Scheme of connecting the boiler to the water supply in the apartment. Independent connection of the water heater to the water supply: installation diagram Wiring diagram for connecting the storage water heater

For comfortable living in the house when you want to constantly use hot water, and not depend on the repair schedule of monopolists that can turn off this water for an unknown number of days, many are thinking about purchasing a boiler.

More often than not, the choice falls to the side storage water heater. They come in different firms Ariston, Drazice, Baksi, etc., shapes and designs - flat, cylindrical or elongated.

The installation of cold and hot water pipes may differ for them, however, they are all connected to the 220V network in the same way.

Many mistakenly believe that in order to connect the boiler, it is enough to plug the plug into the outlet and not worry about more. However, they forget that it is in the boiler that, in the event of a violation of the insulation, direct contact of electricity with a person can occur through water.

What you should pay special attention to when connecting the boiler:

• selection of the cross section of the supply cable (depending on the power of the boiler)

• selection of a circuit breaker for powering the electric network of the boiler

• socket selection

Choice of cable and machine

When repairing in new apartments, a separate wiring is usually carried out to the boiler directly from the shield. If you want to connect the boiler to an old common wiring that already has several outlets, be sure to make sure that it can withstand the power of the boiler.

In most cases, with a power of up to 3.5 kW, the wiring must be made with a 3-core copper cable VVGnG-Ls, with a cross section of at least 2.5 mm2.

A three-wire cable is required in order to ensure a permanent connection to ground.

Choose a two-pole boiler connection machine. The rated current of the machine is 16A (enough for a boiler power of up to 3.5 kW).

With a load of up to 2kW, a circuit breaker with a rated current of 10A is suitable.

Power outlet or direct connection

If the boiler is connected from a socket, then the socket must have a degree of protection IP44. These are sockets for rooms with a high level of humidity.

Remember that the socket in the bathroom can only be placed in certain places. And there are areas where it is strictly prohibited. You can read more about this in the article "".

Although many are opposed to connecting electric heaters through a socket, this is the only way to ensure a visible break in the conductors (phase and zero) when turned off, as required by safety regulations.

And for those water heaters that initially come with plugs in the kit, if you cut them off, you can sometimes lose your warranty. So read the instructions.

If it says that this boiler can be connected in two ways

• directly

• and through the standard power cord

then you won't void your warranty.

In addition, if you need to dismantle the device from the wall, if you have a plug, you do not need to call an electrician to disconnect it from the power supply. Pulled the plug, remove, rearrange, do what you want.

Powerful boilers over 3.5 kW should only be connected directly through a circuit breaker, socket connection is not allowed here.

The cable must be wound in such a way that there are no intersections with water pipes and places for future heater fasteners.

RCD installation

In the supply line of the boiler, the installation of an RCD is mandatory. Select it by current one order of magnitude higher than the current of the machine.

Leakage current for RCD - 10mA or 30mA.

Why 10mA is better, and not more, can be understood from this table of the effect of current on the human body:

A significant minus here is that at 10mA the protection can falsely work. Especially if your water heater has been hanging for more than a year and such condensate and moisture often form at the terminal connection points.

How to check if this is a false alarm or is the heater itself faulty? To do this, use a multimeter.

Turn off the power supply or pull out the plug from the outlet and disconnect the standard ground from the titanium case.

Then remove the terminal clamps from the heating element itself, and use probes to measure the resistance between the boiler body and the heating element.

If the heating element is in good condition, the readings on the multimeter screen should tend to infinity, that is, they should be something like this:

In the event of a breakdown and damage to the heater, they will be either zero, but most often they can be several hundred or even kilo-ohm. In the photo below, just such an option is ~ 500kOhm.

Very often, in many recent boiler models, an RCD with a leakage current of 15mA is already built into the cable to connect to the outlet. In this case, it may not be necessary to install an additional leakage current protection device in the shield.

However, do not forget that such a built-in RCD will only protect against leakage if there is damage in the heater itself, but will not protect you in any way if there is a malfunction directly in the outlet or the supply wiring to it.

How to find such and other similar malfunctions and what it can lead to, can be found in the article ""

But what if you are not an expert in electricity and you yourself cannot or do not want to climb into the electrical panel in order to mount all the required protection devices there. But at the same time, you still need to protect yourself.

The easiest option is to buy an RCD outlet.

Plug it into an existing outlet in the bathroom, and then plug the plug from the boiler cord through it.

