How to cut a tree with a hacksaw. How to cut wood with a hacksaw. Sawing with a saw table
If you have come to the conclusion to purchase a gasoline saw, you will need to learn all the features of working with this tool.
With a well-made purchase, working with a gasoline saw will be safe and bring you pure pleasure.
Now in the Russian market, all gasoline saws can be divided into three key classes:
Safety precautions when working with a gasoline saw
How to saw with a petrol saw?
This question appears for everyone who recently bought this tool. And many do not read the instructions, relying on their own theoretical experience and knowledge. And this is one of the critical errors that leads to the failure of the mechanism or to a dangerous injury. Safety precautions must always be followed.
Preparation work
Before working with a gasoline saw, you need to make sure that the chain tension of the device is correct.
Pull a little on the upper links of the saw, and you can see how the shank will come out a couple of millimeters from the groove of the bar. Check that the chain saw links underneath are not sagging. Then pull the chain by hand, and if the tension is very strong, then loosen the chain. It is necessary to check that the inertia brake is in the normal position, i.e. his handle did not touch the hilt. When turned on, gasoline saws with a displaced inertia brake cause the hitch to disembark.
After checking the chain tension, you can start threading the saw. Install the tool on the surface in a horizontal position. Fill with fuel and oil to lubricate the chain and motor mechanism. An excellent option would be a fuel mixture that consists of gasoline and adhesive oil.
For the motor and chain, choose a specialized lubricant prepared specifically for gasoline saws. The elements of this lubricant will ensure the long life of all components of the motor and cutting mechanism.
After completing all the above procedures, start the gasoline saw. Motor in this moment must be cold. Put the switched on saw on the ground and make sure it has good stability.
Release the brake and turn on the ignition. While holding the front handle with your left hand, place your right foot on the back handle. Pull the starter to start the engine. Disengage the inertial brake and press the gas a couple of times to warm up the engine. Next, you need to check whether the oil is well supplied to the chain. After making sure that everything is in order, you can safely proceed to your own work.
How to to nag trees with a petrol saw
Many people ask how to cut trees with a gasoline saw?
Before you get started, you need to get acquainted with a number of basic rules for the use of this device. The very first thing is to hold the gasoline saw with both hands, and firmly wrap your fingers around its handle. Place your thumb under the front handle of the machine. Second, you can not stand directly behind a gasoline saw. The standard cutting position is just to the side of the mechanism.
Always work with a straight back. For a comfortable position and balance, spread your legs wide apart. Put the chain saw on the brake during your own movement. Start sawing with the edge of the tire. Failure to follow these rules could result in serious injury.
To work with a gasoline saw, get yourself specialized clothing, which will consist of a helmet and mask, a light-colored jacket and pants. This shape will save you from saw cuts.
How to cut a felled tree with a petrol saw
How to cut boards with a gasoline saw with your own hands?
This question comes up for newbies. Below we will explain in detail how to properly implement sawing wood.
Cutting a tree is performed at full throttle with that section of the tire that is closest to the body of the mechanism. And for any material you need to apply your own special method of cutting.
If you want to cut branches from a tree, then you need to stand to the left of the trunk and start to nag down below. Do all movements slowly. Cutting is done with the help of the nose of the tire, and specifically the lower and upper chain sheets.
Cut thick and difficult branches to cut in a couple of passes. Start saw with a petrol saw from the end to the base of the tree trunk. It should also be noted that without concrete support the trunk can roll, and at the beginning of the work process, make sure that the tree lies securely and steadily.
After cutting all the branches from the trunk, proceed to the second stage- sawing a tree into a couple of pieces. Be careful, because the trunk due to intense jerks gasoline saws can roll on you.
If the saw blade is stuck in wood, do not pull it out. Turn off the saw motor and tilt the barrel slightly.
If you come to the conclusion saw with a petrol saw big trees, then you definitely can’t manage it alone. You will need at least one assistant to help you in case of an emergency. at the beginning of the cut, conduct a visual inspection of the tree trunk for the presence of dry and rotten branches, because. they may fall on you.
It is also necessary to look at adjacent trees so that they do not interfere with work. Next, stand on the right side of the tree, and hold the tool on the side. This will significantly reduce the load on the arms and spine. The overall process is divided into a notch and a key notch. Start sawing at a 45-degree angle one-fourth the depth of the tree trunk. With such actions, the tree will fall in the direction you need. If a tree falls, try to remove the petrol saw very quickly.
Caring for your petrol saw
Before starting work, carefully inspect all teeth and clean them of accumulated chips, dried oil and dust. If the chain is loose, tighten it first. After finishing work and cleaning the tool, first of all it is necessary to check the condition of the chain oil and lubrication. You also need to pay attention to the air filter. If there are shavings in it, just remove it. Sometimes you need to wash the filter.
If a to nag you will often be a gasoline saw, then you will sometimes need to change some parts, for example, a tire, an anti-vibration system, a chain and a drive sprocket. If you do not change these spare parts, then this will be badly displayed on the general condition of the gasoline saws.
When shopping for a petrol saw, keep in mind that this is a very complex piece of equipment and requires skilled handling and specialized abilities. You can easily learn how to operate a gasoline saw in a short amount of time, but remember the general precautions. Constantly pass inspection of the saw, because with a frivolous approach petrol saw will break and you will most likely be injured.
