinding of walls and ceilings makes it possible to prepare their surface for final finishing with wallpaper, paint and other materials. For this, a manual and mechanized method is used, the choice depends on the strength of the putty layer, the type of defects and the processing area ().

In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

It is almost impossible to perfectly evenly putty the surface of the walls. In any case, traces of a spatula, cavities, tubercles, and uneven transitions of the solution may remain on the surface. To even out these defects, there is a special procedure: sanding or sanding the walls after puttying. To find out how the putty on the walls is polished, you need to familiarize yourself with the list of tools necessary to complete the work.

What might be needed for grinding?

• Abrasive mesh of several types and sandpaper.
• Beam for grinding.
• Sanding sponge.
• Lamp or spotlight.
• Stepladder or scaffold.
• Small spatula.
• Headgear, goggles, respirator.

Advice! To make the sanding process less time-consuming in the future, use a trowel of maximum width when filling surfaces. It will leave fewer stripes behind.

The advantage of the abrasive mesh is in its structure. When working, dust passes through the holes and does not clog on it, as happens with sandpaper. The mesh is changed as it wears out, which is easy to determine by its external condition: it may begin to tear or if the grinding process has become less effective. Most often, the mesh sizes match the size of the sanding bar, so you can simply place the mesh on it and get to work. The skin for starting putty should be with a standard size of 80-100, and for finishing - 220-240. The cost of the mesh is slightly higher than the price of sandpaper.

Sandpaper is constantly clogged with dust during operation and needs to be changed more often than the mesh. In hardware stores, sandpaper is sold in rolls, large pieces and small rollers. If you decide to opt for it, you should immediately decide how to cut sandpaper with a minimum of waste in order to attach it to a bar. You can buy ready-made cut pieces of sandpaper, but such a purchase will cost more. It is recommended to use 60-100 grit sandpaper. Since the sandpaper with a grain size of less than 60 is coarse, and with a grain size of more than 100 it will quickly become clogged with construction debris.

Overalls and protective equipment

Since the process of sanding a putty surface is quite dusty, you need to stock up on protective equipment. Must have:

• respirator to prevent dust from entering the lungs;
• protective glasses;
• headdress;
• it is best to wear clothes that can be easily shaken out later so that excess debris does not subsequently enter the washing machine;
• you also need to wear gloves: you can use rubber or cotton. The good thing about rubber gloves is that they keep dust out, which can make your hands rougher.

How to get the job done right

Even if you make repairs yourself, sanding the walls will not take you much time. This procedure is much simpler than plastering or puttying surfaces, but no less laborious.

Application of grinders

Repair professionals use special grinders. They allow you to significantly speed up the process of grinding the putty and make the grout better than the usual abrasive mesh with a bar. The unit is a metal or wooden plate on which sandpaper is attached with clamps. According to the principle of operation of the machine are:

• orbital eccentric;

• flat vibration;

• tape.

Using the former does not allow you to handle the corners well enough. The use of the latter is universal. And the latter can be rationally exploited with a thick layer of putty.

Buying a grinder will cost a tidy sum, so it is not necessary to purchase it for home repairs.

Advice! Grinding the wall can be started no earlier than at the end of the day, after putting putty on it.

Grinding process

After the putty has completely hardened and dried, you can start sanding. It is very easy to start stripping: install the abrasive mesh on the bar and fix it. Your working tool is completely ready for use. It is best to start sanding the walls from the corner and work in the opposite direction. Most often, when grinding from ceiling to floor, they try to make strips about one meter wide.

Advice! Be sure to use a strong power spotlight or pendant lamp. So you can immediately see all the shortcomings and correct them. The spotlight is installed on the side of the wall. So the light will fall on it at an acute angle, and all defects will give a shadow and will be immediately noticeable.

Rub with smooth movements with a little pressure so as not to scratch the surface of the putty. In particular, this applies to sandpaper, as it is rougher than abrasive skins. Movements should not be chaotic, but consistent: up and down, left and right. In the process, be careful not to sand the same area several times. The main thing is not to overdo it. Finishing putty lends itself well to processing and with strong pressure you can erase it to concrete or drywall. So drops can turn out, and the wall will become uneven again. Therefore, if you see that no defects are observed, proceed to the next fragment of the surface.