Will the residual current device on the boiler work if you do not have grounding? Will. These two systems, when working together, are designed to complement each other.

In the event of a current leakage on a boiler without grounding, the protection device will work only when you directly touch the tank or water from it (with the heating elements turned on).

And if there is a grounding conductor, then the RCD will work immediately after the voltage is applied to the titanium, without waiting for your touch. That's the whole difference.

Wiring diagrams

Boiler connection diagram through a socket:

Electrical diagram of the water heater:

Conditional diagram without a socket directly from the shield:

Errors during connection and operation

• installation of a socket directly under the boiler itself

It is absolutely impossible to do this. Sockets should be moved away from the heater and placed above the mixers. Do not forget about the safety valve and possible leaks.

The valve will operate as a last step of protection if the thermostat fails. By the way, the thermostat must be checked first of all, when the light on the panel is not lit, and the heaters are not heating. Look at the position of the button on the element, it can be "knocked out".

• a common mistake when connecting the device directly to the outlet is the desire to turn off the device by pulling out the plug at a time when the water has not yet heated up and the heater is still working

If its power reaches 3.5 kW, then with such a break in the contacts, sparking may occur, with the formation of an arc. And since the bathroom is a room with high humidity the consequences may not be predictable.

Therefore, always, before pulling out the plug, turn off the load with standard control devices on the boiler itself.

• you can not connect an empty boiler without water to the network

The heater, which is installed inside, requires water cooling. Without it, it will simply burn out and fail. Therefore, before each use, check the presence of water in the boiler.

Plus, the magnesium anode, which also protects against rust, only works when the tank is full.

• connection of the water heater only through the RCD, or only through the machine

These two protection devices must duplicate each other. RCD protects against leakage current, and a simple machine from overload and short circuits.

If the budget allows, then instead of these two protective elements, you can install one differential machine, it will replace both devices.

Since the centralized hot water supply of residential buildings is becoming irrelevant, autonomous storage water heaters are replacing them. An important plus of these household appliances is simple installation that does not require special permits. We offer to help you realize this advantage and consider how to properly install and connect the boiler to the water supply of a private house or apartment.

Materials and accessories

As a rule, storage and instantaneous water heaters are equipped with fasteners - brackets or brackets designed to hang the unit on the wall. Other accessories and pipe fittings have to buy it yourself.

To install and properly connect an electric boiler according to the standard scheme, prepare a set of materials:

• 3 ball valves DN15;
• 2 American women of identical diameter;
• tee DN15;
• designed for boilers check valve;
• metal-plastic pipes (cross-linked polyethylene, corrugated stainless steel or polypropylene are also suitable) with connecting fittings;
• three-core copper cable VVG with a conductor cross section of 2.5 mm²;
• automatic two-pole switch, rated for a current of 20 amperes.

Note. Some manufacturers complete their products with safety valves with rubber gaskets.

This is what the pressure relief valve looks like from the tank

If the pipe connections to the storage water heater are planned to be wall-mounted, it is better to take a pipe made of metal-plastic, stainless steel or cross-linked polyethylene. PPR wiring is not recommended to be hidden. Do not forget about the brackets for attaching pipes to the walls - the pipes should not load the boiler pipes with their own weight.

The length of the cable for connecting to the mains depends on the remoteness of the main control panel, from where a separate power line will have to be routed. The second connection option is to the nearest power distribution box. For an open way, prepare plastic cable channels or a corrugated sleeve.

With hidden laying, pipes immediately go into the wall

Boiler connection option indirect heating depends on the type of boiler and heating scheme. But you will definitely need pipes with fittings and a circulation pump low power, developing a pressure of 4 m of water column (0.4 bar).

Water heater installation

Before connecting the water heater to the mains and water supply, the unit must be securely fixed to the wall in a convenient place. Here are some recommendations for placing the boiler:

Reference. AT apartment buildings- in new buildings, a separate room is often provided for the placement of water-heating equipment.

Having chosen the place and height of the water heater suspension, mark the fixing points on the wall. The task is facilitated by the design of a regular bracket in the form of a strip with slots for hooks, welded to the boiler body. Drill holes 12 cm deep, hammer plastic stoppers and screw in hooks with a diameter of 8 mm. Second mounting option anchor boltsØ10 mm. Together with an assistant, lift the heavy unit and hang it from the bracket.