Device for sawing firewood with a chainsaw-zapivo.net
Although power saws now dominate the vast majority of carpentry shops, sooner or later you will inevitably encounter situations where manual sawing can be made easier or more efficient. Here's how to get the most out of hand saws in critical situations.
When you need a hand saw
Some operations, such as trimming protruding dowels and plugs flush with the surface, forming oblique tenons, or sawing off short finishing profiles, are best done by hand. It is often faster and safer to cut cross-cut into blanks with a regular hacksaw than to try to balance with a long board at saw machine. And many carpenters simply enjoy hand-cutting tenons and other joints.
Although the hacksaw is often the best remedy, cuts usually don't come out as clean as a miter saw or circular saw with a high quality blade. Therefore, when the quality of the cut is important, sawing by hand should be slightly to the side of the intended line, and then remove the allowance by planing or grinding, or sawing to the final size on a machine with a saw blade.
Three main saws
Of all the varieties of hand saws in every workshop, it is useful to have these three.
Japanese saws.
Such saws, various in size and design, including options with a back, work when moving "on themselves". This stretches the steel blade, making it thinner than for push saws. A stretched thin blade is less deformed and less likely to get stuck in the cut. Many consider this method of sawing more controllable. Japanese saws are used both for filing to size and for making joints.
If you often need to saw off protruding plugs and dowels flush, add a Japanese hacksaw with no set teeth to your collection - it leaves almost no scratches on the surrounding surface. (For most saws, the teeth are set apart, that is, slightly bent to both sides alternately so that the width of the cut is greater than the thickness of the blade, and this is necessary so that the blade does not get stuck in the cut).
Classic longitudinal and transverse hacksaws.
Today traditional saws European type have a different number and different shape of teeth, which made it possible to cut faster and with less effort. For most tasks, it is convenient to have a 350 mm hacksaw (saw length is measured along the teeth). A hacksaw 550-650 mm long for transverse cutting of long boards or sawing out draft blanks will also not hurt.
Edge saw.
Designed for more precise cuts and joining, this saw usually has finer teeth than conventional hacksaws. Its distinctive feature is a steel or brass butt on the upper edge of the blade, which gives rigidity and increases the accuracy of sawing.
How to cut with a saw correctly!
When hand sawing, stand in front of the workpiece and make sure that your elbow, wrist, and end saw blade were always in a straight line. The movements of the arm should be straight, starting from the shoulder, reminiscent of the movements of the piston in a steam engine. Hold the saw at a right angle to the workpiece, looking at the reflection on the side of the blade.
The workpiece should not look broken along the cut line. Make long strokes so that all teeth engage in sawing and wear evenly. As you near the end of the cut, support the part you are cutting so that it does not break off, leaving chips at the corner of your workpiece.
Hold the instrument correctly. Take a classic European hacksaw by inserting three fingers into the notch of the handle, and point your index finger along the handle forward (left photo). The long handle of a Japanese saw must be completely covered with the palms of both hands (right photo).
Teeth must be sharp
Hang the saw on a nail or wear a saw to protect the teeth when stored.
Saws with induction hardened teeth stay sharp three times longer than non-hardened ones.
If the blade gets stuck in the wood or the cut always deviates in the same direction, the reason must be sought in the wrong sharpening and setting of the teeth. If you do not yet have the skills and experience for independent divorce and sharpening of teeth, seek the help of professionals.
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It is always necessary to cut from the outside of the cutting, close to the marking line. This applies to both rough cuts with a hacksaw and fine cuts with a fine-toothed saw. Further, it is very important that the sawn workpiece has a stable support in the form of a workbench table top or a regular desktop. For large-sized workpieces, it is better to use goats. In the process of sawing, the part must be held firmly by hand all the time (a large-sized workpiece - also with a knee) - in other words, only the saw should move.
Sawing begins with the first short movements at an angle of 30 to 45 degrees. Only after the saw blade has entered the wood and fixed in it, you can start working with a saw for the entire length of the blade.
At the edge of the cut, saw only in short, sharp strokes. This will avoid breakages from the underside of the workpiece.
Cutting along the wood fibers is always a "critical" situation, especially if the wood has a large swirl. The saw naturally wants to follow the path of least resistance, and if not restrained, it will begin to "walk". That is, in such cases, the saw has to be pressed harder than usual, which, in turn, requires the most stable position of the workpiece.
With large cross cuts, a conventional hacksaw can jam. In such cases, it is better to use a rip saw with very set teeth. Just keep in mind that the cutting strip will be much thicker than the saw blade.
How to protect the saw from damage.
Any saw (especially its teeth) should not come into contact with other tools during storage. From such a neighborhood, it can quickly fail.
If the saw does not have a sheath, then a simple method will help protect its teeth from damage. A cut of the required length is made in a piece of hose, after which the hose is pushed onto the saw blade. A rigid hose lined with a fabric is best suited for this purpose. It adheres tightly to the saw blade even after repeated use.
Tsulaga.
When sawing small workpieces, the tselaga shown in the figures below can be of great help.
To make it, you will need a piece of carpentry board about 20 x 30 cm in size and 2 mm thick, as well as two planed strips, which must be fixed to the plate as shown in the figure. To prevent warping and breaking of the slab, the planks must be placed across the direction of its core layer.