Advice! When grinding the starting base, one should not achieve an absolutely smooth surface, since the finishing putty is still to be applied. As for the finish surface, you need to work hard here, especially if painting is supposed to finish. Acrylic paints highlight even the smallest flaws, especially if it is supposed to decorate the walls with light shades.

Separate nuances

There are cases when, when the solution dries, too large pits come across. In this situation, you should not waste time and effort on cleaning the putty around them with an abrasive sandpaper. Visually, it may seem that the wall has become even, but if you apply a level, it turns out that a large depression has appeared on the surface. Therefore, it is best not to touch this place yet, and after you sand the rest of the wall, carefully prime and putty it. For this, it is best to use a rubber spatula. It is quite flexible and will allow you to apply putty flush with the wall.

Upon completion of the work, you should use the level to find out if there are any problem areas on the surface that need to be puttied or sanded. The level should be firmly pressed against the wall.

Advice! Surface priming should be done strictly after grinding, and not before it. If you prime the wall before sanding, it will be possible to correct defects only if it is completely re-puttyed.

Before you start priming the walls, you need to brush off construction dust from them. To do this, take a maklovitsa with a long and soft pile. The primer should dry for 2-3 hours and after that you can paint the surfaces or paste them with wallpaper.

The grinding process causes discomfort for many, even experienced, specialists. After all, this is a monotonous, painstaking, noisy, but mandatory operation. Requirements to finishing work, which have been developed to date, are especially strict regarding the smoothness and evenness of the planes.

High-tech coatings with their thin layers will only emphasize the unevenness of the base. But even if thicker sheet materials are used, the sealing of the joints always ends with grinding. In order for the base to turn out to be perfectly even, the grinder for walls and ceilings must be matched exactly.

Grinding the ceiling and wall surfaces with a special tool can be done by both a professional builder and a home craftsman. Of all the variety of tools, each is the one that best meets the tasks and scope of work.

There are three types of grinders:

1. tape;
2. surface grinding;
3. eccentric.

Experienced craftsmen who specialize in grinding have all the listed grinders in their arsenal of tools. However, for homework, most of them are not needed.

Tape machines

The tool got its name due to the working element - an abrasive tape, the opposite ends of which are glued together, forming a ring. Such a grinder for walls and ceilings allows you to remove a layer of several millimeters. Also, the tool can easily make a rounding, remove old varnish, stains left from moisture contact with iron.

Such a wall grinder works with polymers, wood, metal and even mineral building materials. However, it has one advantage that easily turns into a disadvantage - high speed. Due to this feature, the surface to be treated may become scratched. Only another grinder for walls and ceilings can correct the situation.

Vibrating apparatus

A surface grinder or vibration machine for grinding walls and ceilings is a cross between the first and third types of tools. It is ideal for applications where zero curvature surfaces need to be finished before they are treated with paint or other finishes.

The device has a large working plane, which makes it possible to use it in a room with a large area. The vibration tool is quite popular, especially among home craftsmen.

There are several reasons for this:

• affordable cost;
• accessories are easy to purchase;
• the geometry of the sole opens up the possibility of processing corners of any complexity.

The working body of the device is a plate that performs reciprocating movements. In this case, the amplitude is insignificant. The engine installed in it has a power that ranges from 150-300 watts. Although there are models whose power reaches 600 watts.

A few more benefits:

1. lightness and compactness;
2. relatively low amplitude of the sole stroke, which allows for accurate, but effective grinding.

The sole of vibration machines can be of two options:

1. standard;
2. mini.

The first option is suitable for large rooms. However, if the area is small, it is better to give preference to mini-models.

The ideal sole is one that is made of an alloy of magnesium and aluminum. Cast options are also considered convenient to use.

A separate version of vibration machines are devices equipped with a platform that resembles an iron with its features. They differ in small sizes, but excellent "patency". These models are ideal for working with complex surfaces.

Orbiters

Models that are in demand for processing High Quality. The sanded material is carefully polished, it does not leave scratches and other damage. Despite such delicacy, the performance of the tool is not inferior to vibration models.

Vibratory grinders for walls and ceilings are most often used by car painters and joiners. No one can compete with them in terms of processing volumetric, profile and curvilinear objects. However, due to the peculiarity of the structure, vibration devices cannot cope with corners, small recesses.

