How to screw screws into wood. How to screw a self-tapping screw into various materials: important nuances of a seemingly trifling matter. How to unscrew a screw with a broken head
This article is intended for those people who have very little knowledge in the use of construction tools.
We think a fairly large number of people begin to get acquainted with construction tools purchase, and only then they begin to figure out how to work with this tool. In addition, there will certainly be teenagers or women among the readers of this article who generally have no idea what a screwdriver is and what you can do with it. It is for them that we decided to write this article.
To start in in general terms Let's talk about what a screwdriver is. Firstly, they can be divided into two large classes: battery-powered and mains-operated. The effectiveness of these tools depends directly on the brand of the tool, but the battery ones do not depend on the presence of an outlet and the length of the wire.
For home master it is best to choose a cordless tool - it is more convenient and practical. Let's start with him.
Typically, cordless screwdrivers are sold in cases that, in addition to the tool itself, include a pair of batteries and a charger. When buying, it is best to immediately check the completeness of the tool and its performance in the store. It must be understood that the screwdriver is not charged from the factory, so when you bring it home, you must first charge the batteries using a charger.
After that, we insert one of the batteries into the tool and it is almost ready to work. To work, we still need to insert one more element into the cartridge - the necessary bit or drill. You can buy a set of bits and drills in the store, or you can purchase them separately, similarly for drills.
Modern screwdrivers, in addition to maybe low-power models, have the function of drilling and drilling with impact, so with their help you can also drill holes in metal and wood, as well as concrete and brick.
Before using a screwdriver, it is necessary to check the integrity of the tool. There should be no mechanical damage such as dents and cracks on the case and batteries. The instrument must not be used with such damage.
Drilling metal and wood with a screwdriver
In order to make a hole in metal or wood, it is necessary to put an appropriate drill in the chuck. For wood, if necessary, a drill for metal is also suitable. After that, you need to set the desired mode - drilling. This is done using the rotary part of the tool, located immediately behind the screwdriver chuck. On the symbols located on the body of the screwdriver, find the image of the drill and align the turning part (arrow) with its image. In this case, the screwdriver will switch to the electric drill mode. This mode must be used with caution. The fact is that the tool turns off the so-called ratchet (protection of the engine from excessive force on the shaft). If the drill jams, the motor may burn out.
Next, we attach the drill to the drilling point and press the start button. During drilling, it is important to hold the screwdriver perpendicular to the drilling axis. Due to misalignment of the drill, especially in hard material, the drill may break off. We drill harder materials at low speeds, and soft materials, such as wood, at high speeds. By the way, if the screwdriver has a speed switch button (usually two speeds), then it is best to drill at the second speed. In the process of drilling, the pressing force is controlled independently. Unfortunately, it is difficult to explain this in words, so you can determine this parameter in the course of practice.
Drilling concrete and stone with a screwdriver
To drill holes in concrete and stone, we need a special drill with a pobedit tip. Usually everyone uses a drill with a diameter of 6 mm, which fits most plastic dowels for self-tapping screws. You should not take a thicker drill - it's just that the power of the screwdriver is not intended for this - a puncher is needed here.
Before drilling, we transfer the screwdriver to the drilling mode with a fight, similarly to that described above. To do this, we combine the guide arrow with the image of a drill from segments or a drill and a hammer (depending on the brand of the tool). As in the previous case, we hold the tool perpendicular to the drilling axis. It is not necessary to press the tool very hard during the drilling process, although it should be sufficient to gradually deepen the drill. We periodically loosen the pressure and even remove the drill from the hole to remove drilling products (dust).
Tightening screws, self-tapping screws and bolts with a screwdriver
And finally, we come to the main purpose of screwdrivers - screwdriving (from which its name follows). Each screwdriver (on the turning part) has a number of numbers around the circumference: 1, 2, 4, 6, 8, etc. They denote the tightening moment in newtons. The thicker the screw or self-tapping screw and the harder the material in which it is wrapped, this figure should be larger. To screw, for example, roofing self-tapping screws into metal, a force of 12–14 N is usually sufficient.
For screwing standard self-tapping screws into wood, 8 N is enough. Again, this force is selected individually for each type of screw and base material. It is better to start tightening a new type of self-tapping screws to set the value of the force to a smaller value, then you can add force and tighten it. But if you immediately put a lot of effort, then you can twist the screw, which will lead to breaking off the head of the screw, or twisting (the screw or screw will push through the material to be fixed).
Depending on the head of the self-tapping screw or screw, you will need a variety of bits. For standard PZ2 bit screws, for small PZ1 bit screws, but for roofing screws, an 8 mm head. Also, with the help of a screwdriver it is very convenient to assemble cabinet furniture. If you have a bit for confirmation (Euroscrew), then the furniture assembly speed will increase several times. In addition, it will do without mazols on the fingers from twisting by hand a large number confirmations.
The mode of wrapping self-tapping screws and screws has one very good property. If the base material is too hard and the screw jams during tightening, the so-called ratchet will work. A special mechanism will stop the transmission of rotation from the engine to the bit, which will prevent damage to it. All this is accompanied by a characteristic crack. You shouldn't be afraid of him.
By the way, in the twisting mode, you can easily drill a tree without changing the mode, the drill passes quite easily. If there is not enough force on the tool to drive the self-tapping screw into hard material, experienced craftsmen put the screwdriver into drilling mode and tighten the self-tapping screw. But we do not recommend doing this, since you can simply burn out the electric motor without the necessary experience.
During tightening, it is necessary to press the bit against the head of the screw with sufficient force so that the bit does not slip. If edge slippage occurs, the bits stick together and it fails.
At the end of the article, we note that it is best to store an electric screwdriver in a dry, heated room. Humidity will cause the contacts of the tool to oxidize and it may fail. Screwdriver batteries must be stored in a charged state. So they will last much longer. If the batteries no longer hold a charge, then in the service centers you can always order new ones.
We hope our instructions have helped you in your work and have been useful.
The modern market for building fasteners offers the buyer a wide selection of self-tapping screws - so necessary for any repair of products. However, the reviews about these "little helpers" are not always flattering.
The thing is that home craftsmen often do not know how to properly screw in a screw and how to choose it correctly in general.
Types of self-tapping screws
There are two main types of self-tapping screws used for self-repair - for wood and universal. Their main difference is in the thread pitch - "screws" for wood are characterized by a large pitch (more rare application of threads).
There is a misconception that universal parts are just as good for wood, plywood and chipboard as specialized parts. No, of course, screwing them into these materials will not be difficult, but how well they will stay there is a big question. The fact is that the “raw material” into which the self-tapping screw is “immersed” must lie securely in the grooves of the thread, and the structure of the wood will not allow it to be qualitatively located in the narrow “grooves” of the universal self-tapping screw.
Self-tapping tools
Fasteners may have caps of different sizes and recesses in them of various shapes and sizes. Therefore, before screwing in a self-tapping screw, make sure that you have a screwdriver or a screwdriver with a suitable nozzle in your arsenal. In general, it is better to have nozzles for the corresponding tools, as they say, to the maximum. Plus, they should be replaced regularly, since wear of devices during operation cannot be avoided.
Note! The best nozzles are those made of tool steel with hardening additives. Don't opt for the first set that comes across, otherwise after a couple of days of intensive work you will have to go for a new one.
If your plans include wrapping one or two self-tapping screws into a non-solid surface, then you can work with a screwdriver. If more - you can not do without a screwdriver. Tightening fasteners with a screwdriver is not as simple an operation as it might seem at first glance, and requires some skill. A screwdriver will do everything quickly and efficiently.
General technology for screwing screws
Using an awl, make a small indentation in the place reserved for the self-tapping screw. Install the product in position. With careful but sure movements, turn the part until it is well deepened and fixed in the material. After that, the force can be increased. Toward the end of the “process”, the speed must be reduced again - so as not to damage the self-tapping screw.
How to screw self-tapping screws into different materials?
Many men, not knowing how to screw a screw into concrete, spoil a sufficient number of purchased parts. In fact, everything is quite simple: self-tapping screws are “integrated” into concrete with the help of dowels - durable plastic “tubes”. First, a hole is made in the material, a dowel is installed there, which “accepts” the fastener.
Worth knowing! Craftsmen advise lubricating the dowels with glue before installation. This, in their opinion, strengthens the connections.