Products of some brands are equipped with special paper templates that facilitate the initial marking of attachment points. There are boilers with a separate mounting plate fixed to the wall with a few dowels. The body is screwed to it with conventional bolts.

How to connect the machine to the water supply

The design of an electric or gas boiler provides for the withdrawal of water for the needs of domestic hot water from the upper zone of the tank, where it reaches its maximum temperature. Make-up from a cold water supply is carried out to the lower zone. This causes the following problems with emptying the tank:

• it is impossible to drain from the “hot” side - the end of the tube is too high, so literally 2 liters will flow out of the container;
• if you connect the pipe from the “cold” side directly, then you will have to unscrew the American to empty it;
• it is inconvenient and long to drain water through a regular valve - the section of the fitting is too small.

The presented boiler connection scheme solves the listed problems and allows you to empty the tank at any time, spending literally 15 minutes. Each element of the strapping clearly performs its function:

1. Ball valves on the main highways serve to cut off the water heater from the water supply network and hot water supply.
2. A tee with a third ball valve on the "cold" side is designed to completely empty the tank.
3. The safety (it is also a non-return) valve is engaged in the discharge of excess water, whose volume increases when heated. The second function is to prevent the tank from emptying back into the supply pipeline.
4. Americans allow you to disconnect the device without disassembling the system.

To properly assemble the piping of the electric boiler, it is enough to connect the pipes according to the diagram and attach them to the wall with clamps. Last of all, American women are screwed on, a flexible hose is put on the “nose” of the safety valve, which is directed to the sewer. The process of installing a storage water heater is clearly demonstrated in the video:

After assembly, check the tightness of the joints by opening the cold water supply. Filling the tank is carried out with the “hot” tap of the mixer open in order to release air. After making sure that the connections are secure, proceed to the wiring.

Connection to the house electrical network

The power of the vast majority of water heaters does not exceed 3.5 kW. If the consumption of your household appliance is within the specified limits, feel free to connect the boiler through, equipped with a ground contact (mandatory!). The work is simple: swipe from junction box three-core cable using a corrugated or plastic box, and place a socket next to the heater.

Exposed wiring and outlet knobs are not to the liking of all homeowners. To make the connection of electricity to the water heater more soundly, follow our instructions:

Plug the boiler filled with water into the network and check the operation. Since on the budget versions of the devices, the heating temperature is regulated directly on the heating element, do not rush to put the lid on. Wait until the water reaches a comfortable temperature (look at the pointer) and turn the adjustment lever on the end of the heating element to turn off the heating element.

We connect an indirect heating boiler

The unit is a tank with a built-in coil that heats the bulk of the water. Accordingly, the heat exchanger is connected to the boiler, and the tank is connected to the hot water supply system. To drain excess water, expanding when heated, the same safety valve is used.

The easiest way is to connect an indirect heating boiler to a single-circuit boiler equipped with special pipes. Inside the heat generator there is a three-way switching valve that distributes the flow of coolant for heating or loading the DHW boiler - as the electronic control unit orders. AT this case the heater coil is simply connected to the appropriate fittings.

Note. It's about about manned by your own circulation pump. In floor versions - solid fuel and gas - pumps and three-way valves, as a rule, are not provided.

The operation of the pump unit is controlled by a thermostat built into the boiler (it has a special socket). When the water intake begins, the container cools down and the thermoelement starts the pump, with sufficient heating it stops.

An important point. Connection to a double-circuit boiler is carried out in a similar way. It is not allowed to "hang" the boiler on the second circuit of the heat generator, acting from the flow heat exchanger. How to properly strap in such cases, look at the video from the expert:

Conclusion

You can absolutely not read the instructions, do not use piping fittings and supply water to the electric heater directly. The unit will function successfully until the first malfunction or repair of the plumbing, when you have to drain the water from the tank. But there is one detail that must be installed - a safety check valve. Without it, expanding water is capable of tearing apart any weak connection or the tank itself.

Structural engineer with over 8 years experience in construction.
Graduated from East Ukrainian National University them. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.

If you decide to learn how to connect a storage water heater with your own hands, you need to study all the nuances of the installation in advance, since any electrical appliance requires safety precautions.