The grinder is a tool that allows you to solve a large number of tasks. From a variety of devices, it is easy to choose the right one, knowing the main characteristics of each of them.

Sanding the walls after puttying is a mandatory operation when preparing them for painting, wallpapering or decorative plaster. After all, even after the highest quality finishing putty, there will be traces of a spatula. And on the surface, which at first glance seems perfectly smooth, after the final finishing, all the flaws will be visible.

You need to start sanding only when the putty is completely dry. It usually takes about 24 hours. And this is perhaps the most important rule for high-quality sanding of surfaces.

Let's prepare the tools

Before starting work, you need to prepare all necessary material and fixtures. So, we need such a tool for grinding walls after puttying:

• sandpaper of different grain sizes;
• grinding mesh;
• grinding block;
• sponge of a special form for work in corners;
• small spatula;
• portable lamp;
• ladder or table;
• dust protection equipment: respirator, goggles and headgear.

Beam for grinding

Very often, a grinding block is used for grinding by hand. This tool is a rectangular platform, on the base of which sandpaper or mesh is attached. Sandpaper is a fabric or paper base on which a layer of abrasive grain is applied. This material is used for skinning metal, wood, plastic, drywall, etc. The most important characteristic of sandpaper is graininess.

So, for rough pre-treatment, grinding, I use an abrasive with a grain size of 1 mm and above, and for the finest polishing - 3-5 microns. For sanding after puttying, manually use sandpaper No. 80-360 (the larger the number, the finer the grain). At the beginning of work, we use material with larger grains - experts recommend No. 120-180. And after the second layer of the solution, emery with No. 220-280 is advised.

Sandpaper for sanding walls after puttying is an old proven method. But when processing large areas, it will require a large amount. An excellent alternative to sandpaper is a sanding mesh, which is more wear-resistant. After all, all the dust will pass through the cells on the surface. And thanks to this moment, the material will not be clogged with debris. Attach it to a sanding board.

Grinding walls for painting with a grinder (video)

There are also mechanized devices for stripping after puttying. It's about about the grinder. With this power tool, you can process a large area in a short time and make grinding much better than by hand. Depending on the power supply, grinding machines are electric and pneumatic.

Due to its light weight, the pneumatic device is easy to use, and its price is affordable. Such a grinder is powered by a compressor that directs compressed air and thus makes the mechanism work. Probably the main disadvantage of such a device is that you need a compressor. And this is not a cheap thing. Therefore, it is advisable to use pneumatic machines for large volumes of work. And for repairs, let's say, in your apartment or house, it will turn out very expensive.

Electric models of grinders are mobile. By weight, they are heavier than pneumatic ones, and their cost is also higher. But for home use it is great option. Electric grinders are distinguished as follows:

• tape;
• orbital - eccentric;
• flat vibration.

A belt sander is used to sand a thick layer of putty, so it is more suitable for processing after applying the starting mixture. It is not used for grinding finishes due to the high power of the device. A feature of the belt grinder is that all the working dust is sucked in by the engine cooling fan.

The abrasive belt moves thanks to special rollers, it is centered automatically. This contributes to ease of use. And the presence of additional rollers will help to process poorly accessible surfaces: such as corners, slopes, etc. Orbital-eccentric machines allow for high-quality grinding and polishing of surfaces. They are very popular, make it possible to remove old paint on the surface. The main disadvantage of this type of tool is that it does not allow grinding surfaces in the corners.

The device has a round working platform, which rotates around an axis during operation and orbits. The abrasive material is attached with special Velcro. Such machines allow you to work with grinding wheels with a large diameter - up to 225 mm.

Flat vibratory grinding devices are distinguished by their versatility, they are very widely used. Allows excellent polishing and grinding. The working surface of such a machine is a rectangular sole, the abrasive is fixed with clamps. So, for walls or ceilings, they take emery with the number 120, for metal - 60-80, and for wood - 180-240. So, for grinding hard-to-reach places, a machine with a triangular sole is used.