Drilling holes in concrete should be done exclusively with a hammer drill - even an impact drill may not withstand, let alone a conventional one. Self-tapping screws are suitable for both wood and universal.
Brick, ceramic tile, coupler
Self-tapping screws are screwed into these environments in the same way as into concrete. The only thing is that it is better to take a regular drill to work with tiles, as it can crack from the excessive power of the puncher.
Copper, bronze, aluminum
Measure the shank diameter of the fastener excluding threads. This manipulation must be performed with a caliper. Install the pointed jaws perpendicular to the self-tapping screw and clamp the product so that they completely penetrate the thread groove; determine the diameter. Using a drill with a diameter one and a half millimeters smaller than the value obtained, make a hole in the material. Screw the screw into the hole - and the job is done. Use parts with universal thread.
Note! Before "perforating" the main structure, it is recommended to test the drill on a small unnecessary piece of similar material. Drill a hole and try to screw the product into it. The drill is considered correctly selected if the self-tapping screw passes into the hole tight enough, but does not jam. In the event that the screw fails to "break through", you should work with a thicker drill. Too light twisting of the part symbolizes that you need to take a thinner drill - otherwise the self-tapping screw can pop out at any moment.
The hole in the material should be equal to or slightly larger than the unthreaded bar diameter. Self-tapping screws will not be able to cope with a number of hard metals - in particular, it is almost impossible to screw these fasteners into cast iron.
Not every plastic is ready to accept a self-tapping screw, so making sure that the material fits exactly before starting work will not be superfluous. The technology for screwing a self-tapping screw into plastic is the same as for soft metals - copper, aluminum, bronze. Recommended products - with wood carvings.
Wood, fiberboard and chipboard
Don't know how to screw a self-tapping screw into a board? Believe me, there is nothing easier. The basic rule is to use only wood screws. For durum varieties wood, thin boards, chipboard, fiberboard, pre-drilling a hole for the product is mandatory, since there is a risk of splitting the material with a self-tapping screw. For thick softwood boards, this manipulation can be dispensed with.
If you are working:
- with hardwood - choose a drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the self-tapping rod (naturally, without thread);
- with fiberboard - 1 millimeter less;
- with chipboard or soft wood - 2-3 millimeters less.
Mark points on the sheet with a pencil. The optimal step between the screws is up to 70 centimeters, depending on the expected loads on the structure. If you use a screwdriver, you can start screwing the product at maximum speed. After the screw enters the surface by ½, it is recommended to gradually reduce the speed to the minimum. When tightening with a conventional screwdriver, all movements should be smooth. It is very important to tighten the self-tapping screw correctly - ideally, it should be 1 millimeter below the level of the cardboard, not plaster! This will ensure maximum strength of the future design. If you suddenly did not follow the technology and broke through the cardboard, the “ill-fated” place needs to be puttied, and a new fastener should be placed at a distance of 5-9 centimeters from it.
The type of self-tapping screws for drywall must be selected depending on the material used in the installation of the crate. For a metal frame, universal self-tapping screws or for metal are required, for a wooden crate - wood products.
How to tighten the screwed out screw?
The unscrewed part must be re-twisted exactly as it stood before. It is very important that the self-tapping screw enters the same groove, at the same angle. If the product "draws" itself " new way”, the reliability of fastening will be significantly reduced. How to get into an already existing recess? Simply insert the part into the hole and turn it by hand without pressure. As soon as everything falls into place, you will feel it - the process will go like clockwork. You do not need to press on a tight-fitting self-tapping screw, you just need to remove it and try again. A small effort is required only at the very end of screwing.
Now you know how to screw a self-tapping screw into drywall, concrete, brick, wood and metals correctly and what to do in case of "work hitches".
- 1. Types of self-tapping screws
- 2. What can be fixed with self-tapping screws?
- 2.1 Drywall
- 2.2 Metal
- 2.3 Wood
- 2.4 Concrete
- 3. Video
When conducting construction works can not do without tightening the screws. Without a doubt, many types of work have been greatly simplified after the introduction of this fastener. And, it would seem, in this matter there are no " dark spots”, the self-tapping screw is simply screwed into the surface of the material with some tool. However, everything is somewhat more complicated than it might seem at first glance, after learning how to screw in a screw, you will understand that this process requires a separate and detailed consideration.
Types of self-tapping screws
To begin with, it is worth deciding what a self-tapping screw is. So among people is called a self-tapping screw. The bottom line is that when it is twisted into any surface, it cuts the thread itself, which ensures its reliable retention in the material. Depending on the design features, as well as the materials of manufacture, self-tapping screws can be divided into several types.
- By wood. These fasteners are made of steel, the strength of which is sufficient for working with wood, and the external thread has a large pitch.
- For metal. Such self-tapping screws are made of steel, and the finished product is hardened. Its carving has a much smaller pitch than a wood screw.
- By concrete. Here it is necessary to make a reservation that the self-tapping screw can be screwed into foam concrete blocks (and the like), although there will be nothing positive about the quality of such fastening due to the low density of the material. Self-tapping screws for monolithic concrete have not yet been invented!
Anchors are not self-tapping screws, so to work with them, a hole is pre-drilled in concrete into which it is inserted. Actuating the screw mechanism causes the anchor to expand.
In addition, self-tapping screws differ in the shape and design of the cap. Depending on this, a bit should also be selected, with the help of which screwing will occur. The point is that if this is not done, then if the self-tapping screw encounters an obstacle when screwing in, then the bit, instead of slipping out of the screw head, will turn it and break it. Or, if this does not happen, then the edges on the beat will break. In any case, this is not pleasant. That is why before you tighten the screw, you need to pay attention to the matching of the cap and bits.
As for the screwing process itself, it must be said here that the technological features will differ depending on the material into which the screw is screwed.
What can be fixed with screws?
We will consider each option for fastening with self-tapping screws of a particular material separately.
Drywall
When you have to fix drywall sheets, it is important to know some of the features that accompany this process.
- First of all, it must be said that it is necessary to choose self-tapping screws for screwing into drywall, based on the material used to make the crate. If it is made of wood, then wood screws will be needed. If metal, then the use of self-tapping screws for metal will be required.
- It is necessary to start screwing the screws into the drywall at high speeds of the screwdriver. After the self-tapping screw enters the profile, the speed must be reduced and the drywall must be pressed at minimum speed. Ideally, the head of the screw should be located a millimeter deeper than the cardboard. So the attachment point will be as strong as possible. Do not allow the cardboard layer to be punched through. If this happens, the hole must be puttied and at a distance of several centimeters from the unsuccessful fastening, tighten another self-tapping screw.
Drywall is not a strong material to which you can attach something with self-tapping screws. Therefore, only the fastening of the drywall itself is considered.
Metal
When you need to screw a self-tapping screw into metal, you need to carry out a number of preparatory measures.
- First you need to measure the diameter of the axis of the self-tapping screw. For these purposes, it is necessary to use a caliper. It is important to remember that you need to measure the diameter without taking into account the height of the thread.
- After that, you need to use a drill, 1–1.5 mm less than the diameter of the screw rod, to drill a hole in the material. To achieve the best result, you can practice on blanks made of a similar material. Ideally, the self-tapping screw should be screwed in tightly, but not wedged in the hole.
- Screwing should be carried out at medium speeds of the tool, evenly and with a slight pressure on the self-tapping screw.
If the self-tapping screw is twisted into thick metal, then the hole is made slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the self-tapping screw.
Wood
If you need to screw a screw into wooden surface, then there is less work to be done than in the previous cases. This is due to the properties of the material. However, in general, the stages of work are the same as in the case of, for example, metal.
- First, a preliminary hole is drilled slightly smaller in diameter than the self-tapping screw.
- A self-tapping screw is screwed into this hole at medium speeds of the tool.
In principle, there is nothing complicated, since it is much easier to screw a self-tapping screw into a tree than, for example, into metal.
Concrete
As for how to screw a screw into concrete, there are concrete screws for this purpose. If you drill a hole under them with a drill with a diameter of 6.5 mm, then they are screwed in and perfectly hold everything that they have secured.
An ordinary self-tapping screw for wood or metal simply will not hold there by itself, not to mention the fact that it is simply impossible to screw it in.
Also, fastening to concrete is possible with the help of additional fasteners - dowels.
- First, a hole for the dowel is drilled.
- A dowel is driven into the hole.
- A self-tapping screw is screwed into the dowel.