The lower bar of the cleat rests against the edge of the tabletop and thus sets the correct direction for cutting, the shortened upper bar ensures good centering of the saw.
If you have to cut long boards or planks, then a second cleat will not interfere, which will serve as a stop for the other end of the workpiece.
Has your band sawmill been installed and made all the necessary adjustments? So it's time to proceed directly to the sawing process itself. In order to get really high-quality material, it is necessary to correctly install the log and fix it with special clamps.
The quality also depends on the correct calculation of the amount and type of material that you want to get from this log.
Having gained experience in the future, one glance at the log will be enough, and you will already know how much and what kind of material can be obtained from it. Learn to accurately determine where the top is and where the butt of the log is. The butt, as a rule, is larger in diameter than the top. And this largely affects the thickness of the slab.
How to calculate a log
So, you have measured the diameter of the log, and it is measured from the top. We calculate the approximate amount of material according to the diameter and proceed to further actions.
First of all.
We pay attention to all the bends and bulges of the log - a perfectly even trunk is rare. Therefore, we try to turn it so as to get as little waste as possible from it, such as slabs. When the log is laid and fixed, it is worth making sure that it passes freely between the guide rollers.
Set the size on the ruler of the sawmill according to the diameter, and to this size add the greatest height of the bulge of the log. This is that bulge that is higher than the diameter of the top or narrowest part of the log.
Using a regular tape measure, measure the height of the highest part, and from this size you start counting the dimensions required material, taking into account the size of the cut, which is from 2 to 5 mm.
Secondly.
As soon as the width of the cut reaches the required size, and the remaining height of the log has reached the desired size, it is turned over. That is, if you saw a beam, for example, at 150, then both the width of the cut and the height of the rest of the log should correspond to this value, even be larger, taking into account the removal of the slab.
To do this, after turning the log over, start the calculation from the final size to the full use of the log height, but do not forget to take into account the size of the cut, which, as we already know, is from 2 to 5 mm.
For example - you have a log on the flyover that you cut to a size of 260 mm. Let's flip the log and continue.
The end result we want to achieve is a gun carriage with a thickness of 150 mm. Further, in a simple way, considering that 260 mm-150 mm \u003d 110 mm. We get as much as 110 mm thick additional material. And that is exactly what needs to be calculated.
We take this additional size and calculate, in order to obtain a chopping block, which has a size of 50 mm, 110-50=60, do not forget to cut, and in our case it is 2 mm, 60-2=58 mm, then the cleft, equal to 25 mm, 58 -25-2=31 mm, slab 20 mm, 31-20-2=9 mm.
As you can see, from our calculations, it turns out 9 mm slab, 20 mm slab, 25 mm cleft and 50 mm chopping block. And the final size will be 150 mm.
Possible mistakes
As you can see, there is nothing complicated here. Often, inexperienced sawmillers make a mistake in the calculations when they start counting from zero. For example, if the final size of the material is 150 mm, then there is no need to add 2 mm to the cut to it, otherwise it will turn out like this 150 + 2 = 152. There should not be such an error, the cut is calculated only between the material, for example, a 50 mm board and 150 mm carriage, we obtain as described above, 150 + 50 + 2 \u003d 202 mm.
If necessary, to obtain edged material, turn the log 90 degrees and perform the same manipulations that are described above.
So you sawed your first log, look at the quality of the material and the accuracy of the dimensions. Make sure your calculations are correct. The main mistake when calculating, it happens that they forget to take into account the size of the cut. Try to take into account this fact. And don't make those mistakes.
In the future, when you gain experience, the calculation will take place automatically in your head, it will be enough to look at the log.
We are confident that everything will work out for you, we wish you success in your work.
Choose the right cooling solution
Numerous experiments conducted by American researchers led them to the conclusion that it is wrong to use water as a lubricant when operating band saws. There is no need to use lubricant at all until the sawdust begins to “roll” on the saw. In the event that this happens, optimal lubrication should be used: a mixture of 50% diesel fuel and 50% oil for lubricating chainsaw tires.
This mixture should be evenly sprayed on both sides of the bandsaw blade. And in this case Ordinary car glass cleaners work great. There should not be a lot of cooling solution, the operator will easily notice by the characteristic sound when it is time to “cool down”.
Using this lubricant instead of water will also reduce the amount of blooming boards, and extend the life of the belts on the sawmill drive pulleys, since they will no longer “limp” from sawdust and water falling on them.
Relieve tension from the band saw as soon as you stop sawing
In the process of sawing wood, the canvas heats up, and therefore, stretches, increases in length. As the blades cool, they tend to shrink back to their original size. This is where overloads appear, in other words, excess voltage. The canvas also “records in memory” the shape of both sawmill pulleys, which also does not make its life carelessly long. Add to this the inevitable deformation of the belts on the pulleys, which leads to additional vibration of the blade, as well as the "hump" on the belt that buckles over time, which ensures the saw is self-centering on the pulleys.
Band saws - correct wiring
The layout can be considered optimal when a mixture of 65-70% sawdust and 30-35% air is present between the cutting blade and the treated wood. Ejection of 80-85% of sawdust from the cut indicates that your saw is set correctly.
If the saw set is too large, the cut will remain a large number of loose sawdust, and, most likely, characteristic scuffs and scratches will remain on the surface of the board.