• 1 Standard plumbing scheme in the apartment
  • 1.1 Features of creating a circuit
• 2 Installation steps
  • 2.1 General installation tips

Standard plumbing scheme in the apartment

To begin with, one must understand important nuance that the connection of any storage water heater to the water supply implies its embedding in the water supply system. The goal of the process is big - to create a source of hot water in the system with your own hands. It is desirable, of course, that the installation and repair in the apartment coincide with each other, however, modern technologies allow you to install the boiler as accurately as possible. In this case, an electric water heater will have to provide hot water to all points of analysis of the apartment.

Speaking directly about the standard plumbing scheme, it is necessary to single out the main nodes - the toilet, to which only cold water is installed, followed by a washbasin, where a riser with hot and cold water is connected, then a bathroom or shower, and then a kitchen washbasin, which often has a separate supply Actually, this standard scheme connecting a storage water heater, it is necessary to build a boiler into it, which allows you to heat the contents of the pipes in the apartment. There are, of course, various options branching, which you can see on the video on the Internet.

If we consider the plumbing scheme with a built-in heater, then it must be installed in such a way that it provides hot water to all points of analysis, except for the toilet bowl.

Features of creating a diagram

The main components of the circuit, as you can see in any video, are special taps and a check valve. A prerequisite for the well-coordinated operation of the circuit, which does not require quick repairs, is the presence of a valve. It prevents hot water from draining through the pipe with cold water. Here you should understand the main principle of the operation of the water heater, the installation of which can be done by hand. Cold water exerts pressure on the hot water tank, and by design, hot water is disassembled from above, and cold water from below.

In order to cut off the storage device from the water supply, two taps work in pairs. Accordingly, they are switched on only during the operation of the device, and their installation is necessary. In addition, such cranes are important when the unit is to be repaired and needs to be removed.

Another important point, without which it is impossible to connect a storage water heater, is the presence of a third tap, which turns off only hot water supply. Its installation can also be done by hand. Required condition– overlapping it during drive operation. Otherwise, hot water will be able to go into the general hot water supply system.

Installation steps

The main steps that should be carried out when installing a hot water storage tank with your own hands:

• Fixing the device to bearing wall. In principle, if a good repair is made in the apartment, you can fix it on a simple wall.
• The cold water supply system should then be connected to the unit's nozzle, as can be seen from the video. The connection is made by means of flexible hoses or pipes.
• Connecting to a power source. The most important thing here is the moment of safety, especially if you carry out the procedure yourself. It is also worth noting that the operation of the equipment will require a network with a current of at least 6-8 kW. It is desirable for various reasons to carry out the installation of the product above the head.

If the apartment is being renovated, you can entrust the installation of the unit to professionals. Otherwise, if you are going to do this procedure yourself, you can use the tips below:

• In the event that repairs in the apartment were carried out for a long time, you should invite a specialist before installation who will diagnose the wiring in the apartment.
• The wall serving as the installation site of the boiler must bear a load twice the mass of the device.
• Access to the device must be free in case it needs to be repaired.
• Equally important is a sufficient analysis of the pipeline in the dwelling. More precisely, the quality of pipes and risers, as well as the availability of outlets for directly connecting the unit, installing taps and other necessary manipulations. In the event that the condition of the risers leaves much to be desired, it is necessary to pre-replace them, carry out repairs, otherwise the adequate operation of the water heater may be in question.

Installing a storage water heater in your own apartment is possible with your own hands. The most important thing here is the observance of safety precautions, as well as the implementation of all installation rules.

A water heater has long ceased to be considered a luxury item. Currently, such equipment is installed in almost every home. The most popular are flow and storage electric water heaters. Your attention is invited to an overview of the main advantages and disadvantages of the mentioned equipment, as well as instructions for its independent installation and proper use.

Advantages

1. Compact dimensions. The flow heater does not take up much space. At the same time, models of heaters are available for sale, equipped with a mixer and a shower head, which allows you to save additional money.
2. Fast heating. Unlike storage-type models, instantaneous heaters begin to produce warm water already 30-60 seconds after starting.
3. No restrictions on the volume of heated water. The user can get exactly the amount of hot water that he needs, unlike storage tanks, the volume of which is limited.
4. Relatively low price.

disadvantages

Instantaneous water heaters are best suited for houses and apartments equipped with electric stoves. In this case, the meter and wiring will already comply with regulatory requirements.