The procedure is quite simple, but requires some skill and experience. Self-tapping screws and dowels should be selected in close relationship with each other.
Anchors are used to obtain a stronger fastening.
Concerning general rules, how to screw in a self-tapping screw correctly, regardless of the material, it should be said that, first of all, you need to make sure that the fasteners are screwed in at an angle of 90 degrees. Overlapping must not be allowed. This will cause both additional difficulties when twisting, and less strong retention of it in the surface. And in the case of metal, it will completely lead to breakage of the self-tapping screw, which in turn will cause the entire fastening to be unusable. The speed of rotation of the drill or screwdriver must also be controlled.
However, knowing and observing the above rules for carrying out work and some technological aspects of their implementation, you can avoid most of the likely problems and carry out all the work yourself, quickly and efficiently, as befits a real master.
Video
Is it possible to tighten a self-tapping screw without tools? Get the answer by watching the video.
The modern market of building fasteners offers the buyer a wide selection of self-tapping screws - so necessary for any repair of products. However, the reviews about these "little helpers" are not always flattering.
The thing is that home craftsmen often do not know how to properly screw in a screw and how to choose it correctly in general.
Types of self-tapping screws
There are two main types of self-tapping screws used for self-repair - for wood and universal. Their main difference is in the thread pitch - "screws" for wood are characterized by a large pitch (more rare application of threads).
There is a misconception that universal parts are just as good for wood, plywood and chipboard as specialized parts. No, of course, screwing them into these materials will not be difficult, but how well they will stay there is a big question. The fact is that the “raw material” into which the self-tapping screw is “immersed” must lie securely in the grooves of the thread, and the structure of the wood will not allow it to be qualitatively located in the narrow “grooves” of the universal self-tapping screw.
Self-tapping tools
Fasteners may have caps of different sizes and recesses in them of various shapes and sizes. Therefore, before screwing in a self-tapping screw, make sure that you have a screwdriver or a screwdriver with a suitable nozzle in your arsenal. In general, it is better to have nozzles for the corresponding tools, as they say, to the maximum. Plus, they should be replaced regularly, since wear of devices during operation cannot be avoided.
Note! The best nozzles are those made of tool steel with hardening additives. Don't opt for the first set that comes across, otherwise after a couple of days of intensive work you will have to go for a new one.
If your plans include wrapping one or two self-tapping screws into a non-solid surface, then you can work with a screwdriver. If more - you can not do without a screwdriver. Tightening fasteners with a screwdriver is not as simple an operation as it might seem at first glance, and requires some skill. A screwdriver will do everything quickly and efficiently.
General technology for screwing screws
Using an awl, make a small indentation in the place reserved for the self-tapping screw. Install the product in position. With gentle but firm movements, turn the part until it is well deepened and fixed in the material. After that, the force can be increased. Toward the end of the “process”, the speed must be reduced again - so as not to damage the self-tapping screw.
How to screw self-tapping screws into different materials?
Concrete
Many men, not knowing how to screw a screw into concrete, spoil a sufficient number of purchased parts. In fact, everything is quite simple: self-tapping screws are “integrated” into concrete with the help of dowels - durable plastic “tubes”. First, a hole is made in the material, a dowel is installed there, which “accepts” the fastener.
Worth knowing! Craftsmen advise lubricating the dowels with glue before installation. This, in their opinion, strengthens the connections.
Drilling holes in concrete should be done exclusively with a hammer drill - even an impact drill may not withstand, let alone a conventional one. Self-tapping screws are suitable for both wood and universal.
Brick, ceramic tiles, screed
Self-tapping screws are screwed into these environments in the same way as into concrete. The only thing is that it is better to take a regular drill to work with tiles, as it can crack from the excessive power of the puncher.
Copper, bronze, aluminum
Measure the shank diameter of the fastener excluding threads. This manipulation must be performed with a caliper. Install the pointed jaws perpendicular to the self-tapping screw and clamp the product so that they completely penetrate the thread groove; determine the diameter. Using a drill with a diameter one and a half millimeters smaller than the value obtained, make a hole in the material. Screw a self-tapping screw into the hole - and the job is done. Use parts with universal thread.
Note! Before "perforating" the main structure, it is recommended to test the drill on a small unnecessary piece of similar material. Drill a hole and try to screw the product into it. The drill is considered correctly selected if the self-tapping screw passes into the hole tight enough, but does not jam. In the event that the screw fails to "break through", you should work with a thicker drill. Too light twisting of the part symbolizes that you need to take a thinner drill - otherwise the self-tapping screw can pop out at any moment.
hard metals
The hole in the material should be equal to or slightly larger than the unthreaded bar diameter. Self-tapping screws will not be able to cope with a number of hard metals - in particular, it is almost impossible to screw these fasteners into cast iron.
Plastic
Not every plastic is ready to accept a self-tapping screw, so making sure that the material fits exactly before starting work will not be superfluous. The technology for screwing a self-tapping screw into plastic is the same as for soft metals - copper, aluminum, bronze. Recommended products - with wood carvings.
Wood, fiberboard and chipboard
Don't know how to screw a self-tapping screw into a board? Believe me, there is nothing easier. The main rule is to use only wood screws. For hardwoods, thin boards, chipboard, fiberboard, pre-drilling a hole for the product is mandatory, since there is a risk of splitting the material with a self-tapping screw. For thick softwood boards, this manipulation can be dispensed with.
If you are working:
- with hardwood - choose a drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the self-tapping rod (naturally, without thread);
- with fiberboard - 1 millimeter less;
- with chipboard or soft wood - 2-3 millimeters less.
Drywall
Mark points on the sheet with a pencil. The optimal step between the screws is up to 70 centimeters, depending on the expected loads on the structure. If you use a screwdriver, you can start screwing the product at maximum speed. After the screw enters the surface by ½, it is recommended to gradually reduce the speed to the minimum. When tightening with a conventional screwdriver, all movements should be smooth. It is very important to tighten the self-tapping screw correctly - ideally, it should be 1 millimeter below the level of the cardboard, not plaster! This will ensure maximum strength of the future design. If you suddenly did not follow the technology and broke through the cardboard, the “ill-fated” place needs to be puttied, and a new fastener should be placed at a distance of 5-9 centimeters from it.
The type of self-tapping screws for drywall must be selected depending on the material used in the installation of the crate. For a metal frame, universal or metal screws are required, for a wooden crate - wood products.
How to tighten the screwed out screw?
The unscrewed part must be re-twisted exactly as it stood before. It is very important that the self-tapping screw enters the same groove, at the same angle. If the product “draws” a “new path” for itself, the reliability of fastening will be significantly reduced. How to get into an already existing recess? Simply insert the part into the hole and turn it by hand without pressure. As soon as everything falls into place, you will feel it - the process will go like clockwork. You do not need to press on a tight-fitting self-tapping screw, you just need to remove it and try again. A small effort is required only at the very end of screwing.
Now you know how to screw a self-tapping screw into drywall, concrete, brick, wood and metals correctly and what to do in case of "work hitches".
There are self-tapping screws for concrete, which, without drilling and other preparatory operations, will securely fasten the cladding materials to the walls. This is convenient: any finishing task is significantly accelerated and facilitated. Although experienced builders are advised not to be too lazy with the preparation of the hole.
What do self-tapping screws for aerated concrete look like?
Self-tapping screws are fasteners that are made in the form of rods with heads. They have a special external thread, with which they are screwed into the surface. That is, self-tapping screws are core screws that have been threaded using a special variable method. This method helps to ensure fixation and good adhesion to concrete structures. Self-tapping screws are shaped like a long rod with a pointed end on one side and a round cross-shaped head on the other.
For concrete structures, special hardware products are needed. Manufacturers have taken this fact into account, and on store shelves you can always see self-tapping screws for aerated concrete and ordinary concrete. To screw in any other hardware, you first need to drill a hole of the required diameter, in concrete structures this can only be done with the participation of a hammer drill or impact drill. Then dowels are driven in, for example, from plastic, of the appropriate size, and only then can screws be screwed in. This path must be done, otherwise the fasteners will not hold firmly on the surface, but there are also other ways!