With a small divorce of the saw, tightly pressed, hot sawdust remains on the surface of the board. You can't imagine anything worse for a saw. The sawdust should feel warm to the touch, not hot or cold.
A saw that is set too far is likely to run in jerks, and a saw that is not set too far will leave “waves” on the board.
Example. When sawing a log with a diameter of 30 cm at a good feed, everything goes like clockwork. Do not think that everything will be fine with a log with a diameter of 60 cm, because now you need to remove twice as much sawdust from the cut. Correctly! Divorce should be increased (approximately 20%). Therefore, among other recommendations, we allow ourselves the following: before sawing, logs should be sorted by diameter.
Remember that only the upper third of the tooth should be bred, in no case under the “root”. After all, only a sharp corner at the very top of the tooth should participate in the sawing process. Do not forget also that the softer the tree you are sawing, the larger the divorce should be.
And, of course, the sequence of operations is extremely important: the blade is sharpened after wiring, and not vice versa. Sharpening will remove 0.002-0.003 inches, so this should be taken into account when setting.
And finally, never turn off your intuition, formulas will not help here.
The Importance of Checking the Adjustable Device Indicator Regularly
Do not forget about such a device on your adjustable device as an indicator. It doesn't cost anything to reset it. It works in an extremely intense mode, judge for yourself: your saw has approximately 220 teeth, you sharpen the saw 15 times, it turns out that the indicator works 3.5 thousand times during the life of the saw. The indicator wears out over time, so check its installation more often.
Band saws - tooth shape
If the idea crosses your mind that a saw will work great no matter what shape the tooth has, chase that thought away. The shape of the tooth has been developed and verified over the years. Why are you trying to reinvent the wheel?
Practical advice: when you go to buy canvases again, ask for a piece of canvas of about 30 centimeters, make a hole in it and chain it to a grinding machine. Here is the standard by which you can copy the shape of the tooth!
Some problems during work band saws oram and ways to solve them
At the entrance to the wood, the saw “jumped up”, and then it works smoothly, until the end of the log, after which it falls down. This is the so-called "squeezing" or "squeezing", that is, when the saw is squeezed out. Most likely, the reason is that the angle of sharpening the tooth is too large. Try decreasing the angle by 2 degrees. 
At the entrance to the wood, the saw went up. The result is a curved board like a saber. The reason is that the sharpening angle of the tooth is too large with insufficient wiring. Try decreasing the angle of the tooth by 2 degrees, and increasing the set by 0.002-0.003 inches per side.
The saw dives and then goes straight. This behavior is due to several reasons, for example, the cutting blade has become dull. However, most likely, the sharpening angle is small, or maybe the sharpener simply did not fill the stone in time. Look at the canvas carefully, if the shape of the tooth seems perfect to you, then you should increase the sharpening angle by 2 degrees.
The saw "dives", and the resulting board is curved, like a saber. The angle of sharpening is small and at the same time the wiring is insufficient. You should increase the sharpening angle by 2 degrees and increase the set by 0.002-0.003 inches per side.
There are too many sawdust loose to the touch on the board. Divorce is too big. If you look closely, you can see characteristic scratches across the board. Divorce should be reduced.
The sawdust on the board is pressed and hot to the touch. Divorce is not enough. Should be increased.
Wavy cut. If the saw is sharp, it is due to too little set, increase the set by 0.006-0.008 inches per side. Remember, working with an unset saw is the most flagrant violation of technology, leading to a blade break!
The fabric is cracking at the trailing edge. This is because the back stops of the idlers are too far from the trailing edge of the blade. This distance should not exceed 0.3 mm.
Sawdust "rolls" on the saw blade. The divorce is small and there is not enough air left in the cut, excessive friction on the sawdust occurs, which leads to heating and “baking” of wood dust onto the metal. Increase the set 0.005" per side.
The sawdust "rolls" on the inner surface of the tooth, but this does not happen on the surface of the saw. Poor quality of sharpening (too much feed or too much metal removal, and, consequently, poor quality surface on the cavity of the tooth), or too large a sharpening angle of the tooth. Or they continued to cut the canvas after it had already become dull.
After regrinding, the blade is covered with cracks in the cavity of the tooth. This is usually associated with a change in the geometry of the tooth. Compare the tooth geometry with the original. And last but not least, a note. Many problems are created by the fact that the sharpening stone is not refueled often and accurately enough.
If you consider the recommendations mentioned above to be irrelevant, you may not adhere to them. Remember, no matter how perfect the machine you purchase, it remains a device for “running” the saw blade through the wood. 90% of the result depends on the correct maintenance of the saw band sawmill and only 10% of the total machine setup!
Myths and reality of band sawing
Part 4.1
Band saw tooth setting
Any timber merchant who is going to buy a sawmill, of course, hopes to make a profit. But you need to remember that for the stable operation of the sawmill, it is necessary to prepare saws with high quality. And you have to do it almost every day. In previous articles, we talked about setting up the process of preparing band saws, about a new method of sharpening saws, and also started talking about one of the most difficult processes in preparing saws for work - the process of setting teeth. In this post, we will talk more about this process.
Work on band saw machines, or, as they are more commonly called, band sawmills, however, like on any other equipment, consists of two main parts - organizational and technical. Many people neglect the first part, thinking in vain that all organizational issues can be solved directly in the process of work. The result of such neglect is barely breathing or closing production. In this article I will try to describe the problems that should be solved before buying equipment.