Advantages and disadvantages of storage heaters

Advantages

1. No need to modify the electrical network. The storage heater can be plugged into an ordinary electrical outlet.
2. Profitability. On average, storage water heaters consume about the same amount of electricity per hour of operation as an ordinary vacuum cleaner. At the same time, models with the ability to control the heating power are available for sale. The time required to prepare the required volume of water at the desired temperature directly depends on the installed power.
3. The possibility of arranging wiring for a bathroom and kitchen.

disadvantages

The only significant drawback of storage water heaters is their impressive dimensions. However, today manufacturing companies offer their consumers big choice heater models that save space. For example, if you wish, you can purchase a flat unit.

Installation of instantaneous water heater

Installation process instantaneous water heater does not require the performer to have any serious skills. There are two options for mounting such a unit: for temporary use and for permanent operation.

Temporary connection

This option is usually used when it is necessary to obtain heated water in the absence of the possibility of connecting to a central water supply. After the appearance of such an opportunity, the water heater is easily turned off or even dismantled until the next use - it does not take much time.

The most convenient for temporary use are models that were originally equipped with a mixer and a shower head.

First step. Fix the heater in a convenient place with dowels and screws.

Second step. Remove the watering can from the domestic shower hose and connect the hose to the water heater inlet.

Third step. Connect the complete watering can to the outlet of the water heater.

As a result, the cold liquid will enter the heater from the mixer, heat up when passing through it, and leave the complete watering can already warm.

Permanent connection

This option is used in situations where the heater is planned to be operated regularly. In this case, the unit is connected to the water supply system.

The connection is carried out according to the scheme already considered, however, the supply and output of the liquid are fixed permanently. For such a connection, special tees are used, as well as stopcocks.

As a result, heated water will come out of the mixer.

After installing the heater, make sure that all connections are tight and only then accept the device for permanent use.

It is important to understand not only the order of connecting the instantaneous water heater, but also the features of its use.

The main rule: the instantaneous water heater can only be turned on after the heater coil is completely filled with water.

If the heater coil is not covered with liquid in sufficient volume, it will break and it will become impossible to use the device.

Regardless of the option you choose to connect the flow heater, the use of such a device is carried out in the following order:

Turning off the appliance is carried out in a similar order - you turn off the heater, wait until cold liquid begins to flow from the shower head, and only then turn off the water supply.

Installation of storage heater

In the case of storage heaters, temporary installation is not provided. Of course, you can connect an ordinary hose with a watering can to the outlet of warm water, but it will be categorically inconvenient to use such a unit.

First step. Choose a suitable place to install the water heater and check the wall.

Flow models are quite light in weight. Cumulative ones will exert a much more significant load on the wall. Therefore, when choosing a place to install a heater, you need to pay attention not only to the degree of convenience of piping, but also to the strength of the surface.

As a rule, heaters up to 200 l are fixed to the wall. Tanks of a larger volume suggest exclusively floor installation. If the heater has a volume of more than 50 liters, it is recommended to fix it exclusively to a load-bearing wall.

Second step. Prepare everything necessary fixtures to install a water heater.

You will need:

• puncher (if the wall is concrete) or impact electric drill (if the wall is brick);
• marker;
• measuring tape;
• drill for tiles (if the surface at the place of the future attachment of the heater is tiled);
• protective valve;
• FUM tape;
• dowels and fastening hooks;
• building level.

If the required wiring is available with pre-wired tees and shutoff valves installation of the storage heater is carried out in an extremely simple sequence.

First step. Step back about 150-200 mm from the ceiling surface and leave marks on the wall for future holes. Thanks to this gap, you can conveniently lift the water heater for hanging and removing the tank.

Second step. Armed with a drill (perforator) with a suitable drill, make holes in the wall with a depth corresponding to the length of the mounting hooks.

Third step. Drive the dowels into the prepared holes, and then screw the screws into them. Be sure to leave a gap to accommodate the water heater mounting plate.

Fourth step. Install the tank on the mounts.

Fifth step. Install a safety valve on the cold fluid inlet. With its help, excessive pressure will be removed from the system. Connect a tube to drain excess fluid to the sewer pipe. Also, this tube can be gently inserted into the toilet bowl.

Sixth step. Connect the cold water pipe to the water heater inlet. The entrance is marked blue. Connect only through the safety valve. To the outlet (marked in red), connect the ready-made hot liquid outlet pipe.

Again, pay attention to the importance of the safety valve. Without such a device, the tank can be seriously damaged or even burst due to excessive pressure during the preparation of hot water.

If there is a protective valve, the excess pressure will simply be released and the device will continue to work in normal conditions. Also, with the help of a safety valve, you can quickly and conveniently drain water from the heater when it is necessary to perform maintenance and repair work on the equipment.