Self-tapping screws for concrete - dimensions and other parameters
Since these hardware must be firmly held in such a rigid material as concrete, then they must be made of durable metal. It is important that the material is also moisture resistant. Therefore, they are often made of stainless and carbon steel, or brass. For greater strength, self-tapping screws are covered with protective layers, so they can be of the following types:
- silver color, galvanized, good for all kinds of work;
- yellow, galvanized, suitable for indoor use, quite suitable for outdoor fastenings, serve well as decorative hardware;
- black with an oxidized coating, used only for rooms with a normal level of humidity.
In order to fasten self-tapping screws in different bases, they are specially made with certain thread pitches. Usually, for these hardware, a medium pitch and a variable pitch are used, with notches. The main characteristics that can describe self-tapping screws for concrete: head dimensions, length, thread pitch. We give an approximate classification, according to this list of parameters.
- Self-tapping screws with an average thread pitch and with a universal profile, they can be used to fasten different types. They will have a diameter of 3-6 mm, and they will be from 12 to 220 mm long. This type of screws is the most popular.
- Self-tapping screws are also with an average thread pitch, but with a different profile - herringbone. They need to be used with dowels, they will have a diameter of 3-8 mm, and a length of 12 to 200 mm.
- The third type is self-tapping screws with a variable notch (nagel). Such hardware is used for fastening to concrete walls without dowels, they are 7.5 mm in diameter and 70-200 mm long.
For the latter type of self-tapping screws, holes must be drilled with special drills for concrete, the diameter of which is about 6 mm, and the depth should be made 10-15 mm more than the selected fastener length.
How to screw a self-tapping screw into concrete - prepare a hole
Self-tapping screws for working with concrete must not only withstand heavy loads, but also provide a reliable and durable fastening. Therefore, materials and design are chosen taking into account these properties. Before screwing a self-tapping screw into concrete or aerated concrete, you must additionally use dowels. Thanks to these auxiliary elements, a strong and reliable fastening to the supporting bases is ensured. Auxiliary elements are made of nylon, polyethylene and polypropylene.
These elements consist of two parts: cylindrical and spacer. The purpose of the cylindrical part is to correct the fixation in the plaster so that the layer is not destroyed. The spacer part helps to firmly fix the entire structure in the holes. The most basic task of these devices is to ensure that fasteners can be easily screwed in, at the same time they must be securely fixed to the wall. We will tell you right now how to provide additional strength and reliability to the fasteners, so that in the future you can screw in the self-tapping screw on concrete without any problems.
For example, in order to drill holes, you need to use concrete drills, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the dowels. All holes must be made 3 or 5 mm longer than the length of the dowel. And it is necessary to select self-tapping screws of the same length as the length of the dowels, or a little more. It is important that the dowels fit into the finished holes easily and without additional effort. To install them in concrete or aerated concrete, you only need to slightly trim with light tapping with a hammer. Self-tapping screws are tightened with both a screwdriver and a screwdriver.
If it is important for you to mount without dowels, then this method exists, but experienced craftsmen use it very rarely. AT this case self-tapping screws will need to be screwed directly into the prepared holes. If the surface itself is made of porous materials, then drilling with a perforator is impossible. To facilitate the work associated with screwing, you must use any engine oil. It needs to drip or smear holes. Only this way allows you to screw the screws forever. In the future, it will be impossible to unscrew them.
Self-tapping screws for concrete with a herringbone profile can be driven into the surface with a hammer. This method is also considered "eternal", and it is not possible to unscrew the hardware back. In the prepared holes, together with the dowels, the screws must be driven in with a hammer. The main advantage of this method is speed. In this case, no additional time is needed for the installation and fixing of auxiliary elements.
Choosing self-tapping screws for concrete - what are the criteria?
The main purpose of these hardware is to be in the wall and carry any load at the same time. So that they can last long enough, you need to choose them correctly, take into account the main design features and characteristics. Not only the service life, that is, the ability to withstand a certain load for a long time, but also the appearance will depend on their length. Today, you can buy self-tapping screws for concrete from different manufacturers. When buying, you need to pay attention to the thickness, the material from which they are made, and the presence of protective coatings.
It is also possible to choose self-tapping screws that match the color of the design of the room. Often decorative elements are attached to these hardware, and therefore it is possible to purchase them with colored heads.
There are also special fittings for masking on the surface of the heads. Self-tapping screws for working with concrete are particularly durable. The head is often made in a cruciform shape for ease of use. It is important to choose the right screwdriver. Also, this type of hardware is additionally treated with an anti-corrosion layer. If, with a method such as driving in, the screws remain in the wall forever, it is important that the integrity of the metal is not compromised.
How to fasten screws?
If you have to pull one structural element to another with a screw, you should make a screw thread in the first of them. The second will contain the smooth part of the screw, which is located immediately under the cap. The smooth part must necessarily enter the body of the attracted fragment.
Otherwise, you will not get a rigid grip of the planes due to the gap formed between them.
Countersinking is done so that the blind cap does not protrude on the surface of the part or fragment. Sometimes masters neglect countersinks, believing that they can drive a screw into soft material so that its head goes deep into the surface and does not protrude.
Of course, sometimes this is possible, and if desired, you can tighten any screw without making a countersink in advance. However, it is worth remembering that the wood fibers will be damaged by such an impact on them, because they will have to find a “way out” under pressure, and, therefore, the presentation will be lost.
Screw slots can be:
- straight,
- cruciform.
Some models of screws even have special plugs.
They are put on a twisted head, visually hiding it. Models are presented on the head of which there is no slot at all. They have to be tightened with a head or a wrench.
Stages of work on fasteners
Screw manufacturers are not always responsible for their products. There are screws on sale, in the caps of which the screwdriver is not inserted at all, for the reason that the slot is made shallow, or there are burrs in it.
It's better to throw them away. When purchasing good screws, follow some rules to tighten them reliably and efficiently:
- drill a hole in the first part;
- make sure that the diameter of the hole is equal to the diameter of the screw (including its smooth part and thread);
- insert the screw into the hole without force;
- drill a hole in the second part;
- check that its diameter matches the diameter of the screw, but without taking into account the thread, because the screw must enter here with force;
- countersink the hole in the first piece.
If the craftsman has a special drill that helps combine the two steps (drilling and countersinking), the process is simplified and accelerated.
Keep in mind that any special drill can only fit specific models of screws.
Countersinking
The screw will only drive into the second part if you approach the process scientifically, i.e. use special drills or do your work in stages. He will pass freely through the first part, and his hat will tightly pull one part to the second.
If a small diameter screw is used, drilling is not required. You just need to apply force and make a hole with an awl.
Working with screws involves a number of subtleties. Sometimes you have to come up with a whole variety of tricks to tighten or unscrew the screw.
For non-standard cases, these tricks have already been invented.
Self-tapping screws for concrete without pre-drilling holes
For example, if you need to unscrew a screw that is desperately “resting”, an adjustable wrench is used. This tool clamps the handle, if it has edges, as well as the upper part of the slot. With one hand, press on the screwdriver, with the other turn the adjustable wrench.
A hammer is also successfully used.
The screwdriver is inserted into the slot, then it is necessary to lightly tap on its handle with a hammer while rotating the screwdriver, just tap, and not knock hard. Screws "with character" are turned out with a heated soldering iron, which is pressed against the cap.
Such "torture" usually helps.
For no apparent reason, difficulties also occur with twisting / unscrewing. It seems that the slot is not defective, and the screw is put in place, and the screwdriver is normal, but the process is not going on. Check if the working part of the screwdriver matches the slot of the screw. If the size does not match, the screwdriver will behave incorrectly, approximately like a foot in the wrong size shoe.
There are cases when the length of the screw is not enough to connect two fragments.
In this case, a hole is drilled in the first of them, first equal to the diameter of the screw without thread, and then a second, blind hole is drilled in it, equal in diameter to the screw head. The screw and cap will partially go deep into the first fragment. The hole can be puttied so that it is not visible.
When tightening the screw with a screwdriver, choose a longer model.
The farther the hand with the screwdriver is from the cap, the less the tilt of the axis will be. If you need to drive a screw into hard wood, be sure to drill a hole, and before screwing, rub it with soap or vegetable oil. To strengthen fasteners, many craftsmen use glue: they dip the screw into it, and only then screw it in. It enters the tree more easily, and then fastens it “tightly”.
Benefits of fiberboard
Marking
Preparing for styling
Base
The nuances of mounting plates
Completion of styling
Fiberboard (more often you can see the abbreviated name, fiberboard) is a frequent guest of construction and finishing stores.