We are often asked: on the band sawmill of which manufacturer and in what configuration is it best to cut? It seems to many that our rich experience of dealing with hundreds of owners of sawmills and with almost all of their manufacturers, knowing the problems that they face on a daily basis, will help to give an accurate answer to this “simple” question. In fact, on the list of sawing questions, this, although a very important question, should be at the last place. Those who first bought a sawmill and only then thought about how to properly organize work on it usually organized this very work for a very long time, and some could not set up production at all in order to receive 500-1,000, and not 50-100 rubles from sawn cubic meter of sawlog. At the same time, most often they blame all the failures on the fact that they bought the wrong sawmill.
In order to get a good profit when sawing logs with narrow (27-60 mm wide) band saws, several basic issues must first be resolved. Moreover, without solving at least one of the issues listed below, it is better not to undertake such sawing at all, because otherwise you will get a lot of problems and a complete headache.
1. It is necessary to work independently as a machinist and sharpener at an existing sawmill. It is to work for 1-2 weeks, and not to look at work for 1-2 hours. If you do not do this, you will never be able to understand the intricacies of production. And as a result, machinists and sharpeners will give many reasons why they cannot work better, and you will not be able to correctly assess the correctness of their arguments, which means that you are unlikely to get the maximum profit.
2. Will you be able to spend at least 10-12 hours a day in production for at least the first year in order to control and debug the entire work process? Do not think that this can be entrusted to your companion, much less a hired master. Unfortunately, a companion can rarely be trusted, and any hired craftsmen most often deceive entrepreneurs. I know more than one example when hired craftsmen live very well in poorly functioning industries without constant control of the owners.
3. It is necessary to decide how the saw log will be cut:
a) on order, sawing the required dimensions of sawn timber from the sawlog, that is, it is not optimal, each time losing 10-15% of the possible output volume, saving a little on storage costs;
b) with the optimal cutting of each log, obtaining the maximum yield of sawn timber, but at the same time partially sending the finished product to the warehouse, with a delay in the sale of slow-moving sizes, that is, with a slight freezing in time of working capital, although in the end more profit.
4. Will you yourself for the first time cut saw logs with the optimal yield of lumber and train your assistant to work in this way, so that you can replace yourself later, or do you already have an experienced machinist who will immediately work perfectly, and not just “drive cubes”. Almost all machinists are paid for sawn cubic meters of sawlogs, and not for the edged lumber obtained from this sawlog. Therefore, it is more profitable for them to quickly cut out thick boards, timber and take another log. Large slabs and large parts when cutting unedged boards usually go to waste. And that's the lost profit. Depending on how well the production is organized, the percentage of finished product yield can range from 50 to 75%.
5. Decide how the drivers will receive the saws:
a) you will simply issue them as needed, that is, the machinists will not be interested in the long operation of the saw and will be able to calmly tear them one after another, and you will only listen to their claims that the framer does not know how to saw, and the sharpener does not sharpen the saws correctly, and calculate your losses
b) interest everyone in caring for the saw and sawmill.
Here is an example. Payment to workers is calculated as follows: for cutting 1 m³ of sawlogs, the driver receives 76 rubles, two assistants - 62 rubles each. Only 200 rubles. This includes the cost of a band saw at the rate of cutting 40 cubes of sawlogs with one saw. If the saw cuts more before breaking, the earnings are higher, respectively. More than 100 cubes began to be sawn with a saw. The only clarification: sawing is carried out with bimetallic saws. Deducted for a torn saw: from the driver - 450 rubles, from each assistant - 200 rubles. Only 850 rubles. If the saw is torn on a nail, then a new one is issued free of charge. The sharpener receives an average salary (if he serves several sawmills) from all machinists. Thus, they are all interested in keeping the saws running for as long as possible. And now no one needs to follow them.
Drivers closely monitor the work of the sawmill, since even its slight misalignment (beating of the pulleys, walking the saw on the pulleys, changing correct settings guide rollers, uneven supply of coolant, grinding of cleaning scrapers, etc.) lead, in addition to the formation of a wave on the lumber, to an accelerated rupture of the saw, which is very disadvantageous for them. And any malfunction is easiest to eliminate at the beginning - there will be less marriage, and subsequent possible large repair downtimes are practically excluded. In order to avoid large waste, you can use various systems fines. As practice shows, once or twice fined machinists cut much more competently. But all this works only when there are several crews and, in extreme cases, the driver can be replaced by his assistant. When the driver works alone, it is very difficult to cope with him.
6. Find a good mechanic in advance, that is, a person who will debug the work of the sawmill and will constantly monitor it, keeping it in good condition.
7. Solve the problem of the band saw preparation site, taking into account that any sawmill is only a saw pulling device with a set of service functions. The quality of the lumber obtained during sawing (dimensional accuracy, straightness (without wave) of the surface), and the productivity of the sawmill (the amount of lumber sawn per unit of time, that is, the actual profit) almost completely depend (with an adjusted sawmill) on the correct daily preparation of saws . There are two options:
a) find a highly qualified sharpener in advance who will be able to try (most often unsuccessfully) to prepare saws daily on inexpensive, low-quality and obsolete grinding and adjustable machines. The result of such preparation is quickly torn saws, low-quality lumber (wave on the surface), low productivity;
b) you can buy right away, paying a little more, good sharpening and adjustable machines, on which almost any person can prepare saws with high quality every day and saw them with maximum profit for themselves. How to choose the right sharpening and adjustable machines was described in previous issues of the magazine.