Thus, the installation of a water heater is not particularly difficult. If you wish, you can independently install and connect a storage model or a flow heater. It is enough just to follow the provisions of the presented guide and everything will definitely work out.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself water heater installation

Water heaters are an essential household appliance that helps to make life much easier. We propose to consider how the water heater is correctly connected to the mains, to the water supply, in the country, as well as the installation of a horizontal boiler in the country and in the apartment and the general installation scheme.

Detailed connection and construction description

In this way, you can connect a storage water heater from Atmor (Atmor), Elenberg, Eltron, Etalon, Ferroli, Gorenje, Polaris, Stiebel, Thermex, Vega, Termeks, Ariston (Ariston), and others. It is considered the most effective option for connecting a simple vertical boiler, but first you need to understand the design of the device.

A standard boiler consists of the following parts:

• element that heats water - heating element;
• a tank that keeps the water temperature at the right level;
• thermostat;
• water drainage and supply systems.

The most important thing when choosing a boiler is the way it is attached to the wall (vertical or horizontal), and the volume of the tank. Most often in modern apartments vertical devices are used: they take up much less space than horizontal water heaters and are connected to the water supply system much easier and faster.

Step-by-step instruction:

A fuse or safety valve is a special device that serves to protect the tank from rupture at very high temperature or pressure. This can happen if the liquid pressure in the tank exceeds the nominal value (the standard value is 0.6 MPa). The pressure valve hole must be open without fail, because often home specialists simply forget to ensure that excess hot water is drained into the sewer in time, which puts themselves and their families in serious danger.

It must be said that the standard valve in a set with a water heater most often simply does not cope with its task, and we recommend that you immediately buy a protective device separately, having already foreseen the needs and capabilities of the boiler.

1. The valve consists of a whole system of parts, including a plumbing tee, the valve itself, an American coupling, a reverse-acting valve (which prevents hot and cold water from mixing, which means it saves energy and reduces pressure on the internal tank of the boiler);
2. Now, with the help of pipes and compression hoses, we divert water into the sewer. If necessary, simple garden hoses can be used, although they are not designed for use in hot water conditions;
3. We seal the connection with a special sealant, leave it to dry for 4-8 hours. We turn off the water long before the start of the process, even a slightly damp pipe will not be airtight and will quickly “disperse”;
4. Next, we continue to connect the boiler to the water supply system.
5. We advise you to give preference to pipes made of polypropylene materials, they have a much longer service life and are easier to install than metal pipes. We connect them by welding polypropylene, leave to dry a little. Some masters carry out this operation, having only metal-plastic pipes, but they are much more difficult to install and less reliable;
6. After using ball valve we bring cold water to our boiler, connect, check and, if necessary, fix with a sealant the junction of the water supply hose and the intake hole;
7. Through the same ball valve we divert and hot water, this provides for the connection of a storage water heater, and a flow one;
8. It is necessary to make the system in such a way that when the taps are closed, water does not flow, but if the riser valve is closed, liquid can be used;
9. Now, depending on whether the connection of an electric water heater or gas water heater we produce, you need to connect the device to the power system, and check its operation. When using the first method, all the requirements of the PUE are taken into account: waterproof sockets (especially in the bathroom), grounding of a household appliance, most likely, you will also need a separate RCD for a two-phase boiler, etc.;
10. Check the condition of the cable, it must be moisture resistant, durable and elastic.

Installing an outdoor boiler

Installation of a floor or horizontal boiler does not take much time, but it is a very voluminous job. They are often more than 50 kW, and they weigh about a hundred kilograms, so they are difficult to transport or simply move on their own. The system is connected to hot and cold water in the same way as a vertical water heater, only with the difference that the drain hole is on top.

Video: water heater installation

The grounding system is also more serious; a separate outlet is provided for powerful boilers. It can be easily done with your own hands, just branch off the wire from the iron part of the device, and connect it to an independent output to the ground.

This device is mainly used in production, because. it has a fairly large volume, and the price is high - from 80,000 rubles (the cost was taken into account by the regions of Yekaterinburg and Moscow).

As you can see, connecting an instantaneous water heater is a simple task that requires maximum concentration. If the coupling is connected incorrectly or loosely tightened, then failure is inevitable, because of this, the service life can also be significantly reduced.

No special documents are needed if you buy a water heater, not a gas water heater.