The scope of its use is quite extensive, but often it is used for rough flooring or even as an independent flooring. Its main advantage in this regard is the ability to mount on almost all surfaces, including the previously made coating.
So, how to lay fiberboard on the floor?
Fiberboard boasts the ability to hide various surface defects, such as gaps, cavities or height differences. Today, professionals most often use fiberboard 3 mm thick. When the old base is not too even, then choose sheets twice as thick.
For the lower floors, the rear one should use oil-impregnated fiberboard, as they are more moisture resistant.
Benefits of fiberboard
Among the main advantages of fiberboard, it is necessary to highlight the following:
- environmental friendliness (in the composition of the material only natural wood);
- simple installation;
- a flat surface that helps to get a perfectly flat floor;
- low price;
- increased resistance to mechanical stress;
- due to the peculiarities of production - a dense structure;
- bypasses even a whole tree in antiseptic properties;
- durability;
- strength.
It should be noted that the last two properties are relevant only in the case of proper operation of the coatings.
This also means the creation of an additional layer for protection, which allows you to isolate the material from moisture. For him, the best choice would be water-repellent varnishes and paints, which at the same time will improve performance appearance coatings.
Another useful quality of fiberboard is excellent sound and heat insulation, which allows it to be used as a heater.
This is especially true for the lower floors of buildings, where the slabs are laid on the floor. Most often, the M-20 and PT-100 brands are used for this.
Almost any other coating can be installed on top of fiberboard.
Marking
Today on the market you can find a huge range of fiberboards.
In order not to get lost in their diversity, you should focus on the following markings:
- T - solid slabs, the front surface was not additionally ennobled;
- T-P - the front surface is tinted;
- Т-С - the front surface is made of finely dispersed wood pulp;
- T-SP - the front surface is made of tinted wood pulp and painted;
- M-1 - M-3 - soft plates;
- ST - superhard slabs, the front surface is not ennobled;
- ST-S - the front surface is made of finely dispersed wood pulp.
Preparing for styling
Before proceeding with the direct installation of fiberboards, some initial work should be done.
Chief among them is the adaptation of the plates to the humidity in the room, which should save them from possible swelling. The work itself is quite simple - you need to moisten the surface of the sheets with a roller with warm water. Then fiberboard is assembled in pairs with the back sides to each other. After a day, the fiberboard slab for the floor is ready for laying, you can proceed to further work.
An important point: this procedure is not performed in continuously heated rooms. Instead, the sheets are simply left alone for 48 hours.
One of the areas of application of fiberboard is surface leveling.
In case of small differences, the sheets are laid directly on the base. For large ones, it will be necessary to install a flooring from a log. A level is used to check for evenness.
Base
Often, a wooden floor acts as the base of the floor, which can be seen in numerous photos.
Self-tapping screws for concrete: selection options
In this case, plates with a thickness of about 6 mm are used for laying. Substrate under fiberboard on a wooden floor is not required.
You can also get an almost perfectly flat surface with the help of a screed made of sand and cement, the manufacture of which is carried out with a drawn line. The principle of operation here is quite simple: first, we clean the coating very carefully, and then dry it. Next, a layer of sand up to 50 mm thick should be poured, over which the solution is distributed. After it hardens, bitumen or a primer dissolved in gasoline is applied on top.
The hardening time of such a mixture is about 8 hours, after which the gluing of fiberboard sheets begins.
To do this, the screed is covered with a layer of mastic or glue over the entire surface.
The fiberboard for the floor is processed in the same way. It is worth noting that the mastic dries very quickly, so the process is done with one sheet at a time, and the composition should be applied immediately before laying.
The mastic is leveled with a rubber comb, after which the plate is attached to the floor. It is advisable to press down the laid plate with some kind of load.
The floor will be completely ready in a few days.
Separately, it is worth highlighting the option of laying on logs. With it, it is important to measure the size of the sheets before installation. Further, based on the data obtained, markup is made where exactly the logs and fiberboard sheets will be laid. As the logs themselves, boards or beams are used, dried and treated with an antiseptic, which are attached directly to the floor surface at a distance of no more than 40 cm between them.
Very important: it is impossible to use an undried tree, as this is fraught with rapid decay of the base of the floor and subsequent creaking.
With this approach, you will have to change the coating every couple of years.
To install the lags evenly, chipboard gaskets may be required. If they have been previously installed, their condition should be carefully inspected and, if necessary, repaired or replaced. Before you start laying fiberboard, it will not be superfluous to measure the room again. It is very important that the width of the slabs does not exceed the width of the lag, otherwise the floor may turn out to be uneven.
The nuances of mounting plates
Before you start laying fiberboard boards, you should carefully inspect the floor surface for signs of mold. If any are found, the affected areas should be treated with an antiseptic. Laying fiberboard directly on the old coating is carried out only if it has a whole even surface.
Otherwise, you will need to clean it first.
A gap of 5-10 mm should be left between the extreme sheets and the wall, which will become an expansion joint. In order to hide it, a plinth is used afterwards. Fiberboard boards should be joined to each other as much as possible in order to avoid any distortions.
Laying fiberboard starts from the opposite corner from the exit. They are laid out along adjacent walls. The bottom side (rougher) of the plate should be at the top - this will allow for a stronger connection with the mastic.
If fiberboard plans to be attached to glue, it is pre-leveled over the entire surface of the sheet, after which it is allowed to dry a little.
For additional strength of the connection, it will be useful to prime the floor. After fixing, a load is placed on top of the coating surface. It is very important to check the position of the board (both horizontal and vertical) after each gluing and pressing.
If there is a pipeline in the room, care should be taken in advance that a certain gap remains around the circumference of the pipes, which is filled with cement mortar.
If fiberboard is laid on logs, then the sheets should be leveled and laid in such a way that the edges and joints fall exactly in the middle of the bars - such measures are necessary to create the most reliable and durable floor.
Another advantage of this approach is that in the event of a breakdown, you will not have to replace the entire floor at once - it will be enough to get by with damaged sheets. Each subsequent plate is aligned with a slight offset relative to the previous one to ensure the stability of the structure.
It is also extremely contraindicated to place joints in those places that have a large load. Examples include a refrigerator, a cooker, and similar places where people often walk.
So, how to attach fiberboard to wooden floor: fastening of plates is carried out using nails, screws or self-tapping screws.
If the thickness of the plate is from 19 mm, then only 50 mm nails are used, which are driven in in 10 cm increments at an angle of 30 degrees. Nail heads should be recessed into the surface - they should not stick out from above. Traces of fasteners are additionally sealed with putty - its color should be matched to the color of the future floor covering.
There are special nails for fixing the plates, which are focused on working with this material.
The method of laying fiberboard on logs allows you to get a warmer floor. Additional insulation is laid in the network cells. In addition, the places where the plates are attached to the logs are completely invisible. In order for them to lie as evenly as possible, you may need to additionally cut them with a knife or jigsaw.
In the case of a particularly complex cutting, you can prepare a cardboard template. Hardboard flooring on a wooden floor is carried out without a primer.
Completion of styling
The final stage of work includes finishing the floor. It consists mainly in the most careful control of the seams. If glue is found, it should be removed with a rag, and the found gaps 2-3 mm wide are treated with putty. The joints are additionally glued with reinforcing tape - this will further increase the strength of the connection.
Many people prefer to prime or sand the subfloor.
This stage of work is not at all necessary, especially if you plan to lay laminate, parquet, carpet, etc. on top. If you plan to paint the floor from the VDP with your own hands, preference should be given to a paint composition with water-repellent properties and alkyd enamels.