8. Decide how the sawing process will be organized:
a) at minimal cost, but also with minimal profit: sawing is carried out by one driver and one assistant, the saw unit works only 20-25% of the working time, the rest of the time is spent on feeding the log, preparing it for sawing (leveling, tilting, etc.). ) and removal of the resulting finished lumber;
b) with slightly higher costs, but in the end (due to increased productivity) an increase in real profit - the most common option. Sawing is carried out by one machinist and two assistants, the saw unit has been working for 25-35% of the working time;
c) with the highest possible performance at the lowest initial cost. Sawing is carried out by one driver with two assistants, but at the same time an additional 6-meter section is attached to the main rail track. Two logs are stacked in series. Now, when one log is being cut, the assistants perform the necessary operations with another. The saw unit works 35-50% of the working time.
9. Decide which market you want to work in:
a) internal;
b) external.
When working for the domestic market, the productivity of the sawmill due to a possible increase in the feed of the saw unit can be 10-15% higher. The small deviations of the nominal dimensions obtained in this case or a small wave on the surface are of no fundamental importance.
10. Decide what you want to saw at the sawmill:
a) sawing is not very fast, but very high quality (furniture panels, valuable wood species, etc.), sawlogs are mostly large (more than 40 cm) in diameter;
b) sawing into edged lumber, mainly sawlogs with a diameter of up to 40 cm.
When working according to option a), you will need additional hydraulic or electromechanical devices, an electronic ruler, automatic reverse return of the saw unit.
When working on option b), it is worth seriously considering how necessary these systems are. With all due respect to such systems, they improve working conditions at the sawmill, reducing its real productivity by 10-20%, and besides, they constantly break down.
An experienced driver will tune in to electronics much faster right size(the up and down movement of the saw unit must be electromechanical) and will return the saw unit after cutting back. I know many who started working with these electronic components, but then they were simply turned off so as not to interfere. Two assistants perform all operations with a log much faster than hydraulics or electromechanics, and even during real work with logs with a diameter of 25-35 cm they practically do not get tired. It is only necessary that the stops are not screw, but eccentric. Do you agree to such losses in productivity, especially since the installation of these systems, as a rule, doubles the cost of a sawmill?
11. Decide what real sawlog diameters you will be sawing:
a) mostly diameters greater than 40 cm - when sawing such a sawlog, you need a sawmill with pulleys of at least 600 mm, which allows you to work with a band saw up to 60 mm wide and a saw length of more than 6 m;
b) more than 90% will be less than 40 cm in diameter - it is worth considering whether it is necessary to overpay a lot for the opportunity to cut three to five large logs per month. They can be cut in extreme cases in a circle. With pulley diameters of 520-560 mm, the cost of a sawmill is usually up to 30% less. When cutting with a saw with a width of 32-40 mm and a length of 4-4.5 m, while obtaining the same quality of lumber and the productivity of the sawmill, you will not constantly overpay almost one and a half times for the width and length of the band saw with almost the same cut to break each cubic meter of sawlogs.
12. Decide if you need a debarker. In my opinion, it's really not the most expensive, but very useful device, as it allows the band saw to work until it becomes dull for much longer, especially if a dirty log is being cut.
13. Decide if you need a laser pointer. Also very convenient fixture, as it allows assistants to set up the log faster and more accurately, thereby increasing the productivity of the sawmill and reducing waste, which often increases with suboptimal cuts.
Only when you solve all the questions listed above, you can start choosing a specific sawmill with the necessary equipment. Let's go back to the original question. So all the same, which band sawmill is better than others: it breaks less, cuts with high quality and is not very expensive? The paradox is that I cannot answer this question. Almost all manufacturers that exist today have been producing sawmills for 10-15 years or more. Rich experience allowed the designers of these industries to develop and manufacture very good new modifications to sawmills, which are practically not inferior to foreign analogues in terms of parameters, and at a price much lower. Real profit can be made much faster by building your production on the basis of Russian sawmills. But the problem of all our productions is that our manufacturers could always develop and produce a prototype and show a polished model at exhibitions, and receive diplomas for these design works. But, unfortunately, almost no one can constantly produce high-quality products. Making a high-quality weld, manufacturing components for exact observance of all necessary parallelism and perpendicularity only in special conductors, the concept of tolerances when connecting components of 0.01 mm or 0.1 °, high-quality electrical wiring connection and much more, that is, everything that can be called one capacious expression - the culture of production is still a practically impossible requirement for many of our manufacturers. Therefore, when purchasing a sawmill from a Russian, Belarusian, Ukrainian manufacturer, you should always remember that you are buying a constructor that you will assemble and bring to a greater or lesser extent to a normal state for the first 1-3 months. There is nothing terrible here. Just at the initial stage, either a good own experience, or the presence of a competent mechanic. But then these sawmills will work no worse than imported ones, and the money saved can be used in the form of working capital or spent on the purchase of additional equipment.
Much is said and written about the low productivity of sawing sawlogs by band sawmills operating with narrow saws 27-60 mm wide.
For reference, I will give the following figures: with a well-functioning sawmill, high-quality preparation of the saw and organization of the sawing process according to option 8b, the average yield of edged lumber should be 1 m³ per hour with a real exit from the log of 70-75% of the finished product. With the correct organization of production, working in several shifts, it is realistic to receive 400-600 m³ of finished edged lumber per month from only one sawmill.
Now, if you independently calculate all the initial costs, productivity, the actual yield of finished products from one log, you can be sure that sawing up to 3 thousand m³ of sawlogs per month by band sawmills operating with narrow saws 27-60 mm wide will be the most economically feasible. compared to all other sawing methods.
I'm sure all the talk about the inability to work productively and get lumber good quality sawmills of this type are run by those who simply did not manage to properly organize the work of their production.
How to work on a band sawmill
Pro Tips
1. GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT THE MACHINE
The horizontal band saw machine is used for sawing wood of any hardness into boards, beams, rails. Sawing occurs by moving the saw frame with a cutting tool (band saw) along the fixed rail guides of the band sawmill.
The use of a band sawmill allows you to:
produce boards with high quality material surfaces
receive a BOARD with an accuracy of 2 mm. with a length of 6 m;
band sawmill allows you to reduce waste by 2-3 times,
reduce energy costs;
quickly adjust the sawing size,
The band sawmill is capable of sawing short workpieces (from 1.0 meters) and producing products up to 2 millimeters thick.
the band sawmill works in the conditions of UHL 4 (GOST 15150-69). The band sawmill is equipped with an electromechanical type saw unit lift.
2. "Band sawmills" - work and device:
2.1 The main components and parts of the band sawmill:
A bed that moves along rail guides in a horizontal direction;
saw frame;
Raising the saw frame mechanism;
Electric cabinet;
log clamp;
Movable slider of the driven pulley;
Leading pulley;
Driven pulley;
V-belt transmission;
Rail guides of a band sawmill;
Tensioning band saw mechanism;
Band saw mounting socket;
Band saw sheave cover
coolant tank
Saw guide fixed
Saw guide movable
The bed of the band sawmill has a U-shape and soles with rollers for moving the saw frame along the rails and felt brushes that clean the guide from sawdust. The lifting of the saw frame is carried out by two sliders located on the racks of the bed. The movement is carried out by a two-way, synchronously connected chain transmission, driven by an electric motor, through a gearbox.
The frame is made of two channels, which are parallel and interconnected. On one end of the frame, the leading saw pulley is fixedly fixed, on the other end, the driven one, which has the possibility of longitudinal movement. The band saw blade is tensioned by a spring-screw mechanism, the spring dampens the thermal expansion of the saw band. In the manufacture of a band sawmill, the tension for a saw with a width of 35 centimeters is calibrated. The risks of the W tensioner housing and washer are equal to a tension force of 525 kilograms. In the front beam of the band sawmill and on the slider of the driven pulley there are two locks for removing and installing the saw band. On the brackets located in the middle of the frame, two band saw guides (movable and fixed) are installed, which are equipped with support rollers and an adjustment system and a bar. Torque is transmitted from the sawmill engine to the drive pulley - V-belt transmission. The coolant reservoir is fixed on top of the saw-bevel guard. The supply of liquid is regulated by taps located on the tank. The band sawmill control panel is located on the top jumper of the machine.
Guides collapsible from 3 sections, which is convenient for transportation. Below are the base plates into which are screwed anchor bolts. On top of the guides of the band sawmill supports the logs. The log on rail guides is fixed with four screw clamps and a stop that provides 90 degrees.
3. ADJUSTING THE SAW PULLEYS
3.1. The machine provides for adjusting the position of both pulleys relative to each other in the horizontal and vertical planes. It is necessary to ensure that the band saw with a tension of 6-8 kg / mm sq. in cross section by one branch did not leave the rims of the saw pulleys.
3.2. First of all, the pulleys are adjusted in a vertical plane, exposing them at a right angle with respect to the saw frame. To do this, on the slider of the driven pulley, the bolt Ml0 is screwed in from below to its axis, and on the driving pulley, adjustment is carried out by installing spacer washers or plates. This operation is performed by the manufacturer.
3.3 To adjust the position of the saw pulleys of the horizontal plane, two bolts Ml2 are screwed into the ends of the frame from the side of the driving pulley, and one bolt is screwed to the axis of the driven pulley.
It is necessary to adjust the pulleys of the band sawmill in the following sequence:
3.3.1 Turn off the automatic power supply on the control panel.
3.3.2 Open protective covers saw pulleys.
3.3.3 Install the band saw on the pulleys in such a way that it protrudes beyond the edges of the pulleys by the value of the tooth height plus 2-5 mm.
3.3.4 Close the movable connectors (locks).
3.3.5 Tension the band saw by turning the nut of the tension mechanism to the optimum value for this type of band saw (based on 6-8 kg/mm2).
3.3.6. Turning the hand for the driven pulley in the direction of sawing (counterclockwise), you need to look at what position the band saw will take on the pulleys. If the tape runs outward by an equal amount from both pulleys, then without loosening the tension of the saw, release the lock nut Ml6, which secures the axis of the driven pulley to the saw frame (saw frame slider).
3.3.7 Then loosen the M12 lock nut and screw in the Ml2 bolt a small amount, then tighten the M12 lock nut and the M16 lock nut.