Sanding the walls

1. Before you start sanding the walls, you need to make sure that the surface is ready for processing, namely: whether the putty layer is completely dry. And only after that you can start sanding the walls. Remember that in order to maintain your health, you should use protective equipment: goggles, a respirator and a hat.
2. To identify areas that need more attention, you can use a portable lamp or spotlight. By placing them close to the wall, you can reveal large defects and nuances on the surface. Such large defects can be eliminated using a small spatula.
3. The next step in our work will be grinding with a bar. We attach sandpaper or mesh to the bar using special clamps. First we use the abrasive with a coarse grain, but it is worth testing the sandpaper on a small area of ​​​​the surface. Bar movements during the process are performed from top to bottom or from left to right, strong pressure on the bar is not necessary.

If suddenly scratches appear after processing, then change to paper with smaller grains. If further finishing involves wallpapering, then minor flaws can be made, and if staining is planned, then defects must be eliminated.

1. When processing corners, we use grinding sponges. Their special shape will help to sand these hard-to-reach places with high quality. If you do not have this tool, then you can use a separate sheet of sandpaper, bending it in half.

Sanding the walls after puttying can be done without dust. This process can be seen on the video: How to sand the walls after puttying with a grinder, watch the video:

Grinding the ceiling

The ceiling after puttying also requires grinding before further finishing, and maybe even more than the walls. After all, lighting fixtures are placed on the ceiling, which will show all the slightest flaws on the surface. Yes, and they paint the ceiling or paste over with wallpaper, usually in bright colors, which will also emphasize the existing defects. It is very difficult to rub the ceiling with sandpaper or mesh. Therefore, the best option is to use a grinder. To do the work, we need a stepladder or a special bar for working from the floor.

For rough processing we use grid No. 60-80, for finishing - No. 100-120. For best results, sand in a circular motion. After finishing the initial grinding, apply finishing putty, and after its complete drying, proceed to the final grinding. We use a fine-grained abrasive. We make movements with the machine small and accurate.

Professional builders always carry out repairs with high quality, neatly and beautifully. How to learn to do repair operations in such an impeccable style? For example, competently perform sanding of the walls after puttying, in order to then apply the finish coat you like. We offer a step-by-step briefing for masters in such a difficult and responsible business as wall polishing.

Sanding the wall is a mandatory procedure after plastering.

Purpose of wall polishing

Surface sanding is the work that follows the plastering process and consists in smoothing out unevenness on the dried layer.

Plastering the surface of the walls pursues the following tasks:

• insulation of the room outside and inside the building with an additional sand-cement or gypsum layer;
• sealing irregularities, cracks, chips on the surface;
• giving an aesthetic appearance;
• preparation for subsequent design processing;
• an obstacle to moisture permeability, the development of fungus, the creation of additional adhesion, sound absorption and other things.

Sanding the walls before applying the finish coat

The plaster mixture is a cement-sand, gypsum, lime, magnesia composition, including various large and small fractions that cannot be dissolved (that is, they cannot turn into a perfectly smooth mass). For this reason, high-quality grinding of the walls after puttying is always required.

Often in professional terminology there are the words "grinding" or "sanding". You need to know that such definitions are synonymous words. Their practical significance is reduced to one function: leveling the plastered surface to perfect smoothness.

Wall sanding is a must.

How to properly sand putty

In order for the work to be possible even for a non-specialist, and the result turned out to be “on top”, it is necessary to decide in advance: how and with what to grind the walls after puttying? The first rule to remember is that the exposure time must be taken into account, i.e. it is necessary to start smoothing the surface no earlier than after the expiration of a day from the moment the plastering is completed. This is necessary so that the layer of applied cement-sand (or other type) material dries thoroughly.

In modern construction and repair business, two completely different methods of sanding are used:

• dry method;
• wet method.

There are advantages and disadvantages to each of them.

Grinding can be done in different ways

The main differences of the presented methods

For those who want to know how to sand the walls after puttying without dust, the wet sanding method is ideal. main feature in that wet grinding of putty requires that a well-dried plastered surface be re-wetted with high quality. Dry the treated wall for a day, then wet it again? At first glance, it is illogical. But, it is the repeated wetting that will increase the adhesive properties of the plaster material, as well as gently remove irregularities. And most importantly - to really reduce the amount of dust.