Home > Articles > The choice for the use of a self-tapping drill
| K | F | G | |
| Designation | Rec. Drilling capacity, mm |
Min. Profile thickness, mm | Effective thread length, mm |
| 4.8 x 29 | 2.30 | 1.30 | 18.00 |
| 4.8 x 38 | 2.30 | 1.30 | 27.00 |
| 4.8 x 50 | 2.30 | 1.30 | 40.00 |
| 4.8 x 60 | 2.30 | 1.30 | 50.00 |
| 4.8 x 70 | 2.30 | 1.30 | 60.00 |
| 4.8 x 80 | 2.30 | 1.30 | 70.00 |
| 5.5 x 19 | 5.30 | 1.30 | 6.00 |
| 5.5 x 25 | 5.30 | 1.30 | 12.00 |
| 5.5 x 32 | 5.30 | 1.30 | 18.00 |
| 5.5 x 38 | 5.30 | 1.30 | 24.00 |
| 5.5 x 51 | 5.30 | 1.30 | 37.00 |
| 5.5 x 64 | 5.30 | 1.30 | 48.00 |
| 5.5 x 76 | 5.30 | 1.30 | 60.00 |
| 6.3 x 19 | 6.50 | 1.30 | 4.00 |
| 6.3 x 25 | 6.50 | 1.30 | 10.00 |
| 6.3 x 32 | 6.50 | 1.30 | 16.00 |
| 6.3 x 38 | 6.50 | 1.30 | 22.00 |
| 6.3 x 50 | 6.50 | 1.30 | 36.00 |
| 6.3 x 60 | 6.50 | 1.30 | 44.00 |
| 6.3 x 80 | 6.50 | 1.30 | 64.00 |
| 6.3 x 100 | 6.50 | 1.30 | 84.00 |
| 6.3 x 130 | 6.50 | 1.30 | 115.00 |
| 6.3 x 150 | 6.50 | 1.30 | 135.00 |
| 6.3 x 175 | 6.50 | 1.30 | 160.00 |
Selection for the application of the appropriate self-tapping drill
PULL-OUT FORCE, kN
| Self-tapping screw diameter, mm | drill | 0.46 | 0.61 | 0.76 | 0.91 | 1,22 | 1,52 | 1,91 | 2,67 | 4,17 | 5,69 | 6,35 |
| 4,2 | №2 | 0.543 | 0.872 | 1.192 | 1.339 | 2.197 | 3.14 | 4.279 | 6.944 | — | — | — |
| 4,2 | №3 | 0.547 | 0.863 | 1.076 | 1.281 | 2.104 | 2.963 | 4.061 | 6.348 | 10.186 | — | — |
| 4,8 | №1 | 0.672 | 1.085 | 1.397 | 1.601 | 2.527 | 3.688 | 4.955 | 8.002 | — | — | — |
| 4,8 | №2 | 0.596 | 0.965 | 1.223 | 1.65 | 2.447 | 3.501 | 4.608 | 7.366 | — | — | — |
| 4,8 | №3 | 0.565 | 0.939 | 1.197 | 1.343 | 2.233 | 3.163 | 4.315 | 6.57 | 9.252 | 11.632 | — |
| 5,5 | №1 | 0.716 | 1.174 | 1.517 | 1.748 | 2.900 | 4.052 | 5.614 | 8.683 | — | — | — |
| 5,5 | №2 | 0.707 | 1.094 | 1.272 | 1.681 | 2.705 | 3.785 | 5.267 | 8.269 | 11.436 | 15.671 | — |
| 5,5 | №3 | 0.645 | 0.952 | 1.299 | 1.530 | 2.464 | 3.381 | 4.742 | 7.268 | 10.778 | 13.349 | — |
| 5,5 | № 4 | — | — | — | — | 2.215 | 3.114 | 4.399 | 6.828 | 10.871 | 15.515 | 17.112 |
| 5,5 | №5 | — | — | — | — | 2.180 | 3.123 | 4.075 | 6.806 | 9.831 | 16.476 | 17.802 |
| 6,3 | №1 | 0.939 | 1.477 | 1.917 | 2.513 | 3.572 | 5.133 | — | — | — | — | — |
| 6,3 | №2 | 0.752 | 1.192 | 1.410 | 1.926 | 2.882 | 4.115 | 5.138 | — | — | 20.889 | — |
| 6,3 | №3 | 0.641 | 1.041 | 1.317 | 1.5 52 | 2.727 | 3.928 | 5.107 | 8.278 | 10.716 | 20.253 | 22.401 |
SHEARING FORCE, kN
K, Steel base thickness, kN
| Self-tapping screw diameter, mm | drill | 0.46 | 0.61 | 0.76 | 0.91 | 1.22 | 1.52 | 1.91 | 2.67 | 4.17 | 5.69 | 6.35 |
| 4,2 | №2 | 1,321 | 2,22 | 2,504 | 3,305 | 4,728 | 4,809 | — | — | — | — | — |
| 4,2 | №3 | — | — | — | 3.261 | 4.862 | 5.396 | 5.413 | — | — | — | — |
| 48 | №2 | 1.401 | 2.14 | 2.633 | 3.705 | 5.378 | 5.654 | — | — | — | — | — |
| 4,8 | №3 | — | — | — | 3.252 | 5.645 | 6.864 | 6.917 | — | — | — | — |
| 5,5 | №1 | 1.935 | 3.14 | 3.363 | 4.542 | 6.472 | — | — | — | — | — | — |
| 5,5 | №2 | 1.637 | 2.682 | 2.785 | 4.008 | 6.107 | 7.833 | 9.524 | — | — | — | — |
| 5,5 | №3 | — | — | — | 3.434 | 6.054 | 7.219 | 8.776 | 8.847 | — | — | — |
| 5,5 | № 4 | — | — | — | — | — | — | — | 9.123 | 9.0430 | — | — |
| 5,5 | №5 | — | — | — | — | — | — | — | — | 12.023 | 12.112 | 12.299 |
| 6,3 | №1 | 2.286 | 3.79 | 3.95 | 5.547 | 7.860 | — | — | — | — | — | — |
| 6,3 | №3 | — | — | — | 4.150 | 6.428 | 9.355 | 11.504 | 11.081 | 12.557 | — | — |
Sometimes it becomes necessary to attach the dowel to the wall, but it breaks halfway. Or you don't have the plastic part of the dowel and it's hard to find it at the right time. In such cases where you need to attach a screw without a dowel, you can use a complex but effective method which you will read below.
For screws in masonry or concrete wall without a dowel, you need tools.
However, there is nothing rare and hard to find, it is not necessary. Need to pre-install the drill bit, drill bit (more than high quality universal or for concrete), much smaller than a screw or screw and even a screwdriver.
First, mark the point where this screw or bolt should be installed.
Then, take the blade, cut it out on the background at the point with the cutting lines. Get back the received back flowers. This must be done so as not to damage the wallpaper. Later, if you need to pull the screw, you can close the space again.
Then you need to drill a thin drill that is slightly thinner than a screw. Drill and smooth drill. Do not allow the hole to be larger than the specified size, otherwise the screw will not be installed correctly.
Insert a match into the hole that is best immersed in PVA glue.
Now you can screw the screwdriver with a screwdriver. Just don't use a screwdriver. Use it nicely at low rpm. The fact is that if a bolt with a screw at high speeds, it enters the wall very quickly and can move several times and thereby destroy the walls of the hole. Accordingly, the corresponding fixation in this case will be.
Now the walls can hang a picture, a piece of furniture in the courses and even some courses.
By the way, this method works best if the walls are strong enough, such as high-quality brick or reinforced concrete slabs. If the wall is easy to cut, it is better to use another method.
Cut off the blade of the background, bend the flowers.
Turboshurupy - or like a screw in concrete
Drill a hole slightly deeper and larger than the diameter of the screw or screw you wish to drive into the wall. Cutting, depending on the size of the hole formed, should not protrude outward.
Before inserting the chip into drilled hole, immerse it in PVA. Tighten the hole. This method is ideal for fragile walls that are collapsing for some reason. This way you get a wooden covering in the wall that you can breathe everything into and then hang a screw or screw that is really needed.
START-CAPE CONFERENCE
questions about repair, maintenance, refueling, selection
Go to graphic version
all: repairing screw holes
0th Anatoliy513.03.13 20:20
Sometimes it happens that the screw in the plastic is defective. Who solves this problem?
first ASSP23.3.13 20:27
Hmm... If you follow the laws of physics, then in this case you need to "add" material to the hole, or increase the diameter (or change the thread height) of the screw...
second CAT13.03.13 20:46
... There are many options - everyone chooses the one that suits him best.
From observation ;) - Sometimes bring repair equipment with bent threads in a plastic and self-leveling state.
Versions I've seen:
<б>1 placeReproducibility, the part matches or toothpicks are screwed into the hole and the screw (in principle, this is logical - the part corresponds to a decrease in the diameter of the hole and the screw does not rotate while holding ..), including options - instead of matching with any piece of foil or a thin plastic chip (usually edge plastic clips).
<б>2nd place: insert a bolt with a larger diameter/length into this hole (depending on whether larger screws can be used).