3.3.8 Repeat point 3.3.6 and if the tape runs off, repeat the adjustment until the correct result is obtained.
3.3.9 If the band runs inward by an even amount, then it is necessary to loosen the tension of the band saw.
3.3.10. Loosen the Ml6 lock nut, M12 lock nut and unscrew the M12 bolt a small amount, then tighten the M12 and M16 nuts.
3.3.11 If the tape has taken the position according to the instructions, then the adjustment is correct.
3.3.12 If the band saw immediately runs off the drive pulley during rotation, then the adjustment should be started from it.
3.3.13 To do this, depending on the running direction of the belt (outward or inward), loosen the left or right lock nuts Ml6 and adjust in the same sequence as on the driven pulley.
3.3.14 After adjustment, tighten all nuts.
3.3.15 Close the doors of the saw pulley covers.
3.3.16 Turn on the e-mail dispenser. energy on the control panel.
3.3.17 Briefly switch on the drive of the saw pulleys and make sure that the saw blade is in the correct position. The machine is ready to work.
4. REQUIREMENTS FOR SAW BANDS
1. During the operation of the band sawmill, in order to increase the service life of the band saw, it is necessary to properly tension it on the pulleys.
1.1 The amount of tension, depending on its width, is determined by the device "Tensometer".
1.2 Attention! The band saw should not be in operation for more than 2 hours. After this time, it must be removed from the machine and hung out in a free state for at least 24 hours to relieve fatigue stresses.
2 Use the correct lubricant for the band saw blade.
As a cutting fluid (coolant), in most cases, just water is enough, or water with the addition of detergent("Fairy", etc.). However, at low temperatures it is best to use a mixture of 50%-80% diesel or kerosene and 50%-20% motor oil or chainsaw tire oil. Good results when sawing conifers are also given by the use of turpentine.
In the case of using water as a coolant, it is necessary to wipe the pulleys and the belt with oil at the end of the work.
3. Always loosen the band saw tension.
When you are done, take the tension off the saw. When working, the blades heat up and stretch, and then when cooled, they shrink by tenths of a millimeter during each cooling period. Therefore, the belts left on the pulleys under load overload themselves, and the imprint of the two pulleys is formed on them, which causes cracks in the cavities between the teeth.
4. Use the correct tooth setting.
The setting is correct if you have 65-70% sawdust and 30-35% air in the space between the saw blade and the treated wood. If your tooth setting is too wide for the weight or thickness of the wood, there will be too much air in the cut and not enough sawdust. You will have excessive sawdust losses, and as a result, a large roughness of the processed wood. If the spread is not sufficient, you will not get enough air flow to remove sawdust from the kerf. Hot sawdust is a sign of this. This can cause the most devastating damage to the saw: operating intervals will be short, the saw will fail prematurely. The sawdust should be cold to the touch. And, finally, with insufficient divorce and the wrong sharpening angle, the saw will cut a wave on the board. From our point of view, you cannot work with the same set of teeth with logs of different diameters, timber and cant.
You must sort the timber.
For every 20-25 centimeters increase in size, it is necessary to increase the wiring by about 18%, depending on whether the wood is hard or soft, wet or dry. The only way to achieve the desired layout is to carry out control cuts of a certain log. Increase the set by 5-8 hundredths of a millimeter on each side until tooth marks are visible. This means that you are working with a 50/50 mixture of air and sawdust. After that, reduce the setting of the teeth by 8-10 hundredths on each side, and you will achieve the desired result. Note: You should only breed the top eight, not the middle or bottom. You don't want the gap between the teeth to fill completely when sawing. When you work with soft wood, wet or dry, the wood chips expand 4 to 7 times their cellular level. Hard woods, wet or dry, increase in volume only 1/2-3 times. This means that if you are sawing 45 cm pine logs, you will need to set your teeth 20% more than when sawing 45 cm oak logs. Always set teeth before sharpening.
5. Sharpen your saw properly.
There is only one way to sharpen band saws. The stone should travel down the surface of the tooth, around the base of the cavity between the teeth, and up along the back of the tooth in one continuous motion.
You must maintain the profile of the tooth and the interdental cavity.
The space between the teeth (gallet) is not a sawdust bin. The power flow of air, the cooling of steel and the removal of sawdust depend on it.
If you have the correct set of teeth, air is supplied along the log at the same speed as the saw, as a result, the sawdust is sucked into the gallet. The sawdust cools it considerably as it passes around the inside and outside of the next tooth. It is necessary that the space between the teeth is 40% filled, which will provide the necessary cooling and increase the time of the saw.
6. Set the correct sharpening angle.
Thanks to the deep gutters, we can use reduced sharpening angles that transfer less heat to the tip of the tooth. The series uses a 10 Degree hook angle that is able to penetrate most medium hard to medium soft wood surfaces.
The general rule is this: the harder the wood, the smaller the sharpening angle.
Warning: Do not trust the scales and measuring rulers on your grinder!
The pins and guides on it wear out. In the course of work, the profile of the stone changes.
To control the correct sharpening angles, use a protractor. Attention; we recommend changing saw blades every two hours of continuous operation, while allowing them to rest for at least a day.
During the operation of the machine, it becomes necessary to regulate individual components in order to restore their normal operation.