Wet sanding generates much less dust

After this method of surface treatment, it is sufficient to perform wet cleaning of the floor.

Dry sanding of putty does not involve re-wetting the wall. Here, work is performed precisely on the dried section of the wall or ceiling. The disadvantage of this method is the abundant appearance of dust that floats in the air and settles on everything not only within the room. To clean the room from accumulations of dust and layers of plaster removed from the wall, it will not be enough just to wash the floor. Here you need high-quality ventilation, air irrigation from a spray bottle, dust removal throughout the apartment.

The disadvantage of dry grinding is the strong appearance of dust.

How to sand the walls?

Correctly smoothing the walls or ceiling after puttying means performing all operations in strict order. And the first operation is the choice of a tool for adjusting the outer surface of the walls. The specifics of the work is determined by the type of canvas to be sanded and the quality requirements for the final result.

Depending on the required degree of smoothing (leveling the surface for wallpapering or achieving perfect smoothness for finishing painting the walls), the approach to completing the task will be different.

Before you start sanding the walls, decide on the tool

How to sand the walls after plastering?

Among the essential construction tools at hand, it is worth pointing out the following.

For quality work needs good lighting

Stages of work or how to properly sand the walls after puttying

The surface treated (for example) with a gypsum mixture has dried for more than a day, and now you can start smoothing it out.

You need to start with a detailed analysis of the plastered walls (ceiling). Direct the light source perpendicular to the wall and as close as possible to carefully examine the condition of the coating and any irregularities. Circle all identified defects. with a simple pencil. It is undesirable to use a marker, because. the remnants of the coloring matter absorbed into the wall will be difficult to remove.

Having studied the top layer visually (i.e., having examined all the irregularities, protruding fractions and other defects), it is easy to determine which mesh should be chosen at the beginning of the work for grinding the putty, i.e. sandpaper grain size. As mentioned above, you need to complete the work with a grid with the largest possible grain.

You need to start work with a detailed analysis of the surface

Sanding the wall putty starts from the ceiling and in a clockwise circular motion, the movement is directed downwards. It is convenient to capture the territory of the wall in narrow strips (up to 1 m). You should not apply force when performing, because. as a result, the top layer can be severely damaged.

In assortment building materials there is a starting type of putty and a finishing one. The latter has a smoother appearance coatings and, choosing which sand to sand (edit) the finishing putty, you should give preference to smoother types of sandpaper (No. 200-220). The movements of the master should also be light, careful.

When choosing a skin for puttying walls after the starting coating, there are no special requirements. The main thing is that the final result is good.

When choosing a skin for puttying walls after the starting coating, there are no special requirements

How to sand the ceiling after puttying

Grinding work on the surface of the walls from the ceiling operations are practically no different. The scheme of work is the same: we select the material, inspect the surface for defects, remove defects with improvised or mechanized means.

Complexity repair work with the ceiling is a physical inconvenience for the master. You should not use a ladder or tripod; scaffolding is more convenient in this matter.

The ceiling grinding scheme is no different from wall work

Rush in the process of smoothing the ceiling or walls is not needed! Neither when choosing a consumable tool, nor when doing work. All tasks are done carefully, carefully and slowly.

If you can not choose which sandpaper to sand putty, ask for advice from a specialist repairer or sales assistant. As a last resort, try each tool on a small area, controlling the force and speed of movement over the surface.

Novice craftsmen should not use mechanized tools. It is more reasonable to carry out the first experiments on adjusting the outer wall covering with improvised means (sandpaper, abrasive mesh, etc.)

Grinding of surfaces must be done carefully and slowly

Monitoring the process of sanding walls and ceilings after puttying

This is perhaps the most important rule for an employee. The process of control is concluded in the following points.

1. Do not change the location of the light source to avoid refraction of light rays.
2. Perform operations in small areas, moving from top to bottom.
3. If defects in work are found (for example, an area that has been cleaned too much), this place should be re-plastered, wait until the material dries, and sand again.
4. Use a quality tool and follow the instructions carefully.
5. Check the evenness of the cleaned (polished) surface with a building level or a ruler under the light source: if the shadow does not fall, then the ruler fits absolutely, i.e. turned out to be a perfectly flat plane.

Video: Sanding walls for painting

Video: Sanding walls