<б>3rd place: Various adhesives or fillers…
... even a few times it was found that they had put a screw on something like super glue. It is curious that the screw with great effort still makes concessions (and even the frozen glue thread remains, so the screw is screwed back into normal ..), but in one case the screw is squeezed out of the hole, glue in the gap between the connected parts - the screw answered I did it, but I had to work with a chisel to break the glued surfaces.
Only miraculously plastic when split.
<б>4th placeA: People just hammered … … not in the sense of a blown hammer screw and insert the screw into the hole and the result of what he did not have to, if something is not always screwed into the insert hole — results that the screws do not …
the third Contrabas13.03.13 20:55
And people came with epoxy glue and plastic that dissolves easily in acetone. But it's not good if there is no time to get rid of..
fourth mhz8613.03.13 20:57
mainly used
<цитировать><б>CAT(2): 2nd
FC copiers were badly broken desk holes.
Large diameter drilled, machined needles that were raised on a very tight plastic axle (mf 6550 hobs), mounted on adhesives and holes in normal screws...
<цитировать><б>Contrabas(3): when there is no time to burn. <цитировать><б>CAT(2): People just get hammered
Edit: 20:57 mhz86
CAT13.03.13 20:57
<цитировать><б>Contrabas(3): plastic which can be soluble in acetone.- Well, yes - drop two or three drops of dichloroethane into the hole and insert the screw ...
sixth Contrabas13.03.13 21:05
(5) And here you are..
Sometimes they bring it. Cartridges with construction screws, not pins. There are also holes for which you want to name the hole.
seventh ASSP23/03/13 21:51
(6) "When the hole 'hole' of the hole begins to exceed the surface of the product, such product is considered invalid."
My school teacher is at work...)))
eighths Contrabas13.03.13 22:04
(7) a good look at the master, competent, just don't forget ..)) For us, these records often appear, which does not seem to have been their school teacher at work, but in physics and more for what..
A nail can't hit a nail, but a phone jack can be screwed in.. (
tenths Ingmar13.3.13 22:35
when the holes are not exactly broken, but they are removed with plastic foil, I use a mixture of baking soda with cyanoacrylate. The resulting mass is completely drilled, processed by a file and held tightly with plastic. The only negative, frozen in less than one second.
11 ASSP13.03.13 22:41
(8) The moderators forgive me again - I'm very lucky to have teachers at all.
The same craftsman I mentioned taught me how to work on lathes and milling machines and correctly (and used) correctly (and this is much more difficult than any machine), with a screwdriver, hammer, chisel, etc. Good teachers were in the old days.
But I was dissatisfied with the chemistry teacher. Her surname was (who wants to - he believes, and who wants to - no) Kaplan ... Probably everyone will guess that the first question I asked when I "find out."
)) After that, I did not rise above the “troika” in chemistry, and the “red diploma” covered the “copper pool” equally.)))
How to screw a screw onto concrete on a very strong base?
Andrew03-14-2013 00:48
In particular, for this purpose, a glass of dichloroethane with a plastic stopper is dissolved from slot 5.25 of the computer to the consistency of thick sour cream.
The droplet falls into the hole and inserts the screw. The next time the cartridge comes in, it is extremely twisted and twisted.
And in general, this crowd restored many things, but recently became addicted to adhesive glue (although it is not suitable for carving - more than a plastic screw)
Printers, copiers, multifunction devices, fax machines and other office equipment:
questions about repair, maintenance, refueling, selection
Go to graphic version
Today it is impossible to do without fasteners in construction. They allow you to connect different Construction Materials, hang objects, reinforce certain structures, and so on. One of the most common fasteners is a self-tapping screw. This product has external thread and head. The thread is relatively sharp, so it can cut itself in some materials internal thread. This article will discuss how to screw a self-tapping screw into the most different materials. But first, let's deal with the classification of these products.
Classification
This fastener is available in various materials such as brass, stainless steel and carbon steel. Also, self-tapping screws have different coatings, such as:
- galvanized (yellow);
- oxidized black;
- phosphated black;
- without cover.
They differ in the type of head:
- semi-cylindrical;
- secret;
- hexagonal;
- hemispherical.
The use of one or another self-tapping screw depends on the density of the material that you plan to mount. Therefore, before buying this product, you need to decide on the following:
- Connection operating conditions.
- Is it necessary to drill a hole before screwing?
- What material should it be wrapped in?
- What material will be attached.
Based on this, you make the appropriate choice, whether it will be a self-tapping screw for metal, wood or concrete.
The main difference between self-tapping screws for wood is a rare carving, unlike their counterparts designed for metal. Such fasteners can be black, golden and white. So, if it is necessary to fasten a golden loop on the door, then a golden self-tapping screw is selected accordingly. In most cases, the choice falls on a black screw.
As already mentioned, the thread on such a self-tapping screw has a frequent pitch. This is due to the fact that the metal is a fairly hard material, so the clutch must be made strong. Moreover, some metals should not be pre-drilled, for example, tin. As for thicker metals, you will need to make a hole.
Such self-tapping screws are used for fastening roofing sheet material. It must be equipped with a rubber seal. As a result, the connection, in addition to strength, becomes airtight.
This type of self-tapping screw requires pre-drilling a hole in the piece of furniture. A hex wrench is used to tighten it.
These are perhaps the most common types of self-tapping screws that are used in various areas of construction. Let's look at the details of how to screw one or another self-tapping screw into different surfaces.
When finishing the ceiling and walls, drywall is often used. And given that this material is relatively fragile, it is important to be careful when screwing a self-tapping screw into it. So, to screw a self-tapping screw into drywall, you need a screwdriver with a nozzle or a Phillips screwdriver.
Much depends on the purpose for which the self-tapping screw will be screwed into the drywall. For example, if you need to hang a small object, then you must first insert a special dowel, which, when tightening the screws, forms a secure fastening. If it is necessary to screw the self-tapping screw directly into the drywall, for example, fixing it to the profile, then the technology is as follows:
- Mark up on drywall. Depending on the possible load, the step between fasteners can be from 20 to 70 cm.
- Next, put a self-tapping screw on a screwdriver or screwdriver nozzle and attach it to the point.
- Then you start spinning it. If you use a screwdriver, then you should not turn on high speeds. Otherwise, there is a risk to scroll the screw and it will not hold anything. This also applies to the performance of the work with a screwdriver. Don't pressure her. The self-tapping screw has a thread that will allow you to screw it into drywall without much effort.
- It is very important to tighten the screw so as not to break through the top layer of cardboard. For example, if you attach drywall to a profile, then a self-tapping screw can simply fall into cardboard with great effort. So, the head of the self-tapping screw should slightly press the top layer of cardboard. But don't leave it unfinished. Otherwise, when puttying, you will have difficulties.
The diagram shows correct and incorrect twisting:
After tightening, the fastener head should be 1 mm below the general surface level. This will ensure sufficient tension.
What if you failed to successfully tighten the self-tapping screw and it broke through the cardboard? In this case, unscrew it back, putty the hole, and screw in a new self-tapping screw at a distance of 50–80 mm.
As for the type of self-tapping screw, its choice depends on the material used for the crate, whether it is wood or metal. As for the length, it is enough that it enters the profile up to 10 mm.
As for screwing a self-tapping screw into metal, fasteners are used here only for metal. The twisting method depends on the thickness of the workpiece. If this is a thin tin, then often you can twist it without much effort with a screwdriver or screwdriver. Moreover, there are different types self-tapping screws. Some have a small bit with sharpened teeth on the point, as shown in the picture.
But as practice shows, not all such self-tapping screws can be screwed into metal, this is explained by the weak sharpening of the drill. So, a screwdriver is used to twist them. You should not gain high speed, otherwise the self-tapping screw may overheat and quickly become dull. Such fasteners can be used for metal up to 7 mm thick.
If the metal is too thick, then the best option there will be a preliminary drilling of the hole with a drill / drill, and after screwing the fasteners into it. This method is not associated with any problems.
When making a hole, remember that it should be smaller in diameter than a self-tapping screw. When the hole is ready, it can be lubricated with machine oil. This will allow you to tighten the screw without much difficulty.
The self-tapping screw used for metal must be made of solid steel, which is harder than the product.
As for the tree, everything is very simple here. The only restrictions may be imposed by the type of wood used. If it is soft, then pre-drilling the hole is not necessary. If the workpiece is made of chipboard or fiberboard, then it is better to drill a hole. Moreover, it is recommended to drill a hole in cases where it is necessary to tighten a long wood screw. This applies even to soft wood.
When making a hole, its diameter must be smaller than that of a self-tapping screw. This will ensure that the workpieces are securely fastened.
In addition, a hole should also be made in cases where the wood blank is relatively thin and there is a risk of splitting it. When screwing a self-tapping screw into such parts, you need to be careful.
When twisting, the hat should sink into the wood. If this is a finishing floor, then all holes must be covered with wood putty.
If we talk about concrete, then this is certainly a solid material, and for screwing a self-tapping screw into it, you can’t do without an impact drill or puncher. It is worth noting that in this case, for tightening the self-tapping screw can be combined with plastic stopper from dowel. The work of screwing a self-tapping screw into concrete looks like this:
- Drill a hole to the required depth in the wall. The diameter of the hole must match the diameter of the plastic plug.
- Next, remove the dust from the hole.
- After inserting a plastic cork into it.
- Finally, use a screwdriver or screwdriver to tighten the self-tapping screw.
If the walls are plastered, then you can try to tighten the self-tapping screw without making a hole. You will definitely succeed in doing this if the plaster is not too hard, especially if it is made on the basis of clay. This will require a wood screw with a rare pitch of turns.
So, we discussed with you the technology of how to properly screw a self-tapping screw into different materials. If you know of other methods, then be sure to write to us about it in the comments to this article.
Video
You can visually familiarize yourself with the method of screwing a self-tapping screw into metal from the video we proposed:
This video shows the original method of how to tighten a self-tapping screw without a tool:
This article is intended primarily for those who do not have knowledge in the field of construction and repair, but the situation has developed in such a way that everything has to be done by hand. Now we will talk about how to perform such a construction operation, how to tighten a self-tapping screw.
Of course, every man knows how to do this, but as mentioned above, someone has never encountered this at all, and this is primarily about women. We will try to tell as much as possible about how this is done in relation to various materials and we hope our story will help you in the future.
Self-tapping screws are a fairly common type of fastener. With their help, they fasten parts made of various materials: metal, wood, Chipboard etc. In everyday life, various shelves, hanging drawers are fixed to self-tapping screws, and of course they are twisted in hundreds during repairs. If we talk about furniture, then almost any cabinet or sofa has self-tapping screws, or they are often used to repair old furniture.
In our article, we will consider the topic of screwing self-tapping screws into walls made of brick, concrete and wall blocks for hanging boxes or shelves, as well as the features of screwing this fastener into various softer materials.
An example of tightening self-tapping screws for hanging a shelf on the wall
For this work, we need self-tapping screws, dowels, a pencil, a screwdriver, a hammer, a drill, a drill and a building level, tape measures or a metal meter.
To begin with, we determine the attachment points of the shelf or box. Having selected them, with the help of the building level we draw a line along the horizon. If this is not done, the box will hang crookedly and the load will be concentrated on one self-tapping screw. As a result, it may not withstand and jump out of the attachment point. Using a ruler, measure the distance between the points where the screws will be drilled. Mark the drilling points with a pencil.
If the wall consists of separate blocks and bricks, it is necessary to control as much as possible so that the points do not fall into the place of the seams or, even worse, at the junction of brick and mortar. In the first case, a self-tapping screw with a dowel will not hold so well, and in the second, during drilling, the drill will go to the side and the distance between the self-tapping screws screwed into the wall will change. As a result, the fasteners on the box or shelf will not fit in the places of the drilled self-tapping screws.
Next, proceed to drilling holes for self-tapping screws. Usually in everyday life, standard wood screws ranging in size from 3.5x40 to 4x60 mm are sufficient. They fit a large number plastic dowels 6 mm thick and various lengths. We choose the dowel the same length as the self-tapping screw, or a little longer. To drill the walls, we will use a standard 6 mm drill bit with a Pobedite tip. Set the drill to impact drilling mode and start drilling.
The drill should be positioned so that the drill is perpendicular to the surface. We make the hole depth approximately 5 mm more than the length of the dowel. Having finished drilling, we hammer the dowel into the resulting hole with a hammer. The end of the dowel after hammering should be flush with the surface of the wall.
After that, using a screwdriver, we twist the self-tapping screw inside the dowel. The screwdriver is selected depending on the head of the self-tapping screw: cross-shaped or flat. In the process of tightening, it is necessary to firmly press the screwdriver against the head of the screw. It is necessary to twist with a smooth effort in a clockwise direction. After turning the screw 90-180 degrees, the screwdriver is usually removed from the head and returned to its original position, the movement is repeated. Gradually the screw is twisted. Everything is easy and simple.
If you have such a tool as a screwdriver, then the process of screwing a self-tapping screw into a wall is generally a matter of a few seconds.
In conclusion, we note that if you are going to hang a shelf or cabinets on screwed screws, then you should not turn them completely into the wall. It is necessary that there is a distance of 4-7 mm between the screw head and the wall.
Features of screwing self-tapping screws into various materials
In this part of the article, we also want to talk about the features of screwing self-tapping screws, or their individual types, into such types of materials as plastic, wood, metal, etc. We think this information will not be superfluous, given that we have only talked about how to fix self-tapping screws in stone materials.
If a we are talking about such a durable material as metal, then there are some peculiarities. Depending on the thickness of the metal of the structure, the choice of the type of self-tapping screw depends primarily. If you have a structure made of professional pipes, then the wall thickness there can be from 1.5 to 3 mm, and if the self-tapping screw needs to be wrapped in a thin-walled chrome-plated tube, the wall thickness is generally from 0.5 mm.
How to tighten a self-tapping screw with a drill
In relatively thick metal, drills with a drill are usually selected. A classic example is roofing screws.
It is impossible to tighten a self-tapping screw with a drill using a screwdriver, more precisely, it is possible, but additional drilling will be required and the screwing speed will be one self-tapping screw in 5-10 minutes, which most likely will not suit you. If there is a screwdriver with the right nozzle, then such self-tapping screws are twisted very quickly.
In the process of tightening self-tapping screws with a drill, it is necessary to constantly ensure that the screwdriver constantly presses with the necessary force on the self-tapping screw and the drilling point. If you loosen the force, the self-tapping screw will fall out of the nozzle and you will lose time. Do not press on the screw and very hard. The longer the self-tapping screw, the easier it will fall sideways during drilling and twisting.
It is also important to maintain a constant rotation speed in the process of tightening self-tapping screws with a drill. If this is not done, the drill on the self-tapping screw will become dull faster than drilling a threaded hole.
Screwing a self-tapping screw into a thin metal pipe
A similar operation is required in cases where you need to rigidly connect a metal pipe to other parts.
First of all, it is necessary to drill holes in the pipe for self-tapping screws. To do this, having outlined the drilling points, we clamp the pipe in a vice and, having pinned the drilling point, we make a hole 1.5 - 2 mm in diameter smaller than the self-tapping screw. Punching is done so that the drill does not slip, because the surface of the pipe is curved and not even.
After that, we take a self-tapping screw and fasten the desired part to the pipe. For this, pointed self-tapping screws with frequent threads are used. The more often the thread, the better, because it is due to it that the mount will hold.
We twist the self-tapping screw slowly and carefully until the head rests against the surface of the part and you make sure that the part fits snugly against the pipe.
If you twist the self-tapping screw even half a turn, then the hole in the pipe will expand and the self-tapping screw will not hold. You can fix this only by replacing the self-tapping screw with a thicker one, which is not always possible, or by drilling new holes.
We twist the screw into the tree
If you need to drive a self-tapping screw into a softer material such as wood, plastic, fiberboard, etc., then pre-drilling with a drill is required. The hole must be slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw (the diameter is taken along the outer part of the thread), otherwise the screw will not hold in the material.
A self-tapping screw, twisting into a relatively soft material, partially bursts it to the sides, and if not drilled, the part can simply split or crack. This is especially important for small parts. Additionally, you position the self-tapping screw in this way at the desired point and it will definitely not go to the side.
If the position of the screw is not very important (for example, when finishing work), then it can be twisted immediately, the main thing is that it is not very long and with a rare thread. Long screw it can simply create such friction during twisting that it either stops turning until it is completely twisted, or breaks off altogether (usually it breaks either in the middle, or the screw head breaks off